A very useful video! Very hard to find good Stihl repair videos on here! Is there a general procedure for adjusting all their 2 cycle valves? Crankshaft position? universal gauge?
I was looking for a lightweight blower for my deck. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxgioZQl3J5wPGAeDINzbieKbT5qomSEx3 There are some huge trees around my house and the leaves and pods drop all over my deck. Having to move furniture around to sweep has become too big a chore. This blower was the answer. It is light enough for this 70yr old lady and powerful enough to blow all the tree droppings off my rather large deck. Thank you B&D. Be aware the cord is not included. I use a 3 prong outdoor cord 25' cord for my 12' x 20' deck. The cord retainer works very well, but don't try to pass the plug through it. That is NOT how it works. You just have to loop the cord and it works great. One of my best purchases. Very happy.
Thank you ! I had a hard pull with both my BR600 and FS91 that are near 4 years old I went ahead with the adjustment as you shown here and the 4MIX valves are set correct now all is good! Like new thanks again
Excellent video! I just bought a new BR600 Magnum for use around the house blowing leaves on approx. 1/2 to 3/4 acres. I book marked this video for future viewing. Thanks for posting this video.....................
Thanks for this video, my BR600 would sometimes act like it didn't want to reach wide open throttle when I squeezed the trigger even after adjusting the mixture screws on the carburetor. After watching your video I checked the valves and it seems they were a little on the tight side, couldn't get my feeler gauge in there at all. I just modified a .004 feeler gauge, cut it thin on the end to fit.
My stihl training course told me to double the exhaust valve setting to .020 , and it’s been way better on exhaust valve life. That extra time it gets to cool off on the valve seat is better in the long run 👍
Gold school training? Did they charge that. The valve feller gauge I get from stihl is .010mm which crosses over to about. 004 std. Crazy stihl engineers could have changed it though. :)
Hi...I wonder if please you could help me? I am in UK I have a Stihl 600 magnum blower...4 years old...been great last used it about March this year now...it will not start...nothing happening at all! plug adjustment is OK full fuel tank...new fuel air filter is clean whatever I do , it just will not ignite! anything you can help me with I would be really grateful I am on GRHengland if you can help thanks a lot!!!
Try putting a teaspoon of mixed fuel down the spark plug hole. Reassemble and pull the cord with no choke and trigger locked in full wide open position. If it starts and dies you have a faulty fuel system. This would mean you would have to check your war fuel lines fuel filter and carburetor. If it won't start still then check for spark or timing issue.
My pull cord is hard to pull, but it does pull. I removed the spark plug it was very easy and free after that. Does this indicate a valve adjustment? A few forums have indicated as such.
That is correct! The decompression knob on the cam is not hitting the valves because they are too loose. After you adjust the valves it will pull like new again.
@@shananigans1179 one more thing. (I got the blower for $75 at a flea market) there are leaks from multiple places it seems. It's covered in grime. Gonna clean it. Would you suspect valve cover? Or something else? It is from top to bottom. But also reaches the left side where the carb is. I'm thinking the fuel like is loose and leaking too,
Also upon taking off the orange cover , I had 3 nuts fall out. Any idea where they go? They look like backing nuts to the ones I removed for the cover or something but I'm not sure they're supposed to be completely loose like that
The pieces that feel out are probably the spacers that go in the recoil holes. The seal behind the fly wheel is probably leaking. Look at the bottom of the crankcase and make sure all the bolts are still in it. I see them come loose often. Fuel line could have a home in it but it could also be a tank vent leaking. Also check and make sure the crank shaft bearings are tight still. :) Good luck! :)
+Curtis Brown Stihl recommends that you check them after the first 139 hours, and then as needed after that. If you still don't have full power after installing a new air fitter, cleaning the exhaust screen and port, and making sure your carb is adjusted properly, then valves may be your problem. I check them every time I service someone's machine. It's an easy thing to do and more often then not they are out.
I guess it could be but usually on these 4 stroke units they don't get plugged up too often. At least in my area. :) That is a great suggestion though!
My BR550 wants to “diesel” when I turn it off using the throttle control handle. I hope you know what that means as it may be a local term that means it sputters and chugs for 5-10 seconds before the engine finally dies. Do you have any idea what may be causing this. This video is excellent. Very concise and to the point. Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise with us.
Thanks. As for your problem I would look at the carburetor, seals or maybe the timing. I had a wierd one the other day where the flywheel kid had sheared and it was doing the same thing. I guess I should ask what have you tried already? :)
@@shananigans1179 the carb seems fine. No obvious leaking from the seals. I’m not sure how to check or adjust the timing. Do you have a video on that? Again, thanks for your time.
To check the timing just put the cylinder on top dead center and see where the magnets are lining up to the ignition coil. They should be pretty close to it. The other thing you can do is take the bolt off of the flywheel and pop the flywheel off and look and see if the sheer key is still intact. unfortunately it's integrated into the flywheel so if it is sheared off you will have to get a new or good used flywheel.
Turn the flywheel until it isn’t tight and the valves don’t move, line up S on Mark in video. Don’t think you went around enough with flywheel. Usually .06” feeler gauge. Better to uses hand torx screwdriver to get torx bolts loose and tighten last bit to snug. Using battery drill like you did can strip the bolts. Just saying.
Is it a Stihl trimmer? If so they usually use a molded fuel line that you just pop in and out with a screwdriver. make sure you round the screwdriver edges off so nothing's really sharp.
An old mechanic that I apprenticed under in the late 1960 always commented "when you can hear them they're working". My old beetle clattered happily along for quite a few years.
I have a new BR 800 CE I bought before Christmas and it doesn't seem to rev up as high as when I first got it. It actually started to go downhill after my second tank of fuel. I have now run 5 tanks through it and it has dropped noticeably in power. Could this be the problem? It's pretty new yet to be a valve adjustment isn't it?
