That may be the best "DIY, How To, Help Video" I've ever seen. I'm getting ready to try and find a power steering fluid leak and this will really help me get started. I'm now already pretty confident I can do this...before watching....not so much. Thanks for posting this!
Thank you very much for the video, Mr. Worsethanchiggers. It was very helpful! I managed to replace this hose on my 2003 Odyssey. A couple of comments (hope someone will find them as useful as I found this video): 1. While removing the old hose, it is easier to cut off the tube at the nut (someone suggested this above, and I definitely second this suggestion) and use a 14mm socket (unless you want to keep the old hose). 2. Feed the new hose from the top (next to the pump). I tried everything before this, and nothing worked (I could force it through but did not want to bend anything). 3. My new hose (generic, not Honda) actually had a 9/16 in nut instead of 14 mm, but I had just the right flare nut wrench, so it was not a problem. So, make sure that you have a 9/16 in wrench available just in case. 4. I actually discovered that my power steering pressure switch was not connected. Looks like the electric wires got torn somehow years ago. My understanding is that this switch regulates idle rpms (when you are trying to make a sharp turn while a car is not moving), so I did not bother trying to reconnect it (just installed it on the new hose to plug the hole). So far, did not notice any problems. Be careful installing this switch though, don't over-tighten. 5. Definitely put some masking tape on all openings while putting this hose in place, and frequently check that the tape did not get off. 6. Cover the belts when you disconnect the old hose from the pump - you do not want to spill power steering fluid on any of the belts which are right below it. Good luck to whoever is going to attempt this! This is definitely doable. The hardest part for me was to actually put this hose in place. Connecting it after that (and disconnecting the original hose) was rather straightforward. Having all the right tools certainly helps.
Excellent work. You are setting a higher standard for automotive "How to" repair videos on YT. I like the attention to detail and references to the documentation. Thank you.
Very well done video - thanks! Completed this on a 2005. Same pieces, just in slightly different places. Flange nut was not in an easy place to reach, but it was easy to get the new line into place. Note - the OEM flange nut was 14mm, the replacement was 9/16th. I recommend you check it before you get it in place. I drained as much fluid as I could and cleaned the reservoir before I refilled with Honda PS fluid. Did not run the car, just turned the wheel back and forth still on the jacks. It sucked and burped down the fluid in the reservoir twice and was full (about 1.8 pints). Steering is working just fine. I'll be honest - I farted around with this project 2 nights about 6 hours total, but I was really taking my sweet time (PS system newbie).
What a fantastic video and talk through.This is one of best demonstrations I have seen. Great camera close ups with clear instructions and guidance. Thank you so much!!
I want to say. Ty for the tip on line wrenches . I was under there trying to us a box wrench and noticed it wasn't going to do it. Every video I watched on this ,none of them introduced the flare head wrench set.
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it. As they say, the right tool for the job makes a big difference. For every job that I take on myself, the money that I've saved usually covers the cost of new tools.
I just did this on my wife's 2006 and that flare nut was a massive pain to get loose. I had to take off the air cleaner box because it was totally inaccessible from below. Your video helped me a lot. Thank you for making it and posting it.
My power steering high pressure hose leaked so I was going to watch the Ron Howard video about the Apollo 11 faked moon landing listed in the right side bar to get tips on how to replace it but as it turns out, this video was much better than Ron Howard's. Thanks much for the excellent instructions.
I really like the way this job was documented. You instill good common sense and confidence through patience and exacting standards compared to your youtube competition.
Outstanding video! There's another video for the next generation Odyssey and the guy recommends inserting the new hose with the side that mounts to the pump first, from underneath the van - he also recommends attaching a wire to the old one and pulling it out from under the van, this will help when you replace the new one, I am going to try this when I get the new hose this weekend.
Excellent video - Your video was spot on, full of great advice, and the leak is fixed! My teenage son and I just replaced the high pressure power steering hose on our 2007 Odyssey. The hose itself was $197 from the Honda dealer, but we saved over $300 on labor costs doing it ourselves. The 2007 seemed to have less clearance than the 2002, but we persevered. After trying an open end wrench, flare nut wrench, and vise grips, we ended up just cutting the metal tube off at the flare nut and using a socket. I would recommend cutting the metal tube to anyone doing this repair and not waste time trying to loosen the nut. We were very careful to watch how the old hose came out and replacing with the new hose took only a few minutes.
I took on that same project, removal was bad enough , feeding the rigid pipe!!!, after about 3hours, went to the parts store, ask if it was acceptable to cut the metal pipe and rejoin with a brass coupling, was told that was a common practice, YES!!! That was about a year ago, no leaks
Thanks. Great instructional video. 5. stars . I could only wish other mechanical videos online were as clear and concise and accurate as yours are. again, thank you very much. I too had the exact same issue. Got a rebuild kit and followed your video on the power steering pump rebuild only to discover that the top high pressure hose had failed by leaking.
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it. Yea, a leaky hose is certainly misleading. Interesting that you had exactly the same experience as I did.
Amazing video, thank you so much. I had the exact same leak in the exact same spot and had the identical problem with the tough nut that needed the line wrench. Great tips and advice that saved my family at least $500 and only cost me a Saturday afternoon and some sanity from extracting and reinstalling the hose. I would pay for this level of quality instruction when my Odyssey gets a problem. Let me know if you have a donation location!
I successfully rebuilt my 99 ody power steering pump based on your last great video, and I'm look forward to replacing this hose when it starts leaking. Thanks for another excellent how to video!
I really appreciate the kind comments. Thanks! Too many videos deemphasize the challenging parts of a task and that is lost on the viewer. I sometimes prefer to show the decision making process when a change of course is warranted.
What an incredible service. Great vid! Thank you. I highly recommend before changing the pump, use the yellow dye and a black light flashlight. My leak was also in the hose, not the more expensive pump. Yellow Dye $8 any auto parts store (specifically for oil fluids) and $8 black light at Harbor Freight. You don't need the expensive kit at auto parts store with yellow glasses. It will show leak with black light.
LOL...you shoot pb blaster like I do! Everywhere but where we need it at first. Glad I'm not the only one who does the 'hit or miss' routine in hard to get to areas. Thanks for the tips/tutorial. Well done!!
this was one of the best how to vids I've seen very detailed. I watched it 3 times to see exactly what I was in for and it was exactly what I expected (including the cursing) lol. great vid thanks
I just wanted to thank you for the great video! I appreciate you attention to detail. I wasn't sure if my high pressure line was leaking on my 2004 Acura mdx, or if it was the pump. Thanks to you video I found my high pressure line was leaking is the exact same spot. The subframe on the mdx makes this job a bit more challenging, but your video definitely helped me. Thank you!
Excellent video thanks for showing the detail - the patience required in routing the line cant be shown on video - but because of your patience this is a great resource for many to use - Many thanks for both videos - Great Job!
Great video! Very clear and full of details and the gotcha steps that usually frustrate you when you DIY. Motivates me to change mine myself... Will let you know how it turns out!
Thank you for making this video I would have not replaced the cracked hose myself on my odyssey 2000 if not for your video. Nearly gave up trying to feed the line. I used original Honda parts but the pipe run between the two rubber supports was originally bent as a hump unlike what I saw from the video which was straight. Took me 6 hours to feed the line.. Lol.. Thank you for making this video.
