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The fluid film they sale in Florida has a terrible order to it. Must be different up north. I use it on some of my epuipment but man I can’t stand the smell of that stuff ! Gotta do whatcha gotta do I guess.
I went ahead and sent the money for the postage and the tax on the prize in the comments that you posted Eric, but I haven't received any prize yet. It's been 2 weeks. If you could please check into it because I'm out quite a bit of money. Thanks
Just before I retired from US Navy (1992) they were fluid filming hidden and hard to reach areas on our helicopters. Always enjoy your videos auto and non auto related.🇺🇸🇨🇦🇺🇸
I have been using Fluid Film for several years on my wife’s Honda minivan. I recently had to remove the rear bumper cover and discovered significant rust. The rear bumper support was completely gone. I would highly recommend removing bumper covers and getting underneath.
I am now 50, Being a mechanic for the last 30 years paid off for me today yet again, My mom is now 81, She drives a 2000 Ford Windstar with 76k on it, Damn near mint, Florida will do that for old vehicles, On her way home from work, Yes @ 81 Years old she still works a 40 Hr week, Her power steering pressure line exploded all over the rear exhaust manifold, FIRE, Some good Samaritan with an extinguisher put the fire out fast enough so there was no damage ( LUCKY ) I am now disabled and unable to work as a mechanic, But yesterday I shined, Buked up and just took care of business, Van is back to perfect and now it will just take a week or so for my back to recover lol, I love you bro your videos keep me going, They make me feel whole again, Nice to see there is at least 1 honest mechanic left in the world besides myself....
It’s wild to me how unknown this kind of maintenance is especially in salt belt regions , I literally do all my vehicles myself yearly and get them Krowned every three years and although rust still forms my old Japanese made vehicles aren’t anywhere near the crusher yet. My newest is 2008 accord manual and oldest 1986 Toyota Land Cruiser turbo diesel manual. But I drive my 1998 crv manual the most. Something about the old D series gassers I just like, and it isn’t even vtec, but still zippy
yea, well, if you don't know you don't know. JUST moved to the rust belt 3 years ago with my 05 corolla, somehow still rust free but just now learning i really should be doing this to the underbody. just finished its 3rd winter completely raw. thank god it only snowed 3 days out here. but, never again.
The quality of that application is so much better than I've seen from any local shop, props to Eric for going the extra mile! If I had to add one tip for people just starting to fluid film or get their cars sprayed, if you can avoid it try not to drive in the rain after a fresh application as it'll sometimes blow it right off in the exposed areas. And if you've got some dusty back roads, they're your friend. I've always found that FF sticks way better with a layer of dirt and dust on top of it. Acts kind of like a shield
that’s the biggest problem it only works if the guy applying it does a good job . I go to a local oil change shop who uses dura shield because the local krown guy did a sh$t job
how about you use the WoolWax HV stuff that WILL NOT WASH OFF readily easy but it does collect a fine layer of dirt, but it WONT wash off NOR dripp dripp or smell nasty like FF
Fluid Film is wool wax and yeah, all stuff spplied to the underbody will get pounded by road spray. Nasty smell..nah..don't be a wiener.FFILM..protecting since the 1940's
@@vwwrenchie314 the WoolWax HV i dunked my new wheel arch molding bolts in (replaced 20yr old crusty ones) proved how wimpy that FF is for the most severe of applications in keeping salted slop off of whilst still being able to gently hose it down often, it thickens in the cold temps. the only drawback is the dirt accumulated and its a bit of a task if needed to remove because of its viscosity its very sticky. Try It Out!!
This video is perfect timing, I have a kit coming with an extra gallon. The one thing that is gonna suck is I don't have access to a lift so I have to do my truck using a creeper. I grabbed a Tyvex suit and a mask and respirator because I have a feeling I'm gonna get messy. I also got a wire brush so I can knock off some crusties. Thanks for the video. 🙂
@@QuintTheSharker I'm thinking since this will be my first time spraying this stuff I'm gonna over do it, that's why I bought the extra gallon. 🙂 hopefully when I'm done I don't look like a greased pig. 🤣😆😅
@@vwwrenchie314 I'm just being silly, I'm sure I will be OK but with any new experience comes the learning curve. Thanks for the positive encouragement. 🙂
Ive owned many vehicles in the Pacific Northwest and we had very little degradation due to the lack of salt used and Ive always heard the horror stories of rust in the NE but never had to be much concerned. This really seems like a MUST DO for all vehicles up there, unbelievable what rust can do to a perfectly good car or truck. Great video man!
I did it with 1 gallon jug and a brush for the exposed areas, and spray cans and the spray wand for the hard to reach areas.Totally doable without the fancy equipment.
Having lived in Phoenix, I am amazed at the levels of rust salt does to metal. Water as well, for sure, but I think I should be thankful for not having to even hardly use penetrating oil on anything.
I moved from Milwaukee to southern Kentucky. I am amazed at how many older vehicles they are still driving. Early 90s are common. Some 80s. Very common to see vehicles for sale with 300k on them. Still worth fixing.
I have a 68 Oldsmobile that I use as a daily here in Michigan, I've done this every year for the past 9 years of owning it and the underbody looks like its frozen in time 😁 just an fyi because you didnt show it in the video youll also want to get the inside of the front fenders just behind the front wheels, typically you'll see alot of leaves and other junk build up in there and youll need to blast it out with a compressor.
Thank goodness we Aussies from down under don't have to salt our roads. but coastal living can play havoc on cars still. I'm lucky. I'm 50 miles inland and all we get is rainwater and regular dirt. Still, good to know about fluid filming. Thanks Eric.
I watched a video you did a couple years ago doing the exact same job on your truck and have always meant to go back and watch it again. Thanks for posting this and all the links for the parts you used. Always, much love from Canada (the other salt belt). Great job Mr. O!!!
Been doing it myself to the family cars (7) for years. Ramps, compressor, spray gun and I swear by it. I buy the 20 litre barrel that lasts for 2 years. My driveway will never rust either!
