I am pretty sure yoyr advice on many videos is what has got my new house in shape. From installing my shower, to installing doors and can lighting. Keep up the great videos, your videos help the DIY guys make things happen with easy instructions and great know how. Thanks again.
I have learned a lot by watching Jeff's videos, but here's the thing. If you are going to teach yourself by watching UA-cam, you should look at a lot of videos from different people/groups and complement this learning by reading a few books from your local library. This way you can glean what you can from each video, while also recognizing the things that are wrong (e.g. the position of the crimp ring at 10:19 is clearly out of tolerance).
Also the comment on the first connection from valve to drop is right. Pause your video at 10:19 and you will see how far off that crimp ring is. It should be tight on both ribs off the fitting. To help you with this you can use 'crimp-rite' rings. They also do not slide around and are not much more money. Please know I offer this criticism as constructive only. We're all in this together.
No difference in quality compared to other brands? Its simply the same crimp ring with the stopper on it? Are these common place as they look great and are cheaper.
Mr. Thorman, I appreciate your expertise. I just got thru dealing with my "potty" from hell... It took me 4 days to get that sucker to stop seeping water out of the tank. I guess I may be losing a bit of my 'grip' since I will be 80 this next Christmas...the LORD of Host's willing. Keep up the good videos. I watched a Moen video and they were using PEX and they cut the PEX in half and put a connector between the elbow and the valve. Looked like double the work and a possibility of doubling for a leak. On both sides of the valve. Keep up the good work.! Chevy P.S.: I've only had to call a plumber once and boy did I get a $224.00 lesson in what to do the next time.! We all need to learn how to "Drain the Swamp."
Mr. Thorman, thought you might be interested in this, however, you may have seen them in person. Rosey's Spitfire.. www.vintagewings.ca/VintageNews/Stories/tabid/116/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/594/Glorious-and-Free.aspx The Best too you, Chevy
I love your stuff I was a contractor for 13 years. Have used poly b and crimpers I just bought the best crimper worked great. Did my house 23 years ago still good.
I’m about to remodel my bathroom , switching from a tub to a shower so I value a lot your video including all the comments from other professionals, in my case I will not have an access panel, to monitor things and at my location I have a limited supply stores it’s down to Home Depot and Lowe’s and at this point just trying to figure out the most reliable method for shower valve installation, correct fittings and supply lines. Great video.
Thanks,Youexplained everything that i was wanting to know. This is the exact setup I am doing for a dog wash I have installed. Plumbing has always intimidated me but with pex and videos like yours I feel like I can do it .Thanks again!
Could you bend the PEX instead of using those elbows? Less turbulence and fewer connections to worry about. They make the 90 degree brackets to hold the pex in a curve.
Hate to nickpit, but that cap was cold soldered. You don't just want the solder to bond to the copper cap and fill the gap, you need it to bond to the valve as well. Heat *both* the cap and the valve (more important as it's a huge heat sink) so the solder will flow and bond to the brass as well as to the copper cap. When both are properly heated, you don't need to "push" the solder into the joint. A tiny bit at the joint will immediately wick into the joint and wet completely.
I'm replying to Johns comment to keep this discreet. He's right about the cap! I noticed quite a few teeth that will come to bite you later, Home Reno. I've been a Working, Licensed Plumber for 25 yrs. I give you an A for effort! Your Method needs a little work.
Your fittings weren't properly seated in the pipe. Rings not far enough on barbs. WHEN you have to repair. How will you access valve? You will have backing wood in your way. Screwed in!
Great video!! Are there any concerns with using pex for the shower connection and the tub connection? What I’m wondering is what’s called shower rise which is where you get shower water dripping/flowing when using the tub output which is obviously something you don’t want. I had read a Delta comment on Amazon that indicated the possible cause as being using pex for the tub section. Just wondering if you knew anything about this or had any experience with it. Thanks!!
I can't overemphasis - watching you gives me confidence. Although I watched this one 3 times! Can you show going from copper to sharkbite. I imagine it would be simply to braze the fitting to existing copper. But would love to see that next time. Your sons are probably getting really good.
When trying to hold a Pex ring in place, I take a pair of pliers and give the ring a slight squeeze and it will stay in place so you can use both hands to clamp it with the Pex tool. Just a slight squeeze, do not warp or bend it.
If you really wanted to get to it with an access panel from the back, you should've mounted the backer stud with screws from the back. Not as sturdy, but doesn't need to be and then you will be able to easily unscrew/dislodge the stud and get to the valve.
I'm glad that they now offer a PEX specific valve. No need to purchase/install adapters to allow for PEX supply lines. No need to modify this valve to work with Sharkbite fittings. It is specifically designed to use PEX tubing with the end users choice of crimp rings. Use a different valve if the use of Sharkbite fittings are desired. I much prefer to use the copper crimp rings over Sharkbite. 100's of connections with ZERO leaks. Sharkbites can fail over time, while I've yet to see a properly crimped PEX ring fail.
