How to Fit and Secure Insulated Plasterboard
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- Опубліковано 5 чер 2022
- How do you fit and secure insulated plasterboard? That's a question quite a few of our UA-cam viewers have asked. So in this short video, John will show you the exact method we use for fitting and securing insulated plasterboard and the materials involved in the process.
Insulated plasterboard is different to normal plasterboard (not just because it has a layer of insulation 😄) but also because it has a different, shiny coating. This means the usual dot and dab method of securing it to a wall is insufficient.
Instead we secure the plasterboard using this process:
🔵 𝗦𝗧𝗘𝗣 𝗢𝗡𝗘 - Attach the plasterboard to the external wall using Illbruck PU010 panel adhesive (any form of panel adhesive can be used here, we prefer to use Illbruck);
🔵 𝗦𝗧𝗘𝗣 𝗧𝗪𝗢 - Use a mechanical insulation fixing (they look a bit like a golf tee) to prevent the plasterboard from slipping. These come in different lengths depending on the thickness of your insulated plasterboard. Drill through the plasterboard and into the brickwork to the desired length. The diameter of the hole will depend on the diameter of the fixing. Tap the fixing into place. The 'teeth' grip the brickwork in the same way a raw plug would.
🔵 𝗦𝗧𝗘𝗣 𝗧𝗛𝗥𝗘𝗘 - Plaster over the insulated plasterboard, ensuring that the mechanical fixings are hidden.
𝗪𝗛𝗬 𝗦𝗛𝗢𝗨𝗟𝗗 𝗟𝗔𝗡𝗗𝗟𝗢𝗥𝗗𝗦 𝗨𝗦𝗘 𝗜𝗡𝗦𝗨𝗟𝗔𝗧𝗘𝗗 𝗣𝗟𝗔𝗦𝗧𝗘𝗥𝗕𝗢𝗔𝗥𝗗?
As a landlord of a HMO, you will be paying the energy bills as opposed to the tenants. Therefore, it's wise to insulate the property as well as possible from the outset to reduce heat loss.
Insulated plasterboard is great for reducing heat loss - especially in older properties. It's also great for protecting against damp issues such as condensation.
Moreover, it can boost your EPC rating. And considering the new EPC regulations that will take effect in 2025, it can prove its worth for that reason alone.
More information regarding the forthcoming changes to EPC regulations can be found here: bit.ly/epc_regulations_2025
Take a look at our recent projects here: hypebuilding.co.uk/projects
Need help with your refurbishment project?
Get HYPE! Call us on 01782 930043.
#propertydevelopment #landlord #insulation
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Nice. Very interesting, as always!
Thanks, once again, for the great feedback, Mike. We truly appreciate it. 👌 Hope you find the content useful 🙂
Wicked video pal. Very Informative. Take care
Thank you so much for watching and for the great feedback. We're glad you found the content useful 😀👌
Always follow manufacturers instructions when using insulation products and comply with building regs. In the event of a fire and if someone gets injured or killed not only will the insurance be invalid you will be held responsible! You Tube videos from the manufacturers are the first place to start along with the technical data sheet.
This was signed off by building control.
Thanks for the video - it helped me a lot. One tip from me. I have a 1930's house with very loose mortar. I ended up with quite a few holes where the fixings did not work. Next time I will mark the position of the anchors on the wall, transfer these to the boards, drill holes the holes then dry fit the boards and used a spray marker to check the holes were in the correct place. I'll let you know the result on the next room.
We're glad you found the content useful, Mike. Thank you for watching and your comments 🙂👌
50 mm stud fill with rockwool place 37.5 mm over that and no issue this is the wrong way
Thank for video was very helpful for my project 👍🏻
You're most welcome. We're glad you found our video useful. Thank you so much for watching and leaving us your thoughts 🙂👍
love it mate good vid
Hi there. Thanks for watching and for your kind words - very much appreciated 👍
Brilliant iam sure they use to only dot and dab 45 years ago i remember MIH houseing in liverpool was the first housing association to use dry liner boards in country
ideal thank you
@HYPEbuilding brilliant video thanks! I’m planning on installing PIR boards on the external (internal) walls of my house as you have in the video, my question is, being a 1900 house (solid brick no cavity) some of the walls get quite damp. I’m pretty sure it’s not rising damp and more likely due to really piss poor pointing externally and moisture getting in.
