A little note on motor cooling! The losses in the inverter and stator are proportional to the torque being generated (actually they are proportional to the square of the phase current if we are being pedantic), whereas the rotor losses are dominated by it's rotational speed. Blocking or reducing the coolant flow to the rotor is not a problem if you don't sit at sustained high speed (high motor rpm) and you may find that it allows more torque at lower speeds to be maintained as a higher flow rate = more heat removal. As it's pretty difficult to actually measure in real time the temperature of the rotor (we use non contact IR or laser thermometry when developing these sorts of motors as well as "post event " temp tabs and precision metalurgy to determine the peak temp of the rotor, the std inverter will have a thermodynamics model for the eMachine, and this will calculate the rotor temp based on the models parameters, and limit performance to maintain the temperatures within acceptable limits
7:39 Please don't pry open aluminium like that. Use the bolts to your favor instead, make sure they are seated 2-3 turns and give them a whack with a rubber hammer instead. Then you can separate them without damaging the sealing flat surfaces.
Great work! The Z and the MGA are certainly unique beasts, and their journeys to electrification are equally unique. Great seeing you giving them both the attention they and their owners deserve!
A heads up with the tough nuts to break, if red loctite was used, it's normal to heat up the nuts and bolts first, this loosens the thread locker enough to break them free.
I watch Alex over at Legit Street Cars. When he breaks down something this complex gearing and such, he uses a grease pen to make to two things that need to meet a certain way or mark what should be facing in which direction. I don't know if this will help you keep organized or give a visual indicator to lessen your challenges. Thanks for the show. It is very educational ... I will probably never build or repair an EV but it's still a learning experience.
These units and all ev inverters/chargers are dangerous for people to mess around with and for people to get hurt. There is a 400v cap that should be discharged or checked for discharge with a dvom and he should be wearing class 0 gloves for this operation. Come on man. You are educating people, do it the right way. My buddy got bit by one of these because he was hot and sweaty working on it. Please EVeryone BE CAREFUL!
No power if it's not plugged into a battery. I suppose checking for voltage before you start can't hurt but class 0 gloves would be a bit overkill for a inverter board swap lol
@@bubferner2146 lol, as if caps would be discharging themselves instantly….. there is more than likely still HV somewhere, because of those capacitors.
8:40 you shouldn't be using your torque wrench as a breaker bar. A breaker bar is just a solid steel shaft with a square anvil on the end for sockets. They are much cheaper than a torque wrench and are absolutely worth it. You could even add a pipe like a jack handle to the end of a breaker bar.
So amazing to me that you did that in 26 mins! Also, that poor hammer. Thanks for keeping us up to date on the builds and teaching about the mods. Cool stuff!
I wonder if a rotor oil cooling upgrade, i.e. with QC Charge manifold, would be better if the power is being increased. That rotor is gonna cook. I have a Rav4 EV with a rotor cooling delete (same motor but 150HP) and it does fine... some folks have done the same and attempted to measure the rotor temp while driving conservatively and they measured almost 200F. The copper rotor may handle it but the efficiency decrease as heat soak takes hold, and the heat is effectively only dissipated through the bearings and by radiation & convention to the stator...
@Nicholas-f5 14:45 it looks like the revolt kit, the one he bought, doesn't have provisions for oil cooling. It would also require a separate pump and heat exchanger, as well as a manifold that retains the rotor tube and i/o ports, of course.
Enjoying your builds. I could be wrong - as it has been known to happen. I thought I saw you use a torque wrench to break some bolts loose. Recommendation - Best not to use a torque wrench to break bolts loose. Only to tighten them... Keep up the good work.
If you want to seriously do this work, you REALLY need to get a decent work bench. Something you can mount that vise to and is substantial enough to pound on.
@@ElectricSuperCar Harbour Freight sells a steel welding bench that some other UA-camrs seem to really like. Maybe you could get them to sponsor one to you... @harborfreight
It looked like the AEM board didn't have a proper conformal coating on it. The original tesla board had liberal coating to deferr moisture. Maybe spray the new board with some coating?
ooof a lil heavy on the RTV.. id be afraid of the "smoosh out" smooshing into the motor insides. If its pushing out that far on the outside, You know it is on the inside too. Look into the Subaru BRZ Toyota GT86 Oil starvation issues caused by caked on RTV.
I will probably never remove the motor out of my Tesla, but I am watching this video anyway!! I'm having such fun! By the way, Davinci has a call out that tracks. I like the call outs you are using though, and I know how much time it takes to put them in.
