This is the only video I have found that shows how to update the trucks with this kind of mount. Filling the plug hole is the answer I've been looking for. Thank you
I used a similar method in the 1970s, to Re-Truck various Rivarossi ( AHM) US- Prototype Cars, with 2mm MA brass bushes in the Frame, and 2mm Round head Brass Screws to hold the Trucks in Place ( I was exchanging sprung ArchBar Frames with the original solid cast frames. Also the plastic wheels were replaced with Metal ( KayDee RP25) wheel sets.) For couplers, I used the Cast Pockets in the frame for KD #5 Couplers, and locked in with KD coverplate and 2MA mm screw. Any dislevel between different cars' Couplers fixed with shim washers on bolsters, All holes threaded by Hand, using aT Tap guide in a Mini-lathe on " Hand power " Brass Tube from K&S Brass Tube, Illinois. PS 1974-83, I was in Nthn. Italy at Med School...HO and Sn42 were my modelling interests ( Aussie rifle hobby out of the question) Now, 50 years later, I still have a Dormant Railmodel interest ( Armchair) after a 40 year business in Guns, Ammo, and Films....the Railmodels are about to do a Pompeii or Krakatoa.. in On42 ( scratch built; wood, styrene, card, brass & steel). I reckon in 10 years I should be able to complete my Project...I'm 74 now... DocAV Brisbane Australia
You have certainly not shied away from difficult modeling challenges! Sn42... On42... hand-tapping threads in brass... K&S is an unappreciated supplier. I buy their brass tubing with 0.006" wall thickness - most commonly available tubing has 0.014" wall, leaving less room for wiring... Keep modeling, whether in your armchair or at your work bench!
Comments like yours let me know that I am achieving my goal of helping other modelers by providing solutions to simple problems. Thanks for the feedback and goo luck.
You did a terrific job given what you had to work with. For what it’s worth I’ve been “rehabbing” old Tyco/Mantua 50 ft flat cars. It’s actually not too bad a starting place. I follow most of the steps you use. If the stirrups are missing I reform a common household staple into a reasonable stand in for the stirrups. When possible I reuse the trucks by cutting off the couplers and sanding the area smooth. KDs and metal wheel sets are used. As for the deck, it comes off easily and I apply double sided tape. I cut wooden coffee stirrers (1000 for about $15) to the correct width and stain them with diluted India ink, and then I simply remove the backing from the tape and add the boards one by one. (it’s actually kind of relaxing 😅) The wood is slightly oversized but not too noticeable especially if a load is applied. A brake wheel from the scrap box and a small piece of brass wire complete the job. I certainly take inspiration from the work you are doing and look forward to seeing more.
I like your approach. I tried using brass or phosphor-bronze wire for stirrups, but it was too hard to flatten them to get that step look; never thought of staples. The uncut wood coffee strirrers would make a good raw lumber load, too. BTW, you should check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/Ilu3CIcprqw/v-deo.html&lc=UgyE3RD1dROFOwP122J4AaABAg
Nice video. I like doing the same with low cost structures destined for a young person’s serious layout. The car is too new for me as well but somebody will get a nice addition.
Saving this video as a favorite. I just purchased an AHM Calcium Carbide car and need to replace the trucks/couplers as you did. AHM was the only mfr. to make this style of car which holds 22 CC bottles (need to be made from scratch). A Union Carbide industry near where I lived back in the 1960s used to receive this type of car, which I thought was unique. I finally bought one after all this time!
It's a shame AHM did not provide the bottles to go in the car. I found pictures of two different styles of container online - one is square and one is round. Which style do you remember?
@@rwissbaum9849 The ones I saw years ago were always round. Wish I had taken a photo of the cars. I did find a couple websites that sell round and square containers for HO cars. I might go that route though it would be more expensive buying 22 bottles. I was particularly impressed with your finished Rail Box graphics....Really good job!
I see Shapeways has some round containers that are *much* less expensive: about $3 each as opposed to $7. Here is the link: www.shapeways.com/product/W8SYJQAWM/calcium-carbide-container-early-6-pcs If you order from Shapeways, I *strongly* recommend selecting Fine Detail Plastic as your material - the printed items will have a smoother surface. Good luck! WAIT! Looking more closely at the Steel Mill Modelers Supply page, I see the $7 cost is for *five* cans, not one. This makes the Shapeways option both more expensive and less detailed. Even so, you'd $35 bucks worth of parts to fill your $15 car.
