DIY Make Your Own 1 Man Pressure Brake Bleeder
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
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I show you how to make your own 1 man pressure brake bleeder to bleed your brakes on your car or truck. I'll be using this to bleed my brakes so stay tuned for that. The car used in this video is a BMW E65 ( 750i ) E66 ( 750li ). Thanks for watching.
Music (At Outro) by Kevin MacLeod:
incompetech.com...
God Bless
I answer the following questions
How can I build a 1 man pressure brake bleeder? How can I bleed my brakes on my car myself? What's a pressure brake bleeder? How do I bleed my brakes?
Build a pressure brake bleeder yourself that's what I show you what to do in this video.
I was drilling a similar hole in a pressurized nuclear submarine hoping to make a bigger version of the bleeder and not only voided the factory warranty on the sub but am sending this message from Levenworth prison. I ended up making one of these to bleed the brakes on the prison laundry truck. Works great.
+Michael Ferreira Now , that is a truly awesome comment!!Danny C.
Michael Ferreira: Sorry to hear about your misfortune but can you tell us how you made it past the Dolphin sentry?
That is an AWESOME comment!!!! KUDOS
erik the viking well played sir😄
The guy @ Mercedessource sells parts and DIY manuals on many topics. It is the same pressure tank, but it was developed from the Motive brand brake bleed system. You can buy an adapter from Motive to fit any car and not have to use plumbing caps that might leak or mess up your reservoir... Just so other people know
Built this exact system about a year ago and it has worked flawlessly, it's also about have the cost of a decent pressure bleeder. Great video albeit a little slow in some portions of the video. All in all great job!
Goodjob
Video was spot on. Full description so that everyone young and old could get a full grasp. That is how it's done. This was genius ... well done.
Bite your tongue we might be old but we are forever young at heart
Thanks for the video. This would be good for a kid who is first getting into tools. Yes they are out there. A kids who don't have an instructor is lost till somebody comes along to teach them. This video does just that. Million critics who have never published or edited a video are now the experts..thanks again
i made one works good , screw u midas and jiffy lube trying to charge 175.00 for just bleeding the brakes , thanks DIY, YOU SAVED ME
Built this pressure bleeder and used it today. Have a couple minor things I ran into I want to share. This one is obvious but I was under the car doing the job before it came to me. Use a clear bottle for your catch bottle. I just unthinkingly grabbed a green soda bottle and realized while using it that it was difficult to see when clear, new fluid was coming out (I was also using old tubing on that end that was discolored which didn't help.)
I have all GM cars that use the same Master Cyl cap. Bought a Dornan at Advance Auto. Guess what. The rubber gasket is sold separate. It gets worse. Dornan mislabeled the part numbers or some how screwed up because the rubber gaskets marked for GM are all to small in diameter. Further checking showed this to be so at all the auto parts stores I checked. NAPA surprisingly didn't have one at all. The Ford gasket fits the GM cap right. Criminy.
I put a QD on the hose near the cap. Makes it very easy to get master Cyl pressure cap on and off w/o mess.
I found that 10 psi is plenty to push the fluid through. Worked quite well once I got these glitches remedied.
Any color bottle 8s fine, bit clear hose is a must
@@ethanmaiden Don't do this. It works but this is far from best way to do a bleed. Makes a BF mess for one thing. Vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight, blows this away.
This thing is slicker than snot! I built the thing about a year ago to bleed the coffee-colored brake fluid out of my 2002 BMW e46 brake system, and it was so cool I built a separate connector with a small Fernco cap and some washers so I could bleed the brakes on my wife's 2009 Toyota Venza. Actually makes bleeding the brakes fun and super-easy. One thing that I would like to incorporate into the system in the future is a reservoir bottle for brake fluid so that brake fluid can be continuously pumped into the brake fluid reservoir, eliminating the need to remove the connection repeatedly to refill the fluid. Anyway, thanks for this DIY! DAVE
Great vid.
