Wonderfully detailed, easy to see and understand demonstration. I figured it would be easy and after watching your video, I have no questions or doubts. Thank you!
i always take the solenoids out and clean them. sometimes the screens get clogged and messes with the operation of the tranny and or destroy them. it will get you many many miles of smooth shifting and no shutters. Good Video
I started and ran the family spare vehicle the other day which is a Honda element. After I shut it off I noticed transmission fluid spilling on the ground from the splash pan. I hope it's just one of those filter hoses or maybe a rotted filter hose clamp. Didn't know the element had a transmission filter. Now I now. Good video, thanks.
Fair point. I did it because I did not know if I would have to stop and use the vehicle at any point in the day to go across town etc. so I wanted it to have it be 100% ready at any drain interval if I had to stop the project, and resume later. Made sure to take the washers with other scrap metal to the recycle center when I took the fluid.
Thanks! Read a lot about it on the owners forums and from the factory service manual. Made a video for others and myself in a few years when I do it again. Re: 279k. NICE!
Y’all just getting them broken in! I have 351,000 on my ‘04 Original trans and motor- Just did front lower arms, rear struts. New plugs and oil changes, they’ll run forever!
My element is going on 260.000 miles I’m The 2nd owner , and I’ve never changed transmission oil still looks good . I’m going to change in-line filter and add new Honda fluid, not going to flush what are your thoughts?
Thanks! I always try and do a video when I do a job on my vehicles so I can share it as well as look back when I re-do it and forget the steps or how if I do the same job again.
Fair point of apprehension. I got the idea from the Honda parts counter guy I work with at my local dealer when I got the fluid. The main point is to NOT shift AT ALL as that could cause damage. Also, only for ~30 seconds or less just to get that last ~0.25-0.5 its. out of the system. But again DO NOT SHIFT. You could do the process without that but I wanted to get the most fluid I could out since I knew 1/3rd of the fluid in my Element was not Honda ATF from the previous owner that had a drain and fill done at a quick lube place before I bought it.
I've never done this before, however I was curious about the clamps. Is it normally okay to use the clamps that are previously on there? Don't clamps get worn? Obviously it worked fine here, but I was told before to always use new ones. Great video regardless!
So I actually did order new clips when I did this. However; I opted to use the existing ones and they had larger tabs on them making them easier to open and close. They were also still plenty strong.
Glad it was helpful! I was watching other videos and knew one with better lighting had to be done as I was frustrated watching others and trying to compare them with the Honda Factory Service manual.
Not an arrow that I recall. However, the way that the bracket holding it in place works there was only one place that it would fit. I just wound up reinstalling it the same way that the original one came out. But, I don't think you could install it backwards. It didn't seem possible based off of how the bracket was shaped. Don't know if it's hard to tell that in the video.
Great video Bryce. I got my hands on a 2008 with 100k miles from a salvage yard for $4500. Im getting shuddering at 25-30 mph and sometimes 40mph. I don’t know if the fluid has ever been changed. My question is if I let this pester what will happen to the trans or other parts involved? Thank you for your time
Oh I have no idea. Mine was not doing that, but have seen on the Element forums people saying that the new fluid does help with that. I would ask around on www.elementownersclub.com if I was you.
I have a 09 CRV (140k when problem started) with that same issue at those same speeds. I actually ignored it for like 2 years after reading on line and also being told by shop I would need new torque converter, trans or booth. I figured if I need a new one I'll drive drive till it no longer works. Yeah, I know...I would say it only got marginally worse over time. While getting another repair done by a buddy mechanic of mine he suggested drain and couple of flushes and a bottle of trans doctor (don't quote me on name). I got that done and have had a shudder since. 180k now.
I just bought a 2003 honda element and want to do this to it. I do not know the service history of the vehicle. Would be a good idea to go ahead and do it? or would cause it to start slipping if it hasn't been serviced. Vehicle has 158,000 miles. Thanks
So I have seen different opinions on that. My Element had 162k miles on it at the change and the fluid was only drained and filled (so only ~3.3 qts replaced) at ~105-110k miles as far as I was aware. I took the stance of new fluid is better than old fluid and swapped it all out with this drain and fill technique not a power flusher that could cause damage or dislodge large chunks of clutch material build up if they existed. Some other people talking online about the thought process I followed: www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/comments/jm5eo8/changed_my_transmission_fluid_yesterday_figured/gatlbut?context=3
@@brycecarlson Thanks! That's what has made it difficult to decide. The fluid looks dark but still has a tint of red. I'll probable go ahead and do the drain and fill.
