So, Your Photos Aren't Sharp? Here's Why.
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- Опубліковано 26 січ 2021
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#howto #photography #tutorial
Do you feel like your images should/could be sharper? How many images from each shoot would you classify as blurry? Are you struggling to get that tack sharpness in your portrait, landscape, or product images?
In this video, we explore the main reason beginner and intermediate photographers struggle to get tack sharp images in all situations. Hint: it all has to do with shutter speed.
If your shutter speed is too slow, your camera will capture your movement as the photographer as well as the movement of your subject. This movement leads to images looking blurry and lowering your consistency of capturing crisp, sharp images.
Both learning how to control your shutter speed and learning some good benchmarks for the different subject matter you photograph is key to maximizing the percentage of sharp images that you shoot.
Watch the video for more!
Yes, my shirt is not ironed. I know it's "Ironic" that I'm talking about sharpness while simultaneously not looking the "sharpest." Anyway, thank you all for your comments, likes, shares, and subs. We really appreciate it! 😀
Stole my comment (shirt) 😃 Great advice, glad you have a sense of humor!
I am so happy you helped iron out things out for me.
If you have THINGS bouncing around in your head, you should see a doctor.
That sounds like a most serious medical condition.
Greetings and best wishes from Germany, Home of WW2.
@@beths8998 😂😂
@Ray V Lol 😜
Young man I have been a professional photographer since 1980 and I have to tell you that is one of the best videos I have seen on how to get sharp photographs!👏👏👏
Thank you very much! That means a lot.
George I want to just pause to thank you for encouraging young people. 🙏
I been a personal photographer since 1201 and i can too approve this video
@@DeepSeaManta serk(rkjoy saws Essa Sssa away A Dad sss
I starting working in the 90's and said the same thing about the video. He even gave examples and showed that you have to understand the basics of light and nothing is set in stone!!!!
This may have already mentioned in the comments but I would like to add one more thing. New photographers don't know to set their focus mode. There's one for stills and one for tracking moving subjects. Nikon and Canon call their single focus mode AF-S or One Shot. It will only focus your camera the one time when you press the shutter button. This is great for landscape when nothing is moving. It's the wrong mode to use for moving subjects. For moving subjects you will want to use AF-C or AI Servo. As long as your shutter button, or back button,
is half pressed/pressed, your camera will continue to track the subject until you press the shutter button. Back button focus is the best option to use because it disconnects the function of focusing from the shutter button. You can always keep your camera in continuous focus mode. If you have a still subject just press the button once. If your subject is moving you just hold the button down until you take the picture. Good video by the way.
Good timing 😉 Camera Focus and Drive Modes EXPLAINED.
ua-cam.com/video/IK0hwWLMj_c/v-deo.html
Commenting to reference later.
Even better anticipate the subject's movements and focus by hand since sometimes If you don't use high end stuff the autofocus will never be fast enough :D
AFC is fine for still subjects if you use back button focus
@@cynic252 yes that's true. But if you only tap the bbf it will act like single focus mode. It only acts like continuous focus mode if you hold the button down.
Great tips. I know it's a compromise, but I'll usually take a sharp image over noise. My tip I'll give I was actually told by another pro when shooting presentations/podium shoots - 125 shutter is bare minimum, Yes, in low light situations you sometimes have to push the ISO further than you'd like but it's worth it. I photographed some executives recently doing a presentation and I was seated so I said "1/60 is OK". Guess what? - when I previewed a few during the shoot I realized too many weren't sharp enough. When I pushed the ISO to give the one extra stop going to 1/125 the results were consistently better. Sometimes it is a game of inches - little things do make a difference.
Topaz Denoise is also an incredible tool for this, I shoot wildlife and sometimes get up to 8000 ISO, if everything else is correct their Ai suite will fix the noise very nicely
I always chose lower iso over shutter speed. Now I understand perhaps why I lacked sharper photos. Great practical info
But high iso more noise 😢
@@aiqalosky9449noise is much less of a problem than a photo that's intrinsically unsharp because of subject/camera motion.
Even my 10 year old DSLR is pretty good up to ISO 3200, and the newer ones are better still with another stop or two.
