Check that DAVCO Fuel filter Check valve P/N DVC/103071 should be on the FEED line from the TANK, chances are its got crud in it leaking fuel back into the tank.
Westin's Pete has a N-14 Cummings . This is a C-15 Caterpillar . I'd check gasket/ O- ring on that worthless "Davco" Fuel filter. 'Raicor" is a MUCH better filter .
Just double check and make sure all your fuel lines are tight especially the ones on top of the transmission. If you didn't have an issue before the trans swap then go back to the scene of the crime as the old guys always say. Good luck
Your Davco filter is supposed to be "dry". The higher the fuel gets into the bowl the dirter your filter is. You replace the filter once fuel gets closer to the top.
I know that davco filter isn’t that old, I think you replaced it when you replaced the fuel tanks if I remember right, pull that filter back off and make sure the oring didn’t get pinched, they can still draw air without leaving a puddle of fuel underneath
Before blaming fuel filter, check all the vents from the tanks as they cool off then it has to get more air in the tank some way so it syphons itself to get air.
Here’s an experienced news flash. I stopped the video where he showed the u-joint boxes and the seals in the bags, no part numbers for y’all to see. Rear pinion seal, and front input, 127591. Thru shaft seal 127592. When those seals are installed with a worn yoke that has a speedi-sleeve installed, the seals will be burned out in less than a week on a truck that works every day. Not if, it is WHEN. If you want to gamble on it, 99300 is a part number for wear sleeve. DS404 or DSP40 generation rearends, I sell them too.
Been watching your channel for a while now and realized why your area looked somewhat familiar. My grandpa who passed away 4 years ago used to live in Bowling Green Kentucky!!!
hey greg while you got the shaft out why not replace the other seal on the rear end . also the fuel issue could be a bad check valve in the line that is dumping it back into the tank
Looks like a davco filter unit, same as my freightliner basically. There should be a check ball in the inlet line. The ball will get larger crap for the tanks and stop sealing thus losing prime or just a long cranking start.
3 options: 1. check ball in fuel separator-also check after trans swap, may have created air entry. 2. Replace with Cat 256-8753 filter and 280-2698 base (flows more fuel). 3. Replace with FASS.
Without looking a book, 1710 series full round, 6.094” at flats that the plates seat against, 1.938 cap diameter, 5-280x part number. Yoke splines size for thru shaft and rear pinion, 2.024-39 involuted spline with a different spline shape and thru length than a Meritor of samespline count and diameter.
Woah there Greg!!! SAFETY FIRST. Should not be hitting hammer face to hammer face like that as it could chip due to the hardness and trust me it flies off there like a bullet! I was hitting a splitting maul once which is meant to be hit and a piece still chipped off it and travelled through a muscle at the inside of my knee and out the back like an 1 deep and 1 1/2" long. Hurt like hell for days.
We had an air in fuel problem on a c15 and after trial and error for several months it turned out to have been a hole in the vacuum line for the fuel pressure gauge. So keep an eye out for something crazy like that.
On your starting issue. Get rid of the RACOR, problem waiting to happen. Get a spin-on Primary. Replace the return Check valve, most likely not the cause but the cheapest fix. Most likely cause on your drain-back is the primer pump. There is a check in there that allows the fuel to drain out of the rail when bad. Symptoms will lean towards injector O-rings, could be. Start here first, way cheaper.
On the u-joint install like this, always put some grease in the u-joint caps for a starter. The bearings in a Spicer u-joint won’t fall down because the cap needles are taper ground at each end for the groove in the cap and shape of cap seal to trap them. Also use antiseize on the outside of the cap. Then after full installation on this application, completely fill the u-joint with grease thru the grease zerks, that both go to a common lube gallery. If I had a nickel for all of those that I have sold across the counter or installed in the shop.......
That yoke seal surface is junk. A wear sleeve will also cause having to pull it down again when using 127592 seal, don’t use 99300 or any variant. Been there by other folks mistakes.
Definitely get a new nut for that yoke, I had one rust and have a hairline Crack in it and it lossend enough to vibrate and ended up ruining the yoke, seal and u joint
Should have used anti- seize on the bores and u-joint cups. . too much corrosives on the roads,cheap insurance for when you hit this problem in the middle of nowhere
Hey Greg! What is your plan with the Pete? Is this going to be your job as a truck driver or are you going to use it as your toy hauler to the races? Either way, its a bad ass truck!! Good work on the vids. Keep em comin!
