I just did this and it was easy thanks to the video, but I had a lift . took me around 5 hours. get a flexible ratchet extention for the top bolt. (i used flexible 1/4" drive socket though took kinda long but had to remove the hose that is in the way made it easier) Also a 10mm works for all 3 of the inverted hex bolts. I bought my pierburg for $270 on ebay and $50 wahler/behr thermostat on amazon. Use a circular motion of force when re-installingthe hoses that have the metal wire clip, you'll know it's seated correctly when its all "snapped" in. if you dont it will eventually spray out as happened to me. I used a drill and adapter to take off and on all the 8mm bolts for the plastic aero paneling cause im lazy. I bled my system a few times, had lots of air, while connected to a batter charger. Also, the pierburg comes with the bolts, dont buy them extra. GL all!
Thanks for sharing.......I did this 2 weeks ago to my wife's e91. You made it look easy and this helped a lot & made it easier for me. Because I did not have a lift and did it on my back, I removed the fan and it gave more working room and more visibility. The top bolt on the water pump is the most difficult to remove and put back in. I found it is easier to use a 1/4 ratchet with an extension, then a universal joint, then the 1/4 to 3/8 adapter to the 3/8 e12 socket. It made it easier to reach the top bolt in the tight space. You need the flex driver with the 6mm for the hose clamps. It is 2008 and it had 168k with the original pump and thermostat. It is not a fun job. I had to work in 1 to 2 hrs shifts and walk way because it can be frustrating. My Indy wanted $1100 to do this job and the "Stealer" wanted to $2200. Crazy. Spent $330 on the OEM Pump, Thermostat and BMW Coolant. Spent another $120 some tools, clamps and two upper hoses that disintegrated when removing the fan. Spent about $450 total.
The video was a tremendous help, but what really sealed the deal, the icing on the cake was your comments about that top bolt & using a 1/4" drive ratchet & then the adapter to 3/8" drive. Thanks.
This job was hell on a 2007 e90 328xi. The sub frame on the 4wd is totally different and you can't get to any of the parts with out great effort. All hoses were stuck on and also took a great deal of time to get off. Combine that with poor manuals from all sources and no direct comparison vids and it's typical BMW take forever the first time you do that repair. Tips, remove the right front wheel, remove aluminum stiffener, don't attempt to remove radiator as some threads recommend. Oh, don't forget to disconnect the battery if you don't finish the job in a day as having the hood up causes some weird parasitic draw. Some of the plastic hoses were brittle and cracked. Anyway, this is one of the many BMW projects that could have been made 100 Times simpler with a specific manual. Even the Bentley manual is vague and gets the bleed procedure wrong.
This video helped me on my e92. This is a lift job if you can get one. A 3/8 fits those e12 bolts perfect. I used the new pump to figure the angle and ujoint set up for the top bolt. I have turbos and the continent vdo pump was correct.
finished in about 7 hours and was cursing the whole time under the car. the bolt behind the pump is hell to get. and my thermostat hoses were like welded to its inserts. found it was the original pump from 2007 with 133k mi on it! . car feels very happy afterwords! fuck you for having a lift ;) waiting for the next e30 update. ps i love how you were ripping the m3 manual swap in limp mode. im sure the engineers were smiling
Depends on which Japanese cars. I just replaced water pump-thermostat-belt on 8th-gen civic with 1.8L engine and it took me about an hour including everything. I didn't even have any issue and I just thought it would be good to do it before they fail( I replaced them for the first time at 208k miles, I have seen original pumps go pass 250k miles). I have been thinking about getting a 2011 BMW 328i and we have 20 miles one-way commute in traffic every day. It might not worth getting one if pumps only last 80k miles or so.
I plan on doing this DIY soon! I dont got a lift sadly just gonna have to jack up the car and work on my back :/ ... looks like a fairly easy job though
Just bought a kit for my E70 2011... car overheated last week. Got the same OE thermostat as you do but my original water pump is Continental. The new one eventhough when I ordered it was listed as Pierburg, but it was Continental that came in the shipment.
+Willy Pitty continental is for the turbo engines. pierburg is normally asiprated engines. there are at least three different water pumps. see my brand new X1 water pump video to see if thats the same pump you have
Good to know!!! any tip on getting the parts out of the engine compartment? I sent a good part of the today working on it, really got stuck at getting the old parts out of there and I say prob getting the new parts into the lower engine area...
+Willy Pitty again, watch the X1 water pump video I posted yesterday in my channel. explains the all wheel drive turbo process better than this video does.
Your videos are fantastic... thanks for sharing your knowledge. I've got your car - '07 E91 sport package, no iDrive, manual transmission. It's got 102k miles and it's original water pump. If this was your car, would you proactively replace the water pump and thermostat? I'm guessing yes, but figured I'd ask.
Ovalbore I figured I was living on borrowed time. 45k miles on a pump.... BMW ought to be ashamed to read that. Our N54 equipped x5 puked up its pump at 61k miles. That's a really short life. Bad design or weight savings taken too far?
thats a part that would be difficult to bulletproof. There isn't one failure mode either. Its an efficiency measure, really not a big deal, just add it to the maintenance docket.
can i use the bleed procedure to diagnose the car for over heating . how can i diagnose the over heating problem to see if i just need a pump and thermostat or just a sensor? we have a 2010 335i USA twin turbo 100k
@@OvalboreCars stop being rude and be helpful. Not everyone that has a BMW is rich. I like to make educated decisions when. It comes to auto repairs instead of just throwing money at things. I have also found the performing troubleshooting is a learning opportunity for me to better understand how things work.
This was an excellent,detailed video.I have an E91 N57 TYPE 2 engine and the water pump is some what different to the one you have shown.Mine has a composite pulley attached to it and this broke.I just want a metal pulley.Would you please point me in the direction where I can get one.Many Thanks
Good morning -- the Diesels are quite different, and I love that the waterpumps are mechanical. Unfortunately after 2006, BMW stopped making any aluminum water pump pulley. your best bet is trying to find a company that makes a full aluminum underdrive set and buying that.
