Traxxas 2.5R clean up new bearings new connecting rod
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
- ps The super clean shown in the video is extremely caustic and can be very damaging to aluminum if you do plan on using it it's at your own risk do not use hot water and only let it sit for a few seconds maximum If you're uncertain of what you're using read the label if it says it contains potassium or sodium hydroxide you should probably avoid it and stick with something like denatured alcohol
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Cheers Luke ,,, watched this just before doing my bearings on my TRX 3.3.... always good video's dude and as helpful as every....Thanks bro 💯👍👍✌️
Right on man glad it helped!
My favorite trick for dislodging stubborn sleeves is to cheech a zip tie or a piece of hard wood in the exhaust port, across to a transfer port, then try to roll it over. The plastic/wood is softer than any of the metal parts so it won't damage anything, instead just shearing off if the sleeve's exceptionally stuck. Never a metal tool always plastic or wood. I've also got some hardwood drifts to hammer one out from underneath with; agian wood softer than the metals won't damage anything.
I'm genuinely shocked at how easy yours popped out, but that may be because you already had it out at some point recently? They usually glue themselves in something fierce over time.
I used a zip tie technique quite often it works pretty good or a popsicle stick Any as this engine was previously disassembled that's why I ordered parts for it
@@thebug4046 Heh, yeah. Also been known to get the torch involved for particularly stubborn sleeves; heat the case up around it to help looosen it up.
I do think a bushing in the small end of the rod in these things would solve the failure issues. That soft aluminum wearing away is why they start hammering themselves apart like that. If they don't want to put more meat up there, especially so. I've seen plenty of plane engines with unbushed small ends but tehy're never anywhere near as heavily stressed as the 3.5 and 3.3 are.
3.3 especially so. I've heard the 2.5s tend to not throw rods unless you poke them with a stick while the 3.3 will often yeet one during break-in. My 3.3 was probably 5 minutes from throwing a rod and was saved by the piston/sleeve having gone out first.
@@TestECull You don't really see much in the way of rod failures with the 2.5 I mean it's not unheard of it does happen but does not very frequently the 3.3 the have your piston it's just an overall poor design even my diesels which have it cast iron peston and run an extremely high compression ratios have aluminum connecting rods with no bushings and they not split human at 17000 rpm continuously
Get yourself an UltraSonic cleaner from Harbor Freight. They're about $70 USD. I use 70/30 simple green/water mix in it. Makes aluminum look brand new with no scrubbing required. i use it on nasty motorcycle carbs.
Got no space and they are 150 here maybe one day we will see
I've used carb and choke cleaner or brake cleaner and never had a problem and it cleaned it completely
As long as it works go for it
Been looking at the TRX 2.5 & 3.3 Engines and noticed the outside of them don’t as dirty as the pro .15 does. Guess with all the o rings and better design. Oil just doesn’t leak everywhere. Like how the .15 does
I run the pro 15s all the time and they don't leak at all that's probably lack of exhaust gasket or tunein to rich that will make the front Bearing leak excessive oil
Are you a fan of Fast Eddie bearings? I was thinking about ordering a set for my O.S. .18CV-R. They list them for an O.S. .18CV-RX.... hope they're the same. Love your channel and Milwaukee's Beast 🤜🤛🍻🍻
Thanks man! Any yeah I haven't had a problem with there bearings all seems good
“You can end up blowing your fucking piping up” 🤣🤣😂
🤣🤣
You are right WD40 will not touch it. I have tried. I will try the super clean.
Be very careful with super clean as it will attack the aluminum and destroy it very quickly if you don't know how to use it properly!
Set your upstairs neighbor on fire😂 I was thinking the same for awhile now
Hahaha yup! They moved out just a while ago im happy
I was thinking to do a wrenching video on my s25. Whenever I get the parts.
Nothing like turning over a freshly built engine especially with new piston, ring and sleeve.