This was a very well done video. I used it to fix the power steering line on my **2005** Odyssey ... it worked perfectly. Here are some further notes and observations on this video that will help you to use it to fix your odyssey. 1) the vehicle is raised on ramps under the front wheels ... this works fine. The wheels do not have to come off. 2) doing the line-nut down on the power steering rack first works great (before taking off any of the line hold-down bolts). On the 2005, that hook the line takes (down by the nut) at the end of the power steering line is not there and so that line nut is accessible from towards the center of the car (laying on your back) AND FROM THE TOPSIDE, right in through the engine compartment on the drivers side (big arms make this a painful squeeze though). A milk crate to stand on works just ducky to be able to reach into the engine bay when the vehicle is high, up on ramps. 3) yes, you really need to use a "line wrench" (with its "C" end) with an extension to get it loose. 4) the lower line hold downs (the rubber bushings with the clamps on them) are accessible by laying on your back under the vehicle with your feet sticking out the front of the vehicle. 5) the use of the bungee cord in the video is a great tip when you are doing the job by yourself. 6) fwiw - a small hand mirror will help you while you are doing the job to see where nuts/bolts are located better. 7) everything else should be done in the sequence and method as shown in the video. THANKS AGAIN to the original poster. Actually a repair with very little headache using the info in the video!
Great job. I was going to do this myself but after seeing how difficult it was for a pro I opted to save a weekend and do it myself. Thanks again for a very good video.
I watched this video three times, then did this repair. It took about 3 hours, a second pair of hands, jackstands and a 3 ton jack, and it works real well to take off both front tires. This was super frustrating. I'm no mechanic, but with the help of this video, and the above mentions add on's I did it. A mechanic friend says I'm a badass for even attempting this repair and that if I took this to a shop it would have cost me over $300.00 +parts. (100.00+). So, I guess thanks are in order, but man it was hard!
Wow! Wish I'd looked at this Video before I replaced the pump....oh well. Well done, clear, and full of suggestions for tools and parts. Pay attention to his comment on the two bolts on top of the pump; I managed to strip one of them over torquing it down.
nice work, I cant believe I watched the whole thing. Appreciate the flare nut wrench tip. Just have to keep thinking about the guy who does this twice a day, every day...second time is easier!!
Great video. If anyone gets stuck taking any sort of line off, as long as you are replacing it you can cut the line off next time the nut then use a regular box end wrench.
I love UA-cam SO much - thank you for this - my husband is a genius with fixing things and this will help - or at least decide if it's worth just paying someone for it. But it's an over $400 repair.
thank you very much, after much headache i think you have solved my problem. as a non mechanic and new at owning a car this will be a pain in the butt, your video makes the task easier !! thanks again
Great video. I just did this project and thought I'd add my recommendations/comments: 1) Got Edelmann (aka, Parts Master?) aftermarket hose, because I could get 2-day shipping through Amazon Prime and it was only $44 for a used one (open package return.) Seemed to work fine, but I needed to slightly bend the rigid portion to match the original shape, so keep your old one and line them up to make these adjustments. Also, the pressure switch is on a T fitting rather than a Y, so you need to cut the closest wire harness connector for the connector to reach. Discard the smaller o-ring and ignore the instructions that say it is needed on the flare nut, as it is NOT needed. 2) Use jack stands rather than ramps, so you can remove the wheels. Much easier access and you can flush and bleed the system manually by repeatedly turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock, with the engine off. 3) Cut off the old line, flush with the end of the flare nut and then use a 15mm socket to remove the flare nut. Don't try other methods first, as that just buggers up the nut and makes it harder to get the socket on. Use plenty of PB Blaster first. 4) Attach a string to the end that had the flare nut, so that it traces the path as you pull the old hose assembly out. 5) Disconnect the pressure switch electrical connector. 6) To remove old line, first move the hard portion of the line toward the driver side a bit. Then pull the flexible portion of the hose down and push it straight through the passenger side wheel well. From below, work the assembly out, toward the passenger side, above the tie rod boot. It takes some wiggling, but you can do this with the pressure switch attached. 7) Tape the openings, then tie the string to the new line at the flare nut and have a helper gently pull the string as you guide the assembly back through from the passenger wheel well toward the drive side. I was able to attach the pressure switch ahead of time. Double the flexible end over and stove it over the tie rod boot, reversing the removal gyrations. 8) Get the rigid pipe nearly into position and then make any needed tweaks to the final bends. Install the flare nut first and tighten most of the way, with a 15mm flare nut wrench. Then install the 3 clamps, reusing the original rubber bushings. Finish tightening the flare nut. 9) Fill the reservoir and turn the steering wheel manually, lock-to-lock to work the air out. Check often to add fluid. 10) Say a prayer, fire it up, check for leaks and turn the steering wheel back and forth under power until the fluid level stops dropping. 11) Have a refreshing beverage.
A comment of caution to point (3) above: cutting off the old line might introduce metal "debris" into the system. It will be impossible to remove these tiny pieces afterwards !!! - Using a small plumbers hose cutter could be safer but not full proof!!! - WARNING !
Well, my turn in two days on a 2001. Thanks for a peek at the details. I’m bringing in a helper which should ease the task of hose extraction/insertion, I definitely have the correct tools and I’m glad the pressure sensor can be installed on the bench. I also have a set of flare crowfoot wrenches that will work with a breaker bar. My big hands may be a problem but I’ve dealt with worse.
I am glad to hear that you TOLD US WRONG> at 3:52. I spent an hour trying to get the single flare nut off.... buggered it up good. So when you said the high press line was one of the other ones, I was very worried. I ended up having to use Vise grips with a flat jaw. Glad that I am not using that nut again. thnks for the correction.I did the same thing as you, I replaced the pump then found the hose was bad....
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it. Good luck with your project and let us know how it goes. I really enjoy hearing how other peoples' experiences compared to mine.
Good video. I haven't done it yet but I think I'm going to tie a very long string to the wheel end on the hose before I start pulling it back through the car. Then after getting the hose out, I'm going to tie the string to the new hose to feed it back. Only doing this to make sure that I'm routing the new hose correct.
I've been needing to do this for a while but wasn't confident enough to do it since I'm not mechanically inclined. Now I feel I can do it with no probs. Great video!
Great video. I think this must happen a lot with these vans. It looked like mine had been replaced before. I bought a flare nut wrench just for this and it still started to strip that bolt. I ended up soaking it overnight in penetrating grease and using vice grips the next day. Pulling the hose out and back in from the passenger wheel well worked good.
Well done! You can definitely do it and save a bundle while walking away with the satisfaction that you did it yourself. Just have some patience and dive right in. Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
I've done work this tedious before on a car and for people like you to film it while you do it all by yourself is just amazing. Thank you sir. Subbed and liked! Your black and white and furry companion could have been more helpful 😆
Thank you very much! I carefully followed step by step your video. However my flare nut was very easy to untight. my 2000 Odyssey has now 280k km. no more money to waste in garage at 100$/h . It took me 2 hours, beer and music included. Don't let your hose leak during 2 weeks by adding of power steering everyday for a total of one gallon. You will make a mess as I did on my garage floor.
Thank you your video. Can I have questions about my car fluid power steering Reservoir overflow out and I have flushing 3 times but they still problem.
Great video. Thanks. Even with line wrench, the nut got stripped coming off. Good locking pliers finally made quick work of it. Took a few hours, but I got it......almost. Flare connection is now leaking and I've already loosened it, checked and re tightened. Still leaking. Arg!