Would you advise getting rid of the old render (because its that old it comes off easily and needs replacing all over the house anyway) battening then installing a moisture barrier then the PIR to create the cavity or just crack on and either dot and dab or foam the PIR boards on?
Sorry for the essay.
Very informative video, thank you. Could I just ask whether you would have any options on dealing with the issue of damp if you were not able to treat/clad the external wall? I am considering this, but can't touch my outside walls.
Thank you for your kind words and for watching our video, Tim. We truly appreciate it. What sort of damp is it that you're referring to? Is it penetrative damp or rising damp?
The plastic fixings are designed for external wall insulation only. You need the metal fixings to meet building regs for internal wall insulation fixing 👍
Hi there. Thanks for watching our video. You can use metal fixings, but we chose to use plastic ones. They have - like all our work - been passed by Building Control.
correct the idea is if there is a fire the the boards should stay on the walls and not trap you in the property when foam burns etc.
I'm putting insulation plasterboards over an old studied wall with little or no insulation, I was told I can just use long screws with rawplug rings
@@sid75carroll53if you have studs, you screw directly into the studs. You can use metal cement board washers for the screws too which improves the hold
@@sid75carroll53metal insulation disks with long screws, ideal. not plastic
Do you think you can do this method striaght onto painted walls without going back to brick?
I find foam adhesive on the back of the boards and then drill 6mm masonry bit through board into wall 4” deep. Push in a red rawl plug and then screw in a no. 5 - 100mm screw does the job. About 16 screws per 8x4 board. Very interesting about council inspection.
The theory is that metal screws are a cold bridge through the insulation, causing a cold spot and condensation. These plastic fixings avoid that, and won't rust.
@@robinbennett5994 the only problem I have found using metal screws are the heads are a bit small and pull through the plasterboards, hence why I use no.5 screws that have a reasonably large head. As for rust I will wait to see. I have been using this method for 6 years. No problem yet. I was wondering if there were alternatives and I think the plastic fixings look ideal. We are always looking to improve
@@robinbennett5994 I was told by bco that the plastic fixings were not acceptable in case of a fire and I had to use the metal fixings.
@@REDGRIFFIN100 ah, that makes sense, and is well worth knowing - thanks.
That is exactly what I did, tho to me its a 10 by 4" screws lol. I am just about to try something different, Ordered 200 tattoo ink cups, gonna drill out plaster board, Maybe with a flat bit, bit of glue, not sure which yet them push in the cups that have a lip which should catch the face of the board. Having drill a hole thru the cup I can then fix thru with a screw. The cup should act as a recessed plastic washer.....hopefully. Then squirt in expanding foam or cut a plug from some insulation to fill the hole and hopefully discourage cold bridging. If it works well I will report back.
will this work with things like savolit which is a wood/cement board for lime plastering?
I’ve just done my utility room this way, it’s solid but I’m not impressed with the thickness of the head on the plug, it’s about 2mm so gets in the way when you plaster and is difficult to completely conceal in a skim. I may experiment with countersinking the head next time with a suitable spade bit.
Hi John. Thanks for watching. rather than countersinking, you should be able to literally just tap the fixings in a little further. This should sink them beneath the surface and allow you to skim over without any issues 👍
Great video, thanks for explaining. Would you say this is a better method than wood battoning and fixing with screws? I'm thinking hanging radiators and heavy items would be better to have some wood to drill into behind the boards. X
Wood or hemp insulation is a much better way to insulate. Wood fiber is vapor permeable. It is also important to put a vapor permeable render underneath the batts and use a vapor permeable wall board or plaster. Using metal fasteners is not recommended as it causes thermal bridging. ua-cam.com/video/D9ZC2oS1sww/v-deo.html
They do special metal equivalent versions of the plastic plugs you use which hold up better in the even of a fire. The plastic plugs are lightweight and are designed for insulation only (not plasterboard). Just from the research I've been doing. Great video, but thought I would share what I have found.
Hi there. You're absolutely right, the metal fixings are better. However, we use the plastic fixings in combination with an ultra-strong panel adhesive - so we're making absolutely sure that there will be no movement.
