Відео

Boy, that's the truth. I don't know how much of a health hazard might be associated with occasional soldering projects, but if I were soldering for more than ten or fifteen minutes day, I would absolutely want some positive ventilation!

You're absolutely right - this isn't for everyone. However, there are a large number of modelers who enjoy that aspect of the hobby, and hopefully, this video will appeal to some of them. Thanks for watching!

I order my boards from JLCPCB (jlcpcb.com). These guys print custom PCBs at *very* reasonable prices - you'll pay just over $4 for five boards and just over $7 for ten boards, *including* shipping. (BUT be sure to select "Global Standard Direct Line" shipping, which will take a little over two weeks from the day you order until the day you receive (based on my experience). To order the boards, go to my GitHub page (github.com/RJW496/DRGW-HO) and download the file named *either* Three Aspect Signal Controller v1.0_.zip (to control a single three light signal using a three position switch) *or* Six Light Signal Controller v1.3_.zip (to control one or two signals using an Arduino Nano clone.) When you click on the file name, you will see an apparently blank page, but click on the "View Raw" link and you will be prompted to select a location to download the file. Once you have downloaded the file, go to JCLPCB (or any other custom PC board supplier) and click the "Order Now" link. You will be prompted to upload a Gerber file. Select the .zip file you just downloaded from GitHub. Select how many boards you want (you can order in increments of 5) and select add to cart. Then go through the checkout process as you would with any web site. *IMPORTANT* I am not compensated in any way by JCLPCB. I learned about them from Jimmy on his Digital & DIY channel. While you're waiting for your boards to arrive, you can order the rest of the components you'll need. Hope this helps!

Mike, thanks so much for the feedback. When I sort my videos by number of views, the signaling videos - and the associated Arduino programming videos - rank at nearly the bottom; so it's nice to know that *someone* is enjoying these!

If you have *any* difficulties or questions *at* *all* feel free to drop me an email. You can find my email address by going to my home page and clicking the "...more" link (it's underneath the word "in" in "HO Scale Rio Grande in the San Luis Valley") I'll help as much as I can.

Thanks. I speak slowly mainly to avoid tripping over my own tongue! (Try saying "single head signals" three times fast...)

Parchment paper (unlike parchment) is silicone-coated paper which is used for baking. Find it in the grocery store next to the aluminum foil and the waxed paper, or just ask your wife. Sorry for the confusion - I should have been more clear!

My go-to cement for assembling styrene parts is Plastruct Bondene. It's not quite as aggressive as Plastruct Plastic Weld, but it holds well and will even bond painted parts.

That's a great question - I skipped over the details because I have addressed this in several of my previous videos. In the case of these flat cars, the original horn-hook couplers were truck mounted (some call these "Talgo" trucks.) I stay way from truck mounted couplers because they can cause problems, especially on reverse curves (sudden switch from left-hand curve to right-hand curve). Therefore, I had to add coupler gear boxes (also called draft gear) to the underside of the flat cars. I use Kadee #242 gear boxes - at time stamp 6:00 I mention drilling the mounting holes for these gear boxes. If the car includes body-mounted couplers, you can almost always use the cast-on coupler pockets. I use Kadee #5 or #141 couplers. #5 couplers use the phosphor-bronze centering spring; #141 use the whisker style springs. The shanks of the #5 and #141 couplers are the same thickness, so without the extra thickness of the phosphor-bronze coupler centering spring, the #141 coupler might sag just a little bit, leaving the coupler too close to the rails. I ususally shim this up by inserting a phosphor-bronze spring (Kadee #634 with the side tabs cut away) - this prevents that sag. Some modelers use a piece of Scotch tape to make up the thickness. Once you've mounted the gearbox using a #2-52 screw, just put the coupler in the gearbox and snap on the cover. See this video where I detail the process: ua-cam.com/video/ck0Y-daCIP0/v-deo.html

This is an older model - not even Spectrum. Frankly, I have always been disappointed with the performance of this locomotive, so I recently replaced it with the Rapido GE 44T model with DCC+sound.

Well spotted! Actually, I think I wasn't careful enough when I sprayed the car - I noticed the paint was a little thin in one spot, and instead of building up the color with a few more quick passes, I just sprayed that one area, resulting in too much paint, which then crazed. Another lesson learned - and I'm glad I learned it on a $1 car and not on a $20 car!