Very good ! I did mine last fall and got that gun from WW and used surface shield with the gun, then where the holes were too small I got the small adapter you showed and some cans. it's worth it. put a big harbor freight tarp down and park on it, then go to it :- ) ( edit: use ramps, be safe! ) Worth one afternoon of time for saving your frame and increasing resale because it's not rotted ! Great video as always, Eric !!
2 small points: if you mark 1 foot lengths (tape ; indelible marker) on your long insertion hose... makes it easier to judge where the tip is. /// higher air pressure helps the "fogging" effect on internal compartments.
@@shaneanderson1036 Read the rest of the comments you DF.......do you know what rust proofing is? Maybe you live in AridZona and you don't have rust, the rest of the country including Canada knows about rust. He gave a tip for everyone, if you don't like it don't watch
Back tires looked almost spanked..should have fluid filmed those too because that steel is going to poke through! Don’t want that rusting. Always love your videos! Thank you for the hard work.
Just want to say thanks for this one! I ordered a spray gun and application wand set on Amazon plus a gallon of fluid film. I have a case of spray cans, but I see that isn't completely what I need to do it right. Much appreciation! I have a new 2022 I need to treat before winter sets in!
When I first started watching you Eric, I couldn't believe that a car could rust so quickly in your areas because here in Australia, we don't have that problem unless it is a 4wd that frequents the beaches or is a seasoned fisherman on Fraser Island inlike where you are with all of the snow falls in your winter and the solution they use on the roads to stop ice and snow buildup. When I saw a 10yo car on one of your videos that was close to being just a rusted heap underneath I think about how pristine the underside of my 22yo Holden wagon looks and no sign of rust to be seen and we never have a hard time removing nuts and bolts during repairs or maintenance. Also, the general populous will keep their cars for a long time, some as long as 30-40 years, especially the older folk whether it would be because they can't afford another vehicle or they are happy with the vehicle they already have and they know it's condition very well. Side note, cars built back in the 60's, 70's and even the 80's are commanding high prices (10 of thousands of dollars up to 6 figures for the rare late 60's and 70's muscle cars like the Ford GTHO Phase 1, 2 or 3 or even the Holden A9X or SLR5000 Torana's) at sales and auctions because people are just loving the older style cars again. And they are also an investment opportunity.
Eric, I appreciate your diagnostic skills and love your videos. Today, I solved a problem I’ve been having for awhile. 2005 Mustang GT, parasitic battery drain. After following wiring diagrams and not finding a module that could explain the drain, I noticed a non-Ford module under the dash. Turned out it was a GPS tracker. Removed it and problem solved. So I realized that wiring diagrams cannot always solve your problems. As you know, sometimes you have to look for the DIY or aftermarket guy’s stuff. I am so happy to find the solution but I’m pretty sure you would have found that faster than I did. In any case, it comes down to following the logic rather than following the book. I think you’re a smart man.
.Greetings from down the road in NYS. You motivated me to do this last year and am at it again this year, creeper and all. Trying to keep the NYS salt demon from dissolving the cars. Thanks Eric
Even though I do this every year I learned some tips I never would have thought of like removing the sill plates! I thank you for that sir and another great informative video as always
I have a 2011 Avalon and drive in canada, I have it oil sprayed yearly and it is still mint. I recommend you do your car to if you live in the rustbelt ;-)
They had something like that back in the mid 70's, but they recommended the vehicle be done while new so you didn't trap salt against the frame. My friend worked in a Goodyear shop and treated my brand new Ford pick-up. The product he used was thicker, and because it was my truck he really put it on thick.. It plugged up all the door drains, tail gate got real heavy and oozed that stuff for a long time. Never knew if it did any good. The truck was stolen and found 8 states away about 4 months after being taken. Girl claimed the "owner" gave her permission to drive it. When she realized she was facing multiple counts of interstate theft she rolled over on the warehouse she picked it up at and the warehouse she was taking it to.
I'm glad you showed this. I used the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating on the rockers when my car was new. It made the interior smell so bad I used two interior foggers on it. Then it still rusted out in the same place as the others of this model. In fact I'd say it did it a little quicker than most. It's about to get patch panels and this time I think I'll go with Fluid Film.
I sometimes see a Rust Belt Vehicle coming through my area, relative New Vehicle with 1/4 Panels rusted out. Glad that here in the South we don't have to Deal with Salt All Winter. I sympathize with you people that Live Up North...
I couldn’t tell if you were using the black fluid film or the the regular clear underneath. I’ve been using fluid film on my mint 2000 4Runner ever since you recommended it several years ago. I live in rust city too here in the Northeast. Keep up the great work!
if doing alot of these an airless paint sprayer works awesome. you can often find a secondhand one cheap. the PB blaster surface shield sprays a better the fluid film especially when it is cold. both are lanolin based products
@@Eastahtata it the bulk PB sprays alot easier than the Fluid Film and lays out nicer. both are good products, but Fluid Film can be a pain to spray when cold. in the past ive warmed it up with a presto pot, but now i just use the PB which never needs to be warmed.
Some excellent tips and after watching this whole video I'm going to revisit my car again on some areas i had never thought of so thanks Eric, I'm using Bilt Hamber Dynax UC on the underside and Dynax S50 for the cavities, here in Scotland we typically get a lot of salt also.
This stuff works.....for really crusty vehicles it helps to do the first spraying wth something that thins the gloopy Fluid Film. WD40 is good as a thinner and helps the FF soak into the crusty rust and small cracks. A really hot day also helps keeping the mix runny. Ideally heavy scale should be knocked off with a needle descaler as heavy scale won't be penetrated and rust can still form. Some soft plastics will swell with this mix but thats a small price to pay. It also stops electrical green and crustys including the conversion of ground straps to powder I'm running a 285k miles 1998 Ford Exploder and a 1988 Mercury Colony Park deep in the rust-belt north of Boston and yet haven't had to make any corrosion-related repairs for years. Be aware though, Eric's comment "It ain't going to be pretty; you're gonna be a mess." is quite the understatement. If you're going to apply a 'liberal coating' of the stuff, expect to trash-can the clothes you use and be prepared to scrape greasy rings off the tub for the next few days. But is it worth it? Absolutely!
