so glad I came across your channel Greg. Your videos are excellent and cover every little detail with superb practical demonstrations .Thank you for all the hard work you have put into these videos over the years for novice Archers like me . I am an instinctive archer and I'm currently struggling with my gap on a very hilly 45+ target 3D Field Archery course , some of the targets are at 60+ meters . I use a 35# flatbow bow with a 30" draw so probably around 39-40# draw weight. Arrows are wood 5'16th ,30" 125g point and they are dropping like a stone after 20 meters . I shall experiment with the string nock position and point weights but I suspect I am going to have to move to a 45# flatbow if I am going to get a flatter trajectory.
Really nice video design, Greg. This is an excellent overview of how form and equipment factors can affect arrow flight and impact point. It is easy to see how a newer archer, with inconsistent form (ie, variations if bow hand grip, different release hand style (three finger vs split finger), varying bow poundage (or, by analogy, draw length shot to shot giving different bow poundage), inconsistent arrow choice, varying anchor point) can throw arrows all over the target. This video should be a "must see" for all new trad archers. Good job, Greg.
I began teaching my Bare Bow Archers Gap method and what a difference in the arrows not being on the ground versus into the target. As time goes on I can only imagine their progress.
difference in split and 3under can also be because of the tiller of the bow. most trad bows are tillered for a split fingerdraw. with modern recurve bows you can adjust tiller to compensate for this
+mathijs175 I spoke to Bear and several other manufacturers and I was informed that they do not make their bows for any one style of shooting. A custom bowyer yes. Even if the bow was not made for it, you can adjust the GAP by playing with where you nock the arrow.
No it is not. it is based off "hand, eye coordination" the closer the hand to the arrow, the easier it is for your mind to "figure" it out. It is like pointing. If you point with you hand up level with your eye, it will naturally be closer to what you are pointing at then if you held your hand by your waist and pointed.
Thanks Greg - a very useful demo and I made lots of notes. The other thing that affects your gap of course is distance from the target, all other factors being equal, because of the arrow's parabolic trajectory. The gap starts off very small near the target, gets bigger and bigger and then gets smaller until it reaches point on. After that you are aiming increasingly above where you want to hit with distance. BTW I am a habitual split-fingered gap-shooter and | hope to use your lessons to help me adjust my point on distance without having to resort to three-under, string walking or face walking. Just as a side question, do you find yourself swapping between techniques to suit a particular situation or just sticking with one style? Cheers and well done!
Greg, I really like your videos. Here's something to try with your 47# bow try a 10gr per pound of arrow weight then your 38# bow try a 10gr per pound of arrow weight and see how much difference they shoot. I would think speed wise and gap would be pretty close. Thank you. Alan
Do you mean traditional archery competitions?... aluminium risers are designed to use plungers and adjustable arrow rests for optimum performance and from what i,ve seen, traditional competition say plungers and adjustable arow rests are not allowed. Nothing i,ve seen in rules specify that the riser must be made of wood..So I think as long as you shoot off the shelf it could be allowed but still looking to have this confirmed..Either way I think if you turned up to a trad competition with an aluminium riser you would be frowned upon..cant wait to try it...)
@@dusanpavlovic2201 Ah..must depend on the organisation info I read didnt specify riser other than must have no markings..i,m just interested to find a basic bow competition that only permits split finger or at least does not allow string walking but still allows my aluminium riser, rest and plunger..so far ive found a recurve bowhunter class competition that allows it but looking to find more.
Awesome question with no clear answer. here is why: It all depends on what I want to do. For me, I have two basic setups, 3D and Indoor Target. For 3D I like a bow in the 40 to 47 Pound range. I also want my Point on to be at 30 yards (which is the maximum distance at most shoots). For Indoor Target, I like my bows to be in the 35 to 40 range. I want my point on at 20 yards. On both of these, my point on distance will dictate my nock points position. Which means I run a pretty high nock point. I really have no set notions on what my setups "Should" be, I just shoot some arrows and see what happens and make adjustments from there. As for arrows, I really do not like having a different set of different arrows for every bow. I try my best to stick with one arrow for all of them. And, that for me is the Gold Tip Traditional XT 600's. What I do adjust is the weight point, for any "fine Tuning". With most of my bows I get satisfactory performance with a 200 grain point. Now, with my high nock point it is pretty much impossible to get cleanflight, so I rely on feathers big time. I use four feathers for one reason only: they show up better on camera. The other arrow I use is the Predator II by Carbon Express in 800 spine with a 125 grain point. Much lighter and ths a larger GAP, but sometimes I will take that in exchange for nice arrow flight. Not worried about speed, poundage etc. All I look for is the arrow hitting where I want in a acceptable flight. Does any of that make sense to you?
