I'm in the middle of rebuilding a TVS90. You saved me a lot of headache showing how the knob end of the oil pump inserted into the slot on the housing. I took the engine apart upside down and the pump rod fell out so I had no reference on how it went together. Thanks for posting.
finally, a video that shows the same type of governor that mine has! The actual governing action that my 2.5 hp tecumseh has is different from most in that the pivot that comes through the engine block's wall is directly moving the fly with the exact same linkage that the throttle cable uses. this gives the appearance that there is no governor because you can only see linkage going from the throttle cable to the fly. The governor is kind of hidden in that the pivot for that throttle arm is actually the governor! Its very clever on tecumseh's part because it removes two parts (the governor arm and linkage on the outside of the block).
That oil pump mechanism is brilliantly simple and it accomplishes so much with very few parts. I had no idea that these Tecumseh engines had a mechanical oil pump until I tore down myself. This pump actually forces oil up under pressure to lubricate the upper cam and crank journals. And it accomplishes this using just 2 additional parts and a cleverly designed camshaft. Too my knowledge none of the Briggs small engines have anything like this, just a basic splash lubrication system. Its no wonder the upper journals and seals often fail on the Briggs engines due to lack of lubrication.
Great demonstration and explanation! I was wondering about my Tec governor and what might be preventing it from increasing throttle when the engine dies. Maybe the internal lever is broken.
I have an issue that when I cause the Tecumseh engine to overspeeds at idle, it overpowers the governor spring and pulls the bufferfly on the carb into full open throttle away from the idle speed crack screw which is the exact opposite of what I think it should do. When the engine is at idle the governor spring and the butterfly on the carb hold the butterfly /carb against the idle crack screw so that when any load is applied the engine immediately stalls out instead of opening the throttle. As far as I can tell from the engine diagrams it looks like everything is set correctly but it obviously doesn't function as it should? I've tried adjusting the governor lever but it seems like it made no difference. Saw some comments of other people being able to fix this exact problem by "adjusting the governor" but what exactly they changed they never mention. The governor screw position? Governor screw tension? Governor arm positioning? Something else? There is a spring on the carb that holds the throttle to the idle position as well as the governor spring which also pulls the governor arm to the idle position.
Thank you for positing this video. Liked. My governor was frozen and I had no idea what it was connected to, so I opened the sump. That gasket is a tough to remove to replace. Now I know how the oil pump works, and where the oil plunger goes when I reassemble. The parts diagram is useless. You need to see actual video or photos of the insides. What is the previous video to this one?
Thanks for the info. My governor got stuck on my generator. Now it forces the throttle to almost full throttle without a load. Things sounds like it's revving past 10,000 rpm. The governor lever won't move at all, so I'm assuming the flywheel plate/collar is siezed or something. Gonna pull it apart this weekend and find out what went wrong.
Thank you! Now I know what I am circumventing when I rig a bungee cord to keep her wide open ! 😆 This winter I’ll break it down and find out what’s gumming up my weights and arm attenuator on my walk behind line trimmer. For now, it’ll be a screaming thistle Holocaust machine !
oil pump assembly was explained very well. But, what is that round unit with the blue part for and how does it line up with the rest of the Tecumseh oil process? Please adevise.
Interesting. I have a Tecumseh mower engine from the period just before the stopped production - about 12 years old now. I've been wondering how long it will last. It shows no sign of problems yet. This appears to be better than a simple "dipper" system. I've read of Techumseh mower engines lasting 25+ years. With this oiler I can see why, if they are maintained.
I agree, this is a pretty advanced oiler. I would guess as long as the oil was changed regularly it would run a very long time. The ones I see that are dead are usually dead from one of two causes: ran it without oil/low oil/contaminated oil etc., or hit something and bent the crank.
Just saw this. Excellent explanation. I have two good running Tecumseh engines on early 2000's Toro mowers; those engines get undeserved bad reviews imo. I think its because the carbs on them can be kinda ornery at times. But this oil pump system is quite advanced vs. the Briggs & Honda splash arrangements. Too bad that Tecumseh (the co.) went under.
Totally agree. These Tecumseh engines are very good engines. That oiling system is way ahead of Briggs and quite advanced for such a small motor. However, like you said, the carbs are what give them a bad name. They are more involved to clean and service. They have a "removable" emulsion tube with o-rings that go bad and can cause problems sometimes, and they have a finicky idle circuit that's hard to clean unless you know exactly how to do it. I also have seen way more undersized jets in the later Tecumseh carburetors than in Briggs carbs which cause a lot of surging problems.
