Insulation Board Cutting Trick
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 лис 2021
- Check out our 2-minute tip playlist.
▶ • 2-Minute Tips
Roger shows us how he likes to cut PIR board or PUR board with perfectly straight edges without using expensive power tools.
If you're happy to spend the money, check out the Festool ISC 240.
🛒 Festool ISC 240 Basic: amzn.to/3kPzh7a
🛒 Festool ISC 240 + Batteries: amzn.to/36cQPWK
🛒 Festool ISC 240 Complete Kit: amzn.to/2G9zXVU
==========================================
#2MinTip #PIRBoard #InsulationBoard
🌲 Skill Builder Link Tree: linktr.ee/skillbuilder
👍 Tell us what you like: skill-builder.uk/vote
📪 Ask Skill Builder: skill-builder.uk/send
📣 Facebook: / skillbuilderchannel
📷 Instagram: / skill_builder
🛒 As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases
🎬 All videos: ua-cam.com/users/skillbuilderc...
💧 We Support Charity Water: www.charitywater.org
◾ Out of respect to our channel sponsors and the wide variety of people who watch our videos, we'll remove comments that do not follow common standards of politeness and decency.
I suggested this at work today (It's logical and I'm a perfectionist), and got told no-one does this and to do it by eye and that it takes too long. I think it's the way to go! Do it nice.. or do it twice
I use a breeze block saw. Thick chunky metal and stays straight with the weight. You also get less fine dust coming off it too.
Tried that two cut method yesterday and it is much better, like Roger says, the first cut does control where the second is going, never thought that would work. Cheers! 👍
After struggling with fitting of 100mm thick celotex that I cut free hand I searched for a better way of cutting it and found this video. The technique demonstrated makes the whole process much easier and less of a struggle to fit the insulation. Thank you Rodger.
Assuming you didn't get your timber from Travis 😂
😂😂😂
That’s funny 🤣🤣
Banana from Travis
Just wanted to say thank you. Your tips made the job so much easier, saved me hours!
Good advice for people who don’t have a load of tools at hand. I found the perfect solution for me, I use my track saw to do one pass at its max depth then finish with the hand saw. Comes out perfect.
Good tip, this is not a video for pros.
This is the thing, there’s usually a tool for every job. If we tradesman bought all these tools - we’d have so many wouldn’t be able to find them in the van anyhow!
Yeah, but don't you expect to have a saw and board at most any job site? Not exactly specialty tools on my jobs.
Good point made… especially being a carpenter.
Exactly!!!! Its ridiculous these companies coming out with all these stupid tools all they do is take away the skill from the tradesman. Anyone thats good and skillfull at their job can cut this free hand well enough. Cant believe festool have made a tool just for cutting celotex 🤦🏻♂️
Dewalt do a tool finding machine. Best thing I ever bought. Find 98% of tools in the van. Not cheap and has a couple of niggles but works most of the time. I bought it after having a ryobi one which was ok but the boys used to take the piss out of me and it probably wasn’t powerful enough even though I don’t know the difference. Festool do one that is 100% accurate but more expensive and you have to buy a different type for every tool you want to find …. but you should see the carry case system 👍
@@matta1475 why if its quicker and less dust
I find if you use a cordless circular saw with an old blade, it will go through most of the board with a clean square cut. Then, cut through the rest of it with a decent 3 inch scraper.
from there, you can cut them into discs, about 300 to 400mm wide. These are just the right size to fling at Insulate Britain protesters from the van.
Ha!!
I use my recip saw 🙄
@@NorthernFoxingUK With gaffa tape round the trigger and battery attached?
Yeah so do I. Very quickly got my mask as it makes a mess 👍🏻👍🏻
@@NorthernFoxingUK Why the hell don't I use my reciprocating saw?!?! What am I doing with my life? Thanks for improving my life in five words :-)
When I converted our double garage in lockdown I told my missus I needed a MAFELL MT55CC KIT and a Festool CT26 extractor to cut the insulation board. It worked perfectly with a really straight cut and zero tear out! 😂
Love the videos 👍
I need a wife like yours, sounds ideal and very well trained..tell her I'm after a chop saw
I'd have done this, if the timber yard had delivered actual straight lumber. Nice one Roger 👍
Good tip! I have struggled with the 90 degree thing in the past
Good trick of the trade, I made a jig up years ago on a Workmate where the sheet is clamped between 2 long pieces of wood so the saw blade had a guide both sides. Trouble with that stuff is the tiny particles that come off, they are not biodegradable, I ended up getting my mate Henry Hoover to clear up the crumbs.
Great tip!
