As an American who's laying in bed, when you went to the second bunch of printers and said "it's about a thousand pounds" I freaked out about how your table wasn't collapsing.
@@janeblogs324 lmao even as kids we know how bad it is... As soon as someone says "a foot" and you look down to see a different size you realize something is amiss
A Pound is like a dollar, just worth more ;-) [When I first came to the States many years ago I got $2.48 for £1 now its close to $1 for £1] In 2000 I had a hell of a job trying to explain that to some Floridian contractors who just presumed every currency was like a million esquadoodles to one dollar US and seriously would not believe me that the nominal value of a pound was greater than a dollar. I was simply dissing the States as far as they were concerned. I had to say I was joking with them so as not to be assaulted.
I always watch these videos and just get sad. I've been printing for 2+ years and I've not once had a print without a fail. I've just accepted it at this point. I've done the same model exposed from 2.5s all the way to 12s and they just. Don't. work. I've tried absolutely everything and can never find any help. I really wish that people were more honest about the fact that resin 3d printing is... About the most demoralizing thing you can do.
I’m pretty sure when Creality’s marketing department named the Halot, they didn’t imagine Luke spending a video talking about how happy he was with the results from the Harlot
I just bought literally the cheapest SLA printer on Amazon - the Phrozen Mini. It cost me $130. And it's AMAZING. 2k prints with anti-aliasing, and I can't distinguish any layers or artifacts at all. Small print bed, but PERFECT for gaming miniatures!
Don't let the "2K" fool you. Best thing about a small screen is the fact that you get considerable PPI gains. A small 2K printer is equal in quality to a bigger 4K printer. You need an 8K printer if you want good details with a big build plate.
I just got a used Mars 3 for 105 euros from Elegoo it prints perfectly and it came in good condition (it had a little cured resin on the LCD, took about 30 minutes to remove but besides that it was perfect)
I did not have much choice, money and availability wise, so the 2 that were available to me were the Anycubic Photon Mono and the Elegoo Mars 2. I got the Photon and only had issues. I needed to overexpose the bottom layers for it to not stick to the FEP. I sent it back and got the Mars 2 and it runs nicely.
I got my Mars 2 Pro 3 weeks ago and went nuts. I’ve made sandworms, a baby groot, printed a Godzilla and some my little pony figures for the kids… and about 3 sets from Artisan Guild and I can’t stop.
Personally I think the next big discussion around 3D printing that is not happening on UA-cam as far as I can see is the effect of temperature and humidity on the printing. I am betting it has a huge impact on the settings and the variety of temperatures and humidity levels is what causes so many people to have so many different opinions on the best settings for their prints.
@@alfredpotts6136 that's one aspect of it but I wonder if it also changes the chemistry. It very well could change the exposure time because it slows the chemical reaction or could even prevent the chemical reaction.
Resin printing needs a Benchie. Not literally, just a sort of standard mini with smooth and detailed bits so you can look at test prints and get an idea of where things stand.
This is exactly why I love Luke's videos. No fluff straight to the meat of the issues. Great information. And zMUD... I have tried to get recommendations for resins online for a while. So this is a 2 for 1 video..
I agree, a slow but successful print sounds like the ticket. I usually set and forget anyway until I hear that beep to get my print, cheers Luke this must of taken ages to get this video altogether.
Great review. It's amazing how cheap these 3D printers has become, and the quality is simply fantastic. If anyone had said to me that I could 3D print miniatures in my home 15 years ago I'm pretty sure that I would have argued against them :) Thanks for posting another great video.
They basicaly said exactly this to me and I laughed. Because I wasn't a lottery winner at this point. And today, it is a little bit bigger christmas present...
This video is great for showing the printer's results / performances and thank you for that, awesome info. Perhaps the most worrying thing about this video as well as others like it is the setup. People, you need a place to use these printers with an extraction setup if possible. The resin is very toxic, especially the fumes! Do not set one of these up in your house, without extraction, unless you want a constant head ache. Sure, table top printer if the table is in your garage separate to your house or in a shed at the bottom of your garden.
Not sure if you are interested into another one, but check the Anycubic Photon Ultra. It has DLP screen technology to get a sharper exposure and supposedly therefore even finer detail than before.
Two things I had to do with my Saturn to get it printing well- increase the lift height (mine is at 7mm currently, but I've read of others going to 10mm) and install a new FEP. The factory installed FEP was not tight enough, and the insufficient lift height meant the FEP didn't fully release from the build. This resulted in rafts but no minis or supports like you have mentioned. I haven't worked with zMud specifically, but these fixes might help you get better use out of your Saturn regardless. Good luck!