I would check the air filter and maybe try a simple carb adjustment first. That does seem to be to quick to be a valve adjustment. That being said it wouldn't surprise me if they were off just a little. A quick way to tell if the valves need to be adjusted is if when you pull the starter rope out slowly does it feel nice and smooth? If it does then you're good. If it feels like you're pulling an old 2 stroke then your decompression valve isn't engaging , making it a harder jerky type pull.
Shananigans I took it in today under warranty. The tech did a compression test and said it was at 50.... whatever that means. He said he adjusted the valves and retested and it passed with flying colours. I would not have thought valves would need adjustment after only 2 tanks of fuel. Unless he was full of it?
How do I determine which is the intake top dead center? If I go around with the magneto and line up the S with the coil hold down screw, valves are loose. I go around one more time and align the S to the coil hold down screw and the valves are tight. When do you adjust?
Could valves be out of adjustment if motor idles fine but wants to sputter out when on the throttle? I tried adjusting the H carb, but just can’t get the throttle to stick.
@@shananigans1179 I just bought the unit off of market place. The previous owner had it serviced every year. There’s a blue paint marker beside the valve cover. Not on the cover itself. I’m checking right now to see if I can order the feeler gauge and service kit off of Amazon.
I adjust the valves on almost every one. The cam gear is plastic to it wears quickly. What happens if you manually move the choke back and forth while you try to throttle it up?
I have a BR 600 backpack blower that won't start. I replaced the fuel filter, air filter and put new mixed gasoline in there and sparkplug is working. What should I try next?
Did an overhaul on an old br600 magnum. Had a horrible carb leak with zero fuel going to the engine. Ended up being the carb needle lever being bent out of spec. Wasnt lifting the needle off the seat at all. A little tweak with a gasket kit got it screaming Thing runs like a pissed off ape now. The throttle response is better than new. I think im the only person that does valve adjustments in the area. The stihl dealers dont even bother.
+Isaac Sundberg I will see if I can find one to fix. If it's the wire in thinking of it should be there to dissipate the static that's builds up so it doesn't shock you.
I know this is an older video, but ive done a valve adjustment and still hard to pull, doesnt want to run, and making a clanking noise. Any ideas where to look next?
Making noise is never good. Remoce the recoil and see if you get any up and down play on the flywheel. Look for any bolts that may have broke holding the bottom case half together or cranckshaft bearings that may be worn.
@Shananigans thanks for the quick reply. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the flywheel is still hard to spin with the spark plug removed, that should eliminate valve adjustment as the issue?
If you have the work plug out and it's still hard to pull over it sounds like someone may have ran the machine without oil mixed in the gas. 9 times out to 10:00. This will seize the bearing on the connecting rod and will be hard to pull over.
@Shananigans that would definitely make sense given the time of year it seized up. Lots of part timers in the winter! Thanks for the great info and quick replies. Appreciate it!
Check the valves. Check the blower fan. If those are good it might be the lower bearings on the crank. Check that no bolts are loose on the crankcase as well. That should give you a few common things to look at. :)
Can anyone tell me where I can get screws for the large cover? Everything went well replacing the carb and doing the valves. putting on the final large cover I noticed I only had two of the 4 coarse 3/4" screws. In the process of looking for the lost ones I lost another one. I swear these things go into some kind of alternate plane of existence.
+martin danburen 9074 477 4132 is the part number for the screw. The description says the screw is IS-P5x18 self tapping screw. Any Stihl dealer in your area should have them.
Hello! Amazing video. I have a BR800 Magnum blower. Having a hard time adjusting carburetor. Stihl recommend L 1 1/2. H 3 1/2 My blowers do not work under those specs. I have L 3 turns and H 4 1/2 it work good. Having the hardest time keeping power and bogs down. I have not done valve adjustments in months with daily use of the blower. Can that make it loose power? And therefore have trouble adjusting carburetor?
It sounds like you have an air leak that much more fuel mean air is getting into the engine where it shouldn't. Take a can of carb cleaner or starting fluid it something and spray it around the seals and lower crank case area. If it changes rpms then you know what you get to do. :)
@@shananigans1179 I have done it.. problem is carburetor. I adjust it L to where works great in idle then H where has solid performance .. turn it off go on to the next place and bogs down until I turn it down a bit. Then next place same thing I have tried for days to find that right spot. Does “L” and “H” have to be at one point to make them work fine. Use it in the morning but if turned off and back on un 15-20 minutes takes a lot of time to warm up again.. before it was just cold in the morning. After that no problems during the whole day... at this point I want to replace carburetor but blower is 4 months old. Stihl BR800 magnum. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
It really sounds like an air leak to me. Do you see any oil residue around the bottom or seals? Also if the gasket is broken on the valve cover that could let air into the system. One other thing to do would be to check the bearings. To check them take the recoil off and grab the flywheel and and see if you can move it up and down. If you have any play at all in it then you might need a shirt block which should be covered under warranty. (It wouldn't be the first one that's had problems so soon)
@@shananigans1179 Hey!!! Wanted to share some good news. I own 2 Stihl blowers BR800. Turns out after, adjusting valves, carburetor being a night mare for 2 weeks not being able to find that spot. This morning I open the fuel cap and heard that power come. So got my attention and that is why it was working some times and never being able to adjust. Apparently is not venting. I adjusted carburetor with cap loose and work great. Now looks like I need to replace that vent (have no idead how, tried popping it out and half of it only came out) it is strange how both blowers are doing the sane thing.