I run mine through my Bosch table saw. Takes seconds and perfectly square. Dust extraction is a must
Something I discovered purely by chance when cutting insulation board, myself being left handed I found that if I used an old saw that had only previously been used by a right hand person i found it would make my cuts perfectly staight, I then got one of my old saws that had only been used by me a lefty and got my mate who is right handed to cut the insulation board and again the cut was perfectly straight, it must be something to do with the slight warp in the saw blades that corrects the cut when sawing and makes it cut straight, it only seems to work if its an old saw, give it a go next time your Celotexing a loft room.
That's a spot on tip mate 👌👌👌👏👏
Watch everyone claim this is just an advert for PIR Insulation board!
Good tip.
Its just an advert for PIR insulation board! 🤭
Weirdly enounce rodger was promoting gap o tape as well lol Wish he coud make up his mind....
@@johnf3326 tbh, this is just an advert for saws and 4"x2".
@@stakkerhmnd 🤣
Only here to see the Stakker
Best tips I’d give you, get a bahco barracuda saw. Thicker blade than most shite hard points. I personally have the interchangeable blade system handle, buy my blades in bulk. Much cheaper. They also do a plaster board blade for the system that has a different setup with the teeth. Again thicker blade anti friction and clears quick.
Just recently purchased some jigsaw blades that is perfect for the job. I will keep you posted how they perform!
Almost like you knew what I was going to be doing this week! Thanks
We are watching you watching us.
Thanks Roger. I've just started insulting my attic and have quickly become fed up with dodgy cuts I've been making. I'll try this in the morning.
Just doing an above garage room and had to cut 100mm PIR. Wanted a festool saw but cannot justify it for the price. However this technique while it takes longer does give me near perfect cuts. I use a PIR saw (which yes can only do up to 75mm but using this method of 2 passes can handle 100mm fine).
Thanks for sharing this amazing solution
I never liked cutting that stuff but I'm warming to it!
your costumers love the foam dust in their garden !😁
I use my Fezzie jigsaw on the guide rail with a longer wood blade NOT the specific wave blade, cuts perfectly square and some dust extraction. Found this quicker on thick boards or knife and snap on thinner boards.
I use an axe and expanding foam….lots of it
Great advice. We employed a builder for some work in the loft, and thankfully I went and inspected the work as they were starting to insulate, and had to stop the mate, as the gaps were awful. He was very soon shown a better method by his boss !
Sounds like you could have just done it yourself
Handy tip!
Great tip
I’ve just done this job on my extension as a none trade person and I can confirm 100% that keeping a handsaw more horizontal to the board delivered a squarer edge, and that’s what the piece of timber does. However, it was still time consuming because timber is naturally affected by twists and bows in joists and rafters, making every gap unique and I felt like I had to custom fit every piece of inso making it a TOAJ! #imapenpusher.
Going through this myself. I am attempting to insulate 2x4 walls in my former hunting cabin that appeared sometime in the 50s, with many studs damaged by years of roof and shower leaks, not to mention my imprecise repairs and twinning. I think I will use a hot wire to trace the messed up studs instead of the knife I did the first 2 bays with.
This is where gapotape is starting to come in handy, expensive fix but saves a lot of time, stress and mess
For 50mm you can use a snap off 18mm knife - much less dust
Or you could use 2 pieces of timber fixed together with a small gap between. If you can find any straight enough!
Great idea
Nice tip! I usually just use a razor and snap it, but I haven't ever worked with any that thick, and mine definitely isn't always perfectly straight.
I’ve just done a job with 140 sheets of celotex in it, I used a table saw with an extractor hooked up to it was so much quicker and surprisingly little dust
100mm?
@@TurinTuramber it was actually almost all 75 but with the 100 in the ceilings I run it through at full depth then snap and cut the foil with a Stanley knife
I always use a table saw hooked up to a vac with a cyclone separator in line. Almost dust free, super fast and always square cuts. The biggest advantage though is the cut is totaly free of the tiny pieces you get when cutting with a hand saw. These are the bits that get in your eyes, and statically attract to dust masks, eye lashes and everything else.
@@MrBez007 I keep meaning to make a cyclone, I was emptying out my dust bag every 4 sheets on this job. The improvement in quality using a table saw makes it a no brainier if you have a fair bit to do
@@benchippy8039 you will never look back. I didn't know how well it would work with kingspan type dust with it being so light but it's amazing. I use a vac with no bag, just a filter and no dust gets to it. Also dead easy to empty.
Table saw.... accurate and fast!
Thank you : )
Thank you good lad 🎶🎶🙏
Good tip.
I use my track saw, then if it's deeper than 50mm I'll follow up with the handsaw.
I use a 10 inch smooth blade chefs knife, held against a straight edge 2 strikes and its through 100mm insulation and gives a quite a good cut edge, a quick pull through a sharpener every dozen or so cut keeps the edge cutting clean.
Good tip, I will try and steal one from Gordon Ramsey.
Thank you.