@@aiqalosky9449high ISO doesn't mean more noise! That's so false. If a photo is exposed right it can have a high ISO and still isn't noisy. And there is no point in having blurry photos but at least there is no noise right? So just do what it takes to get it exposed properly and have it sharp.
There's one thing I think that may have been good to mention in this video -> Depending on the angle that you shoot at, it's possible for the camera to autofocus on the subject's closer extremities, rather than their eyes or torso (or whatever you desire). It's most common in up-close shots, and I've been guilty in the past of shooting a session where some of the photos are OOF because the focus was on their nose or shoulder and I was shooting at a downward angle. An easy trap to fall in.
hello thanks so much for the motivation
As a former photo instructor, who has given this lesson many times, Great Job!
Wow, thanks!
There are more factors that can make photos unsharp.
The aperture:
Lenses are generally sharper two stops from maximum aperture. i.e. f5.6.
Stopping too far down (f22 or f32) will cause diffraction and loss of sharpness.
Exposure:
Especially with film, overexposure can cause a loss of sharpness.
Yes good add on!
This is such an important thing to know while also being something that I almost never see talked about. I didn't understand it was something I should be thinking about at all until I started watching Christopher Frost's lens reviews years ago.
Unless your a specialized professional possessing limited production-run photo/cinematography uber-glass made by Zeiss, Schneider, Rodenstock, etc.
I remember when my dad, who worked for NASA, took me to a lens factory in Rochester NY and I saw a batch of photo lenses being ground, individually checked under an interferometer and painstakingly hand assembled.
As a kid I asked, why couldn't a Canon or Nikon lens be used. The gentlemen replied that those lenses serve a purpose very-well but ultimately are toys.
This is a somewhat outdated idea.
And even more:
ISO (more detail and sharpness in a lower ISO)
Mirror or shutter shock
If you all want a video on the other (less common) reasons your images might not be tack sharp, let me know in the comments!
Yes please!
Great points in this video. For a long time, I was scared of increasing my ISO because of the fear of noisier images, but I came to find out that it's almost always a small price to pay in comparison to an image that isn't sharp.
Since ALL photographers use post-edit on their photos image noise is more acceptable than shapness I believe.
@@NerdGlassGamingPA we can de-noise a picture, but cant sharpen that is already blurred.
Amen, Brother!
I've ruined a lot of potentially great shots by working in Aperture priority to get just that perfect DOF only to discover later that my shutter speed was just a bit too slow and the critical bits of the image weren't sharp - especially the eyes! This can be so disappointing. Your suggestions are spot on.
A quick suggestion for experimenters:
1. put your camera in manual mode
2. set ISO to automatic
3. dial shutter speed to something manageable based on your intended shooting for the day and light conditions - 1/125, 1/250, 1/400
Now, your shutter speed should compensate for any hand-held shake and you can simply dial in the f-stop based on your desired DOF keeping an eye on your light meter. I've personally found that I can get very good results in post even when I've shot underexposed at -1.0 EV and some up to -2.0 EV as long as I'm not asking too much of it.
Just a thought.
Crackin' great video and excellent explanations. Many thanks!
Cheers, mate!
J
Excellent advice! After watching numerous videos I came to this exact conclusion!😊
Thanks for guiding me back to basics. After all my years you have made more sense on this important topic than I have ever experienced before. I hope I see better sharper images in future . I will also turn off the stabiliser and only use it as you have described.
Forrest, I wish I had seen this video long ago. You've made it crystal clear. Its going to solve the problem for me. Thank you.
You're welcome.
I am rewatching this video several months later and the shutter speed advise has improved the quality of my photos I still have work to do but absolutely helpful.
Thanks for sharing, we are glad to help!
You are the first person to really explain it that no one ever has and in a way I haven't understood before. This helps so much! I had these struggles with shutter and images not being in focus properly when I zoomed in the subject was blurry. Thank you so much!
Wow thank you! Glad to help!
