Very good info. I may have to attach my 60mm macro to see how much closer I can get beyond 1:1. I recommend the 40-150 kit lens and extension tubes for someone on a budget. I paid $135 all together. I agree the extension tubes works better than the close up lens. Stacking the 10 & 16mm tubes can be usable but depending on the angle of the light, the reflections coming off the inside of the tube can affect image quality. One of my friend had lined the extension tube with a felt material to prevent the reflection. I wouldn't do it but it works for him. Not only this is a cheaper solution than the 75mm, the 40-150mm has a closer minimum focus too.
@@ForsgardPeter That's good to have because I was a bit surprised how mine had a lot of reflection but it was very cheap. Perhaps if I spent $10 more maybe it wouldn't be that way.
Well, this was really a comprehensive video about macro photography, jampacked with lot's of useful tips and information. Narration and explanation are topnotch. Thanks for your continuous dedication for making us better photographers. Much appreciated...
Very good Peter, I have the 60mm f/2.8 and it's works well for portraits and techinical shots suchs a film and slide copying as well. Other inexpensive options are the Older Olympus Four Thirds lenses. 4/3 to M4/3 adaptors open the door to some great Leica 4/3 lenses and olympus Macro lenses such as the Zuiko 35mm f/3.5 E-ED Macro (1:1) lens. I paid about $30 usd for mine, and the 50mm f/2.0 Macro ED Zuiko, I paid about $75 usd and it's a very good Macro option.
Thank you. You are right, there are a lot of opportunities for macro. With an adapter you can mount almost any lens to your MFT-camera. I should have said that in the video.
@@ForsgardPeter Cool, I actually prefer M4/3 for macro as getting twice the depth of Field over full-frame 35mm is often a plus. Also, perhaps it might be worth a segment on older Four-Thirds lenses, as there are some good and very affordable options, especially with the 4/3 Olympus lenses. I've found that many of the Four-thirds lenses have a larger frame coverage, better edge sharpness and have less spherical distortion. Downsides are that autofocus is not fully compatible so focus can be slow but I some of the old Leica 4/3 lenses are exceptional such as the Panasonic Leica D Vario-Elmarit 14-50mm F2.8-3.5 ASPH Mega OIS. I also like the 11-22mm Olympus f/2.8 for an affordable wide zoom.
I recently purchased an Olympus OMD E-M10 Mark III with two kit lenses. You are right; I can take good close-ups but macro is out of the question. I have an old Nikon P6000 that I use for macro photos. I'm glad I kept it after all these years.
Excellent video! You are living up to your promise for 2020 to tell us more about techniques rather than ‘just’ Olympus gear. How does focus bracketing compare to a focussing rail?
Thank you. Yes trying to make more videos about photography this year. Images you get from Focus bracketing are meant to be used for Stacking.to increase the depth of Field. But actually you could use it also to be sure that you have a pin sharp image were you want it to be sharp. If you use it like that then it is quite close what you get using focus rail.
Thanks Peter! Maybe you could talk a bit more about the practical use of focus rails in the future: what you should look for when buying one; what and how to mount them to some sort of support etc.
@@ForsgardPeter, great that you liked the idea! Maybe you could include examples that cover working with the camera in different orientations (horizontal, vertical, at an angle) and what you might need in addition to the rail and the tripod 🙂
Hi Peter, another very informative and comprehensive video. Like you, I have the TG4 with the LG-1 light guide as part of my photo armoury. I find this works reasonably well for very close work but, when photographing insects with a bit more distance between camera and subject and the lens zoomed to the 100mm end, it is a bit weak. I've been thinking of getting the FD-1 light diffuser for these slightly longer types of shots - do you have a view on the FD-1 for macro work? Thanks.
I have a quite heavy tripod (overkill for MFT) and a video head. Then I have a Edelkrone Tilt Head and a Manfrotto 454 focusing rail. All of these are not necessary, but are a great help.
Thanks Peter! I remember reversing lenses back in the day on my film SLRs -- of course on modern digital cameras optically this still works, but you give up any automatic control over the focus, (power zoom) and aperture. On my Panasonic G85 I have used a cheap set of M4/3 extension tubes that carry all of the electrical contacts through, and they work OK.
Yes, I forgot to say that manual lenses are a bit better when reversing them. You have the aperture and focus control in the lens if you use a lens with MF Clutch.