Using a 1/4" NPT (or other appropriate) tap would allow you to thread the material with the correct tapered thread pitch.The correct drill size is usually marked on the tap. No need for o-rings, heating plastic, potential leaks, or a fitting suddenly shooting out of an improperly, or non threaded, hole at your nut sack.
OMG! You forgot to tell us what color socks you are wearing!!!
After watching so many videos and After 3 days all day of trying different methods on bleeding the breaks I finally did it, I have breaks once again. With new rotors and pads on all four installed and full flush and it's now working better then ever I'm set. I'm glad I don't have to go through this again anytime soon. 👌👇🤘💪
I went down this road to try and save a buck, but upon examining a proper unit from MityVac I saw that the garden sprayer just does not hold up over time. The rubber seals and the pump internals are really cheap in comparison to a tool built for this purpose. So I bit the bullet and bought myself the Mityvac MV6840, which is the tank, the hoses, a caliper catch bottle and fittings, and a damn nice assortment of pressure caps to fit the master cylinder of many popular foreign and domestic vehicles. Got it on sale for about $200 shipped. Money well spent, let me tell you. Turns a pain in the ass job into something pretty straightforward and simple. That system has paid for itself many times over.
One word; AMATEUR! What about all the air that's going to be injected (for the lack of a better word) into the system? The idea of pressure bleeding the brake system is to pressurized the fluid in a container filling the master cylinder and the rest of the system!
That "sealing line" is just some flashing from the where the mold separates. It's a solid piece of plastic.
I used one of these tanks for putting gear oil in a transfer case and a dif. I just put a clear hose on it and pumped it up. It worked slow but worked great and was hands free after locking the trigger.
great video 4 1/2 minutes of drilling a hole.... thank you
thanks for the tip!!
Unibit would help..
Wish I had that 14 minutes back🥱
If only they made a tool that cuts threads for you and if somebody would create a table that tells you the drill size for a 1/4" npt thread
LOLO!!!!! i was thinking the same,,
Thanks for the video, I made one too just like you said & it worked great. I first used denatured alcohol, bled the alcohol lines, added more alcohol to let alcohol sit in lines overnight, bled again in morning with denatured alcohol, compressed air, dried overnight then dot 3 fluid. Used left over denatured alcohol to clean sprayer staining.
It amazed me how dirty / filthy the lines were on the 3rd overnight flush. After all that I put all new front caliper pistons in & new rear drum pistons in. Overkill I know but the van is a 1995 with 185 K mile on it & who knows if it was ever done before I bought it. For those that wanted to know, I had all 4 brake lines disconnected from the wheels when flushing. Then lastly I hooked them all back up 2 days later & re-bled with dot 3.
Jim are you trying to be funny?you sound just like him with your long drawn out almost useless details. If your not trying to be funny I'm sure then that you mean well. I guess I'm just impatient. Sorry to sound mean. The good side of this video is that he showed the basics,we know he is not mechanical,or a mechanic. So anyone with just a bit of mechanical skills will definitely improve this to make it safer and more airtight. So thanks for video
Much simpler than that. In a pinch, get a hose, a water bottle and some string. hose goes from the bleed valve to the bottom of the water bottle. String holds water bottle in position. Make sure the hose goes ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM to prevent loss of vacuum. Put the whole apparatus on your bleed valve and open the valve. Now, get in your hood and open the cap. Put your lips directly on the reservoir and blow. Make sure you don't blow too long or you will just force air into your lines (rather than out). If necessary, refill the reservoir between blows. Keep a bowl under the water bottle in case of spill over.
Done. Less than a dollar and you likely already have all of this stuff laying around.
Darryl Lindner
If you aren't smart enough to not swallow brake fluid, DIY isn't for you. I cut a hole in a sandwich bag and use it as an oral condom of sorts when available (broken condom of sorts) but really, it isn't like it's going to jump in your mouth. You have to be pretty dumb to fuck that up. A lighter can cause impotence and 3rd degree burns to the testicals if you hold it under your nutsack for 60 seconds. Maybe using a lighter to light a cigarette is a very dumb idea. If this "metabolic acidosis" and "renal failure" seems like a realistic risk to you, by all means... child-proof everything...