Archery 101 Yes and Thank you for your reply. Ive killed 8 deer all instinctive shooting and now would like to learn gap, fixed crawl and have fun target shooting too.
Perspective. The longer the arrow, the "closer" it will be to the target in your eye, hence a smaller GAP. You can see what I mean by pointing at something with your arm fully extended and again with it bent.
+Diggs5012 I do not know the numbers off hand. But those the length, next to how close you can get the arrow by the eye is the biggest factors. Great suggestion, I will have to do some checking and see what numbers i get.
Dominant eye is debatable. If you shoot with booth eyes open it should not matter. I shoot both left and right handed and see no difference. I guess it is a mtter of personal preference.
You mentioned that you used a 600 spine arrow where some charts would suggest a 400 spine arrow with 47 lb draw-weight bow and a 500 in the 38 lb draw-weight bow. What did you discover in trying different arrow spines that works best for your bows...?
What I found out is that the charts are made taking a few things for granted. 1) The cut of the bow and 2) String material. Old wooden bows are not cut to or past center and most can on use dacron strings. There is a rule which the charts do not tell you, that is the bow is not cut to center, you need to subtract five pounds off your draw weight. Also, if you are not using a FF string, then you need to subtract five pounds from your draw weight. My bows are both, so I really need to look for arrows for a bow ten pound lighter. The big thing I have found is that depending on how accurate you want to be will determine how much you need to worry about those"little" things.
Greg, How similar would the gap be when comparing the heavy bow/arrow combination to the lighter bow/arrow? Will matching the arrow to the bow, i.e. grains per pound and/or spine, help flatten out the difference between bows of different poundage?
+Bruce Mahar Good Question, I have not tested that and cannot give you a definate answer. I can say this: 1) Most of my GAPS are in the same range (a few inches of each other) using heavy and light weight arrows (with bows ranging from 40 to 47 Pounds). 2) There will always be a difference, it is just a matter of how much. 3) The biggest thing (read most important) you can do is select the proper arrow for whatever bow you are using. When people say that bow shoots right where you are looking, it is not the bow, it is the arrow! We stress too much on the bow and not enough on the arrow.
I am currently using samick sage 45lb. 500 spine 29 1/2" arrow 125gr. fastflight string shooting gap , I'm thinking about using 400 spine leaving them uncut do you think that will help with my gap ? e
My biggest question right after this video is shelf / rest height... if adjusting the tail end between split and 3 under makes a big difference... How much does changing the tip height via rest height change the gap. Big question being... should I put a stick on rest on my riser or shoot off the shelf. If I add a rest will it's placement high or low help my gaps?
I wondered the same thing, and for me, the rest made no difference in my GAP. Changing the tip can affect it, but that is mainly to get the arrow to fly right.
Hi Greg, I'm a little confused. If the higher poundage bow gives a flatter trajectory then why did your arrow go higher than the lower poundage bow when you loosed it? Is it because of the short distance not enabling the arrow to flatten out? Love your videos by the way
+John Richichi You hit it. A higher poundage bow might climb up faster, It will then flatten out faster too. A lower poundage bow will have a more pronounced arc. It would really show up in the farther ranges.
