The biggest thing about you and your channel Steve is all your videos are made to inform people and have so much information. From when you tuned cars you broke down everything the best you could to show what steps you take when tuning a car. When you had issues with the cars you told us about they and how to prevent it from happening. Thank you for always having our backs.
People rather believe some kid tuned by someone with only 500 miles on a RA block vs someone’s who’s been in the game and worked on the engines forever
Check out the metallurgic and hardness tests I posted on IWSTI comparing RA and older STI pistons. RA and older STI pistons are the same. The results were so similar, they told me the pistons could have come from the same batch. They were not from the same batch, but they were making a point. The composition of both pistons is the same.
There seems to be a lot of contradictory information out about the pistons, in the end they are still breaking in the same way so it doesn’t matter at the end of the day , when I put them side by side I couldn’t really tell the difference myself so I tend to agree with you , only thing I really notice in the block itself looks “nicer”
@@stevetuned I didn’t have grain structure tested as you mentioned. But in the end, it’s a cast piston. Not surprised you see the same issued with the RA’s. Great to see you posting on youtube again. Always helpful to hear from people with expertise on this.
Thanks Steve for teaching us something. I haven’t learned this much from a you tube video in a long time. I hope other you tubers see this and take note.
As an amateur tuner, I always wanted to see more laptop action in your videos. Maybe it's not info you want to share, but it would be cool to see a start-to-finish tune of cookie-cutter 400whp STI or something, maybe with MAF/SD hybrid or Open Source tuning, etc. There just isn't much info out there other than maybe HP Academy.
Continue to bring info. You are a well knowledgeable person. I definitely respect your knowledge and experience. Don't feel discouraged by negative people.
Super informative video, thank you. I'm 55 years old and my midlife crisis is buying and repairing Subarus. I own 5 different ones now and love learning new things,,, so Thank You and disregard the haters, they're just jealous 😂😂
Ive worked on Subarus since the mid 90's and I have never heard of any real difference between the ra blocks and any other sti blocks of the same era... I'd be very interested in looking at the information about the block material Btw I just found your channel and you have a new subscriber sir!! U seem like a real dude and that's become very rare now days lol And yes ive been preaching about ring gap on the ej engines especially the ej25 but you know how it is ..the internet geniuses are all right about everything even if they have never touched or seen in real life the subject of whatever they are talking about lol Note I was a bit out of the loop here and was thinking about the engines that were in the different versions of RA vehicles produced over the years but now I'm up to speed....kinda lol hey ive been away from the scene for a bit and buried in experimental engines seeing what they will do so ive been a little distracted.....but damn I sure do miss the Subaru community or atleast how they used to be lol
so what you're saying is if you re-ring the stock pistons and make the gap a bit looser it might last longer, good to know as I have a few motors to build and one will be done on a budget.
Old video, I know, but with regards to engine builders' proprietary numbers: I would NEVER buy an engine from anyone who refused to provide me with a printed out documentation of exactly what they set all the clearances to (not a range).
So then could you do a video on the opposite of race engines? Tackle the keys to reliable power and a reliable engine. Maybe make 400whp the benchmark bc I feel most want to hit that range. I think most just like me read from forums that forged internals have a life span of 60k miles min normally. When we think forged internals we hope that the engine can last and be driven well over 100k - 200k. What is the combo to find balance and fun for these engines?
@@stevetunedif you've still got that in the works I'd love your thoughts on that. I'm wanting sub 400hp and have been told to go ra block and rebuilt heads for my ej255 setup but now at minimum I think id want to regap the rings on an ra block. But if taking pistons out, it begs to question why not put forged pistons in if checking ring gap anyway. While you're in there what about doing rods haha. And so on and so on. Is that worth doing for a car that'll never see over said hp?
Scratch that it seems I've found my solution.. Looks like a pre stage 1 street performance build should work nicely for my needs. Hopefully assembled by you!