You should get a 1/2" impact like a Dewalt DCF900B it's much better than the smaller impact drivers for any larger nuts. I use my smaller impact on 12mm and smaller nuts. Then my large 1/2" impact for larger nuts and bolts.
@ElectricSuperCar I got that 😅 sorry, I wasn't precise - I mean is it for better durability or more performance or why would you swap them? I have no clue, but still enjoy your channel!
@@lthg18My guess is maybe for compatibility. Because it's a Tesla motor, the board will only work with Tesla parts, (maybe locked?). And so the aftermarket board maybe allows someone to bypass Tesla's own board to use the motor. Just a guess! 😅
@@w1za4d12 This, it allows you to control the motor, although then you're stuck to that aftermarket vendor. Unless you want to get an open source board (Damien Maguire).
There have been several Model 3 Performance “Ludicrous” that have reported oil leaking from the rear drive shaft. There are several videos on UA-cam & on X. Yikes 😱
So what exactly are the performance gains over stock form? Limited slip diff = traction Inverter board = ?? Coolant bypass = longevity Any actual speed increase? Torque/hp?
This reminded me of the late 90s&early 2000s car scene tuning, where we had to pull the actual motherboard and send it out for a flash. Pre the hand held obd2 tuning super easy re flashes for tuning. 👍🏻😀 Last I was into the tuning scene in 2018 my friend who runs a fl tuning shop with his dad. We just sat in our cars with the programmers and software literally adjusting them each run. We had various st and track tunes which got much better cruising mpg for the hwy otw out to the track to track&rac3 tunes specific for various ethanol percentages, locked out turbo boost in certain rpm&gear ranges, ad in timing&fuel per gear etc. Even on st cars it made a big difference! But now it's even more advanced than that I'm sure! Tesla should consider offering in car power customization options for $$$ on their perfomance model's. You can't tell me the plaid&new 24 m3p can't be further optimized for track specific purposes. And this would be how you get us gearheads who might be ev reluctant into them! 😎👍🏻
Volvo does this with the xc40 T5R. You can rent a more aggressive tune for a few weeks or buy it outright. It’s not cheap and most people prefer longevity over better mid range acceleration
Is that a specific model of quaife LSD? I wonder if that comes OEM in some cars, and you can salvage one from a junkyard differential for much much cheaper than its normal $2000 asking price
Amazing content! Is there any way to actually change the gear ratio for the car to gain more top speed? About 300-320kph? I've seen there's a short ratio made for mid drive for AWD and SUVs for this unit, is there any one that only changes the ratio to get a better top speed? If not, would that lower ratio set help it go faster (I know acceleration takes a hit but a top speed that can do some numbers on german autobahn would be nice...)
Why are you loosening with the torque wrench? Use a breaker bar or an actual impact wrench...not an impact driver. Your impact doesn't suck, it's a 1/4" hex drive meant for drywall screws. What you really need is a cordless ratchet.
Hely....nice video. I came across it while trying to see if the bushings can be changed on the drive unit. Tesla service says bushings are bad, but will only replace the whole drive unit, and not just the bushings. are you aware of being able to replace just the bushings anywhere....appreciate the help and your video knowledge......
what was the new inverter board for? i hope you used red loctite when you bolted the crownwheel back onto the new diff centre, also buy yourself a decent breaker bar man..
Excellent video! I am getting my RDU replaced by Tesla. It's out of warranty. It's not related to the video, I know, but watching this video makes me want to think about my old 2015 TMS70. I asked if I could keep the old drive unit. I want to see if I can open it up. 😅
@@blueracer66 you too. Have a nice day. I don't follow Elon that closely anymore but I remember when he sent a message to all his employees to avoid acronyms as much as possible. Since then I've begun to observe how acronyms have some big downsides.
hey sir why did you change the inverter secondly why have you also change the reverse pump but what about teslas they also drive in reverse with the same motor
What's wrong with stock inverter controller board? If there are any improvements to be made, then I would have thought it would be in firmware, so like you would re-flash this board with 3-rd party firmware.
@@ElectricSuperCar What? I have the same question many have asked: Why the new controller board? Can you spoon feed please none of your replies so far make much sense to this old gear head with a Model S P dual motor.
The difference between heat and electricity. Electricity will always win with super high efficiency. V8s/engines are overrated, Tesla or any EV motors deserves much attention too.
