@@motoiq Is it not true that the fa24 has notably thicker rods and cylinder walls than the fa20? I really appreciate your content. Oh, I just saw the part where you said you hadn't gotten one in yet.
@motoiq I thought the beehive valve springs were better? Rods a little bigger? Seems like doing the Tomei gears for the oil pump is wise regardless on an FA2X?
The 24 is about the same, maybe the rods are a little stronger, the bore is bigger, the engine on the stand is a FA24. It's not like the FA20 rods are weak, I think the FA can make the boost at low RPM and stresses them out. They don't bend until higher power levels are reached, like 350 lb/ft of torque, over 400 hp, a good tuner can manage your boost to keep you in the safe zone.
I wanna say that, for me, this is the perfect level of detail. Not way over my head, not too dumbed down. "Accessible", I think they call it. I have a FB and its *still* entertaining.
FA20 WRX owner and yes the wave of torque from 2k to 4,5k is massive. Don't have to ring them out to have fun. As street car and snow drfter having all this torque down low makes them super enjoyable
The BEST engine discussion I've seen. Not boring for one second, this presenter really knows his stuff and spoke so clearly with minimal "ums" or wasted words. Seriously, what a splendid use of my time. I learned so much in these 30 minutes, I wish every salesperson at Subaru would show this video to prospective buyers to show them how great the new BRZ/WRX engines are. I have an FA24 WRX and got protuned to 315 hp and it feels incredible. I, and my EJ WRX buddies, all agree the new engine just feels so good.
For reference: My FBO (intake, DP, 93 tune) 2014 EJ257 STI makes about identical power as my buddies 2018 FA20 WRX (Intake, DP, 93 Tune, FMIC) - Although I have him on the very top end - 125+mph ---These FA20's and FA24's are definitely on my list as my next daily!
In any other conversation, this gentleman would sound like a surfer dude, but it’s awesome to listen to him talk about Subaru engines, where he appears to be a savant
Your videos are the greatest. There's nothing like learning from someone who truly knows what they're talking about. I'm running my fa24dit WRX at Stage 2 (Cobb package), ~300whp and ~340wtq feels fantastic. Motor is so smooth. The rods worry me at 340tq, but I think they're beefier than fa20dit's. So much smack talked on Subarus but 5 star safety rating, 4 adults fit inside, awd for MN winter, 6 speed manual, and ~400tq at crank for $32k new... come on.
I'm in the "small" camp of WRX owners who don't plan on making very much more than stock power ever. I bought mine new in '21 and won't be doing any tune-required power mods until after the powertrain warranty is gone, even then I'm looking for around 300 HP only. I just want a fun, reliable daily and that's it. I've improved the driving performance massively just through suspension, brakes and shifting mods. That said, a large factor in getting the WRX over the STi was the differences between the EJ and FA. Having dealt first hand with EJs and their weaknesses I knew I wanted the changes the FA brought.
I have a 21' limited that's around 300 with a sway bar kit and some chassis bracing, plus Grimspeed manifold. Voided warranty at about 5k, but no issues so far, and car is infinitely more fun to drive! Spool-up happens way quicker now, so pulling out of hairpins is one of the car's most gratifying features. This is a great video; seems like if Subaru had chosen to produce more STIs, the FA24 would have been the preferred power-plant.
Im running my 19 stock. Just braces and exhaust and some wider wheels and performance tires and is quick enough not for racing but taking it on windy roads and in the wet.
I boguht a spt 2024 WRX. As a daily it exceeded my expectations. I really love this thing. For tuning I might get a 2020 or 2021 EJ and let a reputable tuner build it right.
27:46 I wonder how effective the kit that Subaru sells is for removing the carbon. This kit is basically a cleaner that is put through the intake - I had planned on doing this treatment at 50,000 miles.
Same here, mostly built-ons and dynoed to 325 whp and 335 torque easily! I was told only a stage 3 STi makes a little more torque! Has been lots of fun!
I really enjoy watching these videos. This guy has such an effortless way of talking & sharing his knowledge, which is extensive. Good to watch no fuss, no clip bait,all style & no substance videos. 👍
My stock FA20DIT had a failed rod bearing at 54k. Always maintained and babied cause I bought it brand new. This helps me understand what might have gone wrong a lot more than how the dealer has explained things. Thank you for the great in depth knowledge.
Thank you for shinning lights at the FA family Mike! Knowing that FA2xDIT have fitted in a scavenge pump from the factory turbo, such that we don't usually see lateral G oil starvation events from the WRX, however can you please shine lights at the reason on why FA2xD (twins' engines) are particularly proned to lateral G oil starvation events? And what are some of the aftermarket solution that the twins can combat this without using accumulator?
I think it's oil slosh or oil consumption and people not paying attention to the oil level at the track. It is interesting that the GR86 cup car engines we have worked on have had bearings in great shape and those are legit race cars with high level drivers and sticky tires. I think running an AOS, the IAG baffle and pickup and if you are extra paranoid, the Killer B baffle that prevents oil from sloshing into the front cover area should stop it. Also any car needs to have it's oil checked and kept on the full mark when being driven on the track. You need to check every session!
@motoiq Mike I wish I can agree to that, running greddy baffle (basically timing cover block off + horizontal baffle) + 1 qrt overfill still didn't help some of my oil starvation events, with the fa24d
@@motoiq Like this video I clipped, i was running 6.5 qrts total oil with a greddy baffle. ua-cam.com/users/clipUgkx7wXXgkw2NjMS0ZJR2B0jT9yGsplDo-Pm?si=HZdB7D-u9z8Cvfa_
@Adam-ub9nu there was supposed to be a link that I showed. But it's probably under reviewed. Yes the car was baffled and 1 qrt overfilled. There will be at least 1 qrt suspended within the engine when it's running, I checked that when the engine is at idle. Dipstick went from full mark to min mark, after the engine turned over.
How alone I felt in 1998, with an '86 EJ-82 Turbo... bored and sleeved to 95mm making it a 2L from a 1.8L... even had the oil pump rotor sleeved so it wouldn't wear the block... JE pistons, crower cams... before Subaru's were cool I guess 😃
@AntilleanConfederation I run 5w30 on my 22 wrx and highly recommend it. Slightly less efficient, but you don't have to worry about engine wear at Temps over 230° unlike 0w20
Having gone from a 2020 WRX to a 2018 STI because it seemed like a natural progression, I have no issues or hesitation saying that I hands down prefer the FA from my previous WRX over the EJ in my STI. None. I put 36,000 miles on the WRX and have now put 17,000 on the STI since buying it. I am not joking when I say the first time I got the full taste of a proper launch in the STI, I was as hooked as those tires were. But that feeling is very out shined by the way the engine behaves the rest of the time, I am constantly on edge and babying it afraid it is going to disassemble itself. With every single revolution it feels like it wants to spread itself all over the highway, I signed up for AAA thirty years early because of it to be honest. The only disappointment I could possibly express about the WRX was the open diffs in the front and rear, I couldn't care less about that DCCD nonsense. I have no doubt that if the opportunity to pick up a < 2022 WRX Premium 6MT with the "Performance Package" presented itself I would be calling the seller right away. Then I'd be following that call up with a search for an STI transmission swap.
Coming from 141k and only having oil leaks from the valve covers. You dont need to baby it lol i launched this thing more than enoght and rans really good.
@@Menace_stiDriving it around on the highway reminds me of taking my Dad's old F250 up to 70mph, it feels rung out and ready to 'splode. Plus IDK how the previous guy treated it for the first part of it's life.
Mike, is it true that FA is like 120lb + heavier than EJ? Looks like FA still has the dog leg exhaust too. Love this series it’s like a Masterclass with Mike! ❤
Good information. A couple notes, though: while timing chains may be designed as lifetime fit, the history of modern cars necessitating massive timing chain system service after 100k miles or so due to component failure means that's not always the case. EJs do have a block oil vapor separator, at the back of the engine on the right side. They tend to leak and cause people to confuse leaky oil vapor separator covers for leaking rear main seals. SOHC phase II EJs (generally post-1997) also use roller rockers. I never cared for shim over/under bucket valves so the FA is a welcome improvement.