Awesome video, my stock Forester motor recently cracked a piston with almost 180k miles on it. Will be building it right the first time and videos like this will save me tons of money in the future. I know you don't have to make these videos but you're helping people who need it and it's much appreciated 🤘
There are differences in the service manuals between years. For an example they use different spark plugs for the RA blocks. I believe I saw differences in the ring gaps also. I'll have to verify that tomorrow though.
Great video steve. Someone brought to my attention just the other day with the adm ej20x having a forged crankshaft and connecting rods, but cast aluminium pistons with forged crowns. Which was news to myself.
RA Block is an endurance engine = 6,500 rpm 24 hours @ 149.50 mph = so your a not a mechanic person with a big knowledge of limited learnt stuff = do you really know about rally and subaru history ? better than a ej205 the ej207 has forged crank and rods with a tight balance job .
Thanks a lot for sharing the knowledge - this is the first time someone actually explained ringland failure to me. Would you say power mods are not suggested to those motoros at all since even stock ones have a chance to break? Or there is a relative safe power range it can make? Maybe like 300WHP?
@@Craiggg12345 Thanks for the data point. I feel like 300WHP is probably safe enough but one can always say there is risk in staying away from stock. How many miles with your set up?
Hi Bud, can I still run 264 or 272 cams on single avcs 255 heads when using a ej257 short block? With Companies like IAG that use a 2mm longer rod with a je piston designed to keep the stock cubic inch capacity, would the ej255 heads with single AVCS strugle to clear with this type of block using these types of camshafts. Really appreciate your help
from what i understand, they tried to improve the wrist pin area for some reason. If you compare a non RA sti piston to an RA piston, you'll see the metal frame area that holds the wrist pin in, is larger. That's the only difference I could find, But i did indeed notice the piston is reinforced, just in the wrong spot to fix ringlands lol.
I believe BoxerBaddies did an episode comparing them as well if you'd like to see the difference if you don't just happen to have them lying around. Also after 2019 all sti's were equiped with the RA block i guess? i just learned that recently.
My RA block lasted about 10k miles until low compression cylinder 2. 1.5xtr flex fuel 400whp. Same setup lasted about 30k miles on the stock 2011 ej257 that had 70k when the mods went on.
How much bigger should the clearances for the rod and main bearing clearances be, because I just built my first engine and I used King bearings and my clearances were all either at the limit or slightly above it such as .0008" ( this is off the top of my head but I'm 90% sure it was around this number)
I’m a ra block owner nothing wild I don’t think (flex fuel 1050 injectiors stock vf43 20psi) what would be the limit of it? In your opinion thanks for any advice ❤
The "same old story" is probably (like you say) the rings butting up and causing the ringland to break, not necessarily the ringland breaking from knocking or combustion forces. If you were going through the trouble of putting in an RA block I would pop out the pistons and open up the gap on the compression rings. Nobody ever puts .010" ring gap on a forged piston....... part of why you never see ringland failures on forged pistons.
Ring Gap should be as tight as you can get away with. You determine ring gap size by your total HP goal. Your HP goal can be further deduced by Lbs of air flown through your engine. Engine displacement x RPM = achievable HP... Heat and heat alone is why a ring gap is required. If metal didn't expand with heat, ring gaps would not exist.
I mean isn’t that what he basically said about what determines your ring gap size?? Lmao. Idk what the point of your comment is. You just literally said the same thing he said.
@@peeposadboy I mean he basically didn't because I basically wouldn't have basically made that comment if he basically had.... I basically watched the entire basic video to basically figure that out...
@@peeposadboy Not triggered at all lol. I basically have to break it down in the most basic of terms to explain it to guys. But guys like you who install exhaust and make a video on it then blow up your car and regurgitate anecdotal information or information you heard elsewhere as facts is the root cause of this bad info being spread. The is because you don’t understand the most basic fundamentals, just like this video creator doesn’t even understand heat is the one and only thing that determines ring gap. He mentions boost numerous times as the reason you need to open it up. That’s completely wrong. If it were true you’d make the same HP on the same boost regardless of your turbo or turbo size. Which I hope you all know that isn’t true… It’s a half truth like saying Subarus are American and Japanese cars…. Do we live in a world where we say things are basically true and accept it saying “whelp that’s good enough for me!”? I don’t so I speak up and call out this non factually true information….
