I've been shooting compound for years. After a solid week of practicing intuitive or instinctive shooting with my new Mongolian horse bow, this was like a light bulb going off. Mapping the trajectory is brilliant and so simple
I tried gap shooting today for the 1st time ever ....and your right . I shot 12 to 14 inches higher .....then aimed low the same 12"to 14 " distance and nailed target bullseyes .... trippy but works .....I want to check out your string walking method next, I have never heard of that one . Ok thanks for the videos ........ and subbed !!
I have been a split finger total instinctive shooter for the last 25 years. I have dabbled in and out of traditional within those years also shooting compounds. The last 2 years I have been focusing mostly on traditional archery. I switched to 3 under about 6 months ago and saw my shooting vastly improve. Now I want to learn gap but know it's probably going to be difficult transition as I have been taught to block out the arrow and focus on one spot. I have just started watching your videos and really enjoy them. You do a great job at passing on information and experience in a way that makes it seem that you learning along with the viewers. Keep up the great work!
+Ray Marks Thank you so very much for the kind words. The hardest part is learning how to not hit where you are looking, once you can do that, the rest comes along pretty fast. Good luck!
+Archery 101 why wouldn't you want to hit where your shooting? Personally I shoot split finger instinctive. I practice with all arrow weights and sizes. My bow is not finicky at all with spine and my goal is to be able to pick up most arrows and hit at range. The second y change anything about your arrow your gap changes... I think training your brain to quickly adapt to different arrows (out of the same bow) is the ultimate form of archery. I like not having to worry about misjudging the range a little bit... My brain does all the aiming for me. I love your videos though please keep them coming! And last question... How does gaps shooting work for moving/aerial targets? Point instinctive :) thumbs up!!
try 2 fingers under and you'll probably become even more consistent......too hard? drop down to a 70 pound bow. anything to avoid using a sight, release and all of the other junk that can break or get lost.
Best tutorial I've found on gap shooting, especially your tip about using the same gap for a range of distances - have been trying this on 3D & it really simplifies the problem of precise yardage estimation. Here in the UK we have to shoot split finger for Hunting Tackle class, so gaps are a bit bigger. Thanks for the vids!
+Archery 101 Did some experimenting yesterday: iim shooting a fairly light bow (trad. one-piece wooden composite recurve, 34 lb.) with wooden arrows. Thanks to your vid. I sussed out why I was having trouble with middle distances: gaps for 10, 15, 20 are pretty similar, and also easy enough to gauge at 30-35 yards. I was having trouble with the distances between 20 & 25 yds,: found out point-on is about 25 yds. The arrow must be really nose-diving somewhere between 20 & 25, because I found I still had a noticeable gap at 22 yds! Next time out I will take a tape measure & shoot between 20 & 25 in 1 yd increments to get a better picture of what is going on at these distances. Means I am going to have to get much more accurate at distance estimation! Thanks again.
Congratulations! You have found the real secret to GAP, point on. Just made a video yesterday of that. Your are not wrong, the arrow drop off is massive. Amazing isn't it? One thing you could try is a lighter arrow, that will stretch out the range and shorten your GAP. Lighter poundage bows tend to have a higher trajectory. On my 25 pound Pinto, they look like I lobbying them in past 20 yards.Keep me posted please.
being very new to archery (went to the range for the first time a week ago) i noticed I am constantly shooting low and right. Now obviously I don't have some of the fundamentals down so I had shots go every which way, but the majority were low and right. With the knowledge that you gave in this video, I think I should be able to bring my shots closer to center now that I have a better understanding of how to adjust for my gap. (also a new term for me, didn't know the terminology for how I was aiming). I think one of the reasons I was going right was I was gripping my bow instead of just letting it sit in the saddle between my thumb and fore-finger (this will be hard to break free from as I've been shooting rifle competitively for a couple years now and my hand just naturally wants to grip). Either way, thank you for sharing your knowledge, I look forward to practicing what you have taught!
Greg your series on gap shooting is on the money and there are many more that cover the technique but not one discusses significant gaps ABOVE THE TARGET when shooting longer distances !! I worked out a very simple technique using secondary target images or background spots above the primary target and actually ignoring the primary target completely !! I've actually taught this simple system to other archers in a matter of minutes and I'd be surprised if you don't use a similar system yourself or if you use something different I would love to hear your thoughts !!
When I shoot long distances, I aim well over the target. I pick something, usually a branch or something and work off of that. I do not "see" the target either.
Well done. I'm so new at trad, I'm still wearing diapers. So it's videos like this that are keeping me awake late into the night. Oh, I've been bowhunting since '80 and slaughtered hundreds of deer with a compound......but I'm bored with it. Time to toss the training wheels and go native..... Thanks for an informative clip.
Hi Greg! I enjoy your videos as you are a competent teacher. You keep it humorous as well as informative! On this particular video, I wanted to point out that, when you pointed to the gap shooting video, there was nothing there....at least on my end. Thanks again and keep them coming!
thanks buddy, that'll get me started at 3D longbow. It reminds me of yrs ago shooting a 50lb target recurve with aces, 10 to 28 yds was the same sight marks, that field round was easy.
I gotta say that anyone who can't call the yardage and has no idea where they are hitting at a given yardage will inevitably injure and lose animals. I've known guys who instinctively shoot and are pretty good shots on fixed targets. Once in the woods on uneven terrain their abilities fall apart because they have no formula to go to for estimating the gap. Great video, anyone who hunts... for the sake of humane kills learn everything you can like in this video.
Greg - Archery 101 is a great idea and you are off to a great release, job well done and Thank You! It seems we all had a great 2015 3D season this year. I have never seriously tried three under or gap but you got me think'in maybe someday. I have been shooting a great mix of bow weights this season 35, 42 and my go to 45 lbs. Enjoy the Holidays and Merry Christmas! Hoping we can get the BPs together during the 2016 season especially at the Sturbridge, R100. Jeff
Absolutely brilliant.....................The only thing is that you have to be a very good estimater of distance, not only to the target but also guessing the distance above or below your target point for your gap.
Very helpful video sir... as I said in another comment, Iam new to archery, but not hunting & really liking my compound with sights. Have an old, longer axel to axel coumpound, that I have been shooting too, but end up laying it down for the confidence I have as a new archer with my sights. But this is the simpilest, and easiest to understand vid on gap shooting I have seen. I was getting frustrated by all the 'instinctive' teaching, and makes sense that there is an aspect of aiming in all forms!! Your teaching gives me a good base to work on moving forward, but for now, will be trying to tag my first animal with my 3pin sight... Thanks again... new subsciber from MN. Have a great bow season! Peace, DB.
It can be done, if you are use to doing it. I'm left handed but shoot right handed for anything with sights. I do not keep booth eyes open. But the closing of the eye is something I picked up in firearms.