Very nice video Peter. I would like to add one more technical thing (for nerds). Lens closest focusing distance is measured from the sensor and there is a special sign on almost every camera body indicating where the sensor is located. It is a smal circle with a line.
Thanks. Yes, you are right. I did not say that. The only indications was the arrow that showed the closest focusing distance the kit lens have. Thank you for bringing this fact up.
Great informative video Peter, I use the Olympus 60mm Macro lens with superb results, have you any guess work info on the new Olympus OMD E M1 Mk 3 for February launch yet ??????? Regards, Colin.
Hi Peter, Nice video again. Another tip maybe. Use the button at the front (EM1 MII) to see what is sharp by using less or more aperture. (I don't know what the button is called in English)
True 1-to-1 image size Macro is really only important for scientific or engineering work, where the slight distortion of close-focusing with an Olympus telephoto would matter. In other words, for creative artistic images, we don't really have to worry about using a true Macro lens. Indeed, many of the most famous professional M43 Macro photographers swear by the Olympus 40-150 PRO in close-up close-focusing use vs using a true Macro lens. The extra distance you get form using a telephoto lens means you won't disturb the subject you're photographing AND has the additional bonus that you're not so close to your subject that you're blocking available light. Personally, as a fellow professional photographer, I love taking the Olympus 40-150 PRO on photo walks, as I can then capture images from 150mm (300mm full frame equivalent) right down to extreme close-up. Rick Professional photographer in the UK
Hello Peter, it was a really nice film - I didn't know the bellows can be so effective. The only macro lens I have for my Olympus is the old Zuiko Digital 35mm 3.5 that I use with adapter and it works much better on my m43 camera than it did with my Four Thirds body. Its autofocus is very slow but it doesn't matter much in macro. The quality and magnification are great but only for still subjects. I prefer using the kit 40-150 with extension tubes (I have Chinese 10mm and 16mm) because 35mm is too little for insects. I tried other lenses too and the 40-150 was among the best, allowing me not to scare the subjects. And that's why I never even considered the 30mm macro lens, but I'm glad I found the 4/3 version for less than EUR 50. Until recently I never used flash for Macro photography but I discovered how much it helps and I began to like it once more - I can finally do good macro with closed aperture without always using the tripod. I also have a cheap Chinese macro "lens" for my phone and it works surprisingly well. I don't know if you ever tried it but it's a nice compact addition from time to time.
Peter Forsgård. It's an okay vid🙂. I do extreme macro stacks 4-36x magnification. The right way to calculate your magnification is to photograph a ruler horizontally! The number of millimetre in the picture you divide with the with of your sensor
I use my 1980s Nikon 55mm 2.8 ais micro lens on my Nikon D300s which is my everyday lens on my Nikon FE film camera. The D300s is a reduced sensor so the micro lens gives a 1.1 image.
This was a great video & I love the little figure you were shooting. I borrowed a 60mm f2.8 a while ago & I really like it for close up work outside. It's also good for regular shooting, but I'd rather the 75mm f1.8 for that. Indoors I use a Zeiss M42 macro bellows & the 135mm Super Dynarex lens. It's a great setup for some pretty fine work. Have not turned that lens around yet, as the two tab S55 bayonet mount adapter is nearly impossible to find.
I have not tried to use the bellows with a turned around lens yet. Have not found any adapters yet. When making this video I realised how good the 75mm f1.8 is with extension tubes. I will use that more in the future for macro.
This video yesterday inspired me to immediately take a photo of a flower sitting on our window ledge - best seen by the birds in the garden… And while you mention the 12-50mm lens, that remembered me that I do have this lens and could give it a try. In fact, compared to the 60mm and the old 50mm macro lenses, I can hardly tell a difference. I think that all other factors matter more. So the 12-50mm zoom is a really affordable macro lens! It even supports focus bracketing, is weather-sealed and in macro mode operates at a very practical focus length of 43mm. (30mm is too short for me, I didn't keep that lens therefor.) Sample pictures: flic.kr/s/aHsmL7NYZE One difference: The 12-50mm can't do 1:1 in mft terms, the smalles area width is 36mm - thus kind of "equivalent 1:1". Btw: The 12-50mm delivers very decent image quality in wide angle, but not so much on the telephoto end. Btw 2nd: the 12-40mm zoom lens is quite capable of close-up, too.
Glad that the video inspired you. The 12-50mm EZ zoom is a good macro lens. It does not actually if a photo is macro or not. If a close-up looks great it is good, that is the most important thing.