I just got a mars 2 and I had to slow the lift considerably before I got good prints. also had to sand the build plate a tiny bit to get stuff to stick every time. But now I've got prints coming out perfect nearly every time!
I've been making custom chapter icons, pauldrons, weapons, nameplates, and other bits on the Mars 2 Pro and Saturn. They continually surprise me with the tiny details they can manage. Still need to take into consideration how putting layers of paint on a model will change its surface, though.
Airbrush is a good way of getting rid of imperfections. Works wonders on my Ender 3 FDM. Mind you I modded her with a better lead screw that allows me to print at 20 microns (0.02mm).
You can change the settings of any sliced model on any chitu based machine without reslicing it via the settings on the display, can change base layers duration and number, same with normal layers, change light off delay etc.
@@GeekGamingScenics It seems it is number of base layers, base layer exposure time per layer and normal layer exposure time per layer that you can alter from the printer. I've emailed Chitu to see if they can include lift speeds, I see no reason why it can't be done as they have the ability to change layer times. Be interesting to see if they update to include it because I think you are right, it would be very useful.
Thanks for making this video! I expected there to be one obviously correct choice, but instead seeing all these great prints showed there are lots of fantastic options. Cheers!
Next year after anycubics affordable DLP printer is out I imagine some of the other companies will have one too. Look forward to comparisons with these too.
I have an Elegoo Saturn and have a tip for you if you want to use yours. Elegoo ABS like is nice and flexible and has really low shrinkage which is nice. But it is viscous and flexible which leads to failed prints without overexposure. I have found that mixing it in any ratio of 50% or more Elegoo Plant Based resin which is MUCH thinner results in successful prints at proper exposure and with lighter supports.
I'm very much interested in any further 3D printing content, I don't own one yet but I'm certainly getting interested in this hobby. Thanks for posting and have a good day.
Have watched this video loads of times. Its hard choosing out here. Thanks fpr this. Currently choice is between the mars 2 pro mars 3, or bene4 the extra touches just look awesome. I wish I could afford a bigger build volume but a wash and cure machine is more important to me.
Hmmmm... 200 quid for a 3d Printer, or 85 quid for a Space Marine Combat Patrol? 🤔 The jaws of home printing really seem to be closing on the physical mini manufacturers.
@@alfredpotts6136 I'm put off Resin printers by the reported smell and the cleanup process. Does your printer give you any issues? Where do you keep it in relation to your living area? Enquiring minds want to know.
I'm going to jump in with a recommendation. Voxelab proxima 6 is a 2k mono small format printer like the mars 2. Uses the same board and screen so parts are readily available and is built by flashforge so great company and community support but the big deal is the price....it's often around 150ukp on Amazon and so as far as I can tell is the best value 2k mono printer available
@@GeekGamingScenics proxima has a similar reflector spotlight setup and reviews have all commented on the evenness of the light distribution compared to other printers. I suspect it's not as good as the halot but UK supplied prices appear to be closer to 200 for that so I stand by the proxima being the best value machine....but the halot sure looks good for not alot more
@@GeekGamingScenics haha just like those lights you recommend the other week (great by the way so thanks for the recommendation) and wow yeah if the halots can be grabbed that cheap then they are a no brainer really
Seen a few reviews now comparing the new 4K printers but always on the common 28-32mm miniatures. No one yet has tried to check the detail loss if the miniatures are down scaled to 15mm with these new printers. Like with your 15mm KoW army video.
First Neil from Real Terrain Hobbies telling me that the Halot Sky is amazing, and now I see it here...awful tempting 😅 Would love to print some big miniatures
Wow! That's a lot of printers. I think 3D printing is a cool way to get the miniatures you are looking for, but unfortunately with how fast the technology is changing on the resin printers I just can't afford them right now. But I will keep my eyes out for maybe a deal that will come my way. But dude love the videos
Still waiting for my Mars3 4k to arrive....hope they sorted out all the bugs before distribution, there are quite a few bugs unfortunately so fingers crossed
It might be considered a mess up in the very beginning of the video but I actually like that I can see a sneak peek of behind-the-scenes because of the reflection on the case lol
Thank you for the video. I had decided on buying an ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X, because of the larger build plate but after seeing these in action now I have to rethink my purchase. Time vs Money, or put another way, size vs money.
This video great, but it would be so much better if the photos of the test prints would be in focus. Please look into "focus stacking" so you get a completely sharp closeup
Just FYI, my Mars Pro 3 with Siraya Tech Simple is essentially bullet proof. It doesn't fail and I do very little aside from controlling the environment.
Very cool to see this review. From my own experience, I am stunned by the quality my $179 Anycubic Photon Mono does. Superlative detail. The only reason I want another printer is for a bigger build plate and to print more often!
