I have to do that I to my wife's e91, I just need to get one more hose.. I will be placing both of the hoses, the reservoir and put pressed worm clamps on the hoses. I do not care for the oem clamps, they are great for quick installation but they are throw away and non-adjusting so they always end up leaking down the line. When I did it last time, I took the old return line and dropped it to the bottom of the car and put it in my oil drain pan. Change out the reservoir and other hose. Leave the plug in the reservoir for the return line so the fluid does not come out. Jack the front end up, fill the reservoir with fluid. Manually, turn the rack back and forth to move all the old fluid through the rack and to the oil drain pan. Check and refill the reservoir. You can even start the car and run it for just a few seconds at a time, just make sure you have fluid going through the pump (reservoir being full when you start). When done flushing all the old fluid, install the return hose - connect the bottom first and then the top. Make sure the reservoir is low so when you pull the plug you can tilt and connect the hose without spilling fluid.
yeah the lines are expensive! Everything on the e90 is twice the cost (or more) as the e46/e39 which sucks. Hopefully the OEM clamps hold up. If not I'll replace with the other style.
MrCuckoobox do the brackets come with the oem reservoir? If not, can you guys point me to a product page for the new ones I will need? I need to do this to mine, but want to make sure I have all the parts before taking on this DIY.
I'm surprised at the small amount of people that actually drain the fluid properly via a drain bolt. This method only dilutes the PS fluid. Otherwise good vid.
@@dflex4180 Yeah no, already that he is mixing fluid which is not a good thing, he is keeping the old incorrect fluid in place instead of just doing the whole job properly? It's easy to flush the system, just take the reservoir return line and route it or add a line so it reaches your drain pan, then plug the reservoir, fill it, and turn the rack until clean green fluid comes out.
I did a power steering flush on my 2006 325i (160k miles) due to a whining noise, the drained fluid was brown. Once the flush was complete, the whine reduced. But later on, it came back. Looked at the fluid and started getting light brown. Decided I will change the reservoir due to the internal filter plus it maybe the original from day 1 😯 , Hope it works. If not, replacing the the pump itself and from there,if not resolved, maybe rack and pinion 🤦🏻♂️
Rabbit Taco the whine has gotten better with the reservoir flushes . I basically kept flushing as I drove to eliminate the brown contamination of the fluid until it was green. Check my video out of the reservoir replacement to hear the difference ua-cam.com/video/leoOuFRDjMs/v-deo.html
8:40 to 9:00 is how you pour a bottle of liquid, actually that clean fluid will mix with what was left in the system so it's better but not a true fluid flush, it is possible to flush from the top side, add new to old and keep emptying and add new until fluid is clear green, you must turn car on and rotate wheel to activate pump, cost more on fluid tho
Ignacio Romero yeah I recommend doing this flush several times until the fluid stays clean. Especially if someone put in the incorrect fluid like with this car.
This is the real American MAN< well Done,, I have just question hope you can help, I have X5 E53 2005 Engine M54 ,so strange car ,Perfect turning on morning, but as you dive for couple hours and you parked it and after half an hour you back to turn it on you find hesitating engine and not cranking as quick as when cold, starting but you feel it not ful start not strong ,what you think?
I just changed CCV system it was in the car since 2005 ,I know it sound crazy how it was that long never changed but that's how Irish owner here in Ireland driving cars, never open the HOOD ,today I parked it for couple hours and came to turn on and it was showing battery red sign while engine staling and sounding as its dying ,I checked on dash my Alternator voltage it was not more than 11 while the red sign battery on with dying engine sound so now I don't know is it battery problem or Charging Regulator in Alternator problem ,,but why in morning car starting perfect , @@BIMMERZEITT
MAHMOUD ZAEN haha Mahmoud I’m from Ireland brother. No offense taken though - you’re probably right 😂. How old is the battery? I would definitely start with the battery/alternator.