Using EM1 Mk 2 via Canon lens adapter Canon EF-S 60mm F2.8 macro lens for crop censor - very good results in Manual mode but lost Infinity - do not care! Preliminary stopped F=8.0
Hi Peter, I learned a lot from your videos. Thanks. As a beginner at macro photography I have a few questions. Were all the macro images (by different photographers) where you have the WHOLE subject ( example, a dragonfly) in focus are all stacked images? I find it impossible to get the whole subject in focus even when I close the aperture down. Should I use different magnification (to capture the whole subject) depending on the size of the subject? I hope that makes sense. Does it always have to be shot at 1:1 for the image to be considered macro? Thanks.
Depth of Field is the biggest problem when shooting macro or the lack of it. Some might be focus stacked. I do not think magnification itself is the issue. Yes, macro is 1:1, but close-ups are just as good. It all depends on the image itself.
Thanks Peter, very interesting, I hadn't heard of the bellows extension before. I used to use the Olympus 45 f1.8 and MCON-P02 macro adapter. It is an excellent combination, I preferred it to extension tubes. A year ago I got the Olympus 60mm macro and I have taken loads of photos with it. I love that lens. I mostly use natural light, I need to learn more about flash. I am looking forward to your next video on macro :-)
@@ForsgardPeter I used to use the MCON-P02 all the time. It made my 45mm more useful. I could easily take it off for longer shots. I never noticed any drop in quality, I got some very crisp shots out of that converter. Of course the 45mm is such a great lens in any case. I mostly take photos of plants and flowers, some insects when I can. So close ups mostly, some true macro. My photos (mostly 60mm now) on Instagram @mgversion1. I wrote about my experience with the MCON-P02 on my blog back in 2015, at mgxp.com if you or anyone is interested :-)
Thumbs up Peter for a whirlwind tour through Olympus’s capability for macro using legacy lenses plus adapters. Despite its stature and lack of weather sealing the 30mm m.zuiko offers 2.5:1 while the 60mm can only offer 2:1. This lens is perfect for crawling insects and at 128g is not going break anybody’s back. It can often be found on eBay for £100. An alternative to this bellows (the actual bellows are leather) for the vegan photographers is the Olympus 65-116 mechanical bellows. Finally I’d just like to add that while not strictly macro, the 1240 has a sub macro capability of 0.6:1 which is not to be sniffed at since the feted OM Zuiko 50mm f3.5 macro lens is only 0.5:1. I was fortunate to have a photo published in a uk national daily paper last September utilising this lens on an E-M5 Mark II body.
Hi, and great video! Is it an idea to use the extension tubes on the Olympus 40 - 150 Pro? I have 12-40 Pro to. I can see they talk about it below in the comments.
Sure is, a long lens is good for macro. You can be further away from the subject. Remember to attach the combo to a tripod from the tripid collar that the lens 40-150 has. Otherwise the weight of the lens could be too mach for the lens mounts.
Question for all of you. I have a em1 mk1 and Im going to buy either a em1 mk2 or em5 mk iii both $999 the em1 mkii is used but mint 5,000 clicks. Which should I buy? I'm a event and school photographer.
Peter, i tried the 12-100 with rings for slide and negative digitalization and the result was lousy, images getting very unsharp outside the center. Did i do anything wrong? Bought the 60 mm makro and that is super, will sell it after completed digitalization since bugs dont interest me. For digitizing various sizes of old negatives and magazines full of positives the camera is the fastest and best quality method. Again, anything I did wrong with the ring and the 12-100 with very unsharp outer areas? Thanks Johannes
Not sure what went wrong. It is a very sharp lens. Did you use the 12mm end and focused very close? There might not be enough DOF. That might be the case.
So the Extension Tubes only reduce the minimal focus distance? Using this in the 30 mm macro (i got this one) will let me come closer from 9 cm to let's say 3cm?
I love the 12-50 mm Lens as "always on"! With the macro function ist he best "Kit-Lens" EVER! I can not understand, WHY Olympus killed this magnificent lens! WHAT A FAIL!!!
3:15 that just ridiculous... why would you reverse a lens, when you are shooting at around 1:1 magnification? Reversing the lense does nothing for macro. Its still not a macro lens. People need to actually understand what they are doing, and not just follow what everyone else is doing. Only way you could benefit from reversing a normal shooting lens, shooting at around the distance that the sensor would be.. basically replacing the sensor with the subject. And then having the camera sensor where the subject used to be in normal shooting .. so like 5m away from the lens :)
You are fast becoming one of the most trusted voices around. Always informative, this presentation was especially so. Many thanks.