It works 2003 GMC SIERRA BUG SPRAYER HOME DEPOT $9.00 FITTINGS SAME PLACE PRESSURE GAUGE HARBORFREIGHT $2.00 WORST Part could not get cap to seal master cylinder but this definitely saved the day
Thanks for your post , just made one . I added a quick release air nozzle so i can run it off compressed air or off the hand pump , waiting on the reservoir cap now
this sort of system has been around for decades, and is a power bleader system, better than vacuum systems, the old mastere system had clip on covers so the power bleader cap was just a flat plate with a full rubber plate as a seal(BONDED) together, then basic same fitting for fluid, would only fill to top of master cylinder. use low pressure, your only trying to get a steady stream go push all old fluid and air bubbles out. your system is fine as you stated if you have another cap from same master use it. pressure bleading a brake system will make standard brakes fell like power brakes, good tutorial
This is a great video. I love DIY tips and tricks, especially if it's for a means to save money.
I do believe there are a few areas where this can be improved however. With that cap attached to the hose and tank it will be difficult to screw it on without having to spin the tank because the hose will become twisted and kinked. A quick connector between the cap and hose could resolve this or a swivel connector.
Also, you don't need that o-ring. As you can see, it wasn't even making contact between the fitting and cap. Simply use some Teflon type tape on the treads or some silicon on the joint after assembly.
*A quick note. o-rings only require a hand-tight, then maybe one turn more. Over-tightening on an o-ring turns it into a gasket (by causing it's 'O' shape to become flat like a gasket) at which point you then DO need to tighten it down greatly.
Take no notice of these tyre kickers, you are doing a good video.
Nice video thanks for taking the time and detail. The barbed fitting has an NPT thread on it, it’s a tapered thread that seals as you tighten it. There is thousands of pounds of pressure at the threads, you don’t need the O ring. Also the O ring needs to have two somewhat flat surfaces so it has something to seal against so the o ring will do nothing in this scenario the pressure would just blow it out. Possibly vacuum it could do something but just trust the npt thread and use some sealent or expoxy or tap it with appropriate NPT tap which can be found in most common tap and die kits
Can you go over how to drill that hole again??
great video I made one like that around 45 years ago .Then I married Jane. the best brake bleeder in the world .Pressure bleeding is one way of avoiding air being sucked into the system from a weak master cylinder seal.
First off, thanks a lot for the DIY. It was a pretty straight forward build and has been really useful during my brake and clutch bleed. I'll echo some of the comments here about getting the cap to seal... that was a royal PITA. I tried thread tape with no luck. What I eventually did was hacksaw the cap down in height so that it bottomed out against the top of the reservoir. Then I used RTV silicone to make a gasket on the inside and that got me an airtight seal.
This was on a BMW 135i (E82) fyi...
Here in the UK, we can simply buy a gadget called the Gunson Eezi Bleed - no compressor needed, and it costs about £20/$20 !
$62 US on Amazon and it uses air pressure from a spare tire...lotta extra work......I'll probably end up spending around $50 US for one like the link in the description. comes with a hand pump
I made a brake bleeder like your show in the video. I did not put a pressure gauge, but still work well for me. Not leaking brake fluid. I do not know how durable are the seals of the pump, do not care, after all the sprayer only costs a measly $ 10. I will make a transmission fluid refiller for servicing sealed automatic transmission. I hope it works.
+Gonzalo Hernandez awesome great job Gonzalo.
The pressure gauge does look good imo.
Be careful not to pump pressure more than 20 psi!!
This setup is great for filling differentials and transmissions too. You just have tk make different attachments with quick releases.
If anyone is worried about longevity, they sell sprayers made for bleach, the seals have to be better.
Thanks for taking the effort to make this great video. Using your method would allow the builder to keep cost low and skip buying a tap.
Bleeders with a built in check valve are on the market. Four for about $15. Install them pump the brake (watch your master cylinder level) and you're good to go.
Can you supply a link to where I might buy one of these $15 devices? I've been searching all over, no less than $70 with shipping for a pressure bleeder.
