Great video! I did an oil based rust proofing on my car and wanted to cover up more areas to get me through winter. Your video is very informative. Thank you a million times over 🙏
I oil my car/truck with hydraulic 32 mixed with 10w40. Compressed air and a suitable air oilcan. Always use NEW oil. I spray about 3 Litres underneath and in the frame rails each year. My 1996 ram/cummins is still mint underneath , greetings from Finland :)
the truck/car producers should do a better job and this problem wouldnt exist-with nowadys technical solutions rust doesnt need to be an issue-but people would keep their vehicles for too long if they didnt rust...so this poor undercoating happens on purpose across the industry to crank on sales... thanks for the tips.
Glad to help out and I agree! Seems like so many new vehicles now have a major issue rusting and it doesn't make it any easier when they're using a thinner gauge too.
Only the sheet metal...frame is still steel. Plus aluminum can still "corrode" (what you call "rust" if it isn't iron-based.) Plenty of aluminum-skinned airplanes are deemed "unairworthy" due to corrosion. Aluminum alloys (i.e. 7075 or 6061) are more prone to corrosion than pure aluminum is.
Instead of covering the wheels, I would removed them (one at a time for safety,) to slide better access to more areas. Also a good idea to clean lug/nut threads at this time.
I did this all over my car bottom. It worked out great, but don't spray the exhaust pipes or it'll smoke. It'll be fine when it burns off, but it does smell bad.
you're one of the few people I see on here smart enough to be using the right kind of product. You will need like 20 cans to do the truck though... Which is a fine thing to do. However if you take it to a place like Krown or rust check, they do good work... They will even drill into area's that you can't get to and mist inside. These places are so confident with their products if you get it oil sprayed yearly from new, they will fix any rust that may occur on the body.
Thank you! I've always made it a habit to when removing body panels to apply an oil spray in behind to help prevent future rust too. I've owned quite a few vehicles which were oil sprayed, you get dirty quick when working on them, but it saves the body. My one car which is an 84 with almost 300,000km, while the clear coat is worn, the car is original and there isn't any rust. It's been oil spray for a good portion of it's life.
yup I live in a rust belt, where it's huimid and the roads are salted all winter, I have an 86 land cruiser with 350 000km on it, it has rust, but no holes.... I see GM's that are only a few years old with rocker panels totally rotted off.
I just used synthetic transmission fluid Valvoline red container.ATF.from wallmart $17 good for 1 year not easy wash away even severe snow.of coarse.with cartons underneath.not to mess up.
THAT IS A GOOD TIP. MY BUDDY HAS A HUMP BACK WRECKER HE CARRIED HIS STOCK CAR ON IT FOR YEARS LIKE I DID MINE AND THAT IS WHAT HE TAUGHT ME TO USE ON MINE TO THIS DAY TO PRESERVE THEM. OTHER THAN HAVING MY CABINET DOORS REMOVED AND POWDER COATED THEM I ALSO HAD MY GALVANIZED RAMPS WERE CUT OUT WAY BACK WHEN... ALL THE BAD OR BENT RAMP SUPPORTS WERE ALSO CUT OUT AND REDONE WHEN IT WAS CUT APART AFTER IT WAS PAINTED THE TRANSFLUID WAS APPLIED LIKE THE FIRST TIME WAS IN 1998 OR SO A FEW TIMES AFTER THAT TOO. IT'S STILL GOOD WITH VERY LITTLE RUST CAME BACK EVEN WHERE THE WELDS ARE AT. WE ALSO CUT THE CAB FLOORS & MOUNTS OUT AT THE SAME TIME. WORKED WONDERS COATING IT WITH RUSTOLEUM BACK WHEN IT WAS WORTH A FUCK TO USE IT BACK THEN WE USED THE TRANSFLUID OVER THE RUSTOLEUM ON THE UNDERSIDES OF THE FLOOR PLANS WE USED AN OLD CAN SPRAY GUN NOT EVEN GRAVITY FED GUN BACK THEN WE HAD THEM OLD CAN GUNS AND SHOT IT. NOW DAYS IF YOU SPRAY TRANS FLUID ON RUSTOLEUM THE SHIT WILL PEEL OFF SO I USE ACRYLICS MIX IT WITH BED LINER SHIT AND BRUSH IT ON. YOU CAN SPRAY OIL ON THE MIX OF THE BED LINER STUFF AND IT HOLDS UP AMAZINGLY WELL IT REALLY DOES. DOESN'T PEEL IT OFF EITHER AND I USE EPOXY PRIMER AS WELL OFTEN TIMES I MAKE MY OWN MIX OF URETHANE EPOXY PRIME AND MIX PRIME ETCH IN THAT... I HAD A FEW FAILS DOING THAT DEPENDS ON THE BRAND OF EPOXY PRIMER I BUY. WHEN MIXED WITH AN ETCH THE PRIMER HARDENS THRU AND THRU FOR FRAME AND UNDERSIDE WORK AND WHAT YA PUT ON IT STICKS WELL. I DON'T GO OVERBOARD USING ALOT OF HARDENER IN THE EPOXY PRIMER THE XYLENE IN THE BED LINER AND ACRYLICS SEEM TO BITE INTO THE PRIMER BETTER THAN IF YA USE ALOT OF HARDENER IN THE PRIME. THE END RESULTS ARE A REALLY HARD DURABLE FINISH...
