DIY BMW E65 E66 Brake Bleeding
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
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ATE Typ 200 Gold DOT 4 Brake Fluid Here:
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I show how to bleed the brakes on your BMW E65 750i E66 750li. I used the pressure brake bleeding method it was super easy and I could do this job all by myself. The reason the video is so long I also show you how to reset the brake fluid on the Idrive computer. Also I like to be super detailed in my videos because some folks might need more instruction. Thank you for watching. God Bless
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This is most beautiful video, this man doing everything very carefully and aesthetically.
Had my doubts that the rig would work, but looked absolutely fine, quick tip for your catch bottle drop a couple of penny steel washers in it, then put the catch bottle in a magnetic dish then put the dish and bottle on the paint can as it attaches magnetically it will not fall over, don't ask me how I know ;) I've never seen coloured brake fluid here in England, that would be useful
the one thing that you must remember is when you are done with the brake fluid you must keep it in a cool dry place because brake fluid is hydroscopic that is also why you have to change it because the water it absorbes it will lower the boiling point of the brake fluid and cause a spongy pedal because when the fluid gets hot enough it will boil the water mixed with it and create air pockets their for the reasoning for the fluid change
Very comprehensive step by step. Thanks for the video tutorial.
Nifty idea. One thought is that you might want to consider putting a bleeder valve on the cap. I think you got a lot of bubbles at first is because before the break fluid got pushed from the sprayer to the master cylinder you were sucking air in the master cylinder. A little bleeder on the cap to get a little fluid flowing or maybe prefill the master cylinder first.
Since you didn't empty any brake fluids from the reservoir, or replace the master cylinder, there is no reason that air could have gotten into the line on the passenger rear. The only way that air could get in was from the bleeder nipple nut. I myself prefer not to loosen the bleeding nut too much for that reason. Loosen it just a bit will enable fluid to bleed out,while under pressure, but opening it more will suck air in through the nut grooves because while the fluid escapes, sometimes it creates a vacuum for air to enter if the bleeder nut is loosened too much.
You save me a fortune and have taught me how to turn my e65 750i into one awesome machine that runs like a dream..!!!.. Keep it up and god bless..!!
Thank you for the kind words, and thank you for watching the videos, God bless you as well, and if your state side Happy Thanksgiving coming up.
I think there is an important step missing here. You would need to operate the ESP/ABS unit using the diagnostic system during these operations for a proper bleed of the brake fluid. Otherwise stagnant old fluid will remain in some cavities of the valve block and the pump, eventually causing serious corrosion and expensive to repair failure of these and other units.
Thank you Chris, for the great information. Yes next time around I'll use the 6 point wrench. Thanks for watching:)
Excellent. Very systematic, clear and informative.
this is a great DIY as well as the one on how to make a pressure bleeder. thanks man!
I just bought the ATE SL.6 brake fluid for my E61 as it calls for low viscosity fluid, due to DSC. I know the ATE type 200 has a higher boiling point (280°C vs 265°C) but is also double the viscosity at -40°C. (700mm²/s for the SL.6 and 1400mm²/s for the type 200). I live in Norway where it can get pretty cold and icy in the winter, so the ABS and DSC systems engages a lot. I'm looking forward to see if I can feel any difference. PS: ATE type 200 calls for a 3 year change interval but BMW says every 2 years for brake fluid regardless of which fluid you choose to use. Better safe than sorry. :) I've also ordered 2 liters just in case. I'm like you and want to make sure "every drop" of the old fluid gets replaced. :) Great video by the way!
And I forgot to mention; brake fluid is hygro scopic "absorbs moisture". That fluid you poured back in the container should be discarded if it wont be used right away. You could inherently put moisture into your system. Only use brake fluid from a sealed container. Also, when your brake fluid gets low it is a indication that the brake liners for your drums or rotors are wearing. Dont top off a master cylinder. Check your brake pads or shoes instead.
