Had a 221 in a 33 ford it ran very well . I got onto trouble when i raised the compression , head gaskets , had to settle on 11 -1 which took another set of pistons . After that and a few dozen cam changes i finely hit what engine liked . Great on gas and it would roll along 70 - 80 all day . Put a ton of miles on the Alu. rad. solved the heat problem . The last time i saw it was setting out sidethe man shop who i sold it to chopped up pretty good pretty well rusted , his hot rod skills weren't to good . That was 40 years ago ................
Just to clear up any possible confusion, the rocker studs you are dealing with are not original to your heads. What you have there are 7/16" X 3/8" threaded replacement studs which are sometimes used to replace the original (pressed in) 3/8" X 5/16" "positive stop" OEM studs. They are furnished by several vendors and are available from almost any machine shop, speed shop, or auto parts store. Most of the brands you'll encounter are actually manufactured by Pioneer Products, whom I'm pretty-sure also sells them direct...Hope this helps...Good video BTW.
The lifter preload on these engines ( and ALL old-school Ford OHV engines with hydraulic lifters) is adjusted by adjusting the pushrod length. On the Fords with hydraulic lifters, you just run the rocker nut down till it bottoms out and torque to spec. Now this is with the factory rocker studs on for hydraulic lifter applications REGARDLESS of the stud diameter.. Ford had multiple lengths of pushrods in the parts books for adjusting lifter preload most aftermarket suppliers also offer different pushrod lengths. Typically you would install the correct length pushrods for the correct preload, this is doubly important with the early style of rail rocker such as you have as incorrect valve train geometry can lead to the rails on the rockers bottoming out (especially as the rockers wear) against the valve keeper resulting in a dropped valve, then nobody has a good day when that happens....
@@whiplashmachine NO that's not correct. There were exactly 2 Ford OHV V8's that had adjustable stud mounted rockers from the factory, the 429 SCJ and the 289HiPo. They are also the ONLY mech lifter engines that had stud mounted rockers. ALL other Ford Engines with stud mounted rockers are adjusted through the push rod length, and the rocker nuts are just bottomed out. ALSO the only OHV V8 engine family's to use stud mounted rockers are the early Small Blocks and the early 385 Series Big Blocks. Everything else used shaft mounted rockers or sled fulcrum rockers.
@@matthewq4b Well I bang out a few dozen 289's, 302's and well, not so many 351W's each year and many of the early ones have 3/8" adjustable rocker studs and they are certainy not the hipo heads. I do have some with the 3/8" stud that taper down to a 5/16" threaded end that yes, you crank em down all the way but I come across more of the 3/8" threaded adjustable studs here. The pedistol mount rockers for Windsors came out early 70's and and stayed throughout the manufacturing period and was never on a 289 My discusion here derived from you stating "ALL old-school Ford OHV engines" and well I just shipped out another 289 yesterday (non hipo) with factory 3/8" adjustable studs. I also have a 302 on the go with same studs and a set of 289 heads being rebuilt with same fctory 3/8" studs. If I posted a video with a non hipo head with factory 3/8" studs would you beleive after that?
@@whiplashmachine Go back and read what I wrote I said "Ford OHV engines WITH hydraulic lifters" Looks like you missed that bit. And ANY engines you get with with adjustable rocker studs that are not a 429SCJ OR 289 Hi PO's have been modified to adjustable studs. This was a very very common thing to do back in the day. Whenever heads or a block was decked (or even with a cam swap) and if you could not get the adequate or correct lifter preload it was far easier, faster and cheaper to just swap out the rocker studs than it was to individually measure the needed length for each push rod then order them from Ford (basically the only supplier for the various push rod lengths at the time). I've been building these engines for I suspect decades before you were even born. Basically 50 years now. What you are seeing now are the left overs of which many have been rebuilt or worked over multiple times. Again Ford NEVER installed from the factory ANY adjustable rockers studs on ANY juice engine and the ONLY ones they did install them on were the HI-PO 289 and the 429 SCJ. And Ford unlike GM and Chryco documented ALL parts utilizations and changes in the parts manuals with supplemental and updates. So post the casting numbers of these supposed head with adjustable rockers studs and I can guarantee you EVERY single one will have been be equipped with non adjustable studs from the factory. This far on you can NOT use what crosses your bench to say this or that was done. As too much time has passed and there has been too much opportunity for mods to have been made. The last time Ford used Stud mounted rockers was over 46 years ago The small block was the last one to use them in the 76 model year and they were positive stop studs.....
