Thx! This tip with disconnecting the DME connector was exactly what I was looking for since I didn’t pull fuse 165 and run the car out of fuel in the fuel injectors prior to starting. Also didn’t feel like removing pipes, etc in order to get to all of the coils and fuel injector connectors either. Much simpler approach. Great idea.
great video and thank you....I have a 2011 135i (with the DCT trans) with the N55 but my harness seems to be vertical and yours seems horizontal....I am having a hard time disconnecting the harness and the clip seems to be towards the driverr side...Any thoughts based on your experience? thank you in advance.
Thanks! There is no need to do oil priming with a valve cover or plug replacement. You want to prime with any repair that interrupts the oil circuit. Oil Pan, oil filter housing, vanos units for example.
im about to DIY oil filter housing gasket and mosselman thermostat just wondering can I actually create some oil pressure with rotating the engine with hand ? to purge the system from air?@@AskTheCarExperts
Would adding an oil additive like LiquiMoly Cera Tec be advisable to the initial oil fill up (5w30) before stepping through the oil priming procedure on a new engine and for the initial 500mi. engine break in?
Hi Patrick, I would say yes to that! I have started using Cera Tec in my BMW E70 with the N55 notorious for lower end problems. I am hoping the additive will also help prolong the engine life and turbo life. Prevents direct metal-to-metal contact, thus increasing the engine service life. The low-friction effect reduces fuel consumption in gasoline and diesel engines. CERA TEC provides wear protection for engines, transmissions, pumps and compressors. CERA TEC should be added to the oil and is self-mixing. If anyone is looking for this product I will provide a link below: amzn.to/3Rnwcyj I do make a small commission if the link is used but it does not cost you anything.
hey man I have a question, just installed new timing chain with guides, also cam ledge trays and new seals for camshafts , I turned the motor clockwise twice to see if I’m good on timing , timing is there , the car has been sitting for over a year , do you recommend priming the motor a couple times before actually starting it? Keeping the coils and injectors disconnected?
Im new to BMW's and just swapped a N55 in an X5. Where can I monitor oil pressure in real-time while priming? Will this show up in ISTA? I just installed it on my laptop and I have the interface cable.
Great video! I’m doing my OFHG and cooler gaskets soon. The BMW bulletin I read on priming talks about removing the fuel pump fuse but I’m also reading some people do that and car still starts so I’m not sure if I should try that method or not. I noticed you’re doing the manual engine cranking AND the other priming method (10 on 20 off…) is the manual turning of the engine required then? If so, what size of bit do you need to do that?
Hi Keith! Yes I would recommend the manual engine turning. This is BMW's updated procedure. I think it is a 21 or 22 mm socket if my memory serves. Best to remove the DME connector because this will cut spark and fuel completely and will prevent it starting on you. Or you can manually disconnect each coil and injector plug.
@@AskTheCarExperts the BMW bulletin I saw was from 2016 and like I said, it just mentions the fuel pump fuses. So does manually turning the engine 2-3x, actually cause the oil pump to pick up oil then and lubricate things? For some reason I figured the oil pump was electric so wasn’t sure what the manual turning was doing.
I had removed the DME connector but I can't put it back on. The connector goes on but I don't feel the pins being inserted? How do I know when the connector is connected? When I have the connector on the slider won't slide back in. I don't want to force it. What do you recommend?
@positivethinking2721 Sorry to hear that. Don't force it. Check for any debris that may have gotten into the DME connection. Make sure it is the correct plug as well. If you unplugged more than one connection it may be the other connector. with the lock slid back it should rest in place and then the slider is pushed and it should sink down.
@@AskTheCarExperts I appreciate your prompt reply. I had taken the connector off that is closest to the firewall (only one connector) and turned the engine the 3 (10) sec intervals as required for the oil prime procedure. That worked but I can't get the connector back on to slide the slider back in. The pins are all in a single row all around the edge of the module. So, when I put the connector back on I don't have to push the pins in? I put the connector on and tried to start the car and it sputtered. Maybe because I first tried removing the two fuses to the fuel line # 139 & # 184 but the engine turned on so I put the fuses back in and disconnected the DME module to the fuel/injector rail)
@@positivethinking2721 The connector pulls into place as the slide like is locked. Disconnect another connector so you can review how it comes off and goes on. Then try again.
Thx! This tip with disconnecting the DME connector was exactly what I was looking for since I didn’t pull fuse 165 and run the car out of fuel in the fuel injectors prior to starting. Also didn’t feel like removing pipes, etc in order to get to all of the coils and fuel injector connectors either. Much simpler approach. Great idea.
Great to hear the tip helped! Thanks for subscribing!
great video and thank you....I have a 2011 135i (with the DCT trans) with the N55 but my harness seems to be vertical and yours seems horizontal....I am having a hard time disconnecting the harness and the clip seems to be towards the driverr side...Any thoughts based on your experience? thank you in advance.
best tutorial on youtube regarding this topic. Do we have to prime the N55 after replacing valve cover and spark plugs? thanks!
