New treads for old stairs
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- Опубліковано 28 січ 2012
- woodgears.ca/home/stair_treads...
applying new hardwood stair treads over an old set of stairs.
Please note: After removing the thickness of carpeting, the first tread was too low. Adding these threads didn't "make the first step too high", it actually made it the right height. - Навчання та стиль
![ПОЛНАЯ ИСТОРИЯ ЭКЗОРЦИЗМА [Топ Сикрет]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qBySr6Bt0B8/mqdefault.jpg)
@Matthiaswandel It's actually a pocket of air in the glue from filling the tube that gets pressurized when you pump it. The pressurized air continues to push glue out after you release the tension from the gun. It drives me crazy - seems like half the tube can pump out after each use.
What you said at the end was funny.... It shows you are sincere thanks.
Matthias I think you do a great job, and showing in the end that not every project end up 100% perfect only makes me like your videos even more -. We all screw up a little sometimes and showing it in public is unfortunately almost non existing in todays world. I enjoy your videos very much please keep them comming.
Matthias, you are a friggin' artisan when it comes to woodworking... you made your father proud, bless his soul.
great job. Love the end admission of the professionals being worth the dollar! very transparent. If you had a stair bevel you would have nailed this 100% with your already extremely honed attention to detail.
+ matthias wandel
a beautiful job! those gaps were barely noticeable, and id be super happy to have something like this in my house. you did really well!
Luci Venom paddle stairrs
The reason he ended up with the gaps on the sides was because he cut square, which he mentioned in the video. They make a tool for measuring the treads so you get the correct angles, and a perfect fit. But the reality is they're made out of wood, all wood, even engineered wood moves. He did an acceptable job even at a professional level.
My old stairs had carpeting on them. I removed and painted them but they look awful and some squeak badly. Will putting treads and risers over existing treads silence and make them feel more solid or should I remove and put on new from scratch? The existing wood seems like cheaper lumber. Thanks in advance.
I am studying electrical engineering and i dont know anything about woodwork but i watched all of your videos. I found them really interesting. I just love the way you think and paying attention to every detail. Can't wait your next video.
Always amazed when I see professionals at work with wood - you guys make it look so easy!
Retro fit sells a riser that is 1/4" thick primed. I installed a set of these and it turned out great! You could also just use 1/4" plywood as well instead of 3/4" risers.
Thanks Matthias, your vids are always informative and entertaining. I like how you learn and experiment as you go...thanks for sharing, keep up the good work.
Sometimes you just like watching someone who knows what they are doing, doing the things they know.
Alexander Borsi but he clearly didn't know what he was doing on this project.
mark schiavone he knew what he was doing. Free work to help out some friends. It doesn't have to be perfect.
MrTarfu you are wrong about that!!! if you do a job for someone you do it to the best of your ability whether free or top dollar. I've been a contractor for over 30 years and that is how I do it in my humble opinion.
@demetri kavoukas "we are did you hit the stairs from" *WTF does that even mean?*
You take great pride in your work. Even though you like your work to be perfect and the things you're are not happy about in the end are barely noticeable.
Excellent job! I wish contractors could all do this quality of work.
The risers should not be fitted down onto the top surface of the threads.
With foot traffic bearing down on those threads a gap is going to appear along all those joints.
I love your approach to general diy, the guys who do the treads at $120 per step don't take care in making things look perfect and probably wouldn't have ripped down the back of the risers just so it's less overhang, great job Matthias
Hey…I had a friend that bought a new house and then installed Maple flooring. She wanted the existing staircase done up in Maple as well (the original staircase was meant to be carpeted and was very rough although it was new). The builder wanted a lot of money to do Maple steps! I cut the bullnose off the old steps first, made a pattern of the stringer and laminated it first with Maple plywood, then did the treads and risers the same way you did without shimming anything. The risers were 1/4" Maple plywood. I made the treads out of solid Maple with a bullnose. It was a lot of work but came out great!
if you were doing this for someone else you would probably charge the same as the builder wanted.
This is a very pleasant to guy to watch and learn from gentle soul ✌🏿️man your Awsome!!!,,
You summed it up at the end about the amount of work needed to do this type of job and that it won't be inexpensive to have someone do it for you.
Looks good. I used a standard tread and ripped 1/4 oak plywood for the stringers and risers. So put risers and stringers (I did the stringers too) on first so you can squeeze the tread in tight. Then just put a piece of cove or something to hide any gap from the top of the riser to the tread, I'm not a carpenter and I was able to knock-out 14 steps in an evening. I'm sure there's a hundred different ways. Your friends must love you for taking care of this
That last line was him regretting that he'd say he'd do it free of charge.
he said he'd*
😂🤣😂
Even if a mate does offer to do something for free you still insist on paying them. They probably have kids and a mortgage. If you can't afford it then you wait or do without luxuries. People are just not prepared to pay for quality these days.
forget the accuracy, this is a very good job!!
