The Sweet-Spot for 3D Printing Minis - Elegoo Mars 3 Pro review
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- Опубліковано 15 чер 2024
- UPDATE: Contrary to my note - the Mars 3 Pro "does" have an anti-scratch glass layer on top of the screen.
Do you 3D print or want to 3D print miniatures? Well, look no further than the Elegoo Mars 3 pro. Whilst it has some quirks (like all printers), with this build volume, resolution and price point. It's the perfect jumping-off point or upgrade for you to print large squads of units, vehicles and scenery for your favourite wargames - and yes - I print some Warhammer stuff too.
Buy the Elegoo Mars 3 Pro
Elegoo: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=182144...
Element Games (UK): elementgames.co.uk/paints-hob...
Amazon: geni.us/ElegooMars3Pro (This and all Amazon links in our video description are affiliate links. Clicking these and making any purchase will earn us a commission from Amazon at no cost to you)
eBay: geni.us/Mars3ProEbay
This Video is part of our series looking for the Best 3D printer for Miniatures; www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/the...
Get any printer working easily with the Photonsters XP Range Finder - www.thingiverse.com/thing:602... (watch my video for full instructions • How to Print Perfect M... )
Join this channel to get access to perks:
/ @fauxhammer
Buy WARGAMER - The best Resin for Miniatures yesthats3dprinted.com/pages/w...
Special thanks to the following Creators who provided models
The Custom Bit: thecustombit.com/
Grey Tide Studio: greytidestudio.com/
Blackforge Games: www.blackforgegames.co.nz/
Bestiarum Miniatures: www.myminifactory.com/users/B...
The Lion's Tower: www.myminifactory.com/users/T...
One Page Rules: www.myminifactory.com/users/o...
Puppets War: puppetswar.eu/
Red Makers; www.myminifactory.com/users/R...
H3llCreator: cults3d.com/en/users/h3LLcrea...
Halo Miniatures: www.fauxhammer.com/featured/3...
Halo Miniatures are by Vincent: www.artstation.com/vigilant3dart
Basing Materials: www.geekgamingscenics.com/col...
Artis Opus FauxHammer Starter Set: store.artis-opus.com/products...
FauxHammer Patreon - / fauxhammerblog
FauxHammer Facebook Group - / painthub
FauxHammer Discord - / discord
Best Airbrush For Miniatures: www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/bes...
Beginner Airbrush: www.fauxhammer.com/featured/b...
Affiliate Links to support us.
Element Games - elementgames.co.uk/wargames-a...
Wayland Games - affiliates.waylandgames.co.uk...
Forbidden Planet: forbiddenplanet.com/catalog/?...
Amazon - www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Warhamme...
RedGrass Games - www.redgrassgames.com/everlas...
Warcolours - www.warcolours.com/index.php?...
Website: www.fauxhammer.com/
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Music: www.bensound.com
00:00 - Intro
00:37 - Setup & Unboxing
01:01 - Mars 3 Pro vs Mono 8k vs Mini 8k
01:40 - Bed Levelling
02:08 - Build Plate
02:33 - Cheap USB Stick
02:52 - Fan Noise
03:06 - Sticky Lid
03:33 - Issues and Quirks Summary
03:54 - "Pro" Feature(s)
04:21 - Elegoo Standard Resin
04:41 - Exposure Settings
05:13 - 3D Printing Warhammer
05:39 - Printing Other Miniatures
06:51 - Printing Larger Models
07:08 - Printing Blackforge Games
07:29 - Ultimate Detail on Printed Minis
07:49 - Get Better Resin
08:21 - Antiailiasing Settings
09:10 - Printing a Wargamer Army
09:41 - Painting 3D Printed Miniatures
10:07 - Summary & Showcase
10:29 - Thanks and Close - Ігри
Buy the Elegoo Mars 3 Pro
Elegoo: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=1821442&u=3060349&m=104244&urllink=&afftrack=
Element Games (UK): elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/elegoo-3d-printing/elegoo-mars-3-pro?d=10279
Amazon: geni.us/ElegooMars3Pro (This and all Amazon links in our video description are affiliate links. Clicking these and making any purchase will earn us a commission from Amazon at no cost to you)
eBay: geni.us/Mars3ProEbay
This Video is part of our series looking for the Best 3D printer for Miniatures; www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/the-best-3d-printer-for-miniatures-models/
Get any printer working easily with the Photonsters XP Range Finder - www.thingiverse.com/thing:6023738 (watch my video for full instructions ua-cam.com/video/Gm0-z971tgY/v-deo.html)
Join this channel to get access to perks:
ua-cam.com/channels/_9Jsf3SP8aMJgn0xv5jHjA.htmljoin
Buy WARGAMER - The best Resin for Miniatures yesthats3dprinted.com/pages/wargamer?ref=FauxHammer
Hello! My name is Vincent, and I'm the guy who sculpted the Halo models shown in your video and on your blog. It's been a personal project of mine ever since the company making the official Halo tabletop game - Halo: Ground Command - announced their sudden and unexpected closure. I've been teaching myself 3D modeling since 2012, but hadn't done anything involving miniatures until I modeled a Halo figure for fun in 2017 for that game's despondent facebook group.