Southern Pennsylvania here and I started to do this every fall to my 2020 Tacoma since it was new. Still looks good and hopefully it stays that way. It took me 6cans to do my truck the first time 4 cans to touch it up the next year and spray some places I didn't get the 1st time. Really thought a lot of the under body still had some FF hanging on to the metal.
Great, timely video just bought a 2001 ranger in good condition. I will be doing this procedure before the salt flies. Thanks for putting the best automotive repair videos on UA-cam!
Fluid Film is a great product! Never been one for the "Mechanic in a can", but this stuff works wonders. Frozen bolts? Just let the FF do the hard work, so you don't have to. Works well to rejuvenate rubber seals and plastic parts. Great for battery and ground connections. Makes good chain lube, and it's great for cleaning your guns too! Also, it can be used on food production machinery.
Good for underneath mower decks. And I had a window air conditioner I leave in my window all yr, had a rusted fan shaft. I tried PB Blaster, WD-40, nothing workd. Sprayed FF & it's STILL running! 😁
It is not recommended for rubber parts, especially natural rubber. Fluid Film is mostly composed of refined petroleum oil (see MSDS), which will swell many rubbers. The packaging says it is only safe for synthetic rubbers, but since it's almost impossible for an end-user to tell what kind of rubber is what, I would avoid using it on any of them.
I use it after polishing off hub mounting surfaces especially during brake jobs. I actually used it on my personal vehicle after cleaning the rust off the hub surfaces. Ever since then I've never had one of my wheels get stuck, and this was......7 months ago?
Good video explaining all the details which makes the application effective. I would wear a respirator and eye protection since you are atomizing the FF. Safety first.
Awesome tips Eric. The spray cans are nearly $11 each at home depot plus taxes. I usually go through 2 cans just applying it liberally in the undercarriage areas using the included straw. The straw will not suffice getting into other areas so your recommended extended flexible hose will work much better. I can forsee going through 4 cans or maybe more by applying it deeply into all those other areas you demonstrated.
This is a very common practice in North Ontario and I was always curious why the oily substance was everywhere. Now I know. Thanks for the info. Your prices are also very simular.
@@michaelkoehler269 it’s a cheap rust proofing. Just not environmentally friendly. Just save the used oil and mop away! Also if you cut used motor oil with some atf you can use it like a wood sealer and it works good for trailer decks I wouldn’t used it anywhere else since you don’t want bare skin touching that.
Northern Ontarian here. Been using Krown as an undercoating myself. I keep the more expensive Fluid Film for welds, tie rods, frame openings…. I do not like it inside doors, it is not as thin as Krown, and can actually clog up the drain holes. I also find with spraying Krown, 5CFM at 90psi works. With FF, even warmed up, you need 5.5 CFM, even more, at 110psi.
I'm a Rust Check guy, in Southern Ontario where they dump salt on the roads like crazy, been using it for 20 years or more. Bottom line spray it with something or your car is a goner.
i live in canada quebec city and my car is 2004 nissan sentra. Under the car is in perfect condition. Last year, my car needed a alignement and the guys was so happy. Usually i spray every years.
I fluid film my vehicles here in western North Carolina because of the heavy moisture (5+inches of rain this so end) and the silly brine DOT uses on the road when it does snow. Rusts cars does nothing for the snow/ice. Brake jobs are done the same way as what Mr. O has shown us. Solved a lot of brake issues.
How is the shop after your done spraying? Do you have to scrub the floors, wipe off the tool boxes or anything like that? Love fluid film and thankful for all your videos Eric!
I always put a tarp down that is big enough to go under the whole vehicle. You could just use paint drop sheet plastic as well. I have a lift that I do it on and I also drape a tarp from the vehicle (with some tape) down the sides so that the overspray is more contained.
Glad to see you use the factory access holes. When I was in my own shop and doing them I did the same thing. As you say , I would also use 3/4 to 1 gallon per vehicle on first application. Typically all subsequent applications would take 2 full bottles of my sprayer since I treated it as a “ touch” up , I wouldnt go as nuts underhood , doors etc of concealed areas and concentrate underbody where there is always wash out. Half price on those repeat customers. When I bought my ‘15 Silverado LTZ I was out of my own shop and was working for a guy , next door a Krown franchise moved in , I got them to spray my truck with specific instructions not to drill. The guys in the back doing the spray must have been on a need to know bases cause they drilled anyway. I wish I was standing thereto stop them
Eric, This looks like a lot of fun but I just take mine to Krown. In 45 minutes it is all done. My 2005 Vibe will soon receive its 18th application. Happy Spraying!😉
@@andrewdonohue1853 Krown costs me $110 per year. The yearly application is registered with Carfax and Krown offers an ongoing warranty. Most importantly, the Krown product and process works as my car is rust free after 17 very salty Ontario winters. 'Cheaper' is an interesting idea. What is a person's time worth? What can you do with your time while someone else is doing the rustproofing?
i hope the person at your local krown is doing a proper job my local krown guy sucks and now go to a oil change shop who does a way better job .oil change guy uses dura shield like krown without the drops
Advice to other diy'ers.. Not sure about bare concrete, but if you have epoxy floors, cover them. They'll turn into an ice skating rink after. Also @ 16:00 when he talks about the wand, make sure the wand you buy will fit your can. I bought a wand that didn't have a nub that sticks down, and it didn't work on my fluid film can. My fluid film can looked like a self sealing ac can, there was no little tube sticking up for the hose cap to press down on. I ended up buying a 50" shopstraw flexstraw that I cut down to around 18" since it seems to atomize or whatever a pretty well even without a brass nozzle on the end
I have a 20-year-old Pontiac Vibe up here in Canada. I take it to the DIY Car Wash once a week during the winter. The body is like new without any "rustproofing"
Around here the highway department puts down so much salt it's like driving on gravel. By late spring it's like driving off road with all the potholes. Hope that baby lasts another 20 years
I always see someone in the comments with the "just wash it" advice but haven't experienced a case of that working super well if you're one of the types who needs to daily-drive their car through the worst of the salt spray solution they treat the roads with. I wonder how it looks in all the crevices that the water sprayers aren't able to reach, or wherever else it forces the salty water you can't see. Plus rust works from the inside out, and it tends to get bad seemingly all at once. I started fluid filming once a year in the beginning of fall a couple of years ago and just don't worry about it too much, so far so good.
