Making a 16th Century Kirtle : Walkthrough : Part One
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- Way more info is linked below!
A blog post about making this will up soon on my wordpress! : doxiequeen1.wo...
Extra Info:
-I used quilters cotton, canvas, and solid non stretch velvet.
-Other materials include newsprint (pattern paper), plastic boning, hooping wire, and cotton thread.
-This does not work if any of your fabrics are stretchy!
My boning is from here: www.onlinefabr...
More historically accurate/more options are sold here: corsetmaking.com/
Pattern Drafting: I don't have a tutorial for this, I just made it up using a lot of guesswork and information I've picked up through experience. But my pattern is based off a pattern from Norah Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines.
The book "The Tudor Tailor" has a kirtle pattern which is similar, and Creating Historical Clothes by Elizabeth Friendship goes through the process of flat drafting historical costumes.
I talk a (bit) about those books here: doxiequeen1.tum...
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If you are interested in seeing more of my work or contacting me, I'll leave links to my various sites below!
Tumblr: / doxiequeen1
FAQ: doxiequeen1.tum...
Blog: doxiequeen1.wo...
Instagram: / angelacostumery
Portfolio: angelaclayton.c...
Email: AngelaCostumery@gmail.com [serious inquires only please!]
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The music does not belong to me. It was acquired through musopen, I do not own it. It's called "Sheep May Safely Graze" and was written by Johann Sebastian Bach
Just throwing this out there for the viewers. We all hate watching the opening ads, but let's keep in mind, it's a source of revenue (albeit small) for Angela. In my mind, the more she makes, the more she can make..as in costumes! Please let the ads run. Let's help her in her effort to make more fabulous costumes and clothes so we get even more episodes.
This was not solicited by Angela. I'm a fan and would love to be able to say "I knew her when". I'm sure you all would too!
Melanie Varela Well said!!❤️
Melanie Varela you are awesome! thanks for spreading the word, and I totally agree!
Yet ads at the end are less annoying to me as they run while I select the next video. Some single ads are 5 minutes long. Nothing against money to be made but my time is precious too. If it weren't, UA-cam wouldn't need to find new ways to make ads the centre piece of any video I watch. 💜🦉🇦🇺
I agree. Grew up with tv having commercials that's when you got another glass of tea or grabbed the chips.
If you took too long you missed part of your program, this is an upgrade if you take too long rewind 20 seconds or so. 👍🏻
I'm good with that.
This. ^^^ it's your way of supporting your favourite content makers.
I legit wish you held classes so I could learn this stuff, I cannot sew to save my life and I would love to be able to make costumes and historical outfits like yours
elizabethbennett101 Do you have a sewing store near you? If they teach beginning apparel classes, that will teach you learn how to read patterns. Reading patterns is what you'll use most when starting off with stuff like this :)
Practise practise practise . . . I am learning by reparing and customising my weardrobe starting with the easyer things and those where it does not matter when I fuck up, it takes time, but I get better. Sewing masks good thing to practise at low risk too
I may never recreate your pieces but I love watching how much love and effort you put into every piece. It's truly inspiring.
Wheres the second parts??
Also im so glad you talk in more videos. They're all great but i find the non talking ones so relaxing with that music i fall asleep....
flame plastic boning for a quick way to soften edges
Great tip, just do that in a ventilated area and also don't put the boning into the fabric while still hot :)
Jesus all of those little channels for the boning seems like it took SO LONG! But the end result was so professional looking and well made. Great job :)
I would much rather watch the real time than fast motion. Real time let’s the mind absorb what you are doing and it is so relaxing to watch. What you have sewn is so beautiful. Thank you for sharing.
Love this format. Thanks for another excellent show. It's great fun to read through the blog, then watch the video. Black velvet was a perfect choice for this. Looking forward to the sleeves.
I have a ton of that white on white fabric you used for the lining. It's a go-to for making my quilts. I buy it by the bolt.
Have you ever worked for a movie production company? You totally could, your work is so professional.
Just a thought, please try to watch the ads so that Angela can continue to make fabulous content for us!
Could you pleeeeease make a video where you explain how you create your patterns??
I would love to sew this costumes to.
+Mori JA-Fee I'd like to but i'm not sure how! So much of it is guesswork and "Well this feels like it would work" which is based off past experience...and I don't know how to translate that into a video that would be helpful and informative to people. But there is some extra info in the description box to books that talk about pattern drafting or have similar patterns.
I nearly watched the whole video thinking "damn thats some neat craftmanship and really clear explaning" and lo and behold, its Angela Clayton. I should have recognized your voice, tsk tsk.
I love all of your videos. Great job as always :) I hope you go through your drafting process on a video one day. It would have been cool to see how to draft a kirtle!
omg will there ever be a part 2! I really wanna see how to complete this, love this video
I’ve been going crazy looking for part 2, but I guess there never was one?
I'm so glad I saw this comment. I've just been searching all her videos for part 2 😭
Was there ever a part 2? What was she wearing underneath?