I always suggest to new shooters and even enthusiasts; 1/125 unless you have to bring it down no less than 1/60 for wide angle/default lenses, and then lenses above 50mm 2.5xlens focal length to be on safe side or faster if moving.and use the lens aperture of 2 stops over the lenses specified widest aperture. but that's just the basic rule i use along with ISO 100 outside, 400 shaded/inside 800 or higher in darkness.
Or 8000 ISO when you're shooting a BIF with a 600mm lens handheld! haha
@@mdc3227 lol
Bro am using a 75-300mm lens .. Whats the best shutter speed to shoot human potraits in daylight outdoors.. I need good sharpness
@@dennysebastian4017 minimum of 1/125th but at 300mm you want to be around 1/500+ to 1/1000+, but depends on camera and lens shake compensation at the sharpest f/stop
@@GaryParris Thanks bro for the tip.
It was a fantastic video and really brought into mind what it means to be sharp over in focus.
Not only was this video clear, no pun intended, you come off as such a likable teacher that kept me watching the entire video. You have a new subscriber!
Thanks Steve!
Good advice on shutter speed. I'm trying to use old manual lenses - so no stabilisation - so my strategy is to use Shutter Priority with Auto ISO with an upper limit of say 3200, as the old lenses have an aperture ring. Then I can keep my shutter speed at the high end and the ISO will compensate automatically. That gives me full control over shutter speed and aperture.
Thanks so much for all your great advice Forrest!
We are always learning from your expertise! So good to see you even if it is virtual! Parker and Carla
Thanks you two!
I've never heard of the rule at 2:37, about keeping shutter speed faster than 1/[focal length]. Thanks, that's already a huge help!
Simply the best, better than all the rest. I loved how you made something that sounds quite complicated sound so simple. Thank you and good luck.
This was super helpful! I’ve been having issues with images being hit or miss with regards to images being sharp. I can’t wait to apply what I just learned from you.
This the first video on taking sharp photos with dslr, that has truly benefitted me. Thanks...
Yeah I have been really enjoying experimenting with "how to get my nature photos sharp even in different lighting situations" I've learned that I really like when I can get a sharp photo as well as a sorta dark esthetic vibe to my photos, that's my favorite area to be working in currently. It's really a balancing act of balancing shadows, bright spots, crisp detail with your focus that's not overdone from too high of ISO or something that creates noise (static type effect). So I started playing and testing things and it's funny, you get everything dialed in, but, that's for that specific spot, so you sorta learn this process of letting go and being okay with being adaptive and flexible when exploring and taking photos in manual mode. Once I find I can use a shutter speed of 1/80th- 1/100th to take a picture on the forest floor and it being sharp focus, while also giving me room for playing with my aperture, because I love getting a good depth of field in a photo when you can, so I found I'm going to take a picture of a mushroom that's in the shade from the forest canape blocking the light. So then I had to up my ISO, which I pushed up to 1600-3200, or sometimes I can use 400-or 200 iso if I'm in good lighting. Then you just play around with your aperture setting and that's half the fun I've been learning since i started using fully manual Nikkor lense's and manual mode on my Nikon D3300 DSLR. It gets me by decently for a camera that wasn't that expensive. I just wish it was a full frame sensor camera. I really want one of those because they can go with a lot of different lenses and I love to get old lenses from thrift stores or what not. I appreciate this video, it's going to help a ton of people with something that is really good to know how to do, and at first it really is a odd thing to try to get used to but once you fiddle with it enough it starts to eventually find it's flow, and you get this sorta approximated understanding of which direction you need to go (with your settings) and that feels cool. It's like learning another language or something.
Most camera systems have either in-body or in-lens stabilisation which is a great help to get sharp pictures - with my Olympus E-M1 I can hand hold with a 35mm equivalent 50mm prime at up to 2 seconds with no camera shake - and I drink coffee and I'm over 60 years old! The stabilisation also helps manual focusing because the camera shake is neutralised and you see more clearly through the viewfinder.
Good information, great delivery. Broke it down really well for this novice. Thanks man.
Brilliant. You took the relatively complex and made it digestible in a single run.
THANK you.
A book I read pointed out that you often don't want a too fast shutterspeed as to capture motion. For example a photograph where you're capturing people walking, you don't want to completely freeze the frame but rather want some motion in the image which is achieved by having a slower shutterspeed like 1/60. Flowing water is also a nice example but there both sides of the spectrum, while completely different, are very desirable.