I work at a Subaru dealer and they've honestly been great. They were selling Ascents for about 3 years before we had a head off any of them, and that's in a busy 10 bay shop.
@@JohnUnit yeah I had a 2021 Ascent Touring. Other than the transmission being a turd off the line and in general and the low power it had compared to other vehicles in the same segment I couldn’t keep it forever. I started getting transmission slip at 10k miles. Driving down i29 in a headwind. Speed limit is 80mph I was doing 85mph and the headwind was 20-40mph. I noticed my speed was staying the same but my rpm’s were going up and down.
Excellent presentation - no superfluous wordy crap and just the data and reasoning behind design differences. Old Navy nukes such as me appreciate this.
Thanks for the great video! I have two cars with EJs, myself. Both are white. I have a 2004 sti and a 2010 sti. The 2004 is my built one, the 2010 is my daily. The 2004 has had about 619 whp (used to be 602 whp before I got the killer b holy headers max and re-tuned) at 35 psi for about 25k kms now. I got the closed deck short block from IAG. The 2010 has a rebuilt motor with proper pistons and all the oiling safety mods. Only power mods are a 3" catted TBE and a tune. It's only at 263 whp at 17 psi. It could have made more, but I had no idea the 2010's ecu can hold whole multiple tunes before I bought it. My wife doesn't like the feeling of acceleration, so I asked my tuner to keep it as low as possible for my daily. Kind of the opposite most ask for. He assumed I knew about the multiple tune thing. I might get it tuned for 19-21 psi eventually, or whatever the oem turbo can do.
I loved my FA20, it was FBO E60 and lasted 3 years till I got rod knock. So your point about the bearings makes sense. I moved on to a built STi and I love this car way more. FA is still cool though.
Part of it may be that fewer are tuned, but we see very few blown FA at my dealer. Mostly just rod knock on cars that are heavily tuned, or modified with no tune. Also carbon buildup, but thats rare on cars driven hard. No head gaskets, no oil burning. I just wish they came with unequal length headers for that classic sound.
@@izzy9022 flow tends to pull buildup off, and enough heat seems to burn it off. Question the science but it's a pattern Subaru techs and head office have noticed over the years.
@@jamesgeorge4874 No. Eutectic and eutectoid terms are applicable to any alloys, referring to phase transformations and lowest melting points. For steel, check the Fe-Fe3C phase diagram and find the eutectoid point. I made a mistake of typing steel in my comment above without specifying the steel components of the pistons, as the Subaru engines blocks are made of aluminium alloys,
@@emel60 Sure, but this engine is predominantly aluminum. And the creator acknowledged it already. It is common to use hypereutectic alloy pistons, because they are strong, and hard, but they exhibit lower expansion characteristics than eutectic pistons, allowing tighter tolerances, and lower emissions.
It is pretty cool to see how many of the issues that have come up over the last 20+ years with the ej series motors have been addressed with the FA. Definitely not perfect but they have definitely started taking steps in the right direction.
Two issues with the FA that I've seen while working at a Subaru specialist shop that weren't mentioned... 1) Cam Case Seals - The cases that hold the cams in, the RTV fails and leaks around 100k miles on all variants of the FA/FB engines. Costs about as much as a timing job on an EJ to fix too due to the labor. 2) Injector seals blow out - Not sure about the new FA24, but the FA20DIT certainly blew out Injector seals at times. This could damage the motor, but not usually. Not a huge issue, but it happens.
1. I forgot to talk about that, my bad. 2. The newer engines don't have that problem and the ones that have the bad parts probably had them fail and get fixed by now.
Nah as a 140k mi EJ owner its a better motor than the FA20. The FA20 only exists because Subaru needed to build a motor for their new global platform. 10.6:1 compression ratio makes zero sense for a turbo car. DI only even more so... @volatilegaming5852
Not with everything, EJ sump plugs last forever. The FA type uses a small 14mm head that gives problems. The FA and FB engines have heaps of oil leaks from the timing chain cases.
I have a 2017 86 with a FA 2.0L. I’m using 0w20 recommended viscosity oil made by Valvoline. Thinking of switching to signature series Amsoil instead. Do you think that is a good choice or should I just stay with valvoline gold 0w20?
@@motoiq thanks for the suggestion but it’s mostly a once in awhile weekend car or emergency ride when we need it. It’s 7 years old and only has 7,900 miles
@@motoiq interesing, would it be like that with a turbo fa20 or fa24 as well? Just curious if it's worth the money to build an EJ or to try to swap to the newer engines
I would build the EJ as that engine is pretty developed. It's probably cheaper to fully build an EJ than sort out an FA and the electronics, then the FA would only be stock.
good info, but might want to revise statements around the valve lash adjustment. FAs need lash adjustment as frequently as EJs and due to rocker design, there are bigger inconsistencies in clearance over time.
Your only replacing chains if they are stretched, that only happens if your late on oil changes with time, well maintained chain driven engines can last a long time
Didn't know the FA difference between SUB and TOY's DI only and dual injection, would definitely affect which one I'd buy. I think walnut blasting your engine every 50-80k is a bigger deal/hassle than an EJ timing belt every 100k/10yrs (I've done it twice on mine).
Timing chains are more sensitive to oil quality and viscosity, so yes a timing chain requires less service, but long oil change intervals and poor quality oil will take its toll.
Thanks for showing the various differences between the EJ and FA engines. I didn't know how many ways the bottom end was beefed up. I knew about the timing chain. That was the #1 reason I fell in love. I hate timing belts with a passion. I like the roller hydraulic followers. I like that you mentioned the crank overlap. When I saw Subaru cranks for the first time, I couldn't imagine how they would be durable because the counterweights were so thin. I was used to thinking about inline engines. I find it interesting that when the 4G63T was replaced by the 4B11T, Mitsubishi removed the hydraulic finger followers and used solid buckets. Whenever I read about people adjusting valves on Subarus, usually they just leave it until the heads have to be rebuilt. Goodson makes a tool that can shorten the foot of the lifter bucket. The reason some engines aren't priority main is because of hydraulic lash adjusters. In the old OHV engines with hydraulic flat lifters, that system was in use, otherwise the engine would make many annoying noises after startup. That oil galley enlargement thing made me think about the Buick big block. Many people found that the oil system isn't good enough when getting more power. The guys reshape the oil pump to block interface to maximize flow. It helps make the Buick last. That's not to say it is a perfect fix.
i've had a wild hare up my ass to put an FA24DiT into my 15 STI. Not much info out there yet to confidently do it yet. I read at one point subaru already had a production ready STI version of this engine, but axed it along with the new STI :(
@@motoiq The electronics are the biggest hoop to jump. Making the DCCD, Traction control, and all things 4WD has really only been managed by a piggy back Cobb system on a stock ECU. I really dont think there is a decent standalone system available currently besides "full race car stuff" to achieve something like this and keep regular vehicle functionality. idk, i'd give my car up for science to make it work though.
Technically every engine is "detuned" from the factory. Manufacturers will always pick reliability over performance especially for economy cars. When you turn up performance on a stock engine you are turning down reliability. They have limitation on the components just like the EJ and FA20 does.
Former 400+hp fa20 owner, now in a 400+hp fa24. I much prefer the vb over the va wrx. I’m on different turbos for each so it’s not quite and apples to apples comparison (BL54x va vs g30-770 vb). But man. The VB is just so much fun to drive. Also, thanks for the vid comparison! One day I’ll pick up an EJ sti 😍
I don't know about the FA engines, but in the EJ world there are quite a few different types (EJ20, EJ25, EJ20 W20C, ...). Performance wise, I would think the EJ like the W20C (very thick cylinder walls) should be a better base than the FAXX. Also, the EJ207 EDM version uses forged pistons from the factory, which is also a good performance feature. As far as I know, as of 2006 there are only hyper-cast pistons on all markets available, which are not as strong as the forged ones.
