I have a 66-18 with the book and attachments that was gifted to me several years ago. Got me through while mine was being serviced. Then she ended up being my favorite!
Thank you so much for sharing. I Rescued a vintage Singer from being tossed. Because of your video I have identified it as Singer 15-90. I intend to clean it up, order some missing parts and get it running again.
I've always wanted a kinda bird id system for early sewing machines, if you have this and this and this, its a singer 66... good job. we are one step closer...
I need help identifying my vintage sewing machine. I have the model number and know the year it was made but idk anything else about it. Made in 1948 and has AH in the beginning of the number. Thank you for all your knowledge here. Very interesting!
I'd need to see photos of the machine and also have the full serial number to be able to help. The AH at the start of the serial number indicates that the machine was possibly built at Elizabethport, New Jersey, but I can't tell much more than that from the info given. Look up the full serial number here: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-ah-series-serial-numbers.html
I identify models this way. 27/127 vs 28/128: the size. Once you touch or see one, the 28 looks like a toy. 27/28 vs 127/128: the position of the bobbin winder, low for de 27-8 and upper position for the 127-8. This family is easy to identify for the sliding plates backwards and forward next to the needle plate, and also the small plate in the front. 15 class: two ways. The sliding plate is larger than the 66/201, and the thread tensioner is on the face plate, in sewing position, at your left, not in front of your nose. 66/99: The thread tensioner is in front of your eyes, short needle plate. In the begining, the stitch lenght is adjusted with a knob, not a lever, before back tack incorporated. 201: The stitch lenght has its own design respect 15/66/99. If you see underbed, two legs on the right side, and the cover for the gear on the left side, capable of sewing without any kind of threadle or base. It has a spool pin on the right side of the bed for winding the bobbin.
I've never seen a red eye 66 in the UK, I think it's just the US version that had it. I could be wrong of course, but there's no e on eBay etc over here. Likewise, the 201s in the UK mostly have the light on the back, and I think I've only ever seen a couple with front light on ebay when I was looking for one. Are you hoping to get a 201? They're lovely sewers, really smooth. V heavy though!
As far as I know, Redeye decals were only found on Singer 66 in the US. The UK version of the 66 had the Lotus decals. Yes, I'm looking for a 201. But then I'm also looking for a 500, 600E, and a 401 lol... I'm just looking for sewing machines 😆
My 66 doesn’t have the decals but it does have the lever for stitch length and back tack. Oh and I have a light affixed to the back of my machine, but I don’t use it because it gets too hot.
Double plates? Do you mean the throat plates extend from the front of the machine all the way across the bed of the machine to to the back? With a long bobbin and a bullet shaped bobbin case? Sounds like a vibrating shuttle. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/nhWYlpBn-xc/v-deo.html
Hello again, sorry to bother you but I would like to ask your advice. I just learned why my 1945 model 66 looks different. It has a crinkle finish because of the war and metal use restrictions. Should I still put new decals on it? I can see they had been there and the front Singer decal is still fair. Do you think the decals will apply as they should. Thank you, Diana
The decals on crinkle finish machines were always a bit more... minimal than other machines. Check out this post over on the SingerSewingInfo site: www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/blackside I personally wouldn't renew the decals. There are a couple of reasons. The first, replacing decals usually involves taking off the shellac and priming the base. It sounds easy but if taking off the shellac damages the crinkle finish... I don't know how easy that will be to replace. There is a risk you might end up having to repaint the whole machine with a different finish. The second, the more restoration work you do, the more history you wipe away. Over-restoring can decrease the value of vintage and antique items dramatically. Ultimately, it's your machine, so it's up to you. But sometimes you need to think about the old adage, if it ain't broke - don't fix it. Hope that helps.
Here in PA, I followed all your instructions to find the year and model number for my machine, AG521352,as you described on a previous video. When I pull up the Ismac’s site, it tells me singer has removed the info. I tried everything and cannot get the info. Your video that I just watched indicates that I have a model 66 and I think it was made 1945. I started my sewing life with a brand new touch and sew bought in Oceanside, California, about 1965. After I wore it out, I was told it could not be repaired. Hmmm? Anyway, do you think it is now impossible to get correct info about the old machine?