Vehicle manufacturers purposefully avoid rust prevention due to cost. Statistics show most people trade or sell prior to rust . Any preventative measures done after vehicle has been driven are almost completely useless as road dust etc within box frame , crimped body panels etc will not be completed due to difficulty to properly coat with adequate mils of material. Honest rust proof staff will tell you the same .
thinkin about doin some fluid film to this '97 nissan i just bought. it's only got 73 thousand miles and is pretty clean. does anyone know if these lanolin sprays are bad for cv boots and rubber bushings?
No problem. Avoid petroleum based sprays/oils on those boots (I cover mine and use it anyway, along with bushings, plastic spring bushings, all plastic and rubber parts... I use the more expensive stuff only in these areas to save $$$
some friends of mine use used motor oil in a paint gun to do there trucks the whole underneath then they take the truck down a dusty road a few times works really good but i wouldn't do it to mine being i work on all my own an just taking one bolt out you could come out from underneath there looking like you just got done taking the whole engine out lol
Never spray with used motor oil, the engine contaminations in the oil do almost more harm than good. Use new oil, for example 10w40 mixed with hydraulic 32
+jw200 Thank you. Yes they are. Never had any issues, although they can slide if there is ice on the ground. These are about 10yrs old and surprisingly enough have no cracks, chips, or even deep scratches. I absolutely love them and would recommend them.
WAL-MART. THEY ARE CALLED RINO RAMPS.. THEY HOLD UP FOR LIGHT CARS NOT GOOD FOR WORK TRUCKS LIKE MY 2500 EXPRESS VAN ON SILVERADOS... THE RAMPS TEND TO COMPRESS ALOT WITH A PICKUP OF A VAN ESPECIALLY WITH TOOLS TOOL BOXES AND LADDERS...
Another method that I have used is to remove the rust with sandpaper of a grinder, clean it and paint it with the cheap matt black spraypaint, which costs 5USD per can. This will last for about a year or more.
+Daniel San Excellent tip, thank you for sharing. But the only issue I would see is that is wouldn't be able to provide a protective layer inside any frame rails, inside doors, etc.
+tracycolorado I have heard of good results using that method. But I have also heard rumours that is can sometimes wash away very easily during any rainy weather.
Intheevening 123 I've used it for 2 straight seasons. Used the red color. Live in a salty region & so it flakes up after 2 years! It certainly helps prevent the acceleration but not completely stop rust!
@@kurtnulf3362 I will have to try wool wax I didn't have much luck with fluid film it actually caused rust on a few parts that I had. I like to use oils on Motor Parts and other metals to prevent corrosion so something non-flammable would be best.
+Tulsie Ramroop Walmart does carry some Gumout products, along with Home Hardware, NAPA Auto parts, Canadian Tire, Uni-Select, and Auto Value, etc, or you can purchase it online as well.
I get my car krowned every year. in the wheel wells there is quite a thick layer of oiled diet and sand from each year that builds up over the metal and plastic liner. should I.pressure wash that off each year or leave it?
+mraccord92 Before or during the winter I would leave that protection on. But afterwards or before a new oil spray it can be cleaned. Normally what I do is use Spray Nine, apply it in the fender well, allow it to soak in, and then pressure wash it.
Thanks. Some say leave it on its an extra layer that keep building, but I would think it would be better to eventually wash that on in the spring after the salt has been washed away for the summer and start with a clean surface for the rust proofing next year.
+mraccord92 Some of those layers can get quite thick if they don't have a way to wear off. It's not really hurting anything, but personally I like to have cleaner fender wells.
a question. When you spray inside tight drain holes, would this product not create uneven coverage(high around the hole and none farther away), effectively blocking the drain hole - which would make the problem worse? Also, will this product attract dirt, thus, again, defeating the purpose?
It won't plug drain holes or pool up water. For that you'd have to apply a very thick layer and the chances of it staying a thick layer would be slim. It will attract some dust which isn't a problem as it'll leave basically an oily skin, protecting the surface.
Might be due to Covid, either their production plant was closed or one of the ingredients may not be available. There's a lot of production and supply issues with various products. There was a big supply problem with one of the most common micro chips used in vehicles just recently due to the pandemic.
whats the diffrence between this stuff and wd40? i use the the wd40 in the big blast can. i take a can in each hand (no jack just a skateboard and a welding mask) and get crazy with it on the undercarriage! its always worked just fine for me.
I was thinking vegetable oil too, it's cheap and eco friendly. I think the main downside is it may attract rats and mice. I have pet rats and whenever I grease their wheel with veggie oil they go bonkers licking it off.
@@lordfumblesquid I made a mix of beeswax and soybean oil and that one lasted a long time and I can see places on my frame where it's still there 3 years later, but I had to put it on with a brush as the gun clogged. I also tried making my own fluid film more or less last winter too by looking at the SDS and that will work but it's short term as it will wash off quick. So probably any non-drying oil you put on there won't last that long. I tried a couple of layers of a drying oil followed by a layer or two of non drying. I'll see how it works.