Thanks for the video good job. question if you don't mind. I have a 1969 351W engine. The lifters are not primed. the only way I can get the lash out is to run the rocker nuts all the way down on the rocker bolt. At that point I really can't pre-load the lifters either. Does that sounds correct? I wonder if my push rods are too short? Also do you know if I need to double nut each rocker to ensure the nuts don't com e loose? thanks again
The correct nuts are crimped at the top and should not turn. When my lock nuts start to drag the pushrods is when there is one or two threads showing above the lock nut. If you have to run the nut down way farther than that, you might have 289/302 pushrods (351w has a taller deck and longer pushrods)
Check out "matthew Matthewq's" reply above yours. He states (and with confidence!) that stud mounted ford OHV V8's all have the nuts run down to the bottom and torqued- preload set via pushrod length.
U don't put oil in the new lifters ,do every rocker just the way u did the first one to get 0 lash on everyone of them with out turning the motor till your done with all of them set at 0 lash then u turn the motor 90degrees goback and check all of them to 0 lash again turn 90 degrees and set 0 lash again then turn motor 90degrees again check valve lash again then Stat 3/ 4 turn on every rocker do not turn the motor just set every one weather they are up or down 3/4 of A turncoat will b 33 thousands and don't touch it the valves are set pour oil over thlifters to fill them 2 3 quarts and no problems it will start with no noise every time done it that way for yrs
1948 Ford F4 truck that is going on a 2009 F350 4x4 dually chassis and getting a 7.3L diesel & 5 speed. If you subscribe to my channel you will get notified when new videos arrive.
There's a circlip at the top of each lifter. This retains the hydraulic piston within the lifter body. Position the lifters fror each cylinder on split overlap or ensure the lifter that you're focusing on, is on the heel of the camshaft lobe (as you're currently doing.) Next, insert the pushrod between the lifter and the rocker. Now tighten the nut on the rocker down until the lifter piston is .020" - .060" below the circlip. This can be gauged using a thin welding rod or similar that is bent at a right angle so that the rod forms a small L at one end. Use a set of verniers to check and adjust the thickness of the rod if required. When this "gauge" can be inserted between the lifter piston and the lifter circlip, the correct preload has been achieved.
did the 1/2 of a turn on my stock 1963 Falcon V8 260 after replacing the valve's seals and I had chatter... 3/4 did the trick. More than that, and you'll get the valve not closing properly.
3/4 of a turn with the 3/8" studs give you about 0.0375" preload, which is the ideal amount. You can turn them more though as the plunger in a factory style lifter has about 0.170" of travel. David Vizard has done dyno testing on his channel where he bottoms the plunger out and then backs the nut off starting from the bottom and achieved really good results.
Pretty good video, but saying you found a "pretty credible" source that says 1/2 to 3/4 turn is not right. Its an opinion rather than the fact. Ford says 1/4 turn after the pushrod can no longer be spun. Just use the actual source. I am a certified Ford technician - Ford asset # 6818825. "...when the pushrod can no longer be turned, all clearance has been removed. After the clearance has been removed, tighten the nut an additional 1/4 of a turn." Courtesy of Ford Motor Company. I use the manual so there is a quality and warranty to the repair. Adjsuted to specification means nothing if it is not.
Thank you for the info. Always good to have more info. I'm definitely no expert and welcome any credible sources. It must have been good enough, truck still runs great & gets driven many times a week. Thanks for watching!
Oh no get rid of those rockers they get worn in the middle and the side scurts will push on the valve spring and the keepers will come out and thar 260 280 302 351 400 will swallow a valve beleive me those rockers are junk that's why you are having trouble with your adj they will cost u a engine ,,,and 3/4 of a turn is 30 thousands those Ford rockers are trouble I'm telling u if there are any miles on those rocker arms junk them it cost me 2 motors and I put new lifters balls and push rods but the rockers cost me because where they touch the top of the valve it gets worn inside there and the side skirts push on the retainer and those keepers will pop out and the valve hits the piston and breaks a hole in the cylinder wall ,,,good luck if u leave them in
Never seen this happen or heard of this happening ever before in my life… those pedestal rockers are just fine. Maybe you’re the problem with that failure..
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Had a 221 in a 33 ford it ran very well . I got onto trouble when i raised the compression , head gaskets , had to settle on 11 -1 which took another set of pistons . After that and a few dozen cam changes i finely hit what engine liked . Great on gas and it would roll along 70 - 80 all day . Put a ton of miles on the Alu. rad. solved the heat problem . The last time i saw it was setting out sidethe man shop who i sold it to chopped up pretty good pretty well rusted , his hot rod skills weren't to good . That was 40 years ago ................