Much to my surprise, people LOVED it, and that snowballed into me making miniatures full time! As a way to keep the OOP Halo Ground Command game as accessible as possible, it's been a firm choice of mine to make all of my Halo-specific 3D models available for free, for personal use.
I've learned a tremendous amount about 3D modeling since I started this project, which is why there is such a stark difference in detail between my Army Troopers (modeled mid 2021), and my ODSTs (modeled mid 2018). I actually aim to redo some of my older stuff, like my Grunts and ODSTs to match my current quality standards, and have recently experimented with designing models specifically with skirmish scale in mind, given how many people like to scale my files up to that size.
Here's a link to my Artstation, though it doesn't have my more recent work: www.artstation.com/vigilant3dart
Great review, by the way! I recently got an Elegoo Mars 3 Pro as a third resin printer to expand on my arsenal, and it's served me well so far!
Vincent!!! I’m so sorry for my late reply and glad you reached out, I’ll put a link tk you on the video and the article.
I love these models so much, thank you for making them.
how does it work with trademarks or royalties ? you can't get sued by halo creators ? i am starting an interrest in 3d printing
@@inferidii he doesn’t sell the sculpts they are all free from a Facebook group we are a part of
Honestly, I was just checking out how much these cost. Now I am thinking I need to turn my house into a minature gamestore
Thank you for this-and your other-videos on the Mars series of printer.
I've purchased the Mars 3 Pro mostly thanks to your channel.
I'm just starting out with 3D printing and your channel has been extremely helpful. Keep up the great work!
Another great video! I'm still not a big fan of the elegoo ball joint plate but that larger build size is very tempting! And thanks again for the shout out! :-)
Great review. I've had my eye on the Sonic 8k for a long time now but this has made me reconsider. The price of the mars 3 pro is super reasonable and the results you are getting here are fantastic. Currently on a 2k printer myself but might by time for that upgrade..
If I had the choice of either for free (ok, i did get one for free), as a miniature printer I'd get the Mars 3 "PRO" over the Mini 8k anyway. Just get the Phrozen Aqua Grey 4k resin.
Thanks for making this video! It's been super helpful.👍🏻
Thank you sir! Really appreciate your candor and unbiased reviews... truly helpful, especially since I'm thinking of creating more gray shame with resin... lol cheers sir!
Glad it was helpful! That’s the hobby.
I'm quite happy owner of an Elegoo Mars 3 Pro for a few months now. It's an affordable, beginner friendly, easy to setup, to use and to service printer (it's my first SLA printer btw.). Never had the "cover sticks to the printer body" issue and my "cheap USB-stick" is still okay. I kinda wish there would be a way to clean the UV cover from the "nasty" resin stains though (Elegoo sells a replacement for ~$20). The protective glass LCD cover is a must on every SLA printer, in my opinion. The carbon filter on the other hand doesn't do much for me (I'm using mostly Elegoo Standard resin), but it's also not a selling point for me at all: I prefer wearing my respirator with organic vapor cartridges all the time I'm dealing with resin.
Glad yyou are enjoying it. it is a fantastic printers and despite me owning much more expensive printers, this workhorse is one I often go back to.
From being new to printing I like the 3 Pro . Tried the Anycubic Mono 4k and couldn't get it going for three weeks so out of frustration hence the reason I now have the 3 Pro . Out of the box it took right off and so far has done me well .