@@GeekGamingScenics I love my 4k mini but I can't say I've tried any others. Some ppl have Trouble getting supports to work with it, but I think I've just about figured it out (o:
You weren’t bullshiting when you said you had videos in the works… i just thought you were going on a bit of a mental/creator holiday for a bit with the quick vids (which i like also btw) But i think i did a triple take seeing the thumbnail with all those printers!! Crazy sadistic bugger to do that to yourself🤣 Grats on getting through it somewhat sane!
I had a similar issue with my elegoo where it didn't know where home was but I found that it was easy to fix that you just had to relocate the home manually and then its fine (I now have made a habit to clean the bottom of the print plate and re-level the plate after each print if not every other print) I do not know if you knew this but just putting it out there that it is a very easy fix. Edit: also my prints on my elegoo takes 3hrs plus always from the sliced prediction so it may also be a side effect
Yes please do more printer videos, I am looking to get one later this year. I want to know more options of others and their results. Cheers and thank you for sharing.
Hahahaha you son of a Viking butcher mini. I was literally just talking about making a video like this yesterday haha. Absolutely amazing job man. Great comparisons and you are right when saying you will be happy with almost any machine you grab. Although you and I might have to go to war over that zmud 😂🤣🤘
Okay guys, I'm just about to start playing with zmud, have a half liter sitting on my desk ready to use next week, what printer settings do you guys suggest? The stuff I found online said to use 2.5 to 5 second exposure per layer which is lower than I've ever used successfully. In this video you're saying it's longer than other resins? I'd love to hear your take before I dive into this resin.
so when is your version of this video as im interested in comparisons, also thoughts on resins for minaitures as slightly overcook elegoo grey and its very unforgiving.
I did it I saw your video and had to order the Saturn S bundle, think we’ll be back once the Jupiter is released in our country 🤣 I love your videos cannot get enough of them, have seen another guy who uses 4K resin so if you wanted to test that out I could find it for a review?
I would like to get into 3D printing, but I have some silly questions: Does it really smell that bad/strong? Do you need to have it well ventilated/isolated room since it toxic etc. ? There are different opinions floating around and getting some facts from someone who in fact has one would help.
i've been using the plant based resin, does the job just fine, in my shed with the window open, only a little aroma, and the resin is safer to deal with
My Anycubic Photon Mono did the same as his Mars 3, it didn’t come with the module installed and it kept trying to push through the plate. A couple years later and my wash and cure won’t work, the button completely seized and the printer just won’t put out prints anymore. I’m over it, I’m probably going to get something else.
Tell me, please, what do you think about Halot Sky vs Mars 3 in terms of the quality of the miniatures? Mars 3 is a bit ahead or are they of comparable quality?
Helpful video and so much choice now. I bought one of the early Anycubics and could never get it to level. Then it broke. I bought an Elegoo Mars and haven’t had a problem.
Im considering the possibility of a 3d printer. I especially would like to be able to print resin bases for my models that come with ground textures and brickwork etc already made but i have no idea where to start
I used zmud as well and it can be a pain in the posterior. Did you ever have a look at the Anycubic Eco resin? I use the grey variant for my prints. In my opinion it captures similar amount of detail and while still toxic it is at least made of renewable materials.
Been looking at dozens of Halot 1 reviews till I found this one. As a total newb I am going for this printer, anyone have some tips on the best setting to print mini's for tabletop?
Im looking at a creality halot one my self but can't figure out what kind of wash an cure machine to match it with! Ready to pull the trigger. Just want to get both at once an be done.
The video is interesting. I like those reviews. Helps me get informations for the day I'll get a 3D printer. But I have a question. Where is the final "Love, love, love" ???
I've had a HALOT ONE for just over a year, absolutely over the moon with it. If anyone was considering picking up a Warhammer Christmas battalion box set i would say get one of these instead (its the same price).
What about things that are even smaller, as like a challenge... minis that small would be pretty hard, so I'm talking a FONT test. Yeah! What is the smallest readable "point" font is possible... 4 point comic sans? 0.5 point IMPACT? What is possible?
How important is ventilation when using a resin printer? I want to put one in our study next to my PC for model and terrain printing, but I’m not near any windows or ventilation.
Thank you so much for this video. I saw in some other videos of yours some other devices the model comes in afterwards? Are those devices necessary as well?
Slicer's are programs that tell the printer how to print the file. Size, Orientation, and resolution are all set in the slicer. Type of printer depends on you're desired outcome, if you're looking to do miniatures with high detail, a resin printer preferably with a monochrome screen would be your best bet.
Slicing = formatting model into individual layers (slices) for printing. Printer exposes a slice, lifts build plate to let resin flow in, lowers and exposes next slice etc until entire model is done. Like one of those 3D jigsaws you can get made of stacking layers.