Been saying this. The RA block is nothing special at all. You are better off to buy a prebuilt block from IAG, Crawford, BBR, Tanner (Smeedia) and do it right once, then risk blowing it up again.
I would tighten up the main bearing clearance and would set the rod clearance up depending on the goals of the engine I was building but I would always go tight on the mains and I personally had zero problems from them Ive seen alot of people go with the old school thinking and open everything up to a huge clearance and then wondering why they were having a drop in oil pressure at high rpm and high boost pressure but I said if they don't know why that's happening then I'm not going to be the one who tries to tell them.... lol I'm probably just an old asshole tho lol
watching the rest of this vid I also LOL at the people that take the 10 or so mins snap shot of your life in a vid as your whole life. are they for real?!?!?!?
I can also stand up Steve! After 20 years of building EJ:s different levels.. Rally, track, drag.. RA engines are Well know in here Europe. That RA engine is 100% JDM spec engine and thats it! There is no eny special what makes that take over 400hp long time.. Same Oil ring problem as almost every Subaru piston have. Someone have bad mind for truth 😂 Too tight also high level options!
Good meme at 400nm you need to pin or close deck a 2.5 anyways due to the cheese cylinder wall, I'm not surprised that they annihilate ring lands at the boost level as they are designed to rev with the rod to stroke ratio they have not get 30lbs of boost slammed into them just get a 207 ra and God for 300nm at the wheels if your going for more than that with a stock block you either have money to burn or your an idiot, ra blocks have their place but it isn't drag racing or making massive power,
none of the EJ257 are anything special. The EJ207 V10 + is v7,8 and 9 are too. the v10 has double cross drilled crank, thick cylinder walls, good rotating assembly. that 's209' isnt anything special engine wise, the 'forged' pistons they used, i believe didn't work so they reused the regular oem piston
Best thing to do when you blow your EJ is to throw it in the trash and then swap in a FA24. FA24 + STI drivetrain + not having to drive an ugly VB chassis = perfection.
Forged pistons have their own problems. The stock hypereutectic pistons are a better, more superior application for those who want mild hp builds and use these as daily drivers. For "race" engines it absolutely makes sense to run forged pistons, but the information you're providing here is misleading. You can't just take a failed motor and show the stock pistons and say it's shit. I would blame the tune, improper maintenance, and improper build for the application for this type ra engine. The Ra block is still an upgrade over the OEM short block, and is a much better application for a majority of Subaru owners.
The only advantage I have found over the years with a stock piston vs a forged piston in a daily driver is the stock pistons are quieter other than that there are ZERO advantages worth noting in running a stock piston over a properly built forged piston setup, properly built and setup forged piston engines have been proven to take more abuse and take it over a much longer period of time, I have many forged engines I’ve built with 100k+ miles on the street never skip a beat , now compare that to a stock piston engine that I see failure after failure even at stock power levels I just have to disagree with you, 90% of Subaru owners beat the hell out of these cars and the stock piston has proven it can’t last over the long run when compared to forged over and over again, tuning can only go so far , ultimately there are far too many variables on a street driven car to say a stock piston won’t crack when driven hard or making a ton of power , one wrong move like poor gas or a knock event from a hot day and it’s done, the RA piston is slightly different but not in the ways it really needs to be , the failures still look the same over the past decade, I strive to provide information backed by my years of experience on this channel, I’m sorry if you find this misleading but this video is all based on my experience.
The biggest thing about you and your channel Steve is all your videos are made to inform people and have so much information. From when you tuned cars you broke down everything the best you could to show what steps you take when tuning a car. When you had issues with the cars you told us about they and how to prevent it from happening. Thank you for always having our backs.
