Thank you for watching! I'd be happy to answer any questions you have, not covered in the video. Here are a few videos I think would really help you further in shooting in low light: How to hold your camera: ua-cam.com/video/aLdnSp971nA/v-deo.html Event Photography: How to Use Flash and Make it Look Natural!: ua-cam.com/video/aSl2X2TaTw4/v-deo.html Event Photography: How to Move, Navigate Crowds, and More!: ua-cam.com/video/aHDz9a0G9m4/v-deo.html And of course if you want to support this channel and the content I put out there, please consider becoming a Patron: www.patreon.com/mikmilman
Though as an experienced photographer, and knowing this subject well, I enjoyed watching this vid all the way through. No matter my experience, I’m a believer that there’s always something new to learn. You’re very good at presenting educational material in a clear and understandable manner. Thanks for sharing your experience. -Dave-
I didn’t realize how little I knew about flash photography until all this valuable information. I DO realize how big God’s Grace is now as I have done multiple weddings in low light situations (totally wrong) and images were difficult to edit but mostly all sharp. I’ve got three big fancy weddings this year along with a few more smaller ones and you’re going to help me up my game tremendously!
While I do agree that they generally suck, one of my favorite lenses is my 55-250mm f/4-5.6. I hardly ever shoot at apertures like 1.4 and I never ever shoot 1.2 so that doesn't come into play at all. I just know that if I need f/5.6 or smaller, I can use this lens and the aperture won't change on me when I zoom in or out. And the lens is pretty crisp and sharp, especially for a Variable Aperture lens. Having said that, all my other lenses are fast Primes lol. I enjoy your teaching style and how clear you are. Keep doing your thing :)
Ah man Mik, you are blessed to be able to squat while taking photos. I can no longer do such a thing; I'd have to call EMS to help me stand again. I'm jealous. Lol. Hey, thank you for the video.
Really have enjoyed your channel. I keep coming back to reference your videos. One thing I haven’t seen you talk about is the new focusing modes of mirrorless. I have the R5 and I’m still playing with face/eye with servo, one shot etc. I would love to know how you utilize these. Thanks.
Great video man :) Yes - the variable aperture lenses suck, I can’t use them too! Are you recording your audio straight into the camera or into a seperate device? It’s super clear :)
I am not afraid of high ISO anymore. Modern sensors and modern software have changed the game. ISO 10,000 is not uncommon for interior shots if you also need some depth of field and shoot at f/4 of if you are using a budget lens with a slow aperture. I used an old 7D for outside shots last weekend in good light because it has a huge optical viewfinder that let’s me see everything and a joystick to move the focus point. Sun glare makes my mirrorless cameras so hard to use. I made the mistake of using the 7D for some unanticipated interior shots (stupid to reflexively use the camera in my hand instead if the one in my bag that would get the job done properly. But advanced noise reduction software produced an acceptable result, at least for social media purposes.
Great video. Amateur photographer here just getting into it as a hobby/possible side hustle. My passion is landscape and night photography. Been using the ol cellphone light trick for a little bit, works decent for me. I do say that I recently started acquiring vintage lenses and like the look of them for my style. Let me know if you want to sell any of yours since they’re in the closet of shame lol.
@@MikMilman I set the iso for the ambient light like you said. But I aslo had it in auto as the cats can move around a lot.. And when the flash fired the iso dropped.. Worked a treat..
I’m struggling to shoot at faster shutter speed in a dark environment, black walls , black ceiling…so bouncing light is not an option, i feel like if I decrease shutter speed, i won’t be able to freeze motion, how can I use flash without my images looking too washed out?
I’m had the change to shoot concerts though I’m afraid to because i still shoot on a crop sensor (nikon d5000) pretty old body and even though I’ve a 70 200 f2.8 I don’t think i can get good exposured photos at a concert .could you do a video on this please would truly appreciate it
@@MikMilman how to shoot concerts with a crop sensor What equipment to take for shooting a concert Your personal favorite go to concert equipment Best way to brand your concert content (watermark or unique color grade) Best position to be at while shooting concerts (in the crowds ,pit or stage)
I often shoot musical groups in low light situations where flash is not a viable option. For me, the "game changer" has been noise reduction software--I use Topaz deNoise. I typically apply deNoise on a separate layer in Photoshop and then reduce that layer to roughly 80 percent to keep the smoothing effect from looking like plastic. I may also brush in that percentage at different levels in different parts of the image.
Hey there! If I may jump in, I've shot music on crop sensor bodies for about 10 years now, and it's absolutely doable. In fact, your gear is significantly better than what I started with. What matters most in shooting music is honestly not the gear; it's your ability to listen to the music that is being played and use it to anticipate the actions of the musicians / performers onstage. If you can successfully predict their actions and movements, you will have a much easier go of it trying to time your shots to the apex of their movements. Additionally, aiming for that apex of a movement is very helpful in both reducing motion blur and in allowing you to shoot at much slower shutter speeds than you would need if you were trying to capture them mid-movement.
