I finally machined my 366.. I definitely pushed the limits of that Chinese cylinder lol 😆.. may have gotten a little carried away. I’ve made a few cuts and it stayed together. I still have lots of little stuff to do but I’m making progress. Thanks for sharing this and making a video. It’s great Content that’s needed to be shown for a long time.
I’d like to see how much you can get out of it without machine work or buying anything for it. To me the hole point of clones is being cheap so I don’t want to spend money on extra parts for them.
Try popup piston dyno run, then change squash dino run, then port work, then stock big bore, then big bore popup piston, then sqush then port work. Just my recommendation on baby steps.
I am glad you did that test. There are a lot of opinions floating around the internet about things like this. It would be fun to see if an aftermarket popup does anything. I hear a lot of people say it impeads transfer flow but I have my doubts.
Great series Joe, so far your findings with the G366 are spot on with the sample I have and mine is over 2 years old. Looking forward to the next step you take with this build. This would be a great format to follow with other saw builds like maybe a G372xp at some point!
Thanks Joe, hope you had a great Thanksgiving. It would be interesting to see a comparison with modifying the piston skirt versus the intake port to change the intake timing. Looking forward to the big bore test as I am currently building one on a ms361 with NWP parts.
Great Videos Joe, Thanks Have you considered trying to add a AFR. Gauge to the dyno runs, that could be interesting. Again appreciate your time and effort to make interesting Videos
Hey Dyno Joe, I have an idea for a future video. I'd like you to test OEM cylinder vs hyway vs meteor vs farmertec. Same bottom end same saw, just swap cylinders. Or any other brands of cylinder you know of. Bolt on power?
I did a did a big bore on my 50 rancher and trashed the new piston/cylender when a piece of the thinned base "wings" broke loose. Oh well $20 kit. Both ported I think the original 50 set up makes more power and runs better.
I lke what im seeing i have 92 cc big blue run it on my logosol mill its hsrd on saws but it holding up going a year useing it to mill. Iv made few mods muffler flate Choke shaft run filter mod has great power . What your doing real helps me to go in deeper the more power faster it mills logs . I have a 24 inch bar with a carlton ripping chain . Just in case anyone is interested in the mill theres alot on videos on this mill. Joe keep these videos coming its a big help.
Good content again!! What can I say I like the realistic approach to this series. I'm all about the big bore and any changes you can do as a homeowner. I'm an old gear head with plenty of porting experience on manifolds and cylinder heads. Yet I don't have small enough tools to port the uppers in a chainsaw. That being said. I would love what can be done with your off the shelf tools that most folks can do? Basically a realistic home diy saw that you don't have more money in mods than you do the saw. A diy bang for buck build is what I would call this. I'm still new to the 2 stroke platform but learning a lot from your channel Joe. How do you feel about low tension rings ? I didn't pay close attention does this have a single ring or dual? Maybe do just a single ring, low tension in the big bore? I'm just thinking along the lines of high speed low drag but keep the saw useable for the homeowner with longevity. Thanks keep up the good work Joe!
Joe, one test comparison I would love to see on your dyno would be between a stock cylinder like this one with a base gasket delete ported, compared to a stock cylinder ported to the exact same timing numbers but with the base and squish band cut. I have often wondered if on some builds if the machine work was really worth the extra work and risk of damage to the plating on a build that otherwise had the same timing numbers and squish when it was finished, also is there a loss or gain with often times having to make the upper transfers larger to correct the transfer timing on a cylinder with machine work. I run saws built both ways and it is often hard to tell if there is any difference. Thanks again for doing these test and making this content.
Would be interesting to raise just the transfers to whatever the thickness of the base gasket was. Probably .5mm? Leave exhaust port alone and see what just raising the transfers does on the dyno.
I think that one is tough just because of the way the numbers work out. Blowdown isnt super relative at the end of the day anyway in my experience. Like a 105 exhaust and 125 transfers is 20°bd, a 100 exhaust and 120 transfers is also 20°bd Both of them are 20° blowdown but the 2 will run totally different.
@@Super-Dave-Outdoors yeah would be a little tough. I’d be curious to see the exact same numbers like a 100 or 102 exhaust and a intake in the upper 70s like after machining the chamber and base. And then only change the uppers and see what that does to the power band.