Thank you very much for your kind words.
Awesome explanation. You are very knowledgeable, present in a simple manner and make it easy to understand. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great photography tips
Thank you.
Very informative video, Peter, Thank you.
Thanks.
Just brilliant! Thank you Peter for this very thorough and exhaustive guide.
Fantastic informative video. Thank you so much
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video! I like how you give suggestions for people who may not have a macro lens.
Glad it was helpful!
Very good info. I may have to attach my 60mm macro to see how much closer I can get beyond 1:1. I recommend the 40-150 kit lens and extension tubes for someone on a budget. I paid $135 all together. I agree the extension tubes works better than the close up lens. Stacking the 10 & 16mm tubes can be usable but depending on the angle of the light, the reflections coming off the inside of the tube can affect image quality. One of my friend had lined the extension tube with a felt material to prevent the reflection. I wouldn't do it but it works for him. Not only this is a cheaper solution than the 75mm, the 40-150mm has a closer minimum focus too.
The Kooka extension tubes that I have have some black velvet inside to minimise the reflections.
@@ForsgardPeter That's good to have because I was a bit surprised how mine had a lot of reflection but it was very cheap. Perhaps if I spent $10 more maybe it wouldn't be that way.
Well, this was really a comprehensive video about macro photography, jampacked with lot's of useful tips and information. Narration and explanation are topnotch. Thanks for your continuous dedication for making us better photographers. Much appreciated...
Thank you.
Very good Peter, I have the 60mm f/2.8 and it's works well for portraits and techinical shots suchs a film and slide copying as well. Other inexpensive options are the Older Olympus Four Thirds lenses. 4/3 to M4/3 adaptors open the door to some great Leica 4/3 lenses and olympus Macro lenses such as the Zuiko 35mm f/3.5 E-ED Macro (1:1) lens. I paid about $30 usd for mine, and the 50mm f/2.0 Macro ED Zuiko, I paid about $75 usd and it's a very good Macro option.
Thank you. You are right, there are a lot of opportunities for macro. With an adapter you can mount almost any lens to your MFT-camera. I should have said that in the video.
@@ForsgardPeter Cool, I actually prefer M4/3 for macro as getting twice the depth of Field over full-frame 35mm is often a plus. Also, perhaps it might be worth a segment on older Four-Thirds lenses, as there are some good and very affordable options, especially with the 4/3 Olympus lenses. I've found that many of the Four-thirds lenses have a larger frame coverage, better edge sharpness and have less spherical distortion. Downsides are that autofocus is not fully compatible so focus can be slow but I some of the old Leica 4/3 lenses are exceptional such as the Panasonic Leica D Vario-Elmarit 14-50mm F2.8-3.5 ASPH Mega OIS. I also like the 11-22mm Olympus f/2.8 for an affordable wide zoom.
I recently purchased an Olympus OMD E-M10 Mark III with two kit lenses. You are right; I can take good close-ups but macro is out of the question. I have an old Nikon P6000 that I use for macro photos. I'm glad I kept it after all these years.
Great video, I enjoyed it.
Glad to hear it!
Super great video on macro photography.
Thank you.
that was awesome. thx
Thank you.
Excellent video! You are living up to your promise for 2020 to tell us more about techniques rather than ‘just’ Olympus gear. How does focus bracketing compare to a focussing rail?
Thank you. Yes trying to make more videos about photography this year. Images you get from Focus bracketing are meant to be used for Stacking.to increase the depth of Field. But actually you could use it also to be sure that you have a pin sharp image were you want it to be sharp. If you use it like that then it is quite close what you get using focus rail.
Very useful video!
Thank you.
Thanks Peter! Maybe you could talk a bit more about the practical use of focus rails in the future: what you should look for when buying one; what and how to mount them to some sort of support etc.
Good idea, I will write that down. Thanks.
@@ForsgardPeter, great that you liked the idea! Maybe you could include examples that cover working with the camera in different orientations (horizontal, vertical, at an angle) and what you might need in addition to the rail and the tripod 🙂
Thanks I will consider those too.