This looks very well made, and I like it, but here in Australia, you can buy a simple vacuum based one man bleeder kit for less than it would cost to buy just one of your brass fittings.
I have purchased several sprayers for around one dollar from a weekly general auction now I have new use for one of them. I have purchased a box junk and in the junk was a couple of air pressure gauges. I have bunches pf plastic lines.
You can also buy those 1/4 npt male hose barb fittings that swivel also.
Most brake reservor caps are the twist lock variety. Your PVC F NPT cap is useless with a twist lock reservoir.
Looks good. mimics a Motive brand unit pretty well. Only comment I would have is that with that giant cap for the master cylinder a good cup of fluid will dump out when you remove the cap. you really need one that is flat to the top of the M/C. An OEM cap from they junkyard would probably work fine.
Thanks.
Very good instruction set and video. Anyone just starting to work on cars will find this valuable. Your approach to this is ideal - don't assume how much your audience knows, detail every step.
I found that 10 -15 lbs pressure to be adequate. I discovered the hard way that on my E30 some low pressure lines were not clamped and that would have made a mess if I hadn't inspected the whole system prior to the brake flush.
Can you show a video on how to put that hose clamp on?
I just purchase this of eBay an spent $77 dollars...should've looked at this video first..great job!
Alot of folks that use the pressure type commercial power bleeders only supply pressurization air in the slave air tank. They bleed one wheel at a time, refilling the master cylinder only after bleeding each wheel position. This eliminates having to thoroughly clean the slave tank. This gets more complicated on advanced braking systems like stability control.
Also bleeding should be done starting with the furthest wheel from the master cylinder usually the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. Some wheel cylinders have two bleed screws. In that case bleed the lower screw first, then the upper. Most pro's will follow a pressure bleed with a usual final manual bleed using the brake pedal and two folks to accomplish the task. You want a rock hard stop when you are done bleeding on the brake pedal.
Always use fresh fluid, and don't store an opened can. Brake fluid attracts moisture in the air when stored in a partial can.
That way only works for Front/Rear Split systems. For Diagonally split systems you would have to do Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front.
I am not sure anyone said this, but with regards to getting air in the lines from this pressurizer, The presenter likely didn't mention this, but if the tank is filled with a measure of fluid ( brake, coolant, etc, ) then pumped up to pressurize and force the fluid out into the hose and then into the system, unless I am highly mistaken, it will be nothing but fluid that is forced out of the tank and into the lines, and then push the old fluid out the brake bleeders or coolant bleeder screws etc of the systems.
I just put the pressure gauge in between the hoses with a T fitting. Then I put a turn valve after that to turn the fluid on or off just in case the cap for the brake reservoir leaks
You will need to have some sort of seal in the tank adapter a tapered fitting that comes in the antifreeze pressure fill might work or you can have a machinist make you one out of aluminum all he needs is the tank so he can come up with the right thread pitch.
worked for me dnt blame the instructor ( human error ) also u have to match up your reservoir cap for proper fit duhh pay attention if u have a diff car from the video the concept works just fit the cap to your vehicle some caps can be found online so like i said it worked for me Rob spear thanks again DYI ,
The pump will be able to handle the brake fluid, these tanks are used to hold very powerful spray insect fluids etc.
i would suggest a hand help "tap" holder....a tap for making threads in whatever mostly metals.its adjustable and holds drill bits .this forces you to slowy turn the bit so no debris flies all over...just two cents from 25 yrs of mfg maint.
I did one of these. Not expensive at all but the only issue I had was that the master cylinder cap didn't seal. It needs something to wrap underneath the MC and apply down pressure to keep the cap in place.
Thank you for the great video and taking the time to show all the details. One question for any pressure type brake bleeder operations-why put brake fluid in the pressure vessel why not just keep the brake reservoir topped off and just apply air pressure to system through the reservoir cap? This method would prevent a disaster if cap or hose comes apart from spraying brake fluid all over, would keep any impurities in pressure vessel from getting into fluid and finally it would prevent overfilling the reservoir like in your demo where you flush you beamer system and had to suck some out after the flush.