This is why I made this channel!
Thank you for the break down of what goes into building engines. Learned a lot!
People rather believe some kid tuned by someone with only 500 miles on a RA block vs someone’s who’s been in the game and worked on the engines forever
Great video Steve. Touched all the points I explain when I build motors for people.
Check out the metallurgic and hardness tests I posted on IWSTI comparing RA and older STI pistons. RA and older STI pistons are the same.
The results were so similar, they told me the pistons could have come from the same batch. They were not from the same batch, but they were making a point. The composition of both pistons is the same.
There seems to be a lot of contradictory information out about the pistons, in the end they are still breaking in the same way so it doesn’t matter at the end of the day , when I put them side by side I couldn’t really tell the difference myself so I tend to agree with you , only thing I really notice in the block itself looks “nicer”
@@stevetuned I didn’t have grain structure tested as you mentioned. But in the end, it’s a cast piston. Not surprised you see the same issued with the RA’s. Great to see you posting on youtube again.
Always helpful to hear from people with expertise on this.
Thanks for sharing your years of wisdom with us…and yes, we look forward to your videos!
Thanks Steve for teaching us something. I haven’t learned this much from a you tube video in a long time. I hope other you tubers see this and take note.
As an amateur tuner, I always wanted to see more laptop action in your videos. Maybe it's not info you want to share, but it would be cool to see a start-to-finish tune of cookie-cutter 400whp STI or something, maybe with MAF/SD hybrid or Open Source tuning, etc. There just isn't much info out there other than maybe HP Academy.
Because you should just blow the EJ and swap in a FA24 lmao.
@@peeposadboy ej do push 1,000 ho = no fa = fart action can do that !
Continue to bring info. You are a well knowledgeable person. I definitely respect your knowledge and experience. Don't feel discouraged by negative people.
Super informative video, thank you.
I'm 55 years old and my midlife crisis is buying and repairing Subarus. I own 5 different ones now and love learning new things,,, so Thank You and disregard the haters, they're just jealous 😂😂
Ive worked on Subarus since the mid 90's and I have never heard of any real difference between the ra blocks and any other sti blocks of the same era... I'd be very interested in looking at the information about the block material
Btw I just found your channel and you have a new subscriber sir!! U seem like a real dude and that's become very rare now days lol
And yes ive been preaching about ring gap on the ej engines especially the ej25 but you know how it is ..the internet geniuses are all right about everything even if they have never touched or seen in real life the subject of whatever they are talking about lol
Note I was a bit out of the loop here and was thinking about the engines that were in the different versions of RA vehicles produced over the years but now I'm up to speed....kinda lol hey ive been away from the scene for a bit and buried in experimental engines seeing what they will do so ive been a little distracted.....but damn I sure do miss the Subaru community or atleast how they used to be lol
so what you're saying is if you re-ring the stock pistons and make the gap a bit looser it might last longer, good to know as I have a few motors to build and one will be done on a budget.
Pretty much yes.
Thank you for taking the time to make videos and share knowledge , I really appreciate it!😊👍🏼👍🏼🚀🏎
I've always wondered if the actual ring gap was as tight as the insanely tight factory spec. Good to see that, yep it is.
not on forged pistons - hyperutectic tight gaps and less heat affected ! forged piston slap !
@@ronnieboucherthecrystalcraftsm you're thinking of piston to wall clearance, not ring gap.
Hope to see the car at woodburn next weekend! Best of luck!
I wouldnt even acknowledge the haters tbh :D
So glad Steve is back posting again.
Old video, I know, but with regards to engine builders' proprietary numbers: I would NEVER buy an engine from anyone who refused to provide me with a printed out documentation of exactly what they set all the clearances to (not a range).
I love the information your giving out to the general public! I love the break down 😉 I love knowledge/transparency in all your videos bro 😁
not everyone wants a drag racer subaru !