@@mfsaws8240typically just moves the powerband higher in the rpm range. It varies from cylinder to cylinder. Dont have a dyno but handle mounted tach and methodically going through sets of numbers gives some anecdotal evidence.
Hello, I have a problem, I put a new piston and cylinder on the 028 AV, but I has almost no compression. What could be the problem, the set is medium quality.
Nice! I don't understand the .020 lower limit when modding chainsaws. Is that in case they ingest wood? Gordon Jennings 2 stroke book says .01 mm for every mm of stroke. That works out to .36mm or .014" for my 372. I haven't tried it yet:)
Carbon buildup and maintenance intervals is a big thing. I have heard of people run them tight before, but I like a little better safety margin. Especially with Aftermarket machine tolerances.
Love your work Joe!! Would you please try taking the decompression valve out and replacing it with a bolt possibly a few different lengths trying to take up space in the combustion chamber does it really make power?
Have you heard of "gas porting" pistons and "side gapping" plugs? I picked these up from a 2 stroke bike racer. Are these work trying or dangerous to the machine?
The stock carb was smaller it might increase air speed causing a cooler air charge wish you would have started with the muffler mod first to see if stock carb would perform
Hey Joe I have a question/suggestion for you: I recently read that having more oil in your mix will increase horsepower. That seems completely wrong to me. The more oil would mean less gasoline and a leaner mixture. I'd love to see some dyno runs putting this to the test as well as the cylinder temp differences with the different mixes.
@@SNELLERIZED I would like to see dyno runs regardless. And the leaner the mix the hotter the saw will run. Only one way to tell. Otherwise, why not just run 10:1 or even 1:1?
@@RMosher11 I'd like to see it too, (on a autotune saw) because as you said it would make it a little leaner so that would alter HP so you need to be able to distinguish between tune difference and ring seal differences. There is a balance, the extra oil increases heat absorption into the block but does provide better ring seal, If you look online these tests have been done on dyno with dirt bikes
I think it was Bell who already tested this. There was a point of diminishing returns. I don't remember the exact numbers, but I think it was something like 16:1.@@RMosher11
Intake duration if it's the same as transfer duration , will go down like exhaust unless you add gaskets ? Less top end ? l know you know this but i don't understand regardless of pipe and all things being stock given the current price of fish in China ?
I finally machined my 366.. I definitely pushed the limits of that Chinese cylinder lol 😆.. may have gotten a little carried away. I’ve made a few cuts and it stayed together. I still have lots of little stuff to do but I’m making progress. Thanks for sharing this and making a video. It’s great Content that’s needed to be shown for a long time.
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome. Putting simple mods to the dyno.
Putting numbers to common sense stuff we've done and argued about for decades. Fun for me to see.
This G366 clone saw series is awesome. Step by step mods with tests. Very interested in the results of the Big Bore . Thanks Joe
I finally machined my 366.. I definitely pushed the limits of that Chinese cylinder lol 😆.. may have gotten a little carried away. I’ve made a few cuts and it stayed together. I still have lots of little stuff to do but I’m making progress. Thanks for sharing this and making a video. It’s great Content that’s needed to be shown for a long time.
I’d like to see how much you can get out of it without machine work or buying anything for it.
To me the hole point of clones is being cheap so I don’t want to spend money on extra parts for them.
I had an 066 that only had .017" squish from the factory. Never was a problem. IMHO, .020" is just a general safe number, certainly not a minimum.
I have heard of some really tight ones before. Not sure why, I would feel more comfy with oem parts than these Aftermarket ones.
I know of a particularly fast 7900 by a builder that goes way back that was only .012", IIRC.@@dynojoemods2764
Try popup piston dyno run, then change squash dino run, then port work, then stock big bore, then big bore popup piston, then sqush then port work. Just my recommendation on baby steps.
I like the blue light!
I would like to see if you can maintain a strong torque curve.
I think the big bore will be underwhelming since you already have a good running jug.
Love these simple mod videos.
I am glad you did that test. There are a lot of opinions floating around the internet about things like this. It would be fun to see if an aftermarket popup does anything. I hear a lot of people say it impeads transfer flow but I have my doubts.
Great series Joe really enjoying the step by step upgrade. I would like to see basic porting then heavy machine work port job.