Can’t agree more, it’s a solid little workhorse that stays reliable
WoW! Those Greytide studio bits are awesome
This is only a selection. There’s a ton more online. I wanted to print them all
This is the first time I've found one of your videos, and immediately I wondered if you named your channel as a Halo reference. When I got to 9:10 I was not disappointed. 😆
By the way, the "Faux" instead of "Foe" for a 3D printer channel is the most clever thing I've heard at least all month, so a round of applause for that too. A+ 👏
You are the first person in the hundreds of thousands of comments I’ve read who has hit the nail on the head with that reference.
Yep, 100% FoeHammer - which as I suspect you know is in hours of the Dropship from the original Halo. It was my gamertag for so long!
Most people assume it means fake Warhammer….
Dude Thank you so much God Bless you man you answers all my question I have same printer and resin and thank you for posting you lychee settings!!! Keep making content!!
No problem, I hate sharing my settings, but will do more going forwards
even older 2k printers still can fill a table with mini's . nothing wrong with having last gens printer on the table
Yep, 100%
I just ordered a Mars 3 Pro, and I had spent so long trying to decide which printer to get, I was almost reluctant to watch this in case I saw anything that made me regret not going for something else. My biggest worry was if it was a waste of money going for the 4k over the Mars 2 Pro's 2k, or if I'd regret not investing more for an 8k.
Thank you so much for putting my mind at ease. I'm so friggin' excited. This 1-2 week wait for it to deliver is going to drag out so much.
Happy to help, yeah a solid printer this, Elegoo ever so slightly have the edge here over the 2 competitors
Great video, covers everything I wanted to know. In truth, I already have the printer coming within the next hour, I just wanted to make sure I hadn't missed anything.
you should love it! let me know what you think?
@@FauxHammer The initial calibration test print went well, but honestly I've been having issues where about half of whatever I'm printing fails entirely, basically didn't print at all. Not like a model is split in half, but like if I have 10 minis on the plate, then only the 5 in the front row are going to actually be there when it finishes.
I'm trying some new setting right now that have nearly tripled the printing time for minis from 2.5 hours to 6.5, so I'm really hoping this fixes it. Otherwise, I'm really at a loss.
I'm using the ANYCUBIC eco resin.
Can you drop me a link to what one of your fails looks like on the plate? if your exposure test prints fine then the print should print fine. Ifonly half of the plate is adhering, then its a levelling or base exposure issue. If the models break at the supports on half of your plate's worth of models its a new one to me. I:ve never seen a printer with weaker projection on just half of the LCD unless the LCD or light is failing.
have you done the exposure test by laying paper down on the LCD and turn on the LCD? do you have uniform light?
@@FauxHammer I would send a picture if I had thought to take any lol! When this print is done later today, I'll check again and find out.
I didn't do the exposure test, but I have used the clean bed function several times, and it surely looks like the entire display is lighting up completely evenly. I've had to clean the FEP off vigorously due to all the partial fails.
Is it possible that the issue is that I should be leveling the bed after each and every print? I leveled it for the calibration print, but I haven't since then.
@@Varian-Killbot Hell no, I level the bed once and screw it tight. Depends how hard you are having to scrape to get your print off though, but I leveled my bed at tbeore the start of used and didn;t relevel once through this whole vid and everything I did in it.
If you have scraped the FEP (Hopefully using a plastic scraper not metal), itmay be marred which increases opacity and done;t let as much light through, that could cause the issue, it may also be stretached in which case the parts are not unsticking as the bed is lifting because the stretched fep is just rising to the same height that the bed raises too.
If that is the case, increasing the lift height or replacing the FEP may help.
awesome review. Thanks so much!!!
I would love a desk setup like this
It’s fun I’ll admit
Well, you sold a printer. Good Father’s Day sales this weekend. The printer arrives on Monday. Thanks for the review!!!
Hope you enjoy it!
I still have my Anycubic Mono with a 2K mono screen and I love the quality that comes off it. It's perfect quality for what I want and I rarely get fails.
Personal preference for Resin is SirayaTech Navy Grey. After trying a few resins in my time, I feel it's the best value for quality and strength and only about 4 pound more than Standard branded resins.
Everyone keeps going on about the SyriaTech - I really should try it.