I used your video to make the pressure brake bleeder exactly as you stated. I had a problem with the cap coming off with 1 bar of pressure, and brake fluid spewing all over my engine compartment, windshield, fender and floor, so I wanted to add some corrections, just in case someone is doing this with your method/video. The thread on the white home depot cap is not the same as the master cylinder cap thread, and the correct diameter should be 38MM cap versus a slight difference to a 1-12" size, which no amount of Teflon tape can hold in place with that amount of pressure. I went to the salvage yard and brought 3 different used caps without the level sensor from a BMW and Mercedes (BMW cap had a vent hole under the gasket and used the Mercedes without the vent, but with the gasket to ensure no air/fluid leaks) and drilled the hole at the center of it and threaded the fitting and sealed it with JB weld. I also used a smaller pressure gauge (160 psi) which uses a 5/32 drill bit for the hole and glued it with JB weld. I bought the gauge at home depot for a little over $8. and its more accurate than the 300 psi one especially when measuring about 15 psi's. I changed my brake booster because mine was full of oil, which is very common with these vehicles and I could probably gotten it done under the recall warranty, but I figured it was an easy task and be done. Easier said than done.The bleeding has to be done with DIS to activate the ABS/DSC pumps to remove the air that gets inside from removing the master cylinder. Otherwise, you'll be waiting forever for the fluid to come out the vent valves and a unresponsive brake pedal that won't push the fluid through until the pumps and valves are actuated.DIS Bleeding link : www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1859183-Brake-bleeding-with-DIS-DIY
Hello,
Yes after I did the brake fluid bleed, the noise went away, I was very excited about that.
on your pipe from the caliper to the waste bottle you may consider using a one way valve as use in fish pond stuff I have it in line and no air bubbles can get back into caliper. good job
Good video. One thing I do differently than you did is I do the shortest distance first. By doing the left driver side I get all the old fluid out of the master cylinder quicker. Then I go to the rear and I bleed the left front again last. Newer cars are plumbed criss cross. By that I mean left front and right rear. The way I do it you bleed the fronts first and last. A little more work because you're bleeding the fronts twice but it works for me.
Since the video was made, brake fluids with blue color are banned by DOT. You can get clear or amber color, but not blue. The only way to get ATE Super Blue is from overseas and including shipping, it now comes to almost $100/bottle. I've always alternate the "blue" and the "amber" color because there is no second guessing when the color changes when all the old fluid has been purged. It seems to me leaving things to the government, they will screw up anything that works.
Correction...overseas mail order price for the Super Blue is around $50.
Your welcome glad the videos can help.
amazing DIY. I'm definitely making one tomorrow thank you
Superb Job with brakes bleeding! I would love to see your car DIY videos! Always keep up the good work!^^
Very nice step by step video. Keep up the good work .
Thanks for video....it reminded me of why I don't have a BMW.
Your welcome, thanks for watching the videos.
Good clear instructions, Great.
Thank you for watching the videos, you do need to be a little careful of air getting in, but I was able to be safe and not get any in, I don't exactly remember but in the video I did step by step carefully.
Excellent video & very thorough
+Brent Sumner Thank you Brent, appreciate it, and Thank you for watching:)
Great how-to"s! When you attach the cap onto the master cylinder reservoir and you start the bleeding process, how do you avoid the air from the tube going into the reservoir? Thx
Thank you, my brakes are feeling very nice now.
Great setup, always been a gravity bleeder myself but will try this setup out. Also, did you refill the reservoir prior to pressurizing the master cylinder? One thing I learned on the GTO forum, I was a member of, is one of the reasons for removing the dirty fluid from the master cylinder is to not push if through the ABS system.
Thanks for taking time to save time and enjoy knowing that you can DIY!