Thanks for the quick response, I feel like a dummy though…
Had I actually watched the video until the end (as I did the 2nd time) I would have gotten the answer to my question…
Thanks for these videos, they are very clear and concise videos, I will be looking at a lot of this servicing, soon, on my 2006 750li.
I just finished watching the transmission oil change- I’m ready to tackle that pig too… ☺
Good vid, Put the cap on the brake reservior before you add the hose so as not to have to keep turning the pressure bottle as you screw the cap on.
Don't even need one!just watched to see if he ever finished! !! A cooking video would be great!!!
Use a step drill bit. I think the wall of the pump sprayer is too thin to tap because it will only have 1 thread. A bulkhead fitting would seal and be a better connection....
Looks good ..... with a modified OEM cap I believe it might seal better .... though I can't see how the air gauge would seal in the thin plastic under 22psi, whats recommended for Mercedes .... though an inline gauge could be incorporated .... I may give this a go, Thank-you!
Looks like a great idea.
My one question is, what happens to the air between the brake bleeder including the hose and the brake fluid reservoir when you start pressing fluid into the system, does all that air have to be pushed through the system.
That a good observation. I would "prime " the line with fluid first.
That is how you do the pressure bleeders, prime the line first and completely fill resovoir
if u know how to properly change brake pads you wouldn't get air in the system to start with. but, if you fill the sprayer bottle with brake fluid this would assist in doing a complete fluid change.
Brake fluid is Hygroscopic, it attracts moist (water) from the surrounding air and the water will lower the boilingpoint of the brake fluid and will cause corrosion in brakelines.
These DIY cheap pressure brake bleeders will push even more moist from the air into the brake fluid. That is the main reason why the more expensive pressure brake bleeder are made in stainless steel, and use a rubber membrane that separed the pressurised air from the brake fluid, to keep the moist out of brake fluid.
These cheap pressure brake bleeders are more suitable for transfering oil or cooling water, but not for brake fluids.
Holy cats!!! Please tell me you are the artist behind "Odd Todd"!! It's got to be!
I would secure some type of nut on the other side of your pressure gauge. Over time, you don't want it to loosen as 25 PSI will send it flying.
That's nice instructions, but I bought the Motive kit (new) for use on my S10 on EBay for $35 and free shipping. I'm not sure you could actually build it any cheaper.
Yo did not get the satisfaction from building something though
Thanks Juan I appreciate the kind words, God Bless you.
You can skip the pump stage by running a line to a tire - the tire pressure is perfect for brake bleeding...
Made this little project but I need to find an adapter that will fit onto 2006 and newer Chevy Impala reservoirs, unfortunately its not a nice easy screw down type as you made. I had used a cap from a scrapped Impala, but it wouldn't hold any pressure. Good vid though.
I don’t think you even need to put brake fluid inside the sprayer. The air pressure built up inside the fluid reservoir from the sprayer will push out brake fluid when you crack
your bleeder valve. As long as your reservoir doesn’t run out of fluid, I don’t see how air could get into the system. Seems less messy to me just some food for thought
The only issue is you should have used a swival fitting on the cap. You are twisting the hose up when you attach the cap to the MS.
An Irwin Unibit (or similar) is much better for drilling holes in plastic and sheet metal. You'd be done in about 30 seconds with that. It won't catch and pull in like a twist drill can.
Is there a video of this in action? Id love to see how it gets used.
Just one note of caution, on some cars it is possible to' turn' the seals in the master cylinder using pressure bleeding, be careful.
Nothing (almost nothing/no common adhesive) will stick to polypropylene! Use the boxed-end of a wrench if possible. Bad form.
You went to great lengths to seal the fittings on the sprayer tank, but what seals the PVC cap on the reservoir? Probably a rubber stopper would do that. LOTS of work and expense when you could buy a cheap unit made for doing the job. You can also suck fluid through the brake system for less money.
Replace your drill bits with Unibits. Harbor Freight has affordable sets! Thanks for the vid!
Or just drill one hole with the size bit you need... It's plastic, not freaking carbide.
do you work for the brass fitting company ?
