New Tool on the workbench. First time repairing a Broken Makita DSL800 Drywall Sander
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- Its not often I get a new tool in for repair. So it's nice to start 2025 of with something new.
This Makita DSL800 Drywall Sander came as it had stopped running. The motor tries to run but won't rotate.
Luckily for this man it was only a broken bearing in the motor and a cheap and easy fix. As he needed it olin a hurry and thus is a machine the shop has never stocked. So we couldn't even sell him a new one.
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What I learned from you is the courage to open and see what is wrong with my handtools that I did not have it before many thanks
The EXACT same bearing was bad on a used one of these i bought a year ago. In fact, i asked you on IG messaging how i could pull the bearing for this and your replied. It was an absolute pain to get off, and i had to dremel the side of the interior sleeve of the bearing to crack it.
That undersized bearing must be a consistent point of failure on this machine.
On mine I also had to replace the leaf springs on the brush housing, the vacuum port was cracked, the top hose was missing, and the rubber plugs on the side of the motor housing were also missing. The wiring on my extension arm wasnt frayed, they may have put an upgraded part in my model for it.
Not even $50 in parts and i had her right as rain.
nice one. well worth it for 50
Loved every second of this video Dean! So fun to see how you go about an unfamiliar machine and the way you explain what you're looking at and thinking about while you figure it out.
It was a beatiful job on that sander.Thanks for the video Dean
Glad you enjoyed it
Had a Porter Cable corded drywall sander years ago. Seems the hardest thing on the parts was the user pressing to hard while sanding. A true testament to the saying "let the TOOL do the work!" Never force it.
Thanks for another great video. A single layer of pop can wrapped around that bearing will solve that melted housing for free.
On my own tools I like to use a small needle and pack a little extra Grease in the bearing I know it all oozes out but it creates semi-seal of half hard and grease.
Nice one! Haven't had one of these in our workshop yet so was a pleasure seeing you taking it apart.
Brother Dean, putting electric tape on a small socket with a drill to have a smaller mass to run around the wire works a treat.
Genius!
Nice treat there for us Dean. I love how you work out how to get into tool you haven’t worked on before. Comes from experience and being confident how it should come apart like how you mentioned it should come off at the bottom and it eventually did. So many people would have probably taken off half a dozen other things just to get no where.
Great video
Good video dean happy new year🎉
Thanks as always Dean!!!!!!!
Well worked out Dean Thanks
Thanks for the video Mr Dean that one was a real head scratcher at first but you managed to get it done nice one cheers
I'm a new subscriber from the USA, love watching your videos, I've noticed some of the tools have different type of plug ins. Could you sometime explain the differences sometime. All of our are the same. Thank you sir.
Different parts of the world have different plugs. Dean is in Ireland which uses European style plugs that are 220v primarily and they need a separate transformer to use 120v tools. 220v are the smaller square-ish 3 pronged plugs(black\brown usually) with a a fuse in it - 2 hots & a ground\earth. The big round long(yellow & white usually) plug is a 120v plug 1 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground\earth.
I appreciate that, besides a floor sander all our corded power tools run on 110 15 to 20 amps. Thank you
Nice job Dean didn't know they came battery operated, I have a porter cable corded one with the vacuum...Mabry 30 years old and still running!!!
I figured dried seized bearings at the start as usual for any tool that sees a lot of fine dust. Then it sounded like a gearbox problem and it was a bearing in the end.
Also, adding cleverly placed orifices dedicated for cleaning with compressed air, would most certainly prolong the service intervals.
Does such solutions exist for any tools you've serviced?
Dean when you have a new tool you haven’t worked on do you ever need to refer back to the recording to put bits back together. At least it’s all logged for you. 👍🏻
That machine looks like it hasn’t been used with a dust extractor with so much dust up the pipe stopping the clamp gripping.
Nice jib Dean didn't know anyone made a battery operated drywall sander. I have a porter cable sander and vacuum. Its about 30 years old ,still running too!!!