@@motoiq Thank for your response! I'm at about 430-450 hp (1.8 bar mamba GTX3076 with a .64 A/R turbine housing, stock tm intercooler) for 8 years now (on my YT channel the videos are still old from my first setup with about 380 hp with an china TD05-20G 1.6 bar for other 4 years) all with the stock EJ207 and 98 Oct fuel :D But I have to say that I'm not using it on a track, only street but still I push the car really often nearly every weekend. My plan is to buy the precision turbo what you recommended in your other video to get over 500 hp with a stock location turbo and hopefully less turbo lag. I just want to try more with the stock engine. When it explodes I will come back to you😂
I've had my 86 at 400whp for roughly 35K KMs and haven't had any issues. Engine has never been opened so all internals are factory. Last time I had the car in for work i had a compression and leakdown test done, results were surprisingly good. I was not expecting this engine to last at all, but it has not skipped a beat. Trans oil did show some signs of wear when it was last replaced, but it feels exactly how it did when i drove it off the showroom floor. I never knew about the oiling issue on the mains. If i ever bend a rod and have to open the engine, ill be looking into the modifications you suggested to ease the restrictions at least. Thanks.
I have a Scion FR-S with 160K miles and would like to add a turbocharger to it. It runs flawlessly but I had seen videos of FA20s splitting in half because of excessive boost. Everything inside is stock; just added a cold air kit and a cat back exhaust.
This, although I will say that if you do track days, 400 hp and turbo torque will shit the transmission really fast. In as little as one session if you are a good aggressive driver.
Probably an odd question/request but what's your opinion on the old Toyota 2AZ-FE engines? They were used a bunch during the Scion era and in Formula D in various forced induction forms so I'm curious if you have any info or experience with them
I’m an old EJ guy with my bug eye on a EJ257. But last year a got an RB power. Man I’m excited to see what this engine can do! I had a bad experience with the FA turbo. The N/A FA did great for me, but the turbo, sadly was a bad experience. With the Skyline and the RB26 it’s a new engine experience for me, I like what I got so far over the FA, but the built EJ is one of the best engines I’ve had tuned. I can tell the RB is superior tho! Thanks for the content!
Yes it is, the heat and oil feed in early models especially are limiting factors too. We are building the bottom end. And upgrading the oil system along with cooling. I did manage to get the N1 block from a R34 so a lot of the stuff was corrected thru the years but still it’s an engine. #6 cylinder is susceptible to heat issues. I have already encountered that issue. I cooked a spark plug. I’m learning the engine far more now that I own the car. I’m enjoying the experience.
@motoiq sorry for the late reply, I actually have the R34 N1 with N1 manifolds and turbo. I have the millennium jade valve covers, with the getrag 6 spd XMSN. Being a later engine I’m assuming I have a later pump. But we are nonetheless doing a bottom end 2.8l rebuild and a top end vcam swap for newer and known components being I have zero service records for the car. Plan is to be on the floor at SEMA and to track the car after that. This car is my daily and does perform well with everyday driving and I do road trips to other states for shows when I’m available. Thanks for the replies. I do really appreciate it and I love watching your videos and listening to your knowledge of engines. Hopefully, I can meet you out there someday. I reside in Arizona.
Excited to see more fa20dit content! Would love to know more about making power! Im hyyyyype! Love my VA WRX! Hearing about how to helped the oiling issue was huge! Hopfully that help me not spin a baring!
i would like a better internal analysis of the FA24 and the FA24 DIT if you get the chance. unfortunate the new wrx is butt ass ugly but it looks like a really good improvement
@@motoiq I would assume the basic design is very similar. Thank you for answering! I can only find a few things about the oil pickup and the small changes made for oil moving under g load in the head design
Still prefer the EJ25 over the FA20. I don't know if its the combustion chamber, the fact that its Subaru's first real attempt with DI or what, but it's really finicky on pump gasoline. That said, the FA24 seems to fix all these issues and is a really great engine from what we've seen so far. Power potential is through the roof, the combustion chamber seems much "softer" when it comes to tuning with crappy CA91 gas, and it's just a really enjoyable engine to work with.
Did you know that their is a difference in the DI flow path and pre-chamber between the FA20F and the FA20DIT? just noticed that, the FA20F splits the injected fuel in two and the DIT goes straight into the pre chamber.
watching knock and dam on my accessport for my 18WRX gives me horrible anxiety. it's never clear to me what i should and shouldn't be worried about and people constantly say bad gas but i've tried multiple places with similar results. on the stock tune it would constantly cut timing and "knock" even on a the highest octane all that being said i'm at 70k or so and have not had my carbon cleaned and have no idea how much is built up so there's that too.
@@LunasLostLove The stock tune is basically designed to keep pushing the edge of knock for maximum economy. Proper aftermarket tunes seek to find the ideal timing level for the fuel you run and limit the overall adaptability. Even then, seeing -1 to -2 degrees of knock retard periodically, especially at light throttle, isn't unusual on an FA20.
Thank for the extremely informative information you've provided on the FA20 engine. Do you think a set of restrictors in the oilways that feed the heads would help to prioritize the oiling to the crankshaft and rod bearings ? Another thought is to make a spacer to lower the oil pan 25 mm, extend the pickup and provide oil control at the bottom for the oil pickup and what's you thoughts on this?
There is a post in the FT86Club forum talked about putting a restrictor at the heads' oil passage inlet, so more oil can flow into the block. But idk how legit is that solution, since our AVC needs oil flow from the heads.
The engine has better oil control by an order of magnitude. I think restricting the top end oil might help but since this engine has HLA's it could be an expensive experiment.
I had one of those in an ‘05 OBS. Great little car, was loads of fun and it’d go absolutely anywhere, through anything, all while carrying a enormous amount of cargo.
I will also say the Subaru dealer process for carbon cleaning doesn't need the intake pulled, and even doing 2-3 rounds of it will still be cheaper than anything where you re/re the intake. We have good results with it, even when it's bad enough that the car is throwing a check engine light. That's more common on the softly driven Forester XT anyway. Most WRX guys give it an 'italian tuneup' and blow/burn the carbon out daily anyway.
Most likely the FA pump cover bore is smaller in order to create back pressure for the oil pump this will help with the ability of the pump to self prime and since the pump is a positive displacement pump it will not really affect the flow as much but it will definitely help with preventing the engine from oil starvation during starts especially if the car was sitting for some time. I would personally upgrade the oil pump if the engine is suffering from lubricatation issues and I will run an oil pressure sensor log to monitor my oil pressure during race track laps. Also I would check the oil pressure relief valve it might me stuck open due to bad oil let’s not forget that the oil on a direct injected engine could be dirty or you could have fuel diluted oil since you are running direct injected engine. Before you start modifying your oil pump always check the basics the devil is in the details.
Maybe but the discharge pipe diameter is most likely setup to prevent cavitation and high rpm. For me the bearing wear is most likely caused during start up when the oil has been deluted with gasoline due to direct injection. The only way to be sure is to send oil sample for analysis every time you make an oil change . I have seen the same wear in diesel engine and in 90% of the cases is caused by fuel dilution because injectors nozzles were not serviced on time. Now on small engine like this is hard to say but everything else is good on the engine the only thing left is fuel in the oil. I have seen restrictor plates installed on the discharge of a positive displacement pump in order to protect the pump from cavitation. Also let’s not forget that under high rpm the engine oil pump will supply more than enough oil pressure to maintain hydro dynamic lubrication because if it is not you will have a catastrophic failure you will spin a bearing it will not be bearing wear there will be no engine left. On other solution to the problem is to install a small electrical pre lube pump and run it for 30 sec before you crank the engine that will give you at least 0.5 bar of oil to prevent the wear that you show . This is how it is done on large commercial applications I am not saying it will be easy or cheap but it fix the issue and definitely run oil sample if fuel is present in the oil start changing the oil more often or check the injectors you might have a bad nozzle. Any way nice video . Thank you for reading the comment it feels so good to talk to an intelligent person. I might be buying a WRX and I am a bit sceptical about direct injection on car because I work on large diesel installations and I know how sensitive is a direct injected engine.