Hello how are you doing? Very good video. I ask you, I did the test but it doesn't work for me, the mechanic tells me that the pump burned (for the second time), I changed it a little over 1 year ago, it has not even traveled 20,000 km with that pump. Can you think what else could it be? The car heats up and I found that I had blown the lid off the water reservoir. I appreciate any comments. It's a 2005 BMW 330i E90 N52
did you use a pierburg pump? it's common for counterfeit pumps to burnout almost immediately. it might have burned out the PWM driver in your DME if so.
@@OvalboreCars If I used Pierburg from Germany, how strange, it is driving me crazy. I'm going to buy a new one, before, could you explain to me if it doesn't bother you, what is the PWM and DME controller, where do I see it? thank you again
Thanks for the Video, My 06 E90 325i keep throwing overheating symbols, I tried the trick to see if the water pump would run, and it doesn't, could this be my issue? Thanks
Hi. Appreciate you taking time and making this video. I'm about to purchase 2008 e92 328i with 81k miles. I'm already looking up all possible failures on the car. I have noticed that water pump is very common. Hope the car doesn't crap out on me as I'm gonna be 5 hours away from home. How much does a water pump and thermostat cost? I quickly looked it up online and seems like the parts alone cost upward of 700$+ I've never had a BMW but I'm lusting over 328i coupe so that's what I'm gonna get. I am pretty mechanically inclined. Do you think I'd be able to do this job? The hardest repair I've done in a car is replacing clutch on my friends Miata. Thanks for any insight you can give me.
hey -- you should be ok, just keep your driving moderate. I bought my E91 with 79k on it and drove it 1200 miles home to do the water pump. I've seen some go longer though. my installed cost for OEM water pump and thermostats are as follows: RWD N51/N52: $550 AWD N51/N52: $600 RWD N54/N55: $650 AWD N54/N55: $700 does not include four-zone climate vehicles.
Your video helped me do what I thought was a very difficult task. Never having worked on a German car before, this was a task. I am not sure how to get the splash guards back on correctly now. lol One piece that is curved in the front, looks aerodynamic looks like it would go by the bumber. Not sure where it goes. Can you help?
Great video thanks. My 2009 e90 328i manual sedan is getting luke warm heat. I've ruled out coolant level and thermostat as the culprit. Do you happen to know if the heater core input\output lines can be accessed from the top if the air box is removed?
sounds like heater valve or thermostat. check CLT engine running. so many MAP controlled things on that car. I've never seen a late model BMW heater core plugged. the blue coolant is excellent, even if neglected for more than 10 years.
Thanks for the quick responce. I looked at the 2009 e90 hose parts diagram and didn't see a heater control valve. I know the e46 and e39 had them. I ruled out the thermostat being stuck open by unlocking the engine temp and driving on a 50 degree day with the heat full on. The temp runs normal around 90C (displayed in C and not F). My car has 65000 miles so I am also somewhat perplexed as to why the heater core would be blocked on a low mile late model. interestingly, I called the local BMW service manager and he said they have done four this year and some others had the same issue on the forums. I'd like to reverse flush just to rule out any block sand casting or other debris.
So i thought that when the bleed procedure is initiated by stepping on the accelerator for 10 seconds, that the actual bleed procedure runs for 12 minutes (cycling on and off). i think in the video you said 1 to 1.5 minutes.
ehh i think my 328i water pump is broken... Just replaced radiator, main housing gasket... it was overheating and one of the coolant valves burst popped, its def the water pump right?
Thanks brah, was not sure if the sway bar would drop. Thanks for clarifying that it does not matter. I have an 06 325xi 153,000 and it runs strong however I believe the water pump is a ticking time bomb lol. Thks...
+Frank Perez watch my BMW X1 video. it's much more similar to your car than my wagon here due to AWD (makes the job a TON harder). still doable on ramps, getting the pump out between the sway bar and fan shroud is a PITA on the AWD cars. and yeah, thats a time bomb.
KeystrokeCowboy original was a Pierburg part, new one is a Wahler. just a difference in OEM. you replace it because it's cheap and easy to get to. If you do JUST the pump and the thermostat goes out 10,000 miles later, you have to remove the pump to change out the thermostat. not required but VERY stupid to not do it.
+Camper1234599 +KeystrokeCowboy ...and to other posters who read this in the future - the water pump gets blamed for failing a lot...but I suspect that the thermostat is often the undiagnosed culprit. Here is an easy test to suggest which is failing. This test is not perfect, but will generate some useful info. Since the pump is $250-$500 depending on where you get it...I think this is worth the effort. That is especially true if your pump has only 50k miles on it, or you are on a tight budget. Use your own judgment. 1. Run the coolant purge cycle. Google it...very easy and NO risk to the engine or system. During the purge, open the hood and listen for the pump to see if it is running. It will cycle on and off. this is normal. Don't just listen "for" the pump...listen TO the pump. Is it straining, is the speed irregular or is it making weird squealing noises, or just plain not running? Those are your clues. It is not a Saturn 5 engine...it is a little electric motor turning a turbine blade which looks a lot like a turbocharger intake blade...o.k? 2. If it IS running, step two is start your engine and turn on your heater on high/max temperature. With the car warming up, sit in the car and note if the heater is actually getting hot. if the heater gets hot and STAYS hot, you know your water pump is at some level circulating coolant. This is because the heater core feed bypasses the thermostat. A stuck thermostat keeps the coolant from circulating coolant to the block...but NOT the heater core. Got it? SOMETHING must be pushing that hot coolant to the core? that "something" is your water pump, which is at some level circulating coolant, no matter what the engine computer is telling you. IF, however, the pump is bad then the heater won't be hot either, because NO coolant is circulating. Don't run the car very long...just long enough to determine if the heater stays hot. Should be evident well before the engine gives you an overheat warning. Yes, it is possible for a pump to run but not run fast enough to circulate coolant. The way to tell is how fast does your engine overheat? Reach down and feel the lower radiator hose. If it is stone cold, suspect the thermostat. If it is lukewarm, suspect the pump is not keeping up. If the car overheats in only a mile or two, suspect the thermostat...if it only overheats on hotter days, suspect the pump can't keep up...use