I thought, I was the first to do this design, this guy did it 8 years ago! I built these stairs for a tiny house in my backyard. In addition to screws I also used glue for each support and I secured brackets under each support.
We bought a house built in 1955 that has this same stair design leading to the basement. Works pretty well, but eventually the supports wear out if they're not thick/tall enough.
Love this! Simple and easy! Im going to use this method to build some stairs, after looking at tons of websites and videos, finally i found something easy enough that i can do! Thanks for this video!!! :-) 💚
As any engineer will tell you. Anybody can design a bridge but it takes an engineer to design one that does the job without over building that just adds to the cost. Great job. Simple, ease of construction and does the job.
No treally sure why people complain. Eveyone is like they have milions and they can afford just OAK and veneer quality and luxury. This staircase is awesome as Silver Fox is saying. If you don't like them you probably look to much at TV and see the milion dollars houses. Come down on earth all of you.
Flawless craftsmanship. Walking down the steps looks like would be a little difficult due to close spacing between each step. Besides that, excellent video!
The cut stringers at big box stores like Home Depot, Lowes, and Menards in the USA can cost more. It's actually not to hard to cut your own stringers too. Great Job!
Thanks for sharing your work . I'm sure this is OK for an indoor job which I've seen in our store front rental units. As per load capacity, I will not suggest any over 250 LB.
Sure beats measuring and cutting multiple stringers to exact dimensions. I like the look as well. I have an outdoor deck with stairs to a landing. There has to be a stringer in the middle though. If I adopt this design, I just have to cut steps in the middle stringer.
I did this similar way.Instead of cutting out the stringers thus weakening the wood I did as in video nailed the stringers.Another factor cost 2x12 wood is $$$$$ at least where I live.By nailing the stringers you can go thinner thus saving money and still super strong structure.
Some additional thoughts: Houses used to be commonly built, without the notched stringers as seen here, and allowable by code in many areas as long as the span is not too great, and the thick treads of proper material are used. However, for houses, most are normally built on a variation of what is shown here for the reasons below. - The front of the side tread supports, do not extend beyond the front edge of the treads. They are cut well behind the treads, with the front face of the tread supports also positioning and bucking the tops of the risers to position them and prevent the top of the riser from being kicked in. The rear end of the side tread supports is not critical, and only need to be the length of the tread or longer to support the riser of the tread above it. While the treads and stringers are made of 2-by-?, the risers were normally made of 1-by-?. When using 1-by-? it is common to have a square piece at the top, back side of the riser, that runs along its span, that is screwed into the riser and to the end of the tread it is supporting. However, it has also become common to use 2-by-? for the risers. The advantages are it eliminates the need to make the commonly added square piece because it is thick enough to allow you to cross-drill from back, top, of the riser into the tread above, or screw through the tread above into the thicker riser. It doesn't flex when kicked thereby keeping it tighter. - The rear, top of the side tread supports, support the bottom of the riser which provides support for the tread resting on top of it, and to prevent the bottom from being kicked in, is screwed into the edge of the tread. - Once you determine the layout of the steps, ensure the stringers are wide enough to where the edges of the treads do not protrude above the the stringer. Flush or below are fine. In the video they are flush. Note: There are published standards for stairs for the U.S. and EU. The U.S. standards seem more practical, with the EU standards often being over the top. However, it is not uncommon for some construction in the U.S. to be required to build to the EU standard. If you do the work, you often do not have to follow the standards, and almost always will be seen as grandfathered in if you are the homeowner, and not a carpenter doing the work as part of your business and/or to please a lending institution on a new building. However, you can learn a lot from the standards from a practical perspective that came from years of experience refining what are the safest parameters that prevent people tripping, losing their balance, proper headroom, angles, widths, rail distances, the maximum unsupported span between stringers per thickness of wood etc. My example adds the use of risers, but they are required in homes in most cases, and it isn't foremost to make the steps look good or strength. Risers prevent your foot from going too far forward and then hooking your toes when going to the next step and forces your steps to be more consistent. Moreover, the step above should overhang the step below by a minimum of 3/4 inch and a maximum of 1 1/4 inch, known as the "nosing". Steps without risers are more commonly seen on commercial buildings, but to meet code, they are required by code to have wide treads to maintain safety parameters. However, they are not appropriate for a normal house because they also require the opening for the stairwell much longer, which would consume a lot of floor space and look odd. You will learn that step heights must be very close to the same because people develop a gait within the first couple steps. This means you need to consider any flooring that will be added to the floors. On new construction it means the top step will be shorter and the bottom step longer, so the step height becomes the same after the flooring is installed. There are apps online that will calculate angles and dimensions for you from your supplied parameters. The apps are designed for notched stringers, but they illustrate the angles and where the bottoms of the treads and backs of the risers need to be.
I did this in my previous stairs project. It came out crazy solid. I want to replicate it in a better way. Are there better ideas around this design that takes the entire 2x12 width?
I don't think that would pass code in most areas. You have the skills, the tools and the track saw to make perfect stringers with a framing square. Always use three stringers and remember the adage for measurement "finish floor to finish floor" and you can't go wrong.