@@ev2363 Yeah, I mean new fluid is always better and if it not slipping and drives good it should be safe (I accept no liability. Ha.). I will say my Element drove and shifted GREAT after this. However; also remember if you disconnect the battery for any reason for 30+ min. it will relearn shift points. I also swapped that after I was done. I was terrified that I ruined the transmission but then realized it just needed to relearn shift behavior as I drive with vigor. Runs great now ~3k miles since!
Thanks for this. How long did you have the car sit between each drain after the couple miles of driving? or were drains #2 and 3 hot and done as soon as you got back? They didn't look to be. Curious because i know aluminum is a great heat exchanger so i am worried about removing the bolt while hot and not having it thread back correctly.
I did it within ~3-4 minutes of getting back home after doing a slow loop around the large block of my neighbor hood. I also always started the bolt by hand as not to cross thread etc. and went slowly to ensure I got the threads right.
@@brycecarlson perfect info! I ended up waiting an hour after each, but got it all done. Not as clean as yours but at 121k for the 1st change not bad. Got rid of the 2k rpm shimmy. Thank you for the video.
I was able to do it without any lift. I did park facing down to the end of my driveway and then drove on to ramps for the front (to make the vehicle level (I then verified that with a level and 4ft board)) that gave me ~6.5 inches due to the pitch of the driveway.
It is not, but I did it since that would replace the entire system capacity (drain ins ~3qts. but the system holds ~6-7qts.) since I had no previous records of fluid changes when I got the Element. Many online say that a soft drain and fill 3x is safer than a power flush that a dealer may do to replace the entire system capacity.
I need help with my 2006 Honda elements automatic transmission, First symptom when it started was when I entered the highway accelerating normal and when it after 2nd gear was about to shift up it wouldn’t go into 3rd gear for over 10 seconds no matter how much I was gasing it and then I shifted it to neutral back to drive and went back to normal. Now it happened again this time leaving my neighborhood at low speeds and now 2nd and 3rd gear wouldn’t go into gear and just rev up. Now finally I was on the highway and when traffic started I slowed down and now it wouldn’t go into 1st gear and had to pull over and after 15minutes I tried again and would drive but it was barely going into gear and not shifting properly anymore, at the end when I last parked it would barely reverse now as well. Seems like it’s slipping every gear now especially after it warms up. I haven’t tried flushing the fluid yet or anything just have it parked so that I don’t mess it up fixing it wrong. If anybody can narrow down what’s going on I will fix it next week with my paycheck just don’t want to replace my transmission because it has always been good to me and still feels like it can be saved. Please and thank you for taking the time to read my problem
Yeah all of my Honda supplies and parts were less than that. I will say my local dealer parts department is very nice and price competitive. But it did take me about 4 hours start to finish but worth it.
This is like going to the dentist for a crown work !!!! I just remove. The whole transmission put it up side down full drainage refill it and mount it back. !!!!
to be honest I did not know it had a filter. What does honda charge for this $$ filter? Do we really need to replace all those washers? I think one would do yes?
If I recall the filter was ~$25-35 for the part. No idea what the dealer would charge for them to change it. Re: Washer. That depends; I did it due to the age and millage of this Pilot and the fact we live in (and the first owner of it also lives here) in the upper midwest where we get a lot of hot and cold so they were heat cycled more.
Fair point. I did it because I did not know if I would have to stop and use the vehicle at any point in the day to go across town etc. so I wanted it to have it be 100% ready at any drain interval if I had to stop the project, and resume later. Made sure to take the washers with other scrap metal to the recycle center when I took the fluid.
absolutely no reason to change the filter unless you change the trans. It's only to catch debris created when a trans fails.....factory service manual.
Never get parts from the dealers. They're a total rip off, scam and basically far too expensive and grossly overpriced. I got my rear struts for mom's 2016 Subaru legacy from 1A- Auto with free shipping and lifetime guarantee!!! Much less expensive than from Subaru and even a little bit less than from Amazon. Drive safe everyone 💪🙏
For some stuff; yes. For things like these fluids or the filter it was the same or cheaper than online (since hazardous waste shipping charges sometimes apply to fluids).
