(Dakota Digital Gauges and Custom Rick’s Gas Tank) LT4 swap in my Grandfather’s El Camino Part 9
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- In this video I install Dakota Digital Gauges and show my custom fuel tank that came in made by Rick’s Tanks.
#lt4swap #elcamino #crate #dakotadigital #chevy #lt4 #lsswap
Grandpa smiling Down right now
These are awesome videos! Keep up the good wirk
Can't wait to see it finished up. I'm building an 87 Monte SS with an LT4 and a Bowler 6 speed automatic and a Roadster Shop Fast track chassis on bags.
Great work bro
Thanks!!
Thanks again for all the info …
Loving the process
You should used the under the frame Rick’s tank it fits in the stock location
When I spoke to Rick it would have been more expensive to have a custom tank made to fit in the stock location.
like I mentioned in the video I would have had to taken exact measurements.
I didn’t want to risk me being dumb, measuring incorrectly and then have a custom tank that didn’t fit in the stock location.
Not to mention the serviceability of having the tank in the bed, I already had an o-ring go bad on a fitting that started leaking. If the tank was mounted in the stock location I would have had to drop the tank just to get to that fitting.
I personally like having it back there. People always ask what it is and that gives me an opportunity to talk about the car… and I love talking about this car lol
A wide range of aftermarket pumps work fine with pulse width modulation. I run a Walbro 525 pump with the LT4 fuel pump pressure module and the Chevy performance controller and it works fine with E85. I had a Walbro 450 before I converted to flex fuel.
One option is to install a surge tank in the engine compartment to house the main high pressure pump. That way, you can keep the stock tank (if it had EFI) without modification. The stock tank pump fills the surge tank and returns to the stock tank. The pump in the surge tank dead ends at the engine. If it was a carbureted car, then you would have to convert the bucket to an EFI bucket to hold the in-tank pump. Of course, you would want to consider a higher volume pump in the main tank to feed a thirsty LT4.
One really just cannot believe the cost of this type of project until you do it...
Thanks for the information. That’s good to know and I wish I knew that sooner I might have gone a different route.
I’m definitely no expert and this has been a huge learning curve for me.
I agree. I had no clue what I was getting myself into when I started this project.
I thought once I had the big items like the motor and transmission it would be easy. But I was completely wrong, I way underestimated how much this swap would cost and things started adding up quick. I’ve spent all my savings and every pay check goes to this car. All my friends and family think I’m insane when I tell them how much I’ve spent so far but I’m in to deep to stop now.
@@lt4camino I did the swap back in 2018 when there were virtually no available parts. It is much better now, believe it or not. What is hard to anticipate is what all the little parts like fittings will cost. Buying all the quick disconnects, for example, is a small fortune. I have the dry sump version which comes with a host of other issues such as crankcase ventilation.
You might consider whether vintage air makes an AC/heater option for that car. I have one in my K10 truck and it places everything on the inside, so you get to keep the room in the engine bay.
The CAN interface is definitely the way to go with Dakota Digital. Also, the LT4 controller needs a 128k speed sensor, which should already be in the transmission. If you go with the Dakota Digital cruise control module, it gets the speed from the ECU and makes installing cruise a breeze.
VaporWorx makes plumbing for the fuel pressure sensor you will need to install.
If/when you get to AC, there is some controversy as to whether the E92 ECU can be configured to run a cooling fan. The easiest way is to use the relay controls for the fans (if you had the Chevy Performance controller) in conjunction with a trinary switch on the AC. Another strategy I am considering myself is to install an AC pressure sensor and a brushless fan and control the fan using the ECU. However, this is a problem for your future self.
You might take some care in the angle of the transmission with respect to the rear pinion. If the angles are not right, you might find yourself chasing vibrations in the driveline. It is easier to move the cross member up or down now rather than later. Of course you can modify the pinion angle too.
When you get to the electrics, check out Waytek, Wirecare, and Prowire if you want to go crazy.
I’m complaining now with how difficult it was to research and find parts for my LT4 so I can only imagine what it would have been like for you back in 2018 especially for the dry sump version.
That’s funny you mentioned it I actually just recently learned about the potential issue with the AC pressure switch and the cool fan earlier this week.
That’s definitely something I will have to figure out.
I was wondering about what the correct angle should be for the drive shaft.
We just eyeballed it when we made the crossmember so we may have to adjust.
I guess we won’t know for sure until we drive it and see if there is any vibration.
Thanks again for sharing you’re knowledge. This is all valuable information to know I really appreciate it.
Hi
I have fitted an LT4 in to a Holden Crewman with 10L90 here in Australia did the Bim module read all the data from the OBD 11
Thanks if you can help
Hello,
Nice! Yes, the BIM module for the Dakota Digital gauges plugs into the OBD-II port and it reads the data… speedometer, rpm, water temp, oil pressure, mileage, check engine light etc. I followed the directions from Dakota Digital and had no issues at all, I also went with Speartec for the engine harness.
That tank ruined the car