Hey! Really been enjoying your vids...especially on gap shooting. Learning a lot (noob here) but wanted to ask you a quick question. What would be a good arrow for me for practice in order to keep gap as small as possible for 10 to 25 yards; 28" draw, 35# vintage ben pearson cobra 66". Want to keep arrow long of course, and like idea of carbon. Want as cost effective as possible, but not cheap and unreliable. Your thoughts for length, weight, spine, weight of point, etc? Thanks! Doug
Are you going to use the bow to hunt, for Competition or fun? Also how accurate do you want to be? I would keep the arrows full length, it just makes life easier and if you damage them, you can always cut them down, sure it changes the GAP, but it saves money. As for spine, I would say at least a 600. As for points, I would set the arrow up and shoot 100 grains from it and see how they fly and go from there. As for the arrow: Tough call, I love Gold Tip Traditional XT's. while not the cheapest, they are not the most expensive either. One thing you can do is buy "Blems". These have a finish defect and are sold at a lower price than usual. I also like Carbon Express predator II, reasonable price and them work in such a wide range of bows. Down side is they are not as compatible with other arrows. The GT Trads use the same point as any other arrow, the Predators require special inserts and point. Now for the GAP it self. To keep it small you want a light weight bow (like a 35) and the heaviest arrow you can get to fly straight. The heavier arrow will mean a larger trajectory and hence a smaller GAP. You can also play with the location of your Nocking Point on the string to make your GAP smaller. Hope this helps
Hi Greg, Thanks for your reply! I'm just doing for fun with my daughter. Right now just shooting the big 24 X 24 archery bag I bought at close distance to work on form and consistency. Want to work up to longer distances, finding point ons, tweaking things, maybe building own arrows later, just learning and having fun. I want to get to be accurate enough to enjoy it. Maybe 8" groups out to 30 yards some day. Like to try 3D at some point, but only for fun. As a long time handgun and rifle guy, that's a bit OCD on top of it, doing something "instinctive" isn't going to work. Need to "aim" at something...if you know what I mean. Predators seem reasonably priced. Would you go with 800 spine, the 2040, or 3050 version? I''ve got some fletched 2040 CE whitetail arrows (28") that came with daughters sage that seem to work pretty good with my bow too (a bit short and I think more entry level than predators). I think you had the 800 spine with 125 tip in this vid (364 weight)....not sure what would be best for me 35# with 28" draw. Appreciate your help, my brain is numb from reading forum posts on this subject and much conflicting info. Thx!
If you are just learning and shooting from short distance, i would stick with what you have. Jimmy Blackmon has the acronym of RAT (Repeatable Shot Cycle, Aim, Tune). That is the order he says to do things and I agree. Work on a shot cycle, get one down you feel comfortable with, then work on aiming, then, once you have that then you tune to arrows to the bow. Stick with what you have and when you start to move out farther, you will be able to see how you arrows are flying and you will be able to make a better decision on which way to go arrow wise. I too need to aim, it puts me at ease knowing what I have to do. I like reading the forums, I just take most of what they say with a grain of salt. Sometimes i wonder how well they can really shoot given some of the stuff they say.
More great advice. Will need to buy some arrows...daughter only has 6 and I want to each have our own. I'm going to order half dozen of the full length 800 spine CE predator with feather fletching. I think very similar to ones used in your "light arrow" / "heavier arrow" example in vid (the lighter one). Is it true that you can go with heavier spine on recurves cut to or past center? I've read that, and it seems to make sense....given the arrow doesn't need to "bend" around the riser as much. My daughter's Samick sage is cut past, but don't think my Ben Pearson Cobra is. Lastly....I'd love to know when my Ben Pearson was made, but best I can find online is a list of old catalogs (very large files to download too). The ones I could get to download and open were no help at all. Just curious if you know a better way. Thanks again!!
I have been a subscriber and a big admirer of yours for awhile now , I am getting ready to buy some arrows I usually shoot 29 1/2" , sounds like your saying I shouldn't cut them down at all ?
I'm a brand new traditional shooter. So, is the goal to keep the gap as small as possible? Is that considered more attractive? I ask because I'm now considering three under grip.
Good question. A smaller GAP is easier for you to estimate, but it is not mandatory. For example, This is how I set my GAP. I set my Point on at 30 yards - this is how far the farthest target is in most 3D Archery shoots, this will then dictate the size of my GAP for all other ranges.
+Lieuwe Henstra Depends on what you think "influence" is. By canting the bow all your doing is changing your relationship to it. Not the flight of the arrow. Instead of a vertical trajectory (In relationship to you), it will then have a diagonal one. A bunch of Trad shooters like to cant the bow. Personal choice really.
Hi Greg. just wanted to know. I shoot instinctively and want to try split vision. Do I have to learn gap first or can I start split vision now? If I can, how do I start?