How many metal plugs would you use per 8'x4' sheet of 72.5m insulated plasterboard?? @@HYPEBuilding
Do the metal ones have something to stop transfer of cold/damp coming through to the plasterboard? I think the plastic ones combined with the adhesive is a much better choice
Hi @@Peterk1992 Thanks for watching and for your question. You would need 6 to 8 metal plugs for plasterboard of this size 👍
Hi @@russellthomas9391. Thanks for your question. The metal ones don't have anything to prevent this happening.
great video quick question if im installing the insulated plasterboard onto an internal single skin wall should I use a dpm barrier?
Hi there. Thanks for watching and for the great feedback. In relation to your question, you shouldn't need a DPM barrier. Just ensure you have an active DPC.
Hope that helps 🙂👍
Nice. So no need to batten the wall with wooden studs and insulate in between? Just stick the insulation to the solid wall with this plastic plugs?
Great video - wondering what you do with the joins to maintain both vapour barrier and to avoid any potential for air gaps ?
Hi Rob. Thanks for your question. If you take your time in the cutting process so that there are no gaps, it should be fine - and the vapour barrier will remain. Hope that helps.
Thank you for watching our video - much appreciated 🙂👍
Won't moisture will get between the joints only way to stop is to use pir and foil tape the joints then apply plasterboard
Can silicone the joints to ensure a continuos vapour barrier then put your scrim tape over
i read that you shouldn’t stick the board directly to a solid wall unless the outside is rendered or cladded. what do you think of this. would i be ok directly sticking it to my external walls that are 9 inch brick on outside?
Thanks for the explannation. I have a couple of qs if any1 can answer would be great.
1. Can this be applied to bare wall after prev plaster has been removed?
2. Can this be applied to part of the wall only, i.e. up to a certain height? Not for thermal reason but to treat damp prone area.
3. How far down, close to the floor do you go? I heard you shouldnt go right to the floor as damp can rise.
Thanks in advance.
Hi there, thanks for your questions. Here's what we think:
1. Yes, you can apply the plasterboards to a bare wall after the plaster has been removed, but we would recommend using PVA or similar to get rid of any dust before installing them.
2. You can apply the plasterboards to whatever height you want but we would recommend taking them all the way to the ceiling.
3. It's best to leave a gap of a couple of inches from the floor in case the floor is uneven - this will then save the need for unnecessary cuts.
Hope that helps. Thanks for watching, we really appreciate it 🙂👍
Hiya
I am in exactly the situation you are working/commenting on within this video.
I have gone back to the brick and require soundproofing the party wall.
How my party walls are quite porous with it being an old terraced house. It pretty sanding/dry wall.
Would the adhesive you use work in sticking PIR board to the wall??
Or will I have to do something to the wall first to enable it to stick the PIR.
Hope you can help.
Hi there. Thank you for watching our video and for your questions. It's difficult to give you a solution without seeing it first-hand. However, if you're worried about the adhesion, you can use PVA or blue grit to help. Hope that helps 👍
Hi John, I've removed some plaster from my solid brick wall which has been knackered due to damp. Can I use specially cut plasterboard to patch in these gaps? I'm trying to avoid having to remove all of the remaining plaster! Would the membrane in the plasterboard stop the damp from returning?
Hi, Thanks for your questions. First and foremost, you need to identify the cause of the damp. Because the way you treat it will be different depending on the cause. Dealing with penetrating damp will be different from dealing with rising damp, for example. If you need a new damp course, the plaster will have to come off anyway.
Once you've established the cause, you can then treat it appropriately. Otherwise, all you'll be doing is masking the problem as opposed to solving it.
Therefore, in relation to your question, the membrane will not stop the damp returning. Eliminating the cause of the damp will stop the damp returning.
Hope that helps. Many thanks for watching our video - we genuinely appreciate it 🙂👍
Hi. I am going to be using these fixings for a room upgrade. On the timco site when using these fixings they recommend taping and sealing the heads. What does this mean?
Cheers for the help!
Hi Bernard. That's a great question 👌 Taping and sealing the heads basically means applying scrim tape over the head of the fixing. This holds it properly in place and prevents any movement, which could potentially crack the plaster.
If you're unfamiliar with scrim tape, it's like a mesh tape that has fibreglass threads woven into it. It's usually used to strengthen the joints in the plasterboard.