Circular saw then hand saw, hooked up to my extractor it makes far less mess and the track makes the cuts perfect.
Thank you
I've cut a Stiff handsaw to fit my jigsaw. Works a treat and can cut 300mm celotex with it, Just hook up the hoover to the jigsaw and away you go
Good tip Roger. The Festool is too expensive for me... but if DeWalt brought one out I'd snap it up just for the time saved! 👍😉
I find the problem is the joist is bowed, so you always have gaps anyway. I just use a Stanley knife to cut through partially and then use force to break the board in a straight line, then fill in the gaps as much as you can with foam and use foil tape too.. literally can't do much more without replacing all the joists with new straight engineered stuff.
Thanks
I Use my dewalt plunge saw to 50mm with guide rails and hoover attached. Switch over and mark the same line, attach guide rails and finish the other side. Perfect clean cuts and no mess or nasty dust flying around
I use a 12v Milwaukee sawzall to cut pir. Zips through in no effort at all and with thick blades cuts plum every time. Its foolproof
you know if I did this again, I would get PIR board pre cut on a cutting bench with dust extraction, and have the chippy put the board in between the rafters as he's going along. This would save so much time and money and you would have less gaps.
Two bites of the cherry will always get my vote. 😳👍🇬🇧
I use insulation saw no dust or jigsaw festtool blade in max 150 mm cut very clean these have a blade edge instead of teeth
Use a more rigid hand saw it works great
200mm jigsaw blade, works a treat👍
I find if you go through with a fast motion but with hardly any pressure on the blade it gets good results. Half of it is the measuring as well. You don't want to be beating it to death with a piece of wood.. we've all seen a half hearted effort of kingspaning before 😂
About to fit 150mm Celotex in the ceiling joists of my Conservatory Polycarbonate -to- flat roof conversion - just watched the video on Gapo tape - what a brilliant idea - anything to make the job easier and cut down on the cold spots - just looked on Gapo tape website but it seems the biggest tape they make is ony 140mm? can I use this on 150mm Celotex? - which is
actually finished 147mm, Regards Nick
Great video Roger, only thing is nothing else in the house seems true!
Yes that is a problem and a lot of the time the foam gun is the only way around it.
Battery skill saw and clamp the timber to the insulation then finish off with a hand saw if the materials is thicker than you skill saw blade
Bosch do long jigsaw blades they look like a bread knife makes job easy with a straight edge plus hardly any dust !
I filed the teeth off an old jigsaw blade and left it like a knife. It went through it like butter.
You can buy insulation jigsaw blades pretty cheap, however if you've cutting anything over 50mm they do tend to wander all over the place on the underside.
Best thing since sliced bread 🍞
Best thing since sliced insulation board.
Hey Roger, im starting a new build soon and I am in two minds about going for PIR or pumped insulation for the cavity walls. It will be a double skin 4 inch solid block wall. If it was your house what would you go for? Appreciate the help. Keep up the great work.
Hopefully Roger may get chance to reply too but I have a friend that has a business pumping condensed paper into stud walls, was chatting to him recently over a curry and its quite technical but I think the benefits he saw in pumped condensed paper was its qualities for heat absorption and diffusion . Imagine an oak timber framed building on a very hot day, what you want the insulation to actually do is absorb heat in the day but release it in the evening . I've just come up with a term for this, 'passive or active' insulation, that is the gist I got, claiming no massive expertise. Have an acronym for energy efficiency in the house in general RCC, stands for Radiated, conducted and convected (drafts) heat loss, imagine the difference it would make to cumulative energy use if the whole nation adopted and utilised that acronym , would slash our imports of energy. I walk the talk, have literally just used thermal wall paper on a cold north wall to stop 'Conducted heat loss". All credit to Roger for producing the video, keep up the good wok mate. Good luck finding the best insulation.
I wish I saw this 6 months ago!!
Hi Sir, how are you? Can I buy insulation that has been used for under slab insulation and use it for cavity insulation? Thank you
A good eye and 40 years on the tools, hand saw 🪚 spot on. Near enough isn’t good enough, nearly 90 degrees, no skill in almost. 😂😂😂😂😂
a moon knife is the best for cutting this. with or without the timber.
Hi Rodger, I've got a small extension pitched roof that I'm insulating with kingspan. The rafters are 6x2 and the kingspan is 75mm thick. Should I just double up on the kingspan? Would appreciate any advice from you
What about leaving an air gap?
I use a track saw and follow up with a hand saw.
just done 40 sqm of 150mm, i found the best way was clamp a straight edge to the board, cut through with jigsaw then finish off with handsaw. bought a Bahco insulation saw but found a normal handsaw to be better. Found best way to cut is a touch smaller than needed as rafters were rarely 90 deg, then fill with low expansion Soudal foam and foil tape.