@brycecarlson yep, certainly possible!! I've learned to check everywhere, going back and forth from shop to online to dealers. Nothing is 💯 % all the time. Btw I've purchased the 2003 Honda Element EX awd brand new back in 2003. It's a great vehicle. 194,000 miles now and still going strong. Needed a new tyranny at 175,000 though. I also learn from Scotty Kilmer and Chris Fix UA-cam videos. Without the few honest, good people around we'd really be in trouble. Enjoy!! God Bless 🙌 🙏🏻
@8:50 NEVER start your vehicle after draining the ATF!!! This could burn up the pump or the plastic washers or the shims inside the transmission. It’s funny that he hasn’t created any new videos with the Element in the last year and now he has a Honda Pilot... think about it.
I just drove the Element today Oatmeal. 180k on the clock now. IF you chose to do that do not shift out of park and I do it for a VERY short amount of time. It will just run the pump in the trans. that said it is by all means not a required step.
Also, I got the idea from this thread post: www.elementownersclub.com/threads/auto-trans-fluid-filter-replacement-diy-instructions.51749/post-695322 Original poster also addressed it later about NOT shifting at that point in time: www.elementownersclub.com/threads/auto-trans-fluid-filter-replacement-diy-instructions.51749/post-802199 Again IF you do it. You do not need to do it for long. OP and Others also followed that with no issue on posts years ago and they have posted since: www.elementownersclub.com/threads/auto-trans-fluid-filter-replacement-diy-instructions.51749/post-1337809
Pleasssse alert / tag me in YOUR "change n flush transmission" video. Show us ALL "the right way". RULE ONE in automotive advice: ALWAYS take your advice from a Breakfast Cereal.
Thanks for posting this detailed synopsis. That being said, what piss poor engineering by Honda. You have to drain the system 3 times in order to do a proper drain of the transmission? So, you're basically wasting 6 quarts and ~$60 of tranny fluid, not including the last 3 quarts you have to put in for final fill? Honda engineering is usually above par but this is stupid. JMHO.
Yeah; sadly, 3x is really the only way to get most of the fluid out without doing it more than 1 time as some fluid stays in the torque converter. But a bit of extra fluid used is better than a broken wasted transmission.
Ok. Please don't start it with no fluid. Especially on an automatic. U can destroy a lot. Torque converters are too expensive. Rebuilding tranny's are expensive. I think 3x is nuts 😂 knowing that's it's not good to do a flush. Especially on a high mileage. If I were to ever do a flush. I suggest driving it a bit with the new in there. Then do it. Repeat that 3xs. Np on ever thinks to do these things. If u change it regularly u really shouldn't need to flush it. Like home boy says in one of the comments. Take the solenoids out and clean them if necessary. Tranny's don't actually really get destroyed on Hondas very often. They are good for a max of like 400+ hp. 😂. Atleast if u do it. Your not suppose to drain the system completely. Don't pump it out 😂. Please don't run it while no tranny fluid. That's dangerous. I don't car who ya are and and have done it for whom ever 😂. I didn't waste my schooling 😂
Video has been edited to cut that part out. Was just following a guide I found on the forums when I made this. Video should have the edits saved in the next 24 hours with the engine on in park removed on the first two fluid drains.
@@brycecarlson I get it. I'm old school. Not too old. But ya know in the time that we all thought it was a good idea. Later find out it's really not. Sure we've been doing it this whole time. But we probably could've preserved some parts 😂. It's like changing your fish's water. U don't change the whole thing. U take the majority. Same deal. I remember when they use to offer the fluid flush every where. Now we don't have that 😂. Not sure the exact reason. But pretty that would be a definite cause
@@brycecarlson no. I mean. I didn't know where the damn stick was. I always here this sealed engine crap and 99% of the time it's not what they claim. They just don't want u to mess with it bc it does take a special atf. People just put whatever they want in whatever hole 😂. I knew mine had one. Just didn't know where 😂 and I always change my diff when I do my oil. I love my crv. Plus no one has changed mine and it has 200k 😂
You might be able to order it online from a vendor like www.hondapartsnow.com or this is similar www.autozone.com/motor-oil-and-transmission-fluid/transmission-fluid/p/idemitsu-type-h-plus-automatic-transmission-fluid-1-quart/81168_0_0
Wonderfully detailed, easy to see and understand demonstration. I figured it would be easy and after watching your video, I have no questions or doubts. Thank you!