Like I said proven with Data. Please read some of our articles on modding Subaru oil pumps. Bearing wear usually happens in high-output builds that are run very hard, not daily drivers. This isn't a turbocharged commercial diesel engine. Use oil rated for direct injection to avoid carbon particle wear and change it frequently. Also, plan to walnut blast the intake ports every 30-50k miles as part of normal maintenance.
I'd be keen to see you talk about the GR Yaris/GR Corolla G16E-GTS 3cyl. Powertune Australia just made 750+hp at the hubs out of a stock bottom end which is pretty insane
Subaru also have shim over bucket for the older ej which can be adopted on newer ej and you can adjust valve easily buy removing valve covers and compress spring with a special tool and using a magnet to pickup the pucks
@@motoiq why don't you show us photos of how many you had spit out ? provide facts to back up useless random info ? I can show you JDM STi and WRX with half million miles with out spitting out nothing. what you got ?
In 40 years of being around racing, this is a common problem with shim on bucket valvetrains and it's why converting to shim under bucket or select fit buckets is a common mod for engines of all makes. I can't help it if you are an internet tuner with limited experience.
There is a poor man version of FA24 before FA24 came out, that is to swap a FB25 short block into a FA20 engine. You use the FA20 crank to keep your stroke the same. Eventually the product is 2.4L since the stroke is shorter than FB24 but bore is much larger. My friend did such swap to his FA20 and added a slightly higher lift aftermarket cam. It failed twice. The first time one of the cam follower broke. The second time the high lift cam itself broke. After all the high lift cam FA20 head + FB25 short block combo only gained like 10 hp on the wheels over the stock FA20 head + FB25 combo.
Just a quick correction: If the WRX FA20 is like the BRZ FA20, the valve train doesn't use hydraulic lash adjusters, the part that looks like one is just a solid fulcrum and valve lash is adjusted via a shim under the follower on the tip of the valve. That's the one thing I know for sure because my Toyota 86 had the luck of being in the batch of 2017/2018 engines with tight valves. Engine had to come out and shims had to be changed.
They are hydraulic, the shims are used to get them close. Don't believe me? Maybe you believe flatirons tuning. www.flatironstuning.com/subaru-oem-valve-rocker-shim-fa20-fa24
@@motoiq I do not mean to be contrarian, but check them out in detail: they look the part of a lash adjuster, are in an oil gallery, oil does come up through them, but they're solid.
The ones I have seen are hydraulic. I think some of the FB motors may be solid. To quote engine builders magazine "It is a completely different design than the EJ, although it still remains an opposing four cylinder,” Anning says. “It has direct injection technology, mechanical fuel pump, asymmetrical connecting rods. It’s a very squared motor. It’s an 86mm bore and an 86mm stroke, whereas all the STIs are over square. Instead of shim-less buckets, it’s got rocker arms with hydraulic lash adjusters in it. It’s a neat little motor, but it’s fairly new and in the infancy of the program." Tomei makes solid conversion lifters.
Would love to see a comparison between the ej20 and fa20. Iirc, the ej25 had more issues with overheating and headgaskets due to having a thin cylinder wall, because subaru bored the ej20 out to make the 25, and made it too thin.
I could listen to this man talk engines all day
educated and concise with full factual explanations that are easy to understand even for a layman, hard to find on youtube.
Definitely want to see FA20 vs FA24
There isnt much difference, mostly bore size and minor difference to how oil drains to the pan.
@@motoiq Is it not true that the fa24 has notably thicker rods and cylinder walls than the fa20? I really appreciate your content. Oh, I just saw the part where you said you hadn't gotten one in yet.
@motoiq I thought the beehive valve springs were better? Rods a little bigger? Seems like doing the Tomei gears for the oil pump is wise regardless on an FA2X?
The 24 is about the same, maybe the rods are a little stronger, the bore is bigger, the engine on the stand is a FA24. It's not like the FA20 rods are weak, I think the FA can make the boost at low RPM and stresses them out. They don't bend until higher power levels are reached, like 350 lb/ft of torque, over 400 hp, a good tuner can manage your boost to keep you in the safe zone.
@motoiq I much appreciate your help and responses. To confirm, this all applies to the DIT version of FA24 as well?
I wanna say that, for me, this is the perfect level of detail. Not way over my head, not too dumbed down. "Accessible", I think they call it. I have a FB and its *still* entertaining.
FA20 WRX owner and yes the wave of torque from 2k to 4,5k is massive. Don't have to ring them out to have fun. As street car and snow drfter having all this torque down low makes them super enjoyable
By ring them out, do you mean like the copper orings?
The 24 isn't what you will think with the damn tuning FYI
@@ace7912 ringing it out means going high in the rev range in this context.
@@twanheijkoop6753 ah okay thx
@@twanheijkoop6753 ah okay thx man
The BEST engine discussion I've seen. Not boring for one second, this presenter really knows his stuff and spoke so clearly with minimal "ums" or wasted words. Seriously, what a splendid use of my time. I learned so much in these 30 minutes, I wish every salesperson at Subaru would show this video to prospective buyers to show them how great the new BRZ/WRX engines are. I have an FA24 WRX and got protuned to 315 hp and it feels incredible. I, and my EJ WRX buddies, all agree the new engine just feels so good.
For reference: My FBO (intake, DP, 93 tune) 2014 EJ257 STI makes about identical power as my buddies 2018 FA20 WRX (Intake, DP, 93 Tune, FMIC) - Although I have him on the very top end - 125+mph ---These FA20's and FA24's are definitely on my list as my next daily!
This guy Mike is a trip! He’s always smiling while conversing, which makes me smile and is very knowledgeable!
Learned a lot about my engine today besides running it for ten years now :-D Thank you!
In any other conversation, this gentleman would sound like a surfer dude, but it’s awesome to listen to him talk about Subaru engines, where he appears to be a savant
Appreciate the effort you guys put into these videos. Currently driving a '22 BRZ with the FA24, great little engine so far!
Your videos are the greatest. There's nothing like learning from someone who truly knows what they're talking about.
I'm running my fa24dit WRX at Stage 2 (Cobb package), ~300whp and ~340wtq feels fantastic. Motor is so smooth. The rods worry me at 340tq, but I think they're beefier than fa20dit's.
So much smack talked on Subarus but 5 star safety rating, 4 adults fit inside, awd for MN winter, 6 speed manual, and ~400tq at crank for $32k new... come on.
Don't worry about the rods. FA24 WRX are making 375 whp/450 lbs-ft on E50 totally stock motors and they hold up great.
Your wealth of knowledge is priceless, Mike. I absolutely love watching all your vids and especially the Subaru related ones.
I'm in the "small" camp of WRX owners who don't plan on making very much more than stock power ever. I bought mine new in '21 and won't be doing any tune-required power mods until after the powertrain warranty is gone, even then I'm looking for around 300 HP only. I just want a fun, reliable daily and that's it. I've improved the driving performance massively just through suspension, brakes and shifting mods. That said, a large factor in getting the WRX over the STi was the differences between the EJ and FA. Having dealt first hand with EJs and their weaknesses I knew I wanted the changes the FA brought.
300whp is pretty good u won't be gapping v8 mustangs but u can def have a lot of fun
I have a 21' limited that's around 300 with a sway bar kit and some chassis bracing, plus Grimspeed manifold. Voided warranty at about 5k, but no issues so far, and car is infinitely more fun to drive! Spool-up happens way quicker now, so pulling out of hairpins is one of the car's most gratifying features. This is a great video; seems like if Subaru had chosen to produce more STIs, the FA24 would have been the preferred power-plant.
