Absolutely the best mechanic EVER !!!!!!!!!!!! I got my rubbing derailleur (front mech) sorted for tomorrows Fondo sorted in no time. CLEAR, concise, exact steps all the details none of the BS every time. Thank you so much
I come back to these videos a lot because they're so helpful. Thanks for making them! I used your 105 install guide but just got an ultegra FD so glad you have this guide as well
I just changed my FD from the first generation long arm FD8000, which never worked well, to this newer version and followed your installation instructions, and it works perfectly. Thank you for taking the time to create these videos. From Toronto, Canada.
Thanks very much for all your videos, they are great. I was struggling with the high limit screw, thinking I missed a step (tightening the screw increases derailleur range of travel - argh). It's in your video, but perhaps a little earlier woudl have been helpful - I kept going back to see if I'd missed a step. Awesome vids, as always
I ended up sanding the plastic skid plate of the outer plate where the big ring is. This seems to have helped me to get just a bit better clearance between the high/low ranges of the cassette. This derailleur seems to have some really tight tolerances. My old 10 speed front derailleur was much easier to set up but maybe I just got lucky.
Big thanks....this tutorial is great.....I never would have known about lining up those 2 white lines which turns out is quite critical as it sets the first trim position of the derailleur. Although there are "forbidden" gear combinations I'm actually able to make any and all combos without chain rub now......I'm not even sure my LBS could have gotten this one right.
Good job explaining this. All four of my bikes are 1x. I just bought another bike with a front derailleur . . . it's only a matter of time before I get rid of the front derailleur.
What a helpful video thank you so much! Regarding 16:00, if I want to reset the cable tension, do I ALWAYS need to loose the pinch bolt and repeat the process? I mean can I leave everything as it is and only to turn tension bolt either direction to increase or decrease cable tension? Because my bike hasn’t got a cable inline barrel adjuster . Not sure my question makes sense or not. lol
Once the initial set up is done correctly, you only need to occasionally screw the screw in to compensate for the slack in the system due to wear (align the lines). No need to touch the pinch bolt.
Brilliant job at explaining everything one needs to know about this quirky FD. The Shimano shop manual is rubbish compared to the details in this and all F2C videos. Adjusting this FD w/o this video will try one’s patience, to put it mildly. Thanks from Connecticut, US.
My low screw is almost all the way out and the chain is still contacting the inner guide when in small ring/large sprocket. On the flip-side, my high screw is all the way in. What am I doing wrong?
Great video! I encountered these issues with the front derailleur. It's like there is just not enough clearance between the crank arm and derailleur to run in fastest gear, without rub or striking crank arm. The mind boggles, this is on a ridley helium.
Seriously, I can't believe it's possible to make a near 30 minute instructional video about setting up a front mech! Shimano have seriously over complicated what is in essence, a very simple bit of kit! Jesus...🤦🏻♂️ Good video mate, well done! ✌️
i'm a long time viewer you have great knowledge. I have followed all your steps and on the work stand its great, but out on the open road on hills it just doesn't go into the big ring. any suggestions.
All fine except this : From 52 to 36 chain going in the middle on chainrings , when i use 3 last small sprockets (11 - 12 -14 ) screw limits seems ok. That screw next to cable doesnt set the 2 lines completely straight. It seems it dont work . Any thoughts?
When setting angle, do i line up the lower indented portion of the front of the cage (the part that goes inboard) with the chainring or the portion just above it that protrudes out and inline with the rest of the cage going rearwards? If that makes sense? I have been lining up the most outboard part of cage for height/angle but get rub in big front/small rear after setting limits and cable tension. White lines match well, so tension is good (i think…)
Hello everyone, Thank you to the author for this passionate and very enriching video. I just received a new bike fitted with the ultegra r8000 groupset and i had to make some adjustments to the front and rear derailleurs. Now after resuming the settings I notice that the rear face of the crank when I am on the large chainring is 1mm from the front derailleur plate (1.5mm in trim position). Do you think this is acceptable or too close? I would point out that in the factory delivery the crank was touching very lightly. Best regards.
Thanks for this..I couldn't figure out Shimano's instruction sheet. My guess is this gawdawful, Rube Goldberg device was designed for bikes with totally internal cable routing? They needed tension adjustment somewhere so they put it at the anchor bolt. Seems like an advertisement for 1X or Di2 as this thing's a real PITA!!!
