Following!! Thank you for this info! I just got a 2018 bolt 2 days ago, loving it! But I got oh so many questions you may be able to help me out with!! Thank you for sharing your journey with this EV
You neglected to say that the level 1 can be adjusted from 8 amps to 12 amps. It's done on your car screen.. Level 2 plug can be installed for $400 if they can stay close to breaker box. Clipper Creek has the best level 2 charger cable on Anazon. $550
It's not worthing pointing out mainly because you go from 3 miles every hour, to 7 every hour. Might as well spend $200 and get the lectron I reviewed in another video
@@eddylauterback1312 sorry I'm not trying to be an expert 😂 just explaining the level 1 & 2 charging. And level 2 doesn't have to be installed near the breaker box. A 240v plug can be installed almost anywhere in the house or garage. As someone who drives 100 miles a day, it's not worth using at all.
Even better: You can adapt the 120v portable EVSE seen in this video to run at Level 2 (240v). It’s got a ClipperCreek Gen2 control board inside that is capable of both 120v or 240v operation. GM merely sells it with a different plug in 240v regions, which is why adapting it works. Heck, ClipperCreek themselves sell it in North America with a NEMA 14-30 (240v 30A common 4-prong dryer plug) but they rebrand that one “Amazing-E.” You can make a very simple adapter to plug it into 240v and it WILL work but, of course, you have to make sure no one plugs other 120v devices into the adapter which can’t tolerate 240v (many modern switching PSUs are 240v-compatible). You can also make an adapter to get 240v from two 120v outlets if they are on different phases (every other breaker in the box is on alternate phases). Heck, the workshop I’m in right now fried some of my work lights because the landlords had a standard NEMA 5-15 (120v 15A standard 3-prong polarized North American outlet) incorrectly wired for 240v. The unit seen in the video would’ve worked perfectly at Level 2 in that outlet, without an adapter, but I changed it to NEMA 6-20 (240v 20A 3-prong with horizontal blade) so no one else would make the same mistake. My LED work lights were obviously NOT 240v-tolerant and I hate to think what other things I could’ve fried if I had tried them first. When I built my own EVSE I used a $30 ClipperCreek Gen2 control board with a NEMA 6-20 plug but made NEMA 5-20, NEMA 5-15, and NEMA 14-XX adapters. The 14-XX plug came from Lowe’s where they sell it as a plug that can be assembled for either 14-30 (dryer) or 14-50 (garage EV/kitchen range), but I left the unused neutral prong out so it will fit both. As a consequence this also lets it fit NEMA 14-60 (welder) outlets but I’ve literally never seen one in the wild so that’s of little use. Being able to fit both 14-30 and 14-50 without the keyed neutral prong is the main advantage. With all the adapters built with parts from Lowe’s I’ll always be able to find a place to plug mine in. ;)
I was hoping this video would include any mention about the Target Charge Level feature; any guidance on keeping the max charge no higher than 80% would be much appreciated.
You make a great point! I personally did not get the software update to prevent you from charging more than 80% because I go on long distance trips and need that distance. But when I'm at home, I figure out the math of my charger. I get 16 miles of charge an hour. Figure out how many hours until I hit 80% from where I'm at. Then unplug when it's done. Or just get the software update and never have to worry. I don't like charging when I'm sleeping, for safety reasons lol
I just bought a 2022 Bolt from a Chevy dealer but no mention of $$ to help with the installation of the 240 outlet or charging station? How did you get the $1,000?
Hey, if you don't drive long distances, a level 1 charger (110 outlet) is just fine. Also, if you have an outlet at work (like my son), use that while at work. Lithium batteries may wear out faster at a higher charge rate. Also, charging to more than 85% can wear them out faster.
@@bcallahan08 ahhh makes sense. At the dealership I was like, now how do I connect the 240v to this plug, and he's like oh you gotta buy a different one. I was confused, but it's only for the EUV. Thank you
The EVSE internals are designed for both 110/120 vac and 208 through 240 vac use, but it's 110/120 vac plug is not. You can buy adapters yourself but using the adapters would probably invalidate any insurance compensation if something went wrong. Now you can buy the same portable EVSE with a factory 208, 220, 240 vac plug and then use adapters to feed it 110/120 vac power, that might be covered by insurance and likely would be much safer. If you are to use adapters to plug that 110/120 vac plug into a 208, 229 or 240 vac socket make sure that 110/120 vac plug is rated for at least 250 volts. Those 208, 220, 240 vac nema sockets you can gave installed at your home are actually rated for 600 volts.