I recently undercoated my 2nd Gen Tacoma for the first time with wool wax black. Truck was from out west and was not eligible for the frame campaign as it did not come from a cold weather state. After a couple winters in VT the frame required a two-day scale removal job, then the process of using the WW took about 3.5 hours. Sprayed way inside the frame rails especially where it turns from a C channel to a box style, crossmembers, literally everywhere I could spray I sprayed. The WW is messy but the outcome is totally worth it. After using both FF and WW over the years I will say I prefer the woolwax for high-wear areas, and fluid film for less exposed areas because it seems to creep down into crevices better than the WW. We use Noxudol at the shop I work at, also excellent stuff. As always it was fun to watch your process Eric, great video as usual!
Interesting, I moved with my rust free ‘09 F150 to the east coast with its salt and rust 4 years ago. I’ve been using Corrosion Free every fall and so far so good no rust anywhere.
I’ve been Fluid Filming my vehicles for a couple years now after watching a SMA video. And like another guy I heat the FF a bit. It seems to run in my gun better. Thanks Dr. O.
That got me thinking about that 2019 Silverado with the corroded ground cables. Would it be a good idea to spray them? If it prevents corrosion it might save a future disaster. Just wondering. I don’t live in the salt belt.
Another kickass video. Easy for me to say I live in Oceanside, Ca LMAO. Hell it's 55 in the winter and 85 in the summer. I know it's all we can do to make it through ...... but we keep marching on.
I'm not Eric, but you're not supposed to use it on anything made of natural rubber, the petroleum in it will cause natural rubber to swell and degrade. So I guess it depends on what your bushings are made of.
I am from The Deep South. We had some Canadian Neighbors and he said where do you guys go to get your vehicles protected. I had no clue what he was talking about. He finally realized it doesn't happen here. He took his vehicle 600 miles North to find a business that did. I thought that was the craziest thing ever. Snow? Yeah we get maybe 8 inches but salting a road that's funny, what's a snow plow? Hell we are still growing vegetables in December.
Probably any areas that get the water and salt splashed on them a lot it wouldnt be a bad idea to touch those up every year. I am new to fluid film but watched some videos about it .
Every year is better but most people do it every other year and touch ups in certain areas when needed . My self and pretty much every one i know gets it sprayed in the fall october or november
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How much do you charge for the service? I live pretty close.
@@Eddavids2 he said between 160-180
Thanks for the tips Eric O, are you using the Fluid Film FFSG Spray Gun Applicator Kit in this video ?
The fluid film they sale in Florida has a terrible order to it. Must be different up north. I use it on some of my epuipment but man I can’t stand the smell of that stuff ! Gotta do whatcha gotta do I guess.
I went ahead and sent the money for the postage and the tax on the prize in the comments that you posted Eric, but I haven't received any prize yet. It's been 2 weeks. If you could please check into it because I'm out quite a bit of money. Thanks
Poor Josh had that same walk we all do once we leave the Snap-On truck.... kinda bow-legged and feeling ashamed of what we had just done.
it's called being violated....
Don’t most Snap-On trucks have a sign on their last step saying…”after this step it’s consensual”
@@SouthMainAuto Got it snaped off in his hiney
I guess he should have applied some Fluid film to make it less painful. 😂😂
Haha, I saw that and thought the same
Love the smell of Fluid Film in the morning, and when it's burning off.
I like W.D 40 especially when it gets on my cigarette yummy
Just before I retired from US Navy (1992) they were fluid filming hidden and hard to reach areas on our helicopters. Always enjoy your videos auto and non auto related.🇺🇸🇨🇦🇺🇸
Fluid film started out protecting the ballast tanks of US Navy ships in the 1940's. Made in San Fransisco
@Phillip Banes oh no. in the navy, if it doesnt move paint it. if it moves, paint it again.
Still used on the helicopters 30 years later!
Is it actually the same exact brand, or a similar type of product?
@@bryana7163 Same product.🇺🇸🇨🇦🇺🇸
I have been using Fluid Film for several years on my wife’s Honda minivan. I recently had to remove the rear bumper cover and discovered significant rust. The rear bumper support was completely gone. I would highly recommend removing bumper covers and getting underneath.
do you mean the frame beneath the bumper??
@ The bumper reinforcement is a box section of steel that bolts to the unibody. It’s a dirt and debris trap.
I am now 50, Being a mechanic for the last 30 years paid off for me today yet again, My mom is now 81, She drives a 2000 Ford Windstar with 76k on it, Damn near mint, Florida will do that for old vehicles, On her way home from work, Yes @ 81 Years old she still works a 40 Hr week, Her power steering pressure line exploded all over the rear exhaust manifold, FIRE, Some good Samaritan with an extinguisher put the fire out fast enough so there was no damage ( LUCKY )
I am now disabled and unable to work as a mechanic, But yesterday I shined, Buked up and just took care of business, Van is back to perfect and now it will just take a week or so for my back to recover lol, I love you bro your videos keep me going, They make me feel whole again, Nice to see there is at least 1 honest mechanic left in the world besides myself....
I am from the Boston Area so were not too far apart!
Awesome! Where you from near the Boston?
Man, gotta love our rusty areas
It’s wild to me how unknown this kind of maintenance is especially in salt belt regions , I literally do all my vehicles myself yearly and get them Krowned every three years and although rust still forms my old Japanese made vehicles aren’t anywhere near the crusher yet. My newest is 2008 accord manual and oldest 1986 Toyota Land Cruiser turbo diesel manual. But I drive my 1998 crv manual the most. Something about the old D series gassers I just like, and it isn’t even vtec, but still zippy
awesome collection ! bulletproof cars
yea, well, if you don't know you don't know. JUST moved to the rust belt 3 years ago with my 05 corolla, somehow still rust free but just now learning i really should be doing this to the underbody. just finished its 3rd winter completely raw. thank god it only snowed 3 days out here. but, never again.
The quality of that application is so much better than I've seen from any local shop, props to Eric for going the extra mile!