I've checked the serial number. It was allocated to a Singer 66, August 29 1945, part of a batch of 10000. So you are spot on! The information on Ismacs is the same information that would have been previously seen on Singer's site. As far as I know, Ismacs has the complete database. Or at least, as complete as it can be. Even when it was on the Singer site, there were gaps in the information available and some typos too!
Many thanks! I saw this in an old garage that was part of an antique store. I bought it for $35. And then I realized it was the same one my mom had and that I had learned to sew on. I have worn out three machines sewing for my five daughters. Thanks so much! Blessings
I have one. Its missing that metal plate. Maybe a 66? Its in a wooden table. ??(it does have a light) where do i order parts? The belt is too loose its not catching. Need help. TIA
Do you mean the one over the bobbin area? They can be found on eBay. Do you mean the drive belt from the motor to the handwheel? You can get those on eBay too. Or try Amazon. amzn.to/3BZbMXc You'll need to measure the distance from motor to hand wheel to check for fit. They do covers on Amazon to, but they are new reproduction covers: amzn.to/48kjUNQ (amzn affiliate link)
Hey! Recently got a vintage singer machine but can’t find out what model it is, it has sort of square silver decals/engravings. I believe it may be a 99 but I can’t tell, it doesn’t have the same engravings as yours and I can’t quite find any ones like it
Look at the base of the pillar, you should see a serial number. Go to this site: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html and look up the serial number. There's a handy video by a really cool UA-camr showing how to use the database, right at the top of the page. Thanks for watching 🙂
I found this on the ismacs website: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-29-leather-stitching-sewing-machine.html hope it helps. Thanks for watching 🙂
I'm not aware of a Singer factory in Columbia. I know they had one in Brazil. These days Singer machines are mostly made in either Vietnam or China under the SVP banner. That serial number looks to be a modern one. How old is your machine and what model is it?
@@SimplyStitchy will try to get more details for you. This machine has been there since my early childhood and is more than 30 years old. Will try to get more information for you soon. Thank you for the reply.
Yes. But you have to go to the database here: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html to look the serial number up.
Bit hard to say without seeing it. Could be a Singer 15 clone made by a company in Japan. If it is, it will say Made in Japan somewhere on it. These would have been rebadged under the name of a local department store like Sears. Or it could be a nostalgia model from the 1980s. If you look at the base of the pillar, is there a small, black, plastic knob? If there is, it's a reproduction Singer probably made in Taiwan or China.
@@rianvermeulen7969 If it's a Singer 15 or Class 15 machine - no. It's a domestic sewing machine. It can cope with heavy use every now and then... but not all day every day 24/7. You need an industrial machine for industrial use.
I have a 66, without the bobbin case. I purchased one in 2022 on eBay, and It got stuck in Miami. (I live in Rio.) Luckily, eBay reimbursed the money. So disappointing. I have two JA's and two JB's. I guess the 4 are 15's. Am I right? Singer has no information on them. Do you know the model, by looking at these ones?
Without seeing your machines, I can't identify them accurately. JA and JB don't indicate what the machine is. Those are letters in the serial number that identify the factory. In your case, St Jonhs, Canada. See this link: www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/stjohns If the tension assembly is on the faceplate - they are most likely to be Singer 15s. Try this page: www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/gallery_machines Thanks for watching 🙂
This is interesting. I have several older machines and I had a heck of a time identifying them through their serial numbers.
I have a 66-18 with the book and attachments that was gifted to me several years ago. Got me through while mine was being serviced. Then she ended up being my favorite!
The 66 is one of the best! Thanks for sharing and for watching 🙂
Thank you so much for sharing. I Rescued a vintage Singer from being tossed. Because of your video I have identified it as Singer 15-90. I intend to clean it up, order some missing parts and get it running again.
You're welcome! Let me know how you get on! Thanks for watching 🙂
Thank you for sharing! Sewing machine history lesson!❤
I've always wanted a kinda bird id system for early sewing machines, if you have this and this and this, its a singer 66... good job. we are one step closer...
I need help identifying my vintage sewing machine. I have the model number and know the year it was made but idk anything else about it. Made in 1948 and has AH in the beginning of the number. Thank you for all your knowledge here. Very interesting!