I'm thinking of buying one . But I wonder if you charge with the level 1 charger . It may increase your electric bill ? I don't know though and I don't believe what Chevy says lol. Or any car manufacturer says about their mileage.
Using any level charger will increase your bill. Higher the level charger, the quicker the charge. Which also means more money on the electric bill quicker. But technically you'll use the same energy with any charger. You'll just have to charge longer with the level 1. Check out one of my UA-cam shorts that explains my electric bill and how much I drive!
@@GnarlyKnots my bill is already 700 a month and I drive about 80 miles round trip from my home to work and back home. Anymore money on the electric bill won't help me make my ends meet. As I'm posting this I got a ding on my phone Toyota has a 2022 Prius they said they will sell it to me at 98k right now on a special deal. That's too much .great video though
@@kennypowerz1267 yeah your bill would go up 50-80 bucks with that driving. Do whatever works best financially in your lifestyle. I was looking into the Toyota RAV4 hybrid before I purchased the bolt.
yeah I could see that being tricky... only thing you can do are use public charge stations, which sadly costs a little more money than if you charged at home. They have free charge stations, but those usually take a longer time to charge your car. Best of luck to ya
John, Welcome to owning an Electric Car.You make a common error that many newbies make. So I wanted to help educate you a little better. In your video you show the J1772 plug and said "This is the Charger". It is not the charger...You could say it is the charging cable or charging equipment or call it by it's official name the EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment). The charger is actually built into the car for 120VAC or 240VAC. The EVSE is a dedicated cable that allows you to connect the vehicle's charger to a 120V outlet. The EVSE has a relay that won't allow current to flow until the EVSE communicates with the vehicle and determines that you have properly connected it. Off topic but just a little bit more information. When you visit a DC fast charge station then the Charger is external. It is not in the car. The DC charger bypasses the car's internal AC charger, and charging is then handled by the DC Fast charge station.
Bah. I know this perfectly well having built my own EVSE but this is insufferably pedantic. Many EVSEs call themselves chargers. Heck, the new 2023 Bolt EV and Bolt EUV announcement PDFs call the available/included Chevrolet-branded Webasto EVSE a “dual-level charge cord.” No one says your iPhone’s lightning cable isn’t a charge cord just because the charge controller chip is embedded in the device or battery… and it’s not just because it’s already DC. For some reason, people feel compelled to distinguish further in the world of EVs.
Not trying to put you down. I started my EV journey in 2012 and have owned 6 plug in vehicles, none of which start with a “T” . In 2012 I didn’t know squat but have learned a lot. New owners purchasing in 2022 have to learn all that I have and as an old-timer so to speak I feel it necessary to educate. I have been educating from the start. I have been present at many EV ride and drive, show and tell events in the last 10 years. I’m just trying to pass on what I know. I’m glad you’re aware.
@@irawatson2006 I just don’t think that particular factoid is worth going out of the way to mention when the EVSEs themselves call themselves “chargers” and “charge cords.” ;) The technical distinguishment alone is not reason enough, especially since it can be argued against with a small shift in perspective and there is nothing that decides one perspective is more correct than the other. I don’t see a problem with using the intended purpose to label the cord, even if it’s just a fancy extension cord. The intended purpose of the EVSE is to charge your car… not to power it on the go or use it without batteries or anything. Though I avoid doing it myself I have no problem with calling it a charge cord, especially since the EVSE makers themselves do it. In that vein, I remember when wall warts were often called “battery eliminators” simply because they provided an alternative to battery power in your calculator, adding machine, Speak & Spell, or Pong machine. It didn’t matter if it was an AC adapter, DC adapter, or whatever. Heck, even a straight AC cord could be a “battery eliminator” if the battery-operated device could alternately use it. You might call an extension cord a “drop cord” based on your intended use. You might have one that you only use for powering a shop fan so you might call it the fan cord. One for the shop lights could be your lamp cord. In that same way, an EVSE can definitely be called a charge cord. Regardless of whether the DC conversion and charge controller is in the cord you use it pretty much exclusively for charging EVs. That makes it your charge cord.