I used a string around the flare nut side to help PULL the hose into its new location. Fishing in and out was most diff part of the job. A 9/16 line wrench is close enough to use when removing the old tight nut (9/16 =.5625" ; 14mm = .55") .
Thanks for posting this video I had a leak in the same exact spot tried using J-B Weld it held for like a week and then started to leak again it was time to put in a new hose fought like heck to get it out and a little to get it in getting the flare nut started was the hardest part how to lower the jack a little bit to get the flare nut to go in flush how to put on leather gloves to get more strength and grip to get the flare nut started once I got that started I was home free with a little help From my awesome wife I don't know a lot about cars so these videos help tons may the Lord bless you for helping not only me but many others God bless
Great video. Good prep so I knew what I was getting into. I did my struts, tie rod ends, and stabilizer bars right away so itvwas pretty easy to get the hose out through the passenger side wheel well.
Felicidades, es un vídeo magnifico. Muchas Gracias. Yo me dedico a la mecánica. pero creo que nunca podre hacer un vídeo con tanta dedicación Congratulations, is a magnificent video. Thank you very much. I am dedicated to mechanics. but I think I could never do a video with such dedication
Thanks for your video. I have a 2007. It seems to the the same layout. I was going to take it to the dealer but after seeing your video I will try it myself. thanks!
I had no trouble getting mine off with the open end wrench as you did, but I went and bought crowfoot wrenches that again hit at more points so I could torque mine on there at 18 ft-lbs.
Great video. Just finished the job last night. Can confirm figuring out how to get the hose out, and the new one into position is really frustrating and difficult. (esc with the car on ramps and you're lying underneath. A lift would make it a lot easier). I'd say good ramps are a minimum requirement for the job. Also, Harbor Freight has both flair nut wrench set $15 and o ring set $5. If you don't have the wrench set I would add that to the list of required tools. The hose is really hard to get out of the wrack. I would say without the flair nut wrench, you probably won't be able to get it loose.
Thanks for posting this video. It was very helpful. My Odyssey has the same problem. That's a lot of work and struggle to replace the hose. I don't have a garage and winter time is not ideal season to do it yourself. I'll have to check with the shop to see how much they'll charge. Thanks again
thanks for the advice. I was thinking of doing just that. cutting the tube line, to get an open wrench on the nut, or an extracter. I think that is my best option now. on this 2007 the line is configured differently than that 2002 Honda. I have less space for levarage.
Well, this job is "worse than chiggers." But this vid is great instruction. I add: Do like this guy and buy the Honda part. Autozone's was rusted at the sensor threading, and didn't line up at the steering housing. I had to gently bend it. But you can do as he did, painstakingly thread it through without removing anything else (I did loosen a hose guide and shift it). Great vid. Thanks!
I changed this on my 2000 honda van and video was very helpful. I also broke the clip that plugs into sensor on the line. Everywhere was telling me they had to order from honda dealer. I found it on Rockauto.com for like $14 and had it in no time. Very satisfied with rockauto and would recommend them if you can wait a couple days for a part. Again this video was very helpful. Thank you for posting.
Trevor Blankenship I'm glad it worked out. Rockauto is great and I've used them many times. I recently broke the plastic tab on a fuel injector electrical connector. I found a replacement on eBay and was able to easily remove the contacts from the broken connector and snap them into the new one without having to cut or splice any wires.
Thank you for doing this video - I found it while looking for the same information on a 2005 Pilot. After my initial survey, it looks much the same. Anyhow - looking for a similar Pilot video - thanks!
I used an aftermarket hose and it was fine. I did have to bend the hard line on the new part to match the OEM so the flare nut would thread in. The whole job took me 3 hours, from setting up the ramps till end of cleanup, and that included a trip to the store to buy a proper line wrench. I would suggest anyone use ramps or a lift for this job though. Made it much easier to work the hose in and around and get it into position.
Thanks for this outstanding video! I have a 2000 Odyssey with 200k miles - I changed the hose per the video, however the power steering is now growling when I turn the wheel hard right. It seems there might be air in the line.
+armydlguy Yes, likely air in the system. If you followed the proper bleeding procedure, perhaps you are now drawing in air at the pump on the low pressure side. There's an o-ring there that can cause that if it deteriorates or gets damaged.
Just did this repair on my 2007 Odyssey with 157k miles. Almost identical hose and procedure. A couple of notes for the 05-07 Odyssey's: 1. I used a 14mm crow's foot flare nut wrench, rack was very easy to undo. 2. Get the Honda hose for $150. I bought aftermarket for $110 and did it not include the 3 rubber mounts. But I was able to cut them off the old hose and reuse them. And to add insult to injury, the 14mm hex at the steering rack was a 9/16" on the new hose so my flare nut wrench would not work. Luckily I was able to tighten it enough with a regular 9/16" crows foot. 3. The hose will come out and go back in very easily from the bottom on these year models. Literally 1 minute. 4. The hardest part for me was putting the center of 3 hose clamps back on. 5. Keep everything loose until you get the rack started, it is a bit tricky to get it aligned right so it doesn't cross thread.
Joshua Brown It was real easy with some Craftsman razor blade scissors I've had for years. Suppose you could do it with a knife too. The rubber is pretty soft. Cut along the flat bottom side and it will slide over the new line and pretty much stay in place.
I connected jet line (thin nylon line used for pulling electrical wires through conduits) to the bottom end of the hose so that when I pulled it out of the car I could see exactly where it went through engine compartment. It allowed me to pull the string (connected to the new hose) down and back through the engine compartment while my buddy fed me the hose. I was really happy I did this, because coarse the hose took through the compartment was fairly complicated.
5:05. It may sound crude, but before springing for a set of line wrenches, I'd get out my Vise-Grips. If that didn't work, I'd cut off the line and use a standard 14mm socket to remove the flange nut. Great video though. Thanks for posting!
Indeed that's definitely a reasonable approach for the disassembly. Personally, I still found it worthwhile to invest in a set of line wrenches for the reassembly and tightening of the new flare nut. Maybe it's just me but I like to invest in good tools using the money that I saved by doing the job myself.
@@WorseThanChiggers I hear you. One of the tools I bought and later regret buying is a special socket for removing an oxygen sensor. It's a deep socket with a slit up the side to allow the wire to remain attached while loosening the sensor. The problem is, those sensors are usually VERY tight as they rust on to the exhaust. They're so tight, the special socket can't maintain it's shape and the slot begins to widen. When that happens, it lets go of the sensor. Usually the sensor is being replaced so who cares if I cut off the wire and go with a standard deep socket?
Your video makes it look easy I'm going to try it on my 2004 it has a spraying leak on the hose not far from your drip on your video. I'm going to block out my entire weekend to do this. I think I'll but a set of wrenches like you did. The hose is $121 at auto zone so it will still be cheaper if o can accomplish this. Wish me luck
Best of luck and it really is not too difficult. I would recommend that you get an OEM genuine Honda hose rather than an aftermarket one. Some people have had quality and fitment issues with non-OEM alternatives.
Excellent step-by-step video with clear video, no missing steps and good commentary...... I am wondering that if even with a line wrench if I strip the nut what should I do? I hope to replace my pressure line in the next week or two and want to be prepared in case I mess that nut up. I plan on soaking that nut with PB blaster a few times to help it on its way but I am still weary. Any advice of what to do in case it is stripped would make me a little less anxious about doing it. Thanks.
