How to Air Seal and Insulate Your Vintage Home
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- How-To Home Film Series
Practical and trusted advice for owners of vintage homes, at your doorstep!
In our second episode, watch and learn how to air seal and insulate your vintage home. You'll walk through a home with a finished attic, but most of the same principals will apply to any vintage home. (Our next video will focus specifically on unfinished attic spaces.)
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This video is especially helpful if you have applied for, or are interested in applying for, the Chicago Bungalow Association's Energy Savers program:
ComEd® and Peoples Gas, in partnership with the Chicago Bungalow Association, provide customers with free home energy upgrades with CBA's Energy Savers. The free weatherization services and installation of free energy-saving products help increase comfort, lower utility bills, add value and extend the life of your home.
Learn more and apply online for Energy Savers at www.chicagobungalow.org/energy-savers
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Is that closed or open celled foam?
Would this not destroy the old homes capacity to dry from the water that makes it through the brick?
Yes this prevents the masonry from breathing out moisture and inhibits the home from creating positive pressure, as old homes pre 1950's were designed to do. It's much better and safer to wrap the homes exterior if one can afford to, or, insulate with rockwool.
The space between brick and the stud wall should not be insulated as that space is to allow the brick to dry out. Wet bricks can result in them falling apart.
On the exterior, not on the interior. The entire assembly will dry to the exterior which is common for a northern climate.
@@appletongoose both sides of the brick need to breathe. Thus why putting insulation on the back side of the brick will not allow it to dry properly
Kenny The Almost Engineer I do not agree, but there are multiple ways to do it. In this case the closed cell foam is your vapor barrier. Thus this side is impermeable- but there is no permeable layer on the exterior, which- in a midwestern climate- is the correct flow of vapor. Heat moves to cold, and in Chicago we primarily heat our homes, therefor the vapor drive is primarily to the exterior. The closed cell foam actually improves the brick as interior vapor is blocked from getting to the bricks. They’ll now be the driest bricks in the assembly.
I agree with this comment! If its not important it wouldnt b there in the first place theyd just plaster right on the brick...
Will the insulation in the walls make them rot away sooner? I heard sometimes it can increase mold and rot in old houses?
one odd thing here - you added a ventilation fan, but provided no make up air. Where do you think the air leaving the house is coming from? So... all that make up air is going to come from the cracks and crevices you missed, creating moisture problems in the walls. The point of sealing a house is the ability to control when and where the exterior air comes from. If you ventilate, you need to replace that air with controlled air though a ventilator, preferably a heat recovery ventilator.
It's prob worse than that. Gas powered water heater or central heat, fire place, stove; all locations with a need to exhaust air to the outside and now at a greater risk of reverse airflow and subsequent carbon monoxide poisoning.
Sealing the rain drain space between brick and wall is a bad bad bad idea. It traps water that gets past brick in the wall
Yes, you can't block the drains, they are there for a reason.
I understand that every home is different and unique, however a baseline cost estimate would be nice information to have in order to consider having this assessment done to my Bungalow.
Would be a lot better if you posted up before and after ACH numbers
Lol bahaha uuuum that 1" gap between brick and plaster is there for a reason lol :/!!!
I have heard of issues with the foam insulation. 👵
Wouldn't do it