Well said. Many plumber friends have told me never to use Shark Bite fittings in a closed wall. The have an O-ring that can fail after awhile (Usually 10 years or more). They're fine for exposed plumbing where you can easily replace it later.
I’m looking to put in a dog wash, with spray head on a hose, plus would like dow spout to allow for filling buckets, etc. No tub, but will have shower pan with tile surround. Would I use one of these valves but not cover the down pipe with the brass cover? Is there a diverter in the shower body itself?
Instead of putting in those extra fittings to turn a corner, you can simply bend the pex. You had the space for it. There are plastic brackets that hold the pex in the right shape and keeps the tubing from kinking by bending it too sharply. Fewer fittings means fewer chances for leaks and also money saved. I also hope you attached the tubing to the studs every so often to keep them from jumping around from water hammer and keep them centered in the wall and away from screws and nails.
No worries, I am running the water to a shower wand. These types if fixtures have more restriction in them then my corners do so it will not effect the performance.
I live in Indiana, USA. I live in a Tri level built in 1960. My plumbing is metal pipe. Is there a fish bite, or an even better way to switch from 3/4” metal pipe to pex?
In a climate like Denver, would you use ABS or PVC for the DWV system in a basement bathroom under the slab? Or is it more important just to see what my Home Depot has more materials for?
On your supply line fitting that you have attached solidly to you 2x4, you will probably have to connect a nipple pipe on it. This nipple pipe is threaded on both sides so how to prevent from screwing/unscrewing when you gonna attach something at the other end? Thanks in advance 😎
Hello i am remodeling my shower/ tub and the new tub is 6" wider in an alcove intallation, now the shower head and valve is not going to be center whay should i do now? thanks
You can leave in the rough valve as long as you simply turn off the valves to the right and left of the valve body. The mixing valve is only live when the hot and cold valves are live. Just in case you ever have to do one without the trim kit.
so when u crimp it the go one should go but not all the way and the no go should not go ? does it matter from what angle? i did mine and in mine both no go and go - goes also is there any tester to check if these are not leaking thx
Love your videos but to correct your comment at 11:31... HOT water in toilets actually keeps them from sweating. Water condenses on a Cold surface. Toilets sweat from being filled with cold water not hot. Avoiding a sweating toilet is properly done by insulating the tank, or mixing hot water in the toilet supply.
How do you determine the depth of the nipple pipe going to your hand held shower drop so as to make sure that it will be water tight and at the same time come out of the wall depth so the wall fixture escutcheon fitting will fit snug to the shower wall and not stick out?
the finishing trim is adjustable. The nipple comes in various lengths in increments of 1/2 inch. I usually set it back 1/2" from framed wall. This always works well
Every system has a potential for leaks. The important thing is to know how to fix the problem. No one is perfect and no product is perfect. The key is to be handy, not perfect.
Why did you choose that type of PEX? I've been reading that the uponor works forever and that metal crimp PEX will eventually cause the owner to have to re=plumb the entire install in a few years. Is that true ?
No. Not at this point. The pex is attached to the stud now from the back within 16 inches of the valve. And of course the valve is screwed to the wall.
Do you have a tutorial on how to convert from a 3 handle shower compressor/valve to a single using cpvc pipe, glue fittings and installing a pipe & shower arm so you have an actual shower head instead of a converter spout?
always check the manufacturers recommendation. They usually have a range that is acceptable. You also need to account for your own building materials and how thick they will be. The trick is to measure bask from what you expect the finished surface to be.
yes you can use a pex cap but never use pex going up to the shower head because the head will have flex in it and you dont want that even if you screw in the wing back 90
Yes. There are plenty of manufacturers who sell this type of valve. You may find it hard to locate at the local building store however. I suggest you find a plumbing wholesaler. They usually sell to retail clients and can help you find what you are looking for. American standard, moen, delta, riobel, grohe, all have this valve for example.
Do you have a video that shows the progress of this project after this point? I'd like to see how the slide bar was installed. Also, have you ever worked with Moentrol 5210 (1/2" IPS) valve? I'm planning to go from a 2 handle tub shower system to a 1 handle shower with slidebar system. You mentioned the push-fit connections would not fit this valve, but if I use some sort of coupling, would it work? I'm not comfortable sweating copper and don't have any of the crimping tools. Can PEX be used as a supply line for a tub spout? (I'm planning to add a new tub/shower to another area of the house to replace a small shower stall).