A question that is maybe not quite related, but kinda :) What's the smell like on the resins used on the printers in this price segment? At work we have Formlabs and Nexa machines and depending on the resin type the smell can get... less than fun, not quite something I'd want in my home. And while I can use the printers at work for personal things from time to time, having one at home would be more convenient in some cases.
I have a Saturn printer and I love it, though I’ve never tried zmud I am using my own mixtures of siraya and elegoo resins that I pigment myself and it’s working really well for me, my supports are a bit soft like you mentioned with the zmud and that may be for same reason, if you are getting really good detail then most likely the resin your using is highly pigmented. I have discovered this for myself that if it has more pigment then the resin is a little softer during printing/rendering, though it renders higher details because there is less light leak happening... Thanks for the video I really love your content and I may have to try out some zmud for myself. As a note I just tried siraya fast navy grey and have very similar results to my mixture, with the exception my custom mix is stronger and less brittle.
Would love to see you give the phrozen line or epax x1 4k a shot(esp sonic mini 4k, or mega 8k printers for phrozen) also im sure you know this but the 4k, 2k, 8k nonsense means so little, should give pixel size as print potential varies so much even with the same resolution depending on build plate size(ie a 2k small form factor has the same pixel size as a 4k large format, for most brands right around 50 um) the big differences youll see will be the small form factor 4ks, or large form factor 8ks(around a 25-30% increase in detail potential) of these the only one that had that potential is the mars 3 and itll take additional effort in dial in and temperature control to get there. To really make the most of them youll want to use nfep and potentially even fep lube, while I find zmud to be a good resin, my best results to date have been with sirayatech navy gray, for pure detail epax hard gray was also really good, but final result was more brittle after curing. Should be able to beat production models with a high end sculpt. Appreciated the vid, you got some great looking minis, but theres potential still on the table!
As an American who's laying in bed, when you went to the second bunch of printers and said "it's about a thousand pounds" I freaked out about how your table wasn't collapsing.
Same thing here! Lmao
Its at this moment you realise how utterly stupid all your metrics are
@@janeblogs324 lmao even as kids we know how bad it is... As soon as someone says "a foot" and you look down to see a different size you realize something is amiss
@@CaptJABRONIE as a kid I measured everything in sub sandwiches. It was a simple more universal metric.
A Pound is like a dollar, just worth more ;-) [When I first came to the States many years ago I got $2.48 for £1 now its close to $1 for £1] In 2000 I had a hell of a job trying to explain that to some Floridian contractors who just presumed every currency was like a million esquadoodles to one dollar US and seriously would not believe me that the nominal value of a pound was greater than a dollar. I was simply dissing the States as far as they were concerned. I had to say I was joking with them so as not to be assaulted.
This video doesn't capture how much of a long drawn out pain in the ass it must have been to do all these tests. Nice one.
Changing all those FEP's too...so many screws 😅
I always watch these videos and just get sad. I've been printing for 2+ years and I've not once had a print without a fail. I've just accepted it at this point. I've done the same model exposed from 2.5s all the way to 12s and they just. Don't. work. I've tried absolutely everything and can never find any help. I really wish that people were more honest about the fact that resin 3d printing is... About the most demoralizing thing you can do.
I’m pretty sure when Creality’s marketing department named the Halot, they didn’t imagine Luke spending a video talking about how happy he was with the results from the Harlot
Cracked me up very time he said it.
I want a Harlot - perfect marketing tagline.. They've already leaned into that angle before. Seems to be working out for them.
I just bought literally the cheapest SLA printer on Amazon - the Phrozen Mini. It cost me $130. And it's AMAZING. 2k prints with anti-aliasing, and I can't distinguish any layers or artifacts at all. Small print bed, but PERFECT for gaming miniatures!
Do you think It would be a good start for printing 3d mini's? I want to print characters from warhammer40k
would it work with 10/15mm minis??
Its that small bed that saves you. Larger beds with 2k suffer.
Don't let the "2K" fool you. Best thing about a small screen is the fact that you get considerable PPI gains. A small 2K printer is equal in quality to a bigger 4K printer. You need an 8K printer if you want good details with a big build plate.
I've read some reviews on the one you got and saw a few with some major issues. After 10 months how is it going for you?
You have too many printers Luke, it's time we had a little talk about your problem.
"What a stupid idea this is". Hahaha, you put a great big smile on my face with that intro.
The opening line, "this was a stupid idea"... perfect. :D
I just got a used Mars 3 for 105 euros from Elegoo it prints perfectly and it came in good condition (it had a little cured resin on the LCD, took about 30 minutes to remove but besides that it was perfect)
That stone troll is one of my favorite models
I did not have much choice, money and availability wise, so the 2 that were available to me were the Anycubic Photon Mono and the Elegoo Mars 2.