If I had to add one tip for people just starting to fluid film or get their cars sprayed, if you can avoid it try not to drive in the rain after a fresh application as it'll sometimes blow it right off in the exposed areas. And if you've got some dusty back roads, they're your friend. I've always found that FF sticks way better with a layer of dirt and dust on top of it. Acts kind of like a shield
Eric O. Eric O..he does a good job then you are good to Go!😁👍
that’s the biggest problem it only works if the guy applying it does a good job . I go to a local oil change shop who uses dura shield because the local krown guy did a sh$t job
how about you use the WoolWax HV stuff that WILL NOT WASH OFF readily easy but it does collect a fine layer of dirt, but it WONT wash off NOR dripp dripp or smell nasty like FF
Fluid Film is wool wax and yeah, all stuff spplied to the underbody will get pounded by road spray.
Nasty smell..nah..don't be a wiener.FFILM..protecting since the 1940's
@@vwwrenchie314 the WoolWax HV i dunked my new wheel arch molding bolts in (replaced 20yr old crusty ones) proved how wimpy that FF is for the most severe of applications in keeping salted slop off of whilst still being able to gently hose it down often, it thickens in the cold temps. the only drawback is the dirt accumulated and its a bit of a task if needed to remove because of its viscosity its very sticky. Try It Out!!
I like your method of avoiding drilling holes.
I've been waiting 5 years for this video
I wish there were more mechanics like you OR I lived in your town. Great work as always.
The moment when you can smell and taste a video without being there another great video from sma
This video is perfect timing, I have a kit coming with an extra gallon. The one thing that is gonna suck is I don't have access to a lift so I have to do my truck using a creeper. I grabbed a Tyvex suit and a mask and respirator because I have a feeling I'm gonna get messy.
I also got a wire brush so I can knock off some crusties.
Thanks for the video. 🙂
Lol same! I crawl under there every year and get nice and messy but hey, it’s worth it.
@@QuintTheSharker I'm thinking since this will be my first time spraying this stuff I'm gonna over do it, that's why I bought the extra gallon. 🙂 hopefully when I'm done I don't look like a greased pig. 🤣😆😅
You will be fine....the Fluid film contains wool wax and lanolin..not toxic
@@vwwrenchie314 I'm just being silly, I'm sure I will be OK but with any new experience comes the learning curve.
Thanks for the positive encouragement. 🙂
It is a bit stinky for awhile - but amazing how the fluid film sucks right into the rust .
Oh and excellent use of the word 'Douching'
Ive owned many vehicles in the Pacific Northwest and we had very little degradation due to the lack of salt used and Ive always heard the horror stories of rust in the NE but never had to be much concerned. This really seems like a MUST DO for all vehicles up there, unbelievable what rust can do to a perfectly good car or truck. Great video man!
Hope that fella got some new tires before winter
I did it with 1 gallon jug and a brush for the exposed areas, and spray cans and the spray wand for the hard to reach areas.Totally doable without the fancy equipment.
Oh man, I can SMELL this video. I spent about 4 years at a dealership doing that.
Having lived in Phoenix, I am amazed at the levels of rust salt does to metal. Water as well, for sure, but I think I should be thankful for not having to even hardly use penetrating oil on anything.
you are lucky !
Water is nothing compared to the road salt
I live in Phoenix also. I am glad we don’t have to mess with this! Cool to see the process though
And your sinuses are clear as well...lol
I moved from Milwaukee to southern Kentucky. I am amazed at how many older vehicles they are still driving. Early 90s are common. Some 80s.
Very common to see vehicles for sale with 300k on them. Still worth fixing.
Thank you for clearly explaining every step and telling how people can also do it at home! This was really helpful and down to earth. :)
I have the sprayer from wool wax but i like the flex hose you were using much better.
Hey it's the paycheque collection van in the background!
Eric, you have perfect timing. I am in Michigan and am getting ready to do this to my truck. Thank You!
I spent 11 years in the Rome/Utica area in the 80s. I wish this was available then. I'd have paid $200.00 back than. Today that's an absolute steal!!!
I have a 68 Oldsmobile that I use as a daily here in Michigan, I've done this every year for the past 9 years of owning it and the underbody looks like its frozen in time 😁 just an fyi because you didnt show it in the video youll also want to get the inside of the front fenders just behind the front wheels, typically you'll see alot of leaves and other junk build up in there and youll need to blast it out with a compressor.
Thank goodness we Aussies from down under don't have to salt our roads. but coastal living can play havoc on cars still. I'm lucky. I'm 50 miles inland and all we get is rainwater and regular dirt. Still, good to know about fluid filming. Thanks Eric.
I watched a video you did a couple years ago doing the exact same job on your truck and have always meant to go back and watch it again. Thanks for posting this and all the links for the parts you used. Always, much love from Canada (the other salt belt). Great job Mr. O!!!
Been doing it myself to the family cars (7) for years. Ramps, compressor, spray gun and I swear by it. I buy the 20 litre barrel that lasts for 2 years. My driveway will never rust either!
Very good ! I did mine last fall and got that gun from WW and used surface shield with the gun, then where the holes were too small I got the small adapter you showed and some cans. it's worth it. put a big harbor freight tarp down and park on it, then go to it :- ) ( edit: use ramps, be safe! ) Worth one afternoon of time for saving your frame and increasing resale because it's not rotted ! Great video as always, Eric !!
Watching you spray your film in all the holes was gratifying!
he likes a dirty joke.. the wife not so much.
Been watching since Hannah video days and every video is better than the last.
You should do soundshield& rustproofing
2 small points: if you mark 1 foot lengths (tape ; indelible marker) on your long insertion hose... makes it easier to judge where the tip is. /// higher air pressure helps the "fogging" effect on internal compartments.
Sold his soul away for shiny trinkets . Lol
@@shaneanderson1036 Read the rest of the comments you DF.......do you know what rust proofing is? Maybe you live in AridZona and you don't have rust, the rest of the country including Canada knows about rust. He gave a tip for everyone, if you don't like it don't watch
@@caddyrack rest of the world* =D
@@Mreque89 The K is missing......the words would have been: Don't Fucking Know. Somehow it did not complete and sent it. Sorry
First thing I did when I bought my 2024 Silverado was fluid film the underneath. Not perfectly because I'm using the spray cans.
