@@thebestfamilyoutdoorshowWas able to do this install last weekend. Your method worked perfect. Thanks again for posting. The camera on mine is bigger so required a couple screws into the wood framing through the aluminum. And they send a couple elec taps so I didn’t even have to cut wires. Didn’t know they made such things.. Thanks again.
Im thinking of replacing my existing camera with a wireless and your video is helping. However, please be aware that a scotchlok UB2 connector will let you tap power off the light cable without cutting it.
That is true for all of them I bought actually. They all came with a wire tap. I just didn't end up using it. They both work well I believe because another person commented saying they used the wire tap method successfully. So which ever method you go with should be OK. Wire tap will for sure avoid cutting the cable. Appreciate you commenting! Camera install status update - I did 5 of these installs and they are working fine. So the product itself still doing its job. 👍
I installed a camera on my 5th wheel, tow vehicle was a dodge ram, couldn't get a signal? The fix was to turn my lights on in the truck, take them out of "Automatic" and that provided the power to the factory pre-wired setup in the RV camper. So, it was plug in play after all :)
Hey I am not sure why that happened. If all the running lights are off, it could be a fuse that has tripped. I am not 100% sure on this one but I think the fuse you want to check is the one for the tail lamp circuit, the one you want to check is Fuse 22 or F22 which should be a 15 amp fuse. This is located in the interior fuse panel. This is the panel behind the foot brake or emergency brake. You can usually tell if the fuse is blown by visual inspection. Most of the time if a fuse blows you can see the metal piece in the middle broken. I hope this fixes your problem.
I just read it a bit more carefully. So only the top 3 on the right died. That is odd and I am not sure why if that is the case. A few steps I would recommend is reversing the changes you did and see if the lights come back on. If not, perhaps use a multimeter and check if you are getting power to the lights. If there is power and the lights are not on, then the lights somehow broke. If there is no power, then maybe the fuse is blown or there is some wiring issues. Again, I am just really guessing. I do not know why only some of the lights would work but not all. I think all the running lights, front top and back top all are one fuse.
It is something to watch for. But for the record (for what it is worth), I installed 5 working ones. The ones that worked and installed properly are still working almost a year later. For one install, the monitor stopped working - but it turned out the cigarette lighter power adapter failed. This is a common standard part that many reverse camera's use. Seemed to be some weird QA issue, but I did get my money back on return. I have tried a few other brands since. Will be posting my experiences with them also.
Nice. This method will work great on mine too. Thanks
You bet. I also just did a wired install. Took a decent amount more. I am going to post the video soon. I prefer wireless.... just less hassle.
@@thebestfamilyoutdoorshowWas able to do this install last weekend. Your method worked perfect. Thanks again for posting.
The camera on mine is bigger so required a couple screws into the wood framing through the aluminum. And they send a couple elec taps so I didn’t even have to cut wires. Didn’t know they made such things..
Thanks again.
@markoshun That's awesome man. I am glad it worked out!
Thank you for showing this on an old rv and for every little step you took toward waterproofing and securing the camera! Great resource!
Thank you for the kind words. I am glad you found it helpful. This unit I feel is very reliable with a few modern updates.
Im thinking of replacing my existing camera with a wireless and your video is helping. However, please be aware that a scotchlok UB2 connector will let you tap power off the light cable without cutting it.
That is true for all of them I bought actually. They all came with a wire tap. I just didn't end up using it. They both work well I believe because another person commented saying they used the wire tap method successfully. So which ever method you go with should be OK.
Wire tap will for sure avoid cutting the cable.
Appreciate you commenting!
Camera install status update - I did 5 of these installs and they are working fine. So the product itself still doing its job. 👍
you forgot the part where you listen to the wife on the install list.
It's the unwritten rule... lol
@@thebestfamilyoutdoorshow just installed that on my 23 and my wires to hook up were the exact opposite of yours for some reason
@@vw2112 Thank you for noting that. I am sure someone will find this useful.
I installed a camera on my 5th wheel, tow vehicle was a dodge ram, couldn't get a signal? The fix was to turn my lights on in the truck, take them out of "Automatic" and that provided the power to the factory pre-wired setup in the RV camper. So, it was plug in play after all :)
Thank you for sharing. I am sure this is going to help a bunch of poor suffering souls out there. 👍
nice job
Thanks bud.😊
Try using wego wire connection instead of wire nuts
That would do it, those connections would be a cleaner method. Thank you for tip.
When i hooked up this unite the 3 back top running lights on the right died and nothing works now
Hey I am not sure why that happened. If all the running lights are off, it could be a fuse that has tripped.
I am not 100% sure on this one but I think the fuse you want to check is the one for the tail lamp circuit, the one you want to check is Fuse 22 or F22 which should be a 15 amp fuse. This is located in the interior fuse panel. This is the panel behind the foot brake or emergency brake.
You can usually tell if the fuse is blown by visual inspection. Most of the time if a fuse blows you can see the metal piece in the middle broken.
I hope this fixes your problem.
I just read it a bit more carefully. So only the top 3 on the right died. That is odd and I am not sure why if that is the case. A few steps I would recommend is reversing the changes you did and see if the lights come back on. If not, perhaps use a multimeter and check if you are getting power to the lights.
If there is power and the lights are not on, then the lights somehow broke. If there is no power, then maybe the fuse is blown or there is some wiring issues.
Again, I am just really guessing. I do not know why only some of the lights would work but not all. I think all the running lights, front top and back top all are one fuse.
Maybe never use that brand again
It is something to watch for. But for the record (for what it is worth), I installed 5 working ones. The ones that worked and installed properly are still working almost a year later. For one install, the monitor stopped working - but it turned out the cigarette lighter power adapter failed. This is a common standard part that many reverse camera's use.
Seemed to be some weird QA issue, but I did get my money back on return. I have tried a few other brands since. Will be posting my experiences with them also.