I'm a mobile mechanic as well, and just put in engine in the same van and everything is great except this exact problem. I'm running out to go check the wires haha. You earned an instant subscribe from me!
This was very helpful. P0340 on 2000 f150, 4.2. Changed sensor cap. Same. IMRC code also. Cleared that up. Several evap,purge valve circuit codes. New entire cam position sensor. Idles nice. Runs out ok, but gets a little" off" at top of gear. After IMRC code cleared, ran better. Still has p0 340 and purge, evap codes. Salvage title truck. 265 k on odometer. No miss codes through whole thing. Plug wires likely. Also suspecting evap,purge stuff as it also controls IMRC. Truck actually runs well.
I was called to another garage to fix a 2005 300c chrysler. The problems they noticed with the car was Hard or no start, red lightning bolt flashing, no throttle response, headlight stays on, battery and ESP light remaining ON during, most times immediate stalling after starting however, if it doesn't stall there's a rough idle throughout idling as a result a new PCM was replaced with a new one however problem still persisted. I scanned for DTC codes and saw a P0340, P2167, P2166, P2115, P2116, p0603 and more module codes like C2202, U0168, U1414, B1A25, etc. Please, how can I fix these problems? Can you also 🙏 provide me with the wiring diagram to CMP, CKP, APP factory values and how to test them? What should I be looking for in fixing the blinking red lightning bolt limp mode light, how can I reset the throttle without a scanner?
I found I had a misfire I replaced my plugs, that fixed the misfire, BUT when engines cold and I come to a stop it bucks and bogs down almost wants to die then immediately runs fine when engine warms up it only does this in the winter every morning when the temperature is under 45 I have no signs of this bucking and wanting to stall in summer also when vehicle in idle it runs fine no misfire. Would you know the causes of this the only error code is a fuel tank pressure sensor error code could that be the problem?
Thank you for this video, it has been very helpful. I happen to have the exact van you demonstrated on this video, with the same specifications with the exception that its a 2001. Anyway, I happen to have the same issue, I got a code P0300 at first some 2.5 years ago, it was the camshaft position sensor, I replaced the part and the problem was supposedly solved, but wasn't. A new code came up; P0340. This time showing; spark plugs, wires or ignition coil. Ignition coil was replaced, everything else was ok, but it still didn't solve the problem. I am not sure if I should remove the camshaft again or what. What is your suggestion or advice? I hope you can help me out on this. Thank you again.
Maybe it is fixed or maybe it's coming back to bite you. I suspect the exhaust rattling is the catalytic converter core is loose and under load it is blocking the exhaust flow enough to cause a misfire. Loose catalytic converter core will also give the dpfe sensor false readings. Idenifix made the link between cam sensor signal code and dpfe sensor problems.
@@billm-r3p Good thoughts. If the converter was broken apart inside it would throw a P0420. Before the repairs the engine light would come back on pretty quickly. After the repairs it was test driven extensively and the code never came back.
I'm a mobile mechanic as well, and just put in engine in the same van and everything is great except this exact problem. I'm running out to go check the wires haha. You earned an instant subscribe from me!
This was very helpful. P0340 on 2000 f150, 4.2. Changed sensor cap. Same. IMRC code also. Cleared that up. Several evap,purge valve circuit codes. New entire cam position sensor. Idles nice. Runs out ok, but gets a little" off" at top of gear. After IMRC code cleared, ran better. Still has p0 340 and purge, evap codes. Salvage title truck. 265 k on odometer.
No miss codes through whole thing. Plug wires likely. Also suspecting evap,purge stuff as it also controls IMRC.
Truck actually runs well.
Glad this video was helpful 👍. Keep us updated on the results once you replace the plugs and wires.
I was called to another garage to fix a 2005 300c chrysler. The problems they noticed with the car was Hard or no start, red lightning bolt flashing, no throttle response, headlight stays on, battery and ESP light remaining ON during, most times immediate stalling after starting however, if it doesn't stall there's a rough idle throughout idling as a result a new PCM was replaced with a new one however problem still persisted.
I scanned for DTC codes and saw a P0340, P2167, P2166, P2115, P2116, p0603 and more module codes like C2202, U0168, U1414, B1A25, etc.
Please, how can I fix these problems?
Can you also 🙏 provide me with the wiring diagram to CMP, CKP, APP factory values and how to test them? What should I be looking for in fixing the blinking red lightning bolt limp mode light, how can I reset the throttle without a scanner?
I found I had a misfire I replaced my plugs, that fixed the misfire, BUT when engines cold and I come to a stop it bucks and bogs down almost wants to die then immediately runs fine when engine warms up it only does this in the winter every morning when the temperature is under 45 I have no signs of this bucking and wanting to stall in summer also when vehicle in idle it runs fine no misfire. Would you know the causes of this the only error code is a fuel tank pressure sensor error code could that be the problem?
Thank you for this video, it has been very helpful. I happen to have the exact van you demonstrated on this video, with the same specifications with the exception that its a 2001. Anyway, I happen to have the same issue, I got a code P0300 at first some 2.5 years ago, it was the camshaft position sensor, I replaced the part and the problem was supposedly solved, but wasn't. A new code came up; P0340. This time showing; spark plugs, wires or ignition coil. Ignition coil was replaced, everything else was ok, but it still didn't solve the problem. I am not sure if I should remove the camshaft again or what. What is your suggestion or advice? I hope you can help me out on this. Thank you again.
that a good one never seen that code for cam sensor on a ignition problem on ford
I had the save problem with my old ford with the shuttering and lack of power turned out to be the same fix. Very cool.
Maybe it is fixed or maybe it's coming back to bite you. I suspect the exhaust rattling is the catalytic converter core is loose and under load it is blocking the exhaust flow enough to cause a misfire. Loose catalytic converter core will also give the dpfe sensor false readings. Idenifix made the link between cam sensor signal code and dpfe sensor problems.
@@billm-r3p Good thoughts. If the converter was broken apart inside it would throw a P0420. Before the repairs the engine light would come back on pretty quickly. After the repairs it was test driven extensively and the code never came back.