This video is good but missing some important elements for long lasting installations. PEX is a great product and has been in use in Europe for decades now. Note that the crimp on fittings can leak so it's best to use the solid copper fittings and the proper ring clamp tool for longer lasting and durable fittings. The up front cost is higher but for fittings that you want to be absolutely sure of for the long run, use the solid rings. Note also, all rings must be installed between 1/8 3mm and 1/4 inch 6mm from the end of the PEX pipe and the PEX pipe must be pushed all the way to the stop on the fitting. Rings must be 90 degrees square to the pipe fittings, no angle on the ring else water leaks under pressure. Adam Breen is obviously a Plumber and an expert. He has to meet certain requirements in his home country of Australia but the industry world wide is changing quite rapidly thanks to this product. I live in TEXAS where the plumbers opposed PEX for many years until thieves were stealing all the copper they installed overnight two and tree times. Plumbing companies were going broke reinstalling on new construction. The local codes were changed in most municipality's years ago. I have been remodeling bathrooms for years and always find charred wood in the walls where the plumbers installed copper. The new PEX installations have no charred wood. Professional plumbers are done with the job in an hour and I don't have to worry about slow smoldering wood erupting into a fire after the end of the day, burning my clients homes down after the workers have left for the day. If the residents are living in the home, water service can be back on in as little as 15 minutes once the valves are installed. Thousands of plumbers are using this product. When installed properly, it's great. Watch several different sources on you tube though. Jeff did a good job putting this together and video recording but did not mention the critical distances and the importance of using a proper tool and the use of the go no-go gauge to verify the fitting installation. Watch others, learn and DO IT YOURSELF when you feel confident.
Thanks Vince, However I did use the go no go gauge and I also used the proper solid rings available at the local hardware store. I am only going to teach homeowners how to use products they can get easily without going to the professional distribution stores. This product is very good and should last the test of time.
I didn’t watch every second of video but what do u do if you use the test tool and it doesn’t fit? Do you simply crimp it again until it fits or does it have to be cut and replaced with new ring?
You brushed the inside of the cap, and fluxed it, but you did nothing to the brass valve! That was a terrible sweat joint. And finally, always heat the heavier metal, in this case, the valve, and not the copper fitting.
Have seen a few of your vids now, seems like you like the type B and C pex, have you had to come back and fix any leaking issues? How much time has it been since your first crimp pex install? Thanks for the help!
Asking because I'm getting ready to remodel my bathrooms. Crimp style seems easier to work with than the type A pex, hence my question. Thanks again for the vids.
A shower valve installed with pex. I knew one day I would see this. I just knew it. Probably because of all the people stealing copper pipe. Maybe this is a good thing. If a professional is doing the work it should be fine,right? Most people have no clue how to solder anyway. So, one day these will just be shark bite valves with no more pesky crimp rings. The valve body will be plastic with some brass inserts built in.
My value stems are old and the converter doesn't work because the pipe and showerhead etc were removed. I'm tired of the 3 handle system and using the attachment to the spout.
Hey....I'm in the process of changing a shower valve in a wall. I soldered the elbows but got incredible bubbles all around. I'm afraid its not done properly. How can I ck this with the water off and even more so, how can I remove the clumps?? I'm confused as I heated awhile to make sure hot enough but this is what I kept getting ....HELP
I’m installing my bathtub in a couple weeks and I’m really nervous about using PEX because I’ve been told that if I were to ever have a rodent problem they will eat right thru the pipe. I’ve also been told not to us shark bites because they will fail. I’m not comfortable sweating copper pipe but that seems to be the way to go. 🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
If you are not comfortable with sweating copper, go down to your home store, grab a few pieces of copper, a few male & female end pieces you can attach to your water hose, and practice sweating some joints together. Once done, connect it to the hose, and turn it on. Repeat until you have no leaks. In reality, understanding how to sweat copper, is different than technique. Once you have technique, piece of cake. Just don't overheat the copper, and make sure you use plenty of flux.
Is the first time I find on the web that the supply lines come to the mixing valve from above. Is that ok? is there any reason why 99.9% of the people install the supply lines from bellow? I'm asking because I planning my diy installation and looks convenient form me.
Hi Daniel. This bathroom was built in a basement and the water supply was in the ceiling. As such it is very convenient to tee off and just drop down a line.
instead of sweating on a cap crimp on a small piece of pex and cap with a sharkbite cap one ring and 3inches of pex might be 30 cents.... then they dont have to re manufacture
There is nothing on UA-cam about a shower bath. They're all either a shower or a bath. How do you put a diverter valve into this?? So you can change between the shower and bath???? I can't find anything. This is a great video, but will this valve work for the bath as well as the shower simutaniously and allow the ability to change between one or the other? I can't find anything on this....
There are 2 kinds of diverter. One where you pull on the spout to change the direction of the water and the other is in the handle. Whichever one you choose you run the plumbing the same. How it functions is a matter of the fixture not the plumbing.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Stops or valves are required whether they they come installed w/ the rough in valve body or not...all fixtures require shut off valves...
Water hammer is NOT limited to any particular type of piping. It is a fluid flow/velocity issue which must be considered during piping system design and properly compensated for. Read about Water Hammer on Wikipedia (en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_hammer) or elsewhere.
And then, after you put the wall and tile on, how (when valve needs replacement) will you replace the valve with that clamping tool using the small hole in the tile? You will need to take the tiles out to make enough room to perform the job resulting in re-construction the half of the bathroom. You guys think only about your convenience to install it when there's no walls, creating the problem for the house owner when the valve needs to be replaced, making such minor replacement to be a big deal...