@@rwissbaum9849 I believe those were the two sites I had found. Thank you for checking prices. You almost nailed the car price exactly. The car was $7 and shipping/sales tax was another $7 for a total of $14. It is a lot to spend adding details to the cheaper car but a one time splurge shouldn't hit my wallet too hard. Nice thing about this car is you can legitimately keep the bottles on all the time since they would be either empty or full. Buying 25 bottles would give me a few extras to leave at the industry.
I can;t tell you how many times I've spent more on the details than I spent on the basic model! But, it's those details that make all the difference. Send me a photo when you get your car finished.
Oven Cleaner will strip paint overnight easy. I do this a lot, like hundreds, upgrade cheap cars. I have begun to wonder. Two trucks $2, Four metal wheels $5.00, Kadee coupler and box, $4, Paint and other details, $3.00. The cost of a car $1 to $5. Maybe I should have just bought a nicer car? Your two tube for a wheel socket is a great idea I had not figured out very well. Thanks.
Thanks for the tip on the oven cleaner - I'll try that if I'm ever short of IPA. Regarding the cost of refurbishing: It seems that HO freight cars come in two tiers: there is the $20 tier (give or take) which features cast-on details, plastic wheelsets, and knuckle couplers by Accurail, Bachmann, and the like. You'll still spend $5 to $10 getting the wheels and couplers replaced. Then there's the $40 - $50 tier - Kadee, Scale Trains, Tangent, and the like. These come with fantastic detail and very high quality couplers and metal wheels. The point is this: you can spend $40 - $50 per car and have a beautifully detailed and excellent performing roster, or you can spend $10 - $20 plus 2 to 4 hours of your time, and still have a nicely detailed and excellent performing roster. It's all about the tradeoffs. Charles Smiley did a nice video taking this to the next level. See it here: ua-cam.com/video/XBqyLnHpH3E/v-deo.html (I have a similar video in the works - look for it in the coming months.) Thanks for watching.
I use Accurail sideframes (Accurail #151) with Intermountain 33" metal wheelsets (Intermountain 40055). Buying in bulk, my trucks cost me $5.70 per pair. The Accurail sideframes slip perfectly over the 1/8" tubing. Thanks for watching!
Two comments: The door varies greatly. Is it possible to install a custom door or replicate the ribbing with styrene strip. Also, the taps stick out. I would have glued and puttied then sanded down the seams. Even then plastic surgery can be be difficult to make absolute seamless Nice work all the same.
You've put your finger on the part of the rebuild that I felt was least successful. The cast-on door was difficult to paint properly, and even though I was very careful about masking, I did not achieve a smooth line. I agree that a more radical surgery could have resulted in a better model. However, my main purpose here was to show how to replace truck-mounted couplers. I also wanted to demonstrate how to repaint a very garish model using a light-colored paint. Overall, the result was, at best, acceptable; but it was not stellar. Perhaps for a future video, I'll try removing a cast-in door and replacing it with a sliding door... Thanks for the comments.
I usually use super glue and baking soda for fills which works great and can be sanded. I've used this method on several models and they came out great. Cheers from eastern TN
First, thanks for watching. Yes, I do sometimes strip the old paint, but since I'm basically lazy (and since stripping paint is a pretty messy process) I avoid it when I can. See my video "Refurbishing an Inexpensive Passenger Car" for one example. In general, I strip the old paint ONLY if the paint job is just horrible, or if I am worried that it will take many coats of paint to cover the old paint job. In my video "Rebuilding an Inexpensive HO Scale Tank Car" you'll see an example of a time when I probably should have stripped the paint, but didn't. That car had slightly raised printing on a white body, and I didn't notice that the lettering was raised until I had repainted. The result: the old lettering showed as a ghost on the repainted car! I didn't stress over this: railroad cars are sold and repainted all the time, and I'm pretty sure the new owners didn't strip the old paint...
NIce work ! I really like the fix for the steps, so many old box cars have broken ones.
This is the only video I have found that shows how to update the trucks with this kind of mount. Filling the plug hole is the answer I've been looking for. Thank you
You're very welcome. Best of luck.
Great video on how to refurbish old TYCO cars. Thanks for sharing.
I used a similar method in the 1970s, to Re-Truck various Rivarossi ( AHM) US- Prototype Cars, with 2mm MA brass bushes in the Frame, and 2mm Round head Brass Screws to hold the Trucks in Place ( I was exchanging sprung ArchBar Frames with the original solid cast frames. Also the plastic wheels were replaced with Metal ( KayDee RP25) wheel sets.)