Im running my 19 stock. Just braces and exhaust and some wider wheels and performance tires and is quick enough not for racing but taking it on windy roads and in the wet.
Didnt buy my car to gap mustangs or race any other cars. Bought the car for the feel of the drive @mickdabz
I boguht a spt 2024 WRX. As a daily it exceeded my expectations. I really love this thing. For tuning I might get a 2020 or 2021 EJ and let a reputable tuner build it right.
27:46 I wonder how effective the kit that Subaru sells is for removing the carbon. This kit is basically a cleaner that is put through the intake - I had planned on doing this treatment at 50,000 miles.
The chemicals are not as good as walnut blasting, there are before and after pics on google if you want to see.
Out of curiosity wouldn't a water/meth unit like Snow Perf that mounts upstream keep it carbon-free? @@motoiq
I think it certainly may help. Possibly a lot.
Protect this man at all cost, truly a subaru guru! Im gett8ng a TR now
As a FA20 owner my tuner was surprised how much power he got out of the car with minimal changes plus e60.
Same here, mostly built-ons and dynoed to 325 whp and 335 torque easily! I was told only a stage 3 STi makes a little more torque! Has been lots of fun!
I really enjoy watching these videos. This guy has such an effortless way of talking & sharing his knowledge, which is extensive. Good to watch no fuss, no clip bait,all style & no substance videos. 👍
My stock FA20DIT had a failed rod bearing at 54k. Always maintained and babied cause I bought it brand new. This helps me understand what might have gone wrong a lot more than how the dealer has explained things. Thank you for the great in depth knowledge.
Please can you do more NA FA20 tips, builds, and info? Thank you!
That is coming
Tip: dont try to make big power on any NA subaru boxer. the heads limit the cam options to the point of making it futile.
@@BrewProof I’ve never had interest in making big turbo power out of the 86
@@motoiq thank you!
@@motoiqty!!
Hes out here doing the Lord's work, and looks happy as a clam to do so. I appreciate the level of detail provided.
Thank you for shinning lights at the FA family Mike!
Knowing that FA2xDIT have fitted in a scavenge pump from the factory turbo, such that we don't usually see lateral G oil starvation events from the WRX, however can you please shine lights at the reason on why FA2xD (twins' engines) are particularly proned to lateral G oil starvation events? And what are some of the aftermarket solution that the twins can combat this without using accumulator?
I think it's oil slosh or oil consumption and people not paying attention to the oil level at the track. It is interesting that the GR86 cup car engines we have worked on have had bearings in great shape and those are legit race cars with high level drivers and sticky tires. I think running an AOS, the IAG baffle and pickup and if you are extra paranoid, the Killer B baffle that prevents oil from sloshing into the front cover area should stop it. Also any car needs to have it's oil checked and kept on the full mark when being driven on the track. You need to check every session!
@motoiq Mike I wish I can agree to that, running greddy baffle (basically timing cover block off + horizontal baffle) + 1 qrt overfill still didn't help some of my oil starvation events, with the fa24d
@@motoiq Like this video I clipped, i was running 6.5 qrts total oil with a greddy baffle.
ua-cam.com/users/clipUgkx7wXXgkw2NjMS0ZJR2B0jT9yGsplDo-Pm?si=HZdB7D-u9z8Cvfa_
@@VinRZoverfilled it by a quart, eh?
@Adam-ub9nu there was supposed to be a link that I showed. But it's probably under reviewed. Yes the car was baffled and 1 qrt overfilled. There will be at least 1 qrt suspended within the engine when it's running, I checked that when the engine is at idle. Dipstick went from full mark to min mark, after the engine turned over.
How alone I felt in 1998, with an '86 EJ-82 Turbo... bored and sleeved to 95mm making it a 2L from a 1.8L... even had the oil pump rotor sleeved so it wouldn't wear the block... JE pistons, crower cams... before Subaru's were cool I guess 😃
FA24 in my 2019 Ascent and 22 WRX have been rock solid so far. Neither burn a drop of oil; it’s refreshing.
Good to hear. What oil you running ?
Ow20
@AntilleanConfederation I run 5w30 on my 22 wrx and highly recommend it. Slightly less efficient, but you don't have to worry about engine wear at Temps over 230° unlike 0w20
Fabulous technical info backed with facts, experiences and delivered without hype! Thank you.
Having gone from a 2020 WRX to a 2018 STI because it seemed like a natural progression, I have no issues or hesitation saying that I hands down prefer the FA from my previous WRX over the EJ in my STI. None. I put 36,000 miles on the WRX and have now put 17,000 on the STI since buying it. I am not joking when I say the first time I got the full taste of a proper launch in the STI, I was as hooked as those tires were. But that feeling is very out shined by the way the engine behaves the rest of the time, I am constantly on edge and babying it afraid it is going to disassemble itself. With every single revolution it feels like it wants to spread itself all over the highway, I signed up for AAA thirty years early because of it to be honest.
The only disappointment I could possibly express about the WRX was the open diffs in the front and rear, I couldn't care less about that DCCD nonsense. I have no doubt that if the opportunity to pick up a < 2022 WRX Premium 6MT with the "Performance Package" presented itself I would be calling the seller right away. Then I'd be following that call up with a search for an STI transmission swap.
Coming from 141k and only having oil leaks from the valve covers. You dont need to baby it lol i launched this thing more than enoght and rans really good.
@@Menace_stiDriving it around on the highway reminds me of taking my Dad's old F250 up to 70mph, it feels rung out and ready to 'splode. Plus IDK how the previous guy treated it for the first part of it's life.
@aland7236 probably time for some suspension mods and new mounts either tranny or motor 🤔
Mike, is it true that FA is like 120lb + heavier than EJ? Looks like FA still has the dog leg exhaust too. Love this series it’s like a Masterclass with Mike! ❤
It is only slightly heavier. Like the case is only 1 lb more. The front cover is maybe 5 lbs more and the upper pan is 4-5 lbs more.
Good information. A couple notes, though: while timing chains may be designed as lifetime fit, the history of modern cars necessitating massive timing chain system service after 100k miles or so due to component failure means that's not always the case. EJs do have a block oil vapor separator, at the back of the engine on the right side. They tend to leak and cause people to confuse leaky oil vapor separator covers for leaking rear main seals. SOHC phase II EJs (generally post-1997) also use roller rockers. I never cared for shim over/under bucket valves so the FA is a welcome improvement.
My experience is limited but my FA24DIT was silky smooth and never had a hiccup over 60k miles
I work at a Subaru dealer and they've honestly been great. They were selling Ascents for about 3 years before we had a head off any of them, and that's in a busy 10 bay shop.
@@JohnUnit yeah I had a 2021 Ascent Touring. Other than the transmission being a turd off the line and in general and the low power it had compared to other vehicles in the same segment I couldn’t keep it forever. I started getting transmission slip at 10k miles. Driving down i29 in a headwind. Speed limit is 80mph I was doing 85mph and the headwind was 20-40mph. I noticed my speed was staying the same but my rpm’s were going up and down.
Excellent presentation - no superfluous wordy crap and just the data and reasoning behind design differences. Old Navy nukes such as me appreciate this.
Thanks for the details on the FA. Those benefits are exactly why i opted for the WRX over tbe STi and I haven't regretted it!
I cannot get enough of your content. Thank you
Great info,soft spoken,love this guy.
I test drove a WRX with the FA and in stock form with the VF52 turbo, it felt just as lively as my Forester XT with downpipe + tune (TD04 turbo).
Thanks for the great video!
