2 years ago I picked up an 04 Tahoe with a legit 60k Mi on it, with no rust, great interior, but early 2000's GM paint was abandoning ship like the titanic. So I finally built my home downdraft booth and I ripped the remaining paint off the truck and after a trip to my local NAPA I had my base coat and decided to try Finish 1's clear. Now I've sprayed everything you can think of as far as clears go, from piss thin duplicolor paint shop acrylic lacquer clear, to stupid expensive stuff from ppg while I was painting fire trucks for KME, and this is hands down the best reasonably priced 2k clear coats out there. It sprays so well that you'd have to be completely inept to make it run, and so long as your equipment is in good order you probably won't have to cut and buff. I use finish 1 on everything now unless it's some obscure project like a guy coming in with a 1950s era dodge sedan and he wanted a lacquer paint job as that was what the vehicle came with. I knew that was a crap idea but he insisted and the customer is always right so long as they pay promptly 😊.
I wish somebody would do a review on this clear after it’s been sitting in the sun for 2 or 3 years. In my past experience trying other cheap clears, it’s usually plain and simple. The quality of the clearcoat comes from the amount of bonding agent it contains. I’ve done this with other cheaper clears and here’s the results vs good clears like Sherwin Ultra… $120 clear- 1-2 years peeling $600 clear- 10-15 years peeling
I have shot many cars with FC720 over the years. I agree you do need a 1.2-1.3 tip as it goes on heavy. I never had a problem with drying and have knocked it down with 1500 as soon as 24hrs after I shot it. The one thing I have noticed is; if you’re going to wetsand and buff, hit it with 1500-2000 and let it breathe for a few days before buffing. I have seen experienced many instances of dieback with this and DC5020 for some reason. Overall, it’s a decent middle of the road clear for most cars.
Someone told me about sanding clear to let it breath so it can dry. Didn't know if it was a thing or not. I sprayed a hood with some cheap Upol clear. The temp was in the 50's and I could still leave a finger print in it a day or two after. When it finally cured it dyed back bad. I sprayed some other parts with a higher quality clear in the same temps and they dried pretty good with little to no dye back
@Joesmusclecargarage No booth, in my 1 car garage. I had the garage door about half way open and the side door half open. It's warming up now. I think next winter I'll play around with a torpedo heater and heat lamps
I used to use that clear. Doesn't have good uv protection. Also, take a long time to dry. I wouldn't use it on insurance jobs. I would only use it on dealer work or for sale cars
any recommendations for a clear i should use? i do jobs at home in my garage. I'm starting to worry about the quality of my work if you say it doesn't have good uv protection... Also i struggle to get these products to lay flat, which ive always thought was just my bad painting skills. But honestly im starting to doubt it.
I bought a gallon of this in a pinch and used it on many motorcycles and never had any issues, even did a few of my bikes and years have gone by with no problems, I used all of it and might buy some more it’s at the right price
I just used this clear for the 1st time and I am amazed with how flat it laid and zero orange peel. I normally paint with Matrix Ms-52 and its harder to lay down than this clear. I used the 1.3 tip on the FC720 and no orange peel, but the matrix ms-52 gives you the factory looking orange peel with the 1.3 tip. As a matter of fact, FC-720 looks better than the matrix but the life of it on the road I can't vouch for.
From other reviewers they mention this clearcoat has no UV protection and will fade quickly with in a year. Some recommend using flow coat on top to help with UV protection
@@TurbineResearch I buy all of mine from Sherwin Williams directly I actually spray there paint because of the quality and cost there paint covers really well I switched from spraying glasurit and limco
My experience is that it cures fine when baked, and can be wet sanded and polished after baking. But at the same time it is soo rubbery! It's like a contradiction. I'm guessing it is designed to be soft, so it doesn't crack on plastics? I've used much cheaper clear that cured hard, which is better for my needs.
My brother paints and his shop won't use 4:1 clear , they only use 2:1 ...He laughed and told me 4:1 is for collision work , not for a show car type job ..
Hm care to explain the difference? I work at a shop and use 4:1 clear coat I’m a beginner painter and want to get better and want to know the differences
Primadonna's usually laugh at change. True professionals don't care what somebody else uses. If they get great results. Tell your brother to come down off his totem pole.