I would get some of those old 70s trucker tapes ....play them in their....get rid of the gym shoes and you gotta wear cowboy boots a cowboy button up shirt with a big belt buckle....with gold nugget rings and chain wallet..oh don't forget a big cb raidio..10 4.....then drive to a truck stop and get you a big cup of coffee with a dounut.....👀
Hey guys I have the perfect fix for your fuel bowl issue!.... get rid of it completely and put a FASS 250 for class 8 trucks on it.... ya gotta be running some lift pump on that dodge... same concept!!!... I know I run a fass 150 on my Duramax LML... and would like to know about the fass 250 lift pumps on class 8 trucks... the thought has passed through my mind to put one on my Kenworth....
Many things that can cause engine to loose prime. In most cases never line fuel line but loose fitting, fuel tank (stand pipe is welded and it breaks at the top aka top draw tanks), filter housing. Cannot just guess and throw parts at it , hope you find it but you must find the leak. I do chase after air leaks in fuel systems, seen many throw ton of money and never find it. But turns out its simple oring that is problem. Then owner flips out can't be that I spent all this money putting parts on it from GUESSING.
Bro all you had to do was turn the power divider on and the truck would have moved perfectly fine. Power divider is used in snow mug or when the wheel is being spin out. Power divider is not meant to use in speed over 65 mph.
You put lift pumps on all your vehicles the transport is no different this is your chance to upgrade we all know you’re going to eventually want to make some power with the thing
Check that DAVCO Fuel filter Check valve P/N DVC/103071 should be on the FEED line from the TANK, chances are its got crud in it leaking fuel back into the tank.
Shit I just commented that! 😂 Sorry I didn't see your post when I was typing mine.
Westin Champlain has this issue on his blue Pete rebuild. It was a check valve that went bad.
Westin's Pete has a N-14 Cummings . This is a C-15 Caterpillar .
I'd check gasket/ O- ring on that worthless "Davco" Fuel filter. 'Raicor" is a MUCH better filter .
@@stormyweather9054 I have had that issue before with a C-15 and yes it was the check valve built into the priming pump on the side of the engine.
Just double check and make sure all your fuel lines are tight especially the ones on top of the transmission. If you didn't have an issue before the trans swap then go back to the scene of the crime as the old guys always say. Good luck
When you service the fuel filter put die electric grease on both of the o rings. Ive had the same issue. Helps the orings seal better
Your Davco filter is supposed to be "dry". The higher the fuel gets into the bowl the dirter your filter is. You replace the filter once fuel gets closer to the top.
Have you considered putting a pit in the new shop for the semi? They sell them now with a hydraulic floor what will come up to shop floor height
My idea for a floor in a semi was always a wood bed kit for a pickup truck with the stainless trim. I think it would look awesome.
Those Davco Units have a check valve at the inlet hose. Take it out and clean it and you should be ok
Looks like it’s time for Gregy to invest into some tiger tools an step up to the big boys play ground lol
Tiger tool, 1" drive socket set, 1" drive air impact and axle nut sockets.
Omg this hurt to watch lol get a u-joint puller😂 Tiger tool is a good one.
Yes the Davco has a wimpy little spring on the check ball , always get something stuck under the ball though
I know that davco filter isn’t that old, I think you replaced it when you replaced the fuel tanks if I remember right, pull that filter back off and make sure the oring didn’t get pinched, they can still draw air without leaving a puddle of fuel underneath
Airdog makes a really nice pump/separater for big trucks!
Oh that BBWF in the background! (Big Beautiful White Ford)
You can put a speedy sleeve on the yoke end for a new sealing surface.
Silent Mike looks like he’s going to attend to his vegetable garden 😂
LMFAO 😂😂 that hat, though.
Before blaming fuel filter, check all the vents from the tanks as they cool off then it has to get more air in the tank some way so it syphons itself to get air.
Greg has me rolling with his "bust a nut jokes"!
Maybe a speedy sleeve if available ? For the grooves on yoke
Here’s an experienced news flash. I stopped the video where he showed the u-joint boxes and the seals in the bags, no part numbers for y’all to see. Rear pinion seal, and front input, 127591. Thru shaft seal 127592. When those seals are installed with a worn yoke that has a speedi-sleeve installed, the seals will be burned out in less than a week on a truck that works every day. Not if, it is WHEN. If you want to gamble on it, 99300 is a part number for wear sleeve.
DS404 or DSP40 generation rearends, I sell them too.