That's great you found the problem. It's been ages since I have done anything with those breather assy things. They should just pop out of I remember right. Good luck and thanks for letting me know what you found. :)
I know stihl says to check after 139 hours but I just bought a br600 this year for home use for leaf cleanup I’ve only put 3-4 hours on it and will probably average around 20 hours a year in your opinion how often should I check the valves? I was thinking every over season maybe longer but definitely not the 6-7 years it would take me to get to 139 hours
You can tell when the valves really need to be adjusted when you go to pull on the rope and you can really fill the compression stroke. It's because as the exhaust valve loosens up it is no longer pushed up by the decompression mechanism on the gear. So if you wanted to wait until it was just hard to pull over and then adjust it you could do that. if you wanted to try and stay on top of things every other year would probably be fine. Just pay attention to the pull and compression stroke. :)
My blower was starting to make slight screeching noise - I thought maybe a leaf was caught in air intake area-then after a few minutes engine started to lose power. I shut it down. But now it turns over hard when I pull cord and won’t start. Advice?
That sounds like a bearing is going out in the crank case. Just start tearing things apart into you find what is causing the binding. :) rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223141103259
Try putting a little gas first into the disk plug hole, putting the spark plug back in and starting it. If it starts and runs in the little bit of fuel you put in it then you know you have a fuel delivery problem.
Lol yeah. Just saying that the cam gear is made of plastic and they wear out kind of quickly and they are hard to replace because you have to disassemble the entire blower to replace it. :)
I've had it for 8 years and have never done it. Guess I'm overdue! I have the feeler gauge on order. Thanks for the reply and thanks for the very good video.
@@shananigans1179 I really need to! It actually still runs well except the idle seems to be really low. Almost dies with no pressure on the trigger. Could be the valves?
You do mix the fuel. 50:1. Use a good quality 2 stroke oil. That being said it's a 4 stoke motor the runs on 2 stroke gas. It uses the oil in the fuel to lubricate the engineers internal components.
It won't start? What do you mean by exploding noices? first thing I would do is check to see if the ignition switch is on. The second thing I would check is does it have spark. The third thing I would do would be to use a little bit of gasoline into the spark plug hole and see if it will start a fire and die. If it starts and dies then you know you have a fuel related issue. Is it relatively easy to pull over or is it really hard and stiff to pull over?
What do you mean by "put everything on it new"? If you have a new carburetor on it and it's not idling properly you might have got a bad carburetor. You can try adjusting it.
What would cause the valve to keep popping off to the side after just 3min of use? Also after adjusting valve and you give it a full turn they get too loose immediately? What am i doing wrong????
The plastic gear that drives the valves may be worn out. Also sometimes the case gets worn out. Grab the flywheel and try moving it up and down. If you can the blower crank bearing might be worn out also.
Look underneath the flywheel. They'll be a little cover that's held on by four bolts. Make sure all four of those bolts are there. I have seen in the past where the heads have broke off or the bolts have rattled loose. You could also try adjusting the valves we're doing a couple of rotations put it back on top dead center and check the valve again.
I have this same blower, took it in for a service and 2 days after I got it back i I turned it off and was not able to get to turn on again. I took it in and they told me it had no compression. Do you think valve adjustment has anything to do with it
Sometimes the valves will get carbon buildup on them. Still does offer a solution to break down carbon. You put it in the cylinder and let it sit overnight with the valves open. The way you get both valves open is you pop off the valve cover and then just tighten both valves all the way down. After of course putting it on top dead center.
Give me some more info please. Were you using mixed fuel? Did you hear any noises? D I'd it just stop suddenly or wind down gradually? Last week I had one that had a bad flywheel. The timing key had sheared.
Great video explains it all in simple, my br600 just recently started getting hard started and then its like it's kinda flooding itself slightly and doesn't want to rev out but it clears itself eventually and will run fine apart from when I let it back to idle then it just runs really low until it stutters to a stop and won't start again unless I can pull the throttle at the same time, new plug ,clean air filter, fresh fuel ,it's about 3 years old but only does an hour a week even less ,would these valves been out of adjustment cause these symptoms?
Could be carb issue. Sometimes not using it enough will cause issues. The valves could cause a hard starting issue. An easy way to tell if your valves need to be adjusted is if when you pull the rope out you can feel the compression strokes. If you pull the rope and it pulls relatively easily then your valves probably do not need adjusted. That being said if it's been 3 years and you haven't ever had them adjusted they will need adjusted. :-)
@@shananigans1179 no problem thank you for the detailed reply 😊I'll check it over properly this evening I've picked up a new plug again and I'm going to swap out the fuel for new stuff again and take it from there failing that I'll check the card over ,may need a kit to put into it 😀thanks again 👍👍👍
@@shananigans1179 quick update I was actually running it on aspen 4 and mixing in the sthil ultra oil instead of pump fuel which I had been running previously but thought I was doing good using aspen for a change turns out they don't like aspen so I put fresh pump fuel back in there now and it's running like a dream again 👍👍👍 maybe it would require a slightly different tune setup to run it on aspen, ill stick with the pump gas again ,thanks again 👍👍
In our local economy it is more sensible to start the screws carefully by hand, as those machines are over a grand, if they are even available at all. But that was some quick work there.
Great video👌🏻 how often should I be checking/ adjusting? 6 months or once a year? These don’t have hour meters but I use mine full time for mowing and leaves
I check the valves every time someone brings one in for repair. :). You can tell when they are out of adjustment when you pull on the rope slowly and it feels like it has tons of compression. That means the decompression mechanism isn't working because the valves are ready to be adjusted. As for the black rubber/ plastic piece, can you give me a time stamp so I can look. I can't remember putting anything that wasn't stock. :) Hope that helps.
@@shananigans1179 for me, it has a running problem, it has a mysterious stalling problem!!, starts great every time, but seams to act like it runs out of fuel after running 5 to 10 mins, from full throttle it spits and sputters to a very low rpm, may start to run good after a min of doing it , but most cases it stalls. then i have to start it again, runs like crap then it runs like new, i starts blowing leaves, 5 mins later dose it over again!! . im checking valves clearance now to see if problems. i have owned this unit from new, kinda seams like it did it from day one, brought it back to dealer for warranties, they never seamed to fix it. i ready dont know what they did to maybe solve it. these units have alot of valve problems, burning them, breaking, losing adjustment.