I got the Photon and only had issues. I needed to overexpose the bottom layers for it to not stick to the FEP.
I sent it back and got the Mars 2 and it runs nicely.
I got my Mars 2 Pro 3 weeks ago and went nuts. I’ve made sandworms, a baby groot, printed a Godzilla and some my little pony figures for the kids… and about 3 sets from Artisan Guild and I can’t stop.
Personally I think the next big discussion around 3D printing that is not happening on UA-cam as far as I can see is the effect of temperature and humidity on the printing. I am betting it has a huge impact on the settings and the variety of temperatures and humidity levels is what causes so many people to have so many different opinions on the best settings for their prints.
Siraya tech blu will not print for me if it’s below 30C.
Cooler temperature = more viscous resin = need slower lift speed to let the resin flow back under the build plate between layers.
@@alfredpotts6136 that's one aspect of it but I wonder if it also changes the chemistry. It very well could change the exposure time because it slows the chemical reaction or could even prevent the chemical reaction.
Resin printing needs a Benchie. Not literally, just a sort of standard mini with smooth and detailed bits so you can look at test prints and get an idea of where things stand.
there are a few...
@@insomniacbritgaming1632 A few is kind of the wrong number, though. There are several test print pieces for FDM, but only one Benchie.
U mean "Rook"?
@@GentlemanNr1 definitely the rook
This is exactly why I love Luke's videos. No fluff straight to the meat of the issues. Great information.
And zMUD...
I have tried to get recommendations for resins online for a while. So this is a 2 for 1 video..
I agree, a slow but successful print sounds like the ticket. I usually set and forget anyway until I hear that beep to get my print, cheers Luke this must of taken ages to get this video altogether.
Great review. It's amazing how cheap these 3D printers has become, and the quality is simply fantastic. If anyone had said to me that I could 3D print miniatures in my home 15 years ago I'm pretty sure that I would have argued against them :) Thanks for posting another great video.
They basicaly said exactly this to me and I laughed. Because I wasn't a lottery winner at this point. And today, it is a little bit bigger christmas present...
I mean, to be fair 15 years ago you would have been right 💁
This video is great for showing the printer's results / performances and thank you for that, awesome info.
Perhaps the most worrying thing about this video as well as others like it is the setup. People, you need a place to use these printers with an extraction setup if possible. The resin is very toxic, especially the fumes! Do not set one of these up in your house, without extraction, unless you want a constant head ache.
Sure, table top printer if the table is in your garage separate to your house or in a shed at the bottom of your garden.
Not sure if you are interested into another one, but check the Anycubic Photon Ultra.
It has DLP screen technology to get a sharper exposure and supposedly therefore even finer detail than before.
Two things I had to do with my Saturn to get it printing well- increase the lift height (mine is at 7mm currently, but I've read of others going to 10mm) and install a new FEP. The factory installed FEP was not tight enough, and the insufficient lift height meant the FEP didn't fully release from the build. This resulted in rafts but no minis or supports like you have mentioned. I haven't worked with zMud specifically, but these fixes might help you get better use out of your Saturn regardless. Good luck!
I just got a mars 2 and I had to slow the lift considerably before I got good prints. also had to sand the build plate a tiny bit to get stuff to stick every time. But now I've got prints coming out perfect nearly every time!
I had to sand mine as well. Make sure it's clean, fep is clean and lubed with ptfe lubricant and I've been great.
I've been making custom chapter icons, pauldrons, weapons, nameplates, and other bits on the Mars 2 Pro and Saturn. They continually surprise me with the tiny details they can manage. Still need to take into consideration how putting layers of paint on a model will change its surface, though.
Airbrush is a good way of getting rid of imperfections. Works wonders on my Ender 3 FDM. Mind you I modded her with a better lead screw that allows me to print at 20 microns (0.02mm).
Thank you for making this video literally a day after I bought my 3D printer
This was a great video, cheers! I've been wanting a 3D printer for ages but never made the plunge.
You can change the settings of any sliced model on any chitu based machine without reslicing it via the settings on the display, can change base layers duration and number, same with normal layers, change light off delay etc.
@@GeekGamingScenics you can change exposure both normal layers and base layers. I dont think you can change lift speed but its a while since I looked.
@@GeekGamingScenics It seems it is number of base layers, base layer exposure time per layer and normal layer exposure time per layer that you can alter from the printer. I've emailed Chitu to see if they can include lift speeds, I see no reason why it can't be done as they have the ability to change layer times. Be interesting to see if they update to include it because I think you are right, it would be very useful.
it's worth looking at the Anycubic Photon Mono as well, it's been on offer quite often and can be had for less than £200.