I have two cars with EJs, myself. Both are white. I have a 2004 sti and a 2010 sti. The 2004 is my built one, the 2010 is my daily. The 2004 has had about 619 whp (used to be 602 whp before I got the killer b holy headers max and re-tuned) at 35 psi for about 25k kms now. I got the closed deck short block from IAG. The 2010 has a rebuilt motor with proper pistons and all the oiling safety mods. Only power mods are a 3" catted TBE and a tune. It's only at 263 whp at 17 psi. It could have made more, but I had no idea the 2010's ecu can hold whole multiple tunes before I bought it. My wife doesn't like the feeling of acceleration, so I asked my tuner to keep it as low as possible for my daily. Kind of the opposite most ask for. He assumed I knew about the multiple tune thing. I might get it tuned for 19-21 psi eventually, or whatever the oem turbo can do.
I loved my FA20, it was FBO E60 and lasted 3 years till I got rod knock. So your point about the bearings makes sense. I moved on to a built STi and I love this car way more. FA is still cool though.
Part of it may be that fewer are tuned, but we see very few blown FA at my dealer. Mostly just rod knock on cars that are heavily tuned, or modified with no tune. Also carbon buildup, but thats rare on cars driven hard. No head gaskets, no oil burning. I just wish they came with unequal length headers for that classic sound.
Why would driving a DI car hard change if it has buildup on the valves? Heat promotes carbon buildup, you know that right?
@@izzy9022 flow tends to pull buildup off, and enough heat seems to burn it off. Question the science but it's a pattern Subaru techs and head office have noticed over the years.
Badass break down this will help the community out thank you sir
A mechanic with the knowledge of what hypo and hypereutectic steel performance differences are is a man worth listening to. Metallurgy is no joke.
Eutectic refers to the amount of silicon in the aluminum, not steel.
@@jamesgeorge4874 No. Eutectic and eutectoid terms are applicable to any alloys, referring to phase transformations and lowest melting points. For steel, check the Fe-Fe3C phase diagram and find the eutectoid point.
I made a mistake of typing steel in my comment above without specifying the steel components of the pistons, as the Subaru engines blocks are made of aluminium alloys,
Pretty sure he's an engineer!
@@emel60 Except In this case, which it does. Please mind the context.
@@emel60 Sure, but this engine is predominantly aluminum. And the creator acknowledged it already. It is common to use hypereutectic alloy pistons, because they are strong, and hard, but they exhibit lower expansion characteristics than eutectic pistons, allowing tighter tolerances, and lower emissions.
Considering the length of time subaru ran EJ motors, you would really hope that they made all the improvements they did.
EJ owner
It is pretty cool to see how many of the issues that have come up over the last 20+ years with the ej series motors have been addressed with the FA. Definitely not perfect but they have definitely started taking steps in the right direction.
Well I’d hope that they’d want to improve the flaws 😂
Phenomenal video and presenter. Give us more of these!
Two issues with the FA that I've seen while working at a Subaru specialist shop that weren't mentioned...
1) Cam Case Seals - The cases that hold the cams in, the RTV fails and leaks around 100k miles on all variants of the FA/FB engines. Costs about as much as a timing job on an EJ to fix too due to the labor.
2) Injector seals blow out - Not sure about the new FA24, but the FA20DIT certainly blew out Injector seals at times. This could damage the motor, but not usually. Not a huge issue, but it happens.
1. I forgot to talk about that, my bad. 2. The newer engines don't have that problem and the ones that have the bad parts probably had them fail and get fixed by now.
The FA20 is what should've been in the 2008 WRX
That wrx was before its time. All the wrxs should've had the ej20 and stis should have used the ej22. The ej25 is the most unreliable of the bunch.
Nah as a 140k mi EJ owner its a better motor than the FA20. The FA20 only exists because Subaru needed to build a motor for their new global platform.
10.6:1 compression ratio makes zero sense for a turbo car. DI only even more so... @volatilegaming5852
@@izzy9022this. And they used an EJ in project midnight no?
Love to see how engineering improves over time. Great breakdown!
Not with everything, EJ sump plugs last forever. The FA type uses a small 14mm head that gives problems. The FA and FB engines have heaps of oil leaks from the timing chain cases.
@@beckers1330EJ have plenty more issues
I have a 2017 86 with a FA 2.0L. I’m using 0w20 recommended viscosity oil made by Valvoline. Thinking of switching to signature series Amsoil instead. Do you think that is a good choice or should I just stay with valvoline gold 0w20?
I think you should run a 10w40 SF rated full synthetic if you are a hard driver.
@@motoiq thanks for the suggestion but it’s mostly a once in awhile weekend car or emergency ride when we need it. It’s 7 years old and only has 7,900 miles
Appreciate the info as always! Stock daily '18 STi here; think about doing "something" all the time...
Great presentation! Explains things well. I'm partial to EJs (I own 2) and had an FB (not an FA but I've driven one of those). Great food for thought.
Great call out with the oiling issues and potential fixes with the fa!
Have you guys done any na fa20 performance builds?
No, generally I talk people out of that. You will get a 2 liter with a narrow powerband and less torque in a heavy modent car.
@@motoiqgood to know thanks, i was researching if ej25 swap to fa20 is feasible
A mild build with a 2.2 stroker, cleaned up heads and mild cams will be nice but not an all out high rev NA build.
@@motoiq interesing, would it be like that with a turbo fa20 or fa24 as well? Just curious if it's worth the money to build an EJ or to try to swap to the newer engines
I would build the EJ as that engine is pretty developed. It's probably cheaper to fully build an EJ than sort out an FA and the electronics, then the FA would only be stock.
I’m so happy when watching this guy.
Hey, give us tips for GT86/BRZ owners🙏
Over fill your oil pan and use 5w30/40
@@stephngibson5517what 😂
Get an ej257 bro!!
I think you should watch the video. We talked about those motors, also we are doing a how to build an FA20 soon.
@@motoiqnot touching my motor until this video is out
The wealth of knowledge you have and share is amazing.
Thank you.
Great video, wow so informative and great to hear your valuable analysis
good info, but might want to revise statements around the valve lash adjustment. FAs need lash adjustment as frequently as EJs and due to rocker design, there are bigger inconsistencies in clearance over time.
Your only replacing chains if they are stretched, that only happens if your late on oil changes with time, well maintained chain driven engines can last a long time
Didn't know the FA difference between SUB and TOY's DI only and dual injection, would definitely affect which one I'd buy.
I think walnut blasting your engine every 50-80k is a bigger deal/hassle than an EJ timing belt every 100k/10yrs (I've done it twice on mine).
Timing chains are more sensitive to oil quality and viscosity, so yes a timing chain requires less service, but long oil change intervals and poor quality oil will take its toll.
A timing chain reliability is way more than any belt.
You guys made it! Thanks!
Thanks for showing the various differences between the EJ and FA engines. I didn't know how many ways the bottom end was beefed up.
I knew about the timing chain. That was the #1 reason I fell in love. I hate timing belts with a passion. I like the roller hydraulic followers.
I like that you mentioned the crank overlap. When I saw Subaru cranks for the first time, I couldn't imagine how they would be durable because the counterweights were so thin. I was used to thinking about inline engines.
I find it interesting that when the 4G63T was replaced by the 4B11T, Mitsubishi removed the hydraulic finger followers and used solid buckets.
Whenever I read about people adjusting valves on Subarus, usually they just leave it until the heads have to be rebuilt. Goodson makes a tool that can shorten the foot of the lifter bucket.
The reason some engines aren't priority main is because of hydraulic lash adjusters. In the old OHV engines with hydraulic flat lifters, that system was in use, otherwise the engine would make many annoying noises after startup.
That oil galley enlargement thing made me think about the Buick big block. Many people found that the oil system isn't good enough when getting more power. The guys reshape the oil pump to block interface to maximize flow. It helps make the Buick last. That's not to say it is a perfect fix.
i've had a wild hare up my ass to put an FA24DiT into my 15 STI. Not much info out there yet to confidently do it yet. I read at one point subaru already had a production ready STI version of this engine, but axed it along with the new STI :(
That might be an interesting swap except for the electronics
@@motoiq The electronics are the biggest hoop to jump. Making the DCCD, Traction control, and all things 4WD has really only been managed by a piggy back Cobb system on a stock ECU. I really dont think there is a decent standalone system available currently besides "full race car stuff" to achieve something like this and keep regular vehicle functionality. idk, i'd give my car up for science to make it work though.
im interested in swapping out my 80hp ea71 to an fb16dit with a brz transmission
Awesome video! Would love to hear more about the FA24Dit. These seem heavily de-tuned from the factory.