Check all the hoses going to the carb to make sure there isn't a pin hole in them and also check the fuel tank vent. It is on the tank next to where the fuel lines go into it. The problem sounds like a venting issue.
One thing I would look at is the flywheel key. Make sure it is still intact. If that's good I would checked spark with a tester. If that's okay then the next step would be valves, but usually if it's a valve issue you will have low power and a hard starting situation. Good luck, keep me posted. :)
You are going to have to remove it. Take off recoil and back cover. Remove not holding flywheel on. Take a hammer and brass punch and hit the shaft while applying pressure to the back side of the flywheel. It should pop right off.
When you use a powered screwdriver hundreds of times a year to do your job like me you get very good with it. You can sense what to do and not to do with it. The reason Shananigans uses it is he has perfected using it for these applications.
What have you checked so far? I would check the valves, tank vent, fuel filter, air filter condition, and spark plug. If that all checks out you could have an air leak or ignition coil problem.
I would almost bet that if you did adjust the valves it would pull over easier. :-) I am glad to hear that you're Stihl machine is running great though!
A very useful video! Very hard to find good Stihl repair videos on here! Is there a general procedure for adjusting all their 2 cycle valves? Crankshaft position? universal gauge?
Yes. Standard tool, top dead center compression stroke. If you have any other questions hit me up. :)
What size gage to use to adjust valves
.10 mm (.004 inches)
@@shananigans1179 cool thanks!!
@@shananigans1179 0.1mm = .004"
Just did this today on my Br600 blower and FS90R trimmer and it was very easy, took me about 30 minutes to do both.
Probably saved yourself 50 bucks! Glad I could help. :)
I was looking for a lightweight blower for my deck. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxgioZQl3J5wPGAeDINzbieKbT5qomSEx3 There are some huge trees around my house and the leaves and pods drop all over my deck. Having to move furniture around to sweep has become too big a chore. This blower was the answer. It is light enough for this 70yr old lady and powerful enough to blow all the tree droppings off my rather large deck. Thank you B&D. Be aware the cord is not included. I use a 3 prong outdoor cord 25' cord for my 12' x 20' deck. The cord retainer works very well, but don't try to pass the plug through it. That is NOT how it works. You just have to loop the cord and it works great. One of my best purchases. Very happy.
Thank you ! I had a hard pull with both my BR600 and FS91 that are near 4 years old I went ahead with the adjustment as you shown here and the 4MIX valves are set correct now all is good! Like new thanks again
Happy to help.
I love videos like this. Took me less than 8 minutes to Learn how to do this. Again
Happy to help. :)
Excellent video! I just bought a new BR600 Magnum for use around the house blowing leaves on approx. 1/2 to 3/4 acres. I book marked this video for future viewing. Thanks for posting this video.....................
Thank you. Glad to help.
Just great never knew how important value adjustment was...like new, thanks much. Art
Thanks for this video, my BR600 would sometimes act like it didn't want to reach wide open throttle when I squeezed the trigger even after adjusting the mixture screws on the carburetor. After watching your video I checked the valves and it seems they were a little on the tight side, couldn't get my feeler gauge in there at all. I just modified a .004 feeler gauge, cut it thin on the end to fit.
That's great. Glad to help. :)
Thanks a lot that fixed leaf blower it runs like a new one now .
+Lori Parsons glad I could help.
Great video. You explained things very well. Subscribed.
My stihl training course told me to double the exhaust valve setting to .020 , and it’s been way better on exhaust valve life. That extra time it gets to cool off on the valve seat is better in the long run 👍
Gold school training? Did they charge that. The valve feller gauge I get from stihl is .010mm which crosses over to about. 004 std. Crazy stihl engineers could have changed it though. :)
Hi...I wonder if please you could help me?
I am in UK
I have a Stihl 600 magnum blower...4 years old...been great
last used it about March this year
now...it will not start...nothing happening at all!
plug adjustment is OK
full fuel tank...new fuel
air filter is clean
whatever I do , it just will not ignite!
anything you can help me with I would be really grateful
I am on GRHengland if you can help
thanks a lot!!!
Try putting a teaspoon of mixed fuel down the spark plug hole. Reassemble and pull the cord with no choke and trigger locked in full wide open position. If it starts and dies you have a faulty fuel system. This would mean you would have to check your war fuel lines fuel filter and carburetor. If it won't start still then check for spark or timing issue.
@@shananigans1179 thank you very much
It's getting dark here so I will try your tips tomorrow!
Thanks again...
I am most grateful
@@grahamharrison6724 soooo how did ya make out?
My pull cord is hard to pull, but it does pull. I removed the spark plug it was very easy and free after that. Does this indicate a valve adjustment? A few forums have indicated as such.
That is correct! The decompression knob on the cam is not hitting the valves because they are too loose. After you adjust the valves it will pull like new again.
@@shananigans1179 one more thing. (I got the blower for $75 at a flea market)
there are leaks from multiple places it seems. It's covered in grime. Gonna clean it. Would you suspect valve cover? Or something else? It is from top to bottom. But also reaches the left side where the carb is. I'm thinking the fuel like is loose and leaking too,
Also upon taking off the orange cover , I had 3 nuts fall out. Any idea where they go? They look like backing nuts to the ones I removed for the cover or something but I'm not sure they're supposed to be completely loose like that
The pieces that feel out are probably the spacers that go in the recoil holes. The seal behind the fly wheel is probably leaking. Look at the bottom of the crankcase and make sure all the bolts are still in it. I see them come loose often. Fuel line could have a home in it but it could also be a tank vent leaking. Also check and make sure the crank shaft bearings are tight still. :) Good luck! :)
How do you know when the blower is in need of a valve adjustment?