I swear I had sense that you Irish because you look copy of friend of mine , my battery just 3 years but I opened Charging Regulator in my Valeo Alternator and the brushes was about 60% with deep curve so I said wow that's need to change but im really wondering its driving me crazy this question (WHY CAR IN MORNING STARTING PERFECT ?) does even charging regulator not good when car warm but perfect when start morning ?I think if bad regulator or battery so it should be bad any time ,not only when engine warm ? its something relating to Some Sensor ,, I think my Oxygen Sensor or Crank Shaft sensor .what do you think ? @@BIMMERZEITT
Mohammad Saud I think you might be able to, yes. There is a special tool to remove and install these, a real pain in the butt. Just replace with universal hose clamps if necessary!
I got the hose and clamps off. Brought new OEM clamps. But, the lower hose clamp is loose. Like I can move it around with my hand. While the top hose clamp is tight. Was your lower hose clamps tight or loose? If not, how’d you get it to tighten? It’s clipped in
Ivan Mendoza they all share a single drive belt, the whining under the hood could be a failing alternator. The alternator failed on this car not long after this video. You can hear it whine a bit in the video. If you mean whining from inside the car maybe the airbag clockspring.
Why you have CHF11S labeled cap bur you have red fluid? Plus you just drained half of your dirty red fluid and added fresh green fluid and mixed Two separate spec of fluids
Exactly!! The previous owner appears to have put ATF into it... so that's why it was making noise! I should also note: this reservoir had the green CHF11S sticker on it, I removed it as it was falling off which is common.
@@BIMMERZEITT But was it the reservoir or fluid that produced the most noticeable effect? My PS also "whine" and i'm about to change the reservoir... But as for the fluid - BMW recommended both CHF and ATF (as written in TIS, probably depending on climate) so i'm still not sure if i should replace my fresh ATF with CHF since a lot of places say not to mix them..
Alexander T well my two e90’s both had a green CHF sticker on reservoir cap. They commonly fall off though over time so if yours is missing it’s going to be hard to tell what it had from the factory.
@@BIMMERZEITT I just replaced my resrvoir - no change in whine for now so the next step is changing ATF to CHF i guess. One thing i noticed though is that in an old reservoir the fluid surface would stay calm while in new one there's a kind of "wave" forming so definitely a difference in flow! Maybe if i drive arround it will help with whine since previously system couldn't bleed itself of air due to restricted flow? Will see. Thanks for the video - it did help to understand the process better. The only thing i would add is if you remove those clamps carefully you can reuse them.
My local BMW dealer quoted $300 for this service! Get it done yourself for around $45: amzn.to/2KuERLz
I have to do that I to my wife's e91, I just need to get one more hose.. I will be placing both of the hoses, the reservoir and put pressed worm clamps on the hoses. I do not care for the oem clamps, they are great for quick installation but they are throw away and non-adjusting so they always end up leaking down the line. When I did it last time, I took the old return line and dropped it to the bottom of the car and put it in my oil drain pan. Change out the reservoir and other hose. Leave the plug in the reservoir for the return line so the fluid does not come out. Jack the front end up, fill the reservoir with fluid. Manually, turn the rack back and forth to move all the old fluid through the rack and to the oil drain pan. Check and refill the reservoir. You can even start the car and run it for just a few seconds at a time, just make sure you have fluid going through the pump (reservoir being full when you start). When done flushing all the old fluid, install the return hose - connect the bottom first and then the top. Make sure the reservoir is low so when you pull the plug you can tilt and connect the hose without spilling fluid.
yeah the lines are expensive! Everything on the e90 is twice the cost (or more) as the e46/e39 which sucks. Hopefully the OEM clamps hold up. If not I'll replace with the other style.
@@BIMMERZEITT Oh yesss, you can say that again.......$30/qt for the CHF11s......vs $5/qt for Castrol or Valvoline.
MrCuckoobox do the brackets come with the oem reservoir? If not, can you guys point me to a product page for the new ones I will need? I need to do this to mine, but want to make sure I have all the parts before taking on this DIY.
@@ramirezsax No you can reuse the old ones no need to buy new ones
I gave up on my e92 coupe and bought a new m240 xdrive. Best decision I've made all year.
Oooo that sounds glorious
Really like the simple details without technical jargon. Thank you
Hell yeah thanks for the awesome video! I too am a diy BMW enthusiast. Save us all money and gain knowledge. Subscribed and liked
OnlyBigHits thanks bro!!
aren't you supposed to drain the rest of the fluid from the steering rack
Excellent video and not to long
Really well done. Thank you.