@@FauxHammer I used Phrozen Aqua Blue for the longest time and had amaaazing results with that. Proper rugged and dropping stuff wasn't an issue, but supplies ran dry here in the UK.
SirayaTech is just the bee's knees man, it's just as good.
@@tifauk Thanks for the tip, when I get chance, I'll give them a shout.
Awesome video. I had a quick question. I just started 3d scanning/printing, so my first attempt was at a Witcher minature, which I had to glue into a base. Should I 3d scan the mini/base together and then print? Would they even work? Or would I have to print the mini without the base then purchase my own? I apologize, I'm a n00b at this wholeheartedly and any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, love your content! quick couple of questions; do you need to cure and wash miniatures printed with the Elgoo Mars 3 Pro (or the Anycubic Photon Ultra) or can you just print them directly and then use them? And would you recommend this as a first 3D printer to get over the other models available from Anycubic and other brands for around the same price range?
I have never printed anything before, but i want to start building up my lizardmen and chaos warrior armies for warhammer 7th gen, as well as build an old Orc and Goblin army from scratch and make some fantasy scenery :) I just play with my friends, so it does not matter if they are not official Warhammer miniatures to us (plus 7th gen is out of print these days anyway). Thanks for your time, your advice is much appreciated!
Hi, sorry for late reply,
Yeah you need to wash and cure models on all resin printers. Most resins need Isopropanol to clean them but you can also get away with Meyths - which I prefer.
Some special resins can be washed in water, but even those should not be disposed of down the sink and need to be disposed of somewhere safe.
Ideally you then want a final cure to harden the outside of printed pieces. You can do this in a curing station, a DIY curing station, or even in sunlight.
I’d recommend this over the similar models such as the mini 4K because this has a slightly larger build volume.
Hope that helps
My Mars 3 is excellent for my N scale models - I'm using Elegoo water washable resin and find it a bit brittle for really detailed parts, especially if during the scaling process (I often scale down HO models) the parts get too thin.But it seems to be able to handle reproducing even the tiniest details.
Super usefull, thanks !!
Glad it was helpful!
Got mine a few days ago. I'm going to print Jewelry Wax Molds for it.
Having only experience with a delta filament printer with "supposed" auto leveling, I feel manual adjustment are far superior. Just bought the mars 3 pro as my first resin printer and waiting for it to arrive. I've only had the monoprice mini delta and the flsun qqs. Both have auto leveling and both continuously start hitting the print after a certain height if I make large objects. One side of the plate seems to be higher with no way to adjust and I'm pretty sure there is some warping. Sometimes I get great prints but most of the time it fails. So I'm trying something new.
Oddly I’ve just gone the other way and have a Neptune 3 pro which auto levels. And I also keep knocking prints
@@FauxHammer I feel that a combination of manual and auto leveling would be the ideal solution. Auto leveling to get the base height and manual for the fine adjustments. Heard the Neptune 3 pro is a really good one, though it seems some of them also have their issues lol.
Thats an awsome printer, for the details shots next time put the miniatures on a steady surface so the camera will not loose focus every second 😆
Great video made me buy it for printing minis
Thanks, I know, I was gutted but did not have time to fix the footage before deadline. it was my hand shaking but I've sorted that out now with a new lens and I can get my hands in easier.
really good video.
Thanks!
Whelp. I'm convinced...
Cool, glad to have helped
I'm buying this
nice
I've gotten into Age of Sigmar skaven lately, and there are still 20-30 year old sculpts in the range... So I decided that a 3d printer was in order, for me to create much better looking proxies to use in game. I was very pleasantly surprised with the quality of the prints you show in this video. How many tries should I expect to get this quality, if I were to buy this printer?
Use a resin exposure finder which takes about 10 mins to print each time to find your perfect t exposure setting fir the temp in your room.
Then 0 tries. It will just work.
I took my settings from lychees recommended exposure time 2.2 seconds if I remember right. And it just worked
@@FauxHammer Worth noting that a newbie will still need to find quality presupported miniatures to print, if they want successes right out the gate. Some "presupported" models are such ramshackle messes it's clear the creator never printed a test model, and some are so undersupported you have to wonder just how slow and overexposed they like their prints.
I had a Mars 3 Pro, the only thing it ever printed was the sample print and some basing skulls. I went through 10 FEP screens, finally losing my temper and leaving a leak that hardened on the screen. This was after months of failures regardless of level, exposure or any other settings. I have given up on resin printing because of my experience with this machine.