Back tires looked almost spanked..should have fluid filmed those too because that steel is going to poke through! Don’t want that rusting. Always love your videos! Thank you for the hard work.
I was wondering if he sold him some tires. Welp fluid film kept it from rusting out but I did total it in a ditch three months later lol
hell no, those rear tires have at least 100 k miles left, maybe 200k if they watch the tire pressure and keep them balanced
Fluid Film is new to me, here in Alabama. As for salt on the roads, they ship in the salt on pallets, in bags...
Just want to say thanks for this one! I ordered a spray gun and application wand set on Amazon plus a gallon of fluid film. I have a case of spray cans, but I see that isn't completely what I need to do it right. Much appreciation! I have a new 2022 I need to treat before winter sets in!
It's nice to spray it on your electrical connection points in your harness thank you
When I first started watching you Eric, I couldn't believe that a car could rust so quickly in your areas because here in Australia, we don't have that problem unless it is a 4wd that frequents the beaches or is a seasoned fisherman on Fraser Island inlike where you are with all of the snow falls in your winter and the solution they use on the roads to stop ice and snow buildup.
When I saw a 10yo car on one of your videos that was close to being just a rusted heap underneath I think about how pristine the underside of my 22yo Holden wagon looks and no sign of rust to be seen and we never have a hard time removing nuts and bolts during repairs or maintenance. Also, the general populous will keep their cars for a long time, some as long as 30-40 years, especially the older folk whether it would be because they can't afford another vehicle or they are happy with the vehicle they already have and they know it's condition very well.
Side note, cars built back in the 60's, 70's and even the 80's are commanding high prices (10 of thousands of dollars up to 6 figures for the rare late 60's and 70's muscle cars like the Ford GTHO Phase 1, 2 or 3 or even the Holden A9X or SLR5000 Torana's) at sales and auctions because people are just loving the older style cars again. And they are also an investment opportunity.
Of the many reasons to admire you, Eri(k), is you don't know what tedium is You just do what needs to be done and you're so thorough.. well done sir
Eric, I appreciate your diagnostic skills and love your videos. Today, I solved a problem I’ve been having for awhile. 2005 Mustang GT, parasitic battery drain. After following wiring diagrams and not finding a module that could explain the drain, I noticed a non-Ford module under the dash. Turned out it was a GPS tracker. Removed it and problem solved. So I realized that wiring diagrams cannot always solve your problems. As you know, sometimes you have to look for the DIY or aftermarket guy’s stuff. I am so happy to find the solution but I’m pretty sure you would have found that faster than I did. In any case, it comes down to following the logic rather than following the book. I think you’re a smart man.
.Greetings from down the road in NYS. You motivated me to do this last year and am at it again this year, creeper and all. Trying to keep the NYS salt demon from dissolving the cars.
Thanks Eric
This should be mandatory for every vehicle in the salt belt
bar and chain oil works very well also.
Engine Storage Fogger Spray coats, sticks, and coagulates before dripping and draining out on the floor.
Even though I do this every year I learned some tips I never would have thought of like removing the sill plates! I thank you for that sir and another great informative video as always
some cars have holes with rubber bungs behind the wheel liners
Hope you do a few more rust proofing videos this year!
Thanks
I have a 2011 Avalon and drive in canada, I have it oil sprayed yearly and it is still mint. I recommend you do your car to if you live in the rustbelt ;-)
Are you using Krown?
Fluid filmed my 17 Chevy truck when new. 6 winters in Wisconsin and it still is rust free and looking new.
I have been wanting to see how your truck is doing after you sprayed it a while back.
I askd TOO! Maybe he'll show us!
Yes, show us your Tundra and how the Krown spray is holding up.
They had something like that back in the mid 70's, but they recommended the vehicle be done while new so you didn't trap salt against the frame. My friend worked in a Goodyear shop and treated my brand new Ford pick-up. The product he used was thicker, and because it was my truck he really put it on thick.. It plugged up all the door drains, tail gate got real heavy and oozed that stuff for a long time. Never knew if it did any good. The truck was stolen and found 8 states away about 4 months after being taken. Girl claimed the "owner" gave her permission to drive it. When she realized she was facing multiple counts of interstate theft she rolled over on the warehouse she picked it up at and the warehouse she was taking it to.
I'm glad you showed this. I used the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating on the rockers when my car was new. It made the interior smell so bad I used two interior foggers on it. Then it still rusted out in the same place as the others of this model. In fact I'd say it did it a little quicker than most. It's about to get patch panels and this time I think I'll go with Fluid Film.
this is the first negative IFC remark i have seen in 3+ years since i discovered the product
I sometimes see a Rust Belt Vehicle coming through my area, relative New Vehicle with 1/4 Panels rusted out. Glad that here in the South we don't have to Deal with Salt All Winter. I sympathize with you people that Live Up North...
I couldn’t tell if you were using the black fluid film or the the regular clear underneath. I’ve been using fluid film on my mint 2000 4Runner ever since you recommended it several years ago. I live in rust city too here in the Northeast. Keep up the great work!
Blaster Surface shield seems to hold up longer in some independent testing
Where did you get the FF adapter for your spray gun?
You are not alone in the North East USA Eric. Here in the North East of England much the same rust problems.
if doing alot of these an airless paint sprayer works awesome. you can often find a secondhand one cheap. the PB blaster surface shield sprays a better the fluid film especially when it is cold. both are lanolin based products
I like the way the PB sprays and applies more than fluid film also. (Out of the cans that is)
@@Eastahtata it the bulk PB sprays alot easier than the Fluid Film and lays out nicer. both are good products, but Fluid Film can be a pain to spray when cold. in the past ive warmed it up with a presto pot, but now i just use the PB which never needs to be warmed.
I'm so glad I don't have to deal with rust anymore. Well that is unless I buy a project car from near the coast or up north.
Some excellent tips and after watching this whole video I'm going to revisit my car again on some areas i had never thought of so thanks Eric, I'm using Bilt Hamber Dynax UC on the underside and Dynax S50 for the cavities, here in Scotland we typically get a lot of salt also.