I recognize I may be asking a question that could be considered similar to discussing politics at the Thanksgiving dinner table..... I've seen your prior video that included the use of clamp style PEX rings in comparison to the crimp style in this video. Do you have a personal preference and why?
The previous video was made to show how to use the available crimp system being sold at the box store for a reasonable price. The new video shows the better system that is now available for $100.00. There are better systems than this on the market but I try to show videos based on reasonably priced tools for the homeowner.
I am pretty sure yoyr advice on many videos is what has got my new house in shape. From installing my shower, to installing doors and can lighting. Keep up the great videos, your videos help the DIY guys make things happen with easy instructions and great know how. Thanks again.
I have learned a lot by watching Jeff's videos, but here's the thing. If you are going to teach yourself by watching UA-cam, you should look at a lot of videos from different people/groups and complement this learning by reading a few books from your local library. This way you can glean what you can from each video, while also recognizing the things that are wrong (e.g. the position of the crimp ring at 10:19 is clearly out of tolerance).
I can always count on your videos to help me through my DIY projects at my house!
Thanks! We are building a cabin, and this is exactly what I need to do in order to install our shower and kitchen faucet.
Also the comment on the first connection from valve to drop is right. Pause your video at 10:19 and you will see how far off that crimp ring is. It should be tight on both ribs off the fitting.
To help you with this you can use 'crimp-rite' rings. They also do not slide around and are not much more money.
Please know I offer this criticism as constructive only.
We're all in this together.
No difference in quality compared to other brands? Its simply the same crimp ring with the stopper on it? Are these common place as they look great and are cheaper.
Mr. Thorman, I appreciate your expertise. I just got thru dealing with my "potty" from hell... It took me 4 days to get that sucker to stop seeping water out of the tank. I guess I may be losing a bit of my 'grip' since I will be 80 this next Christmas...the LORD of Host's willing. Keep up the good videos. I watched a Moen video and they were using PEX and they cut the PEX in half and put a connector between the elbow and the valve. Looked like double the work and a possibility of doubling for a leak. On both sides of the valve. Keep up the good work.! Chevy
P.S.: I've only had to call a plumber once and boy did I get a $224.00 lesson in what to do the next time.! We all need to learn how to "Drain the Swamp."
Thanks Chevy, Glad to help. I think it is time to get the world handy again.
Mr. Thorman, thought you might be interested in this, however, you may have seen them in person. Rosey's Spitfire..
www.vintagewings.ca/VintageNews/Stories/tabid/116/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/594/Glorious-and-Free.aspx
The Best too you, Chevy
I love your stuff I was a contractor for 13 years. Have used poly b and crimpers I just bought the best crimper worked great. Did my house 23 years ago still good.
Thanks Tom, I am not sure why there are so many critics about pex. Anyone who actually uses it loves it. Guess it is just people don't like change.
I’m about to remodel my bathroom , switching from a tub to a shower so I value a lot your video including all the comments from other professionals, in my case I will not have an access panel, to monitor things and at my location I have a limited supply stores it’s down to Home Depot and Lowe’s and at this point just trying to figure out the most reliable method for shower valve installation, correct fittings and supply lines.
Great video.
If you have a Ferguson around they sell the pex ready valve. Cheers!
Home RenoVision DIY 👍
Thanks for the video enjoyed watching it so the PEX at 10:18 not all the way on the elbow would that cause a problem??
I agree. I saw that and looks way different then the rest. I don’t trust that fitting.
Thanks,Youexplained everything that i was wanting to know. This is the exact setup I am doing for a dog wash I have installed. Plumbing has always intimidated me but with pex and videos like yours I feel like I can do it .Thanks again!
U can do it. I can help!
OMG you have some PEX crimps that would never pass inspection. One right around 10:16 is really bad.
Could you bend the PEX instead of using those elbows? Less turbulence and fewer connections to worry about. They make the 90 degree brackets to hold the pex in a curve.
Hate to nickpit, but that cap was cold soldered. You don't just want the solder to bond to the copper cap and fill the gap, you need it to bond to the valve as well. Heat *both* the cap and the valve (more important as it's a huge heat sink) so the solder will flow and bond to the brass as well as to the copper cap. When both are properly heated, you don't need to "push" the solder into the joint. A tiny bit at the joint will immediately wick into the joint and wet completely.
Thanks
I'm replying to Johns comment to keep this discreet. He's right about the cap! I noticed quite a few teeth that will come to bite you later, Home Reno. I've been a Working, Licensed Plumber for 25 yrs. I give you an A for effort! Your Method needs a little work.
Your fittings weren't properly seated in the pipe. Rings not far enough on barbs. WHEN you have to repair. How will you access valve? You will have backing wood in your way. Screwed in!
@@baronratfish3865 ,right on the money
thanks for the info... I just finish remodeling my bathroom... without your videos I will be lost... please keep,up,the videos... Thanks again...
Great to hear Freddy. Glad to help. We have no intention of stopping the videos. Plenty more on the way. Every Saturday night.