Technically every engine is "detuned" from the factory. Manufacturers will always pick reliability over performance especially for economy cars. When you turn up performance on a stock engine you are turning down reliability. They have limitation on the components just like the EJ and FA20 does.
Former 400+hp fa20 owner, now in a 400+hp fa24. I much prefer the vb over the va wrx. I’m on different turbos for each so it’s not quite and apples to apples comparison (BL54x va vs g30-770 vb). But man. The VB is just so much fun to drive.
Also, thanks for the vid comparison! One day I’ll pick up an EJ sti 😍
Fa24 is truly a work of art, cornfedwrx is pushing 550 whp from 8k in mods
Commenting before watching. EJ is the superior platform. lol
I could listen to him talk all day
Thank you min 21:00 on is what i came for! Is that all for oiling?
12:00 i spy a WPC treated piston
source: i just got my WPC'd pistons in today 😍
I don't know about the FA engines, but in the EJ world there are quite a few different types (EJ20, EJ25, EJ20 W20C, ...). Performance wise, I would think the EJ like the W20C (very thick cylinder walls) should be a better base than the FAXX. Also, the EJ207 EDM version uses forged pistons from the factory, which is also a good performance feature. As far as I know, as of 2006 there are only hyper-cast pistons on all markets available, which are not as strong as the forged ones.
Once you pass the low 400's all of the EJ's need the same sort of mods.
@@motoiq Thank for your response! I'm at about 430-450 hp (1.8 bar mamba GTX3076 with a .64 A/R turbine housing, stock tm intercooler) for 8 years now (on my YT channel the videos are still old from my first setup with about 380 hp with an china TD05-20G 1.6 bar for other 4 years) all with the stock EJ207 and 98 Oct fuel :D But I have to say that I'm not using it on a track, only street but still I push the car really often nearly every weekend. My plan is to buy the precision turbo what you recommended in your other video to get over 500 hp with a stock location turbo and hopefully less turbo lag. I just want to try more with the stock engine. When it explodes I will come back to you😂
With a 207 you are still probably in the OK range.
Oh the toil of valve adjustments on an EJ. Those who know, know. Overall, I’m impressed with the improvements made on the FA!
Valve jobs on the FA SUCK, but its reward his high when done.
Wow. You are a wealth of knowledge, Sir. Thank you!
I've had my 86 at 400whp for roughly 35K KMs and haven't had any issues. Engine has never been opened so all internals are factory. Last time I had the car in for work i had a compression and leakdown test done, results were surprisingly good. I was not expecting this engine to last at all, but it has not skipped a beat. Trans oil did show some signs of wear when it was last replaced, but it feels exactly how it did when i drove it off the showroom floor. I never knew about the oiling issue on the mains. If i ever bend a rod and have to open the engine, ill be looking into the modifications you suggested to ease the restrictions at least. Thanks.
The Stock FA is stronger than the EJ.
I have a Scion FR-S with 160K miles and would like to add a turbocharger to it. It runs flawlessly but I had seen videos of FA20s splitting in half because of excessive boost. Everything inside is stock; just added a cold air kit and a cat back exhaust.
Run E85 and keep the power under 400 whp. With a good tune you'll be fine.
This, although I will say that if you do track days, 400 hp and turbo torque will shit the transmission really fast. In as little as one session if you are a good aggressive driver.
@@motoiq I drive like an old man😂. I just do a lot of cruising and occasionally go to The Tail If The Dragon 🐉 (fall time). Thanks for your input.
@@ChurchAutoTest I will do that. Thanks for your suggestion.
Probably an odd question/request but what's your opinion on the old Toyota 2AZ-FE engines? They were used a bunch during the Scion era and in Formula D in various forced induction forms so I'm curious if you have any info or experience with them
Pretty good engines, no aftermarket support
@@motoiq Sounds about right haha
Great Video Mike!
Great knowledge and enjoyable listen, learned lots about my FA20
Great video. Well presented and a wealth of knowledge. Only issue I have now is that I want to sell my EJ 😂
I’m an old EJ guy with my bug eye on a EJ257. But last year a got an RB power. Man I’m excited to see what this engine can do! I had a bad experience with the FA turbo. The N/A FA did great for me, but the turbo, sadly was a bad experience. With the Skyline and the RB26 it’s a new engine experience for me, I like what I got so far over the FA, but the built EJ is one of the best engines I’ve had tuned. I can tell the RB is superior tho! Thanks for the content!
The RB is somewhat fragile too, Don't exceed 450 whp on it in stock trim.
Yes it is, the heat and oil feed in early models especially are limiting factors too. We are building the bottom end. And upgrading the oil system along with cooling. I did manage to get the N1 block from a R34 so a lot of the stuff was corrected thru the years but still it’s an engine. #6 cylinder is susceptible to heat issues. I have already encountered that issue. I cooked a spark plug. I’m learning the engine far more now that I own the car. I’m enjoying the experience.
Get a later oil pump and crank or you will break the gears.
@motoiq sorry for the late reply, I actually have the R34 N1 with N1 manifolds and turbo. I have the millennium jade valve covers, with the getrag 6 spd XMSN. Being a later engine I’m assuming I have a later pump. But we are nonetheless doing a bottom end 2.8l rebuild and a top end vcam swap for newer and known components being I have zero service records for the car. Plan is to be on the floor at SEMA and to track the car after that. This car is my daily and does perform well with everyday driving and I do road trips to other states for shows when I’m available. Thanks for the replies. I do really appreciate it and I love watching your videos and listening to your knowledge of engines. Hopefully, I can meet you out there someday. I reside in Arizona.
The later pump is much better. I would still get a spline drive pump conversion since you are gonna be in there and will track the car.
Excited to see more fa20dit content! Would love to know more about making power! Im hyyyyype! Love my VA WRX! Hearing about how to helped the oiling issue was huge! Hopfully that help me not spin a baring!
Wake up, samurai, new MotoIQ video dropped!
Actually, I've never owned any Subaru, I just love MotoIQ.
i would like a better internal analysis of the FA24 and the FA24 DIT if you get the chance. unfortunate the new wrx is butt ass ugly but it looks like a really good improvement
It is basically the same.
@@motoiq I would assume the basic design is very similar. Thank you for answering! I can only find a few things about the oil pickup and the small changes made for oil moving under g load in the head design
and bore size
Great Vid!
Still prefer the EJ25 over the FA20. I don't know if its the combustion chamber, the fact that its Subaru's first real attempt with DI or what, but it's really finicky on pump gasoline. That said, the FA24 seems to fix all these issues and is a really great engine from what we've seen so far. Power potential is through the roof, the combustion chamber seems much "softer" when it comes to tuning with crappy CA91 gas, and it's just a really enjoyable engine to work with.
Did you know that their is a difference in the DI flow path and pre-chamber between the FA20F and the FA20DIT? just noticed that, the FA20F splits the injected fuel in two and the DIT goes straight into the pre chamber.
@@motoiq Did not know that!
watching knock and dam on my accessport for my 18WRX gives me horrible anxiety. it's never clear to me what i should and shouldn't be worried about and people constantly say bad gas but i've tried multiple places with similar results.
on the stock tune it would constantly cut timing and "knock" even on a the highest octane
all that being said i'm at 70k or so and have not had my carbon cleaned and have no idea how much is built up so there's that too.
@@LunasLostLove The stock tune is basically designed to keep pushing the edge of knock for maximum economy. Proper aftermarket tunes seek to find the ideal timing level for the fuel you run and limit the overall adaptability. Even then, seeing -1 to -2 degrees of knock retard periodically, especially at light throttle, isn't unusual on an FA20.