Dude. At the risk of sounding like a nag, please listen carefully: You absolutely should not be plugged in to the outlet that way. Many 120v outlets melt with the constant amps drawn by the car. GM mitigates two ways… 1) by defaulting to only 8 amps with 120v while requiring the user to override to 12 amps if they know the outlet can handle it 2) by having a thermal probe in the wall plug that will lower the amperage or turn it off if the outlet starts to overheat Even if nothing else is turned on at the same times, sharing your outlet with those adapters is spacing your plug’s thermal probe away from the outlet. It will be unable to tell when the outlet is getting hot and can very easily melt and cause a fire. Don’t assume it is rare and can’t happen. Melting the outlet is very common at 12 amps even though a standard outlet is typically rated for 15 to 20 amps. I literally melted a garage outlet with the exact same unit, DESPITE the thermal probe. 12 amps from a 240v outlet wouldn’t be as much of a concern because higher voltages can move more amps with thinner wires and less heat. This is precisely why the car only defaults to 8 amps with the 120v EVSE. At 120v it is a VERY REAL concern that I have personally witnessed. Also, I found a very old Chevrolet Volt instructional video where GM says to only use a GFCI outlet. That means you can’t just use “any” normal outlet. Heck, many electrical codes now require a GFCI breaker for a 240v EVSE outlet. Your 120v outlet has to be GFCI with the Test/Reset buttons or you can use a non-GFCI outlet through a GFCI breaker. You could use a secondary outlet which runs through another that is GFCI but it should not have anything else on the circuit since you will be drawing near the limit for continuous amps. PLEASE don’t plug in like that anymore. As someone who lost a car to a direct lightning strike that melted the wiring in the walls (2019), then melted an outlet at 12 amps charging a Chevy Volt with the exact same portable unit (2020), then ultimately lost the home to an EF4 tornado (2021): You are quite literally playing with fire. I know what it feels like to lose a home and besides the tornado where it finally happened I came very close to it two other times. I’m literally living in a workshop where I type this right now and it’s the only place I have to charge my brother’s car (mine was crushed in the same tornado). You can’t prevent a tornado but you can prevent an electrical fire. BE SAFE!
@@GnarlyKnots LOL! Glad you’ve upgraded but I was responding to what was said early in the video and what I saw around 1 minute. Got here after searching for “Bolt EV 2022” to familiarize myself with my twin brother’s new car. ;) Thanks for the update! Subscribing.
Sounds absolutely horrible 😂😂😂 you midaswell get a horse and buggy like the Amish dude. They will get further than you in a day. Plus you can’t charge it at a hotel or camping 🤣🤣🤣 “progression” I think they call this. Lmao
I have the 2023 bolt. I am loving it. didn't think I would like it so much.
I've had mine for almost 3 years now and I still love everything about it
Following!! Thank you for this info! I just got a 2018 bolt 2 days ago, loving it! But I got oh so many questions you may be able to help me out with!! Thank you for sharing your journey with this EV
Ask as many questions as you'd like, I've been driving mine for 3 years now and still love it
You neglected to say that the level 1 can be adjusted from 8 amps to 12 amps. It's done on your car screen.. Level 2 plug can be installed for $400 if they can stay close to breaker box. Clipper Creek has the best level 2 charger cable on Anazon. $550
It's not worthing pointing out mainly because you go from 3 miles every hour, to 7 every hour. Might as well spend $200 and get the lectron I reviewed in another video
It's worth replying. A person who is charging all weekend on level 1 will see a big difference. Sorry but if you want to be the expert, be the expert!
@@eddylauterback1312 sorry I'm not trying to be an expert 😂 just explaining the level 1 & 2 charging. And level 2 doesn't have to be installed near the breaker box. A 240v plug can be installed almost anywhere in the house or garage. As someone who drives 100 miles a day, it's not worth using at all.
Even better: You can adapt the 120v portable EVSE seen in this video to run at Level 2 (240v).
It’s got a ClipperCreek Gen2 control board inside that is capable of both 120v or 240v operation. GM merely sells it with a different plug in 240v regions, which is why adapting it works. Heck, ClipperCreek themselves sell it in North America with a NEMA 14-30 (240v 30A common 4-prong dryer plug) but they rebrand that one “Amazing-E.”