@@ElectricSuperCar after this comment I went down a whole day rabbit hole learning about this. I had no idea there were other ways to control these motors. Now you got me thinking lol. I wonder if I could use one of these in my MS 90D to convert it to a P90D lol. Probably not. But damn that'll be cool.
COOLANT DELETE IS SOMETHING WHAT WE DONT SUPPORT because it is not sustainable nor reliable longterm. Solving one problem and generating second one is the issue here, because rotor without cooling will destroy the ballbearings. We already have repaired 1 LDU with coolant delete, rotor destroyed the ballbearing at 30,000km. So same patterns repeats it self every day of our job, all motors without rotor cooling prematurely kills rotor bearing.
Hey, ‘that red car’ guy here. You weren’t supposed to notice that! I want a rematch 😂😂😂.
LOL! Anytime. Did you ever swap your diff?
LMAO 😅
I really appreciate the detailed breakdown on the job. Too many people skip over half of it so it teaches me nothing
Glad it was helpful!
A little note on motor cooling! The losses in the inverter and stator are proportional to the torque being generated (actually they are proportional to the square of the phase current if we are being pedantic), whereas the rotor losses are dominated by it's rotational speed. Blocking or reducing the coolant flow to the rotor is not a problem if you don't sit at sustained high speed (high motor rpm) and you may find that it allows more torque at lower speeds to be maintained as a higher flow rate = more heat removal. As it's pretty difficult to actually measure in real time the temperature of the rotor (we use non contact IR or laser thermometry when developing these sorts of motors as well as "post event " temp tabs and precision metalurgy to determine the peak temp of the rotor, the std inverter will have a thermodynamics model for the eMachine, and this will calculate the rotor temp based on the models parameters, and limit performance to maintain the temperatures within acceptable limits
7:39 Please don't pry open aluminium like that. Use the bolts to your favor instead, make sure they are seated 2-3 turns and give them a whack with a rubber hammer instead. Then you can separate them without damaging the sealing flat surfaces.
thanks for the tip!
Electric SuperCar, great content you deserve more views
I appreciate that!
Great work! The Z and the MGA are certainly unique beasts, and their journeys to electrification are equally unique. Great seeing you giving them both the attention they and their owners deserve!
Thanks Friend!
I had no idea there was somebody truly modifying tesla s amazing thanks for sharing you guys are on another level
Thanks for watching!
A heads up with the tough nuts to break, if red loctite was used, it's normal to heat up the nuts and bolts first, this loosens the thread locker enough to break them free.
Good call
Man, I must say that is one good looking coolant bypass kit 👌🏽
I think so too!
I watch Alex over at Legit Street Cars. When he breaks down something this complex gearing and such, he uses a grease pen to make to two things that need to meet a certain way or mark what should be facing in which direction. I don't know if this will help you keep organized or give a visual indicator to lessen your challenges. Thanks for the show. It is very educational ... I will probably never build or repair an EV but it's still a learning experience.
Thanks for the comment!
Ha this old motor mechanic ( jep boys i'm from the carburator time) is learning a lot of stuf. Thanks for your fantastic video's.
Thanks for watching!
Glad I waited for the out takes! Rubber mallet breaking is a classic. I have a black one for my Porsche work, and a white one for my LEGO work!
nice!
These units and all ev inverters/chargers are dangerous for people to mess around with and for people to get hurt. There is a 400v cap that should be discharged or checked for discharge with a dvom and he should be wearing class 0 gloves for this operation. Come on man. You are educating people, do it the right way. My buddy got bit by one of these because he was hot and sweaty working on it. Please EVeryone BE CAREFUL!
No power if it's not plugged into a battery. I suppose checking for voltage before you start can't hurt but class 0 gloves would be a bit overkill for a inverter board swap lol
@@bubferner2146 lol, as if caps would be discharging themselves instantly….. there is more than likely still HV somewhere, because of those capacitors.
No capacitors that I'm aware of
It’s funny to me that you have a car hoist but not a table to install a vice on. It would drive me bananas! Another great video thanks for sharing!
Great point!
Do you know anyone doing the delete on the east coast? Philadelphia
That dumb coolant seal blew in my Mercedes B250e also the same Tesla motor. Took out my whole motor!
Yikes!
Class action proposed
8:40 you shouldn't be using your torque wrench as a breaker bar. A breaker bar is just a solid steel shaft with a square anvil on the end for sockets. They are much cheaper than a torque wrench and are absolutely worth it. You could even add a pipe like a jack handle to the end of a breaker bar.
This one is already broken so I use it like a ratcheting breaker bar
One for the algorithm. I enjoy that you include a bar while the ads playing lol great content as usual.
