Great video! For those looking to do the same tune on the bed you can use M303 E-1 S60. The E-1 tells the printer to test the bed (E0 was for hotend) and S60 tells to test to 60 Celsius. You set these values by using M304 just like setting the hotend temps with M301. Then M500 to save like Brian shows.
@@dedogster Use M303 EBED C6 S60. It appears as if some older versions of Marlin don't like the E-1. Set the bed PID with the M304 Pxx Ixx Dxx command using the calculated values. Don't forget to M500 to save settings.
@@StewKeto3DPrinting Dang, was trying to get the same to work on Aquila X2,.. typed command, clicked to Octoprints temperature tab,... and the Extruders showing 60 deg, bed at ambient.
I can't put to words how helpful it is that you break down piece by piece what each command does. I've seen many a video just gloss over that and it leaves me with no confidence in what I'm doing. I consider myself pretty tech-savvy but even I struggle to grasp this stuff sometimes.
Video saved me once again. I followed your instructions a year ago and just installed a new hot end. The hot end is the same brand but I could tell the PID was off a bit. Found your video and did it over. Thanks.
You have a 6th sense of knowing what I’ve been putting off. Last time it was the wire end ferrules, which I completed after your last video, and now it’s PID tuning. I have no excuse to put it off anymore thanks!
Phenomenal video and swift information. I know I'm 3 years late, but I appreciate your breakdown of everything, including the codes and what they mean.
Recently found your channel while upgrading my printer. The 2 videos I've seen of yours were concise and easy to understand. Best videos on the topics. Good job!
oh my god this video literally saved my business haha i was so scared my printer wouldnt work right again. THANK YOU for taking the scary out of Pid Tuning!!!!
Thank you man, this was really useful in helping me figure out my problem. If anybody is overshooting their nozzle temp by 30+ degrees it could mean that you're using a 12v heater instead of a 24v one. So that's what all that blue smoke was.
Thanks! I've been getting thermal runaway, so I'm using that as an excuse to replace my board, extruder, and thermistor, etc. I'll be running through this test later today and will let you know how it goes! Appreciate how simple your video was. It helps me feel more prepared, less intimidated, etc.
Love a good PID Tune video. I would add make sure your Slicer is closed, otherwise Pronterface will fail to connect. Remember each laptop sticker adds 5% more processing power!
Great tip (particularly about the stickers; the Ethan Makes sticker adds 10%)! 😉 Also, while not a slicing feature per se, it might be cool if slicers included a terminal window which could be used to issue commands directly to a printer via USB.
2 роки тому+1
My hotend temperature got so stable what I belived the display had froze... 😂 Thanks for the video!
I just set up my 2nd Ender 3 Pro, and out of the box the Hot end temp was bouncing. When set to 205 I was seeing it go from 201-209. Ran this process and now it sits at a steady temp like it should. One thing to mention about pronterface, make sure you don't have another slicer program open, or it won't connect to your printer. I didn't realize I still had Cura open in the back ground and was going crazy trying to figure out why I couldn't connect. Once I closed that, everything worked like it was supposed to. Thank you so much for this video.
This explains so much as I regularly used to swap SD cards between my Ender 3's and my Pro 3D V-King and I got problems that magically went away when I set up Octopi on my V-King
The decision to store the settings on the card was an odd one. I read that someone asked Creality why, and Creality said their engineers didn't do it to conserve space on the microcontroller's on-board storage. But the file is significantly less than 1K bytes, and other, possibly more feature-rich third-party firmware builds are available which DO store the settings on the board, so...? Anyway, thanks for watching, Andrew! 🙂
Amen Andrew I found this out no joke 3 weeks ago and this video is 7 months old I'm late to the 3D printing game but I was completely taken aback by the fact the settings were saved on the SD
Think of the challenge that birthed the PID process/math being you and your friend in a car trying to drive a constant speed...you're driving but your friend is the only one that can see the speedometer. Your friend tells you faster or slower as they see the speed on the gauge. If you are in a F1 racer, you're going to have a different experience than if you and your friend were in a Chevy Spark. The PID process can be thought of as a mechanism that attaches to the gas pedal of the F1 so the results of accelerating/decelerating are not so dramatic.