Thanks! One of the great things about this platform is the international reach - I get messages like yours from all over. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the feedback! I am always interested in suggestions to improve my models.

N scale book shelves! You are a madman!

@@rwissbaum9849 Probably a true statement. Doing interior details though is always appreciated by a viewer and as I'm sure you know gives life to a town scene.

@@jackheninger5471 I agree completely. I've been arranging and rearranging the buildings in my version of downtown Creede, Colorado; and I realized that *every* *single* *building* has lights, and all but 3 (out of 12 total) have interiors. Adding interiors is a great way to get more bang for your modeling buck *and* to increase viewer engagement.

Thanks!

First, thinking back over the 60+ comments I've received on these three videos, I don't recall a single critical comment about the quality of the window printing (perhaps you have gotten those comments in your role as manufacturer). I certainly noticed as I was painting that the window frames and mullions are not as uniform as you see in cast styrene kits, but they were not difficult to paint and I think the results speak for themselves. That said, I applaud your efforts to improve your designs and your printing - the Japanese have a word for this: *kaizen* - the endless struggle to achieve perfection. I'll check out your web site for the new model!

I'm so glad I was able to inspire you to try this stuff yourself! Once you get into it, you'll find it's not that hard. Good luck!

You realize that, by admitting you enjoyed Hawaii, you've let everyone know just how old you are!

@@rwissbaum9849 What's wrong with being 81?

@@hirsutusi5536 It's *way* better than the alternative! And you're only 7 years ahead of me :)

I've considered getting a 3D printer, but I'm intimidated by (1) the economics (2) the learning curve, and (3) the odor associated with the printer stock. Let me know how it goes for you.

Thanks! I haven't forgotten that this project is still unfinished - I plan to complete it in the new year.

I can't take credit for the stairs - see the link to Boomer's video in the video description.

@@rwissbaum9849 Will do. is a color printer required for making interiors? Thx

@@nap871 Not strictly required, but incredibly useful. You've already seen how I add signs and posters to the walls, and also how I print wall and floor textures. The next (and final, I promise!) installment in this series will see me using the color printer again. Stay tuned. BTW, an all-in-one color printer can be had for $50 - less than some RTR freight cars! See this one: www.amazon.com/HP-DeskJet-2755e-Wireless-Printer/dp/B08XYP6BJV/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2XP3OVYKS09HB&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.PZOQR7euqQEm0HVSDrrkU23bF2LXdTBvxBiv6uICxV9YUKdAiN3qM18ny7YkJ3WseEH4B2ZVNj4wxOOnUN7T0nLYzPxiaL5fWUHnm2gs6zQdNIggRK4Ya4p0UTMtwE8AQU7NM5Xr9oFPe8rhC4g3FQsIQKGzs1RfcxfbGNT61wpFxvb-mFsxl2tMpXjAh5TtWHllVSBxiaoyu1aIyn0D_oKPPkfVTzdIuiECGhxS1tA.4kUK0ET7ts9i4Pj4sGNvY8kcskP-SCg3GAVavpKQ3KA&dib_tag=se&keywords=color%2Binkjet%2Bprinter%2Ball%2Bin%2Bone&qid=1732157615&sprefix=color%2Binkje%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-6&ufe=INHOUSE_INSTALLMENTS%3AUS_IHI_3M_HARDLINES_AUTOMATED&th=1

Actually, with the underlying gray primer showing through, once the first orange coat was complete, I thought the first coat didn't look bad at all. The washes still improved the appearance though.

That's high praise, coming from you! Thanks, Anthony.

Good to hear from a Denver native! I bought my *first* SLR from Waxman's - a used no-name camera; and I bought my *second* SLR from Waxman's - a brand-new Olympus OM-1. Was I happy to finally get through-the-lens metering!

@@rwissbaum9849 I started with a Nikon D50 SLR from there and ended with D70 DSLR. I miss those stores, Mike's Camera is just not the same.

Every once in a while, you'll see a shot of the bamboo cutting board I use as a work surface - it has a cutout that is perfectly sized for the plastruct cement bottles. Now, if I would just remember to use it faithfully... On a related topic, Motrak Models sells a nifty holder which fits both Vetero and Hunterline stain bottles.