You can make a very simple adapter to plug it into 240v and it WILL work but, of course, you have to make sure no one plugs other 120v devices into the adapter which can’t tolerate 240v (many modern switching PSUs are 240v-compatible). You can also make an adapter to get 240v from two 120v outlets if they are on different phases (every other breaker in the box is on alternate phases).
Heck, the workshop I’m in right now fried some of my work lights because the landlords had a standard NEMA 5-15 (120v 15A standard 3-prong polarized North American outlet) incorrectly wired for 240v. The unit seen in the video would’ve worked perfectly at Level 2 in that outlet, without an adapter, but I changed it to NEMA 6-20 (240v 20A 3-prong with horizontal blade) so no one else would make the same mistake. My LED work lights were obviously NOT 240v-tolerant and I hate to think what other things I could’ve fried if I had tried them first.
When I built my own EVSE I used a $30 ClipperCreek Gen2 control board with a NEMA 6-20 plug but made NEMA 5-20, NEMA 5-15, and NEMA 14-XX adapters. The 14-XX plug came from Lowe’s where they sell it as a plug that can be assembled for either 14-30 (dryer) or 14-50 (garage EV/kitchen range), but I left the unused neutral prong out so it will fit both. As a consequence this also lets it fit NEMA 14-60 (welder) outlets but I’ve literally never seen one in the wild so that’s of little use. Being able to fit both 14-30 and 14-50 without the keyed neutral prong is the main advantage. With all the adapters built with parts from Lowe’s I’ll always be able to find a place to plug mine in. ;)
What I would do is just put a generator on a hitch platform. Problem solved
Where did you get that extension chord that you plugged your car into the wall with? I have a rental bolt with no chord.
2:29
Amazon. Just had to make sure it was the same 240v outlet as the one I have in my house
Great video. I'd love to see more of the Bolt
I was hoping this video would include any mention about the Target Charge Level feature; any guidance on keeping the max charge no higher than 80% would be much appreciated.
You make a great point! I personally did not get the software update to prevent you from charging more than 80% because I go on long distance trips and need that distance. But when I'm at home, I figure out the math of my charger. I get 16 miles of charge an hour. Figure out how many hours until I hit 80% from where I'm at. Then unplug when it's done. Or just get the software update and never have to worry. I don't like charging when I'm sleeping, for safety reasons lol
I like the energy option that let you pump up the Amp from 8 to 12
Yeah that's nice for sure
I just bought a 2022 Bolt from a Chevy dealer but no mention of $$ to help with the installation of the 240 outlet or charging station? How did you get the $1,000?
It was something they were offering when you bought the car new when it first came out
Ok. Makes sense. I bought mine used. Appreciate the quick reply.
Hey, if you don't drive long distances, a level 1 charger (110 outlet) is just fine. Also, if you have an outlet at work (like my son), use that while at work. Lithium batteries may wear out faster at a higher charge rate. Also, charging to more than 85% can wear them out faster.
Amazon sells level 2 chargers cheaper than $600 by far.
Yeah mine was 170
I thought the evse that comes with the 2022 Chevy Bolt comes with interchangeable plugs to allow for either 120v or 240v connections?
It does! I just don't have that separate part. They charge you for that of course 😂
That comes standard only with the EUV
@@bcallahan08 ahhh makes sense. At the dealership I was like, now how do I connect the 240v to this plug, and he's like oh you gotta buy a different one. I was confused, but it's only for the EUV. Thank you
The EVSE internals are designed for both 110/120 vac and 208 through 240 vac use, but it's 110/120 vac plug is not. You can buy adapters yourself but using the adapters would probably invalidate any insurance compensation if something went wrong. Now you can buy the same portable EVSE with a factory 208, 220, 240 vac plug and then use adapters to feed it 110/120 vac power, that might be covered by insurance and likely would be much safer. If you are to use adapters to plug that 110/120 vac plug into a 208, 229 or 240 vac socket make sure that 110/120 vac plug is rated for at least 250 volts. Those 208, 220, 240 vac nema sockets you can gave installed at your home are actually rated for 600 volts.
The granny cable isn't meant for every day use.
I'm thinking of buying one . But I wonder if you charge with the level 1 charger . It may increase your electric bill ? I don't know though and I don't believe what Chevy says lol. Or any car manufacturer says about their mileage.