This was perfect! I had a machine that I was getting overtemp errors on so I changed entire hot end (just easier since I had 2 spares in my parts) and still got the error. I found your video through ALL3DP and followed it to the letter and so far success. Hope I am not premature but looks great so far. Thank you so much for the content. Now on to the next problem. I upgraded one machine to 4.2.7 silent board and smoked the board on power up. Have a short somewhere I have to find before I smoke another $40.00
That was super straight forward, thank you. Even when I read the official documentation, I just need a UA-cam video to walk me through it just in case. I mean worst case scenario, my house burns down with me in it, so I'm hesitant to mess with the thermistor tuning.
Hi, i have a issue, I have Mriscoc firmware, when i type M503 in pronterface, dont show me the 301 line, and M303 command get an error "auto tune failed! Bad extruder". Please what can i do with this, please answer me as son as posible
I fought with windows, for an hour, to try and get it to recognize my ender 3. If it doesn't show up as a USB serial port then this software (or cura or anything else won't connect). I installed the drivers and did a ton of troubleshooting, to no avail. In the end I used my android phone with otg cable and the Serial USB Terminal app to connect and send the commands described in this video. Worked like a charm and I didn't need to fight with windows, drivers, really old software, etc.
is it possible to do one of these tunes on the print bed I can't seem to find out how to do it. I am running my 3d printer off of Octo print and I have a tevo tornado.
Great video. Thank you for explaining things clearly, just one question. I've now pid tuned my creality ender 3 v2 neo (with purely the stock parts it comes with) to 215 °c and have just finished my first print since the tune. The extruder temperature has remained constant all besides a single point at the very start where it dropped by one degree, that was until the very end where i once again ran into the "hot end temp too low" issue that i used the pid tine to try and fix. I have no idea how it immediately came back at the end of the print and almost caused it to snap in half as the extruder lost its position once i manually shut it off from the switch due to the noise. Do you have any idea how i can fix my issue or what else could be causing the issue? Should i just use my 1 year warranty and try to get a replacement?
A good month of replacing parts to fix the issue and it was the PID all a long.....of course I had no idea about PID until enough searches brought me here! 30 min later and temp is locked it!
I saw the notification pop up so I AUTOmagically TUNEd in to watch the Person In the know about harD things! Great video Bryan! P.S. and here i thought PID loops were only for robots....oh YEAH! These are robots! very specific robots, but robots none-the-less. :-) P.P.S Love the t-shirt!
Awesome explanation! Been having this problem all day, no other videos/websites even suggested this as a factor and I'm going to be doing this right away!
Had Heating failed error after doing this, it performed well in the tune test. I will double check I did it right and try again, only thing left to change out is the power supply.
Thanks! My silicone boot sht the bed and my printer kept going into thermal runaway protect. This worked perf! If the printer doesn’t connect do a restart on your pc and make sure you’re using a sync cable.
Perfect! Thank you so much! I had to go in and adjust the PID_MAX before tuning, darn thing was waaaaay over shooting at first, like enter 220 and out came 270 and the tune would fail.
Great video, I just installed a new hot end and I was getting the exact same behavior. I thought I messed up something with the thermistor. Followed your steps and temperature is now steady :)
*deep breath* thank you. I think this got it fixed....LMAO I swear, most of my 3d printing saved list is you, dr vax, and chep teaching me how to put this lil guy back together...repeatedly...
Sure thing, Corey Mac! Thanks for watching! I kinda wanted to highlight that it was out there, for people who have newer versions of macOS and think they can't run it. 😃
Thanks for the video. I've run into an issue at 6:55s on Mac. Of the possible port connections and baudrates, the only one that offers any feedback is tty.usb with 250000. However, it appears to only running a partial retrieval. Some information is given, but ends with "...echo:; Mesh Insets and leveling settings: Got rubbish reply from /dev/tty.usbserial-1430 at baudrate 250000: Maybe a bad baudrate?" I'm not finding anything with "M301." Has anyone else run into this?