@@billyb351 These days it doesn't pay to mess with a finicky carb. After disassembling and reassembling the original several times & never getting it to run right, I bought an aftermarket carb on ebay for $6.95 believe it or not. A set of OEM o-rings cost about that much. One year later the mower runs fine with the aftermarket unit.
@@billyb351 I watched an "Amateur hour" video and WOW he has no idea what he was doing, but the governor shaft appeared to be a Press Fit. By the way it feels on my case I'm betting a press fit with a vertical knurling pattern, like splines. Thank you again
You have your forces confused. Centripetal force is the pull TOWARDS the axis of rotation to keep a spinning object going in a circle. The governor uses centrifugal force of the fly weights that pull AWAY from the axis of rotation to move the governor in a direction that reduces throttle to maintain equilibrium.
I believe most people who read this post would consider their Techumseh engine to be a very good one. I love mine which is at least 20 years old and am thankful everyday that I am not having to fight with Briggs carbs.
Well done... Thanks for the Tecumseh Vertical Shaft Engine technical info. Concise and well explained.
I've seen oil slingers as part of the governor before but now I understand how these models work too. Thanks, very informative and to the point.
I'm in the middle of rebuilding a TVS90. You saved me a lot of headache showing how the knob end of the oil pump inserted into the slot on the housing. I took the engine apart upside down and the pump rod fell out so I had no reference on how it went together.
Thanks for posting.
finally, a video that shows the same type of governor that mine has! The actual governing action that my 2.5 hp tecumseh has is different from most in that the pivot that comes through the engine block's wall is directly moving the fly with the exact same linkage that the throttle cable uses. this gives the appearance that there is no governor because you can only see linkage going from the throttle cable to the fly. The governor is kind of hidden in that the pivot for that throttle arm is actually the governor! Its very clever on tecumseh's part because it removes two parts (the governor arm and linkage on the outside of the block).
That oil pump mechanism is brilliantly simple and it accomplishes so much with very few parts. I had no idea that these Tecumseh engines had a mechanical oil pump until I tore down myself. This pump actually forces oil up under pressure to lubricate the upper cam and crank journals. And it accomplishes this using just 2 additional parts and a cleverly designed camshaft. Too my knowledge none of the Briggs small engines have anything like this, just a basic splash lubrication system. Its no wonder the upper journals and seals often fail on the Briggs engines due to lack of lubrication.
Very helpful video. Informative and well explained. Definitely improved my knowledge. TY
Right on, love the video explained in detail
Thanks for the info, I love these engines
Good info, thanks.
Thanks. Good explanation.
good details. thanks😀
Good vid
That engine lubrication system was good, i had one Tecumseh engine with that system in 1990
I just modded my 15 year old tecumseh to be variable speed because I knew the pump could property lubricate it
Great demonstration and explanation! I was wondering about my Tec governor and what might be preventing it from increasing throttle when the engine dies. Maybe the internal lever is broken.
Great video thanks. What is that turquoise and yellow plastic piece venting to outside the engine?
I have an issue that when I cause the Tecumseh engine to overspeeds at idle, it overpowers the governor spring and pulls the bufferfly on the carb into full open throttle away from the idle speed crack screw which is the exact opposite of what I think it should do. When the engine is at idle the governor spring and the butterfly on the carb hold the butterfly /carb against the idle crack screw so that when any load is applied the engine immediately stalls out instead of opening the throttle. As far as I can tell from the engine diagrams it looks like everything is set correctly but it obviously doesn't function as it should? I've tried adjusting the governor lever but it seems like it made no difference. Saw some comments of other people being able to fix this exact problem by "adjusting the governor" but what exactly they changed they never mention. The governor screw position? Governor screw tension? Governor arm positioning? Something else? There is a spring on the carb that holds the throttle to the idle position as well as the governor spring which also pulls the governor arm to the idle position.
Thank you for positing this video. Liked.
My governor was frozen and I had no idea what it was connected to, so I opened the sump. That gasket is a tough to remove to replace.
Now I know how the oil pump works, and where the oil plunger goes when I reassemble.
The parts diagram is useless. You need to see actual video or photos of the insides.
What is the previous video to this one?
Thanks for the info. My governor got stuck on my generator. Now it forces the throttle to almost full throttle without a load. Things sounds like it's revving past 10,000 rpm. The governor lever won't move at all, so I'm assuming the flywheel plate/collar is siezed or something. Gonna pull it apart this weekend and find out what went wrong.