Hi there, I just wanted thank you so much for a great video, I am not a plumber but I learned a lot of. Thanks and God bless, Mike. Toronto
Thanks Mike, just trying to help people get handy again.
Great videos. Thank you. I noticed you did not put in anti-hammering devices. The shower valve I just removed had them. Are they necessary?
I would have bought a valve for a shower.
No soldier involved.
Your videos are great, thanks.
Great video!! Are there any concerns with using pex for the shower connection and the tub connection? What I’m wondering is what’s called shower rise which is where you get shower water dripping/flowing when using the tub output which is obviously something you don’t want. I had read a Delta comment on Amazon that indicated the possible cause as being using pex for the tub section. Just wondering if you knew anything about this or had any experience with it. Thanks!!
Wow unreal how many haters out there, Thanks for a great video very helpful to those of us who are not perfect
There are actual haters here?
Still went way over my head but I found it interesting!
I can't overemphasis - watching you gives me confidence. Although I watched this one 3 times! Can you show going from copper to sharkbite. I imagine it would be simply to braze the fitting to existing copper. But would love to see that next time. Your sons are probably getting really good.
Love working with my bots. They are becoming quite the accomplished helpers.
When trying to hold a Pex ring in place, I take a pair of pliers and give the ring a slight squeeze and it will stay in place so you can use both hands to clamp it with the Pex tool. Just a slight squeeze, do not warp or bend it.
If you really wanted to get to it with an access panel from the back, you should've mounted the backer stud with screws from the back. Not as sturdy, but doesn't need to be and then you will be able to easily unscrew/dislodge the stud and get to the valve.
Before you dry wall do you check for leaks? Some of those fitting look like they could be pushed in more before you crimped them.
ALWAYS!!!!!! It is very good practice to check for leaks before closing. I also check all electrical and mechanical whenever possible.
that is nice man to sheer with us, how this works, I'm so thankful with! God bless
Thanks Rolando, I really appreciate your comment.
I'm glad that they now offer a PEX specific valve. No need to purchase/install adapters to allow for PEX supply lines.
No need to modify this valve to work with Sharkbite fittings. It is specifically designed to use PEX tubing with the end users choice of crimp rings. Use a different valve if the use of Sharkbite fittings are desired.
I much prefer to use the copper crimp rings over Sharkbite. 100's of connections with ZERO leaks. Sharkbites can fail over time, while I've yet to see a properly crimped PEX ring fail.
Sharkbite has a place but proper use of crimp rings will always be a better choice both performance and financially.
Well said. Many plumber friends have told me never to use Shark Bite fittings in a closed wall. The have an O-ring that can fail after awhile (Usually 10 years or more). They're fine for exposed plumbing where you can easily replace it later.
You like blue jazz too man?
Awesome👍
its easy to criticize job done by others.. I enjoyed your video and will be watching all others.. Thanks
Thanks Kodi, Although I don't mind critique, sometimes it just gets stupid.
Don't heat the little copper cap. Heat the massive valve. The cap will get hot too.
Thanks for the tip Alex.
alex tworkowski
You are correct sir. Heat where you want the copper to finish
Can you use the white pex pipe for the whole job or do you have to use red for hot and blue for cold
I’m looking to put in a dog wash, with spray head on a hose, plus would like dow spout to allow for filling buckets, etc. No tub, but will have shower pan with tile surround. Would I use one of these valves but not cover the down pipe with the brass cover? Is there a diverter in the shower body itself?
Thank you for not skipping any steps good job on explaining every thing so well.
Instead of putting in those extra fittings to turn a corner, you can simply bend the pex. You had the space for it. There are plastic brackets that hold the pex in the right shape and keeps the tubing from kinking by bending it too sharply. Fewer fittings means fewer chances for leaks and also money saved. I also hope you attached the tubing to the studs every so often to keep them from jumping around from water hammer and keep them centered in the wall and away from screws and nails.
No worries, I am running the water to a shower wand. These types if fixtures have more restriction in them then my corners do so it will not effect the performance.
Also, rotate your drop ear 90 deg clockwise and delete the 90 deg pex elbow above it for a shorter, cleaner run.
Thanks Zeke, good advice but on a shower wand I do not worry about flow since it is so restricted by the fixture anyway.
Agreed, however you have two extra clamp fittings which increase risk of leak....With pex I try to minimize the number of fitting connections.
I live in Indiana, USA. I live in a
Tri level built in 1960. My plumbing is metal pipe. Is there a fish bite, or an even better way to switch from 3/4” metal pipe to pex?
In a climate like Denver, would you use ABS or PVC for the DWV system in a basement bathroom under the slab? Or is it more important just to see what my Home Depot has more materials for?
match whatever you find there. cheers!
On your supply line fitting that you have attached solidly to you 2x4, you will probably have to connect a nipple pipe on it. This nipple pipe is threaded on both sides so how to prevent from screwing/unscrewing when you gonna attach something at the other end? Thanks in advance 😎
Hi Eric, the nipple pipe is threaded in opposite directions so you are always tightening both ends at the same time. Cheers!