+Curtis Brown Stihl recommends that you check them after the first 139 hours, and then as needed after that. If you still don't have full power after installing a new air fitter, cleaning the exhaust screen and port, and making sure your carb is adjusted properly, then valves may be your problem. I check them every time I service someone's machine. It's an easy thing to do and more often then not they are out.
Great video. I have a BR 600 that bogs down at full throttle. I've changed air & fuel filters & new spark plug. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Might be a carb adjustment if the valve adjustment didn't do anything for you.
Try the search for cleaning the spark arrestor.
I guess it could be but usually on these 4 stroke units they don't get plugged up too often. At least in my area. :) That is a great suggestion though!
me too, did you figure it out?
What have you tried so far to fix it?
My BR550 wants to “diesel” when I turn it off using the throttle control handle. I hope you know what that means as it may be a local term that means it sputters and chugs for 5-10 seconds before the engine finally dies. Do you have any idea what may be causing this. This video is excellent. Very concise and to the point. Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise with us.
Thanks.
As for your problem I would look at the carburetor, seals or maybe the timing. I had a wierd one the other day where the flywheel kid had sheared and it was doing the same thing. I guess I should ask what have you tried already? :)
@@shananigans1179 the carb seems fine. No obvious leaking from the seals. I’m not sure how to check or adjust the timing. Do you have a video on that? Again, thanks for your time.
To check the timing just put the cylinder on top dead center and see where the magnets are lining up to the ignition coil. They should be pretty close to it. The other thing you can do is take the bolt off of the flywheel and pop the flywheel off and look and see if the sheer key is still intact. unfortunately it's integrated into the flywheel so if it is sheared off you will have to get a new or good used flywheel.
Very helpful information that I used the basics of to adjust my propane Eskimo ch40 ice auger. After valve adjustment started first pull.
+Ron marsden glad I could help. :)
Turn the flywheel until it isn’t tight and the valves don’t move, line up S on Mark in video. Don’t think you went around enough with flywheel. Usually .06” feeler gauge. Better to uses hand torx screwdriver to get torx bolts loose and tighten last bit to snug. Using battery drill like you did can strip the bolts. Just saying.
Mike Spain
Is that 60 thou or 6 thou?
The Stihl feeler gauge is metric and it has 10 stamped on it. That being said my caliper reads .004".
Great Video !!
Thanks
Thanks for the Video. Do you have any videos or tips on how to replace the Fuel lines? One of lines is broke in half.
Is it a Stihl trimmer? If so they usually use a molded fuel line that you just pop in and out with a screwdriver. make sure you round the screwdriver edges off so nothing's really sharp.
@@shananigans1179 Its a Br600 Backpack Blower.
I like to adjust the valves so that gauge fits in tightly. That way they won't go out of adjustment as easily.
An old mechanic that I apprenticed under in the late 1960 always commented "when you can hear them they're working". My old beetle clattered happily along for quite a few years.
Good job. You don't waste time.
Thanks for this video I was perplexed on how to start thos project, but after finding this vodeo it was a snap.
Jeremy Schudde, glad I could help.
How do you adjust the valves on a Stihl br 200 blower
That unit has no valves. If you are having running issues I would check the exhaust screen and make sure it is clean. :)
I have a new BR 800 CE I bought before Christmas and it doesn't seem to rev up as high as when I first got it. It actually started to go downhill after my second tank of fuel. I have now run 5 tanks through it and it has dropped noticeably in power. Could this be the problem? It's pretty new yet to be a valve adjustment isn't it?
I would check the air filter and maybe try a simple carb adjustment first. That does seem to be to quick to be a valve adjustment. That being said it wouldn't surprise me if they were off just a little. A quick way to tell if the valves need to be adjusted is if when you pull the starter rope out slowly does it feel nice and smooth? If it does then you're good. If it feels like you're pulling an old 2 stroke then your decompression valve isn't engaging , making it a harder jerky type pull.
Shananigans I took it in today under warranty. The tech did a compression test and said it was at 50.... whatever that means. He said he adjusted the valves and retested and it passed with flying colours. I would not have thought valves would need adjustment after only 2 tanks of fuel. Unless he was full of it?
How do I determine which is the intake top dead center? If I go around with the magneto and line up the S with the coil hold down screw, valves are loose. I go around one more time and align the S to the coil hold down screw and the valves are tight. When do you adjust?
A trick would be to put something long and straight like a straw into the cylinder and watch it move up and down as you rotate the flywheel.
Nicely done sir.
Pro repair, great vid and info!
Thank. Happy to help.
Could valves be out of adjustment if motor idles fine but wants to sputter out when on the throttle?
I tried adjusting the H carb, but just can’t get the throttle to stick.
Have they ever been adjusted? It might help, but I would think more of a carb issue.
@@shananigans1179 I just bought the unit off of market place. The previous owner had it serviced every year. There’s a blue paint marker beside the valve cover. Not on the cover itself. I’m checking right now to see if I can order the feeler gauge and service kit off of Amazon.
@@shananigans1179 any idea what that 3rd set screw is beside the choke?
I adjust the valves on almost every one. The cam gear is plastic to it wears quickly. What happens if you manually move the choke back and forth while you try to throttle it up?
I have a BR 600 backpack blower that won't start. I replaced the fuel filter, air filter and put new mixed gasoline in there and sparkplug is working. What should I try next?
Try using a little starting fluid. If it stays and dies right away check the fuel lines and filter and carb. If it doesn't, let me know.
Did an overhaul on an old br600 magnum. Had a horrible carb leak with zero fuel going to the engine. Ended up being the carb needle lever being bent out of spec. Wasnt lifting the needle off the seat at all. A little tweak with a gasket kit got it screaming Thing runs like a pissed off ape now. The throttle response is better than new.