Same here, never seen one in person. Doubt we actually even get them here in South Africa
A tip can be to use a small socket and roll some tape on to it and then use it to insulate the wires.
Or buy a Bosch , that has 60cm/2ft extensions with solid wiring, same as Festool but way cheaper
Socket\tape trick works very well for wrapping tight areas! Eric O(SMA) uses it regularly on his videos.👍🏻👌🏻🔌⚡🔋
@@pete_lind That is definitely a better design.
It’s my experience that these types of sanders gets absolutely abused. They run continuously hours upon hours 5 days a week and will need to be serviced quite often. The flex giraffe sanders are the standard here though which this design on the makita very much resembles
By the way great job
Not sure about that outer perimeter brush seal but the 5inch one for the pc5000 concrete grinder is $80aud and if you use it often, probably go through one a week.
Reckon you could use this tool to sand a deck? Seems like the perfect option because there are cheap versions that cost less than hireing a floor sander
Hey Dean there is a rubberised tape get rid of old plastic sheath and use rubber tape get it from e,ectrcal supplier
Thank you for your information. I have the same problem with a machine that was damaged. Where can I get the part to repair it?
Or the wire that enables the thing to extend make it like the coiled telephone type and have it around the dust extraction tube.
It looks like the majority of the dust got into the motor, where the wires come into it, so they could have put some sealant in the channel they go through and that would stop the dust getting through that way.
Should have wrapped the insulation tape around a small socket so it would have been easier to wrap the tape around those wires instead of struggling to get the roll of tape between the wires and the extraction tube.
Asked Porter Cable RD if they would make a random orbital head, the guy on the phone laughed and said why. I said to make it the best vacuum sander in the industry, they were the first and look like the last now. The problem with these sanders are they need to be soft start and random orbital or they are junk. Someone in China will come up with the idea and someone in America will say they stole the idea.
Not a great design but a great video from you!
My Dear Brother Dean, and I remember hearing many times in my life " It all looks good on paper. " These tool designers probably have never put their hands on a tool in the field.
Using sandpaper without holes for the dust collection system to work efficiently can't be good...
It's completely pointless to use the dust collection system on one of these. You have to upgrade the velcro pad to a harder one with holes and then use sanding mesh. Once you do that, you don't even need a mark. That's why that thing is filled with dust.
It doesn't matter what kind of bearing you have in the back, if you get that amount of dust inside the motor housing. Under-dimensioned front bearing combined with insufficient sealing, or maybe lacking rigidity of the housing, probably causes dust to reach the first bearing, then it all escalates.
Now when I watch the reassembly I can see that the housing along with the "cable cover extension" is simply just not sealed properly enough.
Nice work Dean. If the motor is up beside the pad then what is inside the clamshell that you didnt open?
You should be working in the engineering design department for one of these companies. They all should be knocking on your door.
Our company used the Makita for a year and half but they both kept jamming up and the one had to have two motor changes. We now have the Dewalt and have been using them for just over a year have had no problems with the one the other had to have a new hose connection put on thats it. The Dewalt is a lot more robust and takes more abuse and we're a Makita using company so that's saying something
Iv had a few dewalts I for repair now. And the feed back I get on them is the motors don't last. Or at least any one part of the motor unit. It's all one piece, cannot even change a bearing in them.
That was a surprisingly complex tool to fix.
Hi Dean, what brand are those side cutters you use, bent 45 deg I think. ? Thanks mate 🤙🏼🇦🇺
they are an old draper ergo set, but i dont think they are available anymore
@ ok thanks mate
Hey Dean can you fix another makita radio you make good video’s 😅
Just so you know, they sell a wire loom tape that is fabric based and is designed for high friction. If I can find my roll later I'll reply with the part number, but it would be much better than electrical tape.
Tesa 51608 wiring loom tape
Seems like they could have put a small tube in the handle for the wires to slide in. For the full extension I would just pop rivet the handle
Whats the silver flip bit youre always using called or where can i get one?
good electronics designers have been transferred. What was stopping them from copying the handle length fixation system from a similar system on a vacuum cleaner?)