Peace
I took a turkey baster and sucked all the fluid out of the reservoir, then pushed the rest out. Hope this help:)
Thanks for watching Eric, Happy saving money:)
whys it get jumpy around 17:08?
great video! can this be done with any ABS system? does anything special have to be done with the ABS module? and,did you prefill the reservoir with new fluid prior to pressurizing? thanks again for doing these videos!
Thank you so much Chris for the video as I will do my own brake bleeding.
Just a question, did you fill the master cylinder reservoir with new brake fluid before you put that cap (for the pressure pump) on .
Again thank you so much you are a great man for sharing valuable knowledge!
I hope you topped up the master cylinder with fresh fluid and pumped some fluid through the pressure bottle hose, otherwise you would have been pumping air through the system
Nice demo! Good Job!
Mr Roger of youtube
Good stuff! I'm confident to do this job now, thank-you :) .... Hey, question* ... I have a MB that requires 30psi for bleeding, will your DIY bleeder handle the extra pressure? David
add a tire air fill valve to your Hudson and avoid the pumping.
Thank you for watching the videos.
Outstanding ... Didn't know brake fluid came in colors ... T u
Awesome videos as always! Can't tell you how helpful these are (especially as finicky as the 7 is)...
Curious if you think it's necessary to put the entire car on jacks for this job - or if you think it's alright to just go from corner to corner with the jack? (furthest to closest of course)
thanks again for all you do!
TriggerFingaRichie I personally would think that going corner to corner would be fine, if your using a pressure system it's pushing it through for you already, and it wouldn't matter if the car is at a weird angle. Hope this helps.
Pvc cap that goes on reservoir leaked big time. I tried plummers tape but I can not make it sealed 100 percent. Any tips? What is the weld used to seal?
Thanks for the videos
Great video! Thank you !
Dude your getting air in the system around the bleeder screw threads.
very informative. thanks
so u dont have to press the brakes to flush the lines because i didnt see u press them at all pls reply
Hi can I jack the wheels up one at a time as I do not have stands. Thanks
I could only reset the computer after starting the car when I did the brake fluid change. is that normal.
Top man..great videos..keep up the good work..
use a 6 point wrench next time, not a 12 point. You could strip the bolt; especially if it hasn't been touched in a while. other wise great vid
Hi! Thanks for great video! quick question, your pvc cap, how do you make it seal against the reservoir? with any rubber gasket, any fluid leaks out when pressurized? Thanks again.
Yes I did have a leak, what I did is use some Plumbers tape to secure it, but I would recommend making sure it's 100% tight, it worked great for me, but I did leak some fluid doing it because it wasn't 100% secure, just be careful and it'll work great. You might use a little J/B weld on the connectors as well.
great info, I am assembling my pressure tank & getting ready to do the bleed. Just one question, what size is the plastic drain hose that you slide over the nipple? Thanks
Trevor Ritchie typically they’re 1/4”
Thank you for watching the videos, more to come.
Will done
How much litter need to do bleeding and filling?
I made the same pump followed all instructions but when I started pumping into the reservoir it would not be air tight. Even with the tape on the reservoir thread. I had to ditch this method to do the pressing the brakes 3 times to expel the old oil for the new. Everything was going good right up until I went to the last one the side that was closest to reservoir and suddenly lost all pressure on the pedal. Please if anyone can help please do.
When you close the system and press the brake a couple of times it should harden up by itself
Thanks for watching, I got some more great videos in the works.
Great jop
Thank you
man! you are cool!
Thanks for watching:)
Awesome
Thank you for watching the videos:), more on the way.
O wow there was a recall on the super blue racing so I cant buy it
Legend..!!!!
where did you take all the pars?
Exellence!!
Your videos are awesome but have you ever considered saying "here" a bit less? lol
Cause break dusk too..
Or possibly, the agitation of the tapping is causing the bubbles? just sayin'....
Actually I agree with DOT banning blue brake fluid. What if your wife opens up the car hood and tops off the brake fluid with wiper fluid? Catastrophic mistake.
8
rat tat tat
Your welcome, thank you for watching