I'd need to see photos of the machine and also have the full serial number to be able to help. The AH at the start of the serial number indicates that the machine was possibly built at Elizabethport, New Jersey, but I can't tell much more than that from the info given. Look up the full serial number here: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-ah-series-serial-numbers.html
I identify models this way.
27/127 vs 28/128: the size. Once you touch or see one, the 28 looks like a toy.
27/28 vs 127/128: the position of the bobbin winder, low for de 27-8 and upper position for the 127-8. This family is easy to identify for the sliding plates backwards and forward next to the needle plate, and also the small plate in the front.
15 class: two ways. The sliding plate is larger than the 66/201, and the thread tensioner is on the face plate, in sewing position, at your left, not in front of your nose.
66/99: The thread tensioner is in front of your eyes, short needle plate. In the begining, the stitch lenght is adjusted with a knob, not a lever, before back tack incorporated.
201: The stitch lenght has its own design respect 15/66/99. If you see underbed, two legs on the right side, and the cover for the gear on the left side, capable of sewing without any kind of threadle or base. It has a spool pin on the right side of the bed for winding the bobbin.
Be careful identifying Singer 28s and 128s by the position of the bobbin winder. Some 28s have a high bobbin winder because... well... Singer. Lol.
I've never seen a red eye 66 in the UK, I think it's just the US version that had it. I could be wrong of course, but there's no e on eBay etc over here.
Likewise, the 201s in the UK mostly have the light on the back, and I think I've only ever seen a couple with front light on ebay when I was looking for one.
Are you hoping to get a 201? They're lovely sewers, really smooth. V heavy though!
As far as I know, Redeye decals were only found on Singer 66 in the US. The UK version of the 66 had the Lotus decals. Yes, I'm looking for a 201. But then I'm also looking for a 500, 600E, and a 401 lol... I'm just looking for sewing machines 😆
My 66 doesn’t have the decals but it does have the lever for stitch length and back tack. Oh and I have a light affixed to the back of my machine, but I don’t use it because it gets too hot.
You might be able to swap the bulb out for an LED one. It will depend on the fittings inside the light, but it would reduce some of the heat.
Hi I just purchased an antique singer! If I send you a picture would you be able to tell me what kind I have? It has the double plates .❤❤
Double plates? Do you mean the throat plates extend from the front of the machine all the way across the bed of the machine to to the back? With a long bobbin and a bullet shaped bobbin case? Sounds like a vibrating shuttle. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/nhWYlpBn-xc/v-deo.html
Hello again, sorry to bother you but I would like to ask your advice. I just learned why my 1945 model 66 looks different. It has a crinkle finish because of the war and metal use restrictions. Should I still put new decals on it? I can see they had been there and the front Singer decal is still fair. Do you think the decals will apply as they should. Thank you, Diana
The decals on crinkle finish machines were always a bit more... minimal than other machines. Check out this post over on the SingerSewingInfo site: www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/blackside I personally wouldn't renew the decals. There are a couple of reasons. The first, replacing decals usually involves taking off the shellac and priming the base. It sounds easy but if taking off the shellac damages the crinkle finish... I don't know how easy that will be to replace. There is a risk you might end up having to repaint the whole machine with a different finish. The second, the more restoration work you do, the more history you wipe away. Over-restoring can decrease the value of vintage and antique items dramatically. Ultimately, it's your machine, so it's up to you. But sometimes you need to think about the old adage, if it ain't broke - don't fix it. Hope that helps.
15 class with lever regulator (15-88, 89, 90, 91, 191U, ) have "left type" bobbin case.
Better known as the 11 o'clock bobbin case. My 15K80 has a 1 o'clock bobbin case.
Here in PA, I followed all your instructions to find the year and model number for my machine, AG521352,as you described on a previous video. When I pull up the Ismac’s site, it tells me singer has removed the info. I tried everything and cannot get the info. Your video that I just watched indicates that I have a model 66 and I think it was made 1945. I started my sewing life with a brand new touch and sew bought in Oceanside, California, about 1965. After I wore it out, I was told it could not be repaired. Hmmm? Anyway, do you think it is now impossible to get correct info about the old machine?
