Something I came up with… melt equal parts bees wax with olive oil, put into containers and let harden. It’ll melt with a little friction and coats blades and leather beautifully
I made my own kepheart knife to reshaped Ontario knife filed a finger groove and shorten the blade. Looks really awesome. Can't afford a $100 dollar knife so I thought I'd make my own knife to beat up out doors. Now that I made a cool knife I'm going to make a cook sheath to match everything else I got going on. Belt and another holster I have
I'm making a knife sheath for the first time. I didn't stitch it yet, I was thinking I would wrap my knife in plastic wrap and wet my leather and leather let it soke then let it dry
This is a decent video on the process, and I appreciate your not rambling with some long intro before getting to the content. However a couple points/corrections... Re: olive oil, I do _not_ recommend that at all except as an emergency measure. There's very good reasons not to use it on knives. Olive, like most vegetable/cooking oils, will go rancid after a while. Twice as fast if you live somewhere hot. It won't hurt the blade,* but it will start to stink eventually and if you use the knife for food prep you can contaminate your food too (it's not likely to make you sick at that small an amount, but it may affect the taste). It's not just that though, cooking oils like olive are terrible for leather long term: When the oil becomes rancid it attracts mold and fungus which rots the leather. It also tends to attract insects and mites that feed on the oil and leather itself. Not good. If you're in a very humid/marine environment using carbon steel and have nothing else, then sure use olive oil or vegetable oil or whatever you have to hand as a field expedient measure. But as soon as you're able I'd be sure to thoroughly clean your knife and sheath, and re-oil with conventional stuff. *Virtually any petroleum based or synthetic oil is equivalent or better in actual performance to olive or other cooking oils and won't have any issues of going rancid or rotting your leather.* I like to use M-Pro 7 gun oil as an all-purpose lubricant/protectant on my knives, especially fixed blades. On my folders, especially the high end ones I recommend Tuf Glide (dry lubricant) since it works well, and being dry doesn't attract dust, dirt and lint to gum up the knife like regular oils do. For waterproofing leather there's any number of synthetic and specialized products out there. I can't comment on most of those really. Personally I've had the best experience over many years using traditional mink oil on my leather -- boots, shoes, sheaths, slings, you name it; any leather I intend for outdoor use that may get wet. It not only waterproofs but acts as a conditioner and preservative keeping the leather soft and supple, and inhibiting fungus and mold growth. That's particularly important when you do warm water forming because the forming process actually causes the leather to become brittle (the hotter the water used, the harder and more brittle and leather will become -- you can literally make tough, very hard armor if you heat the water to boiling). Anyway mink oil can be expensive depending on your area, but it's worth it. *Olive oil won't hurt the steel, but it can seep into some porous handle materials like cord wraps, leather, wood. Once it goes rancid there the handle will reek and become slimy and likely mold infested. Leather and wood handles will become moldy or fungus infested and rot just like a leather sheath. That usually means your wrap or other porous grip will have to be trashed because it's extremely difficult to clean without ruining the material even further once it goes bad with old oil, mold, etc. Use conventional oils only!
@@jarodmorris4408 I've seen it start to smell bad (ie; go rancid) and degrade leather with mold as quickly as 4 months in hot, humid climates. In cold, dry climates _and_ when otherwise constantly cleaned and re-oiled it can take around 2 years to start having negative effects. That's what I've personally witnessed, in South America and Northern Canada respectively. Again the oil itself won't hurt the steel, but even ignoring all the other negatives and issues with other materials, *olive and other cooking oils are vastly inferior to proper, purpose-designed petroleum-based and synthetic oils for both lubrication and protection of metal.* Period. And for leather you should be using something like saddle soap or mink oil depending on leather type, intended use and environment. They are _massively_ superior to olive oil at keeping leather protected and pliable, and don't go rancid nor attract vermin. That is fact, not opinion, and backed by hundreds of years of both science and real-world experience. *There's a reason literally nobody uses olive oil on their guns, knives, tools, engines, leather goods or anything else except as a very short term emergency expedient... and most people would hesitate to do even that. Not the army, not the government, not any company out there, and not any hunter or soldier or mechanic or whatever other profession if given the choice.* I mean if you want to try it, knock yourself out and use all the cooking oils you wish on your gear. But I'll point out bad, potentially damaging advice when I see it.
Thank you bro for this ! I've been hesitant about getting a knife with a leather sheath . I've never formed one before .
Something I came up with… melt equal parts bees wax with olive oil, put into containers and let harden. It’ll melt with a little friction and coats blades and leather beautifully
thanks for this video Sir, i was on the fence about totally soaking the sheath but you fixed that. Outstanding !
Great video!
Awesome video !! God Bless you and your closing remarks…
Awesome Brother. I just got me some new leather sheaths for a couple of Fallkniven so will try this out. Cheers Dave 🇺🇸 🇳🇿
I made my own kepheart knife to reshaped Ontario knife filed a finger groove and shorten the blade. Looks really awesome. Can't afford a $100 dollar knife so I thought I'd make my own knife to beat up out doors. Now that I made a cool knife I'm going to make a cook sheath to match everything else I got going on. Belt and another holster I have
Great video and explanation of the process! Will be trying this soon.