So amazing to me that you did that in 26 mins! Also, that poor hammer. Thanks for keeping us up to date on the builds and teaching about the mods. Cool stuff!
Will do!
I wonder if a rotor oil cooling upgrade, i.e. with QC Charge manifold, would be better if the power is being increased. That rotor is gonna cook. I have a Rav4 EV with a rotor cooling delete (same motor but 150HP) and it does fine... some folks have done the same and attempted to measure the rotor temp while driving conservatively and they measured almost 200F.
The copper rotor may handle it but the efficiency decrease as heat soak takes hold, and the heat is effectively only dissipated through the bearings and by radiation & convention to the stator...
Some coolant deletes have a port for an oil cooler
@Nicholas-f5 14:45 it looks like the revolt kit, the one he bought, doesn't have provisions for oil cooling.
It would also require a separate pump and heat exchanger, as well as a manifold that retains the rotor tube and i/o ports, of course.
Mount that vice buddy. Cheers
LOL!
Enjoying your builds. I could be wrong - as it has been known to happen. I thought I saw you use a torque wrench to break some bolts loose. Recommendation - Best not to use a torque wrench to break bolts loose. Only to tighten them... Keep up the good work.
agreed. This one was already broken
That myth has been debunked multiple times by multiple people
@@ouch1011which myth. Can you pls elaborate? Torque wrench can or cannot be used?
Love the consistent uploads. Commenting to feed the demonic algorithm.
I appreciate that
Whistling diesel has the Cybertron testing to hitch supposed to tow 11,000 lb The whole frame ripped off the truck way before that
If you want to seriously do this work, you REALLY need to get a decent work bench. Something you can mount that vise to and is substantial enough to pound on.
agreed!
@@ElectricSuperCar Harbour Freight sells a steel welding bench that some other UA-camrs seem to really like. Maybe you could get them to sponsor one to you... @harborfreight
Heat can be applied to make it easier, we learned
Never seen someone modify a tesla motor awesome video 😊
Thanks 👍
Wild that you can block off an entire cooling channel and everything is still fine.
Tesla finally did it too in the final revision U motor
You can probably buy the motors and the battery pack of a Fisker Ocean at a great discounted price, with no miles.
Do you know a controller that works with their motors?
@@ElectricSuperCar I wonder how much reverse engineering would be required on the CAN bus lines.
@@ElectricSuperCarRich may know
You deserve more views my man
LOL! Tell your friends!
@@ElectricSuperCar yes I have told my friends
You need a colab with BoistedBoys!
Can't wait to put one in my Eurovan! ;)
nice!
If it weren’t for the algorithm Mat Armstrong’s knees would be shaking in YT car content competition
LOL! Thanks!
It looked like the AEM board didn't have a proper conformal coating on it. The original tesla board had liberal coating to deferr moisture. Maybe spray the new board with some coating?
Interesting 🤔
Great job !!!! PLEASE.... weekly videoSS !
@evjpgarage4976 already doing weekly videos! 👍
ooof a lil heavy on the RTV.. id be afraid of the "smoosh out" smooshing into the motor insides. If its pushing out that far on the outside, You know it is on the inside too. Look into the Subaru BRZ Toyota GT86 Oil starvation issues caused by caked on RTV.
the "One tire fire"! lol!
Crazy what a difference the diff made on the launch of the blue car!
👍
Commenting for the algorithm. But I must say some of the details you go to are brilliant.
Thanks!
I will probably never remove the motor out of my Tesla, but I am watching this video anyway!! I'm having such fun! By the way, Davinci has a call out that tracks. I like the call outs you are using though, and I know how much time it takes to put them in.
Very cool!
You should get a 1/2" impact like a Dewalt DCF900B it's much better than the smaller impact drivers for any larger nuts. I use my smaller impact on 12mm and smaller nuts. Then my large 1/2" impact for larger nuts and bolts.
Good call!
Nice work! Clear and concise!
Thanks!
Awesome ✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻
Next episode wheel's will turn👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Best wishes 🎉🎉🎉
Keep it up 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Thanks ✌️
Love the videos but you need to get a proper workbench to mount that vice on.
agreed!
job well done
Thanks!
I wanna see if u can put a plaid motor in a Tesla model 3 performance 😅 high key
Great job, keep going!!
Thank you! Will do!
Feeding the algorithm beast. Great content per the usual
Thanks friend!
WOW! Where did you buy the motor? How much did it cost? Amazing content
you are a legend!! the video is a treasure trove of information
Wow, thanks!