I just got back into bow hunting last year after 40 years. Have never shot a compound. Doing longbows and recurves. I'm an instinctive shooter, but would try Gap. I'm right handed but left eye, so I shoot shotgun and bow lefty.
Interesting video. It seems as though you are describing more of a pick a point system for targets that are elevated off the ground rather than seeing a gap off the spot . I was always taught to see the gap in the riser window not the tip of the arrow and focus on the spot with the gap being in the secondary vision. That way when shooting targets on the ground you were still accurate. How do you measure 12 inches down with the tip of the arrow when the target is small and on the ground? Maybe something like a tennis ball. As an example my gap at 25 yards is a 3/4 inch gap between the arrow and the spot as seen in the riser window. It doesn't matter if I am shooting targets on the ground or elevated targets.
In GAP, you pick a spot a certain predetermined distance from where you want it to hit. Now, if that point is, lets say the knee, then you can use that. It is not a constant, but a great reference point that will get you close. As for shooting a target on the ground, it is the same, instead of working off the body, you just estimate what the required distance would be straight down. You do not measure it off the ground it self out from the target. You know what a foot looks like, so you just imagine a foot straight down. You do no go a foot away from the target. Many people use objects, like a basketball, they know how big it is and picture that.
I do 3 under...46# longbow(Bear AuSable) @ just under 28" draw. Full length 600's/125gr.points. My 10yrd gap is about 8". My 15yrd. is just about point on. And 20 to 23yrds... slightly above, which I think is in the arch zone. I'm limited to 23yrds. at present. But I fear that I'm not doing it right. But knowing where the zone is...I'm hitting more 10 ring shots than ever before. The 15yrd point on... is messed with my mind...and makes me think I've screwed up with determining gap. Like your 15 is even higher than then 10 and arch zone higher. Maybe my arrows are too heavy, I donno. Your instructions are on line with Mr. Blackmond'''s videos... I've watched his a lot. Maybe I'm not precise enough with my arrow tip or steady enough with my bow arm... BUT...lol I ain't giving up. Cause it's made me shoot better. Good Video..will be waiting for more like a hungry puppy.
+William R The point on for my 47 pound bow is 23 yards. I actually set it for that. Here is my GAP for that bow. 10 yards 8, 15 yards 7" 20 Yards 7" 25 yards Point On 30 yards +9". The reason for your point on being where it is, is the location of your knock on the string. By moving the knock up or down you'll change the angle of the trajectory and with that your point on. Try moving you knock up. That should move you point on farther out.
+Archery 101 Greg if you increase your nock point (move it up) won't that lower (shorten) your point on distance? Example: say a 3/8in set nock point gives you a 30 yd point on, if you increase it to a 5/8in set nock point your point on should drop to say 20 yds for example. Correct? Thanks Jeff.
It really is a "Feeling" thing. You shoot, look at where it hit and then make an adjustment by what you "think" is the proper adjustment. For me, it is second nature due to using firearms with iron sights. I really do not think about it, I just do it. I guess you could day it is GAP shooting on the fly. I prefer the old saying of "Kentucky Windage".
Thanks for sharing your GAP shooting video. After watching your video I had two questions come to mind for you. With your 30" draw did you add an extension to the Carbon Express Predator II 800 Spine arrow. It appears as though the OEM of that arrow is 30"...? And If your GAP is still high of your target at 30 yards - what would the point of aim be where you are hitting where you are aiming...?
My 800's are 32" with the nock, insert and point (they require a special insert that extends it out another 1/4" or so). They do not stick out past my riser. For most bows, set to a "Traditional" nock height, the Point On is out around 45 yards, minimum. I adjust my nock point so the Point On is 30 yards. The only reason I do this is because most 3D courses, that is the max distance for traditional.
Hello again. I am in my fifth decade of instinctive shooting but have never, until UA-cam, been properly instructed as to all of the aspects of archery. So bear with me here. My concern is in gap shooting, wouldn't the bow always have to be vertical? This would reduce chances, for a shot, in hunting situations.
In my testing, it doe snot have to be vertical. I found the arrow flies the same when straight or canted. Now if you use some extreme cant, which i have not tried or ever used, maybe there could be a difference.
I'm still in the dark. Is one sighting down the shaft at the orange dot? - NO, the shaft is still below the eye. One would have to be looking down the shaft from nock to point! Signed, Instinctive.
We are not "Sighting down the Shaft", we are place the point at a specific location. That way the arrow does not have to be so high that we can see from nock to point. That is more like String Walking. Signed, GAP Shooter Lefty, Instinctive Rightie :)
What I wish to know is, if I am somewhere in nature and want to hit a target to let's say simulate shooting a dear, how do I determine the distance and the gap in order to make the first one a kill shot. How can I determine the gap without missing the target and scaring the animal away?
You learn that in your training and set up. Once you get your bow set up, you start working on your GAPS, once you have it down, you do not have to stop and think about it. You will know what to do through repetition.
Ok this was a great how to and I understood it! But I have a problem... And that problem is that I can't hit the target consistently enough to determine my gap. It would probably help if I had a heavier draw weight and better arrows...
Great point, The first thing you need to have is a consistent and repeatable shot cycle. Now, if you do not, you will see an improvement, but not much of one. Heavier draw weights hide flaws, lighter draw weights expose and exaggerate them. I also GAP with a 25 pound bow. It can be done, just take longer and requires a more defined shot cycle. Arrows are important, to a point. I can shoot pretty good with incorrect arrows. Just work on having a consistent and repeatable shot cycle. That is the biggest thing.
This may be a Dumbass question but how do you shoot a 800 spine arrow out of a 41lb bow? I shoot a 43lb Bob Lee recurve with 500 spine goldtip trads 29.74 inch long 125gn points, baresharft tuned any longer shoots like crap....
I also shoot 600's with a 145 grain point out of my 50 pound bow. How? Great question. I just seem to be able to make them work. I seem to be the exception rather than the rule.
Neophyte speaking.... how could there be any other way? I am new to archery but not new to hunting and in particular shotgun for waterfowl where you have to adjust your aim for distance, flight direction etc. Concept is loosely the same, so not sure why anyone would 'bad-mouth' gap shooting.
Because there are people that believes they do not aim. They call it "Instinctive" They claim to only look at the target. They refuse to acknowledge or admit that it is learnt. They also believe this to be "true" traditional archery and the GAP is wrong. To each their own.
Oh, I get it... it is magic! haha. Of course they aim. They may not scientifically break down the steps to doing so, but they aim and lucky for them Devine Providence has given their brain the ability to calculate the wind, elevation, speed, etc to be on target.
+seth smith All arrows have a trajectory and the steepest curve up is the first 10 to 20 yards. So to compensate for that your point must be below your target, and it is for most distances with a trad bow.