You can go right to Split Vision. When you shoot, still look at the target, but also be aware of where the point of the arrow is. If you hit good, try to put the point there again. If not adjust of that point. It can really make you better once you find that point.
+Archery 101 So if I get it- I don't need to find my gap first, just shoot instinctively but be aware of where the arrow is pointing so I can currect accordingly. When using split vision, is there a benefit for 3-under over split-finger?
At 12 minutes into the video you used index finger in corner of mouth to shoot, then you said index finger in corner of mouth and shot the next shaft 5" lower? Thought you were comparing index to middle finger??
thanks, today was my first competition, done very well in part due to watching this channel.
Congratulations!
so glad I came across your channel Greg. Your videos are excellent and cover every little detail with superb practical demonstrations .Thank you for all the hard work you have put into these videos over the years for novice Archers like me .
I am an instinctive archer and I'm currently struggling with my gap on a very hilly 45+ target 3D Field Archery course , some of the targets are at 60+ meters .
I use a 35# flatbow bow with a 30" draw so probably around 39-40# draw weight. Arrows are wood 5'16th ,30" 125g point and they are dropping like a stone after 20 meters . I shall experiment with the string nock position and point weights but I suspect I am going to have to move to a 45# flatbow if I am going to get a flatter trajectory.
Well done greg,very informative, very impressive, love it.
Really nice video design, Greg. This is an excellent overview of how form and equipment factors can affect arrow flight and impact point. It is easy to see how a newer archer, with inconsistent form (ie, variations if bow hand grip, different release hand style (three finger vs split finger), varying bow poundage (or, by analogy, draw length shot to shot giving different bow poundage), inconsistent arrow choice, varying anchor point) can throw arrows all over the target. This video should be a "must see" for all new trad archers. Good job, Greg.
Thanks for answering the canting question. I need to try to stick to the gap shooting for consistency and increased confidence.
Excellent video. Thanks very much
Very good choice on your topics on here. I have some night shooting to go do now. Thanks for the examples to follow👍
Great video. I'm going to try it out. Thanks
Thanks, Greg!
I began teaching my Bare Bow Archers Gap method and what a difference in the arrows not being on the ground versus into the target. As time goes on I can only imagine their progress.
difference in split and 3under can also be because of the tiller of the bow. most trad bows are tillered for a split fingerdraw.
with modern recurve bows you can adjust tiller to compensate for this
+mathijs175
I spoke to Bear and several other manufacturers and I was informed that they do not make their bows for any one style of shooting. A custom bowyer yes. Even if the bow was not made for it, you can adjust the GAP by playing with where you nock the arrow.
Most factory bows are tillered " middle of the road " so you can use them for both styles perfectly
Superbly informative!!!! Thanks Gregg
At 14:18 you mentioned how far your hand is from the shelf affecting the gap. Is this discussed anywhere else in the video?
No it is not. it is based off "hand, eye coordination" the closer the hand to the arrow, the easier it is for your mind to "figure" it out. It is like pointing. If you point with you hand up level with your eye, it will naturally be closer to what you are pointing at then if you held your hand by your waist and pointed.
Thanks Greg - a very useful demo and I made lots of notes. The other thing that affects your gap of course is distance from the target, all other factors being equal, because of the arrow's parabolic trajectory. The gap starts off very small near the target, gets bigger and bigger and then gets smaller until it reaches point on. After that you are aiming increasingly above where you want to hit with distance. BTW I am a habitual split-fingered gap-shooter and | hope to use your lessons to help me adjust my point on distance without having to resort to three-under, string walking or face walking. Just as a side question, do you find yourself swapping between techniques to suit a particular situation or just sticking with one style? Cheers and well done!
Greg, I really like your videos. Here's something to try with your 47# bow try a 10gr per pound of arrow weight then your 38# bow try a 10gr per pound of arrow weight and see how much difference they shoot. I would think speed wise and gap would be pretty close. Thank you. Alan
great video. thanks. really helped me understand how to deal with gaps. 👍
I would add "fixed crawl". Hypothesis: By using a "fixed crawl" you can optimize your gap for your most typical shooting range.
why no one uses aluminum risers in instinctive archery competitions if they are better than wooden ones is it prohibited or what?