I connected the usb cable that was previously connected to octopi (raspberry pi usb - other end connected to ender 3 v2) and plugged it into the usb port on my laptop. When i run pronterface. I only see COM3 in the port connection, there is nort option to select usb? Any help please
Oh! If you've already got Octopi set up, use the Terminal tab in there to send the commands and see the responses. Check the box to *_Suppress temperature messages_* so the terminal window isn't flooded with status information.
@@BV3D Tried as suggested, got the following error Send: M303 E0 S220 Recv: PID Autotune start [...] Recv: Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0 Changing monitoring state from "Operational" to "Error" Send: M112 Send: N2 M112*35 Send: N3 M104 T0 S0*34 Send: N4 M140 S0*97 Changing monitoring state from "Error" to "Offline after error" Connection closed, closing down monitor
@@ravkhangurra7522 Forgive the question, but is the printer plugged into power, and its power switch on? Or is its motherboard being powered via USB by the Raspberry Pi?
@@BV3D Thanks Brian, not sure what hppened, , i tried it again, now getting flat lines at the resective temperature settings. Once again thanks for your help. Time to do some test prints!
Thank you very much. I just changed my extruder/hot end for an sprite pro kit and observed my printer wasn't able to lock in the temperature. I'll make a PID autotune as soon as I get back home tonight.
Hello dear staff I contacted you from Iran My device is cat This tutorial and your other tutorials were very useful and solved all my problems I wanted to thank you for all your hard work Thank you very much I wish my country was not embargoed so that I could support you thank you
Great video. Works just as well on an ender 3 v1. Just changed to a Revo CR quick change nozzle and needed to run the pid but hadn't ever done it before. Didn't realize marlin had an a pid autotune built in.
@@NateRidderman very happy so far. Super easy to install and works exactly as advertised so far. I took the suggestion of another channel and changed my end gcode to always retract the filament into the Bowden so when I want to change nozzles before a print I don't have to heat it up at all. I've done prints with the 0.25, 0.4, and 0.8 and after tuning my slicer settings for each it's been as expected without having to relevel between nozzle changes.
Thanks alot! I was facing this issue where my Ender 3 V2 was unable to maintain nozzle temp. I changed the thermistor twice, check all the connections, changed the hotend, reinstalled the firmware. After auto tuning PID settings, the issue seems to have resolved.
Something I found out while trying to connect laptop to printer is not all micro usb cords are the same. I had to find one that would do data transfer. Some are power only cords.
The PID auto tuning did not solve my temperature drop problem in the hot end during printing. It is not due to thermal runaway. But due to insufficient current from the power supply unit
@6:40 of your video, I'm having an issue on the port menu not showing anything (running windows) even though Ender 3 is on, connected to computer via USB, and pronterface is open and running? Any advice in getting it to recognize a port?
Hi, you may need to install a USB-serial driver like the CH340 driver. Here's a link to it over on TH3DStudio. www.th3dstudio.com/hc/downloads/drivers/ch340-drivers-th3d-uno-creality-v1-1-x-v4-2-x-board/
Ok good to know, must be something wrong with my board it's also 4.2.2 and it didn't work, had to reinstall the old heater block which the nozzle threads are starting to strip. Thanks for the reply.
Should I do a PID tune if my nozzle flexes -1 degree and over +1 degree periodically. Not much of a difference but I did do a microswiss hotend upgrade 8 months ago but never did one and prints ok. Also does this test how “True” my temperature is set to when I set to a degree of let’s say 220C like does it test to see if it’s actually at 220C
It sounds like your PID values are correct for your hot end. If it's continually going + or - 5 degrees or more, I'd consider running a PID autotune, but with a + or - 1 degree variance, you're right where you need to be.
Hi Brian. I am only a new subscriber to your channel, and i want to thank you for the great way you manage your tutorials. They are very entertaining and insightful. I have learned so much and am still learning more about 3d printing and now also about Arduino! I am recently retired and I believe if i dont use it i will lose it. However with your help that won't happen. I can even forgive you the " dad " jokes . 😂 Keep up the great work. Greetings from Australia 🦘 Cheers. Ray
Is it possible to have the pid tuning getting wrong withouth changing the hot end? I'm using a stock ender 3 v2, just changed firmware from factory to jyers, and recently my hotend temp has started oscillating. Should I try an autotune?