Hope that helps, mate. Thank you so much for watching our video and your question 👍
Hi, thanks for your video explaining how to approach securing the plasterboard to the wall. Can you give me a piece of advice? 1. When you cut the insulated board flush to the window, do you need to put on a reveal over that? 2. If the wall has already been skimmed previously, do you need to remove that and bring it back to the brick again or can you put the insulated platerboard over the skimmed wall? 3. Would it be better to skim over the newly fixed platerboard or would taping be an easier option? Any help would be warmly appreciated and thanks again for the vid.
Hi Darragh. Many thanks for watching and for your questions. Here's what we think:
1. You can do a reveal or you can cut the insulation so that plasterboard meets plasterboard. You can then attach an angle bead.
2. It's down to your personal preference. We go back to brick to make sure we're dealing with good quality plaster. If you're confident the existing plaster is in good shape then it should be OK.
3. Again, this boils down to your skillset. Either option is viable.
Hope that helps, mate 👍
@@HYPEBuilding Thanks so much for replying and giving some advice, it is much appreciated, keep up the good work on the channel, it's great.
@@darraghcannon6689 You're most welcome, Darragh. Hope your project goes well. Thanks again for your kind words - much appreciated 😊👍
Hi. Thank you for all your videos. Can I ask, can insulated plaster board be stuck and fixed to an existing plaster wall?
I am particularly worried about preventing damp and condensation.
Hi Dominic. Thank you for watching and for your question 👍 We would always recommend going back to brick, just in case your walls are already damaged or have an existing issue.
If you have plasterboard that is stuck to the wall using the dot and dab method, it may be best to remove the plasterboards and dabs, and stick the insulated plasterboard directly to the brick. If, however, you have bonding, it will probably be OK to attach the insulated plasterboard to it.
Hope that helps 🙂
@@HYPEBuilding Thank you for the reply. Can I ask one more question, can the insulated plaster board be stuck / fixed to an existing wall that is painted? Thank you again!
@@dominicthorpe1 Hi Dominic. It can be, but we would recommend taking the plaster off first to do a better job. It's about knowing what's behind the plaster. If you go back-to-brick, you can ensure the job is done properly and hopefully eradicate any future issues.
Hi Good video. Would you ever use a vapour barrier behind the insulation?
insulated plasterboard normally has a vapour barrier built in. You could then silicone the joints to be belt and braces
Will you be plastering on top of those boards with standard gypsum? No concerns about breathability? I'm weighing up the method in your video, or going wood fibre with lime plaster.
Hi Ralph. Thanks for watching and for your questions. We did use standard gypsum. There aren't any issues with breathability - the breathability problems tend to arise when you use backing coat or bonding. using insulated plasterboard should give you a higher U-value.
NOOICE!
Thank you, Garviel. Glad you enjoy the content. Stay tuned for more 😀👍
Hey bud. We have an old Victorian property, with lime plaster. Would you recommend putting these boards directly on the plaster? The plaster is is good condition. Or recommend removing the lime plaster altogether and putting the boards directly on the brick? Only looking to do this against the external walls.
Hi Mutassim. Thanks for watching and for your question 🙂👍 We would recommend removing the lime plaster and putting the insulated plasterboards directly on the brick.
Hi there just a quick question I am in the process of installing internal installation boards to a internal wall where there is a radiator what's is the bast way of fixing the radiator back on the wall where there installation board.
Hi Darren. Thanks for your question. You can attach the radiator with screws as you normally would. The insulation has no consequence here.
Thank you for watching our video - we genuinely appreciate it 🙂👍
If you were attaching the thermal plasterboard to a bathroom vaulted ceiling rather than drilling into the brick would you drill into the wood?
Hi Michael. Thanks for your question. In short, yes you would drill into the wood. Thank you for watching our video, it means a lot to us 🙂👍
Appx how many fisxings are you using/what centres do you advise? Thanks :)
Hi Robin. Thanks for for your question. If the brickwork is in good condition, we usually place them approx 400mm apart. If the brickwork is in poor condition, you're restricted to placing them wherever you can get a good fixing.