For sure
Love the smart ass attitude 💥💥💥😜
More where that came from 😆
will brake cleaner or contact cleaner eat at the seals on the motor or carb
Non chlorinated brake parts cleaner seems to work perfectly fine and safe I haven't seen any damaged in the silicone whatsoever but the O rings should be replaced upon rebuild
@@thebug4046 I use brake clean as well. I usually take the "o" rings off before I clean the parts. After awhile the acetone will damage the nitrile "o" ring surface and starts to shed pieces off. In all the engines that I have cleaned I noticed that the brake cleaner wasn't as effective as I thought, probably due to the varnish and crud being an organic build up from the castor. I had much better results a from a product called " Pro Nitro cleaner". Its been discontinued for awhile but if you can find some it's worth it. Totally cleans up the most cruddy engines easily. I would use gloves when you use it as it is made up of Aliphatic Hydrocarbons amd denatured Alcohols and will strip the oils from your hands causing your skin to crack severely.
Can you add the part numbers for the bearings and piston sleeve etc. I have a old 2.5 and I think I should rebuild it.
Get a good set of bearings. The oem ones are garbage and the fast Eddie bearings don't last long before falling apart. The piston and sleeve is the same for the 2.5 2.5R same with the wrist pin and connecting rod and crankshaft the 3.3 crankshaft will fit the 2.5 block as well. It's actually lighter and flows better. Just look up the parts Traxxas 2.5 engine parts
Whene should I change the radon and the pin only. what the problem I might face so I can change them.
Change the bearings rod and wrist pin every 3 gallons or so
Super clean ? Could you give me some more info on it i want to make sure i get the right stuff thanks
I went suggest using it unless you absolutely know what you're doing because it will destroy aluminum it will also eat And Remove anodizing I can't help you on where to get it I get it at a truck stop
try using exorust for removing on your rusted parts
I was looking into that but we don't have that here we have something similar though.
Could you use engine assembly lube when putting these engines back together? Or just use the after run?
Most of the time using something like car engine assembly lubricant is a little bit too thick and heavy But you can use racing grade Castor oil regular engine oil things like that The one bottle that says after run oil is just automatic transmission fluid mixed with synthetic 5W30 engine oil the skinny tall bottle is just raising grain Castor oil
I just had to fix that my phone is retarded sometimes and likes to rearrange things and make up words that aren't there
I enjoyed a great video let's be friends.
우리 친구 해요.~~
😁😁😁😁😁
oh man seeing this video makes me want to clean my engine aswell!
"schmutz" is your typical English word for something that is literally covered in dirt/shit/filth/grime. One can also use it to replace the word rubbish :)
Haha basically
What's the difference between the 2.5 and 2.5R ?
Absolutely nothing. Other than a blue cylinder head and a 80$ higher price tag Traxxas engines are not racing engines they are low quality 3 port RTR engines
What would make the top of the piston on a 3.3 become pitted?
Running extremely lean
@@thebug4046 I bought the motor from a friend really cheap. It looked brand new on the outside and ran good. The high speed needle was around 4 turns out. He has only ran just under a gallon threw it but when i disassembled it there were a few pits around the outside edges of the piston. For $25 I'm just going to keep running it in my revo. If it blows up I'm not out a lot of money. I also bought a nitro rustler from him with no motor. What would be a good motor for it instead of a traxxas motor?
@@trickmustang1994 a good replacement is the Dynamite 19 and THS pipe kit and a quality 30/9 fuel really good runner and good power!
Good job 👍 thanks
No problem!
let me know how they last....the last few pairs of crank bearings i got from them either destroyed themselves or the cages would split when i would take the crank out...not sure whats happened to fast eddy..
I have been running their bearings on and off for years haven't had any issue or a just go to my bearing supplier and get SKF bearings but they didn't have the ones I needed
@@thebug4046 I have been using Fast Eddies for years without an issue. The only ones I have had problems with are the TRB's with the races spinning on the crank...Both the Engine and bell housing bearings.