The Jyers firmware may store the PID values in a different part of the printer's EEPROM than the stock firmware does, so it's probably a good idea to do the PID auto tune. I've just started looking at Jyers, and I think it has a PID tune option in one of its menus. Look around and see!
I am having a similar issue on a e3pro that I'm trying to fix for a client. it would not throw thermal runaway, but it would jump well past the set temp and drop, and the print would never start. So I replaced the thermistor, but the problem still existed. The client asked me to swap out the board and see if that helped it did kind of. The temp now jumps 30c past desired temp but then goes to the set temp and stays at desired temp and it will print now.
Bryan, I have a CR-20 that the hot end keeps getting hotter and hotter. I have already replaced the hot end with a new one. Someone told me I need to run PID autotune. I get the following error in Pronterface: SENDING:M303 E0 S220 C3 PID Autotune failed! Temperature too high PID Autotune start PID Autotune failed! Temperature too high echo:Unknown command: "MM105" I have no idea where to go from here. Thank you for any help.
Now there is actually an option in the configuration menu, advanced settings has a "PID Autotune" that you just select and it runs the tuning by itself... but thanks for the the detailed video as always.
Great video! For those looking to do the same tune on the bed you can use M303 E-1 S60. The E-1 tells the printer to test the bed (E0 was for hotend) and S60 tells to test to 60 Celsius. You set these values by using M304 just like setting the hotend temps with M301. Then M500 to save like Brian shows.
Quick question, how do you get those commands
THANK YOU
I've tried PID tuning the bed but I get an error about the heater not being there. Not sure what I'm doing wrong
@@dedogster Use M303 EBED C6 S60. It appears as if some older versions of Marlin don't like the E-1. Set the bed PID with the M304 Pxx Ixx Dxx command using the calculated values. Don't forget to M500 to save settings.
@@StewKeto3DPrinting Dang, was trying to get the same to work on Aquila X2,.. typed command, clicked to Octoprints temperature tab,... and the Extruders showing 60 deg, bed at ambient.
I've watched a few videos on PID tuning, and this was by far the most concise and easiest to follow. Great work.
Agreed! very thorough! with the added bonus of snark and humor!
Agreed. But if this was the non-chatty version....damn!
I can't put to words how helpful it is that you break down piece by piece what each command does. I've seen many a video just gloss over that and it leaves me with no confidence in what I'm doing. I consider myself pretty tech-savvy but even I struggle to grasp this stuff sometimes.
With a little farm of 5 cheap and cranky printers I revisit this video every couple of months, what a great resource! Thanks Bryan!
Video saved me once again. I followed your instructions a year ago and just installed a new hot end. The hot end is the same brand but I could tell the PID was off a bit. Found your video and did it over. Thanks.
You have a 6th sense of knowing what I’ve been putting off. Last time it was the wire end ferrules, which I completed after your last video, and now it’s PID tuning. I have no excuse to put it off anymore thanks!
Thank you! I don't have octoprint set up on my printer and most guides for auto tune use it. This saved me!
Happy to hear someone calling a PID by it's letters (P-I-D) and not like a single word (pid). As an engineer I approve this and got subscribed.
Phenomenal video and swift information. I know I'm 3 years late, but I appreciate your breakdown of everything, including the codes and what they mean.
This video saved my life....well my printer's life. Thank you!
Recently found your channel while upgrading my printer. The 2 videos I've seen of yours were concise and easy to understand. Best videos on the topics. Good job!
Thank you! 😃
This helped so much. I was getting poor quality shells and now they are paper smooth. Thank you.
oh my god this video literally saved my business haha i was so scared my printer wouldnt work right again. THANK YOU for taking the scary out of Pid Tuning!!!!
Wow I just did this and I am shocked how much of an improvement it made, especially on the first layer. Great video!
Thank you man, this was really useful in helping me figure out my problem. If anybody is overshooting their nozzle temp by 30+ degrees it could mean that you're using a 12v heater instead of a 24v one. So that's what all that blue smoke was.