Thanks for making this video! I expected there to be one obviously correct choice, but instead seeing all these great prints showed there are lots of fantastic options. Cheers!
Next year after anycubics affordable DLP printer is out I imagine some of the other companies will have one too. Look forward to comparisons with these too.
I have an Elegoo Saturn and have a tip for you if you want to use yours. Elegoo ABS like is nice and flexible and has really low shrinkage which is nice. But it is viscous and flexible which leads to failed prints without overexposure. I have found that mixing it in any ratio of 50% or more Elegoo Plant Based resin which is MUCH thinner results in successful prints at proper exposure and with lighter supports.
@@GeekGamingScenics I haven’t tried zmud but you definitely have me curious about why it doesn’t work on the Saturn.
I'm very much interested in any further 3D printing content, I don't own one yet but I'm certainly getting interested in this hobby. Thanks for posting and have a good day.
Have watched this video loads of times. Its hard choosing out here. Thanks fpr this. Currently choice is between the mars 2 pro mars 3, or bene4 the extra touches just look awesome. I wish I could afford a bigger build volume but a wash and cure machine is more important to me.
This was great, and yeah it would be super helpful to hear more about how to find the best settings for the printer, understanding what they do, etc.
Decided to jump in with both feet. Got myself a mini 8k, should arrive sometime in May.
Still super nervous about an expensive new tool, but I've done all the research I can over the last 3 years or so.
Hmmmm... 200 quid for a 3d Printer, or 85 quid for a Space Marine Combat Patrol? 🤔 The jaws of home printing really seem to be closing on the physical mini manufacturers.
I think only the overpriced ones...GW
I got an Anycubic Photon Zero last year for £95. Does a fantastic job!
@@alfredpotts6136 I'm put off Resin printers by the reported smell and the cleanup process. Does your printer give you any issues? Where do you keep it in relation to your living area? Enquiring minds want to know.
Thank you for spending the time to do all this testing. Massive help.
Yes, I would definitely be interested in seeing more videos on 3D printers.
My Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k has been a boss so far. Great detail and very reliable. 2.1 second cure time.
Changing all the FEPS? you deserve a medal!
New sub. You had me at the 10 second mark with that laugh out loud intro :)
I'm going to jump in with a recommendation. Voxelab proxima 6 is a 2k mono small format printer like the mars 2. Uses the same board and screen so parts are readily available and is built by flashforge so great company and community support but the big deal is the price....it's often around 150ukp on Amazon and so as far as I can tell is the best value 2k mono printer available
@@GeekGamingScenics proxima has a similar reflector spotlight setup and reviews have all commented on the evenness of the light distribution compared to other printers. I suspect it's not as good as the halot but UK supplied prices appear to be closer to 200 for that so I stand by the proxima being the best value machine....but the halot sure looks good for not alot more
@@GeekGamingScenics haha just like those lights you recommend the other week (great by the way so thanks for the recommendation) and wow yeah if the halots can be grabbed that cheap then they are a no brainer really
Seen a few reviews now comparing the new 4K printers but always on the common 28-32mm miniatures. No one yet has tried to check the detail loss if the miniatures are down scaled to 15mm with these new printers. Like with your 15mm KoW army video.
First Neil from Real Terrain Hobbies telling me that the Halot Sky is amazing, and now I see it here...awful tempting 😅 Would love to print some big miniatures
Best printer ever!
Wow! That's a lot of printers. I think 3D printing is a cool way to get the miniatures you are looking for, but unfortunately with how fast the technology is changing on the resin printers I just can't afford them right now. But I will keep my eyes out for maybe a deal that will come my way. But dude love the videos
Cheers for this mate. Really good vid. Creality Halot getting ordered on the strength of this.
Thanks man I really enjoy these sit and chat style vids , more please. 🤘🤖🤘
Still waiting for my Mars3 4k to arrive....hope they sorted out all the bugs before distribution, there are quite a few bugs unfortunately so fingers crossed
It might be considered a mess up in the very beginning of the video but I actually like that I can see a sneak peek of behind-the-scenes because of the reflection on the case lol
Thank you for the video. I had decided on buying an ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X, because of the larger build plate but after seeing these in action now I have to rethink my purchase. Time vs Money, or put another way, size vs money.
I've had a mars 2 pro, a phrozen mini, a saturn, and the halot one has caused me less problems than all of them. Cheap as chips too.
Think I've settled on a Saturn 2, to future proof myself from needing another unit to print big stuff even if I won't be starting out with them.
I love that beige resin. The figures look like old M.U.S.C.L.E. Men (Kinikuman) "eraser" toys.