Hello, kinda scared to DIY my own car, as stupid as this sounds I just need to clean underneath my car with power washer, maybe degreaser and spray this right? Just ordered some cans of oil based spray like yours and need some advice beforehand (like not spraying on the radiator). Any tips would be appreciated! 🙂
No need to be scared, while it may seem daunting, there's really no wrong way to do this. We all have to start somewhere :) Just be careful around areas such as the brakes, exhaust, and belts. Yes you can pressure wash the underneath of the vehicle. I'm currently putting together a new oil spray video, but it involves using a professional style applicator gun. I went down to my local carwash where they use hot water and they have a filtration system so you're not washing off old oil spray onto the ground. I used a degreaser which comes from my detailing supplier, sprayed the underside of the truck, let it soak in for a few minutes, this continued to wash the underside. Take the vehicle for a highway drive after to promote drying, even give it a couple days so it dries, then apply the oil spray.
@@4DIYers Hi, thanks for replying, I really appreciate it! I've just got some degreaser as well. Next time I have weekend off I'll plan to spray half of the car (with my small carjack), and other half later :)
Doesn't last long makes dirt stick to it so then if you go to work on it your truck is all dirty underneath just go take it to get linex underneath or put it on yourself and that lasts a long time and will not rust
Has anyone tried wd-40 for this? Does wd-40 tend to sell rubber much? I'd like to do this to my truck and sxs every little bit and I have some wd-40 laying around at about all times.
Thanks but it ceases to amaze me that on all of my Google searches there are no long-term testing results shown doing this in a rather simple control testing set-up. What are or would be the results after 1 to 2 years, the treatment side versus no treatment on a test vehicle? Yes, I am in favor of doing it. Makes sense it would help. But what are the actual demonstrable results before and after from testing on a scarificed, real-world utility truck (for example) or normal passenger car like a small SUV driven as it normally would (5,000 to 6,000 miles or so for the winter), under regular working and commuting conditions in a Michigan, New York, Pa., Ohio salt-covered winter road exposure? Also, it is more reputable to use ONE previously slightly rusted car to see how it either slows down more rust and corrosion versus not applying it. Using two different models, brands, or age of vehicles, to me, is not as trusted. I want to see how the same car looks after treatment (1/2 treated versus 1/2 not treated). So here would be my dream test if I could afford it: Find a mechanically working Ford or Chevy medium duty (nothing special) work truck that has already rusted on the underside, on running boards and wheel wells etc. Using one half as the control and one half as the to be sprayed half, spray one-half of the car with fluid film or this stuff and leave the other half alone. Only pre-treatment would be to power wash the underside and parts and let thoroughly dry before application. make sure to take pictures up close of the control and treated areas and entire condition of the vehicle PRIOR to spraying the treatment. Mark the date, the temp applied etc. and any important factors like dry time, etc. From front bumper to back bumper divide (not physically of course) the vehicle down the middle for the 1/2 & 1/2 test. Driver-side use the fluid fillm or this recommended spray and on the passenger-side leave it completely alone. To be fair, if the tester thinks it would be more impressive to see actual results by only applying to the more rusted parts or the more rusted 1/2, then do so if it is different than the 1/2 I am mentioning here. In any event control the testing, note what you are doing, to do it right. Normally the driver-side of a vehicle will receive more muck splashing and road debris from other cars. The driver-side is generally more exposed to other passing cars. Make sure the test begins before any snow and salt treatments, such as at the end of August or Sept. and ends at the end of April. Do normal washing as can be done given a more normal work and family schedule. Nothing over the top. This is a real world test and any crazy under-washing or extra car washes that people do not do on a regular basis, to me, is not realistic. Seeing how the vehicle fairs each year, back to back, for two complete years would be a real and an excellent confirmation of the product performance and amount of time amd effort spent to protect a car/ truck versus no treatment on the passenger-side. How you apply it of course is a variable factor - I realize there are lots and lots of factors. IF SOMEONE HAS DONE THIS or something close to it - please point us all to it for viewing.
4DIYers That's true... avoid rubber components if possible. Fact is, tire professional advise against using gloss polishing product which encourage cracks on tire surface ! Just auto shampoo !
Yep, I learned about that one last year when I had new tires installed. I actually mentioned it in my tire shine video and it states right in the warranty that it can be voided if a tire shine is used. Apparently some are acceptable, but it's best just to be safe and not use it.
the over 15 year old rubbers are most likely due for replacement anyways so nothing will be lost if they dry up. rather buy a few rubbers than expensive repair that is always done half assed
waaay back in time garages would offer an undercarriage kerosene spray when you got an oil change. Of coarse you wouldnt want to get near exhaust, but you really wouldnt anyways. When i was a teen in the 70's An old timer with a rust free 57 T bird told me that & he also used motor oil in body cavities every fall, he drove that car thru every New England winter with no hint of rust
6265 Mopar its good stuff smells abit for a week or two...but sticks good...its designed to stick to motorbike chains...i spray inside doors box sections.insude sills etc
Dirty Harry - +1 on that. Also very sticky is air filter oil and like the chain oil holds in there quite well. Either case both are relatively expensive.
WD40 becomes "dry" fast. It's good for rusted bolts removal or door mechanism when is going crazy in winter, but lubricantion is temporary. I would use calcium grease instead.
I changed tires yesterday and cleaned the brakes with brake cleaner and then sprayed everything down with silicone spray except for the calipers and rotors.