Do you mean traditional archery competitions?... aluminium risers are designed to use plungers and adjustable arrow rests for optimum performance and from what i,ve seen, traditional competition say plungers and adjustable arow rests are not allowed. Nothing i,ve seen in rules specify that the riser must be made of wood..So I think as long as you shoot off the shelf it could be allowed but still looking to have this confirmed..Either way I think if you turned up to a trad competition with an aluminium riser you would be frowned upon..cant wait to try it...)
@@middleagedshred i looked it up it actually is not allowed
@@dusanpavlovic2201 Ah..must depend on the organisation info I read didnt specify riser other than must have no markings..i,m just interested to find a basic bow competition that only permits split finger or at least does not allow string walking but still allows my aluminium riser, rest and plunger..so far ive found a recurve bowhunter class competition that allows it but looking to find more.
So what of all these combinations would you put together for the optimum shooting for you? What bow, arrow, nock point and all would you use?🤷♂️
Awesome question with no clear answer. here is why:
It all depends on what I want to do. For me, I have two basic setups, 3D and Indoor Target.
For 3D I like a bow in the 40 to 47 Pound range. I also want my Point on to be at 30 yards (which is the maximum distance at most shoots).
For Indoor Target, I like my bows to be in the 35 to 40 range. I want my point on at 20 yards.
On both of these, my point on distance will dictate my nock points position. Which means I run a pretty high nock point.
I really have no set notions on what my setups "Should" be, I just shoot some arrows and see what happens and make adjustments from there.
As for arrows, I really do not like having a different set of different arrows for every bow. I try my best to stick with one arrow for all of them.
And, that for me is the Gold Tip Traditional XT 600's. What I do adjust is the weight point, for any "fine Tuning". With most of my bows I get satisfactory performance with a 200 grain point.
Now, with my high nock point it is pretty much impossible to get cleanflight, so I rely on feathers big time. I use four feathers for one reason only: they show up better on camera.
The other arrow I use is the Predator II by Carbon Express in 800 spine with a 125 grain point.
Much lighter and ths a larger GAP, but sometimes I will take that in exchange for nice arrow flight.
Not worried about speed, poundage etc. All I look for is the arrow hitting where I want in a acceptable flight.
Does any of that make sense to you?
Archery 101 Yes and Thank you for your reply.
Ive killed 8 deer all instinctive shooting and now would like to learn gap, fixed crawl and have fun target shooting too.
Hi, you didn't get into details of how longer arrows make the gap smaller.. Thx
Perspective. The longer the arrow, the "closer" it will be to the target in your eye, hence a smaller GAP. You can see what I mean by pointing at something with your arm fully extended and again with it bent.
Perfect timing on this video. how much does arrow length and tip grain effect the "picture" in the gap?
+Diggs5012
I do not know the numbers off hand. But those the length, next to how close you can get the arrow by the eye is the biggest factors. Great suggestion, I will have to do some checking and see what numbers i get.
+Archery 101 Yes. im left eye dominant and wonder if that also matters...dominant eye?
Dominant eye is debatable. If you shoot with booth eyes open it should not matter. I shoot both left and right handed and see no difference. I guess it is a mtter of personal preference.
You mentioned that you used a 600 spine arrow where some charts would suggest a 400 spine arrow with 47 lb draw-weight bow and a 500 in the 38 lb draw-weight bow. What did you discover in trying different arrow spines that works best for your bows...?
What I found out is that the charts are made taking a few things for granted. 1) The cut of the bow and 2) String material. Old wooden bows are not cut to or past center and most can on use dacron strings. There is a rule which the charts do not tell you, that is the bow is not cut to center, you need to subtract five pounds off your draw weight. Also, if you are not using a FF string, then you need to subtract five pounds from your draw weight. My bows are both, so I really need to look for arrows for a bow ten pound lighter.
The big thing I have found is that depending on how accurate you want to be will determine how much you need to worry about those"little" things.
Archery 101 i
Also why did you not use the 800 spine arrow in the 38 lb bow as a demonstration...?
Because the 600'd fly really good out of them. I use what works, regardless of spine. and those work really good.
what is the distance from the target????