+Smitty Werbenmanjensen I've heard good suggestions that if you can't get the old flare nut off, just cut the line and use a 6 point socket. That assumes you have not already stripped the nut and rounded it over with a standard open end wrench. A good quality line wrench should do the trick. If you need to cut the line, you might be able to get a compact plumber's pipe cutter up in there which would probably work nicely and cleanly. A hacksaw would work, too, but that runs the risk of contaminating the rack with metal particles. If all else fails, another recent suggestion is to use a large set of vice grips and a cheater pipe.
+worsethanchiggers - Thanks for the excellent advice about cutting the line and using a 6 point ratchet should I start to strip the bolt. Keep up the great videos. Us DIY'ers really appreciate the great detail you put into them!
You sir are very kind to share the steps and give us amateurs confidence to perform the repair ourselves. A very thorough explanation with a comforting narrative. Many thanks and job well done. Maybe one suggestion/question -- cutting the old hose during removal may have saved some time instead of keeping it intact. Did removing the hose in one piece help with the 15 min of wrestling the new one into place?
Art Wong Art, thanks for the kind words. I'm just as much an amateur, continuously learning myself, and I enjoy sharing my journey in hopes that it will help others. Good question... I did not consider cutting the old hose which would have definitely helped with its removal. However and as you correctly surmised, that part of the learning processes did help me to know how the new one would need to be routed during installation. It was just a puzzle that needed to be solved and it always takes longer the first time you do something.
worsethanchiggers Even with a flare wrench and extension it wouldn't budge so used a mallet to tap the 13mm end of the wrench hoping the impacts would free the 14 mm nut. After a number of blows the wrench turned but it was the nut being rounded. Then it dawned on me. Cut the tube flush with the nut then use a 14mm socket in the first place. This would save buying a flare set. Hammered the socket on but too late the socket didn't have enough bite on the rounded head and just spun. Oh well. Next will try a left hand tread screw extractor (not sure if there is enough friction between tube and extractor). As a 2nd last resort vice grips and after that maybe purchase those expensive bolt removing sockets.
Awesome video! Please People use only OEM Honda Parts. Bought a after market hose didn't go well. Ordered the Honda Hose it fit like a glove. And the hose was made a lot better believe me. Next up A/T Filter and fill. Any video's out there on the Front Bumper? it"s lose. If not I'll just wing it. Thanks again.
A couple of things make this much easier. First, since you are changing the hose and discarding the old hose, don't worry about how baddly you mangle it - I had to use an 8 inch pipe wrench to get it loose. I tried a 14mm flare nut wrench but no luck. Could not get enough leverage on it to remove it. The pipe wrench did the trick and it loosened up. Secondly, before you pull out the old hose, tie a string to it so you can see the path needed to get the new hose into proper position. Then you will find, it is much easier to put the new hose in from underneath. First thing to do is to disconnect the Oxygen sensor that goes to the exhaust. Then remove the connector from the bracket and push it out of the way. Then, start on the driver's side behind the cross beam that the hose was attached to with the 2 brackets , insert the rubber part of the hose through to the passenger side - not too far because then you will insert the tube with the flare nut into the other side where the old one used to go - just follow the string with regards to where to put it. Once you get the tube in to where you can see it from the driver side wheel well and it is nearly in position to connect back up (it should be at the wrong angle at this point) go back to the hose on the passenger side. You should be able to move it past the bracket next to the bracket that held the oxygen sensor, and into proper position while also working up the hose to the power steering pump - this part is easier if you have someone to help and pull it up from above. The hose should move up towards the PS pump and the person underneath can make any additional adjustments to the positioning - which should be much easier without the oxygen sensor in the way. Once the tube is in place underneath, do not attach the brackets until you are sure you can properly thread the flare nut back into the steering rack. I applied some anti-seize lubricant to the nut (a very small amount) so if I need to do this again, it won't be such a pain in the butt to get that nut loose. It is difficult to get much of the nut in by hand - start it with your fingers and then use an open end wrench/box wrench to gently tighten it until it starts to become snug. Then go back under and attach the 2 clamps and then lastly the clamp on the back of the engine. Attach the connector to the power steering pump and then go back underneath and tighten the flare nut on the steering rack with a flare nut wrench. Re-check your connections and tighten as needed. Do not over-tighten on the aluminum pump or the flare nut on the steering rack. Then go back underneath and put the 2 clamps back on in the proper positions. The clamps have tabs that go into notches on the cross beam. The clamp on the driver side is easy as it is right in front of you when underneath. The other is on top of the cross beam so it can be a bit more difficult. Get the tab into the notch and then thread and finger tighten the bolt and use the socket with a short extension on it by hand and then as it gets tight, use a ratchet. Tighten the other clamp and then go back up top and install the clamp on the back of the engine. Go to the passenger sid wheel well and put the oxygen sensor female plug back onto the bracket and then go back underneath and reconnect the oxygen sensor. From the passenger side wheel well, you should be able to reconnect the PS pressure sensor as well. Make sure your connections are tight and then bleed the power steering. Some of the videos on this said it took hours to get the new hose back into the car. Doing it from underneath, made it much faster. In total, it took an hour to get it back in. But, had I known to remove the oxygen sensor connector from the bracket, I would have been able to shave off about 15 or 20 minutes. Also, approaching it from underneath makes much more sense as you run the tube up to the driver side to the steering rack and the flexible hose through to the passenger side. was much smoother than trying from the side (I tried that too and found it to be a real pain.) Also, I did not have to bend the tube at all to get it back into proper position. Good luck!
Haven't seen one yet that didn't leak there eventually. Thanks for the content!
That may be the best "DIY, How To, Help Video" I've ever seen. I'm getting ready to try and find a power steering fluid leak and this will really help me get started. I'm now already pretty confident I can do this...before watching....not so much. Thanks for posting this!
This is the most detail oriented repair video I've seen. Thanks for sharing!
Greetings from an architect.
Thank you very much for the video, Mr. Worsethanchiggers. It was very helpful! I managed to replace this hose on my 2003 Odyssey. A couple of comments (hope someone will find them as useful as I found this video):
1. While removing the old hose, it is easier to cut off the tube at the nut (someone suggested this above, and I definitely second this suggestion) and use a 14mm socket (unless you want to keep the old hose).
2. Feed the new hose from the top (next to the pump). I tried everything before this, and nothing worked (I could force it through but did not want to bend anything).
3. My new hose (generic, not Honda) actually had a 9/16 in nut instead of 14 mm, but I had just the right flare nut wrench, so it was not a problem. So, make sure that you have a 9/16 in wrench available just in case.
4. I actually discovered that my power steering pressure switch was not connected. Looks like the electric wires got torn somehow years ago. My understanding is that this switch regulates idle rpms (when you are trying to make a sharp turn while a car is not moving), so I did not bother trying to reconnect it (just installed it on the new hose to plug the hole). So far, did not notice any problems. Be careful installing this switch though, don't over-tighten.
5. Definitely put some masking tape on all openings while putting this hose in place, and frequently check that the tape did not get off.
6. Cover the belts when you disconnect the old hose from the pump - you do not want to spill power steering fluid on any of the belts which are right below it.
Good luck to whoever is going to attempt this! This is definitely doable. The hardest part for me was to actually put this hose in place. Connecting it after that (and disconnecting the original hose) was rather straightforward. Having all the right tools certainly helps.
Excellent work. You are setting a higher standard for automotive "How to" repair videos on YT. I like the attention to detail and references to the documentation. Thank you.
Outstanding description of the procedure, right down to the wrench sizes needed and tips to make it easier. Well filmed too.