I'M WAITING UNTIL THE DIY MARKET HAS A SPRAY GUN TO SHOOT FRAMES AND THE UNDERSIDES OF CARS TO USE SLURRY AND HEAVY BED LINER SHIT WORKS WONDERS ON COATING A TRUCK OR CAR FRAME. THEN SPRAY THE TRANS FLUID OR MOTOROILS ON THAT... WORKS 4 ME...
I believe there are guns available on the market for undercoating. Although some of those solid rubber style coatings can trap moisture and cause rusting. Just a bare oil spray over a painted surface at least allows that moisture to dry. Don't forget to subscribe :)
Bondo wd40 is not a lubricant, but it is an oil dissolved in a solvent. the solvent will evaporate but will leave an oil film. which like truckerjoe said wont last long. but its good enough for waterproofing engine parts while you put an engine together or to put on tools if you dont have anything else.
Good method but rust happens. Kids making rust cancer jokes either have mommy and daddy pay for their vehicle and gas or have a junker and make fun of you're rust. I got a 2500 hd with rust and kids make fun of it but at the end of the day mines worth more then there piece of shit trucks...
Not always the case I paid for my own truck it's not completely rust free but it's dependable(I hope) and I paid $1000 for it with 107k miles and fixes the brakes and front end (over 500 in parts) people will make fun of me for driving a baby blue ranger but I don't give a fuck so they can hate all they want (that's why I don't have an exaust pipe ;) ( )
It provides a form of rust protection that doesn't dry, penetrates any bare metal, provides a light barrier against stone chipping, and will not trap moisture. If you were to use an asphalt or rubberized coating, while it will keep everything looking good from the outside, moisture can work in behind the coating causing severe rot issues.
Great video! I did an oil based rust proofing on my car and wanted to cover up more areas to get me through winter. Your video is very informative. Thank you a million times over 🙏
No problem, happy to help :)
I oil my car/truck with hydraulic 32 mixed with 10w40. Compressed air and a suitable air oilcan. Always use NEW oil. I spray about 3 Litres underneath and in the frame rails each year. My 1996 ram/cummins is still mint underneath , greetings from Finland :)
What about used oil?
@@justjoshin5140 If u spray used oil under ur car, it will rust out. Contains contaminants/residue that isn't good. New oil is the way 2 go.
@@justjoshin5140 Why not wash your dishes or clothes with the contents of a septic tank? Same principle. Use clean oil.
the truck/car producers should do a better job and this problem wouldnt exist-with nowadys technical solutions rust doesnt need to be an issue-but people would keep their vehicles for too long if they didnt rust...so this poor undercoating happens on purpose across the industry to crank on sales... thanks for the tips.
Glad to help out and I agree! Seems like so many new vehicles now have a major issue rusting and it doesn't make it any easier when they're using a thinner gauge too.
2233golf2 why new ford are aluminum
Only the sheet metal...frame is still steel. Plus aluminum can still "corrode" (what you call "rust" if it isn't iron-based.) Plenty of aluminum-skinned airplanes are deemed "unairworthy" due to corrosion. Aluminum alloys (i.e. 7075 or 6061) are more prone to corrosion than pure aluminum is.
Average consumer now a days keeps a car no longer then 3 to 5 years
This is one of the dumbest things I have ever heard...
Number 1 seller.......fluid film
Instead of covering the wheels, I would removed them (one at a time for safety,) to slide better access to more areas. Also a good idea to clean lug/nut threads at this time.
I did this all over my car bottom. It worked out great, but don't spray the exhaust pipes or it'll smoke. It'll be fine when it burns off, but it does smell bad.
Thank you for the feedback :)
Thanks for posting. Very informative, off to buy a couple of cans now!!
Awesome to hear and happy to help :)
how did you like it?
Where do you buy this stuff?
Straight down to clear instructions, great vid.
Thank you!
Bar and chain oil works better at less than half the price.
Great tip, thank you for sharing!
Works better?
Or PB Blaster.
Richard Crainium i
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
you're one of the few people I see on here smart enough to be using the right kind of product. You will need like 20 cans to do the truck though... Which is a fine thing to do. However if you take it to a place like Krown or rust check, they do good work... They will even drill into area's that you can't get to and mist inside.
These places are so confident with their products if you get it oil sprayed yearly from new, they will fix any rust that may occur on the body.
Thank you! I've always made it a habit to when removing body panels to apply an oil spray in behind to help prevent future rust too. I've owned quite a few vehicles which were oil sprayed, you get dirty quick when working on them, but it saves the body. My one car which is an 84 with almost 300,000km, while the clear coat is worn, the car is original and there isn't any rust. It's been oil spray for a good portion of it's life.
yup I live in a rust belt, where it's huimid and the roads are salted all winter, I have an 86 land cruiser with 350 000km on it, it has rust, but no holes.... I see GM's that are only a few years old with rocker panels totally rotted off.
im always looking for long term testing of stuff like this, glad you mentioned it
Great tutorial thanks for your help
No problem!
do u not spray catalytic conveerter
Great vid Back to Basics
Thank you!
I heard transmission fluid works good too.
The biggest issue is that it'll eat away rubber components. So it's not something I'd typically recommend.
I just used synthetic transmission fluid Valvoline red container.ATF.from wallmart $17 good for 1 year not easy wash away even severe snow.of coarse.with cartons underneath.not to mess up.
Excellent tip, thank you for sharing!