I think im the only person that does valve adjustments in the area. The stihl dealers dont even bother.
That's crazy! I adjust the valves ever time I work on one. It makes it run better and they get out of spec so quickly.
Great video. Could you make a video on replacing the wire inside the blower box. I think its a ground. I have a 550 Z.
+Isaac Sundberg I will see if I can find one to fix. If it's the wire in thinking of it should be there to dissipate the static that's builds up so it doesn't shock you.
So basically how many times do you have to go around with flywheel before you land on tdc for the valve adjustment?
I usually just watch for the intake valve to open and close. As it closes you know you are headed towards the tdc compression stroke. :)
Great video. Does Stihl require the motor to be warmed up before adjusting valve clearance or is it supposed to be cold?
Adjust the valves when the engine is cold.
Great video!!! What kind of spray did you use to clean with? Thanks...
I just used a little carb cleaner to knock off some of the dirt and wet down the dust. :) Just trying to keep as much dirt out as possible.
I know this is an older video, but ive done a valve adjustment and still hard to pull, doesnt want to run, and making a clanking noise. Any ideas where to look next?
Making noise is never good. Remoce the recoil and see if you get any up and down play on the flywheel. Look for any bolts that may have broke holding the bottom case half together or cranckshaft bearings that may be worn.
@Shananigans thanks for the quick reply. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the flywheel is still hard to spin with the spark plug removed, that should eliminate valve adjustment as the issue?
If you have the work plug out and it's still hard to pull over it sounds like someone may have ran the machine without oil mixed in the gas. 9 times out to 10:00. This will seize the bearing on the connecting rod and will be hard to pull over.
@Shananigans that would definitely make sense given the time of year it seized up. Lots of part timers in the winter! Thanks for the great info and quick replies. Appreciate it!
Happy to help.
I have a br600 but it’s making a lot of noise when in use. It hasn’t lost any power it’s just really noisy any idea what this could be
Check the valves.
Check the blower fan.
If those are good it might be the lower bearings on the crank.
Check that no bolts are loose on the crankcase as well.
That should give you a few common things to look at. :)
Thanks!
What did you find was wrong? :)
Was the blower fan! Thanks
Can anyone tell me where I can get screws for the large cover? Everything went well replacing the carb and doing the valves. putting on the final large cover I noticed I only had two of the 4 coarse 3/4" screws. In the process of looking for the lost ones I lost another one. I swear these things go into some kind of alternate plane of existence.
+martin danburen
9074 477 4132 is the part number for the screw. The description says the screw is IS-P5x18 self tapping screw.
Any Stihl dealer in your area should have them.
+martin danburen here ia a link to the illustrated parts list. www.smaf-touseau.com/doc/136
Greatly appreciated! Thank you.
Hello! Amazing video. I have a BR800 Magnum blower. Having a hard time adjusting carburetor. Stihl recommend L 1 1/2. H 3 1/2
My blowers do not work under those specs.
I have L 3 turns and H 4 1/2 it work good. Having the hardest time keeping power and bogs down. I have not done valve adjustments in months with daily use of the blower. Can that make it loose power? And therefore have trouble adjusting carburetor?
It sounds like you have an air leak that much more fuel mean air is getting into the engine where it shouldn't. Take a can of carb cleaner or starting fluid it something and spray it around the seals and lower crank case area. If it changes rpms then you know what you get to do. :)
@@shananigans1179
I have done it.. problem is carburetor. I adjust it L to where works great in idle then H where has solid performance .. turn it off go on to the next place and bogs down until I turn it down a bit. Then next place same thing I have tried for days to find that right spot. Does “L” and “H” have to be at one point to make them work fine. Use it in the morning but if turned off and back on un 15-20 minutes takes a lot of time to warm up again.. before it was just cold in the morning. After that no problems during the whole day... at this point I want to replace carburetor but blower is 4 months old.
Stihl BR800 magnum. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
It really sounds like an air leak to me. Do you see any oil residue around the bottom or seals? Also if the gasket is broken on the valve cover that could let air into the system. One other thing to do would be to check the bearings. To check them take the recoil off and grab the flywheel and and see if you can move it up and down. If you have any play at all in it then you might need a shirt block which should be covered under warranty. (It wouldn't be the first one that's had problems so soon)
@@shananigans1179
Hey!!! Wanted to share some good news. I own 2 Stihl blowers BR800. Turns out after, adjusting valves, carburetor being a night mare for 2 weeks not being able to find that spot. This morning I open the fuel cap and heard that power come. So got my attention and that is why it was working some times and never being able to adjust. Apparently is not venting. I adjusted carburetor with cap loose and work great. Now looks like I need to replace that vent (have no idead how, tried popping it out and half of it only came out) it is strange how both blowers are doing the sane thing.
That's great you found the problem. It's been ages since I have done anything with those breather assy things. They should just pop out of I remember right. Good luck and thanks for letting me know what you found. :)
Oh, what size feller gauge did you use?
.004 inches or .010mm
@@shananigans1179 Okay cool.
I know stihl says to check after 139 hours but I just bought a br600 this year for home use for leaf cleanup I’ve only put 3-4 hours on it and will probably average around 20 hours a year in your opinion how often should I check the valves? I was thinking every over season maybe longer but definitely not the 6-7 years it would take me to get to 139 hours
You can tell when the valves really need to be adjusted when you go to pull on the rope and you can really fill the compression stroke. It's because as the exhaust valve loosens up it is no longer pushed up by the decompression mechanism on the gear. So if you wanted to wait until it was just hard to pull over and then adjust it you could do that. if you wanted to try and stay on top of things every other year would probably be fine. Just pay attention to the pull and compression stroke. :)
My blower was starting to make slight screeching noise - I thought maybe a leaf was caught in air intake area-then after a few minutes engine started to lose power. I shut it down. But now it turns over hard when I pull cord and won’t start. Advice?