Hi Peter, another very informative and comprehensive video. Like you, I have the TG4 with the LG-1 light guide as part of my photo armoury. I find this works reasonably well for very close work but, when photographing insects with a bit more distance between camera and subject and the lens zoomed to the 100mm end, it is a bit weak. I've been thinking of getting the FD-1 light diffuser for these slightly longer types of shots - do you have a view on the FD-1 for macro work? Thanks.
FD-1 uses flash and the closesta focusing distance is 2cm. With LG-1 you can to 1cm. I prefer the LG-1.
Nice video, thank you
Good tips. I’m curious about your tripod & head kit for macro? Any thoughts or suggestions coming for macro work? Thanks!
I have a quite heavy tripod (overkill for MFT) and a video head. Then I have a Edelkrone Tilt Head and a Manfrotto 454 focusing rail. All of these are not necessary, but are a great help.
Thanks Peter! I remember reversing lenses back in the day on my film SLRs -- of course on modern digital cameras optically this still works, but you give up any automatic control over the focus, (power zoom) and aperture. On my Panasonic G85 I have used a cheap set of M4/3 extension tubes that carry all of the electrical contacts through, and they work OK.
Yes, I forgot to say that manual lenses are a bit better when reversing them. You have the aperture and focus control in the lens if you use a lens with MF Clutch.
Very nice video Peter. I would like to add one more technical thing (for nerds). Lens closest focusing distance is measured from the sensor and there is a special sign on almost every camera body indicating where the sensor is located. It is a smal circle with a line.
Thanks. Yes, you are right. I did not say that. The only indications was the arrow that showed the closest focusing distance the kit lens have. Thank you for bringing this fact up.
Great informative video Peter, I use the Olympus 60mm Macro lens with superb results, have you any guess work info on the new Olympus OMD E M1 Mk 3 for February launch yet ??????? Regards, Colin.
Thank you. Unfortunately I do not have guesses about any new cameras.
Hi Peter,
Nice video again. Another tip maybe. Use the button at the front (EM1 MII) to see what is sharp by using less or more aperture. (I don't know what the button is called in English)
True, that button is called Preview button.
True 1-to-1 image size Macro is really only important for scientific or engineering work, where the slight distortion of close-focusing with an Olympus telephoto would matter. In other words, for creative artistic images, we don't really have to worry about using a true Macro lens. Indeed, many of the most famous professional M43 Macro photographers swear by the Olympus 40-150 PRO in close-up close-focusing use vs using a true Macro lens. The extra distance you get form using a telephoto lens means you won't disturb the subject you're photographing AND has the additional bonus that you're not so close to your subject that you're blocking available light.
Personally, as a fellow professional photographer, I love taking the Olympus 40-150 PRO on photo walks, as I can then capture images from 150mm (300mm full frame equivalent) right down to extreme close-up.
Rick
Professional photographer in the UK
Hello Peter, it was a really nice film - I didn't know the bellows can be so effective. The only macro lens I have for my Olympus is the old Zuiko Digital 35mm 3.5 that I use with adapter and it works much better on my m43 camera than it did with my Four Thirds body. Its autofocus is very slow but it doesn't matter much in macro. The quality and magnification are great but only for still subjects. I prefer using the kit 40-150 with extension tubes (I have Chinese 10mm and 16mm) because 35mm is too little for insects. I tried other lenses too and the 40-150 was among the best, allowing me not to scare the subjects. And that's why I never even considered the 30mm macro lens, but I'm glad I found the 4/3 version for less than EUR 50. Until recently I never used flash for Macro photography but I discovered how much it helps and I began to like it once more - I can finally do good macro with closed aperture without always using the tripod. I also have a cheap Chinese macro "lens" for my phone and it works surprisingly well. I don't know if you ever tried it but it's a nice compact addition from time to time.
Thank you and thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences on macro photography.
How do you reverse MFT lens?
Really enjoyed the video.
There are revers rings available.
Thanks for that informative video Peter
Thanks!
Great, just what I wanted after watching your coffee bean macro video.
Great!
Peter Forsgård.
It's an okay vid🙂. I do extreme macro stacks 4-36x magnification. The right way to calculate your magnification is to photograph a ruler horizontally! The number of millimetre in the picture you divide with the with of your sensor
Thanks for the info!
I use my 1980s Nikon 55mm 2.8 ais micro lens on my Nikon D300s which is my everyday lens on my Nikon FE film camera. The D300s is a reduced sensor so the micro lens gives a 1.1 image.