You're very welcome!
i always take the solenoids out and clean them. sometimes the screens get clogged and messes with the operation of the tranny and or destroy them. it will get you many many miles of smooth shifting and no shutters. Good Video
Very cool! Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
I started and ran the family spare vehicle the other day which is a Honda element. After I shut it off I noticed transmission fluid spilling on the ground from the splash pan. I hope it's just one of those filter hoses or maybe a rotted filter hose clamp. Didn't know the element had a transmission filter. Now I now. Good video, thanks.
Don't think I would have worried about crush washer or torque until last drain.
Fair point. I did it because I did not know if I would have to stop and use the vehicle at any point in the day to go across town etc. so I wanted it to have it be 100% ready at any drain interval if I had to stop the project, and resume later. Made sure to take the washers with other scrap metal to the recycle center when I took the fluid.
Why waste all those crush washers ,and just not change on the last change?
I found the filter to be a massive hassle compared to my Honda Fit. Nice video.
@@benschmolze1266 yeah the location is not ideal. Glad the video helped!
So very detailed. I'm going to do this to mine. My 2005 has 279,000 miles on it
Thanks! Read a lot about it on the owners forums and from the factory service manual. Made a video for others and myself in a few years when I do it again.
Re: 279k. NICE!
That great. I have a 2007 going on 190,000. I'd like to get another 120,000 miles out if it. Great vehicle!
Y’all just getting them broken in!
I have 351,000 on my ‘04
Original trans and motor-
Just did front lower arms, rear struts.
New plugs and oil changes, they’ll run forever!
@@petethegrip4556 what an absolute legend my man. im only at 240k hoping mine will get to 350k miles on original trans and motor
My element is going on 260.000 miles I’m The 2nd owner , and I’ve never changed transmission oil still looks good . I’m going to change in-line filter and add new Honda fluid, not going to flush what are your thoughts?
Excellent Video!
Very detailed and self explanatory.
I’d say better than Professionals!
Thank You!
Made me confident of doing it myself.
awesome
Thanks so much!
usefull video thanks. Sucked for me cause my clips were fully reversed upwards it was such a pain to remove the filter
Oooof yeah that would make it harder. But glad the video helped!
This actually really helped. I’m not putting that bracket back on though lol. Not anytime soon at least
Thanks! I always try and do a video when I do a job on my vehicles so I can share it as well as look back when I re-do it and forget the steps or how if I do the same job again.
Great Watch! Very True Method! Crank with no fluid is ok ? not sure if i feel ok with that!
Fair point of apprehension. I got the idea from the Honda parts counter guy I work with at my local dealer when I got the fluid. The main point is to NOT shift AT ALL as that could cause damage. Also, only for ~30 seconds or less just to get that last ~0.25-0.5 its. out of the system. But again DO NOT SHIFT. You could do the process without that but I wanted to get the most fluid I could out since I knew 1/3rd of the fluid in my Element was not Honda ATF from the previous owner that had a drain and fill done at a quick lube place before I bought it.
Starting the vehicle with system draind can actually do damage to the pump and the torque converter... you should never run them dry like that.
I've never done this before, however I was curious about the clamps. Is it normally okay to use the clamps that are previously on there? Don't clamps get worn? Obviously it worked fine here, but I was told before to always use new ones. Great video regardless!
So I actually did order new clips when I did this. However; I opted to use the existing ones and they had larger tabs on them making them easier to open and close. They were also still plenty strong.
Thank you. Your video was very detailed and helpful!!
Glad it was helpful!
I was watching other videos and knew one with better lighting had to be done as I was frustrated watching others and trying to compare them with the Honda Factory Service manual.
Cambiar el filtro de transición
Wonder if ATF filter directional is there any arrow marked on a body of filter?
Not an arrow that I recall. However, the way that the bracket holding it in place works there was only one place that it would fit. I just wound up reinstalling it the same way that the original one came out. But, I don't think you could install it backwards. It didn't seem possible based off of how the bracket was shaped. Don't know if it's hard to tell that in the video.
Great video Bryce. I got my hands on a 2008 with 100k miles from a salvage yard for $4500. Im getting shuddering at 25-30 mph and sometimes 40mph. I don’t know if the fluid has ever been changed. My question is if I let this pester what will happen to the trans or other parts involved? Thank you for your time
Oh I have no idea. Mine was not doing that, but have seen on the Element forums people saying that the new fluid does help with that. I would ask around on www.elementownersclub.com if I was you.