I cannot see the point per se in my vision, the arrow just drops off (like the hood of your car). I place the end of the arrow (That I can see) at a predetermined point from where I want it to hit at a certain distance. There is a point where the trajectory of the arrow and you line of sight down the arrow meet, that is called "Point On". When that happens you simply put the arrow on where you want it to hit. At all other ranges the arrow is either above or below where you want it to hit.
You got it, you aim at the orange disk using the tip of the arrow. Due to trajectory, the arrow will impact at a different spot. GAP is simply figuring out that difference for various distances. Does that make sense?
Hey archery 101 ! Just found your video. From my understanding, basically if i want to shoot on the target i have to take in acount arrow trajectory right? But can you give me on how should i aim my arrow horizontally? I mean, my arrow seems to always moves to the right of my desired target point
How are you shooting? By this mean Instinctive or a sighting method. As for arrow flight, that could be many things and to say what it is without knowing your equipment or seeing you shoot would be giving bad advice. I would suggest working on getting a repeatable form (Shot Cycle) first. Once you start getting nice sized groups, then you can start looking at equipment.
Great stuff! I grew up near Bragg, and used to drive by the barracks of the 509th MP Battalion on the way to Lee Field house. Dad was SF, can't for the life of me remember whether it was the 5th or the 7th. I was Air Force Security Police, but was fortunate enough to get to train with the boys from Bad Tolz back in the 80's. Great Days. Thanks for your service.
can you change your point on by changing you nock? so if I want to shoot gap but want my gap to be smaller can I lower or raise my nock to bring my point on or gap closer to my aiming spot?
Yes sir, moving your nock will adjust your GAP. Here is what I do. I figure out at what range (read distance) that I want my point on to be. I then move my nock til that happens. Then from there I find my GAP's for all others.
so if I'm shooting 16" high at 20 yards do I move my nock up or down? I've only been shooting my recurve for about 6 months. I'm not bad but I shoot purely instinctive and don't know any other way. I tried tonight to find my gap and I have a hard time seeing the tip of my arrow at full draw.. I was thinking of painting my field tips or getting stainless.
You will not see the tip. Just like you cannot see the front end of your car. You will be able to out to a certain point and that is what you use. As for the nock, yes, you would move it up. But be careful, too much movement will affect arrow flight.What poundage is your bow? 16" at 20 is around the normal. Getting it to less than 12" will be tough unless you are using a competition bow with an alloy riser.
46#. They fly great so I'll try moving it up about a 1/16-1/8 and see how that does. Love your videos!! I learned so much from watching them 3-4 times each. Thank you so much sir!
arent you going off of though, whats good enough? what if you wanted to hit center target gold target shooting 10's all day would this be consistent? seems to me youre just going off of let you get in that area. what if i wnated to hit a penny on a target this wouldnt allow me to hit that penny would it
Gap will allow you to hit a penny. Just set you point on for that distance and simply put the arrow over the penny and as long as you have decent form, you will hit it.
HI Archery 101 I shoot a Kodiak legend 4o lbs with full length arrows.My draw length is 31 so i have about 46 lbs on the fingers. I have a gap at ten yards of 32 inches and at 20 yards of 43 inches. Can you imagin why my gap is so big? It makes it very difficult. Thanks for help!
+Archery 101 Split finger and i think an extremely fast bow with carbons.Also,regarding your new video i think my nock point is a bit too low. Is that possible ?? Greets from germany :-)
+Valerian Schmidt Split Finger will result in a much larger GAP. Fast is good in that the bow should have a flatter trajectory, which should translate into less variation in your GAP. A low nock point can have some affect on your GAP yes.
Maybe u can answer my question. Im new to traditional recurve shooting. I was under impression for around 40# draw and ur arrow length the arrow spine should be around .400-.500. I hear alot of guys in hear shooting higher spine. Am I misunderstanding something
f jc No you are not. But you do not have all the information. The biggest thing outside of draw weight that affects the spine needed is how your bow is cut. A bow cut past center needs a stiffer spine than one cut to center. And a bow cut to center needs a stiffer spine than one not cut to center. A bow not cut to center has “Paradox” and this means it must flex more to get around the riser. Also, the type string you use affects it. As a general rule when looking up your arrows spine. You need to: Subtract five pounds off your draw weight if the bow is not cut to or past center Subtract five pounds if you are not using a Fast Flight string. So in stead of a 40 pound bow, you should be looking for arrows for a 30 pound bow. And that is why I use the arrows I do. Hope this helps
f jc Good question. Most metal bows are cut past center. They can handle the stress. On a wooden bow, you measure at the cut out down by the shelf. The cut is where the riser is on the shelf. Equal distance on both sides is center. More shelf is past and more rise is not.
@@TradArchery101 ok.i.think I understand. I have a traditional Mongolian recurve no shelf or rest(off hand). And just ordered a takedown black hunter recurve
Great question. You can do either. When you learn, look at the tip. But after a while you can change your focus to the target. It is really called Split Vision, but it is still GAP Shooting.
+Archery 101 Thanks for that!! by the way. i have an off topic question. I have a crappy recurve pvc bow and im saving for a samick sage. im about 36" draw length (measured my arm lengths and divide it by 2). im planning on getting the 30# because i dont feel like im that strong yet. Is the samick sage good to use for my draw length? and also should i stop shooting with the pvc because it might mess proper forms?
I don't think you have a 36" draw length. The average is 28". If you really have a 36" inch draw length, you would need a custom bow and custom arrows. Here is one way to find your draw length. Get an arrow and mark it starting from the nock in one inch increments. Then have a friend watch you draw and see what it is when you are at anchor.
Hey, i've just started getting into archery and loving it even though i can't aim consistently. I've always been told Gap shooting has more cons than pro's so i went for learning instinctive and i'm doing terribly with my consistency. Your video seems much better for me so i think i'll give it a shot, i just have one important question. My arrows seem to go to the sides a lot so being able to have my arrows hit directly above the dot will be quite hard for me, any reason why this is? My draw length is 29" and im using a 24 foot long recurve, im scared of pulling it all the way back to my anchor. am i right in fearing this or will it take it?
Who ever told you GAP has more con's than pro's does not know GAP. In the tournament area the most accurate method is String Walking, then GAP and in last is instinctive. GAP is not for everyone, but it is awesome for those who take the time to work with it. Are they consistently going to one side or the other? The first thing to do is just put the point of the arrow on a dot, spot, mark, etc. and shot a bunch of arrows. Do not worry about hitting it or getting close to it. Just see where they are landing.Once you have a nice group, then you can start making adjustments. How big is your bow? 24 feet is not accurate. What model is it?
Thankyou for the fast response, They are consistently going to the right. Ive just spent the last 2 hours shooting trying to find it but my arrows have no consistency to them at all. my bow is a beginner 24pound at 63" it says on it. I put the arrowhead so it covers the mark i made and just kept firing, but each were different heights aswell as to the right.