Great series Joe, so far your findings with the G366 are spot on with the sample I have and mine is over 2 years old. Looking forward to the next step you take with this build. This would be a great format to follow with other saw builds like maybe a G372xp at some point!
Interesting to know! Thank you for showing us these specs. Greetings from Germany. 🙂
Thanks Joe, hope you had a great Thanksgiving. It would be interesting to see a comparison with modifying the piston skirt versus the intake port to change the intake timing. Looking forward to the big bore test as I am currently building one on a ms361 with NWP parts.
Great Videos Joe, Thanks Have you considered trying to add a AFR. Gauge to the dyno runs, that could be interesting. Again appreciate your time and effort to make interesting Videos
Really enjoy the step be step. Thank for the video.
Have a my first mod saw build coming. 372xp clone with big bore kit. Very fitting direction you are going joe. Anxiously waiting
Great Video sir.
👍
Awesome, thanks for doing this Joe! Something I always do on my channel to any saw I'm pulling apart.
you could sand a little above the piston, if you have time, try making some small dimples in the exhaust, thanks
Hey Dyno Joe, I have an idea for a future video. I'd like you to test OEM cylinder vs hyway vs meteor vs farmertec. Same bottom end same saw, just swap cylinders. Or any other brands of cylinder you know of. Bolt on power?
I did a did a big bore on my 50 rancher and trashed the new piston/cylender when a piece of the thinned base "wings" broke loose. Oh well $20 kit. Both ported I think the original 50 set up makes more power and runs better.
I lke what im seeing i have 92 cc big blue run it on my logosol mill its hsrd on saws but it holding up going a year useing it to mill. Iv made few mods muffler flate Choke shaft run filter mod has great power . What your doing real helps me to go in deeper the more power faster it mills logs . I have a 24 inch bar with a carlton ripping chain . Just in case anyone is interested in the mill theres alot on videos on this mill. Joe keep these videos coming its a big help.
Can’t wait to see how the big bore does
I would like to see what the klotz nitropropane additive does on the dyno.
Nice work and testing each little changes that you are making. 👍👍
I think next is just clean up and match ports to intake and muffler- nothing scary yet. Then raise and widen exhaust a little.
Great info!
I would like to see what happens if you just bring the exhaust and transfers back up the 2ish degrees you dropped it.
Good content again!! What can I say I like the realistic approach to this series. I'm all about the big bore and any changes you can do as a homeowner. I'm an old gear head with plenty of porting experience on manifolds and cylinder heads. Yet I don't have small enough tools to port the uppers in a chainsaw. That being said. I would love what can be done with your off the shelf tools that most folks can do? Basically a realistic home diy saw that you don't have more money in mods than you do the saw.
A diy bang for buck build is what I would call this. I'm still new to the 2 stroke platform but learning a lot from your channel Joe. How do you feel about low tension rings ? I didn't pay close attention does this have a single ring or dual? Maybe do just a single ring, low tension in the big bore? I'm just thinking along the lines of high speed low drag but keep the saw useable for the homeowner with longevity. Thanks keep up the good work Joe!
Great job Joe!🤩
See what those goofy pop up pistons do? Do they make enough compression to change anything?
I might have to get one ordered!
Did you use any kind of permatex or anything like that
Thank you!
Joe, one test comparison I would love to see on your dyno would be between a stock cylinder like this one with a base gasket delete ported, compared to a stock cylinder ported to the exact same timing numbers but with the base and squish band cut. I have often wondered if on some builds if the machine work was really worth the extra work and risk of damage to the plating on a build that otherwise had the same timing numbers and squish when it was finished, also is there a loss or gain with often times having to make the upper transfers larger to correct the transfer timing on a cylinder with machine work. I run saws built both ways and it is often hard to tell if there is any difference. Thanks again for doing these test and making this content.
Would be interesting to raise just the transfers to whatever the thickness of the base gasket was. Probably .5mm? Leave exhaust port alone and see what just raising the transfers does on the dyno.
Awsome. Really keen to see the next couple with porting and big bore.how was the internal quality.
Great video! I’d like to see short blowdown vs long on a Dyno. Like full port job with 25ish degrees of blowdown vs 15 or so. 👍
I think that one is tough just because of the way the numbers work out. Blowdown isnt super relative at the end of the day anyway in my experience.
