Thanks for sharing this. This is the best video on UA-cam I've seen for this procedure. I appreciate that you go from purging the reservoir to refilling and bleeding the system. Other videos only go through the actual process of removing and installing. And even with that, they don't show some of the removal process (in particular, the final connection into the rack and pinion). The video quality is excellent. Between the good lighting and camera angles, it's clear what you're doing. Yesterday, I actually did a test run of doing the process to include spraying penetrating oil on all the fittings I'll need to remove. For taking off the fitting going into the R&P, it seemed the best method was to work from the top of the engine, using a line wrench and adding another wrench for leverage. But, after looking at the way you did it with a crow's foot and extension and ratchet, I'll have to try that out. It looks like a promising option. A couple questions: -Some people suggest purging the system of the old PS fluid and replacing it with new. With your process of purging the reservoir and removing the old hose, what % of the old fluid are your actually removing? I'm thinking of actually flushing the system before removing the hose to ensure I have fresh fluid in the entire system before I install the new line. I've got plenty of PS fluid. -Did you consider replacing the sensor "O" ring with a new one? After going through all that work, would seem to be wise to do so, since you risk having a leak. Not a criticism. Just wondering why, you didn't go that route? Thanks again for the great video!
Thank you so much 🙏 What I have done didn’t completely remove all the old fluid, but for sure if you have the time it would be good to flush the entire system while you’re at it. As for the o ring, If you get the proper one I recommend doing so, if not reusing what is there is a surer thing. Just making sure it is still in good condition and clean. I have seen situations were a generic o ring is used and caused a leak.
@@JNBTuning Thanks for your reply. I'm not using the OEM hose (a bit too pricey for my wallet). But I'm using one of the better aftermarket ones that specs out to OEM. I am going to use a genuine Honda "O" ring for the sensor. Thanks again!
Great video. I had changed my pump which was whining quite loudly and it seemed it was obviously the problem because the steering wheel was super hard to turn. When I started to bleed the system with the new pump I noticed air was getting into the reservoir and I tracked down the leak in the hose to pretty much the area you indicated on yours so now thanks to you - I now know how to replace the line. Thank you!
Thanks for the inspiration to DIY this job. I just tackled my 07 Odyssey’s power steering line over the weekend. One thing that was helpful removing the flair nut was to remove the air box along with a long 14 millimeter open end or open box end wrench. The short time it took me to remove it cut the time and aggravation struggling with it underneath the cat better than half. Doing it by myself,I had a time putting the line back in place to reconnect the flair nut. However, as I stated before, it was a breeze to connect it from the top. Thought this would be helpful information to other DIY’er’s .
Indeed this is a good info thank you! Specifically to anyone who will tackle this job on a Jack standards. I am glad to hear that I could be that inspiring!
For those who are interested in the torque settings for this job. From my Honda Service/Shop Manual: 1) Bolts Connecting HP Hose to PS Pump: 8 ft-lbs 2)PS Pressure Switch: 8.7 ft-lbs 3) Feed Hose Flare Nut: 27 ft-lbs. The best of success on this one.
Im getting ready to do my van tomorrow morning your video was very informative and you did an awesome job and you were very clean I give you a lot of respect for showing me every detail of what I need to do. Once again your video was very helpful and I thank you very much for showing and sharing the knowledge I need to do on my van step by step thank you! I hope your video can help a lot more people just like me so I don’t get ripped off by money hungry mechanics.. lol
Thanks for the video - just did mine yesterday after watching. I had a hell of a time getting that nut on the end of the hose started on the rack and was surprised it did not turn all the way in. I see yours had some threads still showing at the end too at 28:42 so I presume that's intended. Looking at my old hose, I could see some dirty threads near the top so I feel like my old one had exposed threads too. Anyway... thanks again.
@Lance You are welcome! Did you purchase an OEM original or aftermarket? As long as the nut is tightened up and not leaking around the fitting after the fact…it should be ok.
Great video sir. I did find and easier way to disconnect the hose from the rack and from the top. I removed the air box and I had access from the top. What I did, I used a buckeye to cut the hose and used a socket and my serpentine belt tool and a piece of pipe, it broke easily.
@@jean-pierrehall2914 yes, I replaced belt and tensioner. I ordered a belt tensioner kit from Amazon. It worked perfectly. I needed my daughter to hold tensioner while I routed belt from bottom.
I would recommend replacing the pressure sensor as long as you're there. I just worked on one that had a new rack pump and lines and still leaked. I found fluid coming from the high pressure sensor.
good vid, I have same year odyssey, just did a power steering system flush as it was making noise. after the flush (changing it 6x ) it was good 5x with honda compatible fluid and last time I used Lucus fluid with seal conditioners ( a universal fluid ) and that quited up the power steering noise , even on cold morning startups
When I have done this on my beloved Pilot, I didn’t have the lift yet and I have done it laying down from the bottom. I didn’t try but I am sure you could possibly get to the bolt from the top as well given you clear the area for easy access. All the best and keep me posted!
