Thanks for video. Some add: An inductive motor (without a permanent magnets) does not produce electricity without an excitation voltage. In other words, you could spin it without the risk of damaging the inverter. But even if there was a permanent magnets motor. By default, IGBT transistors will work as a diode bridge. You would hardly be able to spin it so that the voltage on the common capacitor of the inverter would exceed the allowable one...
There could be some magnetism left (called Remanenz in German) in the rotor which theoretically induce some current into the stator windings. as you said better safe than sorry. Really like how much thought and research you put in about every step you do. If you would be a pilot I would happily fly with you. When you think about it isn't it totally amazing that two very conservative manufacturers get a new start-up with a completely new product to supply drivetrains and battery packs for their established vehicles? How did that ever happen? And while Merc does make decent EVs now days, Toyota is kinda the opposite, still dreaming of Hydrogen and fossil fuel. Just amazing.
I'm so glad I found your video - it helped me work through and find peace of mind after discovering the speed sensor test on my original LDU on my 2013 Model S. My speed sensor was wet... So, using LOTS of your guidance from your videos, website, the forums and photos I found, I just did some drain holes without removing the LDU. I filmed it and will share a link when I upload the video. Hopefully lots more people will be able to do this as well and prevent the inevitable damage from leaks!
That's awesome I'm thinking about doing the same. Could you share your experience with adding the drain holes to the motor. Your video would be a GIANT help. Thank you
You've done a hell of a job rebuilding this unit. I do wonder if it's the main o-ring that's failing, if its possible to put some fluid in the coolant and/or transmission fluid which might swell it a bit to last another few years like some guys do w/ power steering pumps. I think the emergency drains are great, because you should be able to know very quickly when a problem develops and hopefully the bearings are not destroyed quickly by the contamination. It's a huge PIA to get the car on a lift and check the speed sensor area for moisture/coolant unless you own a shop. The emergency drains could be used with a small reservoir and a sensor to alarm the owner of a problem. In theory if you can link your phone to the canbus/obd2 port you could setup a proprietary OID to alarm for this condition with a canbus sensor and a small microcontroller. I would pay hundreds of dollars for that feature if it could alert me quickly. I have some hardware with canbus support and it would not take too much to make this feature accessible. I think the question is where can the canbus (125k/s) be tapped into in the rear of the car.
The coolant seal lip is made of PTFE (Teflon), which is "compatible" with almost all chemicals you can think of, so it's highly unlikely you can find an additive that works. See for example www.foxxlifesciences.com/pages/ptfe-and-teflon-chemical-compatibility-chart.
I think with the Tesla, you do not necessarily need a car lift, but it still is a pain compared to a sensor: See a sensor concept here (buzzer and LED on dash): ua-cam.com/video/ps2gha4w5YE/v-deo.html I will ask if he sells them.
@@diyEVguy Are you using the same seal as qccharge recommends w/ the 3 lip layer? I have a bad feeling my DU when replaced in 2020 has the single lip which qccharge employee states fails early. Also, are the drains in the same spot as how qccharge installs them? They want $1750 to do an upgrade to new seals and drains. I'm considering it for that price, much cheaper than the alternative.
@@eastmanresearch3143 No, QC Charge said that they use a custom made seal: teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/posts/5280769/ Also I do not know where QC Charge puts their drains. Here is one (older?) idea (which I do not fully understand based on the photo alone), posted on Sep 6, 2021: www.myrav4ev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2332&hilit=rebuild&start=30
I think these units have sealed bearings on the motors. These bearings will fail at some point, I have not seen all your videos, but if you are doing this much work, might as well replace. Also, there is a replacement / update for the coolant bypass tube, better design that avoids the seal failure issue altogether.
Just saw the other video with the bearing repacking. No way those sealed bearings will last 100k miles. Are all Tesla motors designed with sealed bearings? I’d rather change oil than pull that motor every 100k miles.
Perfect video and accuracy in work. I am from Syria and I am trying to design this engine in the SolidWorks 3D design program, but I am facing a problem, which is that I do not have the necessary dimensions to draw and design gears, and I do not have enough insight to assemble the parts. I searched a lot on the Internet and did not find anything really useful. I drew and designed the Stator and the Rotor, but I still lack the dimensions of the structure and the rest of the parts. Can you suggest a solution to help?? I've watched all of your videos and have good ideas about the engine's internal structure, but I'm still missing the dimensions and some parts combinations.
You could buy a broken or fire-damaged drive unit from a junk yard and measure a lot but that will take you weeks. What is the goal of the 3D model? Some kind of simulation? I did not model the gears and inverter, just the electric motor segment, because that is all I needed. Also Sandy Munroe may sell 3D scans of all parts for $10000 or so. What is your budget?
Do you put soapy water on the outside to see where it starts foaming? Or just listen for a hissing sound? O wait first you just watch whether the pressure stays the same.
Excellent work, my P85D rear motor went, Tesla says it's internal motor failure, it's water damaged, they don't know where the water came from. They want 10k + taxes to fix, I'm no expert, but seems like a failed coolant seal could be the problem, this should be a class action lawsuit.
