Hello I have a question for you, my pool will only fire up when I jump the valve open with just a tap of a jumper wire. What could be wrong? All sensors are recently new and I changed out the thermocouple, do you think the thermocouple is bad again?
My pilot stays lit, but my burners won’t come on. Can you explain with a video or pictures how to see if my valve is bad. A repair guy said it was sticking, but he was able to free it up a bit (it worked after he left), but here 3 weeks later the burners won’t come on now. He’s now texting me how to trouble shoot, but I’m not incredibly electrical savvy without video instruction. I have a Hayward H250 natural gas heater.
Another great informative video. Thanks for helping us all, its a great feeling when you can fix something yourself instead of throwing it away or calling a service guy and getting gouged. Thanks again !!
Hi, I have a Hayward Pool Heater.. When I turn off my water heater while the pool heater is running, the out temperature of the heat pump keeps running and the display shows that the water temperature (ou) is increasing until it reaches 40C then the heat pump trips the breaker in my panel box. Does this mean the Pressure Switch is defective? In the past the heat pump would turn off and give me the E03 error when the water pump would be off while the heat pump was running. It no longer does this. My pool heat pump is only 3 years. Does this mean I have a faulty pressure switch?
thx for the very informative videos. I have an issue with my h250 in that the unit doesnt shut itself off after setting a temperature. If i dont manually turn off the unit with the switch the unit will keep heating up the water.when rotating the temp knob i can get the heater to fire up/shut off as i reach the point that the switch engages/disengages as per this video but no matter what temp i set the dial to after the unit fires up, it wont shut itself down on its own. Is there a way to test the temperature sensor (metal wire) that you note in this video? tia!
I have a H100iD1 that stopped heating. I clamped the door switch and traced through the schematic and I get 110 through all the limit switches etc to the control board. I put a LED & series resistor across the 24v relay coil and a 110v neon indicator across the neutral and relay output (basically across the gas valve coil). The fan comes on and after about 10 seconds, I see the led rapidly blinking (so not solid on), and the neon does about the same. The neon had about 5 volts (with a DVM). After about 5 seconds the LED and neon (relay and gas valve) come on solid for about 1 second and I read about 50vAC on the gas valve then they turn off. I removed the igniter and attached it to the screw for the cover so it's grounded, and I could see sparks across the electrodes. I had also put a switch across the N.O. relay contacts so I could manually run the gas valve, and I can smell gas when operating it, so that works. I thought the relay may be bad, so replaced it, but still not working. I stuck a BBQ lighter in the igniter hole and energized the gas valve, and lite the lighter, and.... got quite a flashback. I guess that's why your not supposed to do that !!! but I found the gas is getting through.. I cleaned up the electrodes and mounting plate of the igniter and area around where it mounts on the heater, but still not getting the flame to stay on. I tried widening the electrodes and I get more spark but still not firing up. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks.
hi great videos, ive seen a lot of videos. your very to the point. wish other videos would take notes. I have a millivolt heater just purchased new on/off switch,circuit board,rheostat,worked great after install a few days, pilot works -no problem.wont turn burners on now.question 1- if I jump th th/pp gas valve connections -it turns off my pilot, question 2- my pressure switch does not have that little switch on top-it seems to be I unit. I have jumped all the safetys but still no fire. ? help thank you..
Robin Baronsky Thanks! I find I go off talking a lot but I do try to cover every detail as much as possible. If you have a circuit board of any kind you probably have an electric unit (uses external power supply) The knob for the temp control is usually not a rheostat/potentiometer but a dial that moves the trigger closer or farther from the switch as the thermostat part causes it to move closer or farther from the part to be depressed. What model unit o you have? Pilot should only be going out if you remove the terminals from the thermocouple lead
My 1st unit has the small switch off the pressure switch. Nice to compare apples to apples. My 2nd unit is a 1 pc pressure valve and has continuity when pump off.
My Hayward H150 heater comes on but after 20-30 minutes shuts off and looks like the limit switch was triggered and stopped the heater. I replaced the wiring and limit switches...any idea on what is going on? Seems the heater is overheating causing it to shut down...
question, i bought a used hayward H100iD1 pool heater, the person i got it from was using it with propane, d i need a special kit to convert it to natural gas?