@@JNBTuning curious how was the experience from underneath, debating if it can be done from under the car. Also, did you use all brackets or just zip ties? :)
@@maverickperson5443 I can’t lie, doing it on the floor is very difficult as the bolt is so tucked in. I did reuse all braces and brackets in the process.
crows feet flare nut wrench was nice touch . i ordered me some on amazon, but hesitating on changing my line for the reason it has zero leaks just showing cracking at tHAT area. but no leaks
Getting ready to do my 2006 MDX. Any extra tips for me as I will be on the floor? Jack stands vs front end on ramps. Best video I have watched. Thank you!
@dodo13500 thank you 🙏 Have the front end on the ramp it will be safer. Make sure to chalk the rear wheel in the process unless you will be lifting it on standards. All the best and be safe!!
Luckily. My 05 pilot was very hard to do! The line was trapped between lower engine frame and firewall. Had to start to split or drop the lower engine frame, just to get enough room. Very tough
Having trouble with mine, looks like it rusted over, the nut doesn’t appear to have anything to latch onto with my wrench, almost no space to work with
Menerjemahkan teks dengan kamera Hello Sir, I am a subscriber from Indonesia, I just replaced my car's power steering high pressure hose because it was leaking. But after replacing the hose, when my car steering wheel turned left or right, there was a buzzing sound in my power steering and the steering was heavier than before. In fact, before replacing the high pressure hose, there were no problems as I stated above. Where do you think the cause lies, because I tried taking it to a repair shop and they said someone analyzed it because my steering pump was problematic and someone analyzed it and said it was because the steering worm was heavy? I ask for help with this because you are definitely the expert. Thank you before . I'm waiting to hear from you.
@@Lifesituations8000 when was the last time it was done do you think? I know, you are already there and you would hate to come back there later again. I would say if you have the new hose readily then go for it for sure and keep the old part for spare, otherwise I will leave it all to you.
When he's under the car, after removing first two bolts he reaches up and says "I've got the top off" and pulls a rubber housing off of something. I have no idea what that was but I guess I'll find out when I try this.
Check to make sure the line is installed properly and not leaking. Did you fill up and primer the fluid properly. Otherwise your power steering has gone bad.
I take it you are a self-taught parts changer. I have never seen a mechanic who makes life so difficult for themselves. Do you not understand when doing things like changing out the sensor, having both wrench's almost side by side gives you more leverage, and less chance to skin your knuckles, or mess up the sensor or pipe?
Thanks for sharing this. This is the best video on UA-cam I've seen for this procedure. I appreciate that you go from purging the reservoir to refilling and bleeding the system. Other videos only go through the actual process of removing and installing. And even with that, they don't show some of the removal process (in particular, the final connection into the rack and pinion). The video quality is excellent. Between the good lighting and camera angles, it's clear what you're doing. Yesterday, I actually did a test run of doing the process to include spraying penetrating oil on all the fittings I'll need to remove. For taking off the fitting going into the R&P, it seemed the best method was to work from the top of the engine, using a line wrench and adding another wrench for leverage. But, after looking at the way you did it with a crow's foot and extension and ratchet, I'll have to try that out. It looks like a promising option.
A couple questions:
-Some people suggest purging the system of the old PS fluid and replacing it with new. With your process of purging the reservoir and removing the old hose, what % of the old fluid are your actually removing? I'm thinking of actually flushing the system before removing the hose to ensure I have fresh fluid in the entire system before I install the new line. I've got plenty of PS fluid.
-Did you consider replacing the sensor "O" ring with a new one? After going through all that work, would seem to be wise to do so, since you risk having a leak. Not a criticism. Just wondering why, you didn't go that route?
Thanks again for the great video!
Thank you so much 🙏 What I have done didn’t completely remove all the old fluid, but for sure if you have the time it would be good to flush the entire system while you’re at it. As for the o ring, If you get the proper one I recommend doing so, if not reusing what is there is a surer thing. Just making sure it is still in good condition and clean. I have seen situations were a generic o ring is used and caused a leak.
@@JNBTuning Thanks for your reply. I'm not using the OEM hose (a bit too pricey for my wallet). But I'm using one of the better aftermarket ones that specs out to OEM. I am going to use a genuine Honda "O" ring for the sensor. Thanks again!
@@dads3boys that would work just fine! Let me know how it goes.
Mabuhay ka chief. ‘One of bests I’ve seen.