This video great, but it would be so much better if the photos of the test prints would be in focus. Please look into "focus stacking" so you get a completely sharp closeup
If you can, could you explain the "fast lift speed de-lamination line aka skip"? Do you know what's going on when that happens?
Any thoughts on the Creality LD-006? Looks like a good middle between halot one and sky but I’ve heard nothing about it
Just FYI, my Mars Pro 3 with Siraya Tech Simple is essentially bullet proof. It doesn't fail and I do very little aside from controlling the environment.
Very cool to see this review.
From my own experience, I am stunned by the quality my $179 Anycubic Photon Mono does. Superlative detail. The only reason I want another printer is for a bigger build plate and to print more often!
I'm thinking about buying one too. For the minis but also to make tiles.
Am in the process of figuring out which printer to get... looking at Elegoo and Phrozen. This is helpful, thanks :)
I've heard good things about the Phrozen printers
@@GeekGamingScenics I love my 4k mini but I can't say I've tried any others. Some ppl have Trouble getting supports to work with it, but I think I've just about figured it out (o:
Great video! Usability are really a good point. The devil in the details!
OH thank God, I need this video. I'm getting one! Gonna make my own minis in Medium. (gonna try)
You weren’t bullshiting when you said you had videos in the works… i just thought you were going on a bit of a mental/creator holiday for a bit with the quick vids (which i like also btw) But i think i did a triple take seeing the thumbnail with all those printers!! Crazy sadistic bugger to do that to yourself🤣 Grats on getting through it somewhat sane!
I had a similar issue with my elegoo where it didn't know where home was but I found that it was easy to fix that you just had to relocate the home manually and then its fine (I now have made a habit to clean the bottom of the print plate and re-level the plate after each print if not every other print) I do not know if you knew this but just putting it out there that it is a very easy fix.
Edit: also my prints on my elegoo takes 3hrs plus always from the sliced prediction so it may also be a side effect
Yes please do more printer videos, I am looking to get one later this year. I want to know more options of others and their results. Cheers and thank you for sharing.
Hahahaha you son of a Viking butcher mini. I was literally just talking about making a video like this yesterday haha. Absolutely amazing job man. Great comparisons and you are right when saying you will be happy with almost any machine you grab. Although you and I might have to go to war over that zmud 😂🤣🤘
Okay guys, I'm just about to start playing with zmud, have a half liter sitting on my desk ready to use next week, what printer settings do you guys suggest? The stuff I found online said to use 2.5 to 5 second exposure per layer which is lower than I've ever used successfully. In this video you're saying it's longer than other resins? I'd love to hear your take before I dive into this resin.
so when is your version of this video as im interested in comparisons, also thoughts on resins for minaitures as slightly overcook elegoo grey and its very unforgiving.
Luke collecting 3D printers like Pokémon 😆 great video mate. Nice to see the variety of quality and the honest approach to tech issues and such.
I did it I saw your video and had to order the Saturn S bundle, think we’ll be back once the Jupiter is released in our country 🤣 I love your videos cannot get enough of them, have seen another guy who uses 4K resin so if you wanted to test that out I could find it for a review?
I would like to get into 3D printing, but I have some silly questions: Does it really smell that bad/strong? Do you need to have it well ventilated/isolated room since it toxic etc. ? There are different opinions floating around and getting some facts from someone who in fact has one would help.
I print in my living room . one bedroom apartment. I use the water washable resin and cant smell anything.
i've been using the plant based resin, does the job just fine, in my shed with the window open, only a little aroma, and the resin is safer to deal with
I use Anycubic Ecoresin plant based too, barely noticeable vegetable smell. I have it in the corner of our dining room and never any problems.
Just bought an Anycubic. Can’t wait!
My Anycubic Photon Mono did the same as his Mars 3, it didn’t come with the module installed and it kept trying to push through the plate. A couple years later and my wash and cure won’t work, the button completely seized and the printer just won’t put out prints anymore. I’m over it, I’m probably going to get something else.
Tell me, please, what do you think about Halot Sky vs Mars 3 in terms of the quality of the miniatures? Mars 3 is a bit ahead or are they of comparable quality?
Helpful video and so much choice now. I bought one of the early Anycubics and could never get it to level. Then it broke. I bought an Elegoo Mars and haven’t had a problem.
You should look into Phrozen printers. I have a Phrozen sonic mini 4k and I am very happy with it.
Really good video, your 3d print video helped me make the jump so I picked up a photon s and I'm really happy with it
The Halot Sky has a ball screw. That really makes a difference.
Im considering the possibility of a 3d printer. I especially would like to be able to print resin bases for my models that come with ground textures and brickwork etc already made but i have no idea where to start
Ordered a creality LD002R was delivered with a broken screen. Ordered another same issue. So gonna try anycubic now.
