Clone G660 Less is More!!! Minimal machine work! Less CC More power!
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- Опубліковано 28 лип 2024
- Sawfest 660/85 cc entry. dropping the displacement to fit both classes
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Interesting build 85 cc. A good tip on those hyway cylinders try using a green silicon carbide stone to grind those ports works for me. Because nikasil is short for Nickel silicon carbide. I was a machinist and that is how you sharpen carbide tools with a green silicon stone without chipping.
These videos are pure gold for those of us interested/learning.... Thanks, Joe!
I think you’re doing some amazing things with these saws. The dyno doesn’t lie.
Its interesting to see how much the small changes make to the power curve, like the exuast port and timing changes, cool build and its knocking on the 10hp door.
Really enjoy these videos.
Clever build Joe👍🏻
Yours is the only channel I trust. You are busting all kinds of myths to you know.
Those fingers look like they working out.. I'm sure you'll see some more gains once you get into the carb and play with the venturi, butterflies, and shafts.
Sweet build
Great to watch cheers 😊
Awesome job, appreciate the knowledge
Amazing work, you're a magician!
Great information to chew on! Thx Joe!
Great work! The tiny improvements really make a difference! Well done!
As always, another great video Joe. Tremendous gains on that one! Awesome job and keep up the great work man!
Awesome work Joe! I feel sorry for your competition :)
Lots of Testing, Love It!!
Thanks for sharing and good luck racing ...
Thank you
Nice work! Thanks for explaining the ignition timing more - on how you decide to keep going or stop.
Great video Joe!
Nice build, Joe ! Greatings from Germany 🤘
Wow! Great video Joe. Never have I seen plating shred like that. Killer work showing the benefits in timing advance and how it actually improved the width of the powerband. Can you weld up a pop up to get a little more compression or is that outside the rules?
The last meteor 52 mm cylinder I ported didn’t have much meat in the intake port. Hit day light just blending the intake port. It was very thin where the grove is machined for the intake boot. Other then that not bad cylinders for the money.
Been a minute with youtube notifying me your videos are out but hope all is well buddy and interesting build keep up the great work 🤘
Thinning down, trimming one side of the key, I gotcha kool deal thanks
Would be cool to have a dyno. Nice to see what each mod does. Cheers
Hi Mr Joe!
Your banner is always flying on here, and THAT is a good thing fer ya 😊
In your case once you have a cylinder flake out it is just a candidate for a sleeve, right?
Looks great, wish i was closer to all the saw events!
It’s going to be “the bees knees” 😊
Great vid. What is leaking out of the red dyno valve
How about an 064 AV cylinder Or better yet, if you can get your hands on a MS 650 cylinder that has a thick flang
I needed the nikasil plating for the chrome ring, or I would have used a different option. Might have been better off thinning a caber to 1mm to fit the piston. But hopefully this holds up for the few cuts I have planned
👍🏻👏
On a firewood g660 how much timing do you think I can add and still have it last? Stock setup 91octane fuel. Thx keep up the good work
Hey joe! I was wondering what kind of paint do you use on your mufflers and like when you redo the crank case? Would love to hear back from ya! Love the channel been watching all of your videos and liking em thanks!!
He uses a ceramic high temp exhaust paint
Run some VP T4 in that bad boy. Guarantee you’ll pick up some power.
Have to run regular fuel for the class
@@dynojoemods2764 that’s kind of a bummer. T4 has about 6% oxygen content, 97 octane (R+M)/2 but the O2 is mostly where the power comes from. High compression plus advanced ignition timing is where that fuel will really shine. Would be interesting to get some dyno numbers.
Interesting vid Joe, nice work, I was surprised by the power made by the timming advance, also are those cylinders a bit hit and miss regarding chipping?, Noticed Tin man ported a highway the other day on vid and he said it grinded nice like an oem. 🤷🏻♂️
I have only done a few aftermarket ones, and always have more problems with the "better" plating. But I also get a bit aggressive. I have had the best luck with the cheap no name chrome kits.
I would be very interested to know how to advance the timing
U just cut the key. The little woodruff key just cut a bit off so u can turn the flywheel a bit advanced. U can actually buy em of all sorts . “Offset woodruff key”
Nice! Just curious, what grade gasoline and oil type/mix ratio? No intention of creating an oil debate!
Depends on the day. Either 87 pump gas or 90 e free with 40:1 amsoil dominator
@@dynojoemods2764 Thank you. Very interesting🤔Historically the only Efree here was 91 but recently a new filling station opened that offers 87 Efree for 40 cents less per gallon than 91 but still more than adultered 87. I don’t know that octane plays a role in 2 cycle engines anyway. I may just use the 87.
I noticed on a video the other day your dyno has a bigger sprocket on the water brake. My brain tells me that gives the engine an advantage but would it change the torque output reading at 12" vs it being driven 1:1?. Reason asking I'm trying to build a budget diy dyno using a disk brake and a digital readout load cell. No computer just math lol. But the thought of spinning a motorcycle brake disk 12k+ worrys me just a little. I'm just trying to understand the physics of the gear ⚙️ reduction and if it will change the torque reading and how to calculate its affect if so. I'm thinking if it's like a 3:1 gear reduction you would devied the torque reading by 3 to get the valve correct?. Any help appreciated Joe thanks.
Send me an email and I will try and help out.
Hmwfllc@gmail.com
Mine is setup as a 2:1 reduction currently
what is the point with fingerports? u never see this on a dirtbike.
Dirtbikes do use a lot more transfer ports. C ports, bridged exhaust and even boost ports. All has to do with transfer size/area. With a finger you and aim and direct the charge. Where just widening a single upper could catch a ring and not flow near as well.
Those finger ports are incredibly tidy, do you literally free hand them with a right angle tool?
Are these MS650 kits or 064? I have a stihl OE non clone ms650 and haven't seen cylinder kits for it at the stock 85 cc. I have a 54 mm p+c on it now and the starting kickback is insane. I have also had a lot of piston slap issues with this saw. Any thoughts? Thanks much
The clone saws are 54mm 660 size. But Hyway/meteor make a 650 cylinder 52mm which is what i used to drop the cc some. Dukes saw salvage has a nice 064 52mm kit. But the holes need to be opened up to fit the 660 case.
Always wondering how to lay out those finger ports
Sharpie and eyeball. Just stay inside the sharpie line.
Looks like the Neotec's can take quite a bit of timing advance. How much timing advance are you giving the 50cc and 60cc echos (490, 4910, 590)? Say, mildly ported cleaned up saw, not a race saw? How much do you think should I take off the key, and have it still idle good, and not start popping and overheat.
Other than the 2511/590s the echo dosent like much advance
ever thought of porting a cylinder then have it replated? just an idea
Nobody can finish size these blind cylinders once plated.
@dynojoemods2764 I've seen people do it themselves just time consuming the twostrokestuffing guy does it
@@2stroketime348
All the companies will do the plating part it is the finish/hone that is very difficult to do with the head attached. I have done 1 successfully but it took far too long to be worthwhile
@dynojoemods2764 right on I figured it wouldn't be easy
Halo bro