I recently shot a Dj party with eos r and used flash 1/16th manual , iso 1600 and f2.8 looked great on camera All the images looks grainy and not sharp What am I missing to get really sharp ? Is it flash power less or lens What would be your setting in this situation ? Really appreciated and subscribed
There are cases in which that setup would be fine, but in the vast majority of situations it would not be. If you have no already, I would watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/8ayloPxXBQs/v-deo.html In it, I demonstrate and explain why shooting your flash in manual is not a practical solution for the vast majority of events. Then I would watch this one: ua-cam.com/video/EIwYnHqhNfA/v-deo.html This will explain why you may still get inconsistent results, how to correct for them, and essentially how to take control over your flash output while shooting in TTL. I can not give you a definitive answer to your question, but here are the things to consider that may help you figure it out: -ISO 1600 should look fine with the EOS R-not overly grainy. -f2.8 will result in pretty shallow DOF, but so long as you nail your focus your subject should be sharp -it may be that you were missing your focus -check that nothing is wrong with your setup by experimenting with a lot of light.
@@MikMilman really appreciated I will watch then now Yes you are right I might have missed focus on subject . What would be setting for focus to get it right in this situation ? It is very much appreciated and thank you for your quick responses ❤️❤️
Filming at such a shallow depth of field at an angle like this can be a little distracting.. Close down the aperture a little bit for a talking head like this..
Thank you for watching! I'd be happy to answer any questions you have, not covered in the video. Here are a few videos I think would really help you further in shooting in low light:
How to hold your camera:
ua-cam.com/video/aLdnSp971nA/v-deo.html
Event Photography: How to Use Flash and Make it Look Natural!:
ua-cam.com/video/aSl2X2TaTw4/v-deo.html
Event Photography: How to Move, Navigate Crowds, and More!:
ua-cam.com/video/aHDz9a0G9m4/v-deo.html
And of course if you want to support this channel and the content I put out there, please consider becoming a Patron:
www.patreon.com/mikmilman
Though as an experienced photographer, and knowing this subject well, I enjoyed watching this vid all the way through. No matter my experience, I’m a believer that there’s always something new to learn. You’re very good at presenting educational material in a clear and understandable manner. Thanks for sharing your experience. -Dave-
Thank you, Dave. I very much appreciate you saying so.
I didn’t realize how little I knew about flash photography until all this valuable information. I DO realize how big God’s Grace is now as I have done multiple weddings in low light situations (totally wrong) and images were difficult to edit but mostly all sharp. I’ve got three big fancy weddings this year along with a few more smaller ones and you’re going to help me up my game tremendously!
While I do agree that they generally suck, one of my favorite lenses is my 55-250mm f/4-5.6. I hardly ever shoot at apertures like 1.4 and I never ever shoot 1.2 so that doesn't come into play at all. I just know that if I need f/5.6 or smaller, I can use this lens and the aperture won't change on me when I zoom in or out. And the lens is pretty crisp and sharp, especially for a Variable Aperture lens. Having said that, all my other lenses are fast Primes lol. I enjoy your teaching style and how clear you are. Keep doing your thing :)
Ah man Mik, you are blessed to be able to squat while taking photos. I can no longer do such a thing; I'd have to call EMS to help me stand again. I'm jealous. Lol. Hey, thank you for the video.
Thank you Mik!
Excellen, Mik. I enjoyed how thorough and clear this was pedagogically!
Thank you!
Really have enjoyed your channel. I keep coming back to reference your videos. One thing I haven’t seen you talk about is the new focusing modes of mirrorless. I have the R5 and I’m still playing with face/eye with servo, one shot etc. I would love to know how you utilize these. Thanks.
Great video man :) Yes - the variable aperture lenses suck, I can’t use them too! Are you recording your audio straight into the camera or into a seperate device? It’s super clear :)
Been using Rode wireless go ii mics.
I am not afraid of high ISO anymore. Modern sensors and modern software have changed the game. ISO 10,000 is not uncommon for interior shots if you also need some depth of field and shoot at f/4 of if you are using a budget lens with a slow aperture. I used an old 7D for outside shots last weekend in good light because it has a huge optical viewfinder that let’s me see everything and a joystick to move the focus point. Sun glare makes my mirrorless cameras so hard to use. I made the mistake of using the 7D for some unanticipated interior shots (stupid to reflexively use the camera in my hand instead if the one in my bag that would get the job done properly. But advanced noise reduction software produced an acceptable result, at least for social media purposes.