I need to replace some stairs that go to storage over a shop, they are outdoors. The originals were very similar to this but had metal brackets on the stringers to support the steps. Wouldn't attaching supports to the stringers for steps, instead of cutting the stringers for steps make them last longer as it's still a 2X10 instead of a 2x10 with huge sections cut out. I also doubt my ability to make all those cuts correctly, I don't understand why this wouldn't pass code (I won't be inspected but want to make them safe), other than not having a 3rd center stringer.
I made a stair case similar to this, only I made sure I put 2 lengths of threadbar between the strings a third and then 2 thirds up - that way the strings won't spread apart over time. Also glue every surface that you're screwing and these will be strong stairs. As they are - I wouldn't have much faith in them
I´d like to do a question (sorry for my english) I can see you are using thick steps, but the step´s support is holded by 3 screws, so all the weigth is supported by 6 screws. Is it right? Thank you very much for showing your job!
Bueno Javier, ten en cuenta que los tornillos son gruesos, yo no pondría más tornillos, si acaso uno más y , en todo caso, los soporte se pueden encolar.
Can you please share the measurements, the angles, ..and all numbers ..im interested in the space gain stairs with a high angle..thank you for the video
Solid (uncut) stringers are much stronger than pre-cut stringers you buy. They only have about 4 inches under the cut, while if you build it like this it's the full 8 or 10 inches. Ideal stairs are 7 inch risers and 11 inch treads but they can be a bit shallower to make all rises the same size: Very important. Learn to use a building square to mark their position. Very quick and easy.
Building staircases is not really so easy as it seems. It requires professional hands to build stairs. The manufacturing process of staircases is demonstrated nicely in the video, making it easier for a laymen to build stairs.
Thanks for sharing. Clearly people without experience need to do more research. As another commentator mentioned -- you must know your minimum rise and run before you settle on an angle... Again thanks for the video.
What size stringer was used and are the treads the same size as the stringer ie; all 8x2"? Looking to make one for a self build as temporary staircases cost £200-£250
These will probably do fine in a shop or garage but these style of stairs always make me think of a ladder. Especially without the risers. Too much time vs them not being more heavy duty. All framing is stacked if you pay attention. It utilizes wood strength for proper support.
These style stringer beams feel really steady when you are high up on them i know that because at my grandpas house that was built in the nineteen fourtys it has these same type of stairs but mainly these most likely do not feel steep because these stairs at my grandpas house are old
I wouldn't notch the top with sistered wood I would use maybe 6x6 that has been routed out in the middle leaving two edges and inside is some sort of metal bracket. Other than that it's a good video.
Each step is only being held by 6 screws (and in reality 3 screws since most of the weight is on one side or another) that easily bend due to the 1.5 inch bending moment from the wooden blocks. Well under 800 lbs. If they were replaced with typical metal hangers that have virtually zero moment and use 3 - 4 screws/hanger I would guess it would be at least twice as strong. I built a stair like the one in the video several years ago on a deck. Inevitably water and debris were trapped on top of the wooden blocks and they rotted first. Eventually it provided no compressive strength and the treads began to move as they were essentially only being held with unsupported screws sticking out of the stringers.
I did something similar I wanted mine to be a feature, so stained it and finished it with polyurethane. One tip, between coats of PU, sand down the stringers etc. but do not sand the actual treads of the stairs. That way they remain slightly rough with the grain that is lifted and this makes them safer.
@Leon thecat You haven't seen mine so why refer to it as a death trap? The load is not supported by screws. The stairs are let in to the supports. My only comment was not to rub down the treds of the steps as the roughness is actually useful.
@Leon thecat The contractr dealt with all that. It is several years ago. I had 2 staircases installed at the time. I should think around a hundred Leva.
I would cut the stair brackets to the same width of the stairs, and have the front of the brackets cut at a 90 to match the face of the steps. Then they would be hidden.
..ola mi compa ...kiero construir una silla de masajes Silla shiatsu .... komo ves si me pudieras mandar el video ... si vieras komo te lo voy a agradecer ... saludos ... voy a estar al pendiente de la manera mas sensacional y feliz ...
This would not pass building code where I live... Also, were those screws rated for structural work? Most lack the shear strength necessary for that...
Great stairs! Just wish there was someone describing the process step by step to go with the video. The music makes me want to sleep. Not conducive to learning. No music at all would be best, imo.
Is there not a nicer way to say things? The grouchiness in these comments is astounding. I could not even imagine living with any of these people. I would rather fall with this guy's stairs.
If you don't know how to build a staircase/steps properly just go to your local Lowe's or HD. They have stringers already cut and ready to go in different sizes. Just cut and add the steps yourself. Over time the steps in this video will collapse. Atleast glue the side supports on before screwing them. Looks cool though.
I thought, I was the first to do this design, this guy did it 8 years ago! I built these stairs for a tiny house in my backyard. In addition to screws I also used glue for each support and I secured brackets under each support.