Like a 105 exhaust and 125 transfers is 20°bd,
a 100 exhaust and 120 transfers is also 20°bd
Both of them are 20° blowdown but the 2 will run totally different.
@@Super-Dave-Outdoors yeah would be a little tough. I’d be curious to see the exact same numbers like a 100 or 102 exhaust and a intake in the upper 70s like after machining the chamber and base. And then only change the uppers and see what that does to the power band.
@@mfsaws8240typically just moves the powerband higher in the rpm range. It varies from cylinder to cylinder.
Dont have a dyno but handle mounted tach and methodically going through sets of numbers gives some anecdotal evidence.
I would imagine 2 mm would make a difference. As far as rifles 1mm makes a huge difference in power!
Hello, I have a problem, I put a new piston and cylinder on the 028 AV, but I has almost no compression. What could be the problem, the set is medium quality.
Nice! I don't understand the .020 lower limit when modding chainsaws. Is that in case they ingest wood? Gordon Jennings 2 stroke book says .01 mm for every mm of stroke. That works out to .36mm or .014" for my 372. I haven't tried it yet:)
Carbon buildup and maintenance intervals is a big thing. I have heard of people run them tight before, but I like a little better safety margin. Especially with Aftermarket machine tolerances.
Has to do with squishband too. Some saws end up with super wide squishband. Where tighter squish can cause issues with the wide band.
@@dynojoemods2764 Thanks!
More power 😊 good job
Joe.....why do you pull the starter easy for a few pulls before pulling hard to start the saw?
No real good reason . I feel it may slightly prime the system. Or the shoulder lol.
When you remove the base gasket, you have to seal it with something. What do you seal it with?
I use hylomar universal blue sealant
I'm running like
0175 in my old 044 10mm.
Doing a timing advance?
Love your work Joe!! Would you please try taking the decompression valve out and replacing it with a bolt possibly a few different lengths trying to take up space in the combustion chamber does it really make power?
If it is not leaking, save the starter. That's why it is on the saw.
Have you done any mod videos on the G466 saw?
Have you heard of "gas porting" pistons and "side gapping" plugs? I picked these up from a 2 stroke bike racer. Are these work trying or dangerous to the machine?
The stock carb was smaller it might increase air speed causing a cooler air charge wish you would have started with the muffler mod first to see if stock carb would perform
Hey Joe I have a question/suggestion for you: I recently read that having more oil in your mix will increase horsepower. That seems completely wrong to me. The more oil would mean less gasoline and a leaner mixture. I'd love to see some dyno runs putting this to the test as well as the cylinder temp differences with the different mixes.
Better ring seal with more oil.
@@SNELLERIZED I would like to see dyno runs regardless. And the leaner the mix the hotter the saw will run. Only one way to tell. Otherwise, why not just run 10:1 or even 1:1?
@@RMosher11 I'd like to see it too, (on a autotune saw) because as you said it would make it a little leaner so that would alter HP so you need to be able to distinguish between tune difference and ring seal differences. There is a balance, the extra oil increases heat absorption into the block but does provide better ring seal, If you look online these tests have been done on dyno with dirt bikes
I think it was Bell who already tested this. There was a point of diminishing returns. I don't remember the exact numbers, but I think it was something like 16:1.@@RMosher11
.33 HP gain for the cost of 15 minutes work! 👍
👍👍👍👍
Go Big!! Or go home 🏡 🙃
Intake duration if it's the same as transfer duration , will go down like exhaust unless you add gaskets ? Less top end ? l know you know this but i don't understand regardless of pipe and all things being stock given the current price of fish in China ?
👍🏻👏🔥
Not bad. But you can’t beat cubes. OR in this case CCs😂😂😂😂.
WTF...
try raising just the exhaust with a round file, like anyone would do the first time😅
Big bore for sure will help
Thanks Joe! Happy holidays. Thanks for sharing! G111? G111? G111? 🙏🏽
Hey Joe, have you ported this 366 yet? Would love to see what she can make with portwork.
I finally machined my 366.. I definitely pushed the limits of that Chinese cylinder lol 😆.. may have gotten a little carried away. I’ve made a few cuts and it stayed together. I still have lots of little stuff to do but I’m making progress. Thanks for sharing this and making a video. It’s great Content that’s needed to be shown for a long time.
Great info!
👍👍👍