common sense. Anyway, the test above would SUGGEST (not prove) that the thermostat is stuck. Now you have a decision, but you have some info too. If you have the bucks, replace the pump...if you are on a budget, and the signs indicate it, try replacing the thermostat first - even though the job is a bit of a chore since you must remove and reinstall what may be a defective water pump. re: Thermostats. Note that Gates sells this stat "lifetime warranty" for about a hundred bucks, but what they sell is (literally) sourced from the same folks as the cheaper MotoRad unit...and probably the Hella unit as well, which both sell for 30-50 bucks LESS. I have a Gates unit in front of me now, and someone at Gates has carefully removed all Hella p/n and casting marks with a die grinder to eliminate the OEM sourcing info! Boy, that's taking it a bit far, I'd say! FYI, re: "Plastic? What?" Yep, ALL of the replacement units are plastic, and in this case this is GOOD, because the aluminum OEM units are corroding and failing. That's why they went with plastic. Aluminum is not always superior. re: Pumps. Not all BMW electric pumps are the same quality - though the fit is more or less "universal" for the N52 and other sixes. There are at least three iterations of the so-called "Standard" BMW electric pump, all between 2007-2009. After 2009, it appears that they settled on a design. IMPORTANT: Make sure you DOUBLE CHECK the p/n on your pump to make sure you buy the latest iteration. They are externally the same, but internally improved. Clearly, BMW had problems with the first two iterations of the pump. re: Pump sources. Check eBay for pumps. You will find a wide range of prices, currently from just under 200 to sky's the limit. IMO, avoid the Chinese pumps. (the $200 pump). I also personally laugh at the idea that one "must use" a pump from the BMW dealership. If they are so great, why have so many failed? I deliberately chose NOT to use a dealership pump on my repair, because the first one they sold me (...with the car) failed in 64k miles! Why would I choose the same poor performing part again? Get the latest version of a German made pump - you'll be fine. re: Coolant. Note you can use Zerex G-05 rated coolant if your BMW dealership isn't close by. 50/50 with distilled water. G-05 is low silicate/low phosphate, and is IMO fine for BMW. Also, whatever way you go, REPLACE YOUR COOLANT. IIRC, it's 8.4 qt. on an N52. Before you just dump in some new G-05, FIRST run the aforementioned purge sequence 3 times with full distilled water, re-draining the radiator each time. N52 doesn't have a block drain that I can find...and if it is there, it is a bear to get to without a lift. Hence the purge. Three times will get you there. 4 gallons of distilled water...cheap insurance. FYI, after the purge, there will still be about twoish quarts left in the block. Pour in 1 gallon of FULL STERNGTH G-05, and then top off with distilled. That'll be about 50/50...give or take. (1 gal G-05 full strength plus 4.4 quarts of distilled...ish) re: Bolts. Remember, for your installation, the aluminum bolts on the water pump must be replaced with new ones. IF you are just testing and taking the pump out to get to the thermostat, I suppose you could reuse the old bolts...but IMO don't push it. They will fail after a couple installations, and will break off in the bosses. You really don't want that. Bolt sets are ten bucks...ish. Even on a budget, I'd say get two sets of bolts if you are trying to reuse the old water pump. Just not worth the headache, IMO. Hope these tips help some of you DIY'ers. Use your own discretion and common sense as a DIY mechanic. If any of the above doesn't make sense, take it to a dealer. Oh, and those who disagree with my comments above - fine to correct with facts, but PLEASE don't bother to flame me with dire warnings about "only BMW coolant" or "if you can't afford to blindly replace with a new pump, you can't afford a BMW", etc. You're entitled to your opinion, and I mine...but I'm not interested in arguing the point. These are cars, and many of them are now bought second hand by regular people who really CAN'T afford to toss a perfectly good five hundred dollar water pump in the garbage, or who choose NOT to give in to ignorance and BMW superstition from UA-cam / Bimmer forums, etc. Use common sense. Good luck.
+Camper1234599 Thanks for prompt reply, pretty handy with tools, never done this job before. Have lifts and all tools, going to do job at Navy auto hobby shop. One auto shop agree to do just the labor for $359.00 I will be supplying parts and coolant. Another wanted $888.00 with parts. Your thoughts?? Thank you.
I had a water pump and thermostat replacement done less than 3 months ago, the pump gave. out already again, im changing it out again. don't think the thermostat is out though, should i change it out anyways too?
Hi James My name is tomás I'm from chile , . The last week I had problem with the water pump. I have BMW 325I touring 2008 I dont know what is the specific parts to replace it. Did you know how is the specific serial number for this model. thanks for your help.
question i just did my head gasket like 2 months ago and now my car is overheating, i did smell coolant in the air vent but the car is not mixing coolant with oil. the smoke from the muffles is normal. i am assuming its the water pump and thermostat and the heater blows cold air not hot.bought the car with 108k just hit 120k. Do u think its the water pump as well?
if you're getting the sailboat on your gauge cluster, you have issues. smoke from exhaust isn't normal unless its burning off after the head gasket change still..
halo my name ist ivo. I did evereting that that video seat i by two pomps pierburg 2018 but non one works. are the pamps broken or i need to by a special pomp? I put the old pump back and it works, but the new pomp dasnt work. pleas help me. Thank zou
I can't get the first hose from the water pump to the thermostat off. Can I take off the water pump with the hoses still attached to get a better grip of the hose to disconnect it?
+ronkee24 I don't know if there's clearance to remove the other hoses, or squeeze the pump and thermostat out together. sounds fishy that that intermediate hose won't come off.
try getting a pick underneath the lip of the hose and work your way around it while pulling. if you can get one side off, twisting and prying should get it off. the hose is under $10 new, I would strongly recommend changing it if I were in your shoes.
+Camper1234599 Thanks for the advice. I finally got. the water pump out. I also wanted to know where I could find a replacement piece for the rubber noise dampener?
I'm driving an e90 2006 model, it overheat and i replaced waterpump and thermostart, but the car is still overheating, i tryed to check the fuses but i don't know where is the fuse for the waterpump can you help to find the fuse box in the engine compartment
Alfred Maebela either you have bad pins in the connector on the pump, the pump driver is fried in the engine computer, you blew your head gasket or..? Either way, you need a dealer.