Great video. I had changed my pump which was whining quite loudly and it seemed it was obviously the problem because the steering wheel was super hard to turn. When I started to bleed the system with the new pump I noticed air was getting into the reservoir and I tracked down the leak in the hose to pretty much the area you indicated on yours so now thanks to you - I now know how to replace the line. Thank you!
Thanks for the inspiration to DIY this job. I just tackled my 07 Odyssey’s power steering line over the weekend. One thing that was helpful removing the flair nut was to remove the air box along with a long 14 millimeter open end or open box end wrench. The short time it took me to remove it cut the time and aggravation struggling with it underneath the cat better than half. Doing it by myself,I had a time putting the line back in place to reconnect the flair nut. However, as I stated before, it was a breeze to connect it from the top. Thought this would be helpful information to other DIY’er’s .
Indeed this is a good info thank you! Specifically to anyone who will tackle this job on a Jack standards. I am glad to hear that I could be that inspiring!
pardon my ignorance, you're saying this work can be done all from the top, no need to jack the car and go underneath?
Not possible. Theres a bracket with a 10mm underneath plus a sensor you have to unplug underneath. @lalolalo1233
You're right. My mechanic did the job, started from top and had to go underneath. Thanks again.@@Tom-h4g6y
Just completed on my van. Greatly appreciate the thorough video.
You are very welcome! Thank you for letting me know. I am very glad my vid helped.
JNB Tunning This is a very very good video,super clear to understand, nice camera and no noise music.Beautiful.God bless you.
Thank you very much!
For those who are interested in the torque settings for this job. From my Honda Service/Shop Manual: 1) Bolts Connecting HP Hose to PS Pump: 8 ft-lbs 2)PS Pressure Switch: 8.7 ft-lbs 3) Feed Hose Flare Nut: 27 ft-lbs. The best of success on this one.
the best most meticulous video of how to do the work.
Wow, thanks! Very glad to hear 🙏 People like you are the biggest inspiration for me to keep sharing.
Im getting ready to do my van tomorrow morning your video was very informative and you did an awesome job and you were very clean I give you a lot of respect for showing me every detail of what I need to do. Once again your video was very helpful and I thank you very much for showing and sharing the knowledge I need to do on my van step by step thank you! I hope your video can help a lot more people just like me so I don’t get ripped off by money hungry mechanics.. lol
@Ivan Rivera Thank you for letting me know! I am glad I could help out. All the best tomorrow and please be safe first and foremost.
The shop is clean and very well organized
Thank you 🙏
Thanks for the video - just did mine yesterday after watching. I had a hell of a time getting that nut on the end of the hose started on the rack and was surprised it did not turn all the way in. I see yours had some threads still showing at the end too at 28:42 so I presume that's intended. Looking at my old hose, I could see some dirty threads near the top so I feel like my old one had exposed threads too. Anyway... thanks again.
@Lance You are welcome! Did you purchase an OEM original or aftermarket? As long as the nut is tightened up and not leaking around the fitting after the fact…it should be ok.
?..?
Gracias maestro por compartir tu experiencia.
De nada!!
I like that you show a lot of detail in your video. Thanks for sharing
You’re welcome and thank you for reaching out!
Great video sir. I did find and easier way to disconnect the hose from the rack and from the top. I removed the air box and I had access from the top. What I did, I used a buckeye to cut the hose and used a socket and my serpentine belt tool and a piece of pipe, it broke easily.
Thank you 🙏 as well thanks for sharing your find process I am sure everyone can benefit from.
Great suggestion. And did you use serpentine belt tool to install? Thx
@@jean-pierrehall2914 yes, I replaced belt and tensioner. I ordered a belt tensioner kit from Amazon. It worked perfectly. I needed my daughter to hold tensioner while I routed belt from bottom.
Excellent job some nice tips as well you garage set is Awesome.
Thank you bro. Much appreciated!! 😁
Great and nice video.
Thank you 🙏
I would recommend replacing the pressure sensor as long as you're there. I just worked on one that had a new rack pump and lines and still leaked. I found fluid coming from the high pressure sensor.
good vid, I have same year odyssey, just did a power steering system flush as it was making noise. after the flush (changing it 6x ) it was good 5x with honda compatible fluid and last time I used Lucus fluid with seal conditioners ( a universal fluid ) and that quited up the power steering noise , even on cold morning startups
The flush will definitely work!
Great video very well explained thanks for sharing.
You’re very welcome! Glad to hear🙏
Clean and nice job, just about to do my van with same issue, you video is awesome. Thank you.
You are very welcome! Thank you for letting me know!
Thx, doing this on a 2007 Honda Pilot without any lift, what would be the best approach to crack the 14mm - from the top or any option via bottom? Thx
When I have done this on my beloved Pilot, I didn’t have the lift yet and I have done it laying down from the bottom. I didn’t try but I am sure you could possibly get to the bolt from the top as well given you clear the area for easy access. All the best and keep me posted!