Really like your attitude and the way you handle stuff ❤
I appreciate that!
What is so different between the inverter boards? cool update as always!
Aftermarket vs. OEM
@ElectricSuperCar I got that 😅 sorry, I wasn't precise - I mean is it for better durability or more performance or why would you swap them? I have no clue, but still enjoy your channel!
@@lthg18My guess is maybe for compatibility. Because it's a Tesla motor, the board will only work with Tesla parts, (maybe locked?). And so the aftermarket board maybe allows someone to bypass Tesla's own board to use the motor. Just a guess! 😅
@@w1za4d12 This, it allows you to control the motor, although then you're stuck to that aftermarket vendor. Unless you want to get an open source board (Damien Maguire).
please make a water profing kit for tesla motors and inverter🤔🤔
I can highly endorse the dewalt DCF900b since you have the batteries already .. So far if it dont come off it breaks
Nice!
Nice video!
Thanks!
g00d work
This is cool!!
Thanks friend!
Man you need to make a bench that you can bolt your vice with! It can something simple with 2x4s with braces. Please it would be worth the time.
Right on!
There have been several Model 3 Performance “Ludicrous” that have reported oil leaking from the rear drive shaft. There are several videos on UA-cam & on X. Yikes 😱
Well done Sir. Just wondering if there is a Torsen differential for that application?
Not that I know of
So what exactly are the performance gains over stock form?
Limited slip diff = traction
Inverter board = ??
Coolant bypass = longevity
Any actual speed increase? Torque/hp?
Great video and info, one question, where do you get the torque specs for the motor?
Tesla service manual
Would love to see a similar video for the SDU if you get the chance. Really good stuff. Thanks
Noted!
Can the sdu cradle fit in place of the leaky ldu? The small motors were used on some 60s
Another great video👍
Thanks again!
This reminded me of the late 90s&early 2000s car scene tuning, where we had to pull the actual motherboard and send it out for a flash.
Pre the hand held obd2 tuning super easy re flashes for tuning. 👍🏻😀
Last I was into the tuning scene in 2018 my friend who runs a fl tuning shop with his dad. We just sat in our cars with the programmers and software literally adjusting them each run.
We had various st and track tunes which got much better cruising mpg for the hwy otw out to the track to track&rac3 tunes specific for various ethanol percentages, locked out turbo boost in certain rpm&gear ranges, ad in timing&fuel per gear etc. Even on st cars it made a big difference!
But now it's even more advanced than that I'm sure!
Tesla should consider offering in car power customization options for $$$ on their perfomance model's. You can't tell me the plaid&new 24 m3p can't be further optimized for track specific purposes. And this would be how you get us gearheads who might be ev reluctant into them! 😎👍🏻
Thanks for the comment!
Volvo does this with the xc40 T5R. You can rent a more aggressive tune for a few weeks or buy it outright. It’s not cheap and most people prefer longevity over better mid range acceleration
Is that a specific model of quaife LSD?
I wonder if that comes OEM in some cars, and you can salvage one from a junkyard differential for much much cheaper than its normal $2000 asking price
Pls try again
Great video! I have all these parts in the garage waiting for me to install.
Good luck!
Which part of the country?
@@Nicholas-f5 West Coast.
Amazing content! Is there any way to actually change the gear ratio for the car to gain more top speed? About 300-320kph? I've seen there's a short ratio made for mid drive for AWD and SUVs for this unit, is there any one that only changes the ratio to get a better top speed? If not, would that lower ratio set help it go faster (I know acceleration takes a hit but a top speed that can do some numbers on german autobahn would be nice...)
Agreed, that would be cool
Interested to see how that Z build progresses
More to come!
Is the AEM inverter board conformal coated like the OEM Tesla one? It did not look like it in the video.
I don't think so
Love your videos ❤
Thanks Friend!
bro you got do to double of these mods for the Porsche
Does the LSD hardware use loctite is that why it was tough for you to break?
I believe so
Is that limited slip adjustable for more or less slip?
Not sure if I saw incorrectly but don’t use the torque wrench as a breaker bar :) nice video!
Nice and well explained. Is this a common Tesla failure ?
Yes, class action proposed
Torque wrenches can loose their cal if you use them as breaker bars
thanks for the info
@8:52 FYI, you should never use a torque wrench to loosen bolts. Total cringe when I saw that!
@@gabem8119 it was already broken. I use it as a ratcheting breaker bar now.