+Archery 101 the bows quite old, its cut to centre, looks very similar to the ones you use in your videos just with removable limbs. the arrows came with the bow as a present and there's no indication of the spine on them, they seem very basic
So from what I can gather, it looks like your arrows are too stiff. That is why they are constantly going off to the right. What weight point are you using? What you might want to try is to use a heavier point.
When I shoot at targets over thirty I just aim over the target. I normally pick a spot in the trees behind it and aim for that. For me, it is easier to judge distance over the target, don't know why but it just is
Yes, it is an old aiming method. The name came from the old "Kentucky Rifle" and how those frontiersmen used them to shoot targets at far distance and in high winds. What it boils down to is adjusting where the barrel points in order to hit the target. Here is a great example: At work I was qualifying on the AR with a aimpoint sight (An optical sight that displays a little red dot, simply put the dot on what you want to hit and squeeze the trigger). My first group hit the target in the left shoulder, even though my dot was center mass. So on my next group I moved the dot to the lower right (the opposite of what I did before) and hit dead center. That is called "Kentucky Windage"
+Øystein Martinsen Great questions and not one with a simple answer. It all depends on the circumstances. In most traditional archery ranges (shots fro 5 to 25 yards) there is no adjustment needed. But with shots out around 30 yards, (again this is determined by the draw weight of the bow) the degree of the shot (uphill or downhill) plays a big part. On Sunday you will see me make a shot that is about 30 yards out, off a cliff that is 20 to 25 feet up in elevation. I aimed spot on (which that bow is set for at 30, it is 47 pound draw)and the arrow hit where I was aiming. So, it is tough to give a set answer. Sorry.
Aha oki, is it oki to shoot gap with the non dominant eye closed? Find it hard to focus on the arrow and the target when i gap. I normaly shoot instingtiv.
Closing an eye is fine, a lot of GAP shooters do that. Once you have your GAP down (Knowing the distance at the set yardage) you do not have to look down the arrow as much. It becomes very much like instinctive. What you are doing is training your mind to recognize the correct GAP. I no longer look down the arrow, I see the GAP in my peripheral vision and shoot off how it feels.
Never said it was. And, once you have your GAP down (memorizing the sight picture), it becomes very much like instinctive. I do not go: Okay I'm xxx yards away so I must aim XXX under / over. Nope I stare at where I want it to hit, draw, use my peripheral vision to make sure it is where it needs to be and if it feels right, I shoot. I shoot instinctive right handed and GAP left handed. Been shooting instinctive since the 70's, so I know a thing or two about it.
you didn't fully describe your anchor and how to set the nock point, I will start searching through your videos otherwise very informative I started gap shooting a week ago and now I can hit things
I didn't describe my anchor because so many people do it differently. Use an anchor you are comfortable with. As for the nocking point, I use either string or brass. I adjust it by moving it until I get my point on at 30 yards with good arrow flight.
wow, quick and complete answer, thanks I ask about anchor because I want to try different techniques untilI find what works best for me. I can hit a target butt at 50m and sometimes the target, outdoors is new to me as I learned indoors at 20 yards and never a change (been shooting indoors about 9 months, outdoors one week) I realized I need a higher anchor point as the target was behind my hand at 50m. I am currently anchoring the feather to the tip of my nose.
Thanks for the explanation but it's not for me. I prefer to shoot instinctive. Gap in not for everybody and instinctive is not for everybody. Do what works for YOU
Why? Because how do you know if it will make you better unless you try it? Also, The vast majority of top archers use an aiming method, that is no coincidence.
Hi Greg! I enjoy your videos as you are a competent teacher. You keep it humorous as well as informative! On this particular video, I wanted to point out that, when you pointed to the gap shooting video, there was nothing there....at least on my end. Thanks again and keep them coming!
Best description on gap shooting I've heard yet, thank you
That is the simplest explanation of gap shooting I've come across. And it now seems to make sense. I was way over complicating the whole thing.
Me too, that Is why I started to make these. Thanks for the kind words.
I've been shooting compound for years. After a solid week of practicing intuitive or instinctive shooting with my new Mongolian horse bow, this was like a light bulb going off. Mapping the trajectory is brilliant and so simple
Great tips! The range from 15-25 being all in the kill spot was a great one! Thanks
I tried gap shooting today for the 1st time ever ....and your right . I shot 12 to 14 inches higher .....then aimed low the same 12"to 14 " distance and nailed target bullseyes .... trippy but works .....I want to check out your string walking method next, I have never heard of that one . Ok thanks for the videos ........ and subbed !!
As a slingshot shooter....the shooters gap was BAFFLING to me. Once I comprehended it....WOW!
Thanks!
I have been a split finger total instinctive shooter for the last 25 years. I have dabbled in and out of traditional within those years also shooting compounds. The last 2 years I have been focusing mostly on traditional archery. I switched to 3 under about 6 months ago and saw my shooting vastly improve. Now I want to learn gap but know it's probably going to be difficult transition as I have been taught to block out the arrow and focus on one spot. I have just started watching your videos and really enjoy them. You do a great job at passing on information and experience in a way that makes it seem that you learning along with the viewers. Keep up the great work!
+Ray Marks Thank you so very much for the kind words. The hardest part is learning how to not hit where you are looking, once you can do that, the rest comes along pretty fast. Good luck!
+Archery 101 why wouldn't you want to hit where your shooting? Personally I shoot split finger instinctive. I practice with all arrow weights and sizes. My bow is not finicky at all with spine and my goal is to be able to pick up most arrows and hit at range. The second y change anything about your arrow your gap changes... I think training your brain to quickly adapt to different arrows (out of the same bow) is the ultimate form of archery. I like not having to worry about misjudging the range a little bit... My brain does all the aiming for me.
I love your videos though please keep them coming!
And last question... How does gaps shooting work for moving/aerial targets? Point instinctive :) thumbs up!!
try 2 fingers under and you'll probably become even more consistent......too hard? drop down to a 70 pound bow.
anything to avoid using a sight, release and all of the other junk that can break or get lost.
Just bought a new bow and you really help me a lot about this aiming method...
Best tutorial I've found on gap shooting, especially your tip about using the same gap for a range of distances - have been trying this on 3D & it really simplifies the problem of precise yardage estimation. Here in the UK we have to shoot split finger for Hunting Tackle class, so gaps are a bit bigger. Thanks for the vids!
+Ned
Thank you for the kind words, Have you found out about how to set your "Point On" yet? That really changes everything.