I love ALL your videos, man. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing your knowledge and enthusiasm.
I love all your videos, but the ones dealing with air/rotation/motion are the best
The risers and treads on these stairs were mortised into the stringers, so to replace the treads and risers means replacing the whole stairs.
The stairs had carpet on them before, so putting these treads on just replaced the thickness of the carpet. I remember not having to make any adjustments for the bottom risers, sow with the new treads, they are all even. They were uneven after the carpet was removed.
Great job! Been doing that for years s and its very difficult to find a stairwell built that true and straight ....u usually have to measure and cut each board individually...u were pretty lucky!
Very nice job. We are always our own worst critic when it comes to gaps and other minor errors. It looks great to me.
I sell this product at my real job, and it's nice to see it being installed. Thanks for posting.
Adding the extra treads made the risers all even. They had carpet on them before, so they were already adjusted for being a bit lower on the bottom step and taller on the top.
Should have asked your buddy John to help. He has great construction skills.
Regardless of what method he used, he did a nice job! There are new products out there that make things more secure. Better glues, etc.
The last two were shot with a Nikon Coolpix S8200 - the video quality on that one is quite good, and it only cost me $250. Although the workshop scenes were shot earlier with an older Coolpix S6200, which is cheaper ($150) but not as good. More important than the camera is having good lighting.
WOW! So many good & not so good comments, but all are great to help you as a home owner do some deep thinking on having your stair treads exposed.
Why even consider doing this if it does not knock your socks off!
Some folks go with hardwood flooring added to the existing stair that looks like flooring on top of the stair, but most of us want it to look like a real professional built staircase when it's done!
As for the cost on a stair like this that is between two skirt-boards runs approx. $120 per rise depending on choice of materials.
Things that push the cost up from one staircase to the next is;
Do we have to remove some or all the existing treads so that we can maintain the proper riser height to meet code?
Do the existing stairs squeak now, & what to do?
Do we have to remove molding off of the skirt or rake wall cap to get the treads to fit nice & tight?
AND, of course, if the owner wants to help..... we double the price, lol. Stair Guy
Beautiful. Keep up the gorgeous work.
I've professionally installed these and hardwood on stairs the only tips I might give you is to allow the glue to stand open for a few minutes before applying the treads and risers. In the past I've had troubles with the glue curing if I skipped this. Also we tend to us a couple of playing card shims between pieces to keep a small space otherwise they can develop squeaks. Great job though just a couple of tricks I've learned along the way.
What a difference, looks great!
Hard work to be done correctly. Well done, Great video!
Wow !! You are amazing at what you do ! You are incredibly smart !
Please don't get me wrong, the job you do looks great when finished, but as I say just seems a hard way of going about it. Keep up the good work, as your videos obviously inspire people to take on their own projects, which i'm all in favour of.
Nice work , accurately and ingenuity .
+mircea motrescu my brother recommended *TopFineWoodworking .Com* for the best woodworking plans and I couldnt agree more after getting it. Tons of amazing plans for sheds in there
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Interesting video, thanks for sharing. Just about to do the same type of dressing up the old stairs. However, I will first modify one side of the close staircase to be an one side open tread staircase.
Matthias... Any wood worker knows when they finish they notice the flaws! Doubt i would have noticed it. The couple was probably thrilled! Good job for stepping up and taking the challenge. For the 1st time i give you mad props!
Awesome job Matthias, they look great.
trreb
our build code only allows for 1/4 inch difference between risers from top to bottom so that type of modification would be against building codes because of the difference in riser height
+Howard Moore It puts it back in spec, makes up for the missing carpet
I stand corrected LOL Just dont tell my daughter she has been after me for years to do hers. now if we could come up with an easy way to cover that ugly 2X12 I was surprised that a man of your ingenuity didn't make a jig to measure and copy the angle of the treads it a whole lot easier than making a band saw LOL
What a pain in the rear this would be. Matthias, your friends and family have a very valuable person in their life.
Hey Matthias ! You did a more than excellent job ! You're be surprised at the way I've seen jobs come out that professionals supposedly did ! Don't beat yourself up man ! You can go work for a stair company now if you wanted too ! Lol ! Great job man !
Very nice job, you're good at what you do.