I used zmud as well and it can be a pain in the posterior.
Did you ever have a look at the Anycubic Eco resin?
I use the grey variant for my prints. In my opinion it captures similar amount of detail and while still toxic it is at least made of renewable materials.
Great video! Really enjoy your content!
I'm curious if resin printers need to be used in a well ventilated area?
Been looking at dozens of Halot 1 reviews till I found this one. As a total newb I am going for this printer, anyone have some tips on the best setting to print mini's for tabletop?
Im looking at a creality halot one my self but can't figure out what kind of wash an cure machine to match it with! Ready to pull the trigger. Just want to get both at once an be done.
The high of exposure good details ??? Or other around
The video is interesting. I like those reviews. Helps me get informations for the day I'll get a 3D printer.
But I have a question. Where is the final "Love, love, love" ???
I've had a HALOT ONE for just over a year, absolutely over the moon with it. If anyone was considering picking up a Warhammer Christmas battalion box set i would say get one of these instead (its the same price).
Would love to hear more about how you dial a printer in. I find myself doing extremely long prints to make sure I have successful prints.
The video I've been wanting for hell yeah awesome video helps out a lot making my mind up
Halot One might be the new workhorse. My Photon can sense a change in the winds and has started behaving though.
Nice i got this recommended after buying one (Mars 2 Pro) hope it works 😅
What about things that are even smaller, as like a challenge... minis that small would be pretty hard, so I'm talking a FONT test. Yeah! What is the smallest readable "point" font is possible... 4 point comic sans? 0.5 point IMPACT? What is possible?
Those are some really nice prints
Can you do a review of the Phrozen 8K 3d printer?
854 likes at the last count. Mmmmm I think your fan base want to see more 3D printing videos on your channel 👍.
How important is ventilation when using a resin printer? I want to put one in our study next to my PC for model and terrain printing, but I’m not near any windows or ventilation.
do i need to buy also the washing and curing station after buying the printer itself?
Thank you so much for this video. I saw in some other videos of yours some other devices the model comes in afterwards? Are those devices necessary as well?
You remind me of my mate King Gary - classy!
What is slicing? What 3D printer would you suggest for someone wanting to get into and learn more about 3D printing.
Slicer's are programs that tell the printer how to print the file. Size, Orientation, and resolution are all set in the slicer. Type of printer depends on you're desired outcome, if you're looking to do miniatures with high detail, a resin printer preferably with a monochrome screen would be your best bet.
Slicing = formatting model into individual layers (slices) for printing. Printer exposes a slice, lifts build plate to let resin flow in, lowers and exposes next slice etc until entire model is done. Like one of those 3D jigsaws you can get made of stacking layers.
A question that is maybe not quite related, but kinda :) What's the smell like on the resins used on the printers in this price segment? At work we have Formlabs and Nexa machines and depending on the resin type the smell can get... less than fun, not quite something I'd want in my home. And while I can use the printers at work for personal things from time to time, having one at home would be more convenient in some cases.
The Model you showed for Creality Halot One and Uniz IBEE are the same but turned a bit. Maybe you showed the wrong one.
I have a Saturn printer and I love it, though I’ve never tried zmud I am using my own mixtures of siraya and elegoo resins that I pigment myself and it’s working really well for me, my supports are a bit soft like you mentioned with the zmud and that may be for same reason, if you are getting really good detail then most likely the resin your using is highly pigmented. I have discovered this for myself that if it has more pigment then the resin is a little softer during printing/rendering, though it renders higher details because there is less light leak happening... Thanks for the video I really love your content and I may have to try out some zmud for myself. As a note I just tried siraya fast navy grey and have very similar results to my mixture, with the exception my custom mix is stronger and less brittle.
Awesome video man great job! Out of curiosity where did you get that cool lizard mini from?
what parameters do you use for the zmud and the halto sky
Would love to see you give the phrozen line or epax x1 4k a shot(esp sonic mini 4k, or mega 8k printers for phrozen) also im sure you know this but the 4k, 2k, 8k nonsense means so little, should give pixel size as print potential varies so much even with the same resolution depending on build plate size(ie a 2k small form factor has the same pixel size as a 4k large format, for most brands right around 50 um) the big differences youll see will be the small form factor 4ks, or large form factor 8ks(around a 25-30% increase in detail potential) of these the only one that had that potential is the mars 3 and itll take additional effort in dial in and temperature control to get there. To really make the most of them youll want to use nfep and potentially even fep lube, while I find zmud to be a good resin, my best results to date have been with sirayatech navy gray, for pure detail epax hard gray was also really good, but final result was more brittle after curing. Should be able to beat production models with a high end sculpt. Appreciated the vid, you got some great looking minis, but theres potential still on the table!