I'm a fan of you. Thanks for doing these. Is it okay that the gap of the FD and the crank arm when set to the highest chain ring have 1mm gap? It doesnt touch though
hello everyone, if i understood correctly with regard to the outer plate the front must be parallel to the teeth of the chainring and the back of the plate slightly inward towards the bike or slightly beyond the chainring? can the rear of the plate be adjusted with the derailleur cable attached? If yes, how? thank you in advance.
i cant get the 2 white adjustment lines to match up. i've clamped the bolt many times over, pulled the cable tight, but the top white line is way to the right. when the adjustment bolt is all the way in, the top white line is still a bit to the right of the bottom line and does not match up. I've had this derailuer for 2 years on 2 bikes and always the same problem. any ideas why the 2 white lines do not match up? 3 bike mechanics adjusted this for me, and do not know all these rules about the ultegra 8000 and the adjustment lines, and they dont care and dont bother to find out. they just adjust it the old fashioned way without the white lines lined up, and say "if it works, it works". any help is appreciated. EDIT: i got it to work by using an inline barrel adjuster, which took extra slack off and they lined up.
Before you tighten the bolt make sure the stop is positioned correctly.The stop should engage with the adjustment screw otherwise tensioning is not possible. I had the same problem.
I'm having a feckn NIGHTMARE with ABSOLUTE CRAP oval chainrings!! I even went out and bought new front and rear derailleurs (di2 8050) but STILL... I get a slight rubbing!! and it drives me feckn nuts!! I have tried everything!!! Followed every youtube (incl. yours) to the letter... but I still get this slight chain rub when in the large chainring and the smallest sprocket (last 2 small sprockets!) and if I correct them ever so slightly.. then the chain won't change from the smaller to bigger chainring!! I'ver now just been out in the pishing rain all day to test and decided feck it!! It'll need to do!! It's only slight! but at the cost of all these items (£205 for Absolute CRAP ovals ; £420 for both derailleurs) well, you'd think my ride would be in silence!! eh!! Maybe I should chuck the AB chainrings in the skip!!
You can micro adjust the front derailleur, make sure the firmware is updated and then set the chain in the big/big combination to make the adjustment. It will only work in that combination!
@@FreeToCycle Yeah, thanks.. I did it.. and it's best it's been.. but still not perfect. I might just shove my ordinary chainset again.. I followed the AB tutorials to the letter with adjustments...This bike was rigged up originally with 9070 di2's but I changed the front and rear derailleur to ultegra 8050 and I just bought new battery BT-DN110-A, which I read meant I could then go on e-tube version 5.. but first I went onto the older version on e-tube project and I made sure all my 9070 parts (incl the BCR2 charger) were upgraded to latest firmware (which I did) but then I tried to load onto E-tube ver 5.. but it still won't work.. I just keep getting the message my BCR2 isn't compatible... eh? any ideas on why? I mean, I bought this new BT-DN110-A battery for this reason only... cheers
sigh, came to this video because I've never seen cable attachment & routing of a derailleur like this before. But instead of skipping forward, I decided to watch the whole thing. I get to the point where you say the rear should be 1mm further back than front, so I stop video walk down to my shop, losen derailleur and set with 1mm rear inwards and come back to finish video. THEN you say this wasn't for band clamps;-(. Walk back out & set it the way it was before. Don't mean to compain, as I love the info, just would have saved me 25 minutes if you said braze-on at the start. Funny.
I can't believe how excellent of a tutorial this is. Thank you so much!
Complete. Nothing left out. I like his tutorials! Thanks for sharing and helping home bicycle mechanics like me....
Absolutely the best mechanic EVER !!!!!!!!!!!! I got my rubbing derailleur (front mech) sorted for tomorrows Fondo sorted in no time. CLEAR, concise, exact steps all the details none of the BS every time. Thank you so much
Second time I’ve used this guide. Thanks once again!
Thanks! Real helpful for this and as well for changing my chain rings on your other video.
this video is a life saver, clear and concise. Makes me confident to go out to the garage and get the setup nailed.
Thankyou. Always struggled getting my front mech perfect. Nailed it after watching this video. 🤟
i'll review this again prior to installation.. thank you so much ! edit- best detailed install for this ever.. it is much appreciated!!
I come back to these videos a lot because they're so helpful. Thanks for making them! I used your 105 install guide but just got an ultegra FD so glad you have this guide as well
Brilliant channel, not ashamed to say that I use it continually while working on my bikes. Thanks from Calgary, Canada!
I just changed my FD from the first generation long arm FD8000, which never worked well, to this newer version and followed your installation instructions, and it works perfectly. Thank you for taking the time to create these videos. From Toronto, Canada.
Thanks - I’ve always hated adjusting my r8000 front derailer, but you explained that really well. Much appreciated
Brilliant, I’ve learned something here and saved some money. I was completely stumped before I watched this. Appreciate the video!