Safety glasses Mr Greg. That crap about shot you in the eyes 😳😂
Been watching your channel for a while now and realized why your area looked somewhat familiar. My grandpa who passed away 4 years ago used to live in Bowling Green Kentucky!!!
hey greg while you got the shaft out why not replace the other seal on the rear end . also the fuel issue could be a bad check valve in the line that is dumping it back into the tank
For starting issues could and commonly the primer handle or the 1 inch head on the side of the filter housing is a check/pressure valve
Looks like a davco filter unit, same as my freightliner basically. There should be a check ball in the inlet line. The ball will get larger crap for the tanks and stop sealing thus losing prime or just a long cranking start.
Also why did you push it out. Didn't see you drop the front driveshaft. Lock the power divider and drive it out and in
Nice shop and you don’t have a press?
You could probably get a speed sleeve for that yoke.
Change the fluid in that diff. It could be contaminated.
Greg A for your fuel problem change the ball check valve on the inlet side of the fuel filter and it should stop it from empty out of the fuel filter
Did silent Mike weave his hat from the straw or whatever was laying around the fifth wheel?
Get a speedy sleeve and fix the yoke bro !!!
You can lock the power divider and drive it under its own power in and out of the shop.
3 options: 1. check ball in fuel separator-also check after trans swap, may have created air entry. 2. Replace with Cat 256-8753 filter and 280-2698 base (flows more fuel). 3. Replace with FASS.
HEY!!! the seal rarely fails unless the pinion bearing has excessive wear. And clearly does because you have yoke damage from beating deflection.
Check and clean the axle breathers. Could be chasing leaks if breathers are clogged.
I wonder if they mark the drive shaft when they remove they probably did
Seeing they didn't split the slip joints, no need to mark them.
when you take the nut off the transmisson or rear end always replace it
Look up daycab interiors they have some nice replacement parts
What are the dot dates on those drive tires? I know the steers are old Michelin hasn’t made that tire in years.
Love the truck. Great video and job guys. Seal has seen it's better days.
Bowling green isnt that far from me hour or so im near paducah ky
Check with Day Cab for the interior for the Peterbilt
Damn, are they ever picking up the red truck?
There is a check valve in the Inlet to that davco housing. Couple bucks will fix that problem
Those hand primer pumps on the engine mounted fuel filter base have a check valve in them that goes bad and will cause you to lose prime
I never realized how big those U-Joints were til you put a human head behind it.
If you’ve handled them for the past 32 years like I have, they’re no big deal. I built and repaired shafts for 13 of the early years.
Without looking a book, 1710 series full round, 6.094” at flats that the plates seat against, 1.938 cap diameter, 5-280x part number.
Yoke splines size for thru shaft and rear pinion, 2.024-39 involuted spline with a different spline shape and thru length than a Meritor of samespline count and diameter.
Woah there Greg!!! SAFETY FIRST. Should not be hitting hammer face to hammer face like that as it could chip due to the hardness and trust me it flies off there like a bullet! I was hitting a splitting maul once which is meant to be hit and a piece still chipped off it and travelled through a muscle at the inside of my knee and out the back like an 1 deep and 1 1/2" long. Hurt like hell for days.
Speedy sleeve may be an alternative to another yoke... who knows
Also I'd ditch that primary filter and get a regular filter housing
What hammer do you want?
We had an air in fuel problem on a c15 and after trial and error for several months it turned out to have been a hole in the vacuum line for the fuel pressure gauge. So keep an eye out for something crazy like that.
I love Greg’s jokes
Missed you at Rudy’s!!!!!!!!
I wonder if the fuel problem is just a bad check valve so the fuel is just bleeding back to the tank
On your starting issue. Get rid of the RACOR, problem waiting to happen. Get a spin-on Primary. Replace the return Check valve, most likely not the cause but the cheapest fix. Most likely cause on your drain-back is the primer pump. There is a check in there that allows the fuel to drain out of the rail when bad.
Symptoms will lean towards injector O-rings, could be. Start here first, way cheaper.
On the u-joint install like this, always put some grease in the u-joint caps for a starter. The bearings in a Spicer u-joint won’t fall down because the cap needles are taper ground at each end for the groove in the cap and shape of cap seal to trap them. Also use antiseize on the outside of the cap. Then after full installation on this application, completely fill the u-joint with grease thru the grease zerks, that both go to a common lube gallery.
If I had a nickel for all of those that I have sold across the counter or installed in the shop.......
That yoke seal surface is junk. A wear sleeve will also cause having to pull it down again when using 127592 seal, don’t use 99300 or any variant. Been there by other folks mistakes.