One thing I would have appreciated is mentioning using shutter speed artistically, you don't always need to get everything completely tack sharp, especially things like moving water looks really nice with a slower shutter speed because it shows the movement of the flowing water, in the same sense for the basketball example I think you could make some really nice shots if you were be able to get the players tack sharp but have the ball with some motion blur to show movement.
Great video. It seems like my photos are always not very sharp. Now that I've experimented with your suggestions, my photos are better(sharper) with higher shutter speeds. Thanks so much.
Excellent straightforward explanation. Thank you.
Thank you for these golden tips, which I didn't know for years. I learned from my father that taking an analog picture should start at 1/60sec or higher, unless you put it on a tripod. It's only with modern gear and stabilization that you can shoot slower.
I once saw a video of a guy so proud to have learned his 5 year grandson to successfully take flying birds at 1/500sec, the photos being sharp. I couldn't take anything with these kind of settings (with an 450D) and a Sigma 170-500mm (no stab), even at 400mm. Ok, that kid had a 5D with a Canon pro/prime lens.
When I learned I should start at 1000-2000 for anything that is moving wildlife, I finally came home with brilliant pictures, even with this old slow lens and out of hand.
And don't forget: you need to compensate for many things on crop sensors.
Excellent advice.... especially about checking the sharpness before an event. I thought I was good at one point and shot an entire game only to have to throw out 50% of the photos. Some blur can be cool but sparingly of course. Thanks for the good, well explained subject matter.
Great video - Kai W put out a video recently about freezing high speed action with flash, as often even higher speeds don’t actually freeze the motion as effectively as a flash! (But flash isn’t always an option
)
I have a lot of vintage manual focus lenses and I find that getting 100% accurate manual focus, especially when shooting wide open, is very hard because the focus indicator in the viewfinder (Nikon D600) lights up when the focus is only approximately correct. To get it just right can only happen by sheer luck. That is why I mainly use the vintage lenses when I shoot on a tripod and I can use the live view feature on the camera's display at maximum zoom to actually see the focus at pixel level. Which is of course only possible when you shoot at inanimate objects.
Your video was so good I didn’t notice your shirt. Thank you. It’s nothing a drier sheet can’t fix. Your presentation was very clear and easy to understand.
The lore is that the 1/(focal length) rule for shutter speed came from old school, medium format press photographers. And that generally works on my RZ67. But for a 35mm size digital/film camera that's not enough. Thus, his advice to add an additional stop of shutter speed is sound. For 35mm I use 1/(2x focal length) if using a non-stabilized lens, I try to use 1/125 for a 50mm lens on FF, and also for my RZ67 with the 110mm lens.
Why not just go with the quickest shutter for the preferred aperture (at least if you are going for the sharpest shot)?
I do go for the quickest shutter. But the rule is a mental one that says, "if the quickest shutter is not at least X, then you can't shoot this handheld." So the rule is a go/no-go decision point for handheld. Not a rule that tells me where to set the shutter.
@@eyesonly4451 Well, different techniques can be used to improve the chances of taking a sharp shot, including those used by snipers (muscle relaxation, controlled breathing, use of the sling), also delayed trigger and burst shooting, not to mention the optical image stabilization can be pretty good in itself. But for a less controlled environment I guess that's a good rule of thumb.
@@getsideways7257 I agree. And if haven't had too much caffeine, can get my breathing just right, and press the shutter so that it releases between heartbeats, I may can do a little better. But that's a lot of 'ifs'. So it's just a rule of thumb that tells men when I'm approaching the limit of handheld, and need to breakout the tripod, which is the only real option for film. I guess cameras with auto-ISO have a third option, but that seems to be cheating in some way.
@@eyesonly4451 Indeed, a tripod is the only option for that. As for auto-ISO, not really a fan of going up the ISO scale, but sometimes there is no other choice.