Just to clear up any possible confusion, the rocker studs you are dealing with are not original to your heads. What you have there are 7/16" X 3/8" threaded replacement studs which are sometimes used to replace the original (pressed in) 3/8" X 5/16" "positive stop" OEM studs. They are furnished by several vendors and are available from almost any machine shop, speed shop, or auto parts store. Most of the brands you'll encounter are actually manufactured by Pioneer Products, whom I'm pretty-sure also sells them direct...Hope this helps...Good video BTW.
Cool man thanks i was having trouble understanding lash and preload
i use the half turn method, but i would use the poly locks instead of the factory style nuts
Super helpful. Thank you
Those heads came factory with larger studs on older ford 351w boat motors. I got 3 1970s blocks with those d heads everyone talks about..
The lifter preload on these engines ( and ALL old-school Ford OHV engines with hydraulic lifters) is adjusted by adjusting the pushrod length. On the Fords with hydraulic lifters, you just run the rocker nut down till it bottoms out and torque to spec. Now this is with the factory rocker studs on for hydraulic lifter applications REGARDLESS of the stud diameter.. Ford had multiple lengths of pushrods in the parts books for adjusting lifter preload most aftermarket suppliers also offer different pushrod lengths. Typically you would install the correct length pushrods for the correct preload, this is doubly important with the early style of rail rocker such as you have as incorrect valve train geometry can lead to the rails on the rockers bottoming out (especially as the rockers wear) against the valve keeper resulting in a dropped valve, then nobody has a good day when that happens....
Many of the early Ford engines had fully adjustable rockers and used 3/8" studs. Not "all" were set by bottoming out the nut.
@@whiplashmachine NO that's not correct. There were exactly 2 Ford OHV V8's that had adjustable stud mounted rockers from the factory, the 429 SCJ and the 289HiPo. They are also the ONLY mech lifter engines that had stud mounted rockers. ALL other Ford Engines with stud mounted rockers are adjusted through the push rod length, and the rocker nuts are just bottomed out. ALSO the only OHV V8 engine family's to use stud mounted rockers are the early Small Blocks and the early 385 Series Big Blocks. Everything else used shaft mounted rockers or sled fulcrum rockers.
@@matthewq4b Well I bang out a few dozen 289's, 302's and well, not so many 351W's each year and many of the early ones have 3/8" adjustable rocker studs and they are certainy not the hipo heads. I do have some with the 3/8" stud that taper down to a 5/16" threaded end that yes, you crank em down all the way but I come across more of the 3/8" threaded adjustable studs here. The pedistol mount rockers for Windsors came out early 70's and and stayed throughout the manufacturing period and was never on a 289
My discusion here derived from you stating "ALL old-school Ford OHV engines" and well I just shipped out another 289 yesterday (non hipo) with factory 3/8" adjustable studs. I also have a 302 on the go with same studs and a set of 289 heads being rebuilt with same fctory 3/8" studs. If I posted a video with a non hipo head with factory 3/8" studs would you beleive after that?
@@whiplashmachine Go back and read what I wrote I said "Ford OHV engines WITH hydraulic lifters" Looks like you missed that bit. And ANY engines you get with with adjustable rocker studs that are not a 429SCJ OR 289 Hi PO's have been modified to adjustable studs. This was a very very common thing to do back in the day. Whenever heads or a block was decked (or even with a cam swap) and if you could not get the adequate or correct lifter preload it was far easier, faster and cheaper to just swap out the rocker studs than it was to individually measure the needed length for each push rod then order them from Ford (basically the only supplier for the various push rod lengths at the time). I've been building these engines for I suspect decades before you were even born. Basically 50 years now. What you are seeing now are the left overs of which many have been rebuilt or worked over multiple times. Again Ford NEVER installed from the factory ANY adjustable rockers studs on ANY juice engine and the ONLY ones they did install them on were the HI-PO 289 and the 429 SCJ. And Ford unlike GM and Chryco documented ALL parts utilizations and changes in the parts manuals with supplemental and updates. So post the casting numbers of these supposed head with adjustable rockers studs and I can guarantee you EVERY single one will have been be equipped with non adjustable studs from the factory. This far on you can NOT use what crosses your bench to say this or that was done. As too much time has passed and there has been too much opportunity for mods to have been made. The last time Ford used Stud mounted rockers was over 46 years ago The small block was the last one to use them in the 76 model year and they were positive stop studs.....
@@whiplashmachine Oh and every single small block you have posted on your channel was opened up previously before it crossed your bench..