+Archery 101 Did some experimenting yesterday: iim shooting a fairly light bow (trad. one-piece wooden composite recurve, 34 lb.) with wooden arrows. Thanks to your vid. I sussed out why I was having trouble with middle distances: gaps for 10, 15, 20 are pretty similar, and also easy enough to gauge at 30-35 yards. I was having trouble with the distances between 20 & 25 yds,: found out point-on is about 25 yds. The arrow must be really nose-diving somewhere between 20 & 25, because I found I still had a noticeable gap at 22 yds! Next time out I will take a tape measure & shoot between 20 & 25 in 1 yd increments to get a better picture of what is going on at these distances. Means I am going to have to get much more accurate at distance estimation! Thanks again.
Congratulations! You have found the real secret to GAP, point on. Just made a video yesterday of that.
Your are not wrong, the arrow drop off is massive. Amazing isn't it? One thing you could try is a lighter arrow, that will stretch out the range and shorten your GAP. Lighter poundage bows tend to have a higher trajectory. On my 25 pound Pinto, they look like I lobbying them in past 20 yards.Keep me posted please.
being very new to archery (went to the range for the first time a week ago) i noticed I am constantly shooting low and right. Now obviously I don't have some of the fundamentals down so I had shots go every which way, but the majority were low and right. With the knowledge that you gave in this video, I think I should be able to bring my shots closer to center now that I have a better understanding of how to adjust for my gap. (also a new term for me, didn't know the terminology for how I was aiming). I think one of the reasons I was going right was I was gripping my bow instead of just letting it sit in the saddle between my thumb and fore-finger (this will be hard to break free from as I've been shooting rifle competitively for a couple years now and my hand just naturally wants to grip). Either way, thank you for sharing your knowledge, I look forward to practicing what you have taught!
Fantastic video, first video to get the concept in my head properly! good stuff.
Great video my man!
Been looking for just this video 👍🏼 thanks
Greg your series on gap shooting is on the money and there are many more that cover the technique but not one discusses significant gaps ABOVE THE TARGET when shooting longer distances !! I worked out a very simple technique using secondary target images or background spots above the primary target and actually ignoring the primary target completely !! I've actually taught this simple system to other archers in a matter of minutes and I'd be surprised if you don't use a similar system yourself or if you use something different I would love to hear your thoughts !!
When I shoot long distances, I aim well over the target. I pick something, usually a branch or something and work off of that. I do not "see" the target either.
Great post and will be experimenting with gap shooting with more precision thanks to you!
keep these coming bud! you're an awesome teacher. very glad I found your channel.
Well done. I'm so new at trad, I'm still wearing diapers. So it's videos like this that are keeping me awake late into the night. Oh, I've been bowhunting since '80 and slaughtered hundreds of deer with a compound......but I'm bored with it. Time to toss the training wheels and go native.....
Thanks for an informative clip.
instaBlaster
Thank you so much, I am new to traditional archery, this just upped my consistency and groups instantly!
Good demo and explaination for how to find your gap.
Hi Greg! I enjoy your videos as you are a competent teacher. You keep it humorous as well as informative! On this particular video, I wanted to point out that, when you pointed to the gap shooting video, there was nothing there....at least on my end. Thanks again and keep them coming!
EASY TO UNDERSTAND FOR NEW ARCHERS LIKE MY SELF WELL I AM BACK INTO ARCHERY AFTER 65 YRS
HANS WEGNER
Good for you! I'm back in after 48 years.
Hey Greg, thank you for this helpful information, and video!!!
thanks buddy, that'll get me started at 3D longbow. It reminds me of yrs ago shooting a 50lb target recurve with aces, 10 to 28 yds was the same sight marks, that field round was easy.
I gotta say that anyone who can't call the yardage and has no idea where they are hitting at a given yardage will inevitably injure and lose animals. I've known guys who instinctively shoot and are pretty good shots on fixed targets. Once in the woods on uneven terrain their abilities fall apart because they have no formula to go to for estimating the gap. Great video, anyone who hunts... for the sake of humane kills learn everything you can like in this video.
Now that was one helpful video! Thanks!
Greg - Archery 101 is a great idea and you are off to a great release, job well done and Thank You! It seems we all had a great 2015 3D season this year. I have never seriously tried three under or gap but you got me think'in maybe someday. I have been shooting a great mix of bow weights this season 35, 42 and my go to 45 lbs. Enjoy the Holidays and Merry Christmas! Hoping we can get the BPs together during the 2016 season especially at the Sturbridge, R100. Jeff
Best explanation by far! Thank you sir and you have a new sub and fan from me!
Absolutely brilliant.....................The only thing is that you have to be a very good estimater of distance, not only to the target but also guessing the distance above or below your target point for your gap.
a great video. as a level 1 instructor, I offer this info for those who want to get better at archery.
Wow so rare seeing a fellow left handed archer.
Yes it is, and it is always nice to hear from another one.
Great video break I am a newbie and you are teaching me all kinds of new stuff
Very helpful video sir... as I said in another comment, Iam new to archery, but not hunting & really liking my compound with sights. Have an old, longer axel to axel coumpound, that I have been shooting too, but end up laying it down for the confidence I have as a new archer with my sights. But this is the simpilest, and easiest to understand vid on gap shooting I have seen. I was getting frustrated by all the 'instinctive' teaching, and makes sense that there is an aspect of aiming in all forms!! Your teaching gives me a good base to work on moving forward, but for now, will be trying to tag my first animal with my 3pin sight... Thanks again... new subsciber from MN. Have a great bow season! Peace, DB.
It can be done, if you are use to doing it. I'm left handed but shoot right handed for anything with sights. I do not keep booth eyes open. But the closing of the eye is something I picked up in firearms.
+Archery 101
I am right handed but shoot lefty:)... Also close one eye. Thanks for the response, and for the solid info to work on!! DB.
thankyou easy to understand..........excellent
You are the man! Thank you!
Great explanation! .as always. Thanks!
This channel is aweasome, alright? It deserves more watches...
As a thumb draw, instinctive shooter, found that interesting, thanks.
I just got back into bow hunting last year after 40 years. Have never shot a compound. Doing longbows and recurves. I'm an instinctive shooter, but would try Gap. I'm right handed but left eye, so I shoot shotgun and bow lefty.
Awesome Channel, very helpful! Liked and subscribed, take care! Im shooting a yew and bamboo longbow!
Like always great video. Thanks keep up the great job.
Nice
Very informative video. Thanks to you.
Excellent!! Thank you.
Awesome tactics
i like your way of teaching us that methode of finding the gap i realy like it thanks for showing us
Clear and simple. Thanks
thanks. great information
Great footage!!!
Interesting video. It seems as though you are describing more of a pick a point system for targets that are elevated off the ground rather than seeing a gap off the spot . I was always taught to see the gap in the riser window not the tip of the arrow and focus on the spot with the gap being in the secondary vision. That way when shooting targets on the ground you were still accurate. How do you measure 12 inches down with the tip of the arrow when the target is small and on the ground? Maybe something like a tennis ball. As an example my gap at 25 yards is a 3/4 inch gap between the arrow and the spot as seen in the riser window. It doesn't matter if I am shooting targets on the ground or elevated targets.