By the way I recently subscribed to you channel and your video are really helpful. Thanks man.
Hello i am remodeling my shower/ tub and the new tub is 6" wider in an alcove intallation, now the shower head and valve is not going to be center whay should i do now? thanks
does the plaster guard indicate the the face of the tile or the face of the drywall
I was just wondering, if you aren't doing a tub faucet, could you just cap the tub drop. Literally the first thing you did.
You can leave in the rough valve as long as you simply turn off the valves to the right and left of the valve body. The mixing valve is only live when the hot and cold valves are live.
Just in case you ever have to do one without the trim kit.
that works great with this brand, however there are brands on the market that don't have the shutoffs.
Home RenoVision DIY Great point, I guess I've just been spoiled by Riobel/Riobel Pro!
Take a look for those Crimp-Rite rings, they're great!
so when u crimp it the go one should go but not all the way and the no go should not go ? does it matter from what angle? i did mine and in mine both no go and go - goes also is there any tester to check if these are not leaking thx
Love your videos but to correct your comment at 11:31... HOT water in toilets actually keeps them from sweating. Water condenses on a Cold surface. Toilets sweat from being filled with cold water not hot. Avoiding a sweating toilet is properly done by insulating the tank, or mixing hot water in the toilet supply.
Porcelain in a cold room sweats when the water in the tank is hot. I appreciate the advice though. In a warmer climate this works quite well.
I get it. It is the opposite where I am. If warm moist air is escaping at tank it would condense on the cool porcelain...
Spray Jones did the insulation. Thanks a great video.
Shark bite is for securing pex to pipe, so you could have added a pipe stub for the cap.
Totally could have used a 3/4 line. However this was a new feature with this company and as such I did not have any 3/4 line on me that day.
You are very talented.
Thanks for watching James
Is this the valve that RIOBEL suggests needs to rise 30" above valve, then come back down to the sliding wand?
Awesome video.
How do you determine the depth of the nipple pipe going to your hand held shower drop so as to make sure that it will be water tight and at the same time come out of the wall depth so the wall fixture escutcheon fitting will fit snug to the shower wall and not stick out?
the finishing trim is adjustable. The nipple comes in various lengths in increments of 1/2 inch. I usually set it back 1/2" from framed wall. This always works well
Where do you find GO & NOGO gauge? Also are these crimping tools diff for different PEX brass fittings?
The gauge comes with the tool when you buy it. And they work on all standard crimp rings at the same supplier.
You cant install pex piping to spout Pex pipe is slightly smaller than copper and when you run the tub spout it will also come out of the shower head
Has that first connection at the 90 above the valve started leaking yet? That copper ring was barely on the fitting
Nope. And it won't
only leaks i have dealt with are copper solider fittings the pros do go figure.
Every system has a potential for leaks. The important thing is to know how to fix the problem. No one is perfect and no product is perfect. The key is to be handy, not perfect.
Why did you choose that type of PEX? I've been reading that the uponor works forever and that metal crimp PEX will eventually cause the owner to have to re=plumb the entire install in a few years. Is that true ?
That's what you call job security!
Awesome Vid! Quick question; any problem/resistance with using a compression junction when putting together copper and pex vs soldering junction?
Outstanding videos, thank you!
Our pleasure Richard!
Does the pex not need to be strapped to the studs like traditional copper lines?
No. Not at this point. The pex is attached to the stud now from the back within 16 inches of the valve. And of course the valve is screwed to the wall.
Do you have a tutorial on how to convert from a 3 handle shower compressor/valve to a single using cpvc pipe, glue fittings and installing a pipe & shower arm so you have an actual shower head instead of a converter spout?
When you measure 2.5 inches back to put that cross piece in for the faucet is that a standard measurement or are they all different?? thanks
always check the manufacturers recommendation. They usually have a range that is acceptable. You also need to account for your own building materials and how thick they will be. The trick is to measure bask from what you expect the finished surface to be.
Don't use it. Go buy a good one. Getting replacement parts will be a bear. and if it fails you have to rip walls apart and replace the valve again.
Why we can't have all pex fittings for moen shower valves? I mean all 4 sides
What do you do if the valve fittings are grained?
I'm curious what is the purple stuff in the wall?
Hey Robert, thanks for asking. This client had a foundation leak issue and decided to go with a spray foam to double as a sealant.
very detailed great job!!!!
Thanks Clarence, Cheers!
man, you are a life saver~~~ thanks for the video
Great vid, my question is about the tub spout, can a Pex cap be used to block off the tub spout. Thanks
yes you can use a pex cap but never use pex going up to the shower head because the head will have flex in it and you dont want that even if you screw in the wing back 90
What is this finish valve and doen't it come with the kits? What should i ask for, just a Finish Valve?
There is a link to our shopify store where you can but this valve in the description below. Cheers!
Do any shower valve's have all PEX fittings so adaptors are not needed? Thank you!