Very helpful video! This makes a lot of sense! I've always been so hesitant to increase the ISO because I didn't want to introduce a bunch of noise into my photos, but then the photos of my kids indoors would all be so blurry and i would discard at least half of them. So finally, at the next birthday party I increased the ISO so i could increase the shutter speed and I was MUCH happier with the photos as a whole!
Glad it was helpful!
Same! It's still a bit noisy for me so figuring out the right balance right now!
i remember when i first learned manual photography i always overexposed my photos but when i started editing my photos that was a game changer
Thanks. Sound advice. Took me a while to figure the best speed for fast flying birds. Motor sport a little easier, but I'm seeking a degree of blur when panning as when wheels 'frozen' a race car can just look parked. Not so bad with bikes as they lean around bends.
Separately understanding DOF is useful too, as is focusing on hyperfocal point to help maximiser DOF in landscape work. Or alternatively learn how to focus stack.
For newbies as myself I did not understand alot of this. It would have been easier if you showed us on the camera step by step of what you where talking about. It would take more time for you to make this video. But more understandable for us who don't no anything about cameras. Thank you for doing this video though.
I'm a novice photographer as well and have no idea about anything photography-related past setting my camera up and seeing what looks right, but this video made sense. Even the jargon.
I'd suggest just looking up some more info about how cameras work and this video should be clearer to you really soon, and I don't mean that in a condescending way at all.
Great breakdown of the difference between focus and sharpness. I like your teaching style with good real world examples, easy sub for me.
Awesome, thank you!
Stumbled upon this video, a very well-articulated explanation of the topic with a practical situation that makes it so much easier to relate and learn from you. Thanks for making this. Keep it up!
This is genuinly the best video about solving a problem I have had without understanding that I have had it. Thank you!
Great to hear! Thanks so much for watching!
1:54 "That shake is gonna pickup if my shutterspeed is too slow" simple yet brilliant. The way you said that made something click (no pun intended)👍
yay so glad!! haha
You can add about shutter speed that if you use a tripot or fix the kamera in another way then remember to stop the built in stabilasation. If it is on the camera will wibrate when you take the picture.
My question is, is it possible to hold the camera so steady it messes with ibis? Ever take a shot sitting with the camera in your lap with the screen tilted up at you?
yes boy the camera is shaking, you have a wide cultural and technical vocabulary for this field. The stabilisation comes from the brain balance either you right or left inclination on the tripod when you screw the camera on the tripod.
You are good at explaining complex subjects! Concise, and not too fast/not too slow/just right! Whether someone has some photography experience refreshing their knowledge or are just hearing this for the first time, there is something for everyone in the well-done video. 👍
Thank you! I appreciate it!
I'm just beginning my journey on being a photographer. Your advice will really help me alot . Thanks so muc.
Hey brother, I just subscribed to your channel from both of my accounts. I've been trying to get sharp photos for weeks and I watched so many videos with so many techniques yet I still couldn't achieve total sharpness that is until I stumbled across your video. You explained it so simple and so straight forward. I applied what you said and just like that super sharp photos! I'm extremely impressed and will be forever grateful! You Rock!!! Thank you. Definitely should have more views than you have!
Thank you! I'm so glad the video was helpful!
Great vid. Wouldve appreciated if you had included some examples, but the explanation was flawless.
Noted!
Thanks. Knowing i need to keep my shutter speed higher than my focal length changes everything for me as a beginner.
Happy to help!
It’s rare that a UA-cam video would have simple, step by step, basic English instructions. I learnt a lot. THANK YOU!
Glad to hear!!
What about crop camera ? On a Fuji using a 35mm lens is it recommended to use 1/35 or do we need to consider the crop factor ?
As a motorsport photographer. The shutter speed doesn't seem to apply for panning shots. Sure a 200 mm set at 1/200's with show a sharp motioned image but won't give a good sense of speed.
Thank-you for making this explanation simplistic yet concise, on how shutter speed affects photography.
My pleasure!
Aaaahhhhh this is awesome! I keep wondering why my pics have been "blurry" and I've been getting frustrated with this!! definitely giving these tips a try! thank you!
I'll say that I absolutely love the images that a Mark IV can produce but if you want something almost foolproof the Canon R6 is way easier to get a sharp picture for a beginner. I speak from experience!