I SAVED THIS VIDEO AND SUB'D. I HOPE YOU START MAKING MORE VIDEOS AND ALSO HOPEFULLY ADDRESS YOUR OPINION ON THE FA24 TURBO ENGINES.
I have plans to do just that!
At the power plant the rule of thumb on journal bearing is 1-1.5 thousands clearance per inch of shaft size. Factory is very tight.
Great video man! Clearing up a lot of bs. I appreciate your content mate.
Share the numbers!
Wow, amazing video! The dreaded ringland failure makes sense now!! Definitely going with A built engine! 😊
So then could you do a video on the opposite of race engines? Tackle the keys to reliable power and a reliable engine. Maybe make 400whp the benchmark bc I feel most want to hit that range. I think most just like me read from forums that forged internals have a life span of 60k miles min normally. When we think forged internals we hope that the engine can last and be driven well over 100k - 200k. What is the combo to find balance and fun for these engines?
I’m working on a video to address this soon!
@@stevetunedif you've still got that in the works I'd love your thoughts on that. I'm wanting sub 400hp and have been told to go ra block and rebuilt heads for my ej255 setup but now at minimum I think id want to regap the rings on an ra block. But if taking pistons out, it begs to question why not put forged pistons in if checking ring gap anyway. While you're in there what about doing rods haha. And so on and so on. Is that worth doing for a car that'll never see over said hp?
Scratch that it seems I've found my solution.. Looks like a pre stage 1 street performance build should work nicely for my needs. Hopefully assembled by you!
great to see vids from you man
Very good explanation, thanks for breaking this down for us
Great video as always Steve. Please keep them coming please.
Thanks for all the knowledge/transparency in all your videos bro🤙
Awesome video, my stock Forester motor recently cracked a piston with almost 180k miles on it. Will be building it right the first time and videos like this will save me tons of money in the future. I know you don't have to make these videos but you're helping people who need it and it's much appreciated 🤘
There are differences in the service manuals between years. For an example they use different spark plugs for the RA blocks. I believe I saw differences in the ring gaps also. I'll have to verify that tomorrow though.
Great video steve. Someone brought to my attention just the other day with the adm ej20x having a forged crankshaft and connecting rods, but cast aluminium pistons with forged crowns. Which was news to myself.
Wypall towels are my favorite for engine builds..
They are handy
RA Block is an endurance engine = 6,500 rpm 24 hours @ 149.50 mph = so your a not a mechanic person with a big knowledge of limited learnt stuff = do you really know about rally and subaru history ? better than a ej205 the ej207 has forged crank and rods with a tight balance job .
I guess you could open the block and regap the rings but at that point just forge the internals
What awesome episode by stevetune and i don't owned Subaru and i have 2006 evo 9 still loves Subaru
Awesome info Steve appreciate it dude 👌🏼
Thank you Steve! Skipping the RA, going straight to Rallispec.
What a great video..thanks brother
Thanks a lot for sharing the knowledge - this is the first time someone actually explained ringland failure to me. Would you say power mods are not suggested to those motoros at all since even stock ones have a chance to break? Or there is a relative safe power range it can make? Maybe like 300WHP?
I’m on a 2015 STI block making 360whp with a Cobb 20g turbo, equal headers and fuel upgrades.
@@Craiggg12345 Thanks for the data point. I feel like 300WHP is probably safe enough but one can always say there is risk in staying away from stock. How many miles with your set up?
Dude you are my favorite your famous in my eyes I wold love to have my car built by you it would be a honor
As usual you're right!
thank you sir, all the way from south africa
Hi Bud, can I still run 264 or 272 cams on single avcs 255 heads when using a ej257 short block?
With Companies like IAG that use a 2mm longer rod with a je piston designed to keep the stock cubic inch capacity, would the ej255 heads with single AVCS strugle to clear with this type of block using these types of camshafts.