Great stuff man, good work!
Thank for the extremely informative information you've provided on the FA20 engine. Do you think a set of restrictors in the oilways that feed the heads would help to prioritize the oiling to the crankshaft and rod bearings ? Another thought is to make a spacer to lower the oil pan 25 mm, extend the pickup and provide oil control at the bottom for the oil pickup and what's you thoughts on this?
There is a post in the FT86Club forum talked about putting a restrictor at the heads' oil passage inlet, so more oil can flow into the block. But idk how legit is that solution, since our AVC needs oil flow from the heads.
The engine has better oil control by an order of magnitude. I think restricting the top end oil might help but since this engine has HLA's it could be an expensive experiment.
Ej253 here. 2008 Impreza Outback Sport. Had it rebuilt and runs great.
I had one of those in an ‘05 OBS. Great little car, was loads of fun and it’d go absolutely anywhere, through anything, all while carrying a enormous amount of cargo.
I will also say the Subaru dealer process for carbon cleaning doesn't need the intake pulled, and even doing 2-3 rounds of it will still be cheaper than anything where you re/re the intake. We have good results with it, even when it's bad enough that the car is throwing a check engine light. That's more common on the softly driven Forester XT anyway. Most WRX guys give it an 'italian tuneup' and blow/burn the carbon out daily anyway.
My opinion is the liquid cleaners don't work nearly as well as walnut unless you get in there and scrape it with picks.
MAN, If this guy was my dad i would have the wildest Subaru & K24 swap ek hatch builds you could imagine 😅
Most likely the FA pump cover bore is smaller in order to create back pressure for the oil pump this will help with the ability of the pump to self prime and since the pump is a positive displacement pump it will not really affect the flow as much but it will definitely help with preventing the engine from oil starvation during starts especially if the car was sitting for some time. I would personally upgrade the oil pump if the engine is suffering from lubricatation issues and I will run an oil pressure sensor log to monitor my oil pressure during race track laps. Also I would check the oil pressure relief valve it might me stuck open due to bad oil let’s not forget that the oil on a direct injected engine could be dirty or you could have fuel diluted oil since you are running direct injected engine. Before you start modifying your oil pump always check the basics the devil is in the details.
I disagree with you on the pump passage. Data from modding other Subaru pumps shows that this is wrong.
Maybe but the discharge pipe diameter is most likely setup to prevent cavitation and high rpm. For me the bearing wear is most likely caused during start up when the oil has been deluted with gasoline due to direct injection. The only way to be sure is to send oil sample for analysis every time you make an oil change . I have seen the same wear in diesel engine and in 90% of the cases is caused by fuel dilution because injectors nozzles were not serviced on time. Now on small engine like this is hard to say but everything else is good on the engine the only thing left is fuel in the oil. I have seen restrictor plates installed on the discharge of a positive displacement pump in order to protect the pump from cavitation. Also let’s not forget that under high rpm the engine oil pump will supply more than enough oil pressure to maintain hydro dynamic lubrication because if it is not you will have a catastrophic failure you will spin a bearing it will not be bearing wear there will be no engine left. On other solution to the problem is to install a small electrical pre lube pump and run it for 30 sec before you crank the engine that will give you at least 0.5 bar of oil to prevent the wear that you show . This is how it is done on large commercial applications I am not saying it will be easy or cheap but it fix the issue and definitely run oil sample if fuel is present in the oil start changing the oil more often or check the injectors you might have a bad nozzle. Any way nice video . Thank you for reading the comment it feels so good to talk to an intelligent person. I might be buying a WRX and I am a bit sceptical about direct injection on car because I work on large diesel installations and I know how sensitive is a direct injected engine.
Like I said proven with Data. Please read some of our articles on modding Subaru oil pumps. Bearing wear usually happens in high-output builds that are run very hard, not daily drivers. This isn't a turbocharged commercial diesel engine. Use oil rated for direct injection to avoid carbon particle wear and change it frequently. Also, plan to walnut blast the intake ports every 30-50k miles as part of normal maintenance.
OH automatic LIKE gonna love this!
Love these videos!
4G63 Could you do a video analysis on this?
It's coming
FA has alot of improvements but it looks like there were some sacrifices made for daily use reliability. Thank you for the clear breakdown
Actually the changes were done to improve daily reliability, the only flaw is the oiling system and that is in the case of adding extreme power.
Love this content 💪🏼💯
I'd be keen to see you talk about the GR Yaris/GR Corolla G16E-GTS 3cyl.
Powertune Australia just made 750+hp at the hubs out of a stock bottom end which is pretty insane
The walls are thick as brick😂😂😂
I will be getting one soon but from tuners in other countries, the engine has a reputation for being pretty strong already.
@@motoiq keen to see it!
when I boosted my fa20 frs, it shot a rod thru the top at just over 310 hp. It let go at around peak tq ~4500rpm on a cool night
310 hp or whp? Usually the fa20 is good just below 300 hp. Im sitting around 270-280 whp.
A lot of that depends on the skill or lack of skill of your tuner. And your monitoring your oil level and condition.
Subaru also have shim over bucket for the older ej which can be adopted on newer ej and you can adjust valve easily buy removing valve covers and compress spring with a special tool and using a magnet to pickup the pucks
Shim over bucket sucks for performance cams, they spit them out.
@@motoiq why don't you show us photos of how many you had spit out ? provide facts to back up useless random info ? I can show you JDM STi and WRX with half million miles with out spitting out nothing. what you got ?
In 40 years of being around racing, this is a common problem with shim on bucket valvetrains and it's why converting to shim under bucket or select fit buckets is a common mod for engines of all makes. I can't help it if you are an internet tuner with limited experience.
Where's the smaller white hand pointer???
It was too big for this
There is a poor man version of FA24 before FA24 came out, that is to swap a FB25 short block into a FA20 engine. You use the FA20 crank to keep your stroke the same. Eventually the product is 2.4L since the stroke is shorter than FB24 but bore is much larger. My friend did such swap to his FA20 and added a slightly higher lift aftermarket cam. It failed twice. The first time one of the cam follower broke. The second time the high lift cam itself broke. After all the high lift cam FA20 head + FB25 short block combo only gained like 10 hp on the wheels over the stock FA20 head + FB25 combo.
Seems legit
Please do a 4G63 vs 4B11 comparison and maybe some differences with honda/k20 also!
Good idea
Just a quick correction: If the WRX FA20 is like the BRZ FA20, the valve train doesn't use hydraulic lash adjusters, the part that looks like one is just a solid fulcrum and valve lash is adjusted via a shim under the follower on the tip of the valve. That's the one thing I know for sure because my Toyota 86 had the luck of being in the batch of 2017/2018 engines with tight valves. Engine had to come out and shims had to be changed.
They are hydraulic, the shims are used to get them close. Don't believe me? Maybe you believe flatirons tuning. www.flatironstuning.com/subaru-oem-valve-rocker-shim-fa20-fa24
@@motoiq I do not mean to be contrarian, but check them out in detail: they look the part of a lash adjuster, are in an oil gallery, oil does come up through them, but they're solid.
The ones I have seen are hydraulic. I think some of the FB motors may be solid. To quote engine builders magazine "It is a completely different design than the EJ, although it still remains an opposing four cylinder,” Anning says. “It has direct injection technology, mechanical fuel pump, asymmetrical connecting rods. It’s a very squared motor. It’s an 86mm bore and an 86mm stroke, whereas all the STIs are over square. Instead of shim-less buckets, it’s got rocker arms with hydraulic lash adjusters in it. It’s a neat little motor, but it’s fairly new and in the infancy of the program." Tomei makes solid conversion lifters.
Would love to see a comparison between the ej20 and fa20. Iirc, the ej25 had more issues with overheating and headgaskets due to having a thin cylinder wall, because subaru bored the ej20 out to make the 25, and made it too thin.
This video is basically it. The EJ20 has all the same problems as the 257