THAT IS A GOOD TIP. MY BUDDY HAS A HUMP BACK WRECKER HE CARRIED HIS STOCK CAR ON IT FOR YEARS LIKE I DID MINE AND THAT IS WHAT HE TAUGHT ME TO USE ON MINE TO THIS DAY TO PRESERVE THEM. OTHER THAN HAVING MY CABINET DOORS REMOVED AND POWDER COATED THEM I ALSO HAD MY GALVANIZED RAMPS WERE CUT OUT WAY BACK WHEN... ALL THE BAD OR BENT RAMP SUPPORTS WERE ALSO CUT OUT AND REDONE WHEN IT WAS CUT APART AFTER IT WAS PAINTED THE TRANSFLUID WAS APPLIED LIKE THE FIRST TIME WAS IN 1998 OR SO A FEW TIMES AFTER THAT TOO. IT'S STILL GOOD WITH VERY LITTLE RUST CAME BACK EVEN WHERE THE WELDS ARE AT. WE ALSO CUT THE CAB FLOORS & MOUNTS OUT AT THE SAME TIME. WORKED WONDERS COATING IT WITH RUSTOLEUM BACK WHEN IT WAS WORTH A FUCK TO USE IT BACK THEN WE USED THE TRANSFLUID OVER THE RUSTOLEUM ON THE UNDERSIDES OF THE FLOOR PLANS WE USED AN OLD CAN SPRAY GUN NOT EVEN GRAVITY FED GUN BACK THEN WE HAD THEM OLD CAN GUNS AND SHOT IT. NOW DAYS IF YOU SPRAY TRANS FLUID ON RUSTOLEUM THE SHIT WILL PEEL OFF SO I USE ACRYLICS MIX IT WITH BED LINER SHIT AND BRUSH IT ON. YOU CAN SPRAY OIL ON THE MIX OF THE BED LINER STUFF AND IT HOLDS UP AMAZINGLY WELL IT REALLY DOES. DOESN'T PEEL IT OFF EITHER AND I USE EPOXY PRIMER AS WELL OFTEN TIMES I MAKE MY OWN MIX OF URETHANE EPOXY PRIME AND MIX PRIME ETCH IN THAT... I HAD A FEW FAILS DOING THAT DEPENDS ON THE BRAND OF EPOXY PRIMER I BUY. WHEN MIXED WITH AN ETCH THE PRIMER HARDENS THRU AND THRU FOR FRAME AND UNDERSIDE WORK AND WHAT YA PUT ON IT STICKS WELL. I DON'T GO OVERBOARD USING ALOT OF HARDENER IN THE EPOXY PRIMER THE XYLENE IN THE BED LINER AND ACRYLICS SEEM TO BITE INTO THE PRIMER BETTER THAN IF YA USE ALOT OF HARDENER IN THE PRIME. THE END RESULTS ARE A REALLY HARD DURABLE FINISH...
Vehicle manufacturers purposefully avoid rust prevention due to cost. Statistics show most people trade or sell prior to rust . Any preventative measures done after vehicle has been driven are almost completely useless as road dust etc within box frame , crimped body panels etc will not be completed due to difficulty to properly coat with adequate mils of material. Honest rust proof staff will tell you the same .
Probably better to spray on a rust converter encapsulator.
Yes, I just found that out. Huge mess underneath. Hard to work on
I usually spray rust reformer and then fluid film on top of that.
thinkin about doin some fluid film to this '97 nissan i just bought. it's only got 73 thousand miles and is pretty clean. does anyone know if these lanolin sprays are bad for cv boots and rubber bushings?
No problem. Avoid petroleum based sprays/oils on those boots (I cover mine and use it anyway, along with bushings, plastic spring bushings, all plastic and rubber parts... I use the more expensive stuff only in these areas to save $$$
amazing just amazing thx for this beautiful information
+dhol factory Thank you.
hi can u make video on noisey suspension how to fix a balljoint noise while turning the wheels specially in winter season. thnx
Sure it's fast... But we'll staited... Instead of a half hour of rambling... It's a skill and ya nailed it. Great video
699 likes and now 700 cheers
Awesome to hear and thank you so much for the support :)
some friends of mine use used motor oil in a paint gun to do there trucks the whole underneath then they take the truck down a dusty road a few times works really good but i wouldn't do it to mine being i work on all my own an just taking one bolt out you could come out from underneath there looking like you just got done taking the whole engine out lol
Never spray with used motor oil, the engine contaminations in the oil do almost more harm than good. Use new oil, for example 10w40 mixed with hydraulic 32
Wat if I decide to paint the frame? Can I apply this method for this winter and then paint the frame next summer when I get time?
I would advise painting the frame first. Here is my tutorial on that ua-cam.com/video/L48P2jlOQmQ/v-deo.html
Nice video.Will it slow rust down where it already exists?
Thank you. Yes it will slow down the rust. The only way to completely stop it is to strip the rust and then seal the metal with a paint.
Have you or anyone else here tested this product over time? results?
Nice vid.
Are these ramps from some kind of plastic? How safe they are?
+jw200 Thank you.
Yes they are. Never had any issues, although they can slide if there is ice on the ground. These are about 10yrs old and surprisingly enough have no cracks, chips, or even deep scratches. I absolutely love them and would recommend them.
They are safe but I'd recommend also chocking the rear tires. Especially if they are in snow/ice like this one.