Hope that helps. Thanks again for watching 😊👍
Great explanation. What would you use if you were mechanically fixing pir board to timber battens? Do you still use insulation fixings? or just a standard screw in this case?
Hi Steve. Thanks for watching and for your great feedback 🙂👍
In relation to your question, if you are fixing PIR board to timber battens, you would use dry wall screws. Hope that helps.
@@HYPEBuilding Yeah makes sense. Something moisture resistant. I just wasn't sure if I needed a wider head like those insulation fixings you use.
Great vid what are the plastic fixings called and where did you get them ?
Hi @@robbarker844 Thanks for your question. They're called plastic insulation fixings. We use these ones from a brand called TIMCO: timco.co.uk/PIF50-plastic-insulation-fixings-white
Hope that helps, mate. Thanks for watching our video - we really appreciate it 😀👍
@@thepaintedsock No buddy, dry wall screws should suffice 🙂👍
I am going go be insulating my solid brick walls which i have taken back to brick. I am looking at using 62.5 insulated plaster boards on the the wall . Do i use foil facing boards or paper facing? What would ensure i dont get any damp issues. I wont be battening out the wall due to room sizes are small. Some people say use foil backed and some say dont?
Hi Rajinder. Thank you for watching our video and for your questions 🙂👍
Just so we understand better, what is it that you're trying to achieve? Are you trying to stop damp or prevent condensation?
@@HYPEBuilding prevent condensation
@@rajindermehat3726 You need to make sure that the boards you use have a vapour control barrier if you're not battening out.
What if there is damp in the wall? Vapour barrier?...
Great video thank you. Do you have a link for the plastic fixings please?
Hi there. Thanks for watching and for your kind words - much appreciated 🙂👌 These are the fixing we use timco.co.uk/PIF50-plastic-insulation-fixings-white
Hope that helps.
Hi. We have builders in next week to install French doors in place of window. Ours is an old house with no cavity. We have found some mould problem in corners so we are looking at using the opportunity whilst builders are in to use thermal plaster boards. Just looking at your video, have you just attached over old plaster board or do i need to take old plaster and render back to brick. Thanks
Hi Reiner. Thank you so much for watching our video and for your question. We would recommend going back to brick. That way, you know you're dealing with good quality plaster and things are less likely to go wrong. Hope that helps and good luck with your project 👍
@@HYPEBuilding Thanks for response. Builders have stripped back to brick as much of the old plaster was damp. No rising damp. Just moisture in walls with airbrick blocked and lack o ventilating, and previous owner sealing over plaster rather than try and fix more permanently. We have gone for batons rather than dot and dab and new plaster looks the dogs nuts. Can already see brickwork drying and that distinctive smell gone. Thanks for posting these videos. Although it doesn't make us DIY ers experts it does help us understand the builder language a bit better.
@@reinerberridge6112 That's great news, Reiner! 👌 We're really pleased to hear that you find our videos useful. It's great feedback like this that makes it all worthwhile - much appreciated. Very best wishes.
My walls have no insulation and are 9inch brickwork. Does this mean the original internal plaster would have been lime based? I think all my house has been plastered using gypsum over the years. Should I strip the walls back to brickwork and do this method with the plasterboard? I seen someone using battens but that seems harder. If I strip the walls and stick this insulated plasterboard to the wall. Will condensation not build up behind it damaging the wall? Dying to sort it🤣
Hi there. Thanks for your questions.
It's a strong possibility that the plaster is lime-based, but there's no way of knowing until you start removing it.
If you strip the walls back, at least you will retain the room size. Using studwork/battens will, of course, encroach on the available space.
In relation to your last question, unfortunately, it's not a one-size-fits-all scenario. It very much depends on what floor you have, what gap you want to leave, and what your ceiling to wall juncture looks like. It's very difficult to say without actually seeing it.
Sorry we couldn't be of more assistance, but we hope that's helped in some way.
Thank you for taking the time to watch our video. We genuinely appreciate it 🙂👌
Won't this create a really cold wall with condensation, damp and mold building up behind that internal insulation?
But the adhesive is only sticking to paint or mould which will eventually over time peel or blow off the original plastered wall so I always rely on mechanical fixings not adhesive
yes agree that method, we also used mechanical fixings.
Do u plaster over the white heads or take them out one the glue has set?