Thanks very much for all your videos, they are great. I was struggling with the high limit screw, thinking I missed a step (tightening the screw increases derailleur range of travel - argh). It's in your video, but perhaps a little earlier woudl have been helpful - I kept going back to see if I'd missed a step. Awesome vids, as always
I ended up sanding the plastic skid plate of the outer plate where the big ring is. This seems to have helped me to get just a bit better clearance between the high/low ranges of the cassette. This derailleur seems to have some really tight tolerances. My old 10 speed front derailleur was much easier to set up but maybe I just got lucky.
best video of the subject on the platform. Thank you!
the most important advice is: shift to your lowest chainring before tying the cable
Perfect. Exactly what I needed to get me shifting again. Thank you.
Big thanks....this tutorial is great.....I never would have known about lining up those 2 white lines which turns out is quite critical as it sets the first trim position of the derailleur. Although there are "forbidden" gear combinations I'm actually able to make any and all combos without chain rub now......I'm not even sure my LBS could have gotten this one right.
Thanks (yet again).
Great presentation! Exactly outlines the performance issues I have experienced with Shimano derailleurs. Thank you.
The best video on this topic. However many say this design shifts very hard.😮
Thanks a lot for this video! Already thought something was broken or wrong with my derailleur. Now everything seems to work as it should.
Great video, I was recently changing cables and couldn't stop chain rubbing until I watched this and use your tip about L screw. Thank you!
wow you literaly saved me. Huge thanks, you're the boss
Excellent! Great detail…got my wonky derailleur sorted!
Awesome thanks worked perfectly when I installed my new derailleur..
Good job explaining this. All four of my bikes are 1x. I just bought another bike with a front derailleur . . . it's only a matter of time before I get rid of the front derailleur.
I ❤❤❤ your videos, just straight tech talk and no bullshit, so helpful, have a nice day!
Another great video - great tip about low screw before and after cable attachment. 👍
Great video thanks, I've always built my own bikes but this new fangled derailleur had me baffled, of and I threw away the plastic top cap!
Thank you for making this video. It’s so clear and easy to understand - easily the best of the 5 I watched.
Thank you for the great video, very informative and easy to understand.
Excellent thanks again for another really well explained tutorial!
Thanks so much for thorough tutorial. Helped a lot.
This was great!! Detailed and easy to see everything needed to do .....Thanks!!
Thanks for the Video Sir.. Very educational for a bike dude like me
Your vids are the best, super detailed! Always learn something new not like a lot of those generic installation videos out there. big kudo's 👍
What a helpful video thank you so much! Regarding 16:00, if I want to reset the cable tension, do I ALWAYS need to loose the pinch bolt and repeat the process? I mean can I leave everything as it is and only to turn tension bolt either direction to increase or decrease cable tension? Because my bike hasn’t got a cable inline barrel adjuster . Not sure my question makes sense or not. lol
Once the initial set up is done correctly, you only need to occasionally screw the screw in to compensate for the slack in the system due to wear (align the lines). No need to touch the pinch bolt.
Great one! I'm all into my new R8000 setup soon! Yummmy.....
Thanks!
Well explained and what a great accent! You're a legend mate, cheers!
👍
Very helpful video. Thanks a lot for making it!
Thanks for the great tips video,it helped me a lot.
Really good video, many thanks
thank you this was what I needed
Superb bike-tech videos, thanks a lot!
Brilliant job at explaining everything one needs to know about this quirky FD. The Shimano shop manual is rubbish compared to the details in this and all F2C videos. Adjusting this FD w/o this video will try one’s patience, to put it mildly. Thanks from Connecticut, US.
My low screw is almost all the way out and the chain is still contacting the inner guide when in small ring/large sprocket. On the flip-side, my high screw is all the way in. What am I doing wrong?
Great video! I encountered these issues with the front derailleur. It's like there is just not enough clearance between the crank arm and derailleur to run in fastest gear, without rub or striking crank arm. The mind boggles, this is on a ridley helium.
Really informative vlog, thanks.👍
Seriously, I can't believe it's possible to make a near 30 minute instructional video about setting up a front mech! Shimano have seriously over complicated what is in essence, a very simple bit of kit! Jesus...🤦🏻♂️
Good video mate, well done! ✌️
i'm a long time viewer you have great knowledge. I have followed all your steps and on the work stand its great, but out on the open road on hills it just doesn't go into the big ring. any suggestions.
Great guide appreciate it!
All fine except this : From 52 to 36 chain going in the middle on chainrings , when i use 3 last small sprockets (11 - 12 -14 ) screw limits seems ok. That screw next to cable doesnt set the 2 lines completely straight. It seems it dont work . Any thoughts?
When setting angle, do i line up the lower indented portion of the front of the cage (the part that goes inboard) with the chainring or the portion just above it that protrudes out and inline with the rest of the cage going rearwards? If that makes sense? I have been lining up the most outboard part of cage for height/angle but get rub in big front/small rear after setting limits and cable tension. White lines match well, so tension is good (i think…)
Just a quick question sir... How much MM would you adjust the FD when your swapping Chain Ring set from 52/46 to 53/49.... TIA..