You might want to check the other yokes and replace them
You have an issue with the pressure not escaping from the fuel tank check the valves on too of tank tracks
Definitely get a new nut for that yoke, I had one rust and have a hairline Crack in it and it lossend enough to vibrate and ended up ruining the yoke, seal and u joint
Working hard💪🏾
Should have used anti- seize on the bores and u-joint cups. . too much corrosives on the roads,cheap insurance for when you hit this problem in the middle of nowhere
"Probly"
seal sleeve?
When we getting a greg a lawn delete vidja?
Fas fuel pump helps to keep air from getting in the fuel system
That is a davco unit, works just as well to remove the air from the fuel going to the pump.
If the fuel filter is new, there will be very little fuel showing in the bowl. Has the filter becomes restricted, the fuel level rises.
Pull the ring off the water and fuel Separator and get a replacement oring
Hey Greg! What is your plan with the Pete? Is this going to be your job as a truck driver or are you going to use it as your toy hauler to the races? Either way, its a bad ass truck!! Good work on the vids. Keep em comin!
He already said he's not going to be doing any races with it. Strictly just to tow his trailer and trucks to races/events
Definitely get a new nut and 1 inch drive socket
I would get some of those old 70s trucker tapes ....play them in their....get rid of the gym shoes and you gotta wear cowboy boots a cowboy button up shirt with a big belt buckle....with gold nugget rings and chain wallet..oh don't forget a big cb raidio..10 4.....then drive to a truck stop and get you a big cup of coffee with a dounut.....👀
put dynamat in the cab you gonna enjoy that on the road.
Youre getting air somewhere in your fuel system, it could be anywhere really not necessarily that fuel bowl
Try Truckpro I belive there is one in Bowling Green.
Safety glasses Homs.
Get a snap-on 3/4 by far the best
Put a Fass or Airdog on and get it over with !!!!
That is a davco unit, works just as well to remove the air from the fuel going to the pump.
Twin sticks garage works on large trucks and restores them you should check him out he is very helpful. Keep up the good work and stay safe out there.
Check vander haggs for your dash parts Greg
You did not have to push the truck out you could use your interlock switch on your dash to lock in the front axle and you could’ve drove it
CR "Speedy Sleeve" They are Stainless , the Pioneer is chrome plated (NOT Good)
Speedy sleeve will fix that yoke.
Hey guys I have the perfect fix for your fuel bowl issue!.... get rid of it completely and put a FASS 250 for class 8 trucks on it.... ya gotta be running some lift pump on that dodge... same concept!!!... I know I run a fass 150 on my Duramax LML... and would like to know about the fass 250 lift pumps on class 8 trucks... the thought has passed through my mind to put one on my Kenworth....
It’s a 2 3/4” socket
Need bigger air gun. I have change my 1987 peterbilt couple times.
No le entiendo ni chimba 😂 pero muyyyyyy bien el vídeo 😅
The washers on your steering shocks are facing in....that is wrong they should be facing out i see that all the time
Looks like the peterbilt needs an airdog 😉
That is a davco unit, works just as well to remove the air from the fuel going to the pump.
Looks like time to ditch troubling fuel system and go airdog!
Greg wear your safety glasses when you pop that seal I watch dirt hit you in the face in HD
10:49 money shot
Stupid ass check valve gets ya every time!! Also if those stacks were about 5 feet shorter ya coulda got it in the barn!! 😂😂😂 nice rig though sharp!!
Many things that can cause engine to loose prime. In most cases never line fuel line but loose fitting, fuel tank (stand pipe is welded and it breaks at the top aka top draw tanks), filter housing. Cannot just guess and throw parts at it , hope you find it but you must find the leak. I do chase after air leaks in fuel systems, seen many throw ton of money and never find it. But turns out its simple oring that is problem. Then owner flips out can't be that I spent all this money putting parts on it from GUESSING.
just need a speedy sleeve
It can't be stuck if it's a liquid
Bro all you had to do was turn the power divider on and the truck would have moved perfectly fine. Power divider is used in snow mug or when the wheel is being spin out. Power divider is not meant to use in speed over 65 mph.
Don’t even waste your time. I rebuild gear boxes for a living for a lot of things. That seal track will leak if it’s not fixed.
total truck parts in glasgow would have that yoke
Just get Mike to fab a new dashboard piece die grind some lines on it and you will have a nice custom dashboard!!!!!!
Put a hard wood floor in it
Hey its farmer bob
First baby. Oh yeah
😂😂 no one cares
You put lift pumps on all your vehicles the transport is no different this is your chance to upgrade we all know you’re going to eventually want to make some power with the thing