Yeah we try to get a handle on how long this motor lasts. For seal longevity data, we started this page: sites.google.com/view/teslaldu/longevity What is your plan with the car? Has the coolant destroyed the inverter electronics?
7:15 assembled gearbox and my axeks are rotating with knock knock sound like the watch, what i got to do? Sound looks like from invertor or gearbox, and i did not fix the parking break -what kind of damage i did i dont know right now... And i just thoug the park brake doesnt work
@@diyEVguy without axles mb b250 electro goes to safe mode sad i need to go to service withoutgearbox selection ,and what app do i need to delete mistakes from ebu... Elm327 i already have but cant find app to read the ebu , i think its goes to error becouse i forgot to setup the brake support on the disk , push brake pedal and its eroor i have
@@omarmalyomarmaly9323 I would recommend contacting alflash.com.ua because you can trust him, he helped me too. I have a full-time job now so I cannot help more.
@@diyEVguy just , send the message. Iput axls in the place and engage the park brake but its stil rotating and the electric motor is clicking, mb was some wrong assemling? And i need to pull out the motor? And repack it?
@@diyEVguy im looking to remove my motor Mercedes b250e for a bearings noise,im a mechanic but i have never removed one,is there any instructions video for removal?thank you for your useful videos
@@hishamqdoumi1786 For bearings, my videos should be showing the same (or at least very similar) parts and procedures as for your motor. I am very curious what you will find! Please keep me up to date. Did you check for the infamous coolant leak yet?
Thanks for video. Some add: An inductive motor (without a permanent magnets) does not produce electricity without an excitation voltage. In other words, you could spin it without the risk of damaging the inverter. But even if there was a permanent magnets motor. By default, IGBT transistors will work as a diode bridge. You would hardly be able to spin it so that the voltage on the common capacitor of the inverter would exceed the allowable one...
Thanks! I was wondering about that...
There could be some magnetism left (called Remanenz in German) in the rotor which theoretically induce some current into the stator windings. as you said better safe than sorry. Really like how much thought and research you put in about every step you do. If you would be a pilot I would happily fly with you.
When you think about it isn't it totally amazing that two very conservative manufacturers get a new start-up with a completely new product to supply drivetrains and battery packs for their established vehicles? How did that ever happen? And while Merc does make decent EVs now days, Toyota is kinda the opposite, still dreaming of Hydrogen and fossil fuel. Just amazing.
Best instructional video ever.
Thanks!
I'm so glad I found your video - it helped me work through and find peace of mind after discovering the speed sensor test on my original LDU on my 2013 Model S. My speed sensor was wet...
So, using LOTS of your guidance from your videos, website, the forums and photos I found, I just did some drain holes without removing the LDU. I filmed it and will share a link when I upload the video. Hopefully lots more people will be able to do this as well and prevent the inevitable damage from leaks!
Thanks for sharing. Glad it helped.
That's awesome I'm thinking about doing the same. Could you share your experience with adding the drain holes to the motor.
Your video would be a GIANT help.
Thank you
You've got it! Need to spend an hour or two putting it together @@krisztiankulcsar5579
when will you upload the video?
Great work
You've done a hell of a job rebuilding this unit. I do wonder if it's the main o-ring that's failing, if its possible to put some fluid in the coolant and/or transmission fluid which might swell it a bit to last another few years like some guys do w/ power steering pumps. I think the emergency drains are great, because you should be able to know very quickly when a problem develops and hopefully the bearings are not destroyed quickly by the contamination. It's a huge PIA to get the car on a lift and check the speed sensor area for moisture/coolant unless you own a shop. The emergency drains could be used with a small reservoir and a sensor to alarm the owner of a problem. In theory if you can link your phone to the canbus/obd2 port you could setup a proprietary OID to alarm for this condition with a canbus sensor and a small microcontroller. I would pay hundreds of dollars for that feature if it could alert me quickly. I have some hardware with canbus support and it would not take too much to make this feature accessible. I think the question is where can the canbus (125k/s) be tapped into in the rear of the car.
The coolant seal lip is made of PTFE (Teflon), which is "compatible" with almost all chemicals you can think of, so it's highly unlikely you can find an additive that works. See for example www.foxxlifesciences.com/pages/ptfe-and-teflon-chemical-compatibility-chart.
I think with the Tesla, you do not necessarily need a car lift, but it still is a pain compared to a sensor: See a sensor concept here (buzzer and LED on dash): ua-cam.com/video/ps2gha4w5YE/v-deo.html I will ask if he sells them.
@@diyEVguy Are you using the same seal as qccharge recommends w/ the 3 lip layer? I have a bad feeling my DU when replaced in 2020 has the single lip which qccharge employee states fails early. Also, are the drains in the same spot as how qccharge installs them? They want $1750 to do an upgrade to new seals and drains. I'm considering it for that price, much cheaper than the alternative.