I charge $150 a step. That's cutting them to fit with absolutely no gaps! Not saying you did a horrible job but they make tools ("Stair Wizard") for that. It sets the angles of the runners, lock it in at trace it on the tread. But doing the job free for a friend I like the way you did it lol!
You get rid of the gap by installing the complete riser and then the header. The header should be pushed back against the riser and not the other way around like he did. And also please start at the top of the staircase and work yourself down.
DallasCityOfChampions
I think the point was to avoid paying over $100 per step. And if that was done for my house I'd be delighted with his work.
I am sorry but not everyone is rich. So a DIY is perfect, insteed of paying over £1500 for stairs to be refurbished, his ideea is perfect, spending arround £200. Carpet will fit perfect after this and gaps will not be visible. I bought one house and did everything myself in it, saving until now £30000 of labouring costs. They are charging ridiculous amount of money for easy things. One guy asked £2000 to replace roof gutters this just for labour, another one asking £5000 for complete refurbish a small bathroom. Cheers
They look pretty good. One concern would be the air gaps behind the risers, i would worry about that making the steps overly loud.
I have absolutely interest in carpeting and i still watch his videos :O
They look great. Good job.
At 6:23 my wife hated you....planing onto the piece of carpet... :) Don't worry. You're in good company. Good inspiration for getting our stairs done.
Yes, I know this, but no, it doesn't stop the leakage. The piston in the tube doesn't move back, so it doesn't take off all the pressure. The old ratcheting caulking guns are a little better in that the pressure gets taken off automatically.
+Mattias Wandel You need your own network show.
hi mathias, dank dir weiss ich jetzt wie treppen erneuert werden können, ich mag deine videos, sind alle super erklärt und verständlich. Danke
It hadn't occurred to me that this work would cause back problems in some.
So nice to know you make house calls. I'm looking for someone to clean my gutters this spring.
Stairs are actually a 2 step process performed by 2 completely different carpenters. A frame carpenter 'roughs in' a set of steps during the framing phase, later a trim carpenter covers that rough frame with finish grade materials.
A1: The riser covers the nails he used on the back of the treads.
A2: If you look close at the stairs in the video you can see that the old finish grade material has been removed.
A3: He donated his time as a gift, I'm sure they were as honored as I would be.
I found profiled treads or front edge beading to be quite expensive... replaced my carpeted stairs with round profile cedar planks instead... had to build out the stairs, as the steps were neither consistent nor sufficiently deep enough... got rushed thru the job, so have also those gaps you pointed out at the end... thinking of putting moulding - at least in the middle of the steps on top of the gap between flats & risers
I watch all of your videos. I have learned a lot from them
Dennis ..
PS you humble me....
what a great friend! you did a great job!!!
I am a professional painter, and one of the cheapest, but most effective discoveries has been the DRIPLESS caulking gun. It has a rubber bushing between the plunger and rachet assembly, it allows almost all the pressure to be released when the handle is depressed. For dap (alex plus) it eliminates the drip. For thicker materials, like PL, it is greatly reduced. In W.Canada, get them at paint stores, general paint or Cloverdale, for like 8 bucks. I'd never go back to the old guns after using one!
I've done my share of "recapped" stairs. They do tend to be a lot of work, and are pretty expensive (we usually send at least 2 guys on install, which is 90$/hour). We also usually need to saw-off the existing bull-nose edge on the fronts of each existing step, which adds to the work/time involved.
Those must be really good friends if you do all that work for them. :)
Actually, they were NOT the same height when I started, and now they are even. The steps were a bit lower to compensate for the carpet that was on them before.
I don't speak english but i think that this videos are more ingenious thanks for give your ideas and knowledge
As finish carpenter and stair builder for 35 years, I never installed threads. I always put up TREADS! My seamstress wife used the threads.
Phill Saska yea, I noticed that as well, but I believe he only called them threads the first time he said it. he said it correctly after that. besides, he's Canadian, idk, but maybe they pronounce it differently there. I know people from the UK call bushings "bushes".
rocket man Actually, he is German but lives in Canada..
Nice video, thanks for posting it!
why dont just take thinner boards for your risers, like 6mm plywood instead of 18 ?
Lord Samaels that would be too easy
Lord Samaels thats my problem with this method..it would put my first step over 8 inches..im very anal about stuff and i just cant live with that
Exactly what I was thinking, & I don't know very much about it.
It just makes sense.
possibly the thicker risers are to cover up the gap between the base riser and the finish treads
Hopefully you didn't make the mistake of assuming that every step was exactly identical. Unfortunately, not everything people do is perfect like your work. Most contractors that specialize in stairs are just good at adjusting to pre-existing imperfections.