Error code on check engine reads faulty thermostat.... never had overheating issues though??? Problem I am having though is every acceleration theres a baaaad shake almost makes it not accelerate is this the thermo or water pump at fault here? Thanks in advance
What did you do to resolve your issue. My car 2008 328i shaked occasionally along with some type of fault symbol on the display but it would go away minutes later. that continued for over a year and a half...now I'm over heating with smoke from radiator. Must be my water pump and thermostat?!?!
for the N54/N55 you want the VDO/Continental pump, yes. the Behr, Wahler, Motorad, Beck/Arnley, Stant thermostats are excellent. stuff like Koolman is junk.
no. AWD cars are completely different from the B pillar forward. See my X1 water pump video for something a little closer to your car.. and then buy a RWD car next time
Hi I have a e90 2007 318 and the heaters are only blowing out warm air for a matter of 2 minutes then going cold again I've had it plugged in and it say faulty auxiliary water pump is this this part also I hear a clicking noise when I try to self bleed it but no water is circulating can anyone help please
i have a 2007 bmw 328i and i think my electric water pump is out cuz the car keeps overheating on me ? it has plenty of coolant would this be able to help me
Ovalbore all happened last week, the blower motor wires melted kill the battery, I replaced the battery And the blower was blowing even if the car is off then i saw melted wires
all the more reason to take it in. it is going to need some professional help. theres a 40A mega fuse for these in the glove box, but you roasted your wiring. Blower motor wiring is a recall item.. you MIGHT be able to get a BMW dealer to good faith your wiring harness.
they all are now. only some early 2007s, and 2006s had aluminum housings. I've never seen one of these plastic ones fail externally before, they're solid.
oh, you mean modern engines? Yes. even the new GM 4 cylinder silverado engine runs an electric water pump. these guys are ahead of the curve. It'd be fabulous if they just put it in the maintenance guide as an 80,000 mile replacement item. they're silly reliable and efficient through that usable life
again, this is not even remotely close to a 335i. the under bracing is irrelevant to the job itself. turbo cars have a completely different pump setup and are much, much more difficult. See my X1 pump replacement video for a closer analog. This has nothing to do with your car being an E93 and everything to do with the fact you're looking at the wrong engine for a DIY.
I have a e93 with N53 engine and it looks totally different. Sitting here got many things off and now the steering gear is in front of the pump.. the video can’t be used for the E93. Don’t know what to do next now… thing I’m gonna assemble it back together and drive to a mechanic
I just did this and it was easy thanks to the video, but I had a lift . took me around 5 hours. get a flexible ratchet extention for the top bolt. (i used flexible 1/4" drive socket though took kinda long but had to remove the hose that is in the way made it easier) Also a 10mm works for all 3 of the inverted hex bolts. I bought my pierburg for $270 on ebay and $50 wahler/behr thermostat on amazon. Use a circular motion of force when re-installingthe hoses that have the metal wire clip, you'll know it's seated correctly when its all "snapped" in. if you dont it will eventually spray out as happened to me. I used a drill and adapter to take off and on all the 8mm bolts for the plastic aero paneling cause im lazy. I bled my system a few times, had lots of air, while connected to a batter charger. Also, the pierburg comes with the bolts, dont buy them extra. GL all!
Did this yesterday on my 2007 328i ..... great video man . Took my about 2 1/2 hours . This step by step guide is very useful. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Glad it helped!
2.5 hrs....exactly wut I wanted to hear......so next time it will only b a 1hour job ???
Thanks for sharing.......I did this 2 weeks ago to my wife's e91. You made it look easy and this helped a lot & made it easier for me. Because I did not have a lift and did it on my back, I removed the fan and it gave more working room and more visibility. The top bolt on the water pump is the most difficult to remove and put back in. I found it is easier to use a 1/4 ratchet with an extension, then a universal joint, then the 1/4 to 3/8 adapter to the 3/8 e12 socket. It made it easier to reach the top bolt in the tight space. You need the flex driver with the 6mm for the hose clamps. It is 2008 and it had 168k with the original pump and thermostat. It is not a fun job. I had to work in 1 to 2 hrs shifts and walk way because it can be frustrating. My Indy wanted $1100 to do this job and the "Stealer" wanted to $2200. Crazy. Spent $330 on the OEM Pump, Thermostat and BMW Coolant. Spent another $120 some tools, clamps and two upper hoses that disintegrated when removing the fan. Spent about $450 total.
How long did it take you in total?
Dan Truong mine took about 6 hours
The video was a tremendous help, but what really sealed the deal, the icing on the cake was your comments about that top bolt & using a 1/4" drive ratchet & then the adapter to 3/8" drive. Thanks.
About to do this on a 2012 328i coupe, looks easy enough, l definitely thanks for the tips! Will get back to you when done tomorrow
This job was hell on a 2007 e90 328xi. The sub frame on the 4wd is totally different and you can't get to any of the parts with out great effort. All hoses were stuck on and also took a great deal of time to get off. Combine that with poor manuals from all sources and no direct comparison vids and it's typical BMW take forever the first time you do that repair. Tips, remove the right front wheel, remove aluminum stiffener, don't attempt to remove radiator as some threads recommend. Oh, don't forget to disconnect the battery if you don't finish the job in a day as having the hood up causes some weird parasitic draw. Some of the plastic hoses were brittle and cracked. Anyway, this is one of the many BMW projects that could have been made 100 Times simpler with a specific manual. Even the Bentley manual is vague and gets the bleed procedure wrong.
Just wanted to say thank you thank you thank you! That third bolt had me stumped until I came across your video. I was about to give up.
haha, never give up! glad it helped
this maybe the best descriptive do it yourself I've seen
+gnicevids thanks man! I love feedback, especially when positive ;)
No problem just keep them coming
+gnicevids I do them every time I can.
This video helped me on my e92. This is a lift job if you can get one. A 3/8 fits those e12 bolts perfect. I used the new pump to figure the angle and ujoint set up for the top bolt. I have turbos and the continent vdo pump was correct.
finished in about 7 hours and was cursing the whole time under the car. the bolt behind the pump is hell to get. and my thermostat hoses were like welded to its inserts. found it was the original pump from 2007 with 133k mi on it! . car feels very happy afterwords! fuck you for having a lift ;) waiting for the next e30 update. ps i love how you were ripping the m3 manual swap in limp mode. im sure the engineers were smiling
Shows once again how much easier BMW'S are (for the most part) to work on versus Japanese cars. Great video.
there's give and take certainly. this wasn't TOO bad
Depends on which Japanese cars. I just replaced water pump-thermostat-belt on 8th-gen civic with 1.8L engine and it took me about an hour including everything. I didn't even have any issue and I just thought it would be good to do it before they fail( I replaced them for the first time at 208k miles, I have seen original pumps go pass 250k miles). I have been thinking about getting a 2011 BMW 328i and we have 20 miles one-way commute in traffic every day. It might not worth getting one if pumps only last 80k miles or so.