Where are you located? Thanks
Thanks for the video good job. question if you don't mind. I have a 1969 351W engine. The lifters are not primed. the only way I can get the lash out is to run the rocker nuts all the way down on the rocker bolt. At that point I really can't pre-load the lifters either. Does that sounds correct? I wonder if my push rods are too short? Also do you know if I need to double nut each rocker to ensure the nuts don't com e loose? thanks again
The correct nuts are crimped at the top and should not turn. When my lock nuts start to drag the pushrods is when there is one or two threads showing above the lock nut. If you have to run the nut down way farther than that, you might have 289/302 pushrods (351w has a taller deck and longer pushrods)
Check out "matthew Matthewq's" reply above yours. He states (and with confidence!) that stud mounted ford OHV V8's all have the nuts run down to the bottom and torqued- preload set via pushrod length.
U don't put oil in the new lifters ,do every rocker just the way u did the first one to get 0 lash on everyone of them with out turning the motor till your done with all of them set at 0 lash then u turn the motor 90degrees goback and check all of them to 0 lash again turn 90 degrees and set 0 lash again then turn motor 90degrees again check valve lash again then Stat 3/ 4 turn on every rocker do not turn the motor just set every one weather they are up or down 3/4 of A turncoat will b 33 thousands and don't touch it the valves are set pour oil over thlifters to fill them 2 3 quarts and no problems it will start with no noise every time done it that way for yrs
Tks for the vid.
What kind of big truck do you have in the foreground of the video?
1948 Ford F4 truck that is going on a 2009 F350 4x4 dually chassis and getting a 7.3L diesel & 5 speed. If you subscribe to my channel you will get notified when new videos arrive.
There's a circlip at the top of each lifter. This retains the hydraulic piston within the lifter body. Position the lifters fror each cylinder on split overlap or ensure the lifter that you're focusing on, is on the heel of the camshaft lobe (as you're currently doing.)
Next, insert the pushrod between the lifter and the rocker. Now tighten the nut on the rocker down until the lifter piston is .020" - .060" below the circlip. This can be gauged using a thin welding rod or similar that is bent at a right angle so that the rod forms a small L at one end. Use a set of verniers to check and adjust the thickness of the rod if required. When this "gauge" can be inserted between the lifter piston and the lifter circlip, the correct preload has been achieved.
W ❤
Vlglv go poop 💩
did the 1/2 of a turn on my stock 1963 Falcon V8 260 after replacing the valve's seals and I had chatter... 3/4 did the trick. More than that, and you'll get the valve not closing properly.
3/4 of a turn with the 3/8" studs give you about 0.0375" preload, which is the ideal amount. You can turn them more though as the plunger in a factory style lifter has about 0.170" of travel. David Vizard has done dyno testing on his channel where he bottoms the plunger out and then backs the nut off starting from the bottom and achieved really good results.
What size is those screws
Scrap those rockers for roller tip ones and use guide plates to keep everything lined up.I did this on my GT 40 heads on a 351w.
You cannot do that to this block it isn’t a rollover block 😂
Pretty good video, but saying you found a "pretty credible" source that says 1/2 to 3/4 turn is not right. Its an opinion rather than the fact. Ford says 1/4 turn after the pushrod can no longer be spun. Just use the actual source. I am a certified Ford technician - Ford asset # 6818825. "...when the pushrod can no longer be turned, all clearance has been removed. After the clearance has been removed, tighten the nut an additional 1/4 of a turn." Courtesy of Ford Motor Company. I use the manual so there is a quality and warranty to the repair. Adjsuted to specification means nothing if it is not.
Thank you for the info. Always good to have more info. I'm definitely no expert and welcome any credible sources. It must have been good enough, truck still runs great & gets driven many times a week. Thanks for watching!
I'm probably going to get hollered at by UA-cam but you guys got to look at it and know the difference
you forgot the 221
You are correct... I completely forgot about the 221... LoL. Thanks. I'll update it.
What is 221?
They're going to have a brain sometimes to look at it
Doesn't keep that much
That's what I'd try for bs trails
Oh no get rid of those rockers they get worn in the middle and the side scurts will push on the valve spring and the keepers will come out and thar 260 280 302 351 400 will swallow a valve beleive me those rockers are junk that's why you are having trouble with your adj they will cost u a engine ,,,and 3/4 of a turn is 30 thousands those Ford rockers are trouble I'm telling u if there are any miles on those rocker arms junk them it cost me 2 motors and I put new lifters balls and push rods but the rockers cost me because where they touch the top of the valve it gets worn inside there and the side skirts push on the retainer and those keepers will pop out and the valve hits the piston and breaks a hole in the cylinder wall ,,,good luck if u leave them in
Never seen this happen or heard of this happening ever before in my life… those pedestal rockers are just fine. Maybe you’re the problem with that failure..
@@lonewolftech sorry just telling you what happened ,,,,your right