Tell me about it, every step adds a little error. The layout is generally spot on, concrete's usually pretty good, but it all goes out the window once the framers show up.
The lumber coming off the truck off square, makes every subsequent job harder.
Hello Matthias,
I was admiring your recording quality on your newer videos and was wondering which camera it was.
Great videos, keep it up :D
admitting that you screwed up is why I subscribed!! I thought that it's impossible that these risers and treads were square to the skirt boards.
Joy to watch! As usual.
Your treads still overhang the stair skirt? And I make my own custom red oak treads with white laminated risers for less than 40$ installed.
Its cool to watch you work :)
Great video. I'm planning to do the same, but my treads have 1/8" to 3/16" depressions from foot traffic. Any suggestions on how to fill this before putting the new tread?
Smart guy, nice job you got as close to perfect as you could , good job nevertheless. And don't let yourself down. If I was your client and you did my stairs like that wouldn't even mind the slight to minimal errors
Might as well use the risers that came with the tread and riser kits. And beveling thin stock wouldn't really work.
Not sure if you know this, but you can press the little handle on the back of the adhesive gun to take of the pressure so it doesn't leak when you lay it down between uses.
Great job Mathias, but i like to ask you a question? How do you deal with the difference in hight on the first and last riser, or do you assume that everyone is doing new flooring when they retread their stairs. Thanks Cheers
Nice work slippers!
$120 is cheap, they are more expensive pre finished, it's amazing the amount of work that goes into this. I have to point out that the nosing still extends past the stringer board. It may have been better to just remove the original nosing?
the stairs he is dealing with here have a slight incline on them and there is no nosing. he would have probably made a lot more work for himself if he did. There are a few mistakes hes making and the stairs themselves will probably be notably looser than the professionally installed ones but he humbly admits at the end of the video the pros know what they're doing. Just a few things i noticed is that he uses nowhere near enough glue, the backs of the steps shouldn't have been cut shorter as they're false caps which almost certainly have a 9.25 inch coverage space thats code in most places. the risers should go on before the steps and the stair should go into the riser because of the inconsistent shape of the original spruce hes covering(reason for gap he points out). Most of the work on this stair case would have been in the staining and finishing which is time sensitive i personally would have had them cut in and installed in about 2 hours.
@@barsark254 q
You found a portercable brad nailer in a dumpster? Good find.
I like your work !
I always cut the nosing off the old step,this way the new thread cover`s the riser and reaches the back of the step your installing.Your job looks really good,now you can sand and stain those steps.LOL.Then your friends will really love you.
looks very clean...nice one
UA-cam comments: too many experts, not enough expertise!
dlwatib I’m a stair expert and I found this video horrific.
@@IanSmithKSP I'm a universal expert and I find this comment horrific
Simon48 a universal expert is an oxymoron
@@IanSmithKSP WHy?
It does, but it wasn't really noticeable walking up and down the steps.
You're a great friend
That’s super nice of you
I worked for a company that had a division that did commercial remodeling and one time they did a project near my city so I visited them a few times. In a building's interior, nothing that looks: flat, square or straight, actual is. They had knock down tool platforms and cut everything on site, moving the tools as they went. They had many jigs; cutting a bit off of 90', cutting circles, cutting ellipses, and others. They all carried and used often a block plane. Years of exp. for ea. man.
Beautiful work, but I had to cringe when you walked around the table saw and PULLED the stock through to finish the cut. I've had far to many years getting drilled into my head that you NEVER pull material through a table saw. It's way to easy to force a cut out of square that way.
Exactly my thoughts....bad for many scenarios
It also looked like there was a nasty burn mark on the material, albeit on the hidden side.
Dud i could watch you work all day
Great video, if you installed like each person said there would still be those to criticize. Great savings and they look beautiful.
Nice job, stairs are difficult and lots of work.
Old comment I know, however it would be a 3/4" increase from the base floor to the first step, and a 3/4" decrease from the top step and the top floor. All the other steps would remain at an equal distance.
Great vid!
Where did your friend PU buy the tread and riser? And how much?
Yo dog, I heard you like stairs...
On a more serious note, you're a master of your craft.
You did good!👏👏👏
Question 2. Also since you were applying your treads over existing treads how did you address the part of the code that says: "The greatest riser height within any flight of stairs shall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8 inch" In other words is you first riser the same height ±3/8" as the top riser?
Great video. What would you use to fill the gaps that you point out at the 7:10 mark in the video??
Good job man,but i found its easier to install all the riser first.O by the way you definitely get the Stair Master tool to get the perfect measurements for each step.