Oh no! 😳
I learned many years ago in electronics school, all electronics run on smoke, you should never let the smoke out of them or they will stop working.
Thanks! I've been getting thermal runaway, so I'm using that as an excuse to replace my board, extruder, and thermistor, etc. I'll be running through this test later today and will let you know how it goes! Appreciate how simple your video was. It helps me feel more prepared, less intimidated, etc.
Love a good PID Tune video. I would add make sure your Slicer is closed, otherwise Pronterface will fail to connect. Remember each laptop sticker adds 5% more processing power!
Great tip (particularly about the stickers; the Ethan Makes sticker adds 10%)! 😉
Also, while not a slicing feature per se, it might be cool if slicers included a terminal window which could be used to issue commands directly to a printer via USB.
My hotend temperature got so stable what I belived the display had froze... 😂
Thanks for the video!
I just set up my 2nd Ender 3 Pro, and out of the box the Hot end temp was bouncing. When set to 205 I was seeing it go from 201-209. Ran this process and now it sits at a steady temp like it should. One thing to mention about pronterface, make sure you don't have another slicer program open, or it won't connect to your printer. I didn't realize I still had Cura open in the back ground and was going crazy trying to figure out why I couldn't connect. Once I closed that, everything worked like it was supposed to. Thank you so much for this video.
This explains so much as I regularly used to swap SD cards between my Ender 3's and my Pro 3D V-King and I got problems that magically went away when I set up Octopi on my V-King
The decision to store the settings on the card was an odd one. I read that someone asked Creality why, and Creality said their engineers didn't do it to conserve space on the microcontroller's on-board storage. But the file is significantly less than 1K bytes, and other, possibly more feature-rich third-party firmware builds are available which DO store the settings on the board, so...?
Anyway, thanks for watching, Andrew! 🙂
Amen Andrew I found this out no joke 3 weeks ago and this video is 7 months old I'm late to the 3D printing game but I was completely taken aback by the fact the settings were saved on the SD
Think of the challenge that birthed the PID process/math being you and your friend in a car trying to drive a constant speed...you're driving but your friend is the only one that can see the speedometer. Your friend tells you faster or slower as they see the speed on the gauge. If you are in a F1 racer, you're going to have a different experience than if you and your friend were in a Chevy Spark. The PID process can be thought of as a mechanism that attaches to the gas pedal of the F1 so the results of accelerating/decelerating are not so dramatic.
Just the video I needed to find after switching out my hotend hardware. Great stuff
This was perfect! I had a machine that I was getting overtemp errors on so I changed entire hot end (just easier since I had 2 spares in my parts) and still got the error. I found your video through ALL3DP and followed it to the letter and so far success. Hope I am not premature but looks great so far. Thank you so much for the content. Now on to the next problem. I upgraded one machine to 4.2.7 silent board and smoked the board on power up. Have a short somewhere I have to find before I smoke another $40.00
Thanks Brian a really helpful video after updating my Ender 6 hot end to a mosquito & Bondtech DDX. Great work.
Thank you for this video. By far the most useful and easiest video to follow. Great job keep it up!
You always have the video I need to fix my printers , thanks
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Its very informative. I will follow. You are a great teacher!!!!!
That was super straight forward, thank you. Even when I read the official documentation, I just need a UA-cam video to walk me through it just in case. I mean worst case scenario, my house burns down with me in it, so I'm hesitant to mess with the thermistor tuning.
Thank you so much for your help! I kept getting the heating failed error and this was the only thing that fixed it!
Hi, i have a issue, I have Mriscoc firmware, when i type M503 in pronterface, dont show me the 301 line, and M303 command get an error "auto tune failed! Bad extruder".
Please what can i do with this, please answer me as son as posible
Great video and was helpful even a year later. I like how the pro firmware has it now built in so can do it from the screen.
The best PID tuning video, thanks
Thank you for sharing this. Using this info has helped me improve the temps of my Ender 6 hot end.
thank you so much, this fixed all of my temprature problems on my printer
Saved again by the master himself. Thanks Bryan!