Very well done video - thanks! Completed this on a 2005. Same pieces, just in slightly different places. Flange nut was not in an easy place to reach, but it was easy to get the new line into place. Note - the OEM flange nut was 14mm, the replacement was 9/16th. I recommend you check it before you get it in place. I drained as much fluid as I could and cleaned the reservoir before I refilled with Honda PS fluid. Did not run the car, just turned the wheel back and forth still on the jacks. It sucked and burped down the fluid in the reservoir twice and was full (about 1.8 pints). Steering is working just fine. I'll be honest - I farted around with this project 2 nights about 6 hours total, but I was really taking my sweet time (PS system newbie).
What a fantastic video and talk through.This is one of best demonstrations I have seen. Great camera close ups with clear instructions and guidance. Thank you so much!!
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
I want to say. Ty for the tip on line wrenches . I was under there trying to us a box wrench and noticed it wasn't going to do it. Every video I watched on this ,none of them introduced the flare head wrench set.
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it. As they say, the right tool for the job makes a big difference. For every job that I take on myself, the money that I've saved usually covers the cost of new tools.
I just did this on my wife's 2006 and that flare nut was a massive pain to get loose. I had to take off the air cleaner box because it was totally inaccessible from below. Your video helped me a lot. Thank you for making it and posting it.
My power steering high pressure hose leaked so I was going to watch the Ron Howard video about the Apollo 11 faked moon landing listed in the right side bar to get tips on how to replace it but as it turns out, this video was much better than Ron Howard's. Thanks much for the excellent instructions.
I really like the way this job was documented. You instill good common sense and confidence through patience and exacting standards compared to your youtube competition.
Outstanding video! There's another video for the next generation Odyssey and the guy recommends inserting the new hose with the side that mounts to the pump first, from underneath the van - he also recommends attaching a wire to the old one and pulling it out from under the van, this will help when you replace the new one, I am going to try this when I get the new hose this weekend.
Excellent video - Your video was spot on, full of great advice, and the leak is fixed! My teenage son and I just replaced the high pressure power steering hose on our 2007 Odyssey. The hose itself was $197 from the Honda dealer, but we saved over $300 on labor costs doing it ourselves. The 2007 seemed to have less clearance than the 2002, but we persevered. After trying an open end wrench, flare nut wrench, and vise grips, we ended up just cutting the metal tube off at the flare nut and using a socket. I would recommend cutting the metal tube to anyone doing this repair and not waste time trying to loosen the nut. We were very careful to watch how the old hose came out and replacing with the new hose took only a few minutes.
Tall DudeXX ive gotta do a pressure line on a 2005 accord with this engine. so i probably will just do it like you and your son did that procedure lol
I took on that same project, removal was bad enough , feeding the rigid pipe!!!, after about 3hours, went to the parts store, ask if it was acceptable to cut the metal pipe and rejoin with a brass coupling, was told that was a common practice, YES!!! That was about a year ago, no leaks
really hard to put the new one in place, I'm still struggling.
Will it be a good idea to put the new one from the bottom to the top? Since the upper side is soft.
Thanks. Great instructional video. 5. stars . I could only wish other mechanical videos online were as clear and concise and accurate as yours are. again, thank you very much. I too had the exact same issue. Got a rebuild kit and followed your video on the power steering pump rebuild only to discover that the top high pressure hose had failed by leaking.
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it. Yea, a leaky hose is certainly misleading. Interesting that you had exactly the same experience as I did.
Thanks for this video..... It helped me out a great deal. I'm not even a novice and was able to complete my job. Thanks again!!!!
Amazing video, thank you so much. I had the exact same leak in the exact same spot and had the identical problem with the tough nut that needed the line wrench. Great tips and advice that saved my family at least $500 and only cost me a Saturday afternoon and some sanity from extracting and reinstalling the hose. I would pay for this level of quality instruction when my Odyssey gets a problem. Let me know if you have a donation location!
I successfully rebuilt my 99 ody power steering pump based on your last great video, and I'm look forward to replacing this hose when it starts leaking. Thanks for another excellent how to video!
Nice job. I liked the way you didn't edit out the difficulty of removing the flare nut and showing that it is better to use a flare wrench. Thanks.
I really appreciate the kind comments. Thanks! Too many videos deemphasize the challenging parts of a task and that is lost on the viewer. I sometimes prefer to show the decision making process when a change of course is warranted.
What an incredible service. Great vid! Thank you. I highly recommend before changing the pump, use the yellow dye and a black light flashlight. My leak was also in the hose, not the more expensive pump. Yellow Dye $8 any auto parts store (specifically for oil fluids) and $8 black light at Harbor Freight. You don't need the expensive kit at auto parts store with yellow glasses. It will show leak with black light.
LOL...you shoot pb blaster like I do! Everywhere but where we need it at first. Glad I'm not the only one who does the 'hit or miss' routine in hard to get to areas. Thanks for the tips/tutorial. Well done!!
Yup, throw caution to the wind and soak it like there's no tomorrow!
this was one of the best how to vids I've seen very detailed. I watched it 3 times to see exactly what I was in for and it was exactly what I expected (including the cursing) lol. great vid thanks
I just wanted to thank you for the great video! I appreciate you attention to detail. I wasn't sure if my high pressure line was leaking on my 2004 Acura mdx, or if it was the pump. Thanks to you video I found my high pressure line was leaking is the exact same spot. The subframe on the mdx makes this job a bit more challenging, but your video definitely helped me. Thank you!
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
Excellent video thanks for showing the detail - the patience required in routing the line cant be shown on video - but because of your patience this is a great resource for many to use - Many thanks for both videos - Great Job!
Well done!! I was about to toss out the van - now you've inspired me to repair the line - excellent tutorial!!
Great video! Very clear and full of details and the gotcha steps that usually frustrate you when you DIY. Motivates me to change mine myself... Will let you know how it turns out!
How did it turn out?
Thank you for making this video I would have not replaced the cracked hose myself on my odyssey 2000 if not for your video. Nearly gave up trying to feed the line. I used original Honda parts but the pipe run between the two rubber supports was originally bent as a hump unlike what I saw from the video which was straight. Took me 6 hours to feed the line.. Lol.. Thank you for making this video.
This was a very well done video.
I used it to fix the power steering line on my **2005** Odyssey ... it worked perfectly. Here are some further notes and observations on this video that will help you to use it to fix your odyssey.
1) the vehicle is raised on ramps under the front wheels ... this works fine. The wheels do not have to come off.
2) doing the line-nut down on the power steering rack first works great (before taking off any of the line hold-down bolts). On the 2005, that hook the line takes (down by the nut) at the end of the power steering line is not there and so that line nut is accessible from towards the center of the car (laying on your back) AND FROM THE TOPSIDE, right in through the engine compartment on the drivers side (big arms make this a painful squeeze though). A milk crate to stand on works just ducky to be able to reach into the engine bay when the vehicle is high, up on ramps.
3) yes, you really need to use a "line wrench" (with its "C" end) with an extension to get it loose.
4) the lower line hold downs (the rubber bushings with the clamps on them) are accessible by laying on your back under the vehicle with your feet sticking out the front of the vehicle.
5) the use of the bungee cord in the video is a great tip when you are doing the job by yourself.
6) fwiw - a small hand mirror will help you while you are doing the job to see where nuts/bolts are located better.
7) everything else should be done in the sequence and method as shown in the video.
THANKS AGAIN to the original poster. Actually a repair with very little headache using the info in the video!