In GAP, you pick a spot a certain predetermined distance from where you want it to hit. Now, if that point is, lets say the knee, then you can use that. It is not a constant, but a great reference point that will get you close. As for shooting a target on the ground, it is the same, instead of working off the body, you just estimate what the required distance would be straight down. You do not measure it off the ground it self out from the target. You know what a foot looks like, so you just imagine a foot straight down. You do no go a foot away from the target. Many people use objects, like a basketball, they know how big it is and picture that.
Thx u
I do 3 under...46# longbow(Bear AuSable) @ just under 28" draw. Full length 600's/125gr.points. My 10yrd gap is about 8". My 15yrd. is just about point on. And 20 to 23yrds... slightly above, which I think is in the arch zone. I'm limited to 23yrds. at present. But I fear that I'm not doing it right. But knowing where the zone is...I'm hitting more 10 ring shots than ever before. The 15yrd point on... is messed with my mind...and makes me think I've screwed up with determining gap. Like your 15 is even higher than then 10 and arch zone higher. Maybe my arrows are too heavy, I donno. Your instructions are on line with Mr. Blackmond'''s videos... I've watched his a lot. Maybe I'm not precise enough with my arrow tip or steady enough with my bow arm... BUT...lol I ain't giving up. Cause it's made me shoot better. Good Video..will be waiting for more like a hungry puppy.
+William R The point on for my 47 pound bow is 23 yards. I actually set it for that.
Here is my GAP for that bow.
10 yards 8,
15 yards 7"
20 Yards 7"
25 yards Point On
30 yards +9".
The reason for your point on being where it is, is the location of your knock on the string. By moving the knock up or down you'll change the angle of the trajectory and with that your point on. Try moving you knock up. That should move you point on farther out.
+Archery 101 Greg if you increase your nock point (move it up) won't that lower (shorten) your point on distance? Example: say a 3/8in set nock point gives you a 30 yd point on, if you increase it to a 5/8in set nock point your point on should drop to say 20 yds for example. Correct? Thanks Jeff.
JeffBullseye Yes, it will. That is another video. It is a well kept secret for some reason.
Saved me some stress, bro.
nice video, very informative!
Great explanation.
Estimado amigo, muy buen video. Muchas gracias por este video. Soy fanático del arco recurvado tradicional. Le envío un Abrazo desde Argentina.
Thanks for your very informative video, have learned a lot.
Ahhhhh... So this is where the "aim low on the deer" came from... Add into that their tendency to drop..
What would the gap look like at 60 meters?
I would like to hear an explanation on aiming for windage
Thanks for the great video
It really is a "Feeling" thing. You shoot, look at where it hit and then make an adjustment by what you "think" is the proper adjustment. For me, it is second nature due to using firearms with iron sights. I really do not think about it, I just do it. I guess you could day it is GAP shooting on the fly. I prefer the old saying of "Kentucky Windage".
Thanks for sharing your GAP shooting video. After watching your video I had two questions come to mind for you. With your 30" draw did you add an extension to the Carbon Express Predator II 800 Spine arrow. It appears as though the OEM of that arrow is 30"...? And If your GAP is still high of your target at 30 yards - what would the point of aim be where you are hitting where you are aiming...?
My 800's are 32" with the nock, insert and point (they require a special insert that extends it out another 1/4" or so). They do not stick out past my riser.
For most bows, set to a "Traditional" nock height, the Point On is out around 45 yards, minimum. I adjust my nock point so the Point On is 30 yards. The only reason I do this is because most 3D courses, that is the max distance for traditional.
Hello again. I am in my fifth decade of instinctive shooting but have never, until UA-cam, been properly instructed as to all of the aspects of archery. So bear with me here. My concern is in gap shooting, wouldn't the bow always have to be vertical? This would reduce chances, for a shot, in hunting situations.
In my testing, it doe snot have to be vertical. I found the arrow flies the same when straight or canted. Now if you use some extreme cant, which i have not tried or ever used, maybe there could be a difference.
Thanks for the quick reply! I tried it with a pretty good cant and it worked fine. BTW, 1967 ROCKS!! Particularly July! Lol!
I'm still in the dark. Is one sighting down the shaft at the orange dot? - NO, the shaft is still below the eye. One would have to be looking down the shaft from nock to point! Signed, Instinctive.
We are not "Sighting down the Shaft", we are place the point at a specific location. That way the arrow does not have to be so high that we can see from nock to point. That is more like String Walking.
Signed, GAP Shooter Lefty, Instinctive Rightie :)
Thanks A101. One of your other videos finally cleared it up for me. Good vids. BTW
What I wish to know is, if I am somewhere in nature and want to hit a target to let's say simulate shooting a dear, how do I determine the distance and the gap in order to make the first one a kill shot. How can I determine the gap without missing the target and scaring the animal away?
You learn that in your training and set up. Once you get your bow set up, you start working on your GAPS, once you have it down, you do not have to stop and think about it.
You will know what to do through repetition.
Hello sir, any thoughts on gap vs string walking? I will be experimenting this off season and any thoughts appreciated. Thanks and Happy New Year!
Nice jump and pathfinder wings on the bow.
Ok this was a great how to and I understood it! But I have a problem... And that problem is that I can't hit the target consistently enough to determine my gap. It would probably help if I had a heavier draw weight and better arrows...
My bow is 15 lbs I think, and my arrows are pretty much all trash...
Great point, The first thing you need to have is a consistent and repeatable shot cycle. Now, if you do not, you will see an improvement, but not much of one. Heavier draw weights hide flaws, lighter draw weights expose and exaggerate them. I also GAP with a 25 pound bow. It can be done, just take longer and requires a more defined shot cycle. Arrows are important, to a point. I can shoot pretty good with incorrect arrows. Just work on having a consistent and repeatable shot cycle. That is the biggest thing.
Alright thanks so much!
This may be a Dumbass question but how do you shoot a 800 spine arrow out of a 41lb bow?
I shoot a 43lb Bob Lee recurve with 500 spine goldtip trads 29.74 inch long 125gn points,
baresharft tuned any longer shoots like crap....
I also shoot 600's with a 145 grain point out of my 50 pound bow. How? Great question. I just seem to be able to make them work. I seem to be the exception rather than the rule.
Neophyte speaking.... how could there be any other way?
I am new to archery but not new to hunting and in particular shotgun for waterfowl where you have to adjust your aim for distance, flight direction etc. Concept is loosely the same, so not sure why anyone would 'bad-mouth' gap shooting.
