Excellent question, and why I shot such a close-up with the camera. The actual specification for that valve adjustment is .010" (ten thousandths of an inch), which is about 2-1/2 sheets of printer paper thick (printer paper is about .004"). Stihl makes a feeler gauge for making the adjustment, and you'll see them on ebay. The way I do it, is based on 2 things: - I've been spinning wrenches on European cars and power equipment since 1979. I have enough experience to do certain things by feel, which is why in my vids you'll see me use a large impact gun, and I'm often using a 12 volt electric screw gun to disassemble and reassemble machines (none of which I recommend that a novice do). - We're not flying power equipment to the moon, and it's air cooled, so the engine is changing dimensions as it heats and cools. Needless to say, is this adjustment so critical that it needs to be exactly .010"? No. I just needs to be "correct" in terms of; the compression release is activated, and in my opinion, the exhaust valve has a little extra time to remain seated against the cylinder head area, and transfer it's heat. Cooler exhaust valves are happy exhaust valves. All that said, would it be the same amount of time to just take out the correct feeler gauge, and do-it-right-the-first-time? Yes, it would. If it was automotive work, where valve adjustment really matters, then for sure, I'd be using feeler gauges. For what I'm working on (power equipment), my do-it-by-feel method is fine, and it demonstrates to the viewer that they can do this at home, with a reasonable amount of care and skill, and have their equipment up and running again. Hopefully that's of benefit to people, because not only does it save them money, it keeps their equipment in order and back in service immediately. The one local dealer here is 8-10wks out on turn-around, and charges 125 bucks an hour. Thanks for watching, and for the comment! I hope the videos help you keep your equipment running, and that you develop your skill for spinning wrenches!
@@austinado16thanks for the thorough reply! i work for my local parks district, and i’m not sure that we’ve got a feeler gauge, so saving the taxpayer a few bucks if i can get it within a suitable range without the gauge makes sense to me! thanks again, you’re the man!
@@benjaminsayer8873 The feeler gauge is about 7 bucks on ebay. When adjusting the valves on any engine, you have to make sure that the cylinder you are working on, is at TDC (Top Dead Center), and on the compression stroke. In this video you saw me rotate the crankshaft while watching what the rocker arms were doing, and at one point, they were both moving at the same time. You heard me call this "Overlap" and that I needed 1 more rotation of the crankshaft in order to get to the compression stroke, an TDC. Since you're in the learning phase, my suggestion is that you remove the spark plug, and use something non-damaging, like a wood dowel, or a length of string trimmer line, etc, and put that into the cylinder until it touches the top of the piston, and then let the piston push your "story stick" upward, until there's no more upward movement. While doing this, watch the rocker arms. If they are both moving as your story stick stops moving, you're in overlap, so make one more rotation, and when the stick comes back up, you're at TDC on the compression stroke where both valves are closed, and there should be a gap between the rocker arms and the valve stems. This is the spot at which you can make your adjustment. The next step I'd suggest, since you're learning, is to used compressed air, or maybe a shot of carb cleaner (Berryman's Chemtool) and blast the oil residue from between the rocker arms and the valve stems. You'll see in my video that I don't do this, and that there's oil in the gap I'm checking. The oil will make it difficult for you to feel the gap sort of clanking up and down. I'm used to doing it this way, so I have a feel for it. You'll be able to feel the gap better, after you remove the oil that's sitting there. Be warned that using compressed air is going to blow a ton of blower dust/debris into your face and eyes, and into the rockers that should be extremely clean. Use caution, or just give the rockers a shot of carb cleaner. Don't be afraid to turn the nuts counter-clockwise until you feel a gap that's too big, and then turn them clockwise, until it's just right. You see me go back and forth a little as I get the gap that I'm after. Lastly, be careful setting that valve cover back down, because if you damage the cork gasket, you'll have an air leak, the engine either won't run, or won't run correctly. Take your time, because being slow and methodical is fast. Have fun!
@@benjaminsayer8873 Great job repairing it! I appreciate you posting a follow-up! If you have other 4Mix machines, (string trimmers, kombi units that take different attachments, or more blowers,) it would probably be a good idea to adjust the valves in all of them, replace all the air filters, and using an air compressor to blast all the debris from the engine cooling fins and cooling air intake slots, and from around the carburetors.
$30 will get you feeler gauge and hopefully one can figure out how to use it properly. Years of experience: priceless!! Awesome work mate!