That looked to be the wrong paper for the machine. You’d think a man would give their equipment an occasional clean out.
Having the motor so close to the sanding disc is just inviting dust to it.
time to get out the exploded parts diagram to see how it comes apart
That cable and cable sheath isn't thought through. I should have used a highly flexible fine patch wired silicone flat cable that can roll/fold within the cover, just like within a inkjet printer, crane, boom loader etc.
I assume that for a very long time the users were putting sanding disks not centred properly on that Velcro pad. People tend to use those wall sanders always on highest speed setting. So the bearing must give up at some point.
Not to mention it's not a machine for constant, long term use. It's rather for small jobs or as an auxiliary tool.
I'd guess it's just use, dust and a tiny bearing.
@@bumpkinrocks That definitely adds to bearing fatigue, but too much vibration from improperly installed sanding paper is the main cause.
That sander is destined for the trash pile....they don't use any vacuum with it at all.
If the plasterer has done their job properly then there is no need for this tool!
😂Yeah ok!🤦🏻♂️🚫🤣
You ever skimmed a whole wall ? A sander like this is really helpful
Dean UA-cam it someone on there will show you.
Rough as guts tool owners always wonder why their tools break all the time.
For a machine designed to make dust, that thing seems pretty poorly sealed.
Not having the correct sandpaper with the extraction holes would not have helped as more dust would have been kicked out the sides and been sucked into the motor and the bearing. Cheap sandpaper is false economy.
Exactly my thoughts too
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Would not have helped that much. The pad is not sealed against the dust extraction channel, and the air will flow in the the way with least restriction, which is from the the sides to behind the pad. Machines with sealed pads are by far better option as the guard is not needed at all. User has much better visibility and reach all the way to edges. Sadly more expensive and very few options in this type of machines. The Mirka/Hilti is probably the best option available.
After 15years of repairing of all sort of construction machines i would say the easiest and chepest way to keep machines in better condition would be to use proper vacuum cleaners, and to change the dustbags when they are clogged😅
@@EetuSalmi my Festool LHS 2 225 hasn't skipped a beat and doesn't release any dust.
Like everything keep your equipment clean nobody likes a dirty tool
Hi, Is there anyone here who can tell Me? I was buying used Milwaukee tools from a guy and noticed that the sticker side of each tool-where the serial number is written had holes (in fact on every tool he's selling.... ) But the tools are neat and clean & in working order (not tested on load). I would like to know what is the reason for this? Should I buy or not? Thanks!
it might be just his way of marking his tools so he knows they are his. iv seen some people mark their tools in very silly ways, even cutting an x or line at the back of the motor housing with a grinder, that holders the bearings.
@deandohertygreaser Thank you for the reply. Someone told me that when a company receives a tool under warranty claim, they replace it with a new one due to a quality defect. However, they intentionally drill holes in the old tool for identification purposes-so they can be identified as rejected tools.
But if that's true, you'd probably know about it as You're the tool repair expert. Well! Should I go ahead and buy those tools?
Great video Dean but what a crap design that lets that much dust in. It's obvious it will be used in the most dusty situation possible.
Just a thought, do you reckon they ran it without a vacuum. Looks like it maybe was designed to keep it clean and cool the motor!
Quand milwaukee a un bearing de finit c pas qula tite fin du monde y dit c dla marde pas possible mais quand c makita c pas grave
09:00 Ese diseño de cable extensible es una porquería.
En realidad, toda la maquina es un diseño apestoso.
Tanto desarmar para llegar al motor⁉️
Makita is trash🧐
Makita is garbage. All of their tools. I have a 25+ year old Porter cable drywall sander that has run thousands of board feet of drywall. Made in USA. Garbage from Asia makes the job harder.
I'm still surprised that all power tools get so abused that then small bearings manage to hold up even on sds hammers