Thanks enjoyed your video. I think I’m going for a bigger Saturn
Don’t blame you, have you seen our Saturn review?
Would you recommend this before the Phrozen mini 8k ? I am on the fence in wich one to order, i am now using a formlabs form 3. But want something smaller and not so expensive to use. And i only print in 1/6 scale :)
Wow, I’m confused how to answer that as it’s give me so many questions.
If you use a form 3, why the heck would you downgrade to either of these? I thought the firm 3 was a good-tied production model.
The Mini8k is great, when you use the 8K resin. When you use something more flexible like Phrozen 4K resin , it’s not as detailed.
So if you are printing game pieces like me that you want to use and move and flex. Just get a 4K printer because the softer resins do not seem to benefit from a higher res lcd.
If you are printing display lives or master models. You will have more support tidy up to do in that 8k but it does have the best and smoothest prints
Does that help?
I getting it, the best for me to do Printing
I love it, one of my fave workhorses
My Anycubic Mono just died on me after years upon years of service. Just bought this one and it seems pretty good. Just worried about the resin splash that will damage the cove =\
Great presentation !! What printer would you use for jewelry printing ?
Thanks, probably the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8k
@@FauxHammer I can see incredible detail in most of your presentations for different printers, but I will definitely take that into consideration. Why would you choose that printer in particular over the elegoo Mars or the anycubic ? Your video really catch my interest for the way that you don’t go into to much jargon and instead highlight the pros and cons of the printers and it’s variables as well.
Thanks again 👍
Never seen the carbon filter accessory and weirdly, it might have sold me on a resin printer. The smells and fumes have always made me steer away, but with something like that, that could change my entire perspextive
Hey been a patron since joining with the release of Imperium magazine in Germany. I think the videos you are doing are great. But tbh theres a lot of this stuff out there on UA-cam and for many beginners like me it's not that interesting.
I personally would prefer some videos that helps me getting better and maybe build on the stuff that is in the Imperium magazine.
Maybe I'm not the only like that. Just as a food of thought
Awesome, thank you!
I get what you mean, and wold love to do that stuff, I simply don;t have he time. These videos take so much time to edit and I need to put those efforts into what I;m passionate about at the time in order to continue.
Whilst I love imperium, coving that content would make my channel as valualble as the magazine lasts - when that mag ends, my channel dies.
I cover the mag on FauxHammer.com and there are plenty other channels here who cover imperium in better videos than me. Such as @thehobbycorner
I have an Anycubic Photon Mono (not the X), and I’ve messed around with it for a couple years and was able to get a few, maybe a dozen good prints out of it, would this be a good upgrade from that printer? Thanks!
Not really, they are both about the same resolutions check out the larger printers with 10” 8k displays fir a good upgrade
Thanks for this review, this printer is on my short list and this has really helped getting things even more in focus.
You might want to check out "heroes infinite" from "raging heroes" they have some amazing stl's.
Thanks, if I spend anymore money in STLs I’ll end up being divorced
My OG mars 3 broke, so might be time to update :)
why not go bigger? Saturn?
How does this printer compare to to the other offerings at its current price of about $200 USD? It is currently ranked at #13 but the #1 is priced at $900. If just starting out in resin 3d printing is this difference diminishing returns or is it worth the more than 4x the price?
Not really man, I would recommend starting with something like this so you can really find out if it's right for you as there is a learning curve.
For Big Bendy Sword Guy, you used the Elegoo standard gray? Because I use that and my prints are very brittle (especially the swords!).
I did use Elegoo standard grey him. It’s so weird, I have the same problem with Phrozen 8k resin where other people do t.
Wondering what your ambient temps are and cute times
@@FauxHammer My ambient temperature was probably always a little lower than needed but I would still get good detail. I bought one of those homebrewing straps and a growth tent to hopefully fix any temperature issues, just haven't gotten around to using them yet with my current painting backlog.
For curing, I usually do a few minutes, like 2.5?
Just picked one up as my first resin printer. For miniatures, is your recommendation to start with Anti-aliasing on and image blur 2 or 4?
Start with 0 on one model.
Then add 2
then add 4
See what you like,
Don't rush it.