Very helpful! Thank you!
This was a great video & I love the little figure you were shooting. I borrowed a 60mm f2.8 a while ago & I really like it for close up work outside. It's also good for regular shooting, but I'd rather the 75mm f1.8 for that. Indoors I use a Zeiss M42 macro bellows & the 135mm Super Dynarex lens. It's a great setup for some pretty fine work. Have not turned that lens around yet, as the two tab S55 bayonet mount adapter is nearly impossible to find.
I have not tried to use the bellows with a turned around lens yet. Have not found any adapters yet. When making this video I realised how good the 75mm f1.8 is with extension tubes. I will use that more in the future for macro.
This video yesterday inspired me to immediately take a photo of a flower sitting on our window ledge - best seen by the birds in the garden… And while you mention the 12-50mm lens, that remembered me that I do have this lens and could give it a try. In fact, compared to the 60mm and the old 50mm macro lenses, I can hardly tell a difference. I think that all other factors matter more. So the 12-50mm zoom is a really affordable macro lens! It even supports focus bracketing, is weather-sealed and in macro mode operates at a very practical focus length of 43mm. (30mm is too short for me, I didn't keep that lens therefor.)
Sample pictures: flic.kr/s/aHsmL7NYZE
One difference: The 12-50mm can't do 1:1 in mft terms, the smalles area width is 36mm - thus kind of "equivalent 1:1". Btw: The 12-50mm delivers very decent image quality in wide angle, but not so much on the telephoto end.
Btw 2nd: the 12-40mm zoom lens is quite capable of close-up, too.
Glad that the video inspired you. The 12-50mm EZ zoom is a good macro lens. It does not actually if a photo is macro or not. If a close-up looks great it is good, that is the most important thing.
I have an Olympus auto macro 50mm f3.5 lens for the Om series with an adapter to m 4/3 & it is cheap to buy & works well.
That is something I need to try to find, a OM-series macro lensthat is in good shape.
Using EM1 Mk 2 via Canon lens adapter Canon EF-S 60mm F2.8 macro lens for crop censor - very good results in Manual mode but lost Infinity - do not care! Preliminary stopped F=8.0
yep - you may control F aperture by Canon body in manual mode and remove the lens before sw off the camera/ Thus Aperture remains at preset level
Hi Peter, I learned a lot from your videos. Thanks. As a beginner at macro photography I have a few questions. Were all the macro images (by different photographers) where you have the WHOLE subject ( example, a dragonfly) in focus are all stacked images? I find it impossible to get the whole subject in focus even when I close the aperture down. Should I use different magnification (to capture the whole subject) depending on the size of the subject? I hope that makes sense. Does it always have to be shot at 1:1 for the image to be considered macro? Thanks.
Depth of Field is the biggest problem when shooting macro or the lack of it.
Some might be focus stacked. I do not think magnification itself is the issue.
Yes, macro is 1:1, but close-ups are just as good. It all depends on the image itself.
Thanks Peter, very interesting, I hadn't heard of the bellows extension before. I used to use the Olympus 45 f1.8 and MCON-P02 macro adapter. It is an excellent combination, I preferred it to extension tubes. A year ago I got the Olympus 60mm macro and I have taken loads of photos with it. I love that lens. I mostly use natural light, I need to learn more about flash. I am looking forward to your next video on macro :-)
Bellows are a bit special and not very common. Do you use your MCON-P02 at all? What are your subjects in macro?
@@ForsgardPeter I used to use the MCON-P02 all the time. It made my 45mm more useful. I could easily take it off for longer shots. I never noticed any drop in quality, I got some very crisp shots out of that converter. Of course the 45mm is such a great lens in any case. I mostly take photos of plants and flowers, some insects when I can. So close ups mostly, some true macro. My photos (mostly 60mm now) on Instagram @mgversion1. I wrote about my experience with the MCON-P02 on my blog back in 2015, at mgxp.com if you or anyone is interested :-)
MCON-P02 article here mgxp.blogspot.com/2015/09/olympus-mcon-p02-macro-converter.html?m=1
Thumbs up Peter for a whirlwind tour through Olympus’s capability for macro using legacy lenses plus adapters.
Despite its stature and lack of weather sealing the 30mm m.zuiko offers 2.5:1 while the 60mm can only offer 2:1. This lens is perfect for crawling insects and at 128g is not going break anybody’s back. It can often be found on eBay for £100.