I fought with windows, for an hour, to try and get it to recognize my ender 3. If it doesn't show up as a USB serial port then this software (or cura or anything else won't connect). I installed the drivers and did a ton of troubleshooting, to no avail. In the end I used my android phone with otg cable and the Serial USB Terminal app to connect and send the commands described in this video. Worked like a charm and I didn't need to fight with windows, drivers, really old software, etc.
is it possible to do one of these tunes on the print bed I can't seem to find out how to do it. I am running my 3d printer off of Octo print and I have a tevo tornado.
Huge thanks, resolved 3 issues from my list at the same time
Thanx, this video was just what I was looking for!
Great video. Thank you for explaining things clearly, just one question. I've now pid tuned my creality ender 3 v2 neo (with purely the stock parts it comes with) to 215 °c and have just finished my first print since the tune. The extruder temperature has remained constant all besides a single point at the very start where it dropped by one degree, that was until the very end where i once again ran into the "hot end temp too low" issue that i used the pid tine to try and fix. I have no idea how it immediately came back at the end of the print and almost caused it to snap in half as the extruder lost its position once i manually shut it off from the switch due to the noise. Do you have any idea how i can fix my issue or what else could be causing the issue? Should i just use my 1 year warranty and try to get a replacement?
A good month of replacing parts to fix the issue and it was the PID all a long.....of course I had no idea about PID until enough searches brought me here! 30 min later and temp is locked it!
You made the procedure easy and simple enough, thanks a lot. It worked great, although I did it through OctoPrint terminal instead of pronterface
Great video. Was able t scroll trough step by step and solved my hot end issues. You're a life saver!
Glad it helped! 👍
I saw the notification pop up so I AUTOmagically TUNEd in to watch the Person In the know about harD things! Great video Bryan!
P.S. and here i thought PID loops were only for robots....oh YEAH! These are robots! very specific robots, but robots none-the-less. :-)
P.P.S Love the t-shirt!
Haha! I see what you did there with the capital letters. Yep, 3D printers are like robots with hot glue guns. 😉
perfect timing...I was puzzling over this problem on a board I installed just today
Awesome explanation! Been having this problem all day, no other videos/websites even suggested this as a factor and I'm going to be doing this right away!
Had Heating failed error after doing this, it performed well in the tune test. I will double check I did it right and try again, only thing left to change out is the power supply.
Thanks! My silicone boot sht the bed and my printer kept going into thermal runaway protect. This worked perf! If the printer doesn’t connect do a restart on your pc and make sure you’re using a sync cable.
Perfect! Thank you so much! I had to go in and adjust the PID_MAX before tuning, darn thing was waaaaay over shooting at first, like enter 220 and out came 270 and the tune would fail.
This is great info. I will be replacing my stock hotend on my Ender 3 Max with a Sprite kit today.
Great video, I just installed a new hot end and I was getting the exact same behavior. I thought I messed up something with the thermistor. Followed your steps and temperature is now steady :)
Glad it helped
Thank you very much for this comprehensive guide! I also used the PID Autotune on my heatbed for the ender 3v2 after putting an insulation beneath it.
I was getting the thermal runaway message constantly. After tuning the PID, I believe it fixed it. But also I updated marlin to 2.0.
Thank you. I managed to break my enders thermistor wire and had to change it . Hope this stabilizes the nozzle temperature.
Hopefully this gets things tuned back in. Keep me posted! 👍
Using your procedure, the hotend works very fine . Thanks.
*deep breath* thank you. I think this got it fixed....LMAO I swear, most of my 3d printing saved list is you, dr vax, and chep teaching me how to put this lil guy back together...repeatedly...
// get some stuff
M503
// test
M303 E0 S220 C3
// put values from above test below
M301 P#### I#### D####
// save
M500
Wow. Thanks so much for this video. Great job explaining it and walking us through each step.
Great video. Thanks for the info on Pronterface for Mac.