Really appreciate your help
I want to explain wish turbo is better twinscroll or single scroll am running twinscroll right now wish spools up fast on my sti
from what i understand, they tried to improve the wrist pin area for some reason.
If you compare a non RA sti piston to an RA piston, you'll see the metal frame area
that holds the wrist pin in, is larger. That's the only difference I could find,
But i did indeed notice the piston is reinforced, just in the wrong spot to fix ringlands lol.
I believe BoxerBaddies did an episode comparing them as well if you'd like to see the difference if you don't just happen to have them lying around.
Also after 2019 all sti's were equiped with the RA block i guess? i just learned that recently.
Subaru just superceeds old part numbers , common the parts world and further cements my point.
My RA block lasted about 10k miles until low compression cylinder 2. 1.5xtr flex fuel 400whp. Same setup lasted about 30k miles on the stock 2011 ej257 that had 70k when the mods went on.
Good ole stock motor lottery at play.
its too bad you cant look up your vin and find clearances they measured logged somewhere.
Literally in fb group today saw a guy saying the ra can do 7-800 😂 I wouldn't have even noticed til I saw your last video.
It can, hell BBR made 1,000 whp on stock ra engine. It just won't last very long.
How much power does an RA engine can handle safely if only down pipe, fuel pump with injectors and intake are upgraded?
Your fine where you are. That combo should make a true 300-310 whp 330-340 tq. On pump ida say safe limit is 350, on e I’d say 400.
How much bigger should the clearances for the rod and main bearing clearances be, because I just built my first engine and I used King bearings and my clearances were all either at the limit or slightly above it such as .0008" ( this is off the top of my head but I'm 90% sure it was around this number)
I’m a ra block owner nothing wild I don’t think (flex fuel 1050 injectiors stock vf43 20psi) what would be the limit of it? In your opinion thanks for any advice ❤
I would say your at the safe limit with your current setup unless something bad happens like a large detonation event.
The "same old story" is probably (like you say) the rings butting up and causing the ringland to break, not necessarily the ringland breaking from knocking or combustion forces. If you were going through the trouble of putting in an RA block I would pop out the pistons and open up the gap on the compression rings. Nobody ever puts .010" ring gap on a forged piston....... part of why you never see ringland failures on forged pistons.
But These Type RA pistons are machine cast alloy not forged.
So what do you like your bearings at on mains and so on? Let's say on a 400 hp power
So for 1100hp what block should I go with? I have a built ej25 at 800hp but want to go higher with not allot of problems
how is that boomba TB? I always wondered as I don't see many people with it..
The boomba throttle body is best installed on race cars making 1000whp or more , until then I prefer the drivability of the stock throttle body.
@@stevetuned and that would be why i don’t see it often ahaha thanks for the reply!
An excellent breakdown
hey steve, where is your shop located?
Portland , OR
@@stevetuned too far from me, im in NY.
Ring Gap should be as tight as you can get away with. You determine ring gap size by your total HP goal. Your HP goal can be further deduced by Lbs of air flown through your engine. Engine displacement x RPM = achievable HP... Heat and heat alone is why a ring gap is required. If metal didn't expand with heat, ring gaps would not exist.
I mean isn’t that what he basically said about what determines your ring gap size?? Lmao. Idk what the point of your comment is. You just literally said the same thing he said.
@@peeposadboy I mean he basically didn't because I basically wouldn't have basically made that comment if he basically had.... I basically watched the entire basic video to basically figure that out...
I think I basically covered this in the video….
@@JaegerWrenching that’s a lot of basically’s. Why you so triggered over the word basically
@@peeposadboy Not triggered at all lol. I basically have to break it down in the most basic of terms to explain it to guys. But guys like you who install exhaust and make a video on it then blow up your car and regurgitate anecdotal information or information you heard elsewhere as facts is the root cause of this bad info being spread. The is because you don’t understand the most basic fundamentals, just like this video creator doesn’t even understand heat is the one and only thing that determines ring gap. He mentions boost numerous times as the reason you need to open it up. That’s completely wrong. If it were true you’d make the same HP on the same boost regardless of your turbo or turbo size. Which I hope you all know that isn’t true… It’s a half truth like saying Subarus are American and Japanese cars…. Do we live in a world where we say things are basically true and accept it saying “whelp that’s good enough for me!”? I don’t so I speak up and call out this non factually true information….