Hi there. You would do what we call 'scrim and skim'. You use scrim tape to cover the plastic heads and then just skim over it. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and for your question 🙂👍
I’ve got a small room to do solid exterior wall I’ve seen a lot of people say u Shudnt do it cus of condensation behind don’t really wanna Batten out as room is allready small what’s ur opinion on this thansk
Hi there. Thanks for watching and for your question. We've done this on plenty of occasions and never had any issues. Just be sure to use insulated plasterboard with a built-in vapour control barrier.
@@HYPEBuilding thankyou
Hi bud, great video. Have seen on another one of your videos, I believe in the same HMO, that you've created a cavity behind 25mm insulated boards. Can I ask why you don't need to do that in this room? Won't fixing directly onto the brickwork potentially allow moisture to bridge and penetrate through the insulation/board? I assumed that was the point in the cavity, to prevent the bridge?
Have a typical old terrace, solid walls, the third bedroom has three external walls and is cold/has condensation issues. Have addressed the ventilation firstly, but when the bedroom door is closed for long periods of time, not allowing any airflow into the room, a little condensation still forms on the furthest external wall. I'm thinking of replacing the current board with insulated as the room is freezing anyway and I'm hoping this would help to stop the warm air hitting the cold surface of the walls and condensing. What do you think, worth a shot?
Hi Michael. Thanks for watching and for your kind words. We have a feeling the property you're referring to where we left a cavity is our listed building to HMO conversion in Burslem. We left a cavity in this particular property because the walls weren't plumb - largely due to the age of the building. We used a system to correct this problem, which in turn left a cavity.
We don't need to do it on this property because the walls are fine.
Fixing directly onto the brickwork won't cause a bridge in this case because we use insulated plasterboard that has a built-in vapour barrier.
If you replace the current board with insulated plasterboard, we see no reason why this wouldn't work - so it's definitely worth a shot.
Hope that helps, mate. Best of luck with your project 🙂👍
I'm fitting PIR to block walls with panel adhesive but with OSB over the top instead of plasterboard. Can I still use these white panel fixings, and if so do they fix the PIR to the wall or fix the the OSB and PIR in one??
OSB will be too much weight, use the mechanical fixings or the long screws will do the job.
Consult the documents that the makers of the PIR board have. They will specify type used for their product.
@@jablot5054 very true :)
Hi i have a 1900's solid stone wall how could i fit insulated plasterboard to the inside but allowing the outside to still breathe as it has lime mortar and render
Hi Lisa. Thank you for watching and for your question. Much appreciated. If we understand right, you're trying to create an air gap. If that's the case, there are two methods we would suggest:
Firstly, you can use a wall liner system like the one in this video ua-cam.com/video/utvH6Rsnmz8/v-deo.html …This type of system is usually used to leave a gap for services (e.g. electrics or a soil pipe) but can also be used to create a plumb wall if the external wall isn't perfect. This type of wall liner system would create a void between your outer wall and inner wall so that air can circulate.
Secondly, you could create a studded wall and insulate it.
Hope that helps, Lisa. Thanks again for watching our video 🙂👍
Hi check tho that your outside wall has not been painted with oil based paint that was common back then. If it has : I doubt your wall is breathing.
Is your Illbrook gear just low expansion foam? If so, how do you stop it kicking your boards out?
Hi Robin. Thank you for watching our video an for your questions. Yes, you could say that it's low expansion foam. The plastic pegs hold everything in place and prevent the boards from kicking out - as long as the brickwork is decent.
Hope that helps, mate 😊👍
What make are the fixings mate ? Thanks
Hi Andrew. Thanks for your question. We use a brand called TIMCO. These are the ones (depending on what size you're after): timco.co.uk/PIF50-plastic-insulation-fixings-white
Hope that helps, mate. Thanks for watching our video - we really appreciate it 😀👍
If you use the foam then immediately try and use the fixings you will never get a straight wall and the fixings will just pull into the cotour of the wall you fixing to. Dot and dab is far superior but need to prime the p/d prior to fixing
was this property rendered on the outside? or was it brick.
Hi there. Thanks for watching and for your question. The property is rendered on the outside.
Won't you get condensation behind the insulation?