Yes. There are plenty of manufacturers who sell this type of valve. You may find it hard to locate at the local building store however. I suggest you find a plumbing wholesaler. They usually sell to retail clients and can help you find what you are looking for. American standard, moen, delta, riobel, grohe, all have this valve for example.
What brand crimping tool are you using?
waterline. Cheers!
Do you have a video that shows the progress of this project after this point? I'd like to see how the slide bar was installed.
Also, have you ever worked with Moentrol 5210 (1/2" IPS) valve?
I'm planning to go from a 2 handle tub shower system to a 1 handle shower with slidebar system. You mentioned the push-fit connections would not fit this valve, but if I use some sort of coupling, would it work? I'm not comfortable sweating copper and don't have any of the crimping tools.
Can PEX be used as a supply line for a tub spout? (I'm planning to add a new tub/shower to another area of the house to replace a small shower stall).
Check out our reality renovision basement project.!
Are those 2x6 studs. Can’t really tell with the camera angle.
2x4
how much does it cost to have this done typically by a contractor?
Good job ........ you forgot to list the link for Pex Ring Crimper .........
itmis in my tools section on our Amazon page link in the description. Cheers!
Does it matter how deep you mount your drop ear in the walk?
The best option for a drop ear is to install it flush with the framing. That way you will never be disappointed. Cheers!
What is the advantage Pex pipe against copper tube.
The speed of installation for one thing. It is also much more resistant to breakage in cold weather. Outside of that I can't see any down side to it.
BENDS YOU CAN CUT PIPE AND GET IT TOGETHER WITHOUT A SLIP END. HARDEST PART OF PLUMBING WORKING WITH HARD PIPE AND THREADS
This video is good but missing some important elements for long lasting installations. PEX is a great product and has been in use in Europe for decades now. Note that the crimp on fittings can leak so it's best to use the solid copper fittings and the proper ring clamp tool for longer lasting and durable fittings. The up front cost is higher but for fittings that you want to be absolutely sure of for the long run, use the solid rings. Note also, all rings must be installed between 1/8 3mm and 1/4 inch 6mm from the end of the PEX pipe and the PEX pipe must be pushed all the way to the stop on the fitting. Rings must be 90 degrees square to the pipe fittings, no angle on the ring else water leaks under pressure. Adam Breen is obviously a Plumber and an expert. He has to meet certain requirements in his home country of Australia but the industry world wide is changing quite rapidly thanks to this product. I live in TEXAS where the plumbers opposed PEX for many years until thieves were stealing all the copper they installed overnight two and tree times. Plumbing companies were going broke reinstalling on new construction. The local codes were changed in most municipality's years ago. I have been remodeling bathrooms for years and always find charred wood in the walls where the plumbers installed copper. The new PEX installations have no charred wood. Professional plumbers are done with the job in an hour and I don't have to worry about slow smoldering wood erupting into a fire after the end of the day, burning my clients homes down after the workers have left for the day. If the residents are living in the home, water service can be back on in as little as 15 minutes once the valves are installed. Thousands of plumbers are using this product. When installed properly, it's great. Watch several different sources on you tube though. Jeff did a good job putting this together and video recording but did not mention the critical distances and the importance of using a proper tool and the use of the go no-go gauge to verify the fitting installation. Watch others, learn and DO IT YOURSELF when you feel confident.
Thanks Vince, However I did use the go no go gauge and I also used the proper solid rings available at the local hardware store. I am only going to teach homeowners how to use products they can get easily without going to the professional distribution stores.
This product is very good and should last the test of time.
I didn’t watch every second of video but what do u do if you use the test tool and it doesn’t fit? Do you simply crimp it again until it fits or does it have to be cut and replaced with new ring?
exactly!
You adjust your crimper and re-crimp.
What's the difference between pet and copper tubing?
Pex is more resistant to breaks from freezing cheaper and installs in less than half the time.
You brushed the inside of the cap, and fluxed it, but you did nothing to the brass valve! That was a terrible sweat joint. And finally, always heat the heavier metal, in this case, the valve, and not the copper fitting.
Doesn't really matter how well the ring is crimped when its that far off the actual fitting.
Have seen a few of your vids now, seems like you like the type B and C pex, have you had to come back and fix any leaking issues? How much time has it been since your first crimp pex install? Thanks for the help!
Just showing what the hardware stores are stocking. This channel is designed for homeowners .
Asking because I'm getting ready to remodel my bathrooms. Crimp style seems easier to work with than the type A pex, hence my question. Thanks again for the vids.
A shower valve installed with pex. I knew one day I would see this. I just knew it. Probably because of all the people stealing copper pipe. Maybe this is a good thing. If a professional is doing the work it should be fine,right?
Most people have no clue how to solder anyway. So, one day these will just be shark bite valves with no more pesky crimp rings. The valve body will be plastic with some brass inserts built in.
I wouldn't expect to see the valve body change from brass unless you are shopping at the local building stores. They like to sell junk.
My value stems are old and the converter doesn't work because the pipe and showerhead etc were removed. I'm tired of the 3 handle system and using the attachment to the spout.