Sure thing, Corey Mac! Thanks for watching! I kinda wanted to highlight that it was out there, for people who have newer versions of macOS and think they can't run it. 😃
Thanks for the video. I've run into an issue at 6:55s on Mac. Of the possible port connections and baudrates, the only one that offers any feedback is tty.usb with 250000. However, it appears to only running a partial retrieval. Some information is given, but ends with "...echo:; Mesh Insets and leveling settings: Got rubbish reply from /dev/tty.usbserial-1430 at baudrate 250000: Maybe a bad baudrate?"
I'm not finding anything with "M301." Has anyone else run into this?
Awesome video! The step by step guide and explaining what each variable did was a tremendous help. Greatly appreciate it!
This fixed my problem! Thank you!!!!
A lot of thanks, your explanation was very clear, keep up the good work. Have a wonderful day!!
Thank you for demystifying this process for me. I appreciate all of the explanations and reasoning for doing things a specific way.
I connected the usb cable that was previously connected to octopi (raspberry pi usb - other end connected to ender 3 v2) and plugged it into the usb port on my laptop. When i run pronterface. I only see COM3 in the port connection, there is nort option to select usb? Any help please
Oh! If you've already got Octopi set up, use the Terminal tab in there to send the commands and see the responses. Check the box to *_Suppress temperature messages_* so the terminal window isn't flooded with status information.
@@BV3D Tried as suggested, got the following error Send: M303 E0 S220
Recv: PID Autotune start
[...]
Recv: Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0
Changing monitoring state from "Operational" to "Error"
Send: M112
Send: N2 M112*35
Send: N3 M104 T0 S0*34
Send: N4 M140 S0*97
Changing monitoring state from "Error" to "Offline after error"
Connection closed, closing down monitor
@@ravkhangurra7522 Forgive the question, but is the printer plugged into power, and its power switch on? Or is its motherboard being powered via USB by the Raspberry Pi?
@@BV3D Thanks Brian, not sure what hppened, , i tried it again, now getting flat lines at the resective temperature settings. Once again thanks for your help. Time to do some test prints!
Thank you very much.
I just changed my extruder/hot end for an sprite pro kit and observed my printer wasn't able to lock in the temperature.
I'll make a PID autotune as soon as I get back home tonight.
Hello dear staff
I contacted you from Iran
My device is cat
This tutorial and your other tutorials were very useful and solved all my problems
I wanted to thank you for all your hard work
Thank you very much
I wish my country was not embargoed so that I could support you
thank you
Great video. Works just as well on an ender 3 v1. Just changed to a Revo CR quick change nozzle and needed to run the pid but hadn't ever done it before. Didn't realize marlin had an a pid autotune built in.
Are you happy with the Revo CR? The idea of a quick change nozzle is really compelling but it's also a lot of money.
@@NateRidderman very happy so far. Super easy to install and works exactly as advertised so far. I took the suggestion of another channel and changed my end gcode to always retract the filament into the Bowden so when I want to change nozzles before a print I don't have to heat it up at all. I've done prints with the 0.25, 0.4, and 0.8 and after tuning my slicer settings for each it's been as expected without having to relevel between nozzle changes.
Thanks alot! I was facing this issue where my Ender 3 V2 was unable to maintain nozzle temp. I changed the thermistor twice, check all the connections, changed the hotend, reinstalled the firmware. After auto tuning PID settings, the issue seems to have resolved.
This made it super simple and painless! Thank you!
I’ve downloaded pronterface and unzipped. When I open and look for a port there are no options in the drop down menu
Something I found out while trying to connect laptop to printer is not all micro usb cords are the same. I had to find one that would do data transfer. Some are power only cords.
Thanks mate, saved me with using custom thermistor on custom drilled mount for it on a block.
The PID auto tuning did not solve my temperature drop problem in the hot end during printing. It is not due to thermal runaway. But due to insufficient current from the power supply unit
@6:40 of your video, I'm having an issue on the port menu not showing anything (running windows) even though Ender 3 is on, connected to computer via USB, and pronterface is open and running? Any advice in getting it to recognize a port?
Hi, you may need to install a USB-serial driver like the CH340 driver. Here's a link to it over on TH3DStudio.
www.th3dstudio.com/hc/downloads/drivers/ch340-drivers-th3d-uno-creality-v1-1-x-v4-2-x-board/
Awesome! Your videos are life saving.