Great video. Amateur photographer here just getting into it as a hobby/possible side hustle. My passion is landscape and night photography. Been using the ol cellphone light trick for a little bit, works decent for me. I do say that I recently started acquiring vintage lenses and like the look of them for my style. Let me know if you want to sell any of yours since they’re in the closet of shame lol.
it should be better thank talking as a class teacher , to give samples and show more exposure issues and more photographs taken .. Thanks
Cool socks!
😂I noticed the same!
You are amazing
Great tips... I will be shooting some. Kittens in a very low light tomorrow wish luck lol
Goodluck!
@@MikMilman thank you.. I got the shots! I managed to bounce the flash of a little white wall where the kittens where chilling... It worked .
Happy to hear that.
@@MikMilman I set the iso for the ambient light like you said. But I aslo had it in auto as the cats can move around a lot.. And when the flash fired the iso dropped.. Worked a treat..
@@MikMilman I have just changed my profile picture to one of the shots I got..
I’m struggling to shoot at faster shutter speed in a dark environment, black walls , black ceiling…so bouncing light is not an option, i feel like if I decrease shutter speed, i won’t be able to freeze motion, how can I use flash without my images looking too washed out?
In this situation you would want to get your flash off camera, either hand held or on a flash bracket.
my nikon 5600 camera has trouble focusing in any indoor space let alone low light. How do ou get AF to focus?
It sounds like you might just be dealing with a limitation of your camera. Not all cameras focus equally in low light.
I’m had the change to shoot concerts though I’m afraid to because i still shoot on a crop sensor (nikon d5000) pretty old body and even though I’ve a 70 200 f2.8 I don’t think i can get good exposured photos at a concert .could you do a video on this please would truly appreciate it
I could add that to my list. Could you help me out by sending me as many concert related questions as you can?
@@MikMilman how to shoot concerts with a crop sensor
What equipment to take for shooting a concert
Your personal favorite go to concert equipment
Best way to brand your concert content (watermark or unique color grade)
Best position to be at while shooting concerts (in the crowds ,pit or stage)
@@MikMilman love your videos by the way
I often shoot musical groups in low light situations where flash is not a viable option. For me, the "game changer" has been noise reduction software--I use Topaz deNoise. I typically apply deNoise on a separate layer in Photoshop and then reduce that layer to roughly 80 percent to keep the smoothing effect from looking like plastic. I may also brush in that percentage at different levels in different parts of the image.
Hey there! If I may jump in, I've shot music on crop sensor bodies for about 10 years now, and it's absolutely doable. In fact, your gear is significantly better than what I started with. What matters most in shooting music is honestly not the gear; it's your ability to listen to the music that is being played and use it to anticipate the actions of the musicians / performers onstage. If you can successfully predict their actions and movements, you will have a much easier go of it trying to time your shots to the apex of their movements. Additionally, aiming for that apex of a movement is very helpful in both reducing motion blur and in allowing you to shoot at much slower shutter speeds than you would need if you were trying to capture them mid-movement.
I recently shot a Dj party with eos r and used flash 1/16th manual , iso 1600 and f2.8 looked great on camera
All the images looks grainy and not sharp
What am I missing to get really sharp ?
Is it flash power less or lens
What would be your setting in this situation ?
Really appreciated and subscribed
There are cases in which that setup would be fine, but in the vast majority of situations it would not be. If you have no already, I would watch this video:
ua-cam.com/video/8ayloPxXBQs/v-deo.html
In it, I demonstrate and explain why shooting your flash in manual is not a practical solution for the vast majority of events.
Then I would watch this one:
ua-cam.com/video/EIwYnHqhNfA/v-deo.html
This will explain why you may still get inconsistent results, how to correct for them, and essentially how to take control over your flash output while shooting in TTL.
I can not give you a definitive answer to your question, but here are the things to consider that may help you figure it out:
-ISO 1600 should look fine with the EOS R-not overly grainy.
-f2.8 will result in pretty shallow DOF, but so long as you nail your focus your subject should be sharp
-it may be that you were missing your focus
-check that nothing is wrong with your setup by experimenting with a lot of light.
@@MikMilman really appreciated
I will watch then now
Yes you are right I might have missed focus on subject .
What would be setting for focus to get it right in this situation ?
It is very much appreciated and thank you for your quick responses ❤️❤️
With the eos R, I would use single point focus.
@@MikMilman appreciated
As I’m trying to upgrade which camera would be nice R5 or R6 50mm 1.2 or 35 1.2 sigma
My r6 with the 50 is my favorite combo right now.
😊👍
Filming at such a shallow depth of field at an angle like this can be a little distracting.. Close down the aperture a little bit for a talking head like this..
Yeah, I can consider that.