@@eastmanresearch3143 No, QC Charge said that they use a custom made seal: teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/posts/5280769/ Also I do not know where QC Charge puts their drains. Here is one (older?) idea (which I do not fully understand based on the photo alone), posted on Sep 6, 2021: www.myrav4ev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2332&hilit=rebuild&start=30
I think these units have sealed bearings on the motors. These bearings will fail at some point, I have not seen all your videos, but if you are doing this much work, might as well replace. Also, there is a replacement / update for the coolant bypass tube, better design that avoids the seal failure issue altogether.
Just saw the other video with the bearing repacking. No way those sealed bearings will last 100k miles. Are all Tesla motors designed with sealed bearings? I’d rather change oil than pull that motor every 100k miles.
@@johnstuder847 early models had steel ball rotor bearings. Later they switched to hybrid ceramic bearings.
Yeah and many questions remain. Like will the rotor overheat? Is there enough statistical data from real world experience etc.
Perfect video and accuracy in work. I am from Syria and I am trying to design this engine in the SolidWorks 3D design program, but I am facing a problem, which is that I do not have the necessary dimensions to draw and design gears, and I do not have enough insight to assemble the parts. I searched a lot on the Internet and did not find anything really useful. I drew and designed the Stator and the Rotor, but I still lack the dimensions of the structure and the rest of the parts. Can you suggest a solution to help?? I've watched all of your videos and have good ideas about the engine's internal structure, but I'm still missing the dimensions and some parts combinations.
You could buy a broken or fire-damaged drive unit from a junk yard and measure a lot but that will take you weeks. What is the goal of the 3D model? Some kind of simulation? I did not model the gears and inverter, just the electric motor segment, because that is all I needed. Also Sandy Munroe may sell 3D scans of all parts for $10000 or so. What is your budget?
Love it!!
don’t use liquid for test we use air for leaks detection first close the inlet than give 2 bar air to systsem than check it with leak detection
Do you put soapy water on the outside to see where it starts foaming? Or just listen for a hissing sound? O wait first you just watch whether the pressure stays the same.
@@diyEVguy can you see my comment please share your email with me
Excellent work, my P85D rear motor went, Tesla says it's internal motor failure, it's water damaged, they don't know where the water came from. They want 10k + taxes to fix, I'm no expert, but seems like a failed coolant seal could be the problem, this should be a class action lawsuit.
Yeah we try to get a handle on how long this motor lasts. For seal longevity data, we started this page: sites.google.com/view/teslaldu/longevity What is your plan with the car? Has the coolant destroyed the inverter electronics?
Do you possibly know if the torque settings the same for a model Y front motor 14NM? I can't find anywhere that details the specifications.
@@DarrenWilliams-kk1uf people suggest using the standard engineering torque tables for aluminum for non critical bolts.
spray welding just for worn bearing journals not suitable for sealing surfaces it makes lips worn for best result laser welding or chrome plating
Have you guys considered replacing the dextron 6 with a more premium oil like the red one MT-LV ?
And great work, enjoyed a lot
@@lotfyken2759 No.
@@diyEVguy thank you i did it, i find it more suitable, that one is recommended for the most complicated hyundai double clutch trasmission.
11:15 i think O-ring was been doing his job well for 9yrs, why just not replace a 1$ part?!
Yes that would have been better. And I trust the added RTV silicone as a backup.
7:15 assembled gearbox and my axeks are rotating with knock knock sound like the watch, what i got to do? Sound looks like from invertor or gearbox, and i did not fix the parking break -what kind of damage i did i dont know right now... And i just thoug the park brake doesnt work
Pull axles out, run motor again and listen again?
@@diyEVguy without axles mb b250 electro goes to safe mode sad i need to go to service withoutgearbox selection ,and what app do i need to delete mistakes from ebu... Elm327 i already have but cant find app to read the ebu , i think its goes to error becouse i forgot to setup the brake support on the disk , push brake pedal and its eroor i have
@@omarmalyomarmaly9323 I would recommend contacting alflash.com.ua because you can trust him, he helped me too. I have a full-time job now so I cannot help more.
@@diyEVguy just , send the message.
Iput axls in the place and engage the park brake but its stil rotating and the electric motor is clicking, mb was some wrong assemling? And i need to pull out the motor? And repack it?
@@omarmalyomarmaly9323 can you make a short video about it and post it on UA-cam?
Is this the same motor in Mercedes b250e
Almost the same, but the inverter electronics hardware is different according to @CarRepairVideos
@@diyEVguy im looking to remove my motor Mercedes b250e for a bearings noise,im a mechanic but i have never removed one,is there any instructions video for removal?thank you for your useful videos
@@hishamqdoumi1786 For bearings, my videos should be showing the same (or at least very similar) parts and procedures as for your motor. I am very curious what you will find! Please keep me up to date. Did you check for the infamous coolant leak yet?
@@hishamqdoumi1786 Check this too: ua-cam.com/video/1ecX94hxewc/v-deo.html
amazing work!! what was the time frame on this?
For me incl video editing and waiting for parts etc: 8 weeks or so. Next time without recoding I could do it over two weekends if I am lucky.