I fell asleep so hard watching this. Like the best nap I've ever had. Feels like I slept 4 hours but it's only been 7 minutes
Hahahaha
Well, I'll be dipped in old brake fluid - tried building one of these and it worked.
Will the USA ever go metric.... ?? These sizes you quote went out with the Arc
I had a problem with the cap when I did the leak check with air. I used JB weld on the inside fitting threads because the cap was to thin. Also use an O ring in the inside diameter of the reservoir. This was on a ford expedition 03. After this was done and it able to hold a pressure 10 PSI and the bleeding went as plan with in 15min...
A pool sand filter pressure gauge is ideal for this with the correct range.
excellent vid ! however - your link for the 1/4-1/4 hose barb goes to a female threaded not the male threaded as videoed
.... you could also eliminate the air gauge and just measure how many pumps it takes to get up to desired pressure .... save even more :)
Great job. First of your videos that I come across and it is great that you explain step by step so even the most mechanically challenged can follow along.
I would prefer clear tubing so I can see if the fluid is flowing. That way I don't push air into the system
Exactly. This contraption will do more harm than good. Use a VACUUM bleeder if you must but the usual pump and dump method works best.
A better idea is to use a spare car or bicycle tire leaked down to 7 psi. Attach an air hose from a cheap tire hand pump to connect to the modified master cylinder reservoir cap. Use a shop air quick disconnect in order to screw on the cap and remove when adding more brake fluid.
I swapped out all four rotors and worn pads while watching this video. Clicking SUBSCRIBE so I can get the unedited long-play version with behind-the-scene footage and car chase finale.
i think you should add a valve to the line going to the master cylinder so you can pump up the pressure on the ground instead of having to pump the pressure with the tank on top of the engine.
dont drill use a soldering iron or heated steel rod to melt a nice sized hole which will have a thick melted edge mounting.
Home Depot has 2 1 gallon pressure sprayers for $10, as well as most of the fittings. As for the cap, why not get a spare brake fluid cap from the junkyard with a seal in it? Also that pressure gauge is no longer available from your list.
this idea makes sense, looks nice. but it seems overly complicated. is there a reason with this or some vehicles where the bottle with a tube doesn't work for solo bleed?
Great video on how to drill holes the hard way in plastic. Why not use a step drill. I doubt that jimmied in fitting will hold any air pressure. Do you know for sure that generic plastic pump can stand up to brake fluid? How about the white cap? It looks like ABS which will melt for sure. Did I miss the part where you sucked all the leftover plastic debris out of the tank with a shop vac?Brake fluid is murder on most plastics. The last thing I want in my system is melted dissolved plastic.You are going to get leaks for sure around that cap. Also you need a filter of some kind between the cap and M/C.
that's one of the real DIY project
I like what ya done here but I'm not clear on how it stays connected to the master top. most don't really thread on n they're all pretty much different sizes. just curious. thanks for the video.
When you installed the pressure gauge and barb fitting why didn't you just tap the hole to fit the threads. Would have been much easier. You did come up with a great set up that is very cost effective.
looks like an easy way to pump air into your system, not mention the risk of getting fluid all over your car if you forget to release the pressure.
Thanks buddy you saved my wallet cost $28.00 to make and it works great!!!
break fluid will eat thru stock hose that comes with sprayer and plastic pump...
yo macgiver..enjoyed the narration
I think a step drill would be faster and easier for all the drilling. Just keep testing the size with the gauge or fitting as you go.
Reverse bleed it with this setup and avoid all the screwing around trying to find caps to seal the reservoir.
Yes I've have seen those units there very nice, I was thinking of buying one but then I built this for total cost of about 15-16 dollars because I already had the gauge. It was just cool to make. Thanks for watching:)
How do you use a HDX bleeder vacuum pump
Howdoyouusethehdxbleedervscpump
Howdoyouusethehdxbleedervacpump
Did you do the follow up video where we can see this in action?
I like the DIY effort but, won't the pressure cause air bubbles to be forced into the brake fluid?