@@FauxHammer thanks
i think they should just stay at 8k and just make 4k and 8k more and more affordable with more easy printing to ensure plug and print. maybe even have tech to detect on whether a print will fail. or automatic detector if the bed is level.
I hear you, additionally we need heated vats and automatic empty/refill mechanisms.
Please help me...
I am new to resin 3d printers. I have had fdm printers for a long while and I love them. But my resin printer is absolutely frustrating.
The prints come out okay, but the whole thing is becoming a sticky monster. My vat, my workstation, my tools, everything is just horribly sticky. So much to the point where I can't even wipe the vat with a paper towel because it just rips it to shreds.
I have even tried putting my tools in the wash station (I have the anycubic wash and cure bundle with the photon mono 4k).
If you have any advice please, anything would help.
It happens, it’s from residue that’s splashed and spilled from various actions
Take the lid, put it out in bright sunlight fir half a day.
Instead of scrubbing, you need to soften the partially cured resin to get it off, but it will be a pain, use odourless Methylated spirit instead of ipa and soak a rag in it. Let this stil on the parts with cured resin for a while. You should then be able to remove it using the rag (not paper towel which will tear.
If you still can’t get it off, cure it. Put the bat to one side and put the printer out in the sun a while
I am considering to have mars 4 and i am gonna probably use anycubic's water washable resin. (Due to IPA smells) Can i use the 18 micron potential of the printer by using this resin? In my country mars 4 costs 280 dollars and mars 3 pro costs 210 dollars recently. Also i wonder if frensel lens affects final print or not. (Because mars 3 pro has fresnel lens but mars 4 not.)
are the models showed here cured seperately or just shown straight from the printer?
Straight from the printer
I would be very grateful for advice. I would like to buy my first 3d printer. I read your reviews and I'm thinking about Elegoo Mars Pro 3 or Anycubic Photon Ultra. Both are now the same price in my shop.
I think I answered this, but at the same price. D2 hands down. It’s much easier to dial in exposure. Details are sharper and it will last longer. Build plate is small but will do for most things.
@@FauxHammer I meant Elegoo and ultra are the same price. D2 is twice as expensive. At least for now in Poland
@@kostek83 Still the Ultra.
I mean, honestly, it depends what you want to a regard. The Ultra is Sharper, but an cause some layer lines (hense the need for antiailiasing which more-orl-less eradicated them, the Mars is Smoother but less detailed on the sharp edges.
Ultra is so much easier to dial in because even if you significantly over-expose you don't get much outward light bleed. It also lasts 10x longer before display components need replacing. This is good if it is in a colder place because resin like to be around 20 degrees celcius.
Mars 3 is a solid beginner 3D printer and will give you smooth models as shown here (which is the 3 "pro" just to be clear!). But if I were offered to make a choice between the 2 at the same price. And I wanted it specifically for miniatures. I'd choose the Ultra, along with some DLP Craftsman Resin even with it's smaller area.
If I wanted to print bigger things, as i often do now. I'd get the Mars.
You won't be disappointed with either.
@@FauxHammer Thank you very much for your answer! You helped me a lot! That's why I love your website so much, thanks to it I rediscovered my hobby after many years and I get my kids excited.
I always hear people mention environment and talk about the cold messing with 3d prints. But where i live its hot all the time, does that do anything? Its been over 100 for probably 15 of the last 20 days.
It makes the resin a bit softer, but not significantly so. You’ll have far more problems with colder resin 100F is on the high end, I’d want to cool it down.
But I’d also want to move out if what ever country you live in because that is silly hot. I’d spend all day day in my fridge
Im here for the warhammer figurines.
Is this still a good entry printer? Has another been found to be better?
Best!
thanks
Hello, It is a problem stay into the room when you printing?
This one is selling for the same price as the Saturn S with discounts at the moment - which would you recommend of the two? Tough choice! Thanks
the mars 3 for more detail, the S for larger prints..
Saturn 8k or Saturn 2 if you can stretch to it for best of both.
@@FauxHammer awesome thanks for that!
@@FauxHammer One more quick question if you don't mind - seeing as your one of the few who has used all these hands on..! Is the Anycubic Photon D2 noticeably quieter than other printers (Mars 3 or Saturn 2)? I'll have the printer in an open plan space so a really quiet printer would be a huge bonus. Thanks again
@@bilbs87 it has no fan, so yes quieter, but you can still hear the humm of the build plate moving up and down, and the occasional pop as the model detatches from the build plate
@@FauxHammer do you plan to review the creality halot-mage / mage pro? Sounds very good on paper for the price point..!