Hi Lee. Thanks for watching our video and for your question 🙂👍 There won't be any condensation behind the insulation because the boards we use have a built-in vapour control barrier.
To minimise loss of room space, i planning on hacking off the existing plaster to the brick work and then apply the insulated plasterboard. Is that doable?
Wouldn’t be worth your time
@@tomwatson9147 many thanks
Hi there. Thanks for watching and for your question 🙂👍 It is doable. You would need to use the correct insulated plasterboard - the type that has a vapour control barrier/membrane built into the board.
@@HYPEBuilding Thank you
@@sudgur990 You're most welcome 👍
Being a bit skint at the moment I’ve often wondered if you could stick PIR insulation using foam and then stick plasterboard using foam to the plasterboard.
Hi Chris. Thanks for watching and for your question. This would be slightly counterproductive as you'd be buying the necessary elements separately, whereas the insulated plasterboard is a ready-made solution and, therefore, more cost-effective.
@@HYPEBuilding fair point mate.
What is the plastic plug product you used?
Hi Dan. Thank you for your question. We use a brand called TIMCO. These are the ones (depending on what size you're after): timco.co.uk/PIF50-plastic-insulation-fixings-white
Hope that helps, buddy. Thanks for watching our video - we genuinely appreciate it 😀👍
@@HYPEBuilding Thanks that's great! Can they be skimmed over once it's all in place?
Hi @@Dan0The Yes, you would skim over once you've secured the boards in place properly 🙂👍
How do you do the reveals?
Use a thinner 37.5 insulated plaster board.
How come it's not foil backed plaster board ?
What size of thickness of insulated plasterboard do you need to use to help get a C ?
Hi John. Thanks for your question. It's not foil-backed plaster board because the insulation itself is foil-backed.
In relation to achieving an EPC rating of C, obviously all properties are different and, therefore, so is the work required in order to thermally upgrade them sufficiently. Your EPC should give advice on what you need to do to achieve a C rating.
For a situation similar to this one, you can use 50mm of insulation plus a 12.5mm plasterboard (a total of 62.5mm). The caveat with this, however, is that the U-Value of the insulation differs between manufacturers - so best to check before you buy.
Hope that helps, John. And thanks again for watching our video - much appreciated 🙂👍
@@HYPEBuilding thanks for the great reply. 🙂
@@johnmacdonald4889 You're most welcome 👍
@@johnmacdonald4889 Our pleasure, John 👍
And anything foil-backed will only have an effect if there is an air gap (which isn’t necessary with this method of affixing the boards). If the foil is sandwiched with other similar materials it won’t have its reflective properties.
Can you plaster over the fixings?
Hi Adrian. Thanks for watching and for your question 👍
You can indeed. We do what is commonly referred to as scrim and skim. So we use scrim tape to secure joints between plasterboard sheets and then skim over them with plaster to create a nice smooth finish ready for painting.
Hope that helps 😊
@@HYPEBuilding thnx
@@adrianadios5041 You're most welcome 👍
Would these work the same
Hi Tim. Thanks for watching our video. Sorry, what is it that you're referring to?
How come you don’t batten the wall and screw the insulated boards onto them?
Hi there. Really good question 👌 And you certainly can do it that way, like you say.
The only reason we haven't is because this particular property is a HMO - and using that method would significantly decrease floor space.
Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and for your question 🙂👍
The only reason to include an air gap would be if you need it for ventilating moisture away. For example, if it was an exposed location with lots of driving rain that could send it through to the inner face of the bricks. But then you need to make sure the gap does in fact have some airflow; with still air the moisture will remain.
Also, even without penetrating damp, you have the risk that moist air from inside the building will get behind there and cause condensation/mould.
By sticking the boards directly to the wall with no air gap, and foaming around the edges, you are ensuring that virtually no moisture will be able to gather there.
Should use roof batterns , this will move
Hi Daz. Thanks for watching and for your comment. We're very confident that this won't move. We use panel adhesive not expanding foam, which goes rigid. We've done dozens of properties using this method and never had any callbacks.
Shouldn’t solid walls breathe?
Oh dear , so many errors and the comment about thermally broken fixings is incorrect. The part L does not stop you using them internally, in fact they are normally used for securing wood fibre internally. As for sticking PIR onto a solid wall ! What about the formation of moisture due to moisture meeting the insulation from the outside which will condense and run down the gap in the wall to provide ideal conditions for wet or dry rot ! What is frightening is that people will follow this advice .