That sounds like a bearing is going out in the crank case. Just start tearing things apart into you find what is causing the binding. :)
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Valves are tight on mine, spark plug is good, still seem to not get it to turn over. Any ideas?
Try putting a little gas first into the disk plug hole, putting the spark plug back in and starting it. If it starts and runs in the little bit of fuel you put in it then you know you have a fuel delivery problem.
Which valve is the intake? Right or left? Thanks
The left valve, closest to the carb.
At 4:27 seems to be sort of mumbling - little plastic tin gear - What?
Lol yeah. Just saying that the cam gear is made of plastic and they wear out kind of quickly and they are hard to replace because you have to disassemble the entire blower to replace it. :)
Hi, Shenanigans, how often should the valves be adjusted? I've had my BR 600 since 2010 and have never had it done. Thanks, great video.
That depends on how much you use it. :) Every 50 hours would be a good number.
I've had it for 8 years and have never done it. Guess I'm overdue! I have the feeler gauge on order. Thanks for the reply and thanks for the very good video.
I'm glad I could help. Just so you know, a magnet in your tool box hold the tool nicely so you can find it next time you need it. :)
I’ve got a 600 I’ve used for commercial mowing for about 10 years now and never checked the valves. Interesting.
If you check them I bet you will be amazed at how much better it runs. :)
@@shananigans1179 I really need to! It actually still runs well except the idle seems to be really low. Almost dies with no pressure on the trigger. Could be the valves?
Could be. Also check the adjustment on the trigger. There is a little screw that you can turn that will help if your throttle cable is stretched.
@@shananigans1179 Gotcha! Thanks man!
Yup. Anytime. :)
Hey what sizes is the adjustment wedge that you use?
It it from Stihl. It has 10 stamped in it. I think it gauged out at .004 inches.
Shananigans nice thanks
Mauro Sanchez .06 gauge
That would be 10 mm. Thanks for that info!
0.100 mm
Is this a 2 cycle or a 4 cycle? I just got one and don’t know if I need to mix
You do mix the fuel. 50:1. Use a good quality 2 stroke oil. That being said it's a 4 stoke motor the runs on 2 stroke gas. It uses the oil in the fuel to lubricate the engineers internal components.
Hello my br600 does not crank up and makes exploding noices, do you know what that can be?
It won't start? What do you mean by exploding noices? first thing I would do is check to see if the ignition switch is on. The second thing I would check is does it have spark. The third thing I would do would be to use a little bit of gasoline into the spark plug hole and see if it will start a fire and die. If it starts and dies then you know you have a fuel related issue. Is it relatively easy to pull over or is it really hard and stiff to pull over?
I will post a video tomorrow to show you what I'm talking about
What is the thickness of the valve adjusting tool?
.010 mm or .004 in
@@shananigans1179 0.10 you mean. (1/10th mm)
Yes,!! That's exactly what I mean. :)
I have a br600 put everything on it new turns on runs fine wont idle do you suggest doing this to it..?
What do you mean by "put everything on it new"? If you have a new carburetor on it and it's not idling properly you might have got a bad carburetor. You can try adjusting it.
@@shananigans1179 yea the carburetor is new and the fuel filter, air filter,spark plug all new
Did you try turning the idle stop screw up a little. Should be the lower screw kind of by itself.
Yea I'm probably going to end up buying a new carburetor because this one I turned the idle screw and nothing happens
Sounds like it is a bad carb. Good luck.
buen dia alguien me puede decir como se pone a punto arbol de leva y cigueñal de sopladora stihl BR 600
Great vid big dog!
Thanks
What would cause the valve to keep popping off to the side after just 3min of use? Also after adjusting valve and you give it a full turn they get too loose immediately? What am i doing wrong????
The plastic gear that drives the valves may be worn out. Also sometimes the case gets worn out. Grab the flywheel and try moving it up and down. If you can the blower crank bearing might be worn out also.
@@shananigans1179 this blower looks brand new. So just trying to wrap my head around what happened. Thank you for quick reply
Look underneath the flywheel. They'll be a little cover that's held on by four bolts. Make sure all four of those bolts are there. I have seen in the past where the heads have broke off or the bolts have rattled loose. You could also try adjusting the valves we're doing a couple of rotations put it back on top dead center and check the valve again.
I have this same blower, took it in for a service and 2 days after I got it back i I turned it off and was not able to get to turn on again. I took it in and they told me it had no compression. Do you think valve adjustment has anything to do with it
Sometimes the valves will get carbon buildup on them. Still does offer a solution to break down carbon. You put it in the cylinder and let it sit overnight with the valves open. The way you get both valves open is you pop off the valve cover and then just tighten both valves all the way down. After of course putting it on top dead center.
It has a decompression valve, so putting a regular compression tester on it will show low/ no compression.
Shananigans thank you , the valves needed adjustment.
James Larson Thank you. It was the valves.
I have a Stihl BR 700. It stopped working when I was using it and cannot start again. Do you know why?
Give me some more info please. Were you using mixed fuel? Did you hear any noises? D I'd it just stop suddenly or wind down gradually? Last week I had one that had a bad flywheel. The timing key had sheared.
Great video explains it all in simple, my br600 just recently started getting hard started and then its like it's kinda flooding itself slightly and doesn't want to rev out but it clears itself eventually and will run fine apart from when I let it back to idle then it just runs really low until it stutters to a stop and won't start again unless I can pull the throttle at the same time, new plug ,clean air filter, fresh fuel ,it's about 3 years old but only does an hour a week even less ,would these valves been out of adjustment cause these symptoms?