Greg, How similar would the gap be when comparing the heavy bow/arrow combination to the lighter bow/arrow? Will matching the arrow to the bow, i.e. grains per pound and/or spine, help flatten out the difference between bows of different poundage?
+Bruce Mahar
Good Question, I have not tested that and cannot give you a definate answer. I can say this:
1) Most of my GAPS are in the same range (a few inches of each other) using heavy and light weight arrows (with bows ranging from 40 to 47 Pounds).
2) There will always be a difference, it is just a matter of how much.
3) The biggest thing (read most important) you can do is select the proper arrow for whatever bow you are using. When people say that bow shoots right where you are looking, it is not the bow, it is the arrow! We stress too much on the bow and not enough on the arrow.
I am currently using samick sage 45lb. 500 spine 29 1/2" arrow 125gr. fastflight string shooting gap , I'm thinking about using 400 spine leaving them uncut do you think that will help with my gap ?
e
The longer the arrow, the smaller the GAP. So, yes, it should help.
My biggest question right after this video is shelf / rest height... if adjusting the tail end between split and 3 under makes a big difference... How much does changing the tip height via rest height change the gap. Big question being... should I put a stick on rest on my riser or shoot off the shelf. If I add a rest will it's placement high or low help my gaps?
I wondered the same thing, and for me, the rest made no difference in my GAP. Changing the tip can affect it, but that is mainly to get the arrow to fly right.
Great Info. Just have a question, does the lenght of the bow (AMO) make a difference in gap? Thanks in advance
No it does not. The main thing that can make a difference is the length of the arrow.
Thanks Greg!!
Hi Greg, I'm a little confused. If the higher poundage bow gives a flatter trajectory then why did your arrow go higher than the lower poundage bow when you loosed it? Is it because of the short distance not enabling the arrow to flatten out? Love your videos by the way
+John Richichi
You hit it. A higher poundage bow might climb up faster, It will then flatten out faster too. A lower poundage bow will have a more pronounced arc. It would really show up in the farther ranges.
+Archery 101 Thank you for your reply.
Hey! Really been enjoying your vids...especially on gap shooting. Learning a lot (noob here) but wanted to ask you a quick question. What would be a good arrow for me for practice in order to keep gap as small as possible for 10 to 25 yards; 28" draw, 35# vintage ben pearson cobra 66". Want to keep arrow long of course, and like idea of carbon. Want as cost effective as possible, but not cheap and unreliable. Your thoughts for length, weight, spine, weight of point, etc? Thanks! Doug
Are you going to use the bow to hunt, for Competition or fun? Also how accurate do you want to be?
I would keep the arrows full length, it just makes life easier and if you damage them, you can always cut them down, sure it changes the GAP, but it saves money.
As for spine, I would say at least a 600. As for points, I would set the arrow up and shoot 100 grains from it and see how they fly and go from there.
As for the arrow: Tough call, I love Gold Tip Traditional XT's. while not the cheapest, they are not the most expensive either. One thing you can do is buy "Blems". These have a finish defect and are sold at a lower price than usual. I also like Carbon Express predator II, reasonable price and them work in such a wide range of bows. Down side is they are not as compatible with other arrows. The GT Trads use the same point as any other arrow, the Predators require special inserts and point.
Now for the GAP it self. To keep it small you want a light weight bow (like a 35) and the heaviest arrow you can get to fly straight. The heavier arrow will mean a larger trajectory and hence a smaller GAP.
You can also play with the location of your Nocking Point on the string to make your GAP smaller.
Hope this helps
Hi Greg,
Thanks for your reply! I'm just doing for fun with my daughter. Right now just shooting the big 24 X 24 archery bag I bought at close distance to work on form and consistency. Want to work up to longer distances, finding point ons, tweaking things, maybe building own arrows later, just learning and having fun. I want to get to be accurate enough to enjoy it. Maybe 8" groups out to 30 yards some day. Like to try 3D at some point, but only for fun. As a long time handgun and rifle guy, that's a bit OCD on top of it, doing something "instinctive" isn't going to work. Need to "aim" at something...if you know what I mean. Predators seem reasonably priced. Would you go with 800 spine, the 2040, or 3050 version? I''ve got some fletched 2040 CE whitetail arrows (28") that came with daughters sage that seem to work pretty good with my bow too (a bit short and I think more entry level than predators). I think you had the 800 spine with 125 tip in this vid (364 weight)....not sure what would be best for me 35# with 28" draw. Appreciate your help, my brain is numb from reading forum posts on this subject and much conflicting info. Thx!