I have recently become a major fan of your videos. You are a very inventive, well-informed, hard-working and creative person. I only wish you would give some more historic insight and context with these tutorials. I wish you all the success, you are a true Renaissance woman!
Kind of unrelated but if you ever try and use spiral boning again you need to remember that for every seam where a flat steel or plastic bone would be( excluding the busk or eyelet reinforcing boning) you need two spiral boning, one on each side of the seam. This is why it didn't work the last time. You need double the amount and more seams depending on the design. Hope it works out if you try again.
+enslavedvessel I guess that is what I get for not researching it! Thanks for the tip. I don't see myself really using it again unless it is for a commission. Tipping it is such a pain in the butt and it's really expensive compared to the other options.
I’m going to try and make this
Thank you Melanie for writing about the reason for the commercials. I will make sure that I let the commercial play out so that Angela can earn a bit of money and she can continue to make wonderful videos of her garments.
I learnt so much from this. Actually, I've learnt an incredible amount from ALL of your videos! Are you studying any form of higher education? Fashion orientated school would fall over themselves to offer you scholarships!
+tacktack1 I'm glad! Right now i'm taking a gap year (okay, a couple gap years) and trying to teach myself while building a portfolio. It's cheaper than school and a better fit for me atm, but maybe someday!
I think reed would be an excellence choice for cost and the fact it is more malleable to fit the body with wear since whale bone is a definite no go. Although it may not last with many washings wood does shape to fit if worn wet or put onto a form and allowd to dry. I would be willing and as doon as I hone my corset skills will be trying some out in my future. Blessed be .
Wow, I would love to see part two!! Keep up the fantastic work, you're truly incredible!x
Lovely lovely video as always! Thank you! These are so inspiring and relaxing to watch.
Angela, Happy Thanksgiving. Thanks for sharing your talents with the world.
I envy your dedication for all that hand sewing.. Doing 100% accurate replications of period outfits is a lot of strain on the hands!
WOW! I didn't know it could be this easy! Thank you so much!
I'm a little confused about something... I think you said at the beginning that the primary function of the kirtle was to lift and flatten the bust against the wearer, but you added padding later to "lift and add volume". I suppose I get that lift or support is important with this (especially for someone with more of a bust than say, myself), but if you're wanting to flatten things out, why add padding for volume?
Bubbles Bubbly Since I see this wasn't answered I will add my answer (as far as I understand it), keeping in mind that I am not near as experienced in this is Angela. When she says that the purpose was to lift and flatten it generally meant flatten the area between the bust and the stomach, unlike the curves of each breast that are visible in today's clothing. It only wants to flatten the front of the bust as though there is a board going across from the top of your chest down to your stomach.This way there is no dip in your clothing the shape of each breast. The only visible shape of the bust was if it was lifted and supported enough to push some cleavage over the top of the garment. The top of the bust in the cleavage area still needs lift so that the chest is not completely flattened it's just that something presses against them which moves them up a little bit. In this way they are supported, (it was a very supportive garment in the same way a bra is) flattened and lifted at the same time.
Uma obra impressionante! Admiro seu trabalho!
Is there a part 2 to this? Thanks!
Has part two been completed?
you are so creative. I love watching your videos!
I was so excited to find this because it's exactly what I want to make but now I'm sad because there's no pattern or pattern drafting tutorial:(
I was wondering if you would maybe post your pattern that you used for the bodice and its measurements or even a PDF of it. I'd love to be able to use it as a guide for my kirtle since yours came out so well.
I was wondering where do you learn how to make period costumes? Are you going to school for costuming? Where do you get your dress patterns? Have you ever taken a fashion history class? And how long have you been making costumes? Your videos are inspirational and I would love to make my own costumes and learn the history of costuming. Thanks and have a good day
+MikoMello I'm self taught when it comes to sewing, drafting, research, etc. I've mostly through books and the internet. And a lot of trial and error. I draft the vast majority of my own patterns. I think I've been sewing for four years now or so.
There is a link in my FAQ to all the books I have (and there is a link to that in the videos description!)
Just seeing all that boning makes me want to cry
I saw a tip to use a lighter to melt the tips of the plastic boning. Faster than sanding them to round them off. Thought I would share
this is so helpful i just need to know how to make the same pattern now because that is perfect
Stiff Buckram...so I could technically use stiff fabric or cord instead of plastic boning?? If so that would be super convenient since boning is hard to get here
im so inspired now to sew! i love watching your videos!
This is legitimately so cool thank you
When you make a kirtle in this style, do you wear a boned pair of bodies of this period?
wow!!!...angela you are so, so good I love your videos! God bless you!!!!!
I only I had 3% of your talent. If only.
Is there a part two? I didn't see one :(
What is the garment under the black one? It looks like a harem suit.
Thank you so much for this- its helped me a lot- can you please - if you have any spare time - tell me how you attached the shoulder strap down? was it just a whip stitch too?
Hey,
could they do the kirtle
Link the free sewing pattern to print out in the info box?