This video just saved the day lol thanks for being so descriptive man. No other videos are this good at explaining things while actually filming 👍
thanks dude! Luckily that's just how I operate.
I've been under cars explaining things to clients for years, so I just do the same to the camera!
Clicked on your video and recognized your voice right away. Thanks for the help!
haha yup
im doing my pump and thermostat tomorrow using this as my guide. always great content thanks for it!
Hope it goes well!
I plan on doing this DIY soon! I dont got a lift sadly just gonna have to jack up the car and work on my back :/ ... looks like a fairly easy job though
Just bought a kit for my E70 2011... car overheated last week. Got the same OE thermostat as you do but my original water pump is Continental. The new one eventhough when I ordered it was listed as Pierburg, but it was Continental that came in the shipment.
+Willy Pitty continental is for the turbo engines. pierburg is normally asiprated engines. there are at least three different water pumps. see my brand new X1 water pump video to see if thats the same pump you have
Good to know!!! any tip on getting the parts out of the engine compartment? I sent a good part of the today working on it, really got stuck at getting the old parts out of there and I say prob getting the new parts into the lower engine area...
+Willy Pitty again, watch the X1 water pump video I posted yesterday in my channel. explains the all wheel drive turbo process better than this video does.
Will do.... Thanks!
Where has this been my whole life
Lol probably uploaded and sitting.. I did this ages ago
Your videos are fantastic... thanks for sharing your knowledge. I've got your car - '07 E91 sport package, no iDrive, manual transmission. It's got 102k miles and it's original water pump. If this was your car, would you proactively replace the water pump and thermostat? I'm guessing yes, but figured I'd ask.
I would never run an N52 pump past 80,000 miles or an N54 pump past 45,000 miles.
Ovalbore I figured I was living on borrowed time. 45k miles on a pump.... BMW ought to be ashamed to read that. Our N54 equipped x5 puked up its pump at 61k miles. That's a really short life. Bad design or weight savings taken too far?
thats a part that would be difficult to bulletproof. There isn't one failure mode either.
Its an efficiency measure, really not a big deal, just add it to the maintenance docket.
Thanks very easy to follow good job. 👍🏼
glad it helped you do the WP!
can i use the bleed procedure to diagnose the car for over heating . how can i diagnose the over heating problem to see if i just need a pump and thermostat or just a sensor? we have a 2010 335i USA twin turbo 100k
just stop being cheap and replace the stuff.
@@OvalboreCars stop being rude and be helpful. Not everyone that has a BMW is rich. I like to make educated decisions when. It comes to auto repairs instead of just throwing money at things. I have also found the performing troubleshooting is a learning opportunity for me to better understand how things work.
What symptoms did you get to tell you that you had a water pump issue was it the speed or did you monitor that did you have a leak did it overheat
its preventative maintenance because of the fact they fail with no warning.
Excellent video!!! Thanks for sharing!!!
Do you have a video showing the process to determine the pump has to be replaced?!?
Thanks!!!
the pump has a date stamped on it, and also is aluminum so usually pretty easy to tell if it 'looks' old or not in most cases too.
very helpful，thx from china.
This was an excellent,detailed video.I have an E91 N57 TYPE 2 engine and the water pump is some what different to the one you have shown.Mine has a composite pulley attached to it and this broke.I just want a metal pulley.Would you please point me in the direction where I can get one.Many Thanks
Good morning -- the Diesels are quite different, and I love that the waterpumps are mechanical. Unfortunately after 2006, BMW stopped making any aluminum water pump pulley. your best bet is trying to find a company that makes a full aluminum underdrive set and buying that.
Hello how are you doing? Very good video. I ask you, I did the test but it doesn't work for me, the mechanic tells me that the pump burned (for the second time), I changed it a little over 1 year ago, it has not even traveled 20,000 km with that pump. Can you think what else could it be? The car heats up and I found that I had blown the lid off the water reservoir. I appreciate any comments. It's a 2005 BMW 330i E90 N52
did you use a pierburg pump? it's common for counterfeit pumps to burnout almost immediately. it might have burned out the PWM driver in your DME if so.
@@OvalboreCars If I used Pierburg from Germany, how strange, it is driving me crazy. I'm going to buy a new one, before, could you explain to me if it doesn't bother you, what is the PWM and DME controller, where do I see it? thank you again
awesome vid. We normally use a snap on vacuum bleeder. heaps faster.
I dunno man, the standard bleed process only takes like 180 seconds :)
Very informative.
Thanks for the Video,
My 06 E90 325i keep throwing overheating symbols,
I tried the trick to see if the water pump would run, and it doesn't, could this be my issue?
Thanks
Great video, thanks for sharing, very valuable for DIYers.
Do you have a DIY for the oil pan gasket on the e90 N52?
nope, I only do a DIY when something I own needs said service or someone I know pays me what I require to do it. Pan gaskets are a world of hurt.
Hi. Appreciate you taking time and making this video. I'm about to purchase 2008 e92 328i with 81k miles. I'm already looking up all possible failures on the car. I have noticed that water pump is very common. Hope the car doesn't crap out on me as I'm gonna be 5 hours away from home. How much does a water pump and thermostat cost? I quickly looked it up online and seems like the parts alone cost upward of 700$+ I've never had a BMW but I'm lusting over 328i coupe so that's what I'm gonna get. I am pretty mechanically inclined. Do you think I'd be able to do this job? The hardest repair I've done in a car is replacing clutch on my friends Miata. Thanks for any insight you can give me.
hey -- you should be ok, just keep your driving moderate. I bought my E91 with 79k on it and drove it 1200 miles home to do the water pump. I've seen some go longer though.
my installed cost for OEM water pump and thermostats are as follows:
RWD N51/N52: $550
AWD N51/N52: $600
RWD N54/N55: $650
AWD N54/N55: $700
does not include four-zone climate vehicles.