I'm surprised at the small amount of people that actually drain the fluid properly via a drain bolt. This method only dilutes the PS fluid. Otherwise good vid.
It’s a huge pain and makes a mess, that’s why. You can do this process a few times and eventually get a nice clean fluid mix.
Even then, it's not really a proper flush IMO. Flushing the fluid out of the return hose until fresh colored fluid is the best way.
Wait so you mixed ATF awith CHF-11s??? There is still plenty through the rack and lines and cooler of the old ATF.
the old fluid will work it self out
@@dflex4180 Yeah no, already that he is mixing fluid which is not a good thing, he is keeping the old incorrect fluid in place instead of just doing the whole job properly? It's easy to flush the system, just take the reservoir return line and route it or add a line so it reaches your drain pan, then plug the reservoir, fill it, and turn the rack until clean green fluid comes out.
ATF vs CHF not compatible
@@JackRR15 I turned the rack and nothing drained. Then started the car and still nothing drained. So pissed. What did I do wrong?
2 years old and still valid mines starting to leak.
I did a power steering flush on my 2006 325i (160k miles) due to a whining noise, the drained fluid was brown. Once the flush was complete, the whine reduced. But later on, it came back. Looked at the fluid and started getting light brown. Decided I will change the reservoir due to the internal filter plus it maybe the original from day 1 😯 , Hope it works. If not, replacing the the pump itself and from there,if not resolved, maybe rack and pinion 🤦🏻♂️
Did that fix your problem ?
Rabbit Taco the whine has gotten better with the reservoir flushes . I basically kept flushing as I drove to eliminate the brown contamination of the fluid until it was green. Check my video out of the reservoir replacement to hear the difference ua-cam.com/video/leoOuFRDjMs/v-deo.html
Was the system flush ok to do? In this video he just kept diluting the old oil with new 🤔
So this is what a non pos 325i looks like
do you have a video how to flush and change power steering oil?
this is literally the video lmao
@@breakitfixhe flushed the reservoir, only not the power steering pump, which contains lots of the old fluid
@@e90gabe keep draining and filling and eventually you get all the old fluid out lol
N43?
So the sound is the reservoir no the pump?
8:40 to 9:00 is how you pour a bottle of liquid, actually that clean fluid will mix with what was left in the system so it's better but not a true fluid flush, it is possible to flush from the top side, add new to old and keep emptying and add new until fluid is clear green, you must turn car on and rotate wheel to activate pump, cost more on fluid tho
Ignacio Romero yeah I recommend doing this flush several times until the fluid stays clean. Especially if someone put in the incorrect fluid like with this car.
This is the real American MAN< well Done,, I have just question hope you can help, I have X5 E53 2005 Engine M54 ,so strange car ,Perfect turning on morning, but as you dive for couple hours and you parked it and after half an hour you back to turn it on you find hesitating engine and not cranking as quick as when cold, starting but you feel it not ful start not strong ,what you think?
Hard to say, it could be so many things. Is it overdue for any maintenance? How old are the camshaft position sensors?
I just changed CCV system it was in the car since 2005 ,I know it sound crazy how it was that long never changed but that's how Irish owner here in Ireland driving cars, never open the HOOD ,today I parked it for couple hours and came to turn on and it was showing battery red sign while engine staling and sounding as its dying ,I checked on dash my Alternator voltage it was not more than 11 while the red sign battery on with dying engine sound so now I don't know is it battery problem or Charging Regulator in Alternator problem ,,but why in morning car starting perfect , @@BIMMERZEITT
MAHMOUD ZAEN haha Mahmoud I’m from Ireland brother. No offense taken though - you’re probably right 😂. How old is the battery? I would definitely start with the battery/alternator.
I swear I had sense that you Irish because you look copy of friend of mine , my battery just 3 years but I opened Charging Regulator in my Valeo Alternator and the brushes was about 60% with deep curve so I said wow that's need to change but im really wondering its driving me crazy this question (WHY CAR IN MORNING STARTING PERFECT ?) does even charging regulator not good when car warm but perfect when start morning ?I think if bad regulator or battery so it should be bad any time ,not only when engine warm ? its something relating to Some Sensor ,, I think my Oxygen Sensor or Crank Shaft sensor .what do you think ? @@BIMMERZEITT
Check your grounding cables, those can cause slow crank
Thank you for the video. Why wear a $500 watch when working on a car? I'm curious.