Did you ever figure out what the shuddering was?
@@savinorojas6836 If it is AWD I bet it would need the diff fluid changed
$4500 was too much specially if it’s from a scrap yard.
I have a 09 CRV (140k when problem started) with that same issue at those same speeds. I actually ignored it for like 2 years after reading on line and also being told by shop I would need new torque converter, trans or booth. I figured if I need a new one I'll drive drive till it no longer works. Yeah, I know...I would say it only got marginally worse over time. While getting another repair done by a buddy mechanic of mine he suggested drain and couple of flushes and a bottle of trans doctor (don't quote me on name). I got that done and have had a shudder since. 180k now.
Very good work
Thank you so much!
I just bought a 2003 honda element and want to do this to it. I do not know the service history of the vehicle. Would be a good idea to go ahead and do it? or would cause it to start slipping if it hasn't been serviced. Vehicle has 158,000 miles. Thanks
So I have seen different opinions on that. My Element had 162k miles on it at the change and the fluid was only drained and filled (so only ~3.3 qts replaced) at ~105-110k miles as far as I was aware. I took the stance of new fluid is better than old fluid and swapped it all out with this drain and fill technique not a power flusher that could cause damage or dislodge large chunks of clutch material build up if they existed.
Some other people talking online about the thought process I followed:
www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/comments/jm5eo8/changed_my_transmission_fluid_yesterday_figured/gatlbut?context=3
@@brycecarlson Thanks! That's what has made it difficult to decide. The fluid looks dark but still has a tint of red. I'll probable go ahead and do the drain and fill.
@@ev2363 Yeah, I mean new fluid is always better and if it not slipping and drives good it should be safe (I accept no liability. Ha.). I will say my Element drove and shifted GREAT after this. However; also remember if you disconnect the battery for any reason for 30+ min. it will relearn shift points. I also swapped that after I was done. I was terrified that I ruined the transmission but then realized it just needed to relearn shift behavior as I drive with vigor. Runs great now ~3k miles since!
@@ev2363 hi. I have thesame case as you. Mine has 140k miles. No history of changing atf. May I know do you replace yours?.what happen after that?
Thanks for this. How long did you have the car sit between each drain after the couple miles of driving? or were drains #2 and 3 hot and done as soon as you got back? They didn't look to be. Curious because i know aluminum is a great heat exchanger so i am worried about removing the bolt while hot and not having it thread back correctly.
I did it within ~3-4 minutes of getting back home after doing a slow loop around the large block of my neighbor hood. I also always started the bolt by hand as not to cross thread etc. and went slowly to ensure I got the threads right.
@@brycecarlson perfect info! I ended up waiting an hour after each, but got it all done. Not as clean as yours but at 121k for the 1st change not bad. Got rid of the 2k rpm shimmy. Thank you for the video.
@@lanpartyceo no problem! Happy to share!
"removing the bolt while hot and not having it thread back correctly" - 100% certain that's not something to be concerned about
I need a 6 pack for motivation. Looks like a PITA
nahhhh. You got it. A couple deep breaths ... just yourself. 🙂
Yeah; the only really hard part is the 10mm for the filter bracket, but with a 1/4" drive like I used it is not that bad.
I have jack stands to use when changing the filter. Were you able to do the fluid change without a lift? Is there enough space underneath the Element?
I was able to do it without any lift. I did park facing down to the end of my driveway and then drove on to ramps for the front (to make the vehicle level (I then verified that with a level and 4ft board)) that gave me ~6.5 inches due to the pitch of the driveway.
Very detailed video, is it necessary to do it 3x times?
It is not, but I did it since that would replace the entire system capacity (drain ins ~3qts. but the system holds ~6-7qts.) since I had no previous records of fluid changes when I got the Element. Many online say that a soft drain and fill 3x is safer than a power flush that a dealer may do to replace the entire system capacity.