Your video helped me do what I thought was a very difficult task. Never having worked on a German car before, this was a task. I am not sure how to get the splash guards back on correctly now. lol
One piece that is curved in the front, looks aerodynamic looks like it would go by the bumber. Not sure where it goes. Can you help?
on idle temperature normal, on driving termperature goes little higher 3 marks above center marks, most likely waterpump getting aged and old?
hi do you need to learn the punp to youre car beafor it works ??
or is it simple just conect the pump and redy to go
Do you know what is " Auxiliary coolant pump - short circuit to ground" error on bmw f10
Great video thanks. My 2009 e90 328i manual sedan is getting luke warm heat. I've ruled out coolant level and thermostat as the culprit. Do you happen to know if the heater core input\output lines can be accessed from the top if the air box is removed?
sounds like heater valve or thermostat. check CLT engine running. so many MAP controlled things on that car.
I've never seen a late model BMW heater core plugged. the blue coolant is excellent, even if neglected for more than 10 years.
Thanks for the quick responce. I looked at the 2009 e90 hose parts diagram and didn't see a heater control valve. I know the e46 and e39 had them. I ruled out the thermostat being stuck open by unlocking the engine temp and driving on a 50 degree day with the heat full on. The temp runs normal around 90C (displayed in C and not F). My car has 65000 miles so I am also somewhat perplexed as to why the heater core would be blocked on a low mile late model. interestingly, I called the local BMW service manager and he said they have done four this year and some others had the same issue on the forums. I'd like to reverse flush just to rule out any block sand casting or other debris.
So i thought that when the bleed procedure is initiated by stepping on the accelerator for 10 seconds, that the actual bleed procedure runs for 12 minutes (cycling on and off). i think in the video you said 1 to 1.5 minutes.
its 120 seconds on the N52 cars
ehh i think my 328i water pump is broken... Just replaced radiator, main housing gasket... it was overheating and one of the coolant valves burst popped, its def the water pump right?
internet diagnostic is pure conjecture
This is a great video, right to the point. question can I use ramps to do this or jacks?
+Frank Perez I think ramps would be ok. only thing is dropping the sway bar really, and that would be the same whether its on stands or ramps.
Thanks brah, was not sure if the sway bar would drop. Thanks for clarifying that it does not matter. I have an 06 325xi 153,000 and it runs strong however I believe the water pump is a ticking time bomb lol. Thks...
+Frank Perez watch my BMW X1 video. it's much more similar to your car than my wagon here due to AWD (makes the job a TON harder).
still doable on ramps, getting the pump out between the sway bar and fan shroud is a PITA on the AWD cars.
and yeah, thats a time bomb.
+Camper1234599 will check out that video thks.
I replaced my water pump on my E90 325i and I used jack stands, Nothing to it but to do it.
I'm very confused why the thermostat needs to replaced along with the pump and the new unit is plastic?!?
KeystrokeCowboy original was a Pierburg part, new one is a Wahler. just a difference in OEM. you replace it because it's cheap and easy to get to. If you do JUST the pump and the thermostat goes out 10,000 miles later, you have to remove the pump to change out the thermostat.
not required but VERY stupid to not do it.
+Camper1234599
+KeystrokeCowboy
...and to other posters who read this in the future - the water pump gets blamed for failing a lot...but I suspect that the thermostat is often the undiagnosed culprit. Here is an easy test to suggest which is failing. This test is not perfect, but will generate some useful info. Since the pump is $250-$500 depending on where you get it...I think this is worth the effort. That is especially true if your pump has only 50k miles on it, or you are on a tight budget. Use your own judgment.
1. Run the coolant purge cycle. Google it...very easy and NO risk to the engine or system. During the purge, open the hood and listen for the pump to see if it is running. It will cycle on and off. this is normal. Don't just listen "for" the pump...listen TO the pump. Is it straining, is the speed irregular or is it making weird squealing noises, or just plain not running? Those are your clues. It is not a Saturn 5 engine...it is a little electric motor turning a turbine blade which looks a lot like a turbocharger intake blade...o.k?
2. If it IS running, step two is start your engine and turn on your heater on high/max temperature. With the car warming up, sit in the car and note if the heater is actually getting hot. if the heater gets hot and STAYS hot, you know your water pump is at some level circulating coolant. This is because the heater core feed bypasses the thermostat. A stuck thermostat keeps the coolant from circulating coolant to the block...but NOT the heater core. Got it? SOMETHING must be pushing that hot coolant to the core? that "something" is your water pump, which is at some level circulating coolant, no matter what the engine computer is telling you. IF, however, the pump is bad then the heater won't be hot either, because NO coolant is circulating. Don't run the car very long...just long enough to determine if the heater stays hot. Should be evident well before the engine gives you an overheat warning. Yes, it is possible for a pump to run but not run fast enough to circulate coolant. The way to tell is how fast does your engine overheat? Reach down and feel the lower radiator hose. If it is stone cold, suspect the thermostat. If it is lukewarm, suspect the pump is not keeping up. If the car overheats in only a mile or two, suspect the thermostat...if it only overheats on hotter days, suspect the pump can't keep up...use common sense.
Anyway, the test above would SUGGEST (not prove) that the thermostat is stuck. Now you have a decision, but you have some info too. If you have the bucks, replace the pump...if you are on a budget, and the signs indicate it, try replacing the thermostat first - even though the job is a bit of a chore since you must remove and reinstall what may be a defective water pump.
re: Thermostats. Note that Gates sells this stat "lifetime warranty" for about a hundred bucks, but what they sell is (literally) sourced from the same folks as the cheaper MotoRad unit...and probably the Hella unit as well, which both sell for 30-50 bucks LESS. I have a Gates unit in front of me now, and someone at Gates has carefully removed all Hella p/n and casting marks with a die grinder to eliminate the OEM sourcing info! Boy, that's taking it a bit far, I'd say! FYI,
re: "Plastic? What?" Yep, ALL of the replacement units are plastic, and in this case this is GOOD, because the aluminum OEM units are corroding and failing. That's why they went with plastic. Aluminum is not always superior.
re: Pumps. Not all BMW electric pumps are the same quality - though the fit is more or less "universal" for the N52 and other sixes. There are at least three iterations of the so-called "Standard" BMW electric pump, all between 2007-2009. After 2009, it appears that they settled on a design. IMPORTANT: Make sure you DOUBLE CHECK the p/n on your pump to make sure you buy the latest iteration. They are externally the same, but internally improved. Clearly, BMW had problems with the first two iterations of the pump.