That's an oversimplification and misguided judgment, the mix ratio does not determine the quality of a clear coat. TC in Annapolis MD 35 years collision refinish experience
Id be interested in trying out the fc710 for quick drying in a garage setting to keep the trash out. I use the upol universal clear at $90 a kit. It lays down smooth if you atomize it good and lay it wet but it too takes a long time to dry and harden. Ive sprayed higher quality clears in the $200 price range flow out way better and harden up faster with higher scratch resistance. I hear Speedokote products are good too
whats a good clear in that 200 dollar price range? ive been using sherwin williams for a long while now but im starting to lose faith in it. cant get it to lay flat for the life of me
@SteamTrain2639 Do you have an LKQ/Keystone close to you? I use their Keystone Platinum brand overall clear and it is really good. Lays out really nice and its not runny. It's about $180 a kit. It doesn't dye back either and has really nice gloss retention. I deliver for them and my customers really like the clears. They have a thick high solids 2to1 version at about $230-240 a kit that's really good and my customers like the euro clear HS version but it's $300 a kit and is really shiny. Mite not match low shine cars for spot work
@@MarcBchannel I had no idea lkq had a refinishing branch. I'm unfortunately not a shop but a DIY guy doing side jobs at home. Would I be able to just walk in there and buy some?
@SteamTrain2639 Anybody can go in and get parts. LKQ owns Keystone aftermarket. The LKQ is the salvage side and Keystone is the aftermarket parts and bodyshop/paint supplies. The location where I work is both. We distribute the salvage parts shipped in from our LKQ yards and we stock and distribute Keystone aftermarket parts and supplies. They pretty much sell everything automotive. Of your interested in the paint and supplies look up the Keystone Platinum PDF catalog online. It's an old copy bit all the paints supplies are the same. Full line of clears, primers, fillers, sandpaper and masking, tools and supplies. You can also get paint mixed. PPG deltron/omni/omni plus, akzonobel wanda base👍
Been using the FC720 recently and struggling with fisheye. Even bought a new compressor and filtration to ensure air is dry. Harley parts that are not silicon contaminated so I can’t figure out why I keep getting this problem
Sorted it out. The gun manufacturer used a silicon grease where the needle enters the rear port of the gun. Scrubbed that out and resolved my problems. Cheers
Thanks for watching! I think rustoleum is oil based and to be sure just check the technical data sheet on the clear coat and it will tell you for sure what is compatible.
I recently painted some of my interior parts like dashboard and center console with color bond LVP. Do you know if this would finish well over interior plastic with the paint i mentioned as a base?
@@gladememmott3001 all I can say is be careful lol. I haven't painted a car with it, but I sprayed a test fender with it and got a few runs in it. It's probably good for restoration or custom work. Not good for a production shop. I talked to the guy that owns the company and he said they are working on a clear for production shops. I'm used to using medium solid clears. So shooting a high solid clear takes some getting used to
2 years ago I picked up an 04 Tahoe with a legit 60k Mi on it, with no rust, great interior, but early 2000's GM paint was abandoning ship like the titanic. So I finally built my home downdraft booth and I ripped the remaining paint off the truck and after a trip to my local NAPA I had my base coat and decided to try Finish 1's clear. Now I've sprayed everything you can think of as far as clears go, from piss thin duplicolor paint shop acrylic lacquer clear, to stupid expensive stuff from ppg while I was painting fire trucks for KME, and this is hands down the best reasonably priced 2k clear coats out there. It sprays so well that you'd have to be completely inept to make it run, and so long as your equipment is in good order you probably won't have to cut and buff. I use finish 1 on everything now unless it's some obscure project like a guy coming in with a 1950s era dodge sedan and he wanted a lacquer paint job as that was what the vehicle came with. I knew that was a crap idea but he insisted and the customer is always right so long as they pay promptly 😊.
It’s honestly an awesome clear ! I agree
I think I read the 710 dries faster than the 720. That's why it's labeled for spot or panel painting.