Yes basically you need what are called the orifices, which screw in to the burner assembly. The are the small valves the gas shoots out of. And of course the gas regulator supplying gas to the unit
There is a gas regulator on there now, it is a "Type R652-DFF", im assuming that is a propane regulator. Will a natural gas regulator be different and if yes do you know of one model number you can share so i can buy one if i need to
Yes LP and NG pressure are different. If it was originally set up as LP the regulator will be for LP If you have natural gas supplied in your neighborhood then it will already be regulated at the meter. You will have to correctly size the pipe as per the BTU rating of the unit. If you have a large tank that is refilled then you will need a regulator on the tank. A word of caution though, if you do not know what you are doing be sure to have a licenced gas fitter plumber come out there and hook it up for you, gas is a hell of a thing and a lot can go wrong very quickly.
Frank Lopes I have not been able to find find them, like I said they only really come with the whole thermostat assembly, as it is not supposed to be a serviceable part. you would have to track down a part number somehow
Frank Lopes You wont get it from Hayward that's for sure, you would have to track it down through Eaton or who ever makes the actual thermostat assembly. The thermostat assembly is not a proprietary Hayward part, it's made by another company and used across different brands.
Video Québec Yes, I think it is made by Eaton Mears. I have contacted an Eaton Mears dealer but they can't get cross references between Eaton Mears and Hayward branded parts. It's part of Hayward's way of keeping their prices high. No doubt they have an agreement with Eaton Mears to keep that information confidential. But, it appears that Eaton Mears does not sell the switches as a stand alone part anyways. The only way to see if a certain Eaton Mears thermostat (lower priced) is the same as the Hayward one would be to bring the old one into a shop and physically compare the two.
I guess if you REALLY wanted to track it down you could just go right to the manufacture or assembly plant and pick up a few, then sell the rest on ebay and make a buck
I actually did the short circuit..It didnt work..but when I removed the short circuit and turned on again..AMAZINGLY WORKED..Thanks so much :)
Hello I have a question for you, my pool will only fire up when I jump the valve open with just a tap of a jumper wire. What could be wrong? All sensors are recently new and I changed out the thermocouple, do you think the thermocouple is bad again?
My pilot stays lit, but my burners won’t come on. Can you explain with a video or pictures how to see if my valve is bad. A repair guy said it was sticking, but he was able to free it up a bit (it worked after he left), but here 3 weeks later the burners won’t come on now. He’s now texting me how to trouble shoot, but I’m not incredibly electrical savvy without video instruction. I have a Hayward H250 natural gas heater.
Wqtcg my other video
Another great informative video. Thanks for helping us all, its a great feeling when you can fix something yourself instead of throwing it away or calling a service guy and getting gouged. Thanks again !!
Hi, I have a Hayward Pool Heater.. When I turn off my water heater while the pool heater is running, the out temperature of the heat pump keeps running and the display shows that the water temperature (ou) is increasing until it reaches 40C then the heat pump trips the breaker in my panel box. Does this mean the Pressure Switch is defective? In the past the heat pump would turn off and give me the E03 error when the water pump would be off while the heat pump was running. It no longer does this. My pool heat pump is only 3 years. Does this mean I have a faulty pressure switch?
thx for the very informative videos. I have an issue with my h250 in that the unit doesnt shut itself off after setting a temperature. If i dont manually turn off the unit with the switch the unit will keep heating up the water.when rotating the temp knob i can get the heater to fire up/shut off as i reach the point that the switch engages/disengages as per this video but no matter what temp i set the dial to after the unit fires up, it wont shut itself down on its own. Is there a way to test the temperature sensor (metal wire) that you note in this video?
tia!
I have a H100iD1 that stopped heating. I clamped the door switch and traced through the schematic and I get 110 through all the limit switches etc to the control board. I put a LED & series resistor across the 24v relay coil and a 110v neon indicator across the neutral and relay output (basically across the gas valve coil). The fan comes on and after about 10 seconds, I see the led rapidly blinking (so not solid on), and the neon does about the same. The neon had about 5 volts (with a DVM). After about 5 seconds the LED and neon (relay and gas valve) come on solid for about 1 second and I read about 50vAC on the gas valve then they turn off. I removed the igniter and attached it to the screw for the cover so it's grounded, and I could see sparks across the electrodes. I had also put a switch across the N.O. relay contacts so I could manually run the gas valve, and I can smell gas when operating it, so that works. I thought the relay may be bad, so replaced it, but still not working. I stuck a BBQ lighter in the igniter hole and energized the gas valve, and lite the lighter, and.... got quite a flashback. I guess that's why your not supposed to do that !!! but I found the gas is getting through.. I cleaned up the electrodes and mounting plate of the igniter and area around where it mounts on the heater, but still not getting the flame to stay on. I tried widening the electrodes and I get more spark but still not firing up. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks.