Using any level charger will increase your bill. Higher the level charger, the quicker the charge. Which also means more money on the electric bill quicker. But technically you'll use the same energy with any charger. You'll just have to charge longer with the level 1. Check out one of my UA-cam shorts that explains my electric bill and how much I drive!
@@GnarlyKnots my bill is already 700 a month and I drive about 80 miles round trip from my home to work and back home. Anymore money on the electric bill won't help me make my ends meet. As I'm posting this I got a ding on my phone Toyota has a 2022 Prius they said they will sell it to me at 98k right now on a special deal. That's too much .great video though
@@kennypowerz1267 yeah your bill would go up 50-80 bucks with that driving. Do whatever works best financially in your lifestyle. I was looking into the Toyota RAV4 hybrid before I purchased the bolt.
What sucks is I don't live in a house I'm in an apartment there are chargers close by but this might be tricky I keep going back and forth
yeah I could see that being tricky... only thing you can do are use public charge stations, which sadly costs a little more money than if you charged at home. They have free charge stations, but those usually take a longer time to charge your car. Best of luck to ya
@@GnarlyKnots exactly there are a few by my but I'd have to leave it for hours unless I just sleep in it while it's charging
@@GnarlyKnots I've read that the bolt is a little slow with level 3 public chargers how true is that
@@goblue7516 usually takes half an hour to get to 80 percent full
@@GnarlyKnots wow ok then that's awesome
How long it can charge the car how many minutes or hours
With my level 2 charger, every hour of charge gets me about 15-20 miles
I wonder how that works in Europe where the standard home plug is already 240v.
Probably a lot easier than in America lol
Cant use the same wire in Europe or US. House wiring for outlets is 14 or 12 gauge. You will need 8 gauge for level 2 charging
Thank you
How much more you are paying on home electric bill?...
30 bucks extra a month for how much I drive
@@GnarlyKnots thank you..
“3/4 of the tank…” 🧐🧐🧐
John, Welcome to owning an Electric Car.You make a common error that many newbies make. So I wanted to help educate you a little better. In your video you show the J1772 plug and said "This is the Charger". It is not the charger...You could say it is the charging cable or charging equipment or call it by it's official name the EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment). The charger is actually built into the car for 120VAC or 240VAC. The EVSE is a dedicated cable that allows you to connect the vehicle's charger to a 120V outlet. The EVSE has a relay that won't allow current to flow until the EVSE communicates with the vehicle and determines that you have properly connected it. Off topic but just a little bit more information. When you visit a DC fast charge station then the Charger is external. It is not in the car. The DC charger bypasses the car's internal AC charger, and charging is then handled by the DC Fast charge station.
Lol thanks for the information. I knew it's not a "charger" it's just hard not to say 😂 and thanks I love being an electric car owner!
It's a glorified extension cable. All it does is deliver the AC power to the car.
Bah. I know this perfectly well having built my own EVSE but this is insufferably pedantic. Many EVSEs call themselves chargers. Heck, the new 2023 Bolt EV and Bolt EUV announcement PDFs call the available/included Chevrolet-branded Webasto EVSE a “dual-level charge cord.”
No one says your iPhone’s lightning cable isn’t a charge cord just because the charge controller chip is embedded in the device or battery… and it’s not just because it’s already DC. For some reason, people feel compelled to distinguish further in the world of EVs.
Not trying to put you down. I started my EV journey in 2012 and have owned 6 plug in vehicles, none of which start with a “T” . In 2012 I didn’t know squat but have learned a lot. New owners purchasing in 2022 have to learn all that I have and as an old-timer so to speak I feel it necessary to educate. I have been educating from the start. I have been present at many EV ride and drive, show and tell events in the last 10 years. I’m just trying to pass on what I know. I’m glad you’re aware.
@@irawatson2006
I just don’t think that particular factoid is worth going out of the way to mention when the EVSEs themselves call themselves “chargers” and “charge cords.” ;) The technical distinguishment alone is not reason enough, especially since it can be argued against with a small shift in perspective and there is nothing that decides one perspective is more correct than the other.
I don’t see a problem with using the intended purpose to label the cord, even if it’s just a fancy extension cord. The intended purpose of the EVSE is to charge your car… not to power it on the go or use it without batteries or anything. Though I avoid doing it myself I have no problem with calling it a charge cord, especially since the EVSE makers themselves do it.
