Too Big for the Mill? NAH
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- Recently had a Day on the mill. This one log was half of it, This is how I manage to cut up logs that are too big for the mill. It is an American Red Elm that I cut down for a friend last August. The tree was infested with Black Carpenter ants and dying.
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Music from Epidemic Sound
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Its amazing what you get out of the HF sawmill! Nice job!
love your music selection
OMG Cy!! No fancy helmet or chaps???? And you still have all the appendages you was born with! ROFL
Great display of what the HF mill is capable of Cy. I have the current model saved in my wishlist and will pull the trigger as soon as we move in to the cabin (in another year or so).
Yea i'm kinda old school with the safety gear. I do have the chaps and wear them when taking down trees since things are a bit more unpredictable when doing that, but for a stationary log I don't worry quite as much. LOL
And yes the Mil is worth every penny. honestly I have more trouble coming up with drying space than anything else LOL.
Good job sawmilling keep up the good work see ya by and have ya a good one.
Nice job, Uncle. ;-)
But I noticed that you didn't cut any bowl blanks from that beautiful red elm.
BTW you're so lucky to have a wife that says "time for a new mill". Mine would say, "why do you need a bigger mill, just get smaller trees".
All the best, Jim
LOL she is my Girl friend as of yet but yea she's a keeper.
Really nice video thanks for sharing
Nicely Done!
Very nice 👍🏼
Cool rig.
Hey your milling video came up so I watched you challenge yourself. Seems to work pretty well.
Gday from Oz, cool video bunge👍👍
Great ideas for doing bigger logs
What thickness do you mill to to end up with a certain thickness once seasoned and kiln dried PAR?
I usually mill 3/16 to 1/4 over what I want to end up with so 3/4 inch will be milled at 1 inch etc. However it also has a great deal of where you are in the log, the pieces from near center warp less than pieces from the outer areas so gotta allow for that. Also spiecies of wood makes a differenc too, some woods "move" more than others. But that is kinda hit and miss till you get the hang of it.
Thank you, much appreciate your help!
Hey, Cy -- My dad is looking at buying a saw mill of comparable size to this one here. (Lives in Eastern Central Ohio on about a 10 hundred acres of hills and is looking to make better use of a lot of the timber there--a lot of maple, ash, oak, and walnut.) Is there a particular brand you would recommend, or particular pitfalls to look out for? Thanks! (By the way, I love your djembe projects. I'm a long-time percussionist, with a proclivity for hand percussion.)
I have seen a few reviews of different mills, not all of them good reviews. However I can only speak form my experience with this little HF mill, and honestly, for the money, its a great sawmill. And up grading the Tracks to get more length was even reasonable. (I did have to widen the grooves in the wheels a bit which took a metal lathe).
Glad you are enjoying the channel, I have a friend that needs some shells so will probably have a new shell turning video up before long too. Thanks for watching.
YAAAY djembe. I have a 14" Remo and a darbuka and a cajon. Oh and a 24" buffalo drum :-)
Check out a Range Road saw mill up to 32 inch log
It must feel so satisfying to cut your own wood like that.
Indeed it does.
Hey Uncle cy I love this video with the elm log you gave me an idea to make a fish-cleaning table so I went to a Amish Sawmill and got a couple pieces of oak but the wood is splitting so I would like to know how I fill in the cracks if I could use gorilla glue or what it's still drying out so I got it back in December I want to know how long I have to wait before I can refinish it thank you my friend
Depends on how thick it is. Oak is going to take about a year per inch of thickness. The more slowly you can dry it the less it will crack (and Oak is bad about cracking). Paint the end grain and keep it in a dry shaded area, don't let it get wet then dry like if its outside in the rain, and don't expose it to the sun for long periods of time, both of these contribute to cracking.
The best way to deal with cracking is probably let it dry and build your table and where the cracks are put in bow ties to keep it from getting worse then fill the crack with epoxy. This is a common practice on slab tables.
@@DIYwithUncleCy thank you very much Uncle cy
alaskan chainsaw mill would be perfect to cut it down to a workable cant
They have one but said they like using this much better
excellent music sellection ... the timmimg seemed perfect with the actions .... love it man
How many wood slabs did you get out of that big boy?
After those dry, they will make some great tables with the hollows filled with epoxy...
It looked like you were using water to “oil” your blade...what were you using???
Rick Sanchez C137 it is water but with a bit of dish soap in it, not much but enough to keep it from stinking when it sets for awhile.
I have the same mill. And also had to remove the handle to get the extra height just last week. Good job sir
What type of sawmill are you using?
Time to trade that mill and get a bigger one like the wife said
Hi Cy, what brand is your sawmill?
It looks like the one from harbor freight
So overall would you recommend this HF sawmill?? Thanks
Yes, it has been reliable for the entire time I have had it. Even after I moved it nearly 100 miles to where I live now. Once it's all adjusted it cuts true and the predator motor has always runs good.
All they Box Elder trees on my property are hollow in the middle. The carpenter ants are tearing them up. I'm cutting them all down for stove wood.
Cy, the sawhead seems dance around quite a bit. Does this affect the cut significantly? Granted, it's rough cut and can be milled out later, but I was just curious. Thanks for a great video...and for exterminating a few ants!
David Conaway It does have a little effect on the cut, but its very slight. A dull blade will have a worst effect. And yep before using these they will be planed down, I was allowing 1/4 on the slabs and the boards. Usually an 1/8 from each side is enough.
DIY with Uncle Cy thank you! I've seen other guy's put a larger engine on the HF sawmill. Is that something you would consider, or is the stock engine enough for the average hobbyist? Btw, your turning and carving vids are outstanding! Thanks again.
David Conaway I have thought about it. But the 8hp on it has done everything I need it to do so far. If this one breaks down in will get the next size bigger but see no reason to justify the expense for now. And thanks for the comments.
Stopped watching for lunch break right when your lady gave permission to "get a bigger sawmill", soooooo you have permission to go shopping.
Permission yes. Money to do so us another story. LOL
How true
i like the vid but cant watch because music is way to loud
s you don't have a volume button?
Equalized Volume makes for a better viewing experience. Talking is quiet, turn volume up , then BOOM! MUSIC!
Great Vid , but it would be better still if you left the music at home .
@@loooseunit agreed
instead of taking off a slab, halving the log or quartering it will give you better yield... some of the best figure in elm is in the layers you threw away....
I've taken the push handle off of mine. Allows me to crank the sawhead throat 29 inches off the bunks.
Oh... Haha just got to the point in the video where you do that
B,C ants are big, but man, you should see the size of L,F ants in Africa
LOL
Did you buy a electric winch yet 😳
WHY DID YOU LEAVE ONE LIVE EDGE?????
Kitchen counter tops with one live edge are preferred in many areas. Since I have been selling slabs for 7 years now I get the question from customers of " Do you have slabs with one live edge?" all the time, Sorry kind of a dumb question but I answered it any way.
You should make your mill lower to the ground...
why would anyone mill elm???
Elm makes very tough axe handles.