I make my own 3D models, and first time going into 3D printing, this really helps me understand that resin printers are the way to go for figures.
Should I wait for the new Elegoo Mars 4?
Are there any better ones for around a $1000 budget?
ooh wow, i mean that's such a wide ranging question. Yes there are better printers than this $300 for $1k but when choosing a printer, it depends what you want to do. No need to wait for the Mars 4, that series will be out this year but that's a guess and I've no idea when.
I focus on miniatures. and I focus on printing miniatures for wargames and general painting. So i want a balance of quality and volume. my favourite printer right now is the Anycubic M3 Premium. It's top quality, decent print area and just keeps working.
For quality, there's the Mini 8k, offering 22 micron prints. (relatively the Saturn2/m3Premium/Mighty8k is 28.5 and the mars 3 is 35)
However the Saturn 2 using a Fresnel lens is pretty darn sharp at 28.5 micron, but i keep having to reset the build plate. which is annoying.
You could also go the DLP route if they are your miniatures and you want model to result accuracy, but you will likely encounter some layer lines in certain areas. they are lower resolutiion but sharp.
bets thing to do, start here and see if this helps. www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/the-best-3d-printer-for-miniatures-models/
If not, come back and tell me what you are printing and why you are printing them? Mini's Dioramas? Busts? Jewelery?
Are you printing to sell in volume, or are you printing masters to then cast?
Is the diffrence between Mars3 and Mars3 Pro big?
What kind of usb sticks works with this printer?
whats the Elegoo Mars 3 Pro like at printing 6mm miniatures?
I’m sorry, I never tried this
You should mention that 35 microns is significantly less than a mid sized 4K printer can deliver. It's basically near what a mid size 6k printer can deliver. Otherwise pretty impressive though!
Thanks, Personally i don;t see that much of a difference between 35 and 22. It;s there when you look through a macro lens, but ic an't see it with my eye.
@@FauxHammer true. This is more of a spec race than anything, at least in my opinion. I'm not saying that there isn't a difference, but it's certainly did not quadruple the detail as it does the resolution going from 4k to 8k :D There are a lot of other factors that determine the output quality here for sure. Still nice to have though!
I cannot seem to find the link to the aloy model, can anyone help me out?
Sorry cults3d.com/en/users/h3LLcreator/creations
@@FauxHammer thank you!
Is this still worth getting now or pay the extra for one of the Mars 4s?
Definitely worth getting, have you seen my comparison video? ua-cam.com/video/pRiDUaDz_z8/v-deo.html&lc=UgwN5iHf9yOcIpC6RJZ4AaABAg
I just got one of these lol guys the other day and... I AM HAVING A HELL OF A TIME!! lol. I haven't even made it to failing prints or anything yet I can't get G2 box to accept any files I download it's all the software I'm having issues with and the instructions do not line up with what works I don't understand if they haven't updated their instructions or what but I know there's enough spelling and grammar errors contained and said instructions to almost make me question if I got a counterfeit printer LOL
Yeah, instructions are poorly translated and clearly not checked by an English speaker.
have you watched this? hasn't failed anyone yet. ua-cam.com/video/Gm0-z971tgY/v-deo.html&ab_channel=FauxHammer
I prefer the elegoo saturn 2 8k
Can’t wait to try one
Hello! Is there any chance to find cool FREE models to test the 3D printer?
Yeah, check out one page rules. They have free starter sets
Do/should I just give up on chitubox and buy lychee? I downloaded some files from 3D coats and it wouldn't accept any of them
then something is wrong with the install or the files. no reason sing drag and drop, sometimes I've had issue with that and need to go to file>open. make sure your files are in STL format
Hell Creator? I can't find them and I don't see them in the video's links. Can anyone help?
Ooops sorry it’s H3ll Creator. Here’s his insta with link tree to other platforms like a Patreon and Cults
instagram.com/h3llcreator?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
@@FauxHammer Thanks so much! Great vid, BTW
Really cool video. I still feel 3d printing is a whole other hobby within the hobby though and it's still not at a stage where it's accessible to the masses. Lots of settings to adjust and not plug and print and affordable. At least yet. It gets closer every year
3D printing is easy lol
How is the printer holding up?