This stuff works.....for really crusty vehicles it helps to do the first spraying wth something that thins the gloopy Fluid Film. WD40 is good as a thinner and helps the FF soak into the crusty rust and small cracks. A really hot day also helps keeping the mix runny. Ideally heavy scale should be knocked off with a needle descaler as heavy scale won't be penetrated and rust can still form. Some soft plastics will swell with this mix but thats a small price to pay. It also stops electrical green and crustys including the conversion of ground straps to powder
I'm running a 285k miles 1998 Ford Exploder and a 1988 Mercury Colony Park deep in the rust-belt north of Boston and yet haven't had to make any corrosion-related repairs for years. Be aware though, Eric's comment "It ain't going to be pretty; you're gonna be a mess." is quite the understatement. If you're going to apply a 'liberal coating' of the stuff, expect to trash-can the clothes you use and be prepared to scrape greasy rings off the tub for the next few days. But is it worth it? Absolutely!
Southern Pennsylvania here and I started to do this every fall to my 2020 Tacoma since it was new. Still looks good and hopefully it stays that way. It took me 6cans to do my truck the first time 4 cans to touch it up the next year and spray some places I didn't get the 1st time. Really thought a lot of the under body still had some FF hanging on to the metal.
SW PA here. 👍
Also SWPA....
SEPA
Great, timely video just bought a 2001 ranger in good condition. I will be doing this procedure before the salt flies. Thanks for putting the best automotive repair videos on UA-cam!
For anyone wondering, a 2001 in good condition in NY means that the bed is still attached to the frame. and the fenders are not cheese graters (yet)!
Fluid Film is a great product! Never been one for the "Mechanic in a can", but this stuff works wonders. Frozen bolts? Just let the FF do the hard work, so you don't have to. Works well to rejuvenate rubber seals and plastic parts. Great for battery and ground connections. Makes good chain lube, and it's great for cleaning your guns too! Also, it can be used on food production machinery.
Good for underneath mower decks. And I had a window air conditioner I leave in my window all yr, had a rusted fan shaft. I tried PB Blaster, WD-40, nothing workd. Sprayed FF & it's STILL running! 😁
It is not recommended for rubber parts, especially natural rubber. Fluid Film is mostly composed of refined petroleum oil (see MSDS), which will swell many rubbers. The packaging says it is only safe for synthetic rubbers, but since it's almost impossible for an end-user to tell what kind of rubber is what, I would avoid using it on any of them.
I use it after polishing off hub mounting surfaces especially during brake jobs. I actually used it on my personal vehicle after cleaning the rust off the hub surfaces. Ever since then I've never had one of my wheels get stuck, and this was......7 months ago?
Whatchyoo talkin bout, Willis?
That’s a terrible chain lube and ain’t no way I’m sticking any of that in my guns. Lanolin btw
USDA Approved for food?
Good video explaining all the details which makes the application effective. I would wear a respirator and eye protection since you are atomizing the FF. Safety first.
Awesome tips Eric. The spray cans are nearly $11 each at home depot plus taxes. I usually go through 2 cans just applying it liberally in the undercarriage areas using the included straw. The straw will not suffice getting into other areas so your recommended extended flexible hose will work much better. I can forsee going through 4 cans or maybe more by applying it deeply into all those other areas you demonstrated.
If you are doing an entire car you do not use the spray cans. You take it to a shop that does the treatment.
Gallon cans, $54. 5 gallons, $200 Amazon
I really needed a sma video today. Corrosion control at its finest.
What effect does that fluid have on the door speakers?
Hvaing lived on Cape Cod and near the ocean in MA it really rusts things out fast and if you park on dirt too.
$200 is a steal for that service!!!
This is a very common practice in North Ontario and I was always curious why the oily substance was everywhere. Now I know. Thanks for the info. Your prices are also very simular.
I heard that in your parts you spray the bottom of vehicles with used motor oil! Which I have considered!
@@michaelkoehler269 it’s a cheap rust proofing. Just not environmentally friendly. Just save the used oil and mop away! Also if you cut used motor oil with some atf you can use it like a wood sealer and it works good for trailer decks I wouldn’t used it anywhere else since you don’t want bare skin touching that.
Northern Ontarian here. Been using Krown as an undercoating myself. I keep the more expensive Fluid Film for welds, tie rods, frame openings…. I do not like it inside doors, it is not as thin as Krown, and can actually clog up the drain holes. I also find with spraying Krown, 5CFM at 90psi works. With FF, even warmed up, you need 5.5 CFM, even more, at 110psi.
I'm a Rust Check guy, in Southern Ontario where they dump salt on the roads like crazy, been using it for 20 years or more. Bottom line spray it with something or your car is a goner.
i live in canada quebec city and my car is 2004 nissan sentra. Under the car is in perfect condition. Last year, my car needed a alignement and the guys was so happy. Usually i spray every years.
I fluid film my vehicles here in western North Carolina because of the heavy moisture (5+inches of rain this so end) and the silly brine DOT uses on the road when it does snow. Rusts cars does nothing for the snow/ice. Brake jobs are done the same way as what Mr. O has shown us. Solved a lot of brake issues.
Wow! Cool video. I didn't even know this was a thing!! One more reason I'm thankful to live in the south!
How is the shop after your done spraying? Do you have to scrub the floors, wipe off the tool boxes or anything like that? Love fluid film and thankful for all your videos Eric!
I always put a tarp down that is big enough to go under the whole vehicle. You could just use paint drop sheet plastic as well. I have a lift that I do it on and I also drape a tarp from the vehicle (with some tape) down the sides so that the overspray is more contained.
Glad to see you use an appropriate filter to protect your lungs in the second part of the process.
Glad to see you use the factory access holes. When I was in my own shop and doing them I did the same thing. As you say , I would also use 3/4 to 1 gallon per vehicle on first application. Typically all subsequent applications would take 2 full bottles of my sprayer since I treated it as a “ touch” up , I wouldnt go as nuts underhood , doors etc of concealed areas and concentrate underbody where there is always wash out. Half price on those repeat customers. When I bought my ‘15 Silverado LTZ I was out of my own shop and was working for a guy , next door a Krown franchise moved in , I got them to spray my truck with specific instructions not to drill. The guys in the back doing the spray must have been on a need to know bases cause they drilled anyway. I wish I was standing thereto stop them
F Them for driilling those holes (thumbs down), that is why i turned and ran when the krownn place said they would drill holes into my rig
Thank goodness for southern Arizona. No rust here....not much water though either. haha. Great video.