😂 I get out the feeler gauges for the automotive work that I do, but never for this little stuff.
how did you know how much to adjust those little nuts at the top center? sorry, i’m quite the small engine novice
Excellent question, and why I shot such a close-up with the camera. The actual specification for that valve adjustment is .010" (ten thousandths of an inch), which is about 2-1/2 sheets of printer paper thick (printer paper is about .004"). Stihl makes a feeler gauge for making the adjustment, and you'll see them on ebay.
The way I do it, is based on 2 things:
- I've been spinning wrenches on European cars and power equipment since 1979. I have enough experience to do certain things by feel, which is why in my vids you'll see me use a large impact gun, and I'm often using a 12 volt electric screw gun to disassemble and reassemble machines (none of which I recommend that a novice do).
- We're not flying power equipment to the moon, and it's air cooled, so the engine is changing dimensions as it heats and cools. Needless to say, is this adjustment so critical that it needs to be exactly .010"? No. I just needs to be "correct" in terms of; the compression release is activated, and in my opinion, the exhaust valve has a little extra time to remain seated against the cylinder head area, and transfer it's heat. Cooler exhaust valves are happy exhaust valves.
All that said, would it be the same amount of time to just take out the correct feeler gauge, and do-it-right-the-first-time? Yes, it would. If it was automotive work, where valve adjustment really matters, then for sure, I'd be using feeler gauges. For what I'm working on (power equipment), my do-it-by-feel method is fine, and it demonstrates to the viewer that they can do this at home, with a reasonable amount of care and skill, and have their equipment up and running again. Hopefully that's of benefit to people, because not only does it save them money, it keeps their equipment in order and back in service immediately. The one local dealer here is 8-10wks out on turn-around, and charges 125 bucks an hour.
Thanks for watching, and for the comment! I hope the videos help you keep your equipment running, and that you develop your skill for spinning wrenches!
@@austinado16thanks for the thorough reply! i work for my local parks district, and i’m not sure that we’ve got a feeler gauge, so saving the taxpayer a few bucks if i can get it within a suitable range without the gauge makes sense to me! thanks again, you’re the man!
@@benjaminsayer8873 The feeler gauge is about 7 bucks on ebay.
When adjusting the valves on any engine, you have to make sure that the cylinder you are working on, is at TDC (Top Dead Center), and on the compression stroke. In this video you saw me rotate the crankshaft while watching what the rocker arms were doing, and at one point, they were both moving at the same time. You heard me call this "Overlap" and that I needed 1 more rotation of the crankshaft in order to get to the compression stroke, an TDC. Since you're in the learning phase, my suggestion is that you remove the spark plug, and use something non-damaging, like a wood dowel, or a length of string trimmer line, etc, and put that into the cylinder until it touches the top of the piston, and then let the piston push your "story stick" upward, until there's no more upward movement. While doing this, watch the rocker arms. If they are both moving as your story stick stops moving, you're in overlap, so make one more rotation, and when the stick comes back up, you're at TDC on the compression stroke where both valves are closed, and there should be a gap between the rocker arms and the valve stems. This is the spot at which you can make your adjustment.
The next step I'd suggest, since you're learning, is to used compressed air, or maybe a shot of carb cleaner (Berryman's Chemtool) and blast the oil residue from between the rocker arms and the valve stems. You'll see in my video that I don't do this, and that there's oil in the gap I'm checking. The oil will make it difficult for you to feel the gap sort of clanking up and down. I'm used to doing it this way, so I have a feel for it. You'll be able to feel the gap better, after you remove the oil that's sitting there. Be warned that using compressed air is going to blow a ton of blower dust/debris into your face and eyes, and into the rockers that should be extremely clean. Use caution, or just give the rockers a shot of carb cleaner. Don't be afraid to turn the nuts counter-clockwise until you feel a gap that's too big, and then turn them clockwise, until it's just right. You see me go back and forth a little as I get the gap that I'm after.
Lastly, be careful setting that valve cover back down, because if you damage the cork gasket, you'll have an air leak, the engine either won't run, or won't run correctly.
Take your time, because being slow and methodical is fast. Have fun!
@@austinado16started right up after following your instructions. thank you again for all the help!
@@benjaminsayer8873 Great job repairing it! I appreciate you posting a follow-up! If you have other 4Mix machines, (string trimmers, kombi units that take different attachments, or more blowers,) it would probably be a good idea to adjust the valves in all of them, replace all the air filters, and using an air compressor to blast all the debris from the engine cooling fins and cooling air intake slots, and from around the carburetors.