Helped me out, easy and straightforward to follow. Thank you!
Excelent explanation Bryan!
Dad humor intensifies, We learn more from this fine Gentleman that what the eye can see
Pardon me if I missed it, Would you know if the motherboard in that printer is the 4.2.7 ?
Great video by the way thank you.
Hi, that printer has a v4.2.2 board in it. Thanks! 👍
Ok good to know, must be something wrong with my board it's also 4.2.2 and it didn't work, had to reinstall the old heater block which the nozzle threads are starting to strip. Thanks for the reply.
After a few days of emails and a little bit of diagnostics, creality is sending me a new heater block assembly.
Have you another video for the pid of the bed ? This could be very usefull for some of us
This is simply beautiiful, thank you so much
Thanks for the clear and fat free tutorial! Great job!
Should I do a PID tune if my nozzle flexes -1 degree and over +1 degree periodically. Not much of a difference but I did do a microswiss hotend upgrade 8 months ago but never did one and prints ok. Also does this test how “True” my temperature is set to when I set to a degree of let’s say 220C like does it test to see if it’s actually at 220C
It sounds like your PID values are correct for your hot end. If it's continually going + or - 5 degrees or more, I'd consider running a PID autotune, but with a + or - 1 degree variance, you're right where you need to be.
@@BV3D thank you
Thank you! this is a lifesaver tutorial :)
hello I am looking for a heating module for an external and independent BED I saw on one of your videos that you had this
Thank you my friend, I was about to junk my ender 3 pro
Is there a G-Code command to report the PID output signal (% power on the heater)?
Thanks. That got me back and running
You saved my printer again! :) Thank you
Also you can add U1 to the PID auto tune command to store the PID and skip the M301 (you still need to save with M500)
Hi Brian.
I am only a new subscriber to your channel, and i want to thank you for the great way you manage your tutorials.
They are very entertaining and insightful.
I have learned so much and am still learning more about 3d printing and now also about Arduino!
I am recently retired and I believe if i dont use it i will lose it.
However with your help that won't happen.
I can even forgive you the
" dad " jokes . 😂
Keep up the great work.
Greetings from Australia 🦘
Cheers.
Ray
Is it possible to have the pid tuning getting wrong withouth changing the hot end? I'm using a stock ender 3 v2, just changed firmware from factory to jyers, and recently my hotend temp has started oscillating. Should I try an autotune?
The Jyers firmware may store the PID values in a different part of the printer's EEPROM than the stock firmware does, so it's probably a good idea to do the PID auto tune. I've just started looking at Jyers, and I think it has a PID tune option in one of its menus. Look around and see!
@@BV3D I've tried the auto tune in the menus and it worked, my temp seems stable now. Another reason to switch to jyer ;)
I am having a similar issue on a e3pro that I'm trying to fix for a client. it would not throw thermal runaway, but it would jump well past the set temp and drop, and the print would never start. So I replaced the thermistor, but the problem still existed. The client asked me to swap out the board and see if that helped it did kind of. The temp now jumps 30c past desired temp but then goes to the set temp and stays at desired temp and it will print now.
Bryan, I have a CR-20 that the hot end keeps getting hotter and hotter. I have already replaced the hot end with a new one. Someone told me I need to run PID autotune. I get the following error in Pronterface:
SENDING:M303 E0 S220 C3
PID Autotune failed! Temperature too high
PID Autotune start
PID Autotune failed! Temperature too high
echo:Unknown command: "MM105"
I have no idea where to go from here. Thank you for any help.
awesome video really helped i was throwing boards and hotends at my printer trying to get it to work the prints wouldnt start i feel really silly now
Awesome video! It helped me out 1 million percent! THANKS!
Thank you for this video. All I can learn about little tricks like this is Awesome!! Thank you again!👍
Can you tune the axis too? I just put a glass bed on my Ender 3 Pro and now I've got layer shifting on the Y axis.
Now there is actually an option in the configuration menu, advanced settings has a "PID Autotune" that you just select and it runs the tuning by itself... but thanks for the the detailed video as always.
Thanks dude! Saved my printer.
This video was great, thank you sir!