I wish somebody would do a review on this clear after it’s been sitting in the sun for 2 or 3 years. In my past experience trying other cheap clears, it’s usually plain and simple. The quality of the clearcoat comes from the amount of bonding agent it contains. I’ve done this with other cheaper clears and here’s the results vs good clears like Sherwin Ultra…
$120 clear- 1-2 years peeling
$600 clear- 10-15 years peeling
After 18 months my truck looks the same as day 1
More about the UV protecting additives than anything.
I have shot many cars with FC720 over the years. I agree you do need a 1.2-1.3 tip as it goes on heavy. I never had a problem with drying and have knocked it down with 1500 as soon as 24hrs after I shot it. The one thing I have noticed is; if you’re going to wetsand and buff, hit it with 1500-2000 and let it breathe for a few days before buffing. I have seen experienced many instances of dieback with this and DC5020 for some reason. Overall, it’s a decent middle of the road clear for most cars.
Someone told me about sanding clear to let it breath so it can dry. Didn't know if it was a thing or not. I sprayed a hood with some cheap Upol clear. The temp was in the 50's and I could still leave a finger print in it a day or two after. When it finally cured it dyed back bad. I sprayed some other parts with a higher quality clear in the same temps and they dried pretty good with little to no dye back
@@MarcBchannel Did you shoot it in a booth or at least have some decent air circulation?
@Joesmusclecargarage No booth, in my 1 car garage. I had the garage door about half way open and the side door half open. It's warming up now. I think next winter I'll play around with a torpedo heater and heat lamps
I used to use that clear. Doesn't have good uv protection. Also, take a long time to dry. I wouldn't use it on insurance jobs. I would only use it on dealer work or for sale cars
any recommendations for a clear i should use? i do jobs at home in my garage. I'm starting to worry about the quality of my work if you say it doesn't have good uv protection...
Also i struggle to get these products to lay flat, which ive always thought was just my bad painting skills. But honestly im starting to doubt it.
I bought a gallon of this in a pinch and used it on many motorcycles and never had any issues, even did a few of my bikes and years have gone by with no problems, I used all of it and might buy some more it’s at the right price
It’s a good all around clear for the money
I just used this clear for the 1st time and I am amazed with how flat it laid and zero orange peel. I normally paint with Matrix Ms-52 and its harder to lay down than this clear. I used the 1.3 tip on the FC720 and no orange peel, but the matrix ms-52 gives you the factory looking orange peel with the 1.3 tip. As a matter of fact, FC-720 looks better than the matrix but the life of it on the road I can't vouch for.
From other reviewers they mention this clearcoat has no UV protection and will fade quickly with in a year. Some recommend using flow coat on top to help with UV protection
The UV protection is an issue with these cheap low solids clears. Spraying 2-3 coats then flow coating would definitely help with UV protection👍
I use a lot of this clear, it works great
I've sprayed that clear many times and I can touch it in 45 minutes with no finger print and I have cut and buff it after 24 hours
You must have a good batch haha
@@TurbineResearch I buy all of mine from Sherwin Williams directly I actually spray there paint because of the quality and cost there paint covers really well I switched from spraying glasurit and limco
My experience is that it cures fine when baked, and can be wet sanded and polished after baking. But at the same time it is soo rubbery! It's like a contradiction. I'm guessing it is designed to be soft, so it doesn't crack on plastics? I've used much cheaper clear that cured hard, which is better for my needs.
fast dry hardner for colder temps slow for hot temp. and med. for in between, 2to 1 or 4 to one,also 710 dries way faster
My brother paints and his shop won't use 4:1 clear , they only use 2:1 ...He laughed and told me 4:1 is for collision work , not for a show car type job ..
Hm care to explain the difference?
I work at a shop and use 4:1 clear coat I’m a beginner painter and want to get better and want to know the differences
Primadonna's usually laugh at change. True professionals don't care what somebody else uses. If they get great results. Tell your brother to come down off his totem pole.
That's an oversimplification and misguided judgment, the mix ratio does not determine the quality of a clear coat.