@@JNBTuning curious how was the experience from underneath, debating if it can be done from under the car. Also, did you use all brackets or just zip ties? :)
@@maverickperson5443 I can’t lie, doing it on the floor is very difficult as the bolt is so tucked in. I did reuse all braces and brackets in the process.
crows feet flare nut wrench was nice touch . i ordered me some on amazon, but hesitating on changing my line for the reason it has zero leaks just showing cracking at tHAT area. but no leaks
What a great straight to the point instructions. Question, would this procedure work for a 2007 Honda CR-V?
Thank you 🙏. It is very similar with the K series CRVs I would recommend looking up a Video on one just for reference. But it is very close.
For sure. Thank you again for confirming.
Torque values
2 10mm bolts to Power steering pump
11 N-m
(1.1 kgf-m, 8.0 Ibf-ft)
POWER STEERING
PRESSURE SWITCH
12 N-m
(1.2 kgf-m, 8.7 Ibf-ft)
INLET LINE to steering box
14 x 1.5 mm
37 N.m
(3.8 kgf-m, 27 Ibf ft)
Thank you 🙏
Great video..
Thank you 🙏 glad to hear!!
Getting ready to do my 2006 MDX. Any extra tips for me as I will be on the floor? Jack stands vs front end on ramps. Best video I have watched. Thank you!
@dodo13500 thank you 🙏 Have the front end on the ramp it will be safer. Make sure to chalk the rear wheel in the process unless you will be lifting it on standards. All the best and be safe!!
Luckily. My 05 pilot was very hard to do! The line was trapped between lower engine frame and firewall. Had to start to split or drop the lower engine frame, just to get enough room. Very tough
Have you ever changed one for a 2006 crv?
No but it should be very similar within all the Honda vehicles
Where did you buy your lift bro.
From Ross @ Lift King
Where did you get that lift jack from ?
How many miles did the Odyssey have? Thanks
It has over 200K km
Having trouble with mine, looks like it rusted over, the nut doesn’t appear to have anything to latch onto with my wrench, almost no space to work with
Hope you’re able get it out! It sure is very tight down there. All the best!
Long story short, I have to bring it into a shop to have it removed otherwise I’ll have to replace the entire rack and pinion
Where are you located? I need my hose done!
Menerjemahkan teks dengan kamera
Hello Sir, I am a subscriber from Indonesia, I just replaced my car's power steering high pressure hose because it was leaking. But after replacing the hose, when my car steering wheel turned left or right, there was a buzzing sound in my power steering and the steering was heavier than before. In fact, before replacing the high pressure hose, there were no problems as I stated above.
Where do you think the cause lies, because I tried taking it to a repair shop and they said someone analyzed it because my steering pump was problematic and someone analyzed it and said it was because the steering worm was heavy? I ask for help with this because you are definitely the expert. Thank you before . I'm waiting to hear from you.
How long did the job take?
Working on the lift it probably took me 2 to 3 hours minus the filming I would say. Doing it from the floor on a stands will take a little more time.
Do you have to replace the hose when replacing the rack?
It depends on the condition and how old it is.
@@JNBTuning I don't really see any leaks on the hose
@@Lifesituations8000 when was the last time it was done do you think? I know, you are already there and you would hate to come back there later again. I would say if you have the new hose readily then go for it for sure and keep the old part for spare, otherwise I will leave it all to you.
@@JNBTuning I'm sure it was done at least 4 years ago
Chief, Saan mo nabili Yang lift?ncool
Sa Lift King yan nabili ko
@@JNBTuning thanks brother
Thanks for this. I'm assuming this works for Acura as well.
The Crowsfoot is 14mm?
Yes it was 14mm. It should be pretty similar to the Acura vehicle as well
When he's under the car, after removing first two bolts he reaches up and says "I've got the top off" and pulls a rubber housing off of something. I have no idea what that was but I guess I'll find out when I try this.
Oh it's the sensor
After i replace the line the steering hard to turn
Check to make sure the line is installed properly and not leaking. Did you fill up and primer the fluid properly. Otherwise your power steering has gone bad.
Are the crowfoot wrenches regular or flared?
Flared
💙🙏🙏🙏
💙💙🙏🙏💖
Thank you 🙏
How much was the oem high pressure hose?
I believe my bro in-law mentioned it was around $275+
Pricey I wonder if the non oem are just as good
@@colemancalgary5260 the aftermarket ones are under $80. All depends on how old and/or how long you are going to keep the car.
Ààà
I take it you are a self-taught parts changer. I have never seen a mechanic who makes life so difficult for themselves. Do you not understand when doing things like changing out the sensor, having both wrench's almost side by side gives you more leverage, and less chance to skin your knuckles, or mess up the sensor or pipe?
great video
Thank you 🙏