That last video just kind of bolstered what I have been telling dudes for a long time.
❤
Been saying this. The RA block is nothing special at all.
You are better off to buy a prebuilt block from IAG, Crawford, BBR, Tanner (Smeedia) and do it right once, then risk blowing it up again.
I would tighten up the main bearing clearance and would set the rod clearance up depending on the goals of the engine I was building but I would always go tight on the mains and I personally had zero problems from them
Ive seen alot of people go with the old school thinking and open everything up to a huge clearance and then wondering why they were having a drop in oil pressure at high rpm and high boost pressure but I said if they don't know why that's happening then I'm not going to be the one who tries to tell them.... lol I'm probably just an old asshole tho lol
watching the rest of this vid I also LOL at the people that take the 10 or so mins snap shot of your life in a vid as your whole life. are they for real?!?!?!?
I can also stand up Steve!
After 20 years of building EJ:s different levels.. Rally, track, drag.. RA engines are Well know in here Europe.
That RA engine is 100% JDM spec engine and thats it!
There is no eny special what makes that take over 400hp long time.. Same Oil ring problem as almost every Subaru piston have. Someone have bad mind for truth 😂
Too tight also high level options!
I won't to see scarlet running again
Good meme at 400nm you need to pin or close deck a 2.5 anyways due to the cheese cylinder wall, I'm not surprised that they annihilate ring lands at the boost level as they are designed to rev with the rod to stroke ratio they have not get 30lbs of boost slammed into them just get a 207 ra and God for 300nm at the wheels if your going for more than that with a stock block you either have money to burn or your an idiot, ra blocks have their place but it isn't drag racing or making massive power,
none of the EJ257 are anything special.
The EJ207 V10 + is
v7,8 and 9 are too.
the v10 has double cross drilled crank, thick cylinder walls, good rotating assembly.
that 's209' isnt anything special engine wise, the 'forged' pistons they used, i believe didn't work so they reused the regular oem piston
rs closed block with ra crank better
😂
Best thing to do when you blow your EJ is to throw it in the trash and then swap in a FA24. FA24 + STI drivetrain + not having to drive an ugly VB chassis = perfection.
Forged pistons have their own problems. The stock hypereutectic pistons are a better, more superior application for those who want mild hp builds and use these as daily drivers. For "race" engines it absolutely makes sense to run forged pistons, but the information you're providing here is misleading. You can't just take a failed motor and show the stock pistons and say it's shit. I would blame the tune, improper maintenance, and improper build for the application for this type ra engine. The Ra block is still an upgrade over the OEM short block, and is a much better application for a majority of Subaru owners.
The only advantage I have found over the years with a stock piston vs a forged piston in a daily driver is the stock pistons are quieter other than that there are ZERO advantages worth noting in running a stock piston over a properly built forged piston setup, properly built and setup forged piston engines have been proven to take more abuse and take it over a much longer period of time, I have many forged engines I’ve built with 100k+ miles on the street never skip a beat , now compare that to a stock piston engine that I see failure after failure even at stock power levels I just have to disagree with you, 90% of Subaru owners beat the hell out of these cars and the stock piston has proven it can’t last over the long run when compared to forged over and over again, tuning can only go so far , ultimately there are far too many variables on a street driven car to say a stock piston won’t crack when driven hard or making a ton of power , one wrong move like poor gas or a knock event from a hot day and it’s done, the RA piston is slightly different but not in the ways it really needs to be , the failures still look the same over the past decade, I strive to provide information backed by my years of experience on this channel, I’m sorry if you find this misleading but this video is all based on my experience.
Goad to see you again bud