re: Pump sources. Check eBay for pumps. You will find a wide range of prices, currently from just under 200 to sky's the limit. IMO, avoid the Chinese pumps. (the $200 pump). I also personally laugh at the idea that one "must use" a pump from the BMW dealership. If they are so great, why have so many failed? I deliberately chose NOT to use a dealership pump on my repair, because the first one they sold me (...with the car) failed in 64k miles! Why would I choose the same poor performing part again? Get the latest version of a German made pump - you'll be fine.
re: Coolant. Note you can use Zerex G-05 rated coolant if your BMW dealership isn't close by. 50/50 with distilled water. G-05 is low silicate/low phosphate, and is IMO fine for BMW. Also, whatever way you go, REPLACE YOUR COOLANT. IIRC, it's 8.4 qt. on an N52. Before you just dump in some new G-05, FIRST run the aforementioned purge sequence 3 times with full distilled water, re-draining the radiator each time. N52 doesn't have a block drain that I can find...and if it is there, it is a bear to get to without a lift. Hence the purge. Three times will get you there. 4 gallons of distilled water...cheap insurance. FYI, after the purge, there will still be about twoish quarts left in the block. Pour in 1 gallon of FULL STERNGTH G-05, and then top off with distilled. That'll be about 50/50...give or take. (1 gal G-05 full strength plus 4.4 quarts of distilled...ish)
re: Bolts. Remember, for your installation, the aluminum bolts on the water pump must be replaced with new ones. IF you are just testing and taking the pump out to get to the thermostat, I suppose you could reuse the old bolts...but IMO don't push it. They will fail after a couple installations, and will break off in the bosses. You really don't want that. Bolt sets are ten bucks...ish. Even on a budget, I'd say get two sets of bolts if you are trying to reuse the old water pump. Just not worth the headache, IMO.
Hope these tips help some of you DIY'ers. Use your own discretion and common sense as a DIY mechanic. If any of the above doesn't make sense, take it to a dealer. Oh, and those who disagree with my comments above - fine to correct with facts, but PLEASE don't bother to flame me with dire warnings about "only BMW coolant" or "if you can't afford to blindly replace with a new pump, you can't afford a BMW", etc. You're entitled to your opinion, and I mine...but I'm not interested in arguing the point. These are cars, and many of them are now bought second hand by regular people who really CAN'T afford to toss a perfectly good five hundred dollar water pump in the garbage, or who choose NOT to give in to ignorance and BMW superstition from UA-cam / Bimmer forums, etc.
Use common sense. Good luck.
BMW quality engineering, use plastic on the thermostat housing.
Ronnie Shih I would rather buy the aluminum thermostat new than a plastic unit
KeystrokeCowboy my cars thermostat and pump both went within one week. I believe there is a relationship between one failing then the other.
Thanks for the great video. What are the torque specs for the sway bar?
unknown actually. I'd say 12 lb/ft would be safe
Great video. Do you recommend purchasing after market water pump or OEM. Thanks
never buy anything after market. link to genuine pump in description
Great video!! Realistically, how much time would you say this will take? Thanks.
depends wholly on aptitude and tools.
2-5 hours
+Camper1234599 Thanks for prompt reply, pretty handy with tools, never done this job before. Have lifts and all tools, going to do job at Navy auto hobby shop. One auto shop agree to do just the labor for $359.00 I will be supplying parts and coolant. Another wanted $888.00 with parts. Your thoughts?? Thank you.
very informative, just curious, you finished the whole job within 15 minutes?
Derek Dong yeah, more or less.
+Camper1234599 Funny how it takes the dealerships hours
Do you disconnect the battery before pump removal
I do not, but it's not to say that you shouldn't
I had a water pump and thermostat replacement done less than 3 months ago, the pump gave. out already again, im changing it out again. don't think the thermostat is out though, should i change it out anyways too?
If it was replaced at time of water pump, I wouldn't.
they probably used a cheap knock-off pump. Pierburg pumps usually last 80-100k miles on these
Is the pcv valve RELATED TO water pump, coolant, thermostat?
no
holy fuck. I bit off more than I can chew
Hi James My name is tomás I'm from chile , . The last week I had problem with the water pump. I have BMW 325I touring 2008 I dont know what is the specific parts to replace it. Did you know how is the specific serial number for this model. thanks for your help.
+Tomás Zañartu no serial numbers. any old non turbo pump
Nice!! You got me through this hell hole of a job! I was on the top water pump bolt about to kill myself haha thanks for the tips you made this easier
Lol, glad you persevered :)
first test drive did you do it with sway bar and power sterling whose unconnected or did I miss something
nope. it was all back in, underpanel was left off on the test drive though to check for leaks.
ok thanks had me worried on how did u do that
question i just did my head gasket like 2 months ago and now my car is overheating, i did smell coolant in the air vent but the car is not mixing coolant with oil. the smoke from the muffles is normal. i am assuming its the water pump and thermostat and the heater blows cold air not hot.bought the car with 108k just hit 120k. Do u think its the water pump as well?
if you're getting the sailboat on your gauge cluster, you have issues.
smoke from exhaust isn't normal unless its burning off after the head gasket change still..
did anyone else not have clerance issues trying to get waterpump to remove or fit? Please respond asap as I'm doing this on my back.
thank you for the great video
you're most welcome.
cool if u have check engine light would the motor cut back boost...? i have a vent guage that max it goes too is from -3 to 0.2 psi
probably -- these are Normally Aspirated water pumps/engines here
the N54/N55 is something I have much more limited exposure with.
Ovalbore oh okay i understand i found out why the boost guage was weird the vacuum line poped off secured it with zip ties
halo my name ist ivo. I did evereting that that video seat i by two pomps pierburg 2018 but non one works. are the pamps broken or i need to by a special pomp? I put the old pump back and it works, but the new pomp dasnt work. pleas help me. Thank zou
if the pumps are new and OEM -- your connector or DME pump driver are bad.
I can't get the first hose from the water pump to the thermostat off. Can I take off the water pump with the hoses still attached to get a better grip of the hose to disconnect it?