Re: The Shirt. So what! It's the subject matter that counts. Good job. I've only seen a few of your videos but those have been helpful. Thanks for the effort.
Thanks so much really appreciate you!
Omg! I could just hug you for this video. This, this, this! This was the answer I was looking for! ❤
Clear and to the point. Thank you 👍🏻
Don’t worry about the shirt-the content was so good I didn’t notice! And I would love to see a video on the less common reasons. Thank you for your videos!
This is a great video and I agree with everything said. One additional thing to add: sometimes you just need a better camera.
I shoot wildlife photography mostly. I used a Nikon D3300 (entry level DX camera) for years and I just wasn't happy with the results. Getting better lenses helped but I still struggled in shady areas and later in the afternoons (or early mornings). Getting ISO high enough to get sharp images meant the images had a ton of noise and were unusable.
I upgraded to a camera with a better sensor and better low light capabilities and it made a huge difference. Now I can follow the tips in this video and get results I'm happy with.
What did you upgrade to?
@@lucasdurante_ Nikon Z6 II
(Not sure why I didn't include that in my original comment)
You touched an important matter! Thank you for your detailing this and showing us how to solve these problems with blurry photos!
Glad to help!
I’ve always erred towards aperture priority, but this video has made me rethink that and I’ve attained better shots of wildlife using shutter priority. It all comes down to the basics as usual; don’t use a shutter speed lower than focal length. Thanks for the sage advice.
Yees, I've definitely noticed this too. Balancing using high enough iso to get a good shutter speed but not getting too much noise is important
There’s also another aspect which you missed, pixel count. Having a 61mp image with say a 85mm lens is an equivalent of using a 135mm lens on a 20-24mp camera (roughly I don’t know the exact formula) because when you view it at 1:1 pixels it’s tighter in.
I wouldnt say its the same exactly as you always have more data and flexability with the wider shot at higher Mpx, however i get the point your trying to make yes using a camera with higher Mpx and shorter focal length can produce the same result when cropping as a longer focal length on a smaller sensor (provided your using a good quality lens.) This is why you can produce almost identical images with aps-c and MFT cameras that you can with full frame/35mm film cameras. The limitation is usually the ammount of light captured you often can't get aparature wide enough to match for a FF equivalent (i.e. when you do the math you can find you would need aparatures of
Great video, but the fractional ratio for shutterspeed might be a bit of a dated fallacy, left over from the days of shooting film, for relatively small print production, this is especially evident with higher resolution sensors, and images that are often blown up large or cropped in on. There is a real consideration that must be taken for the level of detail that you aim to freeze. Shooting with more than 30mp may result in an image with details at 24mm that are visible at pixel deapth that expose the kind of movement that might be more of a concern at 200mm, and shooting with more than 50mp might make even shooting macros of flowers seem difficult to capture under a 1/500th sometimes. I jumped into the comments here early, admittedly to advise you about the value of an IRON, LOL, but am still watching the video while I type and will concur, the science to be cognizant of is the movement itself, and how fast across the frame, it will step across the pixels recorded while the shutter is open. What you've shared is great practical advice for those seeking better understanding for sure. That said sometime motion blur can be an artistic or intentional capture and design element.
Wish I had this video when I was new to photography! Best instructional video on photography I’ve seen 🙌
So based on your basketball game example if you adjust SS to 1/2000, thus losing light. Would it be benefit you to increase ISO and bringing more noise into the shoot ?If so can you explain. I am trying to understand this based on your teachings from your beginners video("Increased ISO will add more noise to an image". So how will this sharpen the image if it brings more noise. Thanks
Ahh, that is a fantastic question. To me, a sharp photo is paramount, so I would choose to raise my ISO just to ensure I get a fast enough shutter speed. Yes, I'd get more noise, but that is a trade I'm willing to make.
@@RMSPtv So does this mean that your subject will be sharper and background will have more noise ? Or will the photo overall be sharpe, but will have some noise ?
@@187McNasty if the gym is of such poor light than noise they get and most understand this. maybe bring lights to at least get one end well lite. charge according. ps- noise isn't they worse thing if it is for coverage but id if your client is trying to make posters again charge accordingly
Buy fast lens to increase apertur
For basketball I use these settings: ISO 800-1250 depending on venue light. Shutter speed 640-800, f2.8. Works well.