WAL-MART. THEY ARE CALLED RINO RAMPS.. THEY HOLD UP FOR LIGHT CARS NOT GOOD FOR WORK TRUCKS LIKE MY 2500 EXPRESS VAN ON SILVERADOS... THE RAMPS TEND TO COMPRESS ALOT WITH A PICKUP OF A VAN ESPECIALLY WITH TOOLS TOOL BOXES AND LADDERS...
Another method that I have used is to remove the rust with sandpaper of a grinder, clean it and paint it with the cheap matt black spraypaint, which costs 5USD per can. This will last for about a year or more.
+Daniel San Excellent tip, thank you for sharing. But the only issue I would see is that is wouldn't be able to provide a protective layer inside any frame rails, inside doors, etc.
Save your used motor oil , thin it down with some diesel fuel , put it in an fertilizer sprayer , spray every year before winter
+tracycolorado I have heard of good results using that method. But I have also heard rumours that is can sometimes wash away very easily during any rainy weather.
what if you dont thin it down? would it still stick in the rain?
Use Eastwood rust encapsulator
Chris talton does this work good... n how many times do I go over the rust?
I went over it twice
Intheevening 123 I've used it for 2 straight seasons. Used the red color. Live in a salty region & so it flakes up after 2 years! It certainly helps prevent the acceleration but not completely stop rust!
quality product... expensive tho
THANKS FOR THE TIPS
No problem, and thank you for the feedback! Don't forget to subscribe.
I've been looking for a non flammable spray lube that won't cause paint damage. So no silicone
How about Fluid Film or Woolwax wont hurt paint
@@kurtnulf3362 I will have to try wool wax I didn't have much luck with fluid film it actually caused rust on a few parts that I had. I like to use oils on Motor Parts and other metals to prevent corrosion so something non-flammable would be best.
What about cleaning the frame up really good then painting it then oiling it would that work too?
Yes you can do that as well and I do have a video on this ua-cam.com/video/L48P2jlOQmQ/v-deo.html
There was a little bit over spray on the exhaust and muffler is it problem
Any light amount will most likely just burn off. You can give it a light wipe with a rag.
Where do you buy the oil spray undercoating I looked and can not find it thanks
Look in cheap dollar shops.
Do you recommend spraying the underside protectant after any salt comes in contact with it??
I would pressure wash it first, allow it to dry, and then apply the coating.
Damn bro you speak fast lol, good video though
Haha, thank you :)
He is just reading the can.
it is raid-iator, not radd-iator lol
Grt video but where can I get that can that you used and what would you recommend to undercoat
Thank you. I believe you can go to Gumout's website and they have a listing of retailers which are located in your area.
use cheap oil. walmart or even motor oil.
dollar store oil lol
great video, luckily I have the holes made from krown so I'm just gonna pop em open and spray away!
+Tankysan The pre-drilled holes definitely make it much easier and thank you.
hi, where do i find the gumout pro film spray? please thanks.
+Tulsie Ramroop Walmart does carry some Gumout products, along with Home Hardware, NAPA Auto parts, Canadian Tire, Uni-Select, and Auto Value, etc, or you can purchase it online as well.
I use CRC power lube and WD-40 is that a bad idea?
It's better than nothing man I did the same thing waiting for better weather to get underneath with a wire wheel and some paint myself
I get my car krowned every year. in the wheel wells there is quite a thick layer of oiled diet and sand from each year that builds up over the metal and plastic liner. should I.pressure wash that off each year or leave it?
'dirt
+mraccord92 Before or during the winter I would leave that protection on. But afterwards or before a new oil spray it can be cleaned. Normally what I do is use Spray Nine, apply it in the fender well, allow it to soak in, and then pressure wash it.
Thanks. Some say leave it on its an extra layer that keep building, but I would think it would be better to eventually wash that on in the spring after the salt has been washed away for the summer and start with a clean surface for the rust proofing next year.
+mraccord92 Some of those layers can get quite thick if they don't have a way to wear off. It's not really hurting anything, but personally I like to have cleaner fender wells.
well if you had to work on the truck with all that gunk on there you will curse yourself out lol
fluid film works good
Wat is fluid film?
@@gregl2249
google fluid film. good stuff .
Can we use D-W40
a question. When you spray inside tight drain holes, would this product not create uneven coverage(high around the hole and none farther away), effectively blocking the drain hole - which would make the problem worse?
Also, will this product attract dirt, thus, again, defeating the purpose?
It won't plug drain holes or pool up water. For that you'd have to apply a very thick layer and the chances of it staying a thick layer would be slim. It will attract some dust which isn't a problem as it'll leave basically an oily skin, protecting the surface.
Does anyone know why this Gumout Pro Film is out of stock everywhere?
Might be due to Covid, either their production plant was closed or one of the ingredients may not be available. There's a lot of production and supply issues with various products. There was a big supply problem with one of the most common micro chips used in vehicles just recently due to the pandemic.
whats the diffrence between this stuff and wd40? i use the the wd40 in the big blast can. i take a can in each hand (no jack just a skateboard and a welding mask) and get crazy with it on the undercarriage! its always worked just fine for me.
I’m guessing this product was never used on this truck before lol
The truck has seen a lot of gravel roads in it's past life sadly, but ironically for a Ranger the body is almost perfect.
Nice! Summer project... yup
Thank you :)
Thank you
doesnt dirt and stuff stick on it like when you have an oil leak?