@@gabem8119that myth has been totally debunked multiple times
Why are you loosening with the torque wrench? Use a breaker bar or an actual impact wrench...not an impact driver. Your impact doesn't suck, it's a 1/4" hex drive meant for drywall screws.
What you really need is a cordless ratchet.
Nice
Thanks
That thing is upgradeable!?!?!??!? 👍
Its just a fancy electric motor... People have been upgrading their RC cars and racing them for decades and decades..
Hely....nice video. I came across it while trying to see if the bushings can be changed on the drive unit. Tesla service says bushings are bad, but will only replace the whole drive unit, and not just the bushings. are you aware of being able to replace just the bushings anywhere....appreciate the help and your video knowledge......
Not aware
“You can’t mod an electric car”
Guess this proves them wrong
what was the new inverter board for? i hope you used red loctite when you bolted the crownwheel back onto the new diff centre, also buy yourself a decent breaker bar man..
I know, right!?!
I'd say that impact driver is overkill for 90% of those fasteners you're working with replacing that board.
Someone please send this man some Milwaukee tools and work bench to put the vise onto. 😅
Yes please!
Excellent video! I am getting my RDU replaced by Tesla. It's out of warranty. It's not related to the video, I know, but watching this video makes me want to think about my old 2015 TMS70. I asked if I could keep the old drive unit. I want to see if I can open it up. 😅
Too many abbreviations.
@@crazydrifter13 I see. RDU: Rear Drive Unit; TMS70: Tesla Model S 70. Have a good day!
@@blueracer66 you too. Have a nice day. I don't follow Elon that closely anymore but I remember when he sent a message to all his employees to avoid acronyms as much as possible. Since then I've begun to observe how acronyms have some big downsides.
They'll let you keep it, may even be a law. Warranty?
Not worried that the gasket-maker stuff is also potruding on the inside ?
It definitely is. No, I am not worried. OEM also has it protruding on the inside.
@@ElectricSuperCar doesnt mean its right
so what kind of horsepower improvements are we talking about with all of this
hey sir why did you change the inverter
secondly why have you also change the reverse pump but what about teslas they also drive in reverse with the same motor
Inverter change is to use an aftermarket motor controller. The reverse pump is so I can mount the motor backwards and go 150mph.
Great video! Just promise to get a breaker bar and not use the torque wrench to break bolts it made my skin crawl
It was already broken
What's wrong with stock inverter controller board?
If there are any improvements to be made, then I would have thought it would be in firmware, so like you would re-flash this board with 3-rd party firmware.
Nothing is wrong with the stock unit. This makes it unable with an aftermarket controller
@@ElectricSuperCar What? I have the same question many have asked: Why the new controller board? Can you spoon feed please none of your replies so far make much sense to this old gear head with a Model S P dual motor.
This is required if you want to put a Tesla motor in a non-tesla car
Where can you get a Revolt LDU Coolant Bypass Kit for "a couple hundred bucks?" I can only find them for about $525.
$50 seal out now
9:27 chris fix cameo
Missing the most satisfying CLICK from your digital torque wrench. Please please consider changing. We NEED the click.
Noted!
Did you ever cover why changing the inverter board was necessary/important? What the new board did, etc...
New board is to allow the motor to be controlled with an aftermarket controller
For non Tesla DIY use
The difference between heat and electricity. Electricity will always win with super high efficiency.
V8s/engines are overrated, Tesla or any EV motors deserves much attention too.
I'd love to do an EV conversion, but I love the sound of combustion engine, not that I've ever owned a powerful car haha.
What does the inverter board do?
Allows the motor to be controlled by an aftermarket motor controller
@@ElectricSuperCar after this comment I went down a whole day rabbit hole learning about this. I had no idea there were other ways to control these motors. Now you got me thinking lol.
I wonder if I could use one of these in my MS 90D to convert it to a P90D lol. Probably not. But damn that'll be cool.
Great video! You need a dead blow hammer.
Yes sir!
Doing the coolant delete?
I was about to say the same thing.
Yep!
this is for Porsche right?
COOLANT DELETE IS SOMETHING WHAT WE DONT SUPPORT because it is not sustainable nor reliable longterm. Solving one problem and generating second one is the issue here, because rotor without cooling will destroy the ballbearings. We already have repaired 1 LDU with coolant delete, rotor destroyed the ballbearing at 30,000km. So same patterns repeats it self every day of our job, all motors without rotor cooling prematurely kills rotor bearing.
What's the purpose of the after market inverter board?
To use with an aftermarket motor controller