@@Mad_Scientist2052 they have been good i don't by them very often Or RC bearings in general from the hobby shop or any hobby manufacture I go to my bearing supplier I get them a lot cheaper Because those ceramic bearings ridiculous $80 for engine bearings they can keep it and you have to replace them more often to
@@thebug4046 yes, I know what you mean, very over priced. I have have also gone with other companies for bearings as well. In most cases they are alot cheaper. I also use the same local bearing distributor for custom made oil lite bushings in my older power tool rebuilding projects.
@@Mad_Scientist2052 nice and with other bearings like for wheels and what not i just run cheap Chinese bearings i get a bunch of them cheap
Nice vid! I had a question about the gas 1/5 rc. What is their engine operating temp, I dunno if horizon hobby just has the shittiest telemetry because my engine was apparently running at 250 degrees, running at pretty much factory settings, and a 28:1 ratio. Thanks man
No idea on temperature As they are fan cooled and 28:1 is to much oil 32:1 is a better mix it will have better power and run cool and tune better run a higher octane fuel if possible with no ethanol and a high end 2 stoke oil i don't like ams oil because it Fouls spark plugs and runs like garbage at anything less than 60:1
@@thebug4046 so could the ethanol in my fuel be the problem? I can’t really find non ethanol, I run royal purple oil. I will mix 32:1 next time
@@nitrogas5719 ethanol Has less energy by volume in and also will attack your fuel system over time I try to avoid it as much as possible of anything I own However there is a way to get rid of it by the highest octane you can in the pump if it contains ethanol put it in a big jug add some water and shake it that will remove the ethanol and then separate the water from your gasoline and then pre mix it's a little easier said than done but it's doable
Is the FS-15 nitro engine an O.S. product?
I'd have to see it there is so many engines out there but if you are interested you can check out my Facebook nitro/diesel/gas rc and more
Very cool thanks sir
No problem!
if i have a 6000mah battery and have a max of a 5amp charger will it go to 100% still.
Like my battery is 6000mah and I charge it at 5amps will in still go to 100% or will it got to like 80 to 90%
Pls pls someone respond. I haven’t got a respond on someone else this is my last try on this
No idea man I don't do battery stuff
@22_Zeo oh ok thx thx for responding. Can’t believe it’s been a year
I have a 3.3 crank should i put in my 2.5 engine
If you want
@@thebug4046 There a gain or not
@@jonathanjo4273 it will fit right in and flow a little better if you want you can use it
@@thebug4046 i Will try thanks
I got a questions for you? If my antenna ripped off can I used speaker wire. And is it going to be a difference
You can use old Telephone cord just stripped off the large casing and pull a strand out strip at both ends and soldered on
@@thebug4046 i don’t got téléphone cord I used speaker wire does it still work
@@krodyssey4770 as long as it works
@@thebug4046 i haven’t tested it out because I’m scared that my nitro will run away
@@krodyssey4770 It can happen you are and 10 it is supposed to be pointing upwards towards the sky and certain wire is more r Resistive than others And might not work properly Speaker wire is not really a good and Tana like the koax that's designed for that
yes sir there sweet when done right i like um.
i would use wd-40 to flush out the water on the parts
That's what I did with the crankshaft Since the engine block got heated up all the moisture of operated away
@@thebug4046 also good to dissolve the gummy old fuel
@@IcyDracula WD40 works ok not the best Non chlorinated brake parts clear will dissolve all the varnish in a matter of seconds after that just apply fresh oil and you're done I notice with WD40 and some types of fuel residue it can get sticky
invest in a harbor freight ultra sonic cleaner you'll thank me
We don't have that company here we have something similar i was looking into them and not paying 150$ for something I am only going to use ones and a while got no room for it anyway haha I am going to do a Anti freeze cleaning tank one day when I have more space