Hello everyone,
Thank you to the author for this passionate and very enriching video.
I just received a new bike fitted with the ultegra r8000 groupset and i had to make some adjustments to the front and rear derailleurs.
Now after resuming the settings I notice that the rear face of the crank when I am on the large chainring is 1mm from the front derailleur plate (1.5mm in trim position).
Do you think this is acceptable or too close? I would point out that in the factory delivery the crank was touching very lightly.
Best regards.
Great videos thank you
Thanks for this..I couldn't figure out Shimano's instruction sheet. My guess is this gawdawful, Rube Goldberg device was designed for bikes with totally internal cable routing? They needed tension adjustment somewhere so they put it at the anchor bolt. Seems like an advertisement for 1X or Di2 as this thing's a real PITA!!!
I'm a fan of you. Thanks for doing these. Is it okay that the gap of the FD and the crank arm when set to the highest chain ring have 1mm gap? It doesnt touch though
hello everyone, if i understood correctly with regard to the outer plate the front must be parallel to the teeth of the chainring and the back of the plate slightly inward towards the bike or slightly beyond the chainring? can the rear of the plate be adjusted with the derailleur cable attached? If yes, how? thank you in advance.
i cant get the 2 white adjustment lines to match up. i've clamped the bolt many times over, pulled the cable tight, but the top white line is way to the right. when the adjustment bolt is all the way in, the top white line is still a bit to the right of the bottom line and does not match up. I've had this derailuer for 2 years on 2 bikes and always the same problem. any ideas why the 2 white lines do not match up? 3 bike mechanics adjusted this for me, and do not know all these rules about the ultegra 8000 and the adjustment lines, and they dont care and dont bother to find out. they just adjust it the old fashioned way without the white lines lined up, and say "if it works, it works". any help is appreciated.
EDIT: i got it to work by using an inline barrel adjuster, which took extra slack off and they lined up.
Before you tighten the bolt make sure the stop is positioned correctly.The stop should engage with the adjustment screw otherwise tensioning is not possible.
I had the same problem.
@@ronbobo8772 hi which bolt and stop are you referring to?
thank you, good help
why does shimano say to adjust the high limit when it's on the largest cog at the rear? why they make me do this?! :'(
I'm having a feckn NIGHTMARE with ABSOLUTE CRAP oval chainrings!! I even went out and bought new front and rear derailleurs (di2 8050) but STILL... I get a slight rubbing!! and it drives me feckn nuts!! I have tried everything!!! Followed every youtube (incl. yours) to the letter... but I still get this slight chain rub when in the large chainring and the smallest sprocket (last 2 small sprockets!) and if I correct them ever so slightly.. then the chain won't change from the smaller to bigger chainring!! I'ver now just been out in the pishing rain all day to test and decided feck it!! It'll need to do!! It's only slight! but at the cost of all these items (£205 for Absolute CRAP ovals ; £420 for both derailleurs) well, you'd think my ride would be in silence!! eh!! Maybe I should chuck the AB chainrings in the skip!!
You can micro adjust the front derailleur, make sure the firmware is updated and then set the chain in the big/big combination to make the adjustment. It will only work in that combination!
@@FreeToCycle Yeah, thanks.. I did it.. and it's best it's been.. but still not perfect. I might just shove my ordinary chainset again.. I followed the AB tutorials to the letter with adjustments...This bike was rigged up originally with 9070 di2's but I changed the front and rear derailleur to ultegra 8050 and I just bought new battery BT-DN110-A, which I read meant I could then go on e-tube version 5.. but first I went onto the older version on e-tube project and I made sure all my 9070 parts (incl the BCR2 charger) were upgraded to latest firmware (which I did) but then I tried to load onto E-tube ver 5.. but it still won't work.. I just keep getting the message my BCR2 isn't compatible... eh? any ideas on why? I mean, I bought this new BT-DN110-A battery for this reason only... cheers
Great !!
I couldn't get the low screw, on the small ring off the derailleur. Back to the drawing board. 🥵
sigh, came to this video because I've never seen cable attachment & routing of a derailleur like this before. But instead of skipping forward, I decided to watch the whole thing. I get to the point where you say the rear should be 1mm further back than front, so I stop video walk down to my shop, losen derailleur and set with 1mm rear inwards and come back to finish video. THEN you say this wasn't for band clamps;-(. Walk back out & set it the way it was before. Don't mean to compain, as I love the info, just would have saved me 25 minutes if you said braze-on at the start. Funny.
*Does the job*
Thank You!
Thanks!