Thanks! There is no need to do oil priming with a valve cover or plug replacement. You want to prime with any repair that interrupts the oil circuit. Oil Pan, oil filter housing, vanos units for example.
@@AskTheCarExperts thank you
`excellent tutorial... Roger .. thank you
Thanks bud! Thanks for watching and commenting on my videos!
thank you for good info.
Glad it was helpful!
im about to DIY oil filter housing gasket and mosselman thermostat just wondering can I actually create some oil pressure with rotating the engine with hand ? to purge the system from air?@@AskTheCarExperts
Would adding an oil additive like LiquiMoly Cera Tec be advisable to the initial oil fill up (5w30) before stepping through the oil priming procedure on a new engine and for the initial 500mi. engine break in?
Hi Patrick, I would say yes to that! I have started using Cera Tec in my BMW E70 with the N55 notorious for lower end problems. I am hoping the additive will also help prolong the engine life and turbo life.
Prevents direct metal-to-metal contact, thus increasing the engine service life. The low-friction effect reduces fuel consumption in gasoline and diesel engines. CERA TEC provides wear protection for engines, transmissions, pumps and compressors. CERA TEC should be added to the oil and is self-mixing.
If anyone is looking for this product I will provide a link below:
amzn.to/3Rnwcyj
I do make a small commission if the link is used but it does not cost you anything.
Excellent tip. Thanks for sharing. I'm curious though, did you have a battery charger connected? Wouldn't it drain the battery without it?
@@HamidRHariri I would recommend a battery charger. Or at least fully charge the battery and after. Great question!
hey man I have a question, just installed new timing chain with guides, also cam ledge trays and new seals for camshafts , I turned the motor clockwise twice to see if I’m good on timing , timing is there , the car has been sitting for over a year , do you recommend priming the motor a couple times before actually starting it? Keeping the coils and injectors disconnected?
Sorry for the late response, Yes absolutely do the oil priming.
Im new to BMW's and just swapped a N55 in an X5. Where can I monitor oil pressure in real-time while priming? Will this show up in ISTA? I just installed it on my laptop and I have the interface cable.
@@chipjumper You may be able to see it under DME and pull up the live data.
Great video! I’m doing my OFHG and cooler gaskets soon. The BMW bulletin I read on priming talks about removing the fuel pump fuse but I’m also reading some people do that and car still starts so I’m not sure if I should try that method or not. I noticed you’re doing the manual engine cranking AND the other priming method (10 on 20 off…) is the manual turning of the engine required then? If so, what size of bit do you need to do that?
Hi Keith! Yes I would recommend the manual engine turning. This is BMW's updated procedure. I think it is a 21 or 22 mm socket if my memory serves. Best to remove the DME connector because this will cut spark and fuel completely and will prevent it starting on you. Or you can manually disconnect each coil and injector plug.
@@AskTheCarExperts the BMW bulletin I saw was from 2016 and like I said, it just mentions the fuel pump fuses. So does manually turning the engine 2-3x, actually cause the oil pump to pick up oil then and lubricate things? For some reason I figured the oil pump was electric so wasn’t sure what the manual turning was doing.
I had removed the DME connector but I can't put it back on. The connector goes on but I don't feel the pins being inserted? How do I know when the connector is connected? When I have the connector on the slider won't slide back in. I don't want to force it. What do you recommend?
@positivethinking2721 Sorry to hear that. Don't force it. Check for any debris that may have gotten into the DME connection. Make sure it is the correct plug as well. If you unplugged more than one connection it may be the other connector. with the lock slid back it should rest in place and then the slider is pushed and it should sink down.
@@AskTheCarExperts I appreciate your prompt reply. I had taken the connector off that is closest to the firewall (only one connector) and turned the engine the 3 (10) sec intervals as required for the oil prime procedure. That worked but I can't get the connector back on to slide the slider back in. The pins are all in a single row all around the edge of the module. So, when I put the connector back on I don't have to push the pins in? I put the connector on and tried to start the car and it sputtered. Maybe because I first tried removing the two fuses to the fuel line # 139 & # 184 but the engine turned on so I put the fuses back in and disconnected the DME module to the fuel/injector rail)
@@positivethinking2721 The connector pulls into place as the slide like is locked. Disconnect another connector so you can review how it comes off and goes on. Then try again.
What about during an oil change??
Great question. If the oil has been drained for a long time I would do an oil prime. But for a normal service it is not required.
Mind won’t start until I step on the brake pedal. Should do the same thing correct?
Correct, foot on brake to crank the engine over during the cranking part of the procedure.
Can you do an oil filter housing replacement video i can do it but theres like two bolts that i cant get to
And oil cooler
I have a few videos on that actually. This is the N55 version.
ua-cam.com/video/PDteS75j4_w/v-deo.html
Is changing the oil filter make it necessary to prime the circuit?
Do I have to do this with a N54 ?
Hello, Yes this would be done on ANY engine when the oil circuit is interrupted after a repair or an engine is replaced.
Do i need to get this done if i only upgraded to BMS oil thermostat valve & not Mosselman oil cooler
@kjosephf Yes, With an oil cooler install you should do the oil priming.