Great job. I was going to do this myself but after seeing how difficult it was for a pro I opted to save a weekend and do it myself. Thanks again for a very good video.
I watched this video three times, then did this repair. It took about 3 hours, a second pair of hands, jackstands and a 3 ton jack, and it works real well to take off both front tires. This was super frustrating. I'm no mechanic, but with the help of this video, and the above mentions add on's I did it. A mechanic friend says I'm a badass for even attempting this repair and that if I took this to a shop it would have cost me over $300.00 +parts. (100.00+). So, I guess thanks are in order, but man it was hard!
Thanks. Made me realize I would go insane routing that hose out and back in. Saved me some sanity!
Wow! Wish I'd looked at this Video before I replaced the pump....oh well. Well done, clear, and full of suggestions for tools and parts. Pay attention to his comment on the two bolts on top of the pump; I managed to strip one of them over torquing it down.
nice work, I cant believe I watched the whole thing. Appreciate the flare nut wrench tip. Just have to keep thinking about the guy who does this twice a day, every day...second time is easier!!
Great video. If anyone gets stuck taking any sort of line off, as long as you are replacing it you can cut the line off next time the nut then use a regular box end wrench.
You seriously saved me with this video. Thank you very much
I love UA-cam SO much - thank you for this - my husband is a genius with fixing things and this will help - or at least decide if it's worth just paying someone for it. But it's an over $400 repair.
thank you very much, after much headache i think you have solved my problem. as a non mechanic and new at owning a car this will be a pain in the butt, your video makes the task easier !!
thanks again
Great video. I just did this project and thought I'd add my recommendations/comments:
1) Got Edelmann (aka, Parts Master?) aftermarket hose, because I could get 2-day shipping through Amazon Prime and it was only $44 for a used one (open package return.) Seemed to work fine, but I needed to slightly bend the rigid portion to match the original shape, so keep your old one and line them up to make these adjustments. Also, the pressure switch is on a T fitting rather than a Y, so you need to cut the closest wire harness connector for the connector to reach. Discard the smaller o-ring and ignore the instructions that say it is needed on the flare nut, as it is NOT needed.
2) Use jack stands rather than ramps, so you can remove the wheels. Much easier access and you can flush and bleed the system manually by repeatedly turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock, with the engine off.
3) Cut off the old line, flush with the end of the flare nut and then use a 15mm socket to remove the flare nut. Don't try other methods first, as that just buggers up the nut and makes it harder to get the socket on. Use plenty of PB Blaster first.
4) Attach a string to the end that had the flare nut, so that it traces the path as you pull the old hose assembly out.
5) Disconnect the pressure switch electrical connector.
6) To remove old line, first move the hard portion of the line toward the driver side a bit. Then pull the flexible portion of the hose down and push it straight through the passenger side wheel well. From below, work the assembly out, toward the passenger side, above the tie rod boot. It takes some wiggling, but you can do this with the pressure switch attached.
7) Tape the openings, then tie the string to the new line at the flare nut and have a helper gently pull the string as you guide the assembly back through from the passenger wheel well toward the drive side. I was able to attach the pressure switch ahead of time. Double the flexible end over and stove it over the tie rod boot, reversing the removal gyrations.
8) Get the rigid pipe nearly into position and then make any needed tweaks to the final bends. Install the flare nut first and tighten most of the way, with a 15mm flare nut wrench. Then install the 3 clamps, reusing the original rubber bushings. Finish tightening the flare nut.
9) Fill the reservoir and turn the steering wheel manually, lock-to-lock to work the air out. Check often to add fluid.
10) Say a prayer, fire it up, check for leaks and turn the steering wheel back and forth under power until the fluid level stops dropping.
11) Have a refreshing beverage.
Steven Bachman getting ready to do this & dropping a string is the first thing I thought might help...but always easy to armchair qb😁. great video
A comment of caution to point (3) above: cutting off the old line might introduce metal "debris" into the system. It will be impossible to remove these tiny pieces afterwards !!! - Using a small plumbers hose cutter could be safer but not full proof!!! - WARNING !
To avoid introducing metal particles onto the hydraulic system, Cut the metal line several inches far from the flare fitting. 👌
Well, my turn in two days on a 2001. Thanks for a peek at the details. I’m bringing in a helper which should ease the task of hose extraction/insertion, I definitely have the correct tools and I’m glad the pressure sensor can be installed on the bench. I also have a set of flare crowfoot wrenches that will work with a breaker bar. My big hands may be a problem but I’ve dealt with worse.
Thanks for detailed instructions. I think I will undertake this after all.
I am glad to hear that you TOLD US WRONG> at 3:52. I spent an hour trying to get the single flare nut off.... buggered it up good. So when you said the high press line was one of the other ones, I was very worried. I ended up having to use Vise grips with a flat jaw. Glad that I am not using that nut again. thnks for the correction.I did the same thing as you, I replaced the pump then found the hose was bad....
Great video........huge help. Appreciate you taking the time to walk us through the process. Fliming it was excellent!
OUTSTANDING VIDEO!!! I know that was harder than it looked- very very well done, sir!! Thanks for the video!! It's gonna help out BIG time!!!!!!
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it. Good luck with your project and let us know how it goes. I really enjoy hearing how other peoples' experiences compared to mine.
Good video. I haven't done it yet but I think I'm going to tie a very long string to the wheel end on the hose before I start pulling it back through the car. Then after getting the hose out, I'm going to tie the string to the new hose to feed it back. Only doing this to make sure that I'm routing the new hose correct.
I've been needing to do this for a while but wasn't confident enough to do it since I'm not mechanically inclined. Now I feel I can do it with no probs. Great video!
Great video. I think this must happen a lot with these vans. It looked like mine had been replaced before. I bought a flare nut wrench just for this and it still started to strip that bolt. I ended up soaking it overnight in penetrating grease and using vice grips the next day. Pulling the hose out and back in from the passenger wheel well worked good.
Awesome video!! For a novice diy’er like me, I feel confident I can do this. I just rolled over 383k on my 02.
Well done! You can definitely do it and save a bundle while walking away with the satisfaction that you did it yourself. Just have some patience and dive right in. Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
I've done work this tedious before on a car and for people like you to film it while you do it all by yourself is just amazing. Thank you sir. Subbed and liked! Your black and white and furry companion could have been more helpful 😆
Thanks for those kind comments. I really appreciate it.
This guy had good filming this video , way to go. I understood and learned everything he did... THAK YOU.
Thank you very much! I carefully followed step by step your video. However my flare nut was very easy to untight. my 2000 Odyssey has now 280k km. no more money to waste in garage at 100$/h . It took me 2 hours, beer and music included. Don't let your hose leak during 2 weeks by adding of power steering everyday for a total of one gallon. You will make a mess as I did on my garage floor.
Thank you your video. Can I have questions about my car fluid power steering Reservoir overflow out and I have flushing 3 times but they still problem.
My vehicle is Toyota sienna 06
Great video. Thanks. Even with line wrench, the nut got stripped coming off. Good locking pliers finally made quick work of it. Took a few hours, but I got it......almost. Flare connection is now leaking and I've already loosened it, checked and re tightened. Still leaking. Arg!
Ugh. That's a bummer.
Many thanks for your very detailed video. Well done. It does motivate me to replace the hose on my Pilot 2003 with leak at lower end of the hose.
Sir you have lots of time and patience.. God 🙏 Bless
Awesome vid.
Thanks for not editing out some of your struggles.