I think it was significantly less than that. For whatever reason I forgot to take it off for this video.
To tell the time
bruh you're the man watching you pour that fluid gave me anxiety
Can you reuse the hose clamps?
Mohammad Saud I think you might be able to, yes. There is a special tool to remove and install these, a real pain in the butt. Just replace with universal hose clamps if necessary!
I got the hose and clamps off. Brought new OEM clamps. But, the lower hose clamp is loose. Like I can move it around with my hand. While the top hose clamp is tight. Was your lower hose clamps tight or loose? If not, how’d you get it to tighten? It’s clipped in
I don’t get it, mine says ATF oil only on it
Did you have to bleed the system? No air bubbles ?
no need
Thank you Bimmer Zeit
My steering wheels whines and kind of a loud vibration any guess to what it could be?? Pump? Rack n pinions?
Ivan Mendoza could be that or the alternator
@@BIMMERZEITT alternator?? How does that have to do with steering?
Ivan Mendoza they all share a single drive belt, the whining under the hood could be a failing alternator. The alternator failed on this car not long after this video. You can hear it whine a bit in the video. If you mean whining from inside the car maybe the airbag clockspring.
@@BIMMERZEITT my steering is a littke stiff ithink it may be pump should i change pump or reservoir?
@@ivanmendoza829 reservoir first
So you only left about 60% of the nasty power steering fluid in the system by not draining the hoses, cooler and rack.
Why you have CHF11S labeled cap bur you have red fluid? Plus you just drained half of your dirty red fluid and added fresh green fluid and mixed Two separate spec of fluids
The previous owner put the wrong spec fluid in. I did this drain/fill several times until the fluid was clean and green! 😎
Not a proper drain is it. Got to go underneath & drain the system properly at the rack.
How do you remove the old factory clamps ?
If I recall there is a special tool for it. I cut them off with a snips.
how fluid do you need
Oh Sh!+, that is over due or dirty or some one put ATF instead of CH11. It should be green.
Exactly!! The previous owner appears to have put ATF into it... so that's why it was making noise! I should also note: this reservoir had the green CHF11S sticker on it, I removed it as it was falling off which is common.
@@BIMMERZEITT The newer cars (2009+, maybe sooner) used ATF.
never mind, guess is something h11,great, what quantity
think they auto bleed but I would have put it on high idle (2k rpm) and then left to right it, and flush again
what time of fluid and amount
So did it quiet down after reservoir and fluid replacement?
Alexander T yes it did, I did a drain and fill 3-4 more times to get all the old fluid out
@@BIMMERZEITT But was it the reservoir or fluid that produced the most noticeable effect? My PS also "whine" and i'm about to change the reservoir... But as for the fluid - BMW recommended both CHF and ATF (as written in TIS, probably depending on climate) so i'm still not sure if i should replace my fresh ATF with CHF since a lot of places say not to mix them..
Alexander T well my two e90’s both had a green CHF sticker on reservoir cap. They commonly fall off though over time so if yours is missing it’s going to be hard to tell what it had from the factory.
@@BIMMERZEITT I just replaced my resrvoir - no change in whine for now so the next step is changing ATF to CHF i guess. One thing i noticed though is that in an old reservoir the fluid surface would stay calm while in new one there's a kind of "wave" forming so definitely a difference in flow! Maybe if i drive arround it will help with whine since previously system couldn't bleed itself of air due to restricted flow? Will see. Thanks for the video - it did help to understand the process better. The only thing i would add is if you remove those clamps carefully you can reuse them.
maybe show how to fucking tighten the clamps
Dude..... the fluid u eXTracted was RED...... initially...... are you SURE , YOUR car takes the Green CHF 11S , and not red ATF fluid?
Dude…. Did you ever consider…. The previous owner… put the wrong fluid into this car?
😎🇩🇪🚙👍
For half the time of doing the work you're quiet I understand these requires attention to detail but yet
You just replace the 1/5th of the fluid, rest of them still in the system... stop sharing stupid stuff... this is not a proper fluid flush...