For couplers, I used the Cast Pockets in the frame for KD #5 Couplers, and locked in with KD coverplate and 2MA mm screw.
Any dislevel between different cars' Couplers fixed with shim washers on bolsters,
All holes threaded by Hand, using aT Tap guide in a Mini-lathe on " Hand power "
Brass Tube from K&S Brass Tube, Illinois.
PS 1974-83, I was in Nthn. Italy at Med School...HO and Sn42 were my modelling interests ( Aussie rifle hobby out of the question)
Now, 50 years later, I still have a Dormant Railmodel interest ( Armchair) after a 40 year business in Guns, Ammo, and Films....the Railmodels are about to do a Pompeii or Krakatoa.. in On42 ( scratch built; wood, styrene, card, brass
& steel).
I reckon in 10 years I should be able to complete my Project...I'm 74 now...
DocAV
Brisbane Australia
You have certainly not shied away from difficult modeling challenges! Sn42... On42... hand-tapping threads in brass...
K&S is an unappreciated supplier. I buy their brass tubing with 0.006" wall thickness - most commonly available tubing has 0.014" wall, leaving less room for wiring...
Keep modeling, whether in your armchair or at your work bench!
I have a bunch of old Tyco cars that I want to move the couplers to the body. This video was just what i was looking for. Great job!
Comments like yours let me know that I am achieving my goal of helping other modelers by providing solutions to simple problems. Thanks for the feedback and goo luck.
Nice job on the car and the research on railbox
Truly cool
Nice solution to the Tyco trucks, I have a few Mehano gondolas that would benefit from that treatment
Incredible work!
Thanks!
You did a terrific job given what you had to work with. For what it’s worth I’ve been “rehabbing” old Tyco/Mantua 50 ft flat cars. It’s actually not too bad a starting place. I follow most of the steps you use. If the stirrups are missing I reform a common household staple into a reasonable stand in for the stirrups. When possible I reuse the trucks by cutting off the couplers and sanding the area smooth. KDs and metal wheel sets are used. As for the deck, it comes off easily and I apply double sided tape. I cut wooden coffee stirrers (1000 for about $15) to the correct width and stain them with diluted India ink, and then I simply remove the backing from the tape and add the boards one by one. (it’s actually kind of relaxing 😅) The wood is slightly oversized but not too noticeable especially if a load is applied. A brake wheel from the scrap box and a small piece of brass wire complete the job. I certainly take inspiration from the work you are doing and look forward to seeing more.
I like your approach. I tried using brass or phosphor-bronze wire for stirrups, but it was too hard to flatten them to get that step look; never thought of staples. The uncut wood coffee strirrers would make a good raw lumber load, too. BTW, you should check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/Ilu3CIcprqw/v-deo.html&lc=UgyE3RD1dROFOwP122J4AaABAg
Nice video. I like doing the same with low cost structures destined for a young person’s serious layout. The car is too new for me as well but somebody will get a nice addition.
Pretty darn cool
Thanks.
Very Nice Tyco
Saving this video as a favorite. I just purchased an AHM Calcium Carbide car and need to replace the trucks/couplers as you did. AHM was the only mfr. to make this style of car which holds 22 CC bottles (need to be made from scratch). A Union Carbide industry near where I lived back in the 1960s used to receive this type of car, which I thought was unique. I finally bought one after all this time!
It's a shame AHM did not provide the bottles to go in the car. I found pictures of two different styles of container online - one is square and one is round. Which style do you remember?
@@rwissbaum9849 The ones I saw years ago were always round. Wish I had taken a photo of the cars. I did find a couple websites that sell round and square containers for HO cars. I might go that route though it would be more expensive buying 22 bottles. I was particularly impressed with your finished Rail Box graphics....Really good job!
I see Shapeways has some round containers that are *much* less expensive: about $3 each as opposed to $7. Here is the link: www.shapeways.com/product/W8SYJQAWM/calcium-carbide-container-early-6-pcs If you order from Shapeways, I *strongly* recommend selecting Fine Detail Plastic as your material - the printed items will have a smoother surface. Good luck! WAIT!
Looking more closely at the Steel Mill Modelers Supply page, I see the $7 cost is for *five* cans, not one. This makes the Shapeways option both more expensive and less detailed. Even so, you'd $35 bucks worth of parts to fill your $15 car.