In that vein, I remember when wall warts were often called “battery eliminators” simply because they provided an alternative to battery power in your calculator, adding machine, Speak & Spell, or Pong machine. It didn’t matter if it was an AC adapter, DC adapter, or whatever. Heck, even a straight AC cord could be a “battery eliminator” if the battery-operated device could alternately use it.
You might call an extension cord a “drop cord” based on your intended use. You might have one that you only use for powering a shop fan so you might call it the fan cord. One for the shop lights could be your lamp cord. In that same way, an EVSE can definitely be called a charge cord. Regardless of whether the DC conversion and charge controller is in the cord you use it pretty much exclusively for charging EVs. That makes it your charge cord.
I think I'd carry a 2000 watt gas inverter in the trunk. For emergencies.
Until the ev charging infrastructure is complete, that might not be a bad idea 😂
So keep $500 in junk in the garage and leave a $35K car outside. 😆
Hey don't judge 😂 with the recall I charge it outside just in case of a fire
Pro tip: Park your $40,000 car in the garage and leave your junk outside to rust. You're doing it the other way around.
Nahhhh
😅
Dude. At the risk of sounding like a nag, please listen carefully:
You absolutely should not be plugged in to the outlet that way. Many 120v outlets melt with the constant amps drawn by the car. GM mitigates two ways…
1) by defaulting to only 8 amps with 120v while requiring the user to override to 12 amps if they know the outlet can handle it
2) by having a thermal probe in the wall plug that will lower the amperage or turn it off if the outlet starts to overheat
Even if nothing else is turned on at the same times, sharing your outlet with those adapters is spacing your plug’s thermal probe away from the outlet. It will be unable to tell when the outlet is getting hot and can very easily melt and cause a fire.
Don’t assume it is rare and can’t happen. Melting the outlet is very common at 12 amps even though a standard outlet is typically rated for 15 to 20 amps. I literally melted a garage outlet with the exact same unit, DESPITE the thermal probe.
12 amps from a 240v outlet wouldn’t be as much of a concern because higher voltages can move more amps with thinner wires and less heat. This is precisely why the car only defaults to 8 amps with the 120v EVSE. At 120v it is a VERY REAL concern that I have personally witnessed.
Also, I found a very old Chevrolet Volt instructional video where GM says to only use a GFCI outlet. That means you can’t just use “any” normal outlet. Heck, many electrical codes now require a GFCI breaker for a 240v EVSE outlet.
Your 120v outlet has to be GFCI with the Test/Reset buttons or you can use a non-GFCI outlet through a GFCI breaker. You could use a secondary outlet which runs through another that is GFCI but it should not have anything else on the circuit since you will be drawing near the limit for continuous amps.
PLEASE don’t plug in like that anymore. As someone who lost a car to a direct lightning strike that melted the wiring in the walls (2019), then melted an outlet at 12 amps charging a Chevy Volt with the exact same portable unit (2020), then ultimately lost the home to an EF4 tornado (2021): You are quite literally playing with fire. I know what it feels like to lose a home and besides the tornado where it finally happened I came very close to it two other times. I’m literally living in a workshop where I type this right now and it’s the only place I have to charge my brother’s car (mine was crushed in the same tornado). You can’t prevent a tornado but you can prevent an electrical fire. BE SAFE!
Definitely nagging. I use a 240v outlet so no worries. Actually watch my videos and listen and you'll see how I charge my car.
@@GnarlyKnots LOL! Glad you’ve upgraded but I was responding to what was said early in the video and what I saw around 1 minute. Got here after searching for “Bolt EV 2022” to familiarize myself with my twin brother’s new car. ;) Thanks for the update! Subscribing.
@@emmettturner9452 I know I'm just giving you a hard time 😂 appreciate all the information I can get, thanks again ❤️
Clean your garage 😢
Zero help for me
You shouldn’t have to buy anything to get your car to charge faster. Jeez what a scam…
I do agree with that statement lol even phones nowadays only come with the cord and you gotta buy the power block
You shouldn’t have to buy gas to get you car to run, jeez what a scam.
Sounds absolutely horrible 😂😂😂 you midaswell get a horse and buggy like the Amish dude. They will get further than you in a day. Plus you can’t charge it at a hotel or camping 🤣🤣🤣 “progression” I think they call this. Lmao
I charge at hotels and camp grounds all the time. No need for as many chargers as gas stations when you charge at your house.