Yes it will, but it helps keep the oil in place while providing a protective layer. Don't forget to subscribe :)
What if you painted on veg oil? Probably not a long term solution but if people are spraying used motor oil under there car why not veg oil.
I haven't tried it so unfortunately I can't be much help. Another option which I have used and works is linseed oil.
I was thinking vegetable oil too, it's cheap and eco friendly. I think the main downside is it may attract rats and mice. I have pet rats and whenever I grease their wheel with veggie oil they go bonkers licking it off.
@@lordfumblesquid I made a mix of beeswax and soybean oil and that one lasted a long time and I can see places on my frame where it's still there 3 years later, but I had to put it on with a brush as the gun clogged. I also tried making my own fluid film more or less last winter too by looking at the SDS and that will work but it's short term as it will wash off quick. So probably any non-drying oil you put on there won't last that long. I tried a couple of layers of a drying oil followed by a layer or two of non drying. I'll see how it works.
Hello, kinda scared to DIY my own car, as stupid as this sounds I just need to clean underneath my car with power washer, maybe degreaser and spray this right?
Just ordered some cans of oil based spray like yours and need some advice beforehand (like not spraying on the radiator). Any tips would be appreciated! 🙂
No need to be scared, while it may seem daunting, there's really no wrong way to do this. We all have to start somewhere :) Just be careful around areas such as the brakes, exhaust, and belts. Yes you can pressure wash the underneath of the vehicle. I'm currently putting together a new oil spray video, but it involves using a professional style applicator gun. I went down to my local carwash where they use hot water and they have a filtration system so you're not washing off old oil spray onto the ground. I used a degreaser which comes from my detailing supplier, sprayed the underside of the truck, let it soak in for a few minutes, this continued to wash the underside. Take the vehicle for a highway drive after to promote drying, even give it a couple days so it dries, then apply the oil spray.
@@4DIYers Hi, thanks for replying, I really appreciate it! I've just got some degreaser as well. Next time I have weekend off I'll plan to spray half of the car (with my small carjack), and other half later :)
how long does it last?
Should last a year depending on your climate and what areas are exposed.
Doesn't last long makes dirt stick to it so then if you go to work on it your truck is all dirty underneath just go take it to get linex underneath or put it on yourself and that lasts a long time and will not rust
what about using WD 40
No it wouldn't be able to withstand the excessive water/moisture.
@@4DIYers regular wd40 won't , but have you try some different wd40 product lines ?
A gallon of fluid film is a much better solution
figured this vehicle would leak so much oil that it wouldnt need a spray, its self spraying, how about that huh?
Has anyone tried wd-40 for this? Does wd-40 tend to sell rubber much? I'd like to do this to my truck and sxs every little bit and I have some wd-40 laying around at about all times.
wd40 5 bucks can. use any oil thats cheap.
Thanks but it ceases to amaze me that on all of my Google searches there are no long-term testing results shown doing this in a rather simple control testing set-up. What are or would be the results after 1 to 2 years, the treatment side versus no treatment on a test vehicle?
Yes, I am in favor of doing it. Makes sense it would help. But what are the actual demonstrable results before and after from testing on a scarificed, real-world utility truck (for example) or normal passenger car like a small SUV driven as it normally would (5,000 to 6,000 miles or so for the winter), under regular working and commuting conditions in a Michigan, New York, Pa., Ohio salt-covered winter road exposure?
Also, it is more reputable to use ONE previously slightly rusted car to see how it either slows down more rust and corrosion versus not applying it. Using two different models, brands, or age of vehicles, to me, is not as trusted. I want to see how the same car looks after treatment (1/2 treated versus 1/2 not treated).
So here would be my dream test if I could afford it: Find a mechanically working Ford or Chevy medium duty (nothing special) work truck that has already rusted on the underside, on running boards and wheel wells etc. Using one half as the control and one half as the to be sprayed half, spray one-half of the car with fluid film or this stuff and leave the other half alone. Only pre-treatment would be to power wash the underside and parts and let thoroughly dry before application. make sure to take pictures up close of the control and treated areas and entire condition of the vehicle PRIOR to spraying the treatment. Mark the date, the temp applied etc. and any important factors like dry time, etc.
From front bumper to back bumper divide (not physically of course) the vehicle down the middle for the 1/2 & 1/2 test. Driver-side use the fluid fillm or this recommended spray and on the passenger-side leave it completely alone. To be fair, if the tester thinks it would be more impressive to see actual results by only applying to the more rusted parts or the more rusted 1/2, then do so if it is different than the 1/2 I am mentioning here. In any event control the testing, note what you are doing, to do it right.
Normally the driver-side of a vehicle will receive more muck splashing and road debris from other cars. The driver-side is generally more exposed to other passing cars. Make sure the test begins before any snow and salt treatments, such as at the end of August or Sept. and ends at the end of April.
Do normal washing as can be done given a more normal work and family schedule. Nothing over the top. This is a real world test and any crazy under-washing or extra car washes that people do not do on a regular basis, to me, is not realistic.
Seeing how the vehicle fairs each year, back to back, for two complete years would be a real and an excellent confirmation of the product performance and amount of time amd effort spent to protect a car/ truck versus no treatment on the passenger-side. How you apply it of course is a variable factor - I realize there are lots and lots of factors.