Would like to do it again.😊
Do you ever just sew normal clothes for yourself, or do you pretty much only make things for you portfolio? :) xx
+Mo oa Pretty much just for my portfolio. Right now I make whatever I feel like, and I usually feel like making elaborate dresses that wouldn't fit into my everyday wardrobe very well!
+Angela Clayton Okay, thank you for the response :)
angela, is its possible that you can reccomend a few good resources for sewing medieval clothing and recreations? ive scowered pinterest but really im.not having much luck. if you could point me in the right direction, id be so greatful.
Does anyone know where I can find a pattern just like this or how to make one? I’ve never done anything like this before so I need all the help I can get haha!
WHERE'S PART TWO?!
Johnette Williams I only see part 1 too!!
WTF I CANT FIND IT EITHER
angelacostumery.com/2015/02/20/making-a-16th-century-kirtle-part-two/ GOOGLE IS YOUR FRIEND. Btw, try please, thank you etc The lack of gratitude in many of you for her hard work & *free* video is revealing.
I love this but can I make this but not with all of the boning but maybe 6 or 5
i am sure other people have already asked this but is it possible for me to find this pattern somewhere? and is part two already uploaded?
Oh also do you recommend any good period clothing books, manuals, or seamstress guides? Thanks
Your enthusiasm is fantastic, I really encourage you to continue to grow as a costumer, however?? Have you read any books from Janet Arnold? Or Jean Hunesett? I also recommend the Books and resources of Tudor Tailor, as well as Margo Anderson's patterns. This is a flat lining example have you worked with bag lining yet? Also the materials you are using are very vague, I would suggest if you are going to wear this to a Faire or SCA type thing? Natural fibers should be used, the polyester outside you will roast, natural fibers will keep you warm in winter and cooler in the heat of Summer. Good Luck, I love making clthing from the 16th Century and other parts of the past!
I am in love with this kirtle . Can I make and wear it nowadays with a white shirt ?
Why not? Go ahead!
I love this so much! Which page did you base this pattern on in Corsets and crinolines?
I can't find Part Two of this kirtle. Please send a link. Thank you for all the tutorials. I find them fascinating. I made a Civil War garment from the skin out when I reenacted the Battle of Shiloh.
I love this format of video!!!
Emma Ashby
May GOD BLESS YOU!!!
I honesty would wear the bodice alone for history bounding with a separate and 1930’s-40’s length/styled skirt
Because it’s a corset and it’s tight how many inches should I take off my normal size?
This isn't really meant to reduce anything, so go for the measurement guide on the pattern
What sort of foot is that? I really like its maneuverability.
I think it is a zipper foot. I could be wrong as I do not have a lot of of experience with sewing machines, but it is my understanding that when people talk about zipper feet they talk about feet that are quite narrow, too make them easier to maneuver close to the zipper teeth.
I agree that it's a zipper foot, but it looks sturdier than many that I've seen. It might just be a particular foot that comes with an industrial sewing machine. I'll keep looking around. :)
It looks to be a right hinged cord foot, and it’s a presser foot not walking foot. This one specifically is made for industrials but you can find equivalents for domestic machines. Just make sure if you do find a foot like this it can fit on your machine and specifies that it isn’t meant for an industrial
Pleas can chaw as haw did u drow the Pattren
You have beautiful hands and nails!
could hacking a stays pattern to where it's similar work?
So , have you ha e made a project that was a complete mess. I ask because you always do such detailed work.
where do you get all the templates from?
What is the name of the foot you used to sew the boning? I really want one of those, as I always seem to make my seam allowances way too big. Thank you! I love your videos a lot and they gave me motivation to start sewing
Bownie Tomazini zipper foot
Did you do the video of part 2?
how long did this take to make?
Did you ever make the part two? :O I'm on the edge of my seat here, hehe
where can i get the pattern?
Hi, loving the videos but where's part 2?
Where is the second part?
Why won’t she make a part 2?
Did you abandon this project? Where is the rest?
Hi! Just wondering...have you created anything Celtic or a dress similar to that one worn by Keira Knightley in King Arthur (something really loose) I would totally love to see that. You're extremely talented :)
I actually made her dress from the movie! Mine doesn't look terrific because I made it with liner fabric before I knew better, but it's a very simple dress to make. I found the tutorial on Pinterest, I'll see if I can track it down again!
Do you take classes or are you self taught?
Is there a part two?
aww angela you inspired me ! :)
Sans Rey
I was wondering if the foot that she used have a specific name...
Délalie-Djifa Gbeassor-Fiset it is a simple zipper foot for industrial machine
LET ME BE YOUR APPRENTICE!!!
For people looking for the rest of the tutorial. This is all she made, she lost interest in it lol. I feel like the ending piecing is pretty wearable but you can always refer to other examples to finish a piece like this.
where is part 2?????
I wish we could see this on yo hand moving, not just in the thumbnail. Overall loved it though!
This looks soo easy but it's not (for me )
👍👍👍👍💛
So you keep the information of how to make the pattern to yourself, nice.
I think it was a commercial pattern (at least looked like one)
Sonofabitch, there's no part two!
Where can I get this pattern ?????