Cheers.
Eric, This looks like a lot of fun but I just take mine to Krown. In 45 minutes it is all done. My 2005 Vibe will soon receive its 18th application. Happy Spraying!😉
doing it yourself is quite a bit cheaper
Second on my Silverado also it is applied at 150 degrees.
@@andrewdonohue1853 Krown costs me $110 per year. The yearly application is registered with Carfax and Krown offers an ongoing warranty. Most importantly, the Krown product and process works as my car is rust free after 17 very salty Ontario winters. 'Cheaper' is an interesting idea. What is a person's time worth? What can you do with your time while someone else is doing the rustproofing?
i hope the person at your local krown is doing a proper job my local krown guy sucks and now go to a oil change shop who does a way better job .oil change guy uses dura shield like krown without the drops
@@classicxl 👍
I remember my dad took his car to Ziebart and they drilled holes to spray a black tar-like coating rust prevention.
Advice to other diy'ers.. Not sure about bare concrete, but if you have epoxy floors, cover them. They'll turn into an ice skating rink after.
Also @ 16:00 when he talks about the wand, make sure the wand you buy will fit your can. I bought a wand that didn't have a nub that sticks down, and it didn't work on my fluid film can. My fluid film can looked like a self sealing ac can, there was no little tube sticking up for the hose cap to press down on. I ended up buying a 50" shopstraw flexstraw that I cut down to around 18" since it seems to atomize or whatever a pretty well even without a brass nozzle on the end
It is that time of year !
What spray gun were you using? It looks different then what you used in your video a year or two ago on spraying fluid film. I like it.
Hi Eric,
Steve Summers gave you a shout out in a recent video when he used Fluid Film on his repainted 1985 K10 pickup. You and your family stay safe.
I have a 20-year-old Pontiac Vibe up here in Canada. I take it to the DIY Car Wash once a week during the winter. The body is like new without any "rustproofing"
Around here the highway department puts down so much salt it's like driving on gravel. By late spring it's like driving off road with all the potholes. Hope that baby lasts another 20 years
I always see someone in the comments with the "just wash it" advice but haven't experienced a case of that working super well if you're one of the types who needs to daily-drive their car through the worst of the salt spray solution they treat the roads with. I wonder how it looks in all the crevices that the water sprayers aren't able to reach, or wherever else it forces the salty water you can't see. Plus rust works from the inside out, and it tends to get bad seemingly all at once.
I started fluid filming once a year in the beginning of fall a couple of years ago and just don't worry about it too much, so far so good.
Toyota did us Americans a favor with this car. Sorry, I cannot give GM any credit. I have a 2003 Vibe. Still in great shape. No rust to speak of.
Living in SoCal we don't have these issues but we can certainly appreciate the problem. Good work.
Can't beat Fluid Film, if applied correctly...🙂
I recently undercoated my 2nd Gen Tacoma for the first time with wool wax black. Truck was from out west and was not eligible for the frame campaign as it did not come from a cold weather state. After a couple winters in VT the frame required a two-day scale removal job, then the process of using the WW took about 3.5 hours. Sprayed way inside the frame rails especially where it turns from a C channel to a box style, crossmembers, literally everywhere I could spray I sprayed. The WW is messy but the outcome is totally worth it. After using both FF and WW over the years I will say I prefer the woolwax for high-wear areas, and fluid film for less exposed areas because it seems to creep down into crevices better than the WW. We use Noxudol at the shop I work at, also excellent stuff. As always it was fun to watch your process Eric, great video as usual!
Interesting, I moved with my rust free ‘09 F150 to the east coast with its salt and rust 4 years ago. I’ve been using Corrosion Free every fall and so far so good no rust anywhere.
You have introduced fluid film into my trucker life.i don't leave home without it.
I’ve been Fluid Filming my vehicles for a couple years now after watching a SMA video.
And like another guy I heat the FF a bit. It seems to run in my gun better.
Thanks Dr. O.
Yes the heat helps the Film flow so it gets where it needs to go......just don't put that plastic can on the stove..its beeb done!🤪🇨🇦
Wow! I've never seen nor heard of this process! I'll have to ask my Michigan cousins about it. Pretty wild!
what happens when that stuff gets on the windows while spraying the doors?
They imploding after some time.
I can feel it on my skin just watching you do it lol... Good ol days of undercoating.
That got me thinking about that 2019 Silverado with the corroded ground cables. Would it be a good idea to spray them? If it prevents corrosion it might save a future disaster. Just wondering. I don’t live in the salt belt.
Yes, spray it down with fluid film or wool wax!
Another kickass video. Easy for me to say I live in Oceanside, Ca LMAO. Hell it's 55 in the winter and 85 in the summer. I know it's all we can do to make it through ...... but we keep marching on.
Eric have you experienced bushings deteriorating after using fluid film?
I'm not Eric, but you're not supposed to use it on anything made of natural rubber, the petroleum in it will cause natural rubber to swell and degrade. So I guess it depends on what your bushings are made of.
fluid film will not damage bushings; it's only blown rubber door seals that react.
Periodically spray rubber parts underneath with 303 Protectant .
I am from The Deep South. We had some Canadian Neighbors and he said where do you guys go to get your vehicles protected. I had no clue what he was talking about. He finally realized it doesn't happen here. He took his vehicle 600 miles North to find a business that did. I thought that was the craziest thing ever. Snow? Yeah we get maybe 8 inches but salting a road that's funny, what's a snow plow? Hell we are still growing vegetables in December.
Hey Eric, how often does that need to be re-applied?
Probably any areas that get the water and salt splashed on them a lot it wouldnt be a bad idea to touch those up every year. I am new to fluid film but watched some videos about it .
Every year is better but most people do it every other year and touch ups in certain areas when needed . My self and pretty much every one i know gets it sprayed in the fall october or november
I was using that stuff when I was drilling holes in steel