Could be carb issue. Sometimes not using it enough will cause issues. The valves could cause a hard starting issue. An easy way to tell if your valves need to be adjusted is if when you pull the rope out you can feel the compression strokes. If you pull the rope and it pulls relatively easily then your valves probably do not need adjusted. That being said if it's been 3 years and you haven't ever had them adjusted they will need adjusted. :-)
@@shananigans1179 no problem thank you for the detailed reply 😊I'll check it over properly this evening I've picked up a new plug again and I'm going to swap out the fuel for new stuff again and take it from there failing that I'll check the card over ,may need a kit to put into it 😀thanks again 👍👍👍
Happy to help. :)
@@shananigans1179 quick update I was actually running it on aspen 4 and mixing in the sthil ultra oil instead of pump fuel which I had been running previously but thought I was doing good using aspen for a change turns out they don't like aspen so I put fresh pump fuel back in there now and it's running like a dream again 👍👍👍 maybe it would require a slightly different tune setup to run it on aspen, ill stick with the pump gas again ,thanks again 👍👍
Glad you got it figured out. :)
Hello. My BR600 is very easy to pull and has only 75% of power. What can be the problem, please?
Carb could be out of adjustment. .
Throttle cable adjustment
In our local economy it is more sensible to start the screws carefully by hand, as those machines are over a grand, if they are even available at all. But that was some quick work there.
They are getting easier to find now.
Great video👌🏻 how often should I be checking/ adjusting? 6 months or once a year?
These don’t have hour meters but I use mine full time for mowing and leaves
Also what’s that black rubber or plastic you added to the bottom plate? Cool
I check the valves every time someone brings one in for repair. :). You can tell when they are out of adjustment when you pull on the rope slowly and it feels like it has
tons of compression. That means the decompression mechanism isn't working because the valves are ready to be adjusted. As for the black rubber/ plastic piece, can you give me a time stamp so I can look. I can't remember putting anything that wasn't stock. :) Hope that helps.
Shananigans good view @6:51
Nice and expensive blower but to many problems
I agree with you there. :)
i have one, not happy! to many problems . would not get one again.
What other problems are you having?
@@shananigans1179 for me, it has a running problem, it has a mysterious stalling problem!!, starts great every time, but seams to act like it runs out of fuel after running 5 to 10 mins, from full throttle it spits and sputters to a very low rpm, may start to run good after a min of doing it , but most cases it stalls. then i have to start it again, runs like crap then it runs like new, i starts blowing leaves, 5 mins later dose it over again!! . im checking valves clearance now to see if problems. i have owned this unit from new, kinda seams like it did it from day one, brought it back to dealer for warranties, they never seamed to fix it. i ready dont know what they did to maybe solve it. these units have alot of valve problems, burning them, breaking, losing adjustment.
Check all the hoses going to the carb to make sure there isn't a pin hole in them and also check the fuel tank vent. It is on the tank next to where the fuel lines go into it. The problem sounds like a venting issue.
Very good
can loose valves cause a blower not to even fire, I put a new coil and checks for sparks buts its not even firing even tried quick start
One thing I would look at is the flywheel key. Make sure it is still intact. If that's good I would checked spark with a tester. If that's okay then the next step would be valves, but usually if it's a valve issue you will have low power and a hard starting situation. Good luck, keep me posted. :)
You could visually check to see if the valves are moving up and down. If the can is broken that could cause a no start issue.
How do I check the flywheel key.
When I pull the cord. I can see the cylinder go up and down
You are going to have to remove it. Take off recoil and back cover. Remove not holding flywheel on. Take a hammer and brass punch and hit the shaft while applying pressure to the back side of the flywheel. It should pop right off.
Good video, however I would not use a powered driver on Torx-head bolts.
To each his own I guess. :)
When you use a powered screwdriver hundreds of times a year to do your job like me you get very good with it. You can sense what to do and not to do with it. The reason Shananigans uses it is he has perfected using it for these applications.
Thanks!!.
My blower doesn't turn on right after use. I have to wait around 20 minutes for it to turn back on.
What have you checked so far? I would check the valves, tank vent, fuel filter, air filter condition, and spark plug. If that all checks out you could have an air leak or ignition coil problem.
LOL! That unit looks brand new. All of ours are beat to hell.
It was only a few months old. :)
I’ve never adjusted the valves on mine, yet it still runs just fine
I would almost bet that if you did adjust the valves it would pull over easier. :-) I am glad to hear that you're Stihl machine is running great though!
iS THE VALVE GAP TOP SECRET INFO OOOOR DO WE HAVE TO PURCHASE THE STIHL TOOL????????????????????????
.004 inches or .010 mm
Don't tell anyone! :) If you go grab one add an auto parts store just use some scissors and trim it up to look like the one in the video..
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
what a tlc for stihl
Luis Rodriguez tender loving care
u mean "pos" piece of shhh****tt!
@@chadbailey189 any small engine with an OHV states in the manual to check the valve lash every 100 hours or so. Don't be an idiot.....
Ide think a guy could just take a tin snips and cut a piece of feeler guage thin enough to work.
You can use scissor on that thin of metal. :)
just saying
Em portugues porra
This was a typical "flat rate" rate of pay to complete the procedure vs hourly rate of pay...who suffers the consequence?
We get payd most for what we know how to do, the work comes second. 👌
i need to try this with mine & see if its the problem. ive had girlfriends that could blow harder c'mon
I laughed soooo hard brother..sooo hard🤣salute to u from Chicago
that's right superman use a drill to remove screws in plastic strip them out coming out as well as tightening..smart...
If it's good enough at the Stihl gold school I figured it was good enough for a UA-cam video. :) If you can't control your drill don't use it.
It appeared the drill controlled you several times the way it wrenched your wrist while tightening. @@shananigans1179
@@shananigans1179 you cant please everybody
H
Plastic cam gear!!!!??? Stihl went to shit
Where did you get the long torq bit and the gauge?
The but it's out of a blue point set from the small on truck years ago and the gauge was from the dealership I worked at. You can find them on eBay.