I need help with my 2006 Honda elements automatic transmission,
First symptom when it started was when I entered the highway accelerating normal and when it after 2nd gear was about to shift up it wouldn’t go into 3rd gear for over 10 seconds no matter how much I was gasing it and then I shifted it to neutral back to drive and went back to normal. Now it happened again this time leaving my neighborhood at low speeds and now 2nd and 3rd gear wouldn’t go into gear and just rev up. Now finally I was on the highway and when traffic started I slowed down and now it wouldn’t go into 1st gear and had to pull over and after 15minutes I tried again and would drive but it was barely going into gear and not shifting properly anymore, at the end when I last parked it would barely reverse now as well. Seems like it’s slipping every gear now especially after it warms up. I haven’t tried flushing the fluid yet or anything just have it parked so that I don’t mess it up fixing it wrong. If anybody can narrow down what’s going on I will fix it next week with my paycheck just don’t want to replace my transmission because it has always been good to me and still feels like it can be saved. Please and thank you for taking the time to read my problem
Shift solenoid
This is a dumb question. But where on your car do put your spirit level to check level?
Not dumb, but on mine I used the frame rails right under the door latch for the front door and access panel as that is a flat area.
@@brycecarlson thanks Bryce! Seems obvious now that you've said that 😂
Thank you for your detailed video.
Glad it was helpful!
Where does the oil level need to be on the dip stick? I see xxx on the tip of the dip stick so on the last x?
At the top of the XXXXX area when at full operating temp, after it is shut down for 60-90 seconds on a flat surface.
What a great video! It hurts me that the dealer charged $200 for a drain and fill. 😠
Yeah all of my Honda supplies and parts were less than that. I will say my local dealer parts department is very nice and price competitive.
But it did take me about 4 hours start to finish but worth it.
Yes, those dealer supplied crush washers are expensive ;)
And I bet that was just for ONE drain and fill.
Didny tell what dide the fullyer is installed 😅
I think most dealerships are going to lie about filling it 3x.
Many use a pressurized system that forces the fluid out for speed of service. blog.amsoil.com/transmission-pan-drop-vs-flush-which-is-better/
How long does it take to drain all the fluid out of the transmission
~25 minutes for it slow to a drip.
Great job !!
Thank you!
Great video thank you
You are welcome!
This is like going to the dentist for a crown work !!!! I just remove. The whole transmission put it up side down full drainage refill it and mount it back. !!!!
to be honest I did not know it had a filter. What does honda charge for this $$ filter? Do we really need to replace all those washers? I think one would do yes?
If I recall the filter was ~$25-35 for the part. No idea what the dealer would charge for them to change it. Re: Washer. That depends; I did it due to the age and millage of this Pilot and the fact we live in (and the first owner of it also lives here) in the upper midwest where we get a lot of hot and cold so they were heat cycled more.
It was 65 dollars for my mechanic to change it. Probably easier had I done it myself but I had a coupon
get rid of those pain in the butt retaining clips and install the ones that screw on...
so much easier to replace in the future..
You do not need to replace crimp ring and torque drain plug every time, just the last time.
Fair point. I did it because I did not know if I would have to stop and use the vehicle at any point in the day to go across town etc. so I wanted it to have it be 100% ready at any drain interval if I had to stop the project, and resume later. Made sure to take the washers with other scrap metal to the recycle center when I took the fluid.
What kindof filter is this?
Is it a paper type or what?
I think it is a composite element on the inside. I should have cut the old one open, but did not.
Very understandable video . Even my moron neighbor can do this !
Thanks; glad it helps!
absolutely no reason to change the filter unless you change the trans. It's only to catch debris created when a trans fails.....factory service manual.
I replaced it because I did not know the full service history of just the transmission
You need to slow down a little bit with you yanking on that shifter like that you're going to strip it out
Great. !
Glad it was helpful
Mines goin to the shop, fluid is too costly to waste, and they won’t spend the day like would.
Never get parts from the dealers. They're a total rip off, scam and basically far too expensive and grossly overpriced. I got my rear struts for mom's 2016 Subaru legacy from 1A- Auto with free shipping and lifetime guarantee!!! Much less expensive than from Subaru and even a little bit less than from Amazon. Drive safe everyone 💪🙏
For some stuff; yes. For things like these fluids or the filter it was the same or cheaper than online (since hazardous waste shipping charges sometimes apply to fluids).
@brycecarlson yep, certainly possible!! I've learned to check everywhere, going back and forth from shop to online to dealers. Nothing is 💯 % all the time. Btw I've purchased the 2003 Honda Element EX awd brand new back in 2003. It's a great vehicle. 194,000 miles now and still going strong. Needed a new tyranny at 175,000 though. I also learn from Scotty Kilmer and Chris Fix UA-cam videos. Without the few honest, good people around we'd really be in trouble. Enjoy!! God Bless 🙌 🙏🏻
@8:50 NEVER start your vehicle after draining the ATF!!! This could burn up the pump or the plastic washers or the shims inside the transmission. It’s funny that he hasn’t created any new videos with the Element in the last year and now he has a Honda Pilot... think about it.