Good video. GOD bless. From Glenn CATT in Massachusetts.
Hey thank you !
I just use a wet sponge with warm water make the knife wet and nice and then form it. You technique has better resoults thanks for sharing
Great vid
nice explanation, thank you!
Great Info. I need To Do This To One Of My Favorite sheaths. Ive Had it a long time and its starting to loose its retention.
Thank you.
Great video do you recommend sno sealed or bees wax or another water proof after you have wet formed sheath? God bless.
benchmade bushcrafter, un des meilleurs!!!
Hello Sir,
İ soaked my sheath in oil. Does your beautiful wet forming technique still applicable to them?
Love the ending
Maybe I'll do a practice with some carbon metal on leather wrapped in plastic wrap then I'll see if it leaks through?
I'm making a knife sheath for the first time. I didn't stitch it yet, I was thinking I would wrap my knife in plastic wrap and wet my leather and leather let it soke then let it dry
This is a decent video on the process, and I appreciate your not rambling with some long intro before getting to the content. However a couple points/corrections... Re: olive oil, I do _not_ recommend that at all except as an emergency measure. There's very good reasons not to use it on knives. Olive, like most vegetable/cooking oils, will go rancid after a while. Twice as fast if you live somewhere hot. It won't hurt the blade,* but it will start to stink eventually and if you use the knife for food prep you can contaminate your food too (it's not likely to make you sick at that small an amount, but it may affect the taste). It's not just that though, cooking oils like olive are terrible for leather long term: When the oil becomes rancid it attracts mold and fungus which rots the leather. It also tends to attract insects and mites that feed on the oil and leather itself. Not good. If you're in a very humid/marine environment using carbon steel and have nothing else, then sure use olive oil or vegetable oil or whatever you have to hand as a field expedient measure. But as soon as you're able I'd be sure to thoroughly clean your knife and sheath, and re-oil with conventional stuff. *Virtually any petroleum based or synthetic oil is equivalent or better in actual performance to olive or other cooking oils and won't have any issues of going rancid or rotting your leather.* I like to use M-Pro 7 gun oil as an all-purpose lubricant/protectant on my knives, especially fixed blades. On my folders, especially the high end ones I recommend Tuf Glide (dry lubricant) since it works well, and being dry doesn't attract dust, dirt and lint to gum up the knife like regular oils do.
For waterproofing leather there's any number of synthetic and specialized products out there. I can't comment on most of those really. Personally I've had the best experience over many years using traditional mink oil on my leather -- boots, shoes, sheaths, slings, you name it; any leather I intend for outdoor use that may get wet. It not only waterproofs but acts as a conditioner and preservative keeping the leather soft and supple, and inhibiting fungus and mold growth. That's particularly important when you do warm water forming because the forming process actually causes the leather to become brittle (the hotter the water used, the harder and more brittle and leather will become -- you can literally make tough, very hard armor if you heat the water to boiling). Anyway mink oil can be expensive depending on your area, but it's worth it.
*Olive oil won't hurt the steel, but it can seep into some porous handle materials like cord wraps, leather, wood. Once it goes rancid there the handle will reek and become slimy and likely mold infested. Leather and wood handles will become moldy or fungus infested and rot just like a leather sheath. That usually means your wrap or other porous grip will have to be trashed because it's extremely difficult to clean without ruining the material even further once it goes bad with old oil, mold, etc. Use conventional oils only!
He says he has been using extra virgin olive oil for years. When should he expect it to go rancid or attract mold, fungus, and rodents?
@@jarodmorris4408 I've seen it start to smell bad (ie; go rancid) and degrade leather with mold as quickly as 4 months in hot, humid climates. In cold, dry climates _and_ when otherwise constantly cleaned and re-oiled it can take around 2 years to start having negative effects. That's what I've personally witnessed, in South America and Northern Canada respectively. Again the oil itself won't hurt the steel, but even ignoring all the other negatives and issues with other materials, *olive and other cooking oils are vastly inferior to proper, purpose-designed petroleum-based and synthetic oils for both lubrication and protection of metal.* Period. And for leather you should be using something like saddle soap or mink oil depending on leather type, intended use and environment. They are _massively_ superior to olive oil at keeping leather protected and pliable, and don't go rancid nor attract vermin.
That is fact, not opinion, and backed by hundreds of years of both science and real-world experience. *There's a reason literally nobody uses olive oil on their guns, knives, tools, engines, leather goods or anything else except as a very short term emergency expedient... and most people would hesitate to do even that. Not the army, not the government, not any company out there, and not any hunter or soldier or mechanic or whatever other profession if given the choice.*
I mean if you want to try it, knock yourself out and use all the cooking oils you wish on your gear. But I'll point out bad, potentially damaging advice when I see it.
Name of the “4” similar to the Genesis. Thank you
Will it work in a container
Yes! It would work great!
Absolute obsession on UA-cam with knife sheaf no flappy thing and too tight and you have to pull it out And it's half stuck