IF SOMEONE HAS DONE THIS or something close to it - please point us all to it for viewing.
Thier is a comparison on UA-cam, He tried several products. Search underbody protection.
Go to a junk yard and look at vehicles that leak oil.
Wherever there's oil there's no rust.
In the old days, used motor oil is used for rustproofing !
Unfortunately engine oil will dry out rubber components though.
4DIYers That's true... avoid rubber components if possible. Fact is, tire professional advise against using gloss polishing product which encourage cracks on tire surface ! Just auto shampoo !
Yep, I learned about that one last year when I had new tires installed. I actually mentioned it in my tire shine video and it states right in the warranty that it can be voided if a tire shine is used. Apparently some are acceptable, but it's best just to be safe and not use it.
the over 15 year old rubbers are most likely due for replacement anyways so nothing will be lost if they dry up. rather buy a few rubbers than expensive repair that is always done half assed
waaay back in time garages would offer an undercarriage kerosene spray when you got an oil change. Of coarse you wouldnt want to get near exhaust, but you really wouldnt anyways. When i was a teen in the 70's An old timer with a rust free 57 T bird told me that & he also used motor oil in body cavities every fall, he drove that car thru every New England winter with no hint of rust
you cant buy it any where!
i use motorcycle chain wax oil.
6265 Mopar its good stuff smells abit for a week or two...but sticks good...its designed to stick to motorbike chains...i spray inside doors box sections.insude sills etc
chain wax oil is pretty expensive though. how much longer does it last vs using old motor oil?
Dirty Harry - +1 on that. Also very sticky is air filter oil and like the chain oil holds in there quite well. Either case both are relatively expensive.
Could you use WD40?
Nope. It doesn't have the resistance to withstand excessive moisture/weather.
WD40 becomes "dry" fast. It's good for rusted bolts removal or door mechanism when is going crazy in winter, but lubricantion is temporary. I would use calcium grease instead.
I changed tires yesterday and cleaned the brakes with brake cleaner and then sprayed everything down with silicone spray except for the calipers and rotors.
Fluid Film or Krown
Wanna buy my case of fluid film? So done with it. Flakes off rust, attracts sand, jack almost slipped off the frame! Done with Fluid film!
Fluid film is great. My 2003 pickup is in awesome condition. I treat it every fall with fluid film..
i def wouldnt spray on jack points, or at least clean off the area with solvent
What year is that ranger?
1998
4DIYers i have a 97
Last body style of the gen 3 ;) I had a couple 95's in the past and an 89 too.
Oh I just realized, you still have the twin I beam front suspension too, right?
Nice mine has a 2.3 4 cylinder engine I paid 1000$ for it and fixed the front end now I have just some brake work left it has 107k miles
where can you buy the stuff!!!!!
NAPA
dont think so there bud!!!
i was thinking the same. thats bull poop!
And the Preparation H you get in the USA doesn't have the effective ingredient that it does in Canada.
Yeah, I know, TMI.
Removedor de óxido
Only 2 cans I would think you would need maybe 4 cans at least to do a proper job.
I'M WAITING UNTIL THE DIY MARKET HAS A SPRAY GUN TO SHOOT FRAMES AND THE UNDERSIDES OF CARS TO USE SLURRY AND HEAVY BED LINER SHIT WORKS WONDERS ON COATING A TRUCK OR CAR FRAME. THEN SPRAY THE TRANS FLUID OR MOTOROILS ON THAT... WORKS 4 ME...
I believe there are guns available on the market for undercoating. Although some of those solid rubber style coatings can trap moisture and cause rusting. Just a bare oil spray over a painted surface at least allows that moisture to dry. Don't forget to subscribe :)
Will used motor oil work lol
They say never use used oil it's full of acid that will actually promote rust.
Like fluid film
Unfortunately I've never used Fluid Film before, so I can't compare.
4DIYers It works pretty well but but I haven't used the gumout stuff either so I can't compare either. Might make a nice comparison test.
I just use my used oil.
Can i use wd40 ?
ROOF TAR IS BEST
No, WD40 is not a lube, its a solvent.
Bondo wd40 is not a lubricant, but it is an oil dissolved in a solvent. the solvent will evaporate but will leave an oil film. which like truckerjoe said wont last long. but its good enough for waterproofing engine parts while you put an engine together or to put on tools if you dont have anything else.
😮
Good method but rust happens. Kids making rust cancer jokes either have mommy and daddy pay for their vehicle and gas or have a junker and make fun of you're rust. I got a 2500 hd with rust and kids make fun of it but at the end of the day mines worth more then there piece of shit trucks...
Dylaan okay someone's mad lol
Not always the case I paid for my own truck it's not completely rust free but it's dependable(I hope) and I paid $1000 for it with 107k miles and fixes the brakes and front end (over 500 in parts) people will make fun of me for driving a baby blue ranger but I don't give a fuck so they can hate all they want (that's why I don't have an exaust pipe ;) ( )
I dont get it why TF would you want to put oil on your car...?..
It provides a form of rust protection that doesn't dry, penetrates any bare metal, provides a light barrier against stone chipping, and will not trap moisture. If you were to use an asphalt or rubberized coating, while it will keep everything looking good from the outside, moisture can work in behind the coating causing severe rot issues.
can you use motor oil in a squirt can ?
No, that will dry out the rubber components.
How long does it last for ?