TC in Annapolis MD
35 years collision refinish experience
Id be interested in trying out the fc710 for quick drying in a garage setting to keep the trash out. I use the upol universal clear at $90 a kit. It lays down smooth if you atomize it good and lay it wet but it too takes a long time to dry and harden. Ive sprayed higher quality clears in the $200 price range flow out way better and harden up faster with higher scratch resistance. I hear Speedokote products are good too
whats a good clear in that 200 dollar price range? ive been using sherwin williams for a long while now but im starting to lose faith in it. cant get it to lay flat for the life of me
@SteamTrain2639 Do you have an LKQ/Keystone close to you? I use their Keystone Platinum brand overall clear and it is really good. Lays out really nice and its not runny. It's about $180 a kit. It doesn't dye back either and has really nice gloss retention. I deliver for them and my customers really like the clears. They have a thick high solids 2to1 version at about $230-240 a kit that's really good and my customers like the euro clear HS version but it's $300 a kit and is really shiny. Mite not match low shine cars for spot work
@@MarcBchannel I had no idea lkq had a refinishing branch. I'm unfortunately not a shop but a DIY guy doing side jobs at home. Would I be able to just walk in there and buy some?
@SteamTrain2639 Anybody can go in and get parts. LKQ owns Keystone aftermarket. The LKQ is the salvage side and Keystone is the aftermarket parts and bodyshop/paint supplies. The location where I work is both. We distribute the salvage parts shipped in from our LKQ yards and we stock and distribute Keystone aftermarket parts and supplies. They pretty much sell everything automotive. Of your interested in the paint and supplies look up the Keystone Platinum PDF catalog online. It's an old copy bit all the paints supplies are the same. Full line of clears, primers, fillers, sandpaper and masking, tools and supplies. You can also get paint mixed. PPG deltron/omni/omni plus, akzonobel wanda base👍
@MarcBchannel amazing information. I'm in socal and looks like there's one near me! Will definitely check it out thanks my man
I liked my finish one job!
Been using the FC720 recently and struggling with fisheye. Even bought a new compressor and filtration to ensure air is dry. Harley parts that are not silicon contaminated so I can’t figure out why I keep getting this problem
Sorted it out. The gun manufacturer used a silicon grease where the needle enters the rear port of the gun. Scrubbed that out and resolved my problems. Cheers
@@stevent1074what gun is this?
How long to wait before cutting the 613 slow finish one, in this Tampa heat!
I wait 24-48hrs and seems to be fine
Thanks for the review! Can I spray that over rustoleum?
Thanks for watching! I think rustoleum is oil based and to be sure just check the technical data sheet on the clear coat and it will tell you for sure what is compatible.
yes you can
i have done it but needs hardner in it to dry faster
I love the questions....lol...
Would you suggest the medium hardener? Or a fast hardener?
I sprayed the medium from temps ranging from 70f to 100f and it did fine in all those temperatures
Could I use this clear with a different brand base coat??
Yea absolutely! Most acrylic urethane clear coats are compatible with other brand urethane base coats
I recently painted some of my interior parts like dashboard and center console with color bond LVP. Do you know if this would finish well over interior plastic with the paint i mentioned as a base?
Check the TDS and it will tell you what you can paint over. I think as long as it’s prepared you can paint many types of cured paints
@@TurbineResearch ok ill look into it. I went ahead and ordered some fc 720 satin clear.
Do you think your dry time has to do with you not using reducer/hardener?
I filmed myself mixing and it’s mixed with hardener properly . This one just takes a month to fully harden
Hello what psi did you run the can says 8 -10 ? Thx
Every sprayer is different mine was at 28psi
Have you tried grant 7?
I haven’t tried that one
I've tried it. I had that you have to wait a week to buff it
@@marcuswhite1403 WOW 😳 that's a lot of curd time... Super high solids clear coat... How is it to spray? What's the trick?
@@gladememmott3001 all I can say is be careful lol. I haven't painted a car with it, but I sprayed a test fender with it and got a few runs in it. It's probably good for restoration or custom work. Not good for a production shop. I talked to the guy that owns the company and he said they are working on a clear for production shops. I'm used to using medium solid clears. So shooting a high solid clear takes some getting used to
@@marcuswhite1403 thanks 😊
i spy an e30
What hardener did you used ? Slow?
Medium