I just drove the Element today Oatmeal. 180k on the clock now. IF you chose to do that do not shift out of park and I do it for a VERY short amount of time. It will just run the pump in the trans. that said it is by all means not a required step.
Also, I got the idea from this thread post:
www.elementownersclub.com/threads/auto-trans-fluid-filter-replacement-diy-instructions.51749/post-695322
Original poster also addressed it later about NOT shifting at that point in time:
www.elementownersclub.com/threads/auto-trans-fluid-filter-replacement-diy-instructions.51749/post-802199
Again IF you do it. You do not need to do it for long.
OP and Others also followed that with no issue on posts years ago and they have posted since:
www.elementownersclub.com/threads/auto-trans-fluid-filter-replacement-diy-instructions.51749/post-1337809
Pleasssse alert / tag me in YOUR "change n flush transmission" video. Show us ALL "the right way".
RULE ONE in automotive advice: ALWAYS take your advice from a Breakfast Cereal.
Wipe the magnet on the bolt! It has metal particles in it!
I did. Look at time code 3:49 in the video. I did it each time with a new crush washer.
Thanks for posting this detailed synopsis. That being said, what piss poor engineering by Honda. You have to drain the system 3 times in order to do a proper drain of the transmission? So, you're basically wasting 6 quarts and ~$60 of tranny fluid, not including the last 3 quarts you have to put in for final fill? Honda engineering is usually above par but this is stupid. JMHO.
What a pain and waste of fluid. !!!! Three times. ??? Dealers don’t do this. !!! A better design is needed. !!!!
Yeah; sadly, 3x is really the only way to get most of the fluid out without doing it more than 1 time as some fluid stays in the torque converter. But a bit of extra fluid used is better than a broken wasted transmission.
Just burning $$ & time !
Ok. Please don't start it with no fluid. Especially on an automatic. U can destroy a lot. Torque converters are too expensive. Rebuilding tranny's are expensive. I think 3x is nuts 😂 knowing that's it's not good to do a flush. Especially on a high mileage. If I were to ever do a flush. I suggest driving it a bit with the new in there. Then do it. Repeat that 3xs. Np on ever thinks to do these things. If u change it regularly u really shouldn't need to flush it. Like home boy says in one of the comments. Take the solenoids out and clean them if necessary. Tranny's don't actually really get destroyed on Hondas very often. They are good for a max of like 400+ hp. 😂. Atleast if u do it. Your not suppose to drain the system completely. Don't pump it out 😂. Please don't run it while no tranny fluid. That's dangerous. I don't car who ya are and and have done it for whom ever 😂. I didn't waste my schooling 😂
Video has been edited to cut that part out. Was just following a guide I found on the forums when I made this. Video should have the edits saved in the next 24 hours with the engine on in park removed on the first two fluid drains.
@@brycecarlson I get it. I'm old school. Not too old. But ya know in the time that we all thought it was a good idea. Later find out it's really not. Sure we've been doing it this whole time. But we probably could've preserved some parts 😂. It's like changing your fish's water. U don't change the whole thing. U take the majority. Same deal. I remember when they use to offer the fluid flush every where. Now we don't have that 😂. Not sure the exact reason. But pretty that would be a definite cause
@@brycecarlson no. I mean. I didn't know where the damn stick was. I always here this sealed engine crap and 99% of the time it's not what they claim. They just don't want u to mess with it bc it does take a special atf. People just put whatever they want in whatever hole 😂. I knew mine had one. Just didn't know where 😂 and I always change my diff when I do my oil. I love my crv. Plus no one has changed mine and it has 200k 😂
Silliest location for a filter 😭😂
The most wasteful procedure I have ever witnessed.
Thanks!
This is recommended by Honda. The people who built one of the most successful car companies in the world.
What can I do if that specific fluid is not available in my area? Are there any good alternatives?
You might be able to order it online from a vendor like www.hondapartsnow.com or this is similar www.autozone.com/motor-oil-and-transmission-fluid/transmission-fluid/p/idemitsu-type-h-plus-automatic-transmission-fluid-1-quart/81168_0_0
Great video! Thank you