Why would moisture be getting in from the outside?
The wall on the outside of the insulation is vapour porous so when the air , which contains water vapour meets insulation it will condense . If the wall on the outside was sealed the problem would not exist but bricks are vapour porous .
@@user-rh5ct1ft5uno. You misunderstand how this works. Water vapour will condense when it hits a surface of a temperature below the dew point which depends on the moisture level. So water vapour migrating from warm surfaces that are above the dew point to surfaces colder and below the dew point is when trouble can start. This usually is as vapour permeates from inside and moves outwards, as the temperature drops through the building envelope (in this case walls) as you move outwards . Consequently you need vapour barriers on the warm side of your wall. This is part of the building regulations. The insulated boards have this within them. If they didn’t your problem would be when the vapour reached the cold surface ie in this case potentially the brick wall, if cold enough (eg in the winter when it’s temp can be below the dew point)
Vapour coming inwards from outside is fine as it meets progressively warmer elements so it won’t condense. It is important liquid water doesn’t migrate through capillary action from outside to inside but that’s a different mechanism, and has nothing to do with dew points. A cavity wall has a cavity and detail to ensure liquid water doesn’t cross it.
Thermal bridges add a layer of subtlety as their temperature can be below the dew point as they conduct heat efficiently through themselves from side to outside - and hence liquid water can condense on them. Specialist Mechanical fixings eg out of plastic or helical stainless steel (which has lower conductivity than non stainless steel) are all to ensure there is a temperature gradient down the length of the fixing - with the bit that’s inside the vapour barrier above the dew point.
I am writing about solid walls as in pre 1919 construction with no cavity. I am lost how moisture is going to travel outwards, as per your response if the plasterboard has a layer of PIR although the plasterboard itself is vapour permeable and assuming it has not been coated with Gypsum plaster or vinyl paint ( both impermeable) how does it travel through the PIR. But that's not the point I was making . In a pre 1919 house with solid walls ( approximately 1/3 of the housing stock in the UK ) water vapour will travel in from the outside. Its when it meets the insulation which will be colder and then condensation occurs. That is why PIR is a bad idea as it stops the water vapour continuing inwards. Air tightness films are designed to stop air leakage not water vapour I am assured by my thermal engineers .
English is not my mother language and because of the music it is hard for me to hear you accurate, it's nice to hear you explaining things so please cut out the unneccecery music
Dot n dab should really be banned. It causes so may problems with fire rating, sound proofing and joint cracking. Adhesive spray and mechanical fixing like in this video is the way to go.
I thought internal board fixings had to be fire rated to stop the boards falling off the wall in event of a fire? Plastic isn't going to do that.
Correct. Follow,local building regs.
This system will trap moisture in the brick wall as the foam is not vapor permeable. Also by isolating the brick and mortar, you are creating a cold wall full of water that will freeze and thaw with the seasons. That will over a long period of time deteriorate your brick and turn your mortar into sand. The adhesive will also create pockets between the brick and foam which will condensate and result in black mold. Anyone looking to do this kind of project should look into vapor permeable plasterboard, lime plaster, wood fiber board, limecrete, or other vapor permeable system. Its not efficient if the system you install causes your house to crumble.
Looks like a risk of interstitial condensation.
Mechanical fixing is for fire regulations.
If your doing external insulation why are you using insulated plasterboard?
Hi there. Sorry, we're not quite sure what you mean. The video shows internal insulation. External insulation would be render or a form of external cladding.
@@HYPEBuilding sorry thought you mentioned in video that property is also having external insulation.
@@gore5542401 No, buddy. We can see why you thought that, though, as John does say that the investor will be putting "insulation on all the external walls". What he meant was all the external walls will be having internal insulation. Not confusing at all 🤣🤣 Our bad, mate, not yours.
Thanks again for watching 👍
Terrible fittings UNLESS you predrill the board deep enough for hide the lip as being malable plastic they can curl making it hard to over plaster
Little teeth = barbs
This arrangement is not suitable for solid brick walls, it creates perfect conditionals for interstitial condensation. Its likely this will need to be removed in a couple of years.