Because there are people that believes they do not aim. They call it "Instinctive" They claim to only look at the target. They refuse to acknowledge or admit that it is learnt. They also believe this to be "true" traditional archery and the GAP is wrong. To each their own.
Oh, I get it... it is magic! haha. Of course they aim. They may not scientifically break down the steps to doing so, but they aim and lucky for them Devine Providence has given their brain the ability to calculate the wind, elevation, speed, etc to be on target.
so if your ten yards away only your going to aim lower than the target? why would you do that if the arrow has almost no trajectory?
+seth smith All arrows have a trajectory and the steepest curve up is the first 10 to 20 yards. So to compensate for that your point must be below your target, and it is for most distances with a trad bow.
What do you mean by "put the arrow on it"? Do I just aim down the arrow and have the arrow head sitting right on the nail?
I cannot see the point per se in my vision, the arrow just drops off (like the hood of your car). I place the end of the arrow (That I can see) at a predetermined point from where I want it to hit at a certain distance. There is a point where the trajectory of the arrow and you line of sight down the arrow meet, that is called "Point On". When that happens you simply put the arrow on where you want it to hit. At all other ranges the arrow is either above or below where you want it to hit.
wonder why he never hit the red dot once after all the gapping. maybe just point and shoot.
I still don't understand gap. What are you aiming at if not the orange disk.
You got it, you aim at the orange disk using the tip of the arrow. Due to trajectory, the arrow will impact at a different spot. GAP is simply figuring out that difference for various distances.
Does that make sense?
When you say aim that means you are aiming the point of your arrow right? Just asking cause I want to try this!
Yes, I pick a spot and put the point of the arrow on that spot.
Hey archery 101 ! Just found your video. From my understanding, basically if i want to shoot on the target i have to take in acount arrow trajectory right?
But can you give me on how should i aim my arrow horizontally? I mean, my arrow seems to always moves to the right of my desired target point
How are you shooting? By this mean Instinctive or a sighting method.
As for arrow flight, that could be many things and to say what it is without knowing your equipment or seeing you shoot would be giving bad advice. I would suggest working on getting a repeatable form (Shot Cycle) first. Once you start getting nice sized groups, then you can start looking at equipment.
Archery 101 Thanks, will do. Im just a beginner with 28lbs bow. And i used to do instinctive.
Were those jump wings on your riser? Master Blaster? Which outfit?
Yes 168 jumps. Love my "Master Blasters". Served with the 1/509th in Italy, 101st Pathfinders and in the Pathfinders in Korea. AATW!
Great stuff! I grew up near Bragg, and used to drive by the barracks of the 509th MP Battalion on the way to Lee Field house. Dad was SF, can't for the life of me remember whether it was the 5th or the 7th. I was Air Force Security Police, but was fortunate enough to get to train with the boys from Bad Tolz back in the 80's. Great Days. Thanks for your service.
0:50 What's chagectary?
can you change your point on by changing you nock? so if I want to shoot gap but want my gap to be smaller can I lower or raise my nock to bring my point on or gap closer to my aiming spot?
Yes sir, moving your nock will adjust your GAP. Here is what I do. I figure out at what range (read distance) that I want my point on to be. I then move my nock til that happens. Then from there I find my GAP's for all others.
so if I'm shooting 16" high at 20 yards do I move my nock up or down? I've only been shooting my recurve for about 6 months. I'm not bad but I shoot purely instinctive and don't know any other way. I tried tonight to find my gap and I have a hard time seeing the tip of my arrow at full draw.. I was thinking of painting my field tips or getting stainless.
You will not see the tip. Just like you cannot see the front end of your car. You will be able to out to a certain point and that is what you use.
As for the nock, yes, you would move it up. But be careful, too much movement will affect arrow flight.What poundage is your bow? 16" at 20 is around the normal. Getting it to less than 12" will be tough unless you are using a competition bow with an alloy riser.
46#. They fly great so I'll try moving it up about a 1/16-1/8 and see how that does. Love your videos!! I learned so much from watching them 3-4 times each. Thank you so much sir!
arent you going off of though, whats good enough? what if you wanted to hit center target gold target shooting 10's all day would this be consistent? seems to me youre just going off of let you get in that area. what if i wnated to hit a penny on a target this wouldnt allow me to hit that penny would it
Gap will allow you to hit a penny. Just set you point on for that distance and simply put the arrow over the penny and as long as you have decent form, you will hit it.
Is it point on that full draw or point on before you draw
Full draw
@@TradArchery101 thanks I have been doing it the other way for years I will try it tomorrow thanks heaps
HI Archery 101
I shoot a Kodiak legend 4o lbs with full length arrows.My draw length is 31 so i have about 46 lbs on the fingers.
I have a gap at ten yards of 32 inches and at 20 yards of 43 inches.
Can you imagin why my gap is so big?
It makes it very difficult.
Thanks for help!
+Jürgen Schmidt
Split finger or 3 under? Larger Gaps are normal for split finger.
+Archery 101
Split finger and i think an extremely fast bow with carbons.Also,regarding your new video i think my nock point is a bit too low.
Is that possible ??
Greets from germany :-)
+Valerian Schmidt
Split Finger will result in a much larger GAP. Fast is good in that the bow should have a flatter trajectory, which should translate into less variation in your GAP. A low nock point can have some affect on your GAP yes.
Maybe u can answer my question. Im new to traditional recurve shooting. I was under impression for around 40# draw and ur arrow length the arrow spine should be around .400-.500. I hear alot of guys in hear shooting higher spine. Am I misunderstanding something
f jc
No you are not. But you do not have all the information. The biggest thing outside of draw weight that affects the spine needed is how your bow is cut.
A bow cut past center needs a stiffer spine than one cut to center. And a bow cut to center needs a stiffer spine than one not cut to center.
A bow not cut to center has “Paradox” and this means it must flex more to get around the riser.
Also, the type string you use affects it.
As a general rule when looking up your arrows spine. You need to:
Subtract five pounds off your draw weight if the bow is not cut to or past center
Subtract five pounds if you are not using a Fast Flight string.
So in stead of a 40 pound bow, you should be looking for arrows for a 30 pound bow. And that is why I use the arrows I do.
Hope this helps
@@TradArchery101 yes great help! Ty very much. 👍🏻and for such a fast response
@@TradArchery101 forgot one thing. How do u tell if bow is cut center or past. Not sure what that means
f jc
Good question. Most metal bows are cut past center. They can handle the stress.
On a wooden bow, you measure at the cut out down by the shelf.
The cut is where the riser is on the shelf. Equal distance on both sides is center. More shelf is past and more rise is not.
@@TradArchery101 ok.i.think I understand. I have a traditional Mongolian recurve no shelf or rest(off hand). And just ordered a takedown black hunter recurve
Is this the same as using hold over and under for rifle shooting?