I used a string around the flare nut side to help PULL the hose into its new location. Fishing in and out was most diff part of the job. A 9/16 line wrench is close enough to use when removing the old tight nut (9/16 =.5625" ; 14mm = .55") .
Thank you for this excellent video on how to rebuild the power steering hose.
Thanks for posting this video I had a leak in the same exact spot tried using J-B Weld it held for like a week and then started to leak again it was time to put in a new hose fought like heck to get it out and a little to get it in getting the flare nut started was the hardest part how to lower the jack a little bit to get the flare nut to go in flush how to put on leather gloves to get more strength and grip to get the flare nut started once I got that started I was home free with a little help From my awesome wife I don't know a lot about cars so these videos help tons may the Lord bless you for helping not only me but many others God bless
Great job and congrats for doing it by yourself
Great video. Good prep so I knew what I was getting into. I did my struts, tie rod ends, and stabilizer bars right away so itvwas pretty easy to get the hose out through the passenger side wheel well.
Well documented and love the cleanliness of work. Also, using the right tool for the job.
Felicidades, es un vídeo magnifico. Muchas Gracias. Yo me dedico a la mecánica. pero creo que nunca podre hacer un vídeo con tanta dedicación
Congratulations, is a magnificent video. Thank you very much. I am dedicated to mechanics. but I think I could never do a video with such dedication
Thanks for your video. I have a 2007. It seems to the the same layout. I was going to take it to the dealer but after seeing your video I will try it myself. thanks!
I had no trouble getting mine off with the open end wrench as you did, but I went and bought crowfoot wrenches that again hit at more points so I could torque mine on there at 18 ft-lbs.
EXCELLENT, DETAILED STEP BY STEP VIDEO. KEEP WRENCHING.
One of the best how to videos I ever seen❗❗❗👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍awesome
Great video. Just finished the job last night. Can confirm figuring out how to get the hose out, and the new one into position is really frustrating and difficult. (esc with the car on ramps and you're lying underneath. A lift would make it a lot easier). I'd say good ramps are a minimum requirement for the job. Also, Harbor Freight has both flair nut wrench set $15 and o ring set $5. If you don't have the wrench set I would add that to the list of required tools. The hose is really hard to get out of the wrack. I would say without the flair nut wrench, you probably won't be able to get it loose.
Very nice thorough job and explanation. Pleasure to watch.
Thanks for posting this video. It was very helpful. My Odyssey has the same problem. That's a lot of work and struggle to replace the hose. I don't have a garage and winter time is not ideal season to do it yourself. I'll have to check with the shop to see how much they'll charge. Thanks again
thanks for the advice. I was thinking of doing just that. cutting the tube line, to get an open wrench on the nut, or an extracter. I think that is my best option now. on this 2007 the line is configured differently than that 2002 Honda. I have less space for levarage.
Thanks for the videos. The power steering ones have really been helpful.
Well, this job is "worse than chiggers." But this vid is great instruction. I add: Do like this guy and buy the Honda part. Autozone's was rusted at the sensor threading, and didn't line up at the steering housing. I had to gently bend it. But you can do as he did, painstakingly thread it through without removing anything else (I did loosen a hose guide and shift it).
Great vid. Thanks!
Excellent video! Everything about it was so well done. Thank you for the help.
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
I changed this on my 2000 honda van and video was very helpful. I also broke the clip that plugs into sensor on the line. Everywhere was telling me they had to order from honda dealer. I found it on Rockauto.com for like $14 and had it in no time. Very satisfied with rockauto and would recommend them if you can wait a couple days for a part. Again this video was very helpful. Thank you for posting.
Trevor Blankenship I'm glad it worked out. Rockauto is great and I've used them many times. I recently broke the plastic tab on a fuel injector electrical connector. I found a replacement on eBay and was able to easily remove the contacts from the broken connector and snap them into the new one without having to cut or splice any wires.
This video was very helpful and saved me a lot of time!
Thank you for doing this video - I found it while looking for the same information on a 2005 Pilot. After my initial survey, it looks much the same.
Anyhow - looking for a similar Pilot video - thanks!
Excellent very clear video. It helped me on my 2005 Odyssey.Thanks!
I used an aftermarket hose and it was fine. I did have to bend the hard line on the new part to match the OEM so the flare nut would thread in. The whole job took me 3 hours, from setting up the ramps till end of cleanup, and that included a trip to the store to buy a proper line wrench. I would suggest anyone use ramps or a lift for this job though. Made it much easier to work the hose in and around and get it into position.
Thanks for this outstanding video! I have a 2000 Odyssey with 200k miles - I changed the hose per the video, however the power steering is now growling when I turn the wheel hard right. It seems there might be air in the line.
+armydlguy Yes, likely air in the system. If you followed the proper bleeding procedure, perhaps you are now drawing in air at the pump on the low pressure side. There's an o-ring there that can cause that if it deteriorates or gets damaged.
Just did this repair on my 2007 Odyssey with 157k miles. Almost identical hose and procedure. A couple of notes for the 05-07 Odyssey's:
1. I used a 14mm crow's foot flare nut wrench, rack was very easy to undo.
2. Get the Honda hose for $150. I bought aftermarket for $110 and did it not include the 3 rubber mounts. But I was able to cut them off the old hose and reuse them. And to add insult to injury, the 14mm hex at the steering rack was a 9/16" on the new hose so my flare nut wrench would not work. Luckily I was able to tighten it enough with a regular 9/16" crows foot.
3. The hose will come out and go back in very easily from the bottom on these year models. Literally 1 minute.
4. The hardest part for me was putting the center of 3 hose clamps back on.
5. Keep everything loose until you get the rack started, it is a bit tricky to get it aligned right so it doesn't cross thread.
Tom Shaver how did you cut off and reuse the rubber mounts?
Joshua Brown It was real easy with some Craftsman razor blade scissors I've had for years. Suppose you could do it with a knife too. The rubber is pretty soft. Cut along the flat bottom side and it will slide over the new line and pretty much stay in place.
I connected jet line (thin nylon line used for pulling electrical wires through conduits) to the bottom end of the hose so that when I pulled it out of the car I could see exactly where it went through engine compartment. It allowed me to pull the string (connected to the new hose) down and back through the engine compartment while my buddy fed me the hose. I was really happy I did this, because coarse the hose took through the compartment was fairly complicated.
Patrick Lehrmann Very clever idea! I'm sure having a buddy also helped a lot, too.
worsethanchiggers
Thanks for the great video. It gave me the confidence....but it would have been so tough without it.
5:05. It may sound crude, but before springing for a set of line wrenches, I'd get out my Vise-Grips. If that didn't work, I'd cut off the line and use a standard 14mm socket to remove the flange nut. Great video though. Thanks for posting!
Indeed that's definitely a reasonable approach for the disassembly. Personally, I still found it worthwhile to invest in a set of line wrenches for the reassembly and tightening of the new flare nut. Maybe it's just me but I like to invest in good tools using the money that I saved by doing the job myself.
@@WorseThanChiggers I hear you. One of the tools I bought and later regret buying is a special socket for removing an oxygen sensor. It's a deep socket with a slit up the side to allow the wire to remain attached while loosening the sensor. The problem is, those sensors are usually VERY tight as they rust on to the exhaust. They're so tight, the special socket can't maintain it's shape and the slot begins to widen. When that happens, it lets go of the sensor. Usually the sensor is being replaced so who cares if I cut off the wire and go with a standard deep socket?
I really enjoyed watching your video. Thank you!!!