If you are just learning and shooting from short distance, i would stick with what you have. Jimmy Blackmon has the acronym of RAT (Repeatable Shot Cycle, Aim, Tune). That is the order he says to do things and I agree. Work on a shot cycle, get one down you feel comfortable with, then work on aiming, then, once you have that then you tune to arrows to the bow. Stick with what you have and when you start to move out farther, you will be able to see how you arrows are flying and you will be able to make a better decision on which way to go arrow wise.
I too need to aim, it puts me at ease knowing what I have to do.
I like reading the forums, I just take most of what they say with a grain of salt. Sometimes i wonder how well they can really shoot given some of the stuff they say.
More great advice. Will need to buy some arrows...daughter only has 6 and I want to each have our own. I'm going to order half dozen of the full length 800 spine CE predator with feather fletching. I think very similar to ones used in your "light arrow" / "heavier arrow" example in vid (the lighter one). Is it true that you can go with heavier spine on recurves cut to or past center? I've read that, and it seems to make sense....given the arrow doesn't need to "bend" around the riser as much. My daughter's Samick sage is cut past, but don't think my Ben Pearson Cobra is. Lastly....I'd love to know when my Ben Pearson was made, but best I can find online is a list of old catalogs (very large files to download too). The ones I could get to download and open were no help at all. Just curious if you know a better way. Thanks again!!
Thank you.
great video
I have been a subscriber and a big admirer of yours for awhile now , I am getting ready to buy some arrows I usually shoot 29 1/2" , sounds like your saying I shouldn't cut them down at all ?
Cutting them is not mandatory. I do not cut my arrows.
I'm a brand new traditional shooter. So, is the goal to keep the gap as small as possible? Is that considered more attractive? I ask because I'm now considering three under grip.
Good question. A smaller GAP is easier for you to estimate, but it is not mandatory. For example, This is how I set my GAP.
I set my Point on at 30 yards - this is how far the farthest target is in most 3D Archery shoots, this will then dictate the size of my GAP for all other ranges.
I thought that canting the bow would influence arrow flight, or is it just with offcenter bows.
Like your videos Greg, keep on going.
+Lieuwe Henstra
Depends on what you think "influence" is. By canting the bow all your doing is changing your relationship to it. Not the flight of the arrow. Instead of a vertical trajectory (In relationship to you), it will then have a diagonal one. A bunch of Trad shooters like to cant the bow. Personal choice really.
Hi Greg.
just wanted to know. I shoot instinctively and want to try split vision. Do I have to learn gap first or can I start split vision now?
If I can, how do I start?
You can go right to Split Vision. When you shoot, still look at the target, but also be aware of where the point of the arrow is. If you hit good, try to put the point there again. If not adjust of that point. It can really make you better once you find that point.
+Archery 101 So if I get it- I don't need to find my gap first, just shoot instinctively but be aware of where the arrow is pointing so I can currect accordingly.
When using split vision, is there a benefit for 3-under over split-finger?
You got it. The only benefit to three under is that the arrow is closer to the eye and the "GAP" looks smaller. It really is not important.
+Archery 101 Thanks Greg. I'll give a shot (pun intended)..
Keep up the good work. Your channel is great.
Split sounded cleaner and quieter.
Yeah that’s good Shootin
Some interesting stuff.
nice vid thanks
predator 2's. such an underated arrow. they just need better selection of nocks.
At 12 minutes into the video you used index finger in corner of mouth to shoot, then you said index finger in corner of mouth and shot the next shaft 5" lower? Thought you were comparing index to middle finger??
Nothing more than a simple slip up. The first was index and the second was middle, When I went down range I said it correctly.
You strained alot holding the 47 pds. You were not steady enough.
aaha! u answered at 9:oo min mark
$uper
disregard the question
38 lbs. Greg not inches. Slow down breath a little.. Enjoy your video's alot are you rich yet hahahalol.
Thanks for answering the canting question. I need to try to stick to the gap shooting for consistency and increased confidence.