I got an oil leak through the oil deep stick, there is a plastic inside, did I put it wrong when I replaced the gasket?
Does the oil pump have to be installed on the camshaft a certain direction? I noticed it has a bevel on one side and not the other.
How does the Governor Rod (Part # 30589) attach to the Governor Gear Assembly (Part No. 30591) inside the motor?
so this governor safes the engine from high rpms by closing the throttle if it reaches a specific rpm?
Thank you! Now I know what I am circumventing when I rig a bungee cord to keep her wide open ! 😆
This winter I’ll break it down and find out what’s gumming up my weights and arm attenuator on my walk behind line trimmer. For now, it’ll be a screaming thistle Holocaust machine !
oil pump assembly was explained very well. But, what is that round unit with the blue part for and how does it line up with the rest of the Tecumseh oil process? Please adevise.
Interesting. I have a Tecumseh mower engine from the period just before the stopped production - about 12 years old now. I've been wondering how long it will last. It shows no sign of problems yet. This appears to be better than a simple "dipper" system. I've read of Techumseh mower engines lasting 25+ years. With this oiler I can see why, if they are maintained.
I agree, this is a pretty advanced oiler. I would guess as long as the oil was changed regularly it would run a very long time. The ones I see that are dead are usually dead from one of two causes: ran it without oil/low oil/contaminated oil etc., or hit something and bent the crank.
Thanks
Just saw this. Excellent explanation. I have two good running Tecumseh engines on early 2000's Toro mowers; those engines get undeserved bad reviews imo. I think its because the carbs on them can be kinda ornery at times. But this oil pump system is quite advanced vs. the Briggs & Honda splash arrangements. Too bad that Tecumseh (the co.) went under.
Totally agree. These Tecumseh engines are very good engines. That oiling system is way ahead of Briggs and quite advanced for such a small motor. However, like you said, the carbs are what give them a bad name. They are more involved to clean and service. They have a "removable" emulsion tube with o-rings that go bad and can cause problems sometimes, and they have a finicky idle circuit that's hard to clean unless you know exactly how to do it. I also have seen way more undersized jets in the later Tecumseh carburetors than in Briggs carbs which cause a lot of surging problems.
@@billyb351 These days it doesn't pay to mess with a finicky carb. After disassembling and reassembling the original several times & never getting it to run right, I bought an aftermarket carb on ebay for $6.95 believe it or not. A set of OEM o-rings cost about that much. One year later the mower runs fine with the aftermarket unit.
@@billyb351 thanks, dealing with that on a mower my son bought. Only pd 75 bucks for whole rig, I was thinking governer issue, but it maybe the carb
would you know how to remove and replace the govenor gear? mine is damaged
I don't think the gear by itself is a serviceable part. It always comes as an assembly with the centrifugal weights already attached.
@@billyb351 Is the Gear Shaft Screwed in or is it a press fit. I can See no circlips holding the Spool or gear on the shaft.
@@johnlocker9424 I believe it's a press fit. It's been a while since I've looked at one in detail, but I don't remember any screws.
@@billyb351 I watched an "Amateur hour" video and WOW he has no idea what he was doing, but the governor shaft appeared to be a Press Fit. By the way it feels on my case I'm betting a press fit with a vertical knurling pattern, like splines. Thank you again
I got a lawn mower and the governor arm spins freely doesn’t hit governor or anything so somethings broke it runs full throttle
Yup, governor is broken. You'll have to pull the motor apart to see what the problem is.
You have your forces confused. Centripetal force is the pull TOWARDS the axis of rotation to keep a spinning object going in a circle. The governor uses centrifugal force of the fly weights that pull AWAY from the axis of rotation to move the governor in a direction that reduces throttle to maintain equilibrium.
REO used the same type pump in the 50's
Interesting. So the design has been around for a while.
@@billyb351 I had never seen anything on a small engine except splash, and thought that REO was cool as ever.
@@billyb351 I had a '67 Craftsman mower with a 3HP Tecumseh engine which had this same system. Yes, it has been around for a while!
Techumseh is one great shit ,good that company goes to hell at not anymore cheat and screw people with theirs craps ....
I believe most people who read this post would consider their Techumseh engine to be a very good one. I love mine which is at least 20 years old and am thankful everyday that I am not having to fight with Briggs carbs.
@@curtflory7147old techumseh engines horisontal shaft on snow blowers is good ,from '70 is the best .But later ,they are tottaly mess ...