Stopped using it after the review. I have a Saturn 2 now
Nice!!
Hello, my name is Adonis, and im noticing that when it comes to my prints, the hands and weapons appear flat. How can I fix that?
watch my latest video
Can you link the profile setting you used?
im very 3d print illiterate, i have the mars 3, i put the goop in, i slice my stl through chitu box and upload it to the flashdrive, ive doubled the print exposure time, plug in the u drive, hit play, and when its finished, i have a base, and a circle stuck to the resin tank. idk if im just dumb or if this shit doesnt work, but if theres an expert out there, id really like to be able to 3d print anything
Ok, you should join the Facebook group for the Mars printer users who can help in detail.
But based on what you said, i;d say the first thing you need to do is make sure the print bed is level, seem slike it may be too far from the build plate.
For exposure settings, use whatever the most popular profile is in Lychee slicer as a start, and print an exposure test file. This one is what I always use
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4707289
Count the number of dots and number of holes (on the left). it should be pretty much equal. more posts than holes - it;s overexposed, more holes than posts is underexposed. up and lower the exposure settings until you get this right.
Start wth the settings you get in lychee, if you overexpose the base layers they will stick to the FEP more than the Plate. which is why it;s staying there. 25-30s base exposures should be fine. around 2s normal exposures is about right for 0.03mm
But your environmental temperature is important too, my seeings above work from around 15-15 celcius. if you are below that, you may have issues becasue the resin is too cold. you can up your exposure time to compensate but this makes the resin more brittle and can cause numerous issues.
Thei video will cost future me a lot of money
I just rec the Saturn 3 12k, after 6 yes 6 attempts this so called great printer has yet to complete one job and I taking about just printing the rook the best I have to get is about 90% complete, than the it falls off the plate and sticks to the pan. Sooooo I looking for a refund.
Sounds like your resin wants to be warmer or have a longer exposure time in the base layers.
@FauxHammer my house is 70 degrees, and it is the kitchen. I appreciate you responding to me thank you. How can you heat the resin?
Just an fyi Elegoo customer support in non-existent
@@bobaddonizio9476 that’s about on the low end of good enough. But should be ok.
Then my thoughts are that your resin base exposure time is too low for the particular resin you’re using.
If things are falling off the plate at any point, you base exposure is too low. Elegoo’s room test typically only works with some resins because the settings were price figured
Have you watched my how to print miniatures video? It’s the best place to get started.
@FauxHammer Thanks you! I'll give a watch. The resin is the one they gave me with the machine. And ufrom what I have seen the first print is set by The Company. I'm truly not impressed, not only with the printer but also with the non-existent support.
The Mars 3 Pro isn't good for the price you pay. This is far too expensive for a Mars printer. Any Mars over £200 isn't worth it. For the price you pay for a Mars 3 Pro, you should just get a Saturn as you will get far more out of it, and a Saturn is far more efficient.
Saturn is double the price? I agree it's much more convenient
@@FauxHammer - You can get a Saturn for cheaper than the Mars 3 Pro.
Who can afford all that crap? I don't know anybody that can justify purchasing something like that especially for what you're using it for. Seems kind of irresponsible.
I’ll assume this is a joke
do they make this one with an 8k resolution?
9k, The Mars 4
Which one would you reccomend if a person needs enough detail to print lets say eyelashes, pupils, and beard stubble. 😉
On what scale model? On a bust or a miniature?
@@FauxHammer I wrote that as a gag. I paint and some of these super detailed minis (artists) do not consider us lowly painters. Sometimes it's too much. Or the detail isn't sufficient to take paint by having enough depth or edges etc... looks great in 3d view on the pc but once you start slapping paint on it fades into "what was that thing again" lol
But for scientific purposes ... let's say 75mm ish scale.
I went to Vincent’s sight but couldn’t find where to download the actual halo models could someone help me out? Thank you!
Read the video description and follow the link to my site, it will explain it
@@FauxHammer ok read through it I’ll have to try this out tomorrow and see if it works! Thank you I’ll let you know if I run into any problems or if I don’t haha:) truly though great video thanks for making it I had no clue there even where any halo miniatures!