Hmm that is very strange I do not have any experience with those heaters so i cannot say.
However it can be a problem in the control circuit
hi great videos, ive seen a lot of videos. your very to the point. wish other videos would take notes. I have a millivolt heater just purchased new on/off switch,circuit board,rheostat,worked great after install a few days, pilot works -no problem.wont turn burners on now.question 1- if I jump th th/pp gas valve connections -it turns off my pilot, question 2- my pressure switch does not have that little switch on top-it seems to be I unit. I have jumped all the safetys but still no fire. ? help thank you..
Robin Baronsky Thanks! I find I go off talking a lot but I do try to cover every detail as much as possible.
If you have a circuit board of any kind you probably have an electric unit (uses external power supply)
The knob for the temp control is usually not a rheostat/potentiometer but a dial that moves the trigger closer or farther from the switch as the thermostat part causes it to move closer or farther from the part to be depressed.
What model unit o you have? Pilot should only be going out if you remove the terminals from the thermocouple lead
Lite 2 model, jumped 2 terminals and burners go on the gas valve. Il jump each safety,and ck for contiuity
Thanks for replying.
My 1st unit has the small switch off the pressure switch. Nice to compare apples to apples. My 2nd unit is a 1 pc pressure valve and has continuity when pump off.
Robin Baronsky I am not familiar with that model, if you have an external power supply of any kind then you do not have a milivolt system.
Do you know where is electric power for h 400?
My Hayward H150 heater comes on but after 20-30 minutes shuts off and looks like the limit switch was triggered and stopped the heater. I replaced the wiring and limit switches...any idea on what is going on? Seems the heater is overheating causing it to shut down...
Could be the thermopile is wearing out, or a problem with the gas manifold
question, i bought a used hayward H100iD1 pool heater, the person i got it from was using it with propane, d i need a special kit to convert it to natural gas?
Yes basically you need what are called the orifices, which screw in to the burner assembly. The are the small valves the gas shoots out of. And of course the gas regulator supplying gas to the unit
There is a gas regulator on there now, it is a "Type R652-DFF", im assuming that is a propane regulator. Will a natural gas regulator be different and if yes do you know of one model number you can share so i can buy one if i need to
Yes LP and NG pressure are different. If it was originally set up as LP the regulator will be for LP
If you have natural gas supplied in your neighborhood then it will already be regulated at the meter. You will have to correctly size the pipe as per the BTU rating of the unit.
If you have a large tank that is refilled then you will need a regulator on the tank.
A word of caution though, if you do not know what you are doing be sure to have a licenced gas fitter plumber come out there and hook it up for you, gas is a hell of a thing and a lot can go wrong very quickly.
Videos from Québec thank you very much... great info
Where can you buy the thermostat switch component? Did you ever figure out the serial number of the component?
I meant the Eaton thermostat switch.
Frank Lopes I have not been able to find find them, like I said they only really come with the whole thermostat assembly, as it is not supposed to be a serviceable part. you would have to track down a part number somehow
Yes, I've tried, good luck with that. Hayward really protects its huge 1000% + mark-ups!
Frank Lopes You wont get it from Hayward that's for sure, you would have to track it down through Eaton or who ever makes the actual thermostat assembly.
The thermostat assembly is not a proprietary Hayward part, it's made by another company and used across different brands.
Video Québec Yes, I think it is made by Eaton Mears. I have contacted an Eaton Mears dealer but they can't get cross references between Eaton Mears and Hayward branded parts. It's part of Hayward's way of keeping their prices high. No doubt they have an agreement with Eaton Mears to keep that information confidential. But, it appears that Eaton Mears does not sell the switches as a stand alone part anyways. The only way to see if a certain Eaton Mears thermostat (lower priced) is the same as the Hayward one would be to bring the old one into a shop and physically compare the two.
I guess if you REALLY wanted to track it down you could just go right to the manufacture or assembly plant and pick up a few, then sell the rest on ebay and make a buck
I need one of those switches. Where can I buy one?