Great video. I did this over the weekend. Thanks for sharing
thank you so much - i am doing the same procedure on my jaguar x type. You have shown me some great tips - much appreciated :)
Your video makes it look easy I'm going to try it on my 2004 it has a spraying leak on the hose not far from your drip on your video. I'm going to block out my entire weekend to do this. I think I'll but a set of wrenches like you did. The hose is $121 at auto zone so it will still be cheaper if o can accomplish this. Wish me luck
Best of luck and it really is not too difficult. I would recommend that you get an OEM genuine Honda hose rather than an aftermarket one. Some people have had quality and fitment issues with non-OEM alternatives.
+worsethanchiggers will do thanks for the tip
Excellent step-by-step video with clear video, no missing steps and good commentary......
I am wondering that if even with a line wrench if I strip the nut what should I do? I hope to replace my pressure line in the next week or two and want to be prepared in case I mess that nut up. I plan on soaking that nut with PB blaster a few times to help it on its way but I am still weary. Any advice of what to do in case it is stripped would make me a little less anxious about doing it. Thanks.
+Smitty Werbenmanjensen I've heard good suggestions that if you can't get the old flare nut off, just cut the line and use a 6 point socket. That assumes you have not already stripped the nut and rounded it over with a standard open end wrench. A good quality line wrench should do the trick. If you need to cut the line, you might be able to get a compact plumber's pipe cutter up in there which would probably work nicely and cleanly. A hacksaw would work, too, but that runs the risk of contaminating the rack with metal particles. If all else fails, another recent suggestion is to use a large set of vice grips and a cheater pipe.
+worsethanchiggers - Thanks for the excellent advice about cutting the line and using a 6 point ratchet should I start to strip the bolt. Keep up the great videos. Us DIY'ers really appreciate the great detail you put into them!
Great job i have the same problem too, that flare nut is killing me too on my 1999 honda Accord. i guess i gonna have to by one flare nut wrench .
Very good video. I was give great instructions from your video. Everything worked just like clock work. Thanks again for you expertise!!!!!!
Really go video and great job explaining on the right tools to use
thanks for help! I will do same procedure for an accord 99, it looks very easy to do I hope it would be really easy
Well video. My leak exactly the same location. Thanks for post this helpful video.
Very informative and excellently done video! Thank you Very Much for this, Sir!
vice grips work awesome for those line nuts especially if you dont need to reuse it.
Very clear. Thank you. Is it too much to ask for other parts of your car to mess up so that you can make more videos for us? :) Kidding....... sorta.
Hey, don't jinx my rides! :)
You sir are very kind to share the steps and give us amateurs confidence to perform the repair ourselves. A very thorough explanation with a comforting narrative. Many thanks and job well done.
Maybe one suggestion/question -- cutting the old hose during removal may have saved some time instead of keeping it intact. Did removing the hose in one piece help with the 15 min of wrestling the new one into place?
Art Wong Art, thanks for the kind words. I'm just as much an amateur, continuously learning myself, and I enjoy sharing my journey in hopes that it will help others. Good question... I did not consider cutting the old hose which would have definitely helped with its removal. However and as you correctly surmised, that part of the learning processes did help me to know how the new one would need to be routed during installation. It was just a puzzle that needed to be solved and it always takes longer the first time you do something.
worsethanchiggers Even with a flare wrench and extension it wouldn't budge so used a mallet to tap the 13mm end of the wrench hoping the impacts would free the 14 mm nut. After a number of blows the wrench turned but it was the nut being rounded. Then it dawned on me. Cut the tube flush with the nut then use a 14mm socket in the first place. This would save buying a flare set. Hammered the socket on but too late the socket didn't have enough bite on the rounded head and just spun.
Oh well. Next will try a left hand tread screw extractor (not sure if there is enough friction between tube and extractor). As a 2nd last resort vice grips and after that maybe purchase those expensive bolt removing sockets.
Art Wong Never turn down a good excuse to buy a cool new tool! ;)
Awesome video! Please People use only OEM Honda Parts. Bought a after market hose didn't go well. Ordered the Honda Hose it fit like a glove. And the hose was made a lot better believe me. Next up A/T Filter and fill. Any video's out there on the Front Bumper? it"s lose. If not I'll just wing it. Thanks again.
A couple of things make this much easier. First, since you are changing the hose and discarding the old hose, don't worry about how baddly you mangle it - I had to use an 8 inch pipe wrench to get it loose. I tried a 14mm flare nut wrench but no luck. Could not get enough leverage on it to remove it. The pipe wrench did the trick and it loosened up. Secondly, before you pull out the old hose, tie a string to it so you can see the path needed to get the new hose into proper position. Then you will find, it is much easier to put the new hose in from underneath. First thing to do is to disconnect the Oxygen sensor that goes to the exhaust. Then remove the connector from the bracket and push it out of the way. Then, start on the driver's side behind the cross beam that the hose was attached to with the 2 brackets , insert the rubber part of the hose through to the passenger side - not too far because then you will insert the tube with the flare nut into the other side where the old one used to go - just follow the string with regards to where to put it. Once you get the tube in to where you can see it from the driver side wheel well and it is nearly in position to connect back up (it should be at the wrong angle at this point) go back to the hose on the passenger side. You should be able to move it past the bracket next to the bracket that held the oxygen sensor, and into proper position while also working up the hose to the power steering pump - this part is easier if you have someone to help and pull it up from above. The hose should move up towards the PS pump and the person underneath can make any additional adjustments to the positioning - which should be much easier without the oxygen sensor in the way. Once the tube is in place underneath, do not attach the brackets until you are sure you can properly thread the flare nut back into the steering rack. I applied some anti-seize lubricant to the nut (a very small amount) so if I need to do this again, it won't be such a pain in the butt to get that nut loose. It is difficult to get much of the nut in by hand - start it with your fingers and then use an open end wrench/box wrench to gently tighten it until it starts to become snug. Then go back under and attach the 2 clamps and then lastly the clamp on the back of the engine. Attach the connector to the power steering pump and then go back underneath and tighten the flare nut on the steering rack with a flare nut wrench. Re-check your connections and tighten as needed. Do not over-tighten on the aluminum pump or the flare nut on the steering rack. Then go back underneath and put the 2 clamps back on in the proper positions. The clamps have tabs that go into notches on the cross beam. The clamp on the driver side is easy as it is right in front of you when underneath. The other is on top of the cross beam so it can be a bit more difficult. Get the tab into the notch and then thread and finger tighten the bolt and use the socket with a short extension on it by hand and then as it gets tight, use a ratchet. Tighten the other clamp and then go back up top and install the clamp on the back of the engine. Go to the passenger sid wheel well and put the oxygen sensor female plug back onto the bracket and then go back underneath and reconnect the oxygen sensor. From the passenger side wheel well, you should be able to reconnect the PS pressure sensor as well. Make sure your connections are tight and then bleed the power steering. Some of the videos on this said it took hours to get the new hose back into the car. Doing it from underneath, made it much faster. In total, it took an hour to get it back in. But, had I known to remove the oxygen sensor connector from the bracket, I would have been able to shave off about 15 or 20 minutes. Also, approaching it from underneath makes much more sense as you run the tube up to the driver side to the steering rack and the flexible hose through to the passenger side. was much smoother than trying from the side (I tried that too and found it to be a real pain.) Also, I did not have to bend the tube at all to get it back into proper position. Good luck!
Thanks for sharing your video, that realy help.