@@rwissbaum9849 I believe those were the two sites I had found. Thank you for checking prices. You almost nailed the car price exactly. The car was $7 and shipping/sales tax was another $7 for a total of $14. It is a lot to spend adding details to the cheaper car but a one time splurge shouldn't hit my wallet too hard. Nice thing about this car is you can legitimately keep the bottles on all the time since they would be either empty or full. Buying 25 bottles would give me a few extras to leave at the industry.
I can;t tell you how many times I've spent more on the details than I spent on the basic model! But, it's those details that make all the difference. Send me a photo when you get your car finished.
Oven Cleaner will strip paint overnight easy. I do this a lot, like hundreds, upgrade cheap cars. I have begun to wonder. Two trucks $2, Four metal wheels $5.00, Kadee coupler and box, $4, Paint and other details, $3.00. The cost of a car $1 to $5. Maybe I should have just bought a nicer car? Your two tube for a wheel socket is a great idea I had not figured out very well. Thanks.
Thanks for the tip on the oven cleaner - I'll try that if I'm ever short of IPA. Regarding the cost of refurbishing: It seems that HO freight cars come in two tiers: there is the $20 tier (give or take) which features cast-on details, plastic wheelsets, and knuckle couplers by Accurail, Bachmann, and the like. You'll still spend $5 to $10 getting the wheels and couplers replaced. Then there's the $40 - $50 tier - Kadee, Scale Trains, Tangent, and the like. These come with fantastic detail and very high quality couplers and metal wheels. The point is this: you can spend $40 - $50 per car and have a beautifully detailed and excellent performing roster, or you can spend $10 - $20 plus 2 to 4 hours of your time, and still have a nicely detailed and excellent performing roster. It's all about the tradeoffs.
Charles Smiley did a nice video taking this to the next level. See it here: ua-cam.com/video/XBqyLnHpH3E/v-deo.html (I have a similar video in the works - look for it in the coming months.)
Thanks for watching.
nice redo.👰👍
Hi what trucks did you use onto your custom post? I have some vintage Lima and want to do a similar conversion. Thank you!
I use Accurail sideframes (Accurail #151) with Intermountain 33" metal wheelsets (Intermountain 40055). Buying in bulk, my trucks cost me $5.70 per pair.
The Accurail sideframes slip perfectly over the 1/8" tubing.
Thanks for watching!
Two comments:
The door varies greatly. Is it possible to install a custom door or replicate the ribbing with styrene strip.
Also, the taps stick out. I would have glued and puttied then sanded down the seams. Even then plastic surgery can be be difficult to make absolute seamless
Nice work all the same.
You've put your finger on the part of the rebuild that I felt was least successful. The cast-on door was difficult to paint properly, and even though I was very careful about masking, I did not achieve a smooth line. I agree that a more radical surgery could have resulted in a better model.
However, my main purpose here was to show how to replace truck-mounted couplers. I also wanted to demonstrate how to repaint a very garish model using a light-colored paint. Overall, the result was, at best, acceptable; but it was not stellar.
Perhaps for a future video, I'll try removing a cast-in door and replacing it with a sliding door...
Thanks for the comments.
You are welcome. I was worried my comment would be misconstrued.
I usually use super glue and baking soda for fills which works great and can be sanded. I've used this method on several models and they came out great. Cheers from eastern TN
@@w.rustylane5650 Great tip - I'll try that. I assume you just mix a paste to, say, toothpaste consistency? How much working time do you have?
Hi, I'm new to your channel and really enjoyed this video. Do you ever strip off the old paint before repainting?
First, thanks for watching. Yes, I do sometimes strip the old paint, but since I'm basically lazy (and since stripping paint is a pretty messy process) I avoid it when I can. See my video "Refurbishing an Inexpensive Passenger Car" for one example. In general, I strip the old paint ONLY if the paint job is just horrible, or if I am worried that it will take many coats of paint to cover the old paint job. In my video "Rebuilding an Inexpensive HO Scale Tank Car" you'll see an example of a time when I probably should have stripped the paint, but didn't. That car had slightly raised printing on a white body, and I didn't notice that the lettering was raised until I had repainted. The result: the old lettering showed as a ghost on the repainted car! I didn't stress over this: railroad cars are sold and repainted all the time, and I'm pretty sure the new owners didn't strip the old paint...
No no. Strip paint FIRST with brake fluid or alcohol, THEN repair roofwalk and running gear mods.
😪 'promo sm'