Much better video, informative without being preachy...
Cut one side with a sharp knife and a straight edge, flip it over, fold and snap it to see where the line is, then just slice the foil on that side.
If you’re only going halfway through on the first cut then you could make it even more accurate by flipping the board over and marking the line again and completing the cut from both sides.
Yes I did think of this and it would be better. The video I should have made....
How would you slice that in half?
Trick here use an old rusty saw for cutting.
It not sticking as new ones.
First scribe isulation, than cut it along the scribe.
Can get purpose made saws for PIR
Nice one Rog , we have those masks ….. excellent with no resistance to your breathing 😷👌🏼🧱🤙🏽
Or use a Festool guide rail saw😁 got one of those already...
Maybe time to move onto foil insulation, have it in my loft conversion and it took no time at all to install and with no dust.
Multifoil is convenient but it will not match the U value of PUR and PIR
Soft material jigsaw blades! They are designed for celotex.
There is no contest, get a Bahco insulation saw, it has no teeth so makes no dust or mess and you can cut 5 mm off a sheet easy, goes through a full sheet like butter, dead straight.
I have one but it is hard work in a 100mm thick PIR. It is designed for Rockwool
@@SkillBuilder yeah I got one of those bahcos hoping it would be the magic tool, worked on the wool ok but a real fight to go through 90-100mm PIR. Went back to a jigsaw with long blade. Wish I had tried your way or my track saw half way then hand saw. I think full sheets might be a struggle on the table saw. Next time.
Nice tip! Gets tiring seeing videos "suggesting" people just use tools worth £hundreds the majority of people don't have!
Jigsaw , works every time
Is it fine to put floor 22mm Chip board directly ontop of 100mm PIR ?
Yes so long as you glue the T&G joints
£38.40 for an 8 x 4 x 3" board recently! 😱
Where can I get it that cheap now?
Diyer here. My loft currently has that wool like insulation, I want to convert the loft into a room. Do I need to remove the old wool insulation for the new PIR board or can I just plaster board straight over the top of the old stuff? Thanks
You will need a higher grad insulation for sure so that will be PIR board but even then you might need an air gap behind it so you will have to board over the rafters on the inside as well as putting pir board in between each rafter.
@@SkillBuilder thanks for the reply. I saw robin do it on the big build. Ok so once I put the ecotherm over the top, do I then plaster board over the top of that? Does it have to be special plaster board? Many thanks
👍👍
Better use Isoleika's ISO-CON panels. class A1 fire rated and 0.02 W/mK, apart of x2,5 compressive strength! 👍
Yeah but 100mm PIR is 0.022 W/mk so what's the advantage?
@@JC-zw9vs is 10% better insulation, and PIR is highly flammable, not like microporous. You can see Grenfell tower fire. Was all PIR covered...
Theoretically 10%, but in a practical sense nobody is going to notice the difference. And you don't explain any of the disadvantages or costs of such a product
@@JC-zw9vs maybe you can show us the disadvantages.
If you talk about price, ask Grenfell peoples families about it, if they had not paid to have their relatives here. Safety is first!
That 10% is not theoretically, is really.
Can I stick these boards on the wall in my indoor wardrobe? I’ve got damp and mould coming through
yes you can but the damp and mould will be condensation. You need to reduce the moisture in the air by extracting the air more effectively in the kitchen and shower rooms.
@@SkillBuilder thanks I appreciate your help 👍
Roger, so many of my colleagues use a saw or a box cutter and having crocked edges and then use PUR foam to close the gabs. But that's not the way to do it, right? Please make a video about this: "Why you need straight edges which will give you a more structural highperformance insulation install. It is all about a high R-construction.
The comments I get. It takes too much time to cut cleanly and straight. The PUR will close the gabs. Don't worry. But it is a sloppy job as you would ask me. What do you (and others) think?
Circular saw and years of experience in running a saw square
Use an insulation saw, saves all the dusty rough edges
👍👍👍👍👍
If you are a long time carpenter, you have a few spare skilsaws lying around, I find it easier to use one of those with an old blade, as long as it cuts at 90°, goes much faster that way. Hey I remember once I had really really tough styrofoam that my hand saw would consatantly get stuck in and was very hard to saw. I did not take any skilsaws with mt that day, but I did have a chainsaw, so guess what happened next.
The Gordon Ramsey of carpenters
👍
Will those boards take paint ? Any info welcome . Thanks
You can paint them but don't do that outside because they are not weatherproof.
@@SkillBuilder Ok Thanks.
Looking like Gordon Ramsay lol
Just put some quick clamps on it and away you go .
Better still circular saw with extractor attached then Finnish off with saw if to thick
Oh honestly
Bosch T1013AWP
I use a Jig Saw with a long blade
I have tried that and it still meanders
But the song says that the first cut is the deepest?