In some aspects yes. i relate it to "Kentucky Windage"
hi there. so what is the point that we are looking at ? the arrow tip or the target with the prepial of the arrow and its tip?
Great question. You can do either. When you learn, look at the tip. But after a while you can change your focus to the target. It is really called Split Vision, but it is still GAP Shooting.
+Archery 101 Thanks for that!! by the way. i have an off topic question. I have a crappy recurve pvc bow and im saving for a samick sage. im about 36" draw length (measured my arm lengths and divide it by 2). im planning on getting the 30# because i dont feel like im that strong yet. Is the samick sage good to use for my draw length? and also should i stop shooting with the pvc because it might mess proper forms?
I don't think you have a 36" draw length. The average is 28". If you really have a 36" inch draw length, you would need a custom bow and custom arrows. Here is one way to find your draw length. Get an arrow and mark it starting from the nock in one inch increments. Then have a friend watch you draw and see what it is when you are at anchor.
+Archery 101 ok thank you very much sir!
Hey, i've just started getting into archery and loving it even though i can't aim consistently. I've always been told Gap shooting has more cons than pro's so i went for learning instinctive and i'm doing terribly with my consistency. Your video seems much better for me so i think i'll give it a shot, i just have one important question. My arrows seem to go to the sides a lot so being able to have my arrows hit directly above the dot will be quite hard for me, any reason why this is? My draw length is 29" and im using a 24 foot long recurve, im scared of pulling it all the way back to my anchor. am i right in fearing this or will it take it?
Who ever told you GAP has more con's than pro's does not know GAP. In the tournament area the most accurate method is String Walking, then GAP and in last is instinctive. GAP is not for everyone, but it is awesome for those who take the time to work with it.
Are they consistently going to one side or the other?
The first thing to do is just put the point of the arrow on a dot, spot, mark, etc. and shot a bunch of arrows. Do not worry about hitting it or getting close to it. Just see where they are landing.Once you have a nice group, then you can start making adjustments.
How big is your bow? 24 feet is not accurate. What model is it?
Thankyou for the fast response, They are consistently going to the right. Ive just spent the last 2 hours shooting trying to find it but my arrows have no consistency to them at all. my bow is a beginner 24pound at 63" it says on it. I put the arrowhead so it covers the mark i made and just kept firing, but each were different heights aswell as to the right.
What spine are your arrows? Also is the bow cut to center? By this I mean how far into the wood is the cut out section out where the arrow rest?
+Archery 101 the bows quite old, its cut to centre, looks very similar to the ones you use in your videos just with removable limbs. the arrows came with the bow as a present and there's no indication of the spine on them, they seem very basic
So from what I can gather, it looks like your arrows are too stiff. That is why they are constantly going off to the right. What weight point are you using? What you might want to try is to use a heavier point.
how dou u use it at longer distances? works great at distances up to 30 m
When I shoot at targets over thirty I just aim over the target. I normally pick a spot in the trees behind it and aim for that. For me, it is easier to judge distance over the target, don't know why but it just is
👍🏻🇨🇦
What about swinging left and right ?
Not sure what you mean, please clarify
Kentucky windage?
Yes, it is an old aiming method. The name came from the old "Kentucky Rifle" and how those frontiersmen used them to shoot targets at far distance and in high winds.
What it boils down to is adjusting where the barrel points in order to hit the target. Here is a great example:
At work I was qualifying on the AR with a aimpoint sight (An optical sight that displays a little red dot, simply put the dot on what you want to hit and squeeze the trigger). My first group hit the target in the left shoulder, even though my dot was center mass. So on my next group I moved the dot to the lower right (the opposite of what I did before) and hit dead center. That is called "Kentucky Windage"
hello greg, i was wondering how do i gap downhill and opphill?
+Øystein Martinsen
Great questions and not one with a simple answer. It all depends on the circumstances. In most traditional archery ranges (shots fro 5 to 25 yards) there is no adjustment needed. But with shots out around 30 yards, (again this is determined by the draw weight of the bow) the degree of the shot (uphill or downhill) plays a big part.
On Sunday you will see me make a shot that is about 30 yards out, off a cliff that is 20 to 25 feet up in elevation. I aimed spot on (which that bow is set for at 30, it is 47 pound draw)and the arrow hit where I was aiming.
So, it is tough to give a set answer. Sorry.
Aha oki, is it oki to shoot gap with the non dominant eye closed? Find it hard to focus on the arrow and the target when i gap. I normaly shoot instingtiv.
Closing an eye is fine, a lot of GAP shooters do that.
Once you have your GAP down (Knowing the distance at the set yardage) you do not have to look down the arrow as much. It becomes very much like instinctive.
What you are doing is training your mind to recognize the correct GAP. I no longer look down the arrow, I see the GAP in my peripheral vision and shoot off how it feels.
Aha thanks
So, you know that gap shooting is not instinctive archery right?
Never said it was. And, once you have your GAP down (memorizing the sight picture), it becomes very much like instinctive. I do not go: Okay I'm xxx yards away so I must aim XXX under / over. Nope I stare at where I want it to hit, draw, use my peripheral vision to make sure it is where it needs to be and if it feels right, I shoot.
I shoot instinctive right handed and GAP left handed. Been shooting instinctive since the 70's, so I know a thing or two about it.
Kentucky Windage.
When I first heard of it, that is what I thought
you didn't fully describe your anchor and how to set the nock point, I will start searching through your videos otherwise very informative I started gap shooting a week ago and now I can hit things
I didn't describe my anchor because so many people do it differently. Use an anchor you are comfortable with. As for the nocking point, I use either string or brass. I adjust it by moving it until I get my point on at 30 yards with good arrow flight.
wow, quick and complete answer, thanks
I ask about anchor because I want to try different techniques untilI find what works best for me. I can hit a target butt at 50m and sometimes the target, outdoors is new to me as I learned indoors at 20 yards and never a change (been shooting indoors about 9 months, outdoors one week)
I realized I need a higher anchor point as the target was behind my hand at 50m. I am currently anchoring the feather to the tip of my nose.
Today I found out that I was shooting gap all this time.... 😅
Thanks for the explanation but it's not for me. I prefer to shoot instinctive. Gap in not for everybody and instinctive is not for everybody. Do what works for YOU
i have that exact bow but 50 pound draw
If you are doing well with instinctive shooting, why bother learning gap shooting?
Why? Because how do you know if it will make you better unless you try it?
Also, The vast majority of top archers use an aiming method, that is no coincidence.
Hi Greg! I enjoy your videos as you are a competent teacher. You keep it humorous as well as informative! On this particular video, I wanted to point out that, when you pointed to the gap shooting video, there was nothing there....at least on my end. Thanks again and keep them coming!
Sorry about that. When i made the video, you could link one at any point. Then UA-cam changed where were you can only link at the end.