An alternative to this bellows (the actual bellows are leather) for the vegan photographers is the Olympus 65-116 mechanical bellows.
Finally I’d just like to add that while not strictly macro, the 1240 has a sub macro capability of 0.6:1 which is not to be sniffed at since the feted OM Zuiko 50mm f3.5 macro lens is only 0.5:1.
I was fortunate to have a photo published in a uk national daily paper last September utilising this lens on an E-M5 Mark II body.
How can it be good for insects with just 30mm? Anything alive runs away when you get too close. 60mm is much more superior.
Thanks.
Mateusz Wnuk I speak from experience while your comment is pure conjecture.
Mateusz Wnuk have you ever seen a caterpillar run? LOL 😂
@@catrionathomson8981 I speak from experience, I have a 35mm macro.
Kiitos Peter ,I an very interested.**
Ole hyvä!
AND i have a question pleas! When yiu use the retro-ring HOW CAN YOU CHANGE THE APPERTURE? THANKS for answer! WOLF
With the aperture ring on the lens.
@@ForsgardPeter Olympus has NO aperture ring on the mft lenses! Is your tip only for OLD OM Lenses?
Hi, and great video! Is it an idea to use the extension tubes on the Olympus 40 - 150 Pro? I have 12-40 Pro to. I can see they talk about it below in the comments.
Sure is, a long lens is good for macro. You can be further away from the subject. Remember to attach the combo to a tripod from the tripid collar that the lens 40-150 has. Otherwise the weight of the lens could be too mach for the lens mounts.
Yes, the 40-150 PRO is an excellent extreme close-up lens.
Rick - professional photographer
No Bad Language :) 4/3 sensor are excellent for macro everything is x2 :) equivalent focal length .
Thanks!
Hi Peter. Can you compare Laowa 17mm 1.8 mft vs Olympus 17mm 1.8 ?
I could if I can get a hold of the Laowa. Lets see what I can do.
Question for all of you.
I have a em1 mk1 and Im going to buy either a em1 mk2 or em5 mk iii both $999 the em1 mkii is used but mint 5,000 clicks.
Which should I buy? I'm a event and school photographer.
That is a hard one. Have you watch my video about those two cameras? ua-cam.com/video/zjPTGJ_lAkE/v-deo.html
Peter, i tried the 12-100 with rings for slide and negative digitalization and the result was lousy, images getting very unsharp outside the center. Did i do anything wrong? Bought the 60 mm makro and that is super, will sell it after completed digitalization since bugs dont interest me. For digitizing various sizes of old negatives and magazines full of positives the camera is the fastest and best quality method. Again, anything I did wrong with the ring and the 12-100 with very unsharp outer areas? Thanks Johannes
Not sure what went wrong. It is a very sharp lens. Did you use the 12mm end and focused very close? There might not be enough DOF. That might be the case.
good morning to Finland from south Germany. - used 100mm and approx 25cm
Sounds weird. Maybe the lens should get checked?
without the rings doing perfect. Thanks anyhow, have the 60 mm makro now.
So the Extension Tubes only reduce the minimal focus distance? Using this in the 30 mm macro (i got this one) will let me come closer from 9 cm to let's say 3cm?
By the way the 30 mm macro ist also a very nice lense for portraits. So it is definitly not only for beginners in macro photography.
Yes, the extension Tubes work that way. You are right 30mm can be used for portraits also.
Fab B. The minimum focussing distance is measured from the sensor not the front of the lens.
Does the 30mm Macro lens not provide a 2:1 magnification ?
Yes, it is actually 2.5:1.
👍
I love the 12-50 mm Lens as "always on"! With the macro function ist he best "Kit-Lens" EVER!
I can not understand, WHY Olympus killed this magnificent lens! WHAT A FAIL!!!
I know, the 12-50mm lens is a good lens.
3:15 that just ridiculous... why would you reverse a lens, when you are shooting at around 1:1 magnification? Reversing the lense does nothing for macro. Its still not a macro lens. People need to actually understand what they are doing, and not just follow what everyone else is doing.
Only way you could benefit from reversing a normal shooting lens, shooting at around the distance that the sensor would be.. basically replacing the sensor with the subject. And then having the camera sensor where the subject used to be in normal shooting .. so like 5m away from the lens :)
I no it is not a macro lens, I know. It is still a good way to shoot macro/close-ups without buying any new gear. The results are fun.