I've checked the serial number. It was allocated to a Singer 66, August 29 1945, part of a batch of 10000. So you are spot on! The information on Ismacs is the same information that would have been previously seen on Singer's site. As far as I know, Ismacs has the complete database. Or at least, as complete as it can be. Even when it was on the Singer site, there were gaps in the information available and some typos too!
Many thanks! I saw this in an old garage that was part of an antique store. I bought it for $35. And then I realized it was the same one my mom had and that I had learned to sew on. I have worn out three machines sewing for my five daughters. Thanks so much! Blessings
I have one. Its missing that metal plate. Maybe a 66? Its in a wooden table. ??(it does have a light) where do i order parts? The belt is too loose its not catching. Need help. TIA
Do you mean the one over the bobbin area? They can be found on eBay. Do you mean the drive belt from the motor to the handwheel? You can get those on eBay too. Or try Amazon. amzn.to/3BZbMXc You'll need to measure the distance from motor to hand wheel to check for fit. They do covers on Amazon to, but they are new reproduction covers: amzn.to/48kjUNQ (amzn affiliate link)
I have two older singers can you tell me the year AJ344125, and AJ344125, many thanks look forward to hearing from you
AJ344125 is a serial number in a batch of 15,000 allocated to the Singer 201 on Jan 9th 1950.
Hey! Recently got a vintage singer machine but can’t find out what model it is, it has sort of square silver decals/engravings. I believe it may be a 99 but I can’t tell, it doesn’t have the same engravings as yours and I can’t quite find any ones like it
Look at the base of the pillar, you should see a serial number. Go to this site: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html and look up the serial number. There's a handy video by a really cool UA-camr showing how to use the database, right at the top of the page. Thanks for watching 🙂
I have an industrial singer model serial number 29-4. Can you tell me anything about that model?
I found this on the ismacs website: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-29-leather-stitching-sewing-machine.html hope it helps. Thanks for watching 🙂
Hi, i have a singer and the serial is ATWZLB12-11-100. Manufactured in Colombia. Could you please clarify which category does this belong to?
I'm not aware of a Singer factory in Columbia. I know they had one in Brazil. These days Singer machines are mostly made in either Vietnam or China under the SVP banner. That serial number looks to be a modern one. How old is your machine and what model is it?
@@SimplyStitchy will try to get more details for you. This machine has been there since my early childhood and is more than 30 years old. Will try to get more information for you soon. Thank you for the reply.
Can you tell the year of the machine by the serial number plate?
I cannot tell which one mine is is his singer on one side and slugger on the back side and it's in a table mount
Yes. But you have to go to the database here: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html to look the serial number up.
I'm not aware of any Singer that had slugger on the back. What is the serial number?
My wifes Singer have a plate that says NL-K 6338429 what machine is this
Bit hard to say without seeing it. Could be a Singer 15 clone made by a company in Japan. If it is, it will say Made in Japan somewhere on it. These would have been rebadged under the name of a local department store like Sears. Or it could be a nostalgia model from the 1980s. If you look at the base of the pillar, is there a small, black, plastic knob? If there is, it's a reproduction Singer probably made in Taiwan or China.
@@SimplyStitchy okay, can i use it for industrial use?
@@rianvermeulen7969 If it's a Singer 15 or Class 15 machine - no. It's a domestic sewing machine. It can cope with heavy use every now and then... but not all day every day 24/7. You need an industrial machine for industrial use.
I have a 66, without the bobbin case. I purchased one in 2022 on eBay, and It got stuck in Miami. (I live in Rio.) Luckily, eBay reimbursed the money. So disappointing.
I have two JA's and two JB's. I guess the 4 are 15's. Am I right? Singer has no information on them. Do you know the model, by looking at these ones?
Without seeing your machines, I can't identify them accurately. JA and JB don't indicate what the machine is. Those are letters in the serial number that identify the factory. In your case, St Jonhs, Canada. See this link: www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/stjohns If the tension assembly is on the faceplate - they are most likely to be Singer 15s. Try this page: www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/gallery_machines Thanks for watching 🙂