Valve *
Hey....I'm in the process of changing a shower valve in a wall. I soldered the elbows but got incredible bubbles all around. I'm afraid its not done properly. How can I ck this with the water off and even more so, how can I remove the clumps?? I'm confused as I heated awhile to make sure hot enough but this is what I kept getting ....HELP
Please refer to my other comments you left on the other videos. Cheers!
I’m installing my bathtub in a couple weeks and I’m really nervous about using PEX because I’ve been told that if I were to ever have a rodent problem they will eat right thru the pipe. I’ve also been told not to us shark bites because they will fail. I’m not comfortable sweating copper pipe but that seems to be the way to go. 🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
If you are not comfortable with sweating copper, go down to your home store, grab a few pieces of copper, a few male & female end pieces you can attach to your water hose, and practice sweating some joints together. Once done, connect it to the hose, and turn it on. Repeat until you have no leaks. In reality, understanding how to sweat copper, is different than technique. Once you have technique, piece of cake. Just don't overheat the copper, and make sure you use plenty of flux.
How do you know the depth to install the shower valve at? I'm installing a valve in a standing shower kit and this is the part that has me stumped.
The instructions that came with the valve will have that information in them. each make is different.
There's enough room for play with your cover plate and screws (trim cover) unless you have a really deep existing tiled wall
Is the first time I find on the web that the supply lines come to the mixing valve from above. Is that ok? is there any reason why 99.9% of the people install the supply lines from bellow? I'm asking because I planning my diy installation and looks convenient form me.
Hi Daniel. This bathroom was built in a basement and the water supply was in the ceiling. As such it is very convenient to tee off and just drop down a line.
instead of sweating on a cap crimp on a small piece of pex and cap with a sharkbite cap one ring and 3inches of pex might be 30 cents.... then they dont have to re manufacture
Sorry Johnny the sweat cap was necessary. That one part of the valve cannot receive a crimp or a shark bite. Sometimes you need to use a torch.
There is nothing on UA-cam about a shower bath. They're all either a shower or a bath. How do you put a diverter valve into this?? So you can change between the shower and bath???? I can't find anything. This is a great video, but will this valve work for the bath as well as the shower simutaniously and allow the ability to change between one or the other? I can't find anything on this....
There are 2 kinds of diverter. One where you pull on the spout to change the direction of the water and the other is in the handle. Whichever one you choose you run the plumbing the same. How it functions is a matter of the fixture not the plumbing.
Can you do a video on how to install a water heater?
Should be interesting. I will be doing one on an On Demand system soon.
All you have to do is close one of the stops to prevent the water from mixing....
True if the valve you are installing has the stops.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Stops or valves are required whether they they come installed w/ the rough in valve body or not...all fixtures require shut off valves...
what are the measurements you are using ??
eyeball!
SHARK BITE PEX ROUND COPPER CRIMPER WORTH BUYING. PLASTIC CRIMP FITTINGS OR METAL? 5 PACK Ts $6.60 10 pack copper $25 for ts
There are a lot of good systems out there. If you are going to do a lot of work then buy tools otherwise rent what is necessary.
You don't use hammer arrestors?
Not with pex.Water hammering is a copper problem.
Water hammer is NOT limited to any particular type of piping. It is a fluid flow/velocity issue which must be considered during piping system design and properly compensated for. Read about Water Hammer on Wikipedia (en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_hammer) or elsewhere.
Where can i find this part?
The elbow going to the sprayer is not on all the way, it's to low.
It actually has 3 places to crimp. And is working fine. That tool does not make it easy!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY used a pair of pliers to compress the ring before you put the crimpers, it will help to keep ring in place
And then, after you put the wall and tile on, how (when valve needs replacement) will you replace the valve with that clamping tool using the small hole in the tile? You will need to take the tiles out to make enough room to perform the job resulting in re-construction the half of the bathroom. You guys think only about your convenience to install it when there's no walls, creating the problem for the house owner when the valve needs to be replaced, making such minor replacement to be a big deal...
Why did you decide to set the shower head on the side can we set on the top too
This shower finishes with a slide bar with a hand held shower wand on a 5 ft hose. The bar installs in the center.
Home RenoVision DIY oh ok 👍🏼 thanks sr good video
Always here to help Ricardo A
Where the heck can I buy this specific rough in valve? It's one of the few that I've seen PEX on all of the ports
Are you still provide feedback on DIY for plumbing?
I recognize I may be asking a question that could be considered similar to discussing politics at the Thanksgiving dinner table.....
I've seen your prior video that included the use of clamp style PEX rings in comparison to the crimp style in this video. Do you have a personal preference and why?
The previous video was made to show how to use the available crimp system being sold at the box store for a reasonable price. The new video shows the better system that is now available for $100.00.
There are better systems than this on the market but I try to show videos based on reasonably priced tools for the homeowner.
if the crimp is the wrong size, how do I remove it
cut it out and use a coupling.
Made the mistake of thinking I could use 1\2 pex on all 4 sides, my Moen valve came with all 4 sides as a 1\2 male thread.