+ronkee24 I don't know if there's clearance to remove the other hoses, or squeeze the pump and thermostat out together. sounds fishy that that intermediate hose won't come off.
+Camper1234599 yeah, it's on there very tightly. I tried loosening it with a flat head and it still won't come off
try getting a pick underneath the lip of the hose and work your way around it while pulling. if you can get one side off, twisting and prying should get it off. the hose is under $10 new, I would strongly recommend changing it if I were in your shoes.
+Camper1234599 Thanks for the advice. I finally got. the water pump out. I also wanted to know where I could find a replacement piece for the rubber noise dampener?
not sure which part that is?
I'm driving an e90 2006 model, it overheat and i replaced waterpump and thermostart, but the car is still overheating, i tryed to check the fuses but i don't know where is the fuse for the waterpump can you help to find the fuse box in the engine compartment
Alfred Maebela either you have bad pins in the connector on the pump, the pump driver is fried in the engine computer, you blew your head gasket or..?
Either way, you need a dealer.
Error code on check engine reads faulty thermostat.... never had overheating issues though??? Problem I am having though is every acceleration theres a baaaad shake almost makes it not accelerate is this the thermo or water pump at fault here? Thanks in advance
you're under heating.
What did you do to resolve your issue. My car 2008 328i shaked occasionally along with some type of fault symbol on the display but it would go away minutes later. that continued for over a year and a half...now I'm over heating with smoke from radiator. Must be my water pump and thermostat?!?!
Pino Amerikano I would say so
I'm in the market for a wagon and I'm looking into the wagons between 08-11, are they worth it?
manual, rear wheel drive ones certainly are
Is it possible to replace the thermostat without removing and replacing the water pump?
no, I don't believe so.
i bought a berh mahle and vdo water pump n thermostat are they good brands
for the N54/N55 you want the VDO/Continental pump, yes.
the Behr, Wahler, Motorad, Beck/Arnley, Stant thermostats are excellent.
stuff like Koolman is junk.
Ovalbore ok the god it was like 400+ bucks
Can i just replace the pump and keep old thermostat?
you can cut cost however you please
absolutely if "you're" replacing both when needed, If you pay someone, do both, they're already there... Save on Labor
Do you need to drain the radiator as well?
drains out more or less with the water pump
Would this be identical to x drive?? I have 328xi
no. AWD cars are completely different from the B pillar forward.
See my X1 water pump video for something a little closer to your car..
and then buy a RWD car next time
Can you tell me where the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located on a 2009 BMW 335i Coupe Convertible (E92?)
cylinder head
In order to this i need to have something to lift the car up right?
It makes things a lot easier, but you can always just jack the car up on stands.
Hi I have a e90 2007 318 and the heaters are only blowing out warm air for a matter of 2 minutes then going cold again I've had it plugged in and it say faulty auxiliary water pump is this this part also I hear a clicking noise when I try to self bleed it but no water is circulating can anyone help please
sounds like a low coolant level issue potentially. if there's no obvious pump noise on the self bleed mode, you need a water pump
i have a 2007 bmw 328i and i think my electric water pump is out cuz the car keeps overheating on me ? it has plenty of coolant would this be able to help me
stop driving it. yes, it's almost certainly the water pump. you will (or maybe already have) done significant damage to your engine by overheating it.
Ovalbore what electric water pump and thermostat should I get to replace it ?
trying bleeding procedure see if it comes on and starts circulating the coolant in the reservoir.
@@ignacioromero5014 doesn't start. Must mean the pump is out
Could you give me please be exactly number of the parts??
no, use the links below.
okay so I'm thinking my headgasket is blown on my e90. any tips on how to check?
+derrick clark take it somewhere for a leak-down test is my advice
Much thanks. She's in the shop now. I have a friend who's a renown mechanic. I appreciate the response!
was it blown?
I replaced my pump and thermostat and still is not working?? HELP??
bad plug, bad pump, bad ECU - take it to a shop.
Ovalbore all happened last week, the blower motor wires melted kill the battery, I replaced the battery
And the blower was blowing even if the car is off then i saw melted wires
all the more reason to take it in. it is going to need some professional help. theres a 40A mega fuse for these in the glove box, but you roasted your wiring.
Blower motor wiring is a recall item.. you MIGHT be able to get a BMW dealer to good faith your wiring harness.
Ovalbore yes i took it and left the car
Waiting to call me...
They fixed the recalls...
But the water pump atill not responding?
why is the new thermostat plastic
they all are now. only some early 2007s, and 2006s had aluminum housings. I've never seen one of these plastic ones fail externally before, they're solid.
What is the cost of the water pump?
jim dandy varries. a genuine article is between 330 and 680
Is that the same ridiculous engine that doesn't have a dipstick?
oh, you mean modern engines? Yes.
even the new GM 4 cylinder silverado engine runs an electric water pump.
these guys are ahead of the curve. It'd be fabulous if they just put it in the maintenance guide as an 80,000 mile replacement item. they're silly reliable and efficient through that usable life
Wat abut the 750
Just failed on me today thanks a lot BMW.
Paul Reza rip it’s about a five to six hour job.
12 minutes for bleeding
if you need the whole cycle. only for cold thermostats.
12 minutes to bleed the car. not 1 min 1/2
if you fill it properly, you dont even need the bleed procedure.
My 2011..G.kool.i.well lorn.thes.G
this is not e93 video...e93 is wayyyyy different...
nope. identical. You might have a twin turbo car, those are way different. E93 328i is exactly this same process.
@@OvalboreCars nope n55 single turbo m sport.. lower x braces due to no integral roof structure.
again, this is not even remotely close to a 335i.
the under bracing is irrelevant to the job itself. turbo cars have a completely different pump setup and are much, much more difficult. See my X1 pump replacement video for a closer analog.
This has nothing to do with your car being an E93 and everything to do with the fact you're looking at the wrong engine for a DIY.
I have a e93 with N53 engine and it looks totally different. Sitting here got many things off and now the steering gear is in front of the pump.. the video can’t be used for the E93. Don’t know what to do next now… thing I’m gonna assemble it back together and drive to a mechanic
let me se u on a xdrive lol!!!!!
GROSSSSSSSSS
talk soo much, when the job is a pice of cake... most people are like that.. when hard its different