The one thing I never see is a "deep dive" into a picture that looks sharp so we can see how sharp it is when we magnify it as much as we can. When I go deep... the picture NEVER looks "tac sharp". Therefore, I can never say the picture is sharp. (edit) It has been a year. I think I have unrealistic expectations of myself.
Very helpful video, thank you! I like to shoot with a 70-300mm lens and I often forget to change the shutter speed as I change focal lengths, this will help with figuring the shutter speeds I need to be using
7:51 i cant unsee it lol. I've had something like that happen to me in a podcast (still a newb) i appreciate this info you putting out my man. super valuable and explained it better than i could lol.
It might be worth mentioning that lenses have best sharpness at certain apertures
This is really good info - But dam iron that shirt, the perfectionist in me could not take my eyes off those wrinkles -
Hahaha, thanks. And yes, I agree 100%
He’s teaching us lighting too
Omg thank you! Very simply explained!
Your presentation is really really pinpointing... Superbly excellent.
How you gonna tell me how to shoot sharp
Pics when your shirt looks beyond wrinkled lol ok
Hahahaha. Yep. I sure am!
Thank you, this was something iI have been struggling with myself. Will take these tips and apply on my nest shoot. Shooting with a Canon R5 with 15-35 2.8, 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8.
Excellent! You’re such an awesome instructor! Thanks as always for for excellent explanation of our craft! 🤙🏼🤙🏼
Great video. Very different in its perspective to most aperture, shutter speed and ISO videos you can find and helpful on such a different level. Thanks
This was really helpful, thank you!
Thx power of ur message is worth every bit
Excellent and right to the point. I teach the same except I write on the black/white board. At the beginning I hold back on tech overload.
Incredible video! So informative and easy to understand! Thank you!
This is the reason i shoot with shutter speed priority. And the kit lens normally doesn’t have the highest quality glass. Zooming in at max can cause images with a kit lens to be blurry too
Nice work, clearly and simply explained. Well done.
Woohoo!! Thank you so much. You explained that so well that I understood perfectly. I get alot of blurry images and it is mostly too slow shutter speed.
Cheers.
Amen, my brother, amen!
I was having issues with blurry photos using a 50mm 1.8 but when I saw this video (thank God I did -- instant subscriber btw) and tried the never going slower than 1/focal length, boom, epiphany!
I agree also on having a little noisy photo but tack sharp than to have a very clean one but blurry.
Thank you for this awesome video and more power to you.
Incredible explanation. Thanks for the content.
You explain really well thank you.
I learned so much here, even things I didn't expect to learn. I really appreciate your thoroughness and care for your audience. Thank you so very much.
My pleasure!
I have tended to concentrate on ISO trying to get the lowest number thinking that i will get more detailed image. Now i see where i have been going wrong in that the sharpness of my images is random. Thanks for this vid great advice.
Thank you so much , its my 1st pre weeding shoot tomorrow , this will definitely help . Thank you
Excellent share! One of the best explanations I’ve heard. Thank you!
Great video, seriously. Honest, detailed AND easy to grasp information. You know what you’re talking about. You don’t edit your video with a ton of cuts every second. And one of my pet peeves you avoid- you pronounce “photographer” correctly! 😂 UA-camrs that say “phurtography” then say “photo” make me stop the video immediately- you don’t. Much praise, sir. Cheers.
hahaha, thank you much!
I go by focal length when setting my s.s. With my 150-600 mm Tamron I usually go no less than 1/1250 sec unless the subject is sitting very still and then I can get away with 1/320 sec-1/640 sec with my in lens VR turned on. i get some good pics that way with lower ISO.
That's a great way to do it!
Thank you for this!
Thank You.
This video answered a few of my Q'S already 🤗
Most of my photos come out blurry.Been disappointed to say the least.I have learnt a lot from your video.Thanks for sharing👍
Excellent guide and tips for photographers
This is an amazing explanation. Thank you so much for this!
Glad you enjoyed it!