We bought a house built in 1955 that has this same stair design leading to the basement. Works pretty well, but eventually the supports wear out if they're not thick/tall enough.
Love this! Simple and easy! Im going to use this method to build some stairs, after looking at tons of websites and videos, finally i found something easy enough that i can do! Thanks for this video!!! :-) 💚
Some people just love to criticize, the man did a great job. Simple , easy and it does the job.
Simpliest of all stairs video, thanks a lot.
the calm soothing music is a definite plus--I've been a carpenter since 1974 and built lots of stairs. Looks like a good thorough job.
What did you build? Shit houses??? lmao This thing should not even be on UA-cam unless it's under the joking category lmfao
You made it so simple, and I love it. Thanks for sharing. I appreciate it very much. 👍
As any engineer will tell you. Anybody can design a bridge but it takes an engineer to design one that does the job without over building that just adds to the cost.
Great job. Simple, ease of construction and does the job.
Been a carpenter for 25 years, nothing wrong with those stairs!! 👍👍
What do you build? Shit houses??? lmfao
That is scary - Carpenter my arse
No treally sure why people complain. Eveyone is like they have milions and they can afford just OAK and veneer quality and luxury. This staircase is awesome as Silver Fox is saying. If you don't like them you probably look to much at TV and see the milion dollars houses. Come down on earth all of you.
Parabéns ,genial , Deus abençoou com esse dom é muito caprichoso,abraço da Vovó Cida, Campos dos Goytacazes RJ Brasil
Flawless craftsmanship.
Walking down the steps looks like would be a little difficult due to close spacing between each step.
Besides that, excellent video!
thank you for sharing and showing us your expertise. i find it very easy to follow..thanks! job well done!
The cut stringers at big box stores like Home Depot, Lowes, and Menards in the USA can cost more. It's actually not to hard to cut your own stringers too. Great Job!
Thanks for sharing your work . I'm sure this is OK for an indoor job which I've seen in our store front rental units. As per load capacity, I will not suggest any over 250 LB.
What is the biggest problem with loads? the stairs? can you any improvements on this design?
Parabéns meu amigo, saiba que uma pessoa que mora bem longe de você aproveitou seu ensinamento. Que Deus te abençoe e te guarde.
Sure beats measuring and cutting multiple stringers to exact dimensions. I like the look as well. I have an outdoor deck with stairs to a landing. There has to be a stringer in the middle though. If I adopt this design, I just have to cut steps in the middle stringer.
I did this similar way.Instead of cutting out the stringers thus weakening the wood I did as in video nailed the stringers.Another factor cost 2x12 wood is $$$$$ at least where I live.By nailing the stringers you can go thinner thus saving money and still super strong structure.
Thanks for sharing your time and effort to the people
666
Isso é pra profissional!!!! ta de parabéns.
Wonderful idea my friend i need one here in my house thanks teaching me
Some additional thoughts: Houses used to be commonly built, without the notched stringers as seen here, and allowable by code in many areas as long as the span is not too great, and the thick treads of proper material are used. However, for houses, most are normally built on a variation of what is shown here for the reasons below.
- The front of the side tread supports, do not extend beyond the front edge of the treads. They are cut well behind the treads, with the front face of the tread supports also positioning and bucking the tops of the risers to position them and prevent the top of the riser from being kicked in. The rear end of the side tread supports is not critical, and only need to be the length of the tread or longer to support the riser of the tread above it. While the treads and stringers are made of 2-by-?, the risers were normally made of 1-by-?. When using 1-by-? it is common to have a square piece at the top, back side of the riser, that runs along its span, that is screwed into the riser and to the end of the tread it is supporting. However, it has also become common to use 2-by-? for the risers. The advantages are it eliminates the need to make the commonly added square piece because it is thick enough to allow you to cross-drill from back, top, of the riser into the tread above, or screw through the tread above into the thicker riser. It doesn't flex when kicked thereby keeping it tighter.
- The rear, top of the side tread supports, support the bottom of the riser which provides support for the tread resting on top of it, and to prevent the bottom from being kicked in, is screwed into the edge of the tread.
- Once you determine the layout of the steps, ensure the stringers are wide enough to where the edges of the treads do not protrude above the the stringer. Flush or below are fine. In the video they are flush.
Note: There are published standards for stairs for the U.S. and EU. The U.S. standards seem more practical, with the EU standards often being over the top. However, it is not uncommon for some construction in the U.S. to be required to build to the EU standard. If you do the work, you often do not have to follow the standards, and almost always will be seen as grandfathered in if you are the homeowner, and not a carpenter doing the work as part of your business and/or to please a lending institution on a new building. However, you can learn a lot from the standards from a practical perspective that came from years of experience refining what are the safest parameters that prevent people tripping, losing their balance, proper headroom, angles, widths, rail distances, the maximum unsupported span between stringers per thickness of wood etc. My example adds the use of risers, but they are required in homes in most cases, and it isn't foremost to make the steps look good or strength. Risers prevent your foot from going too far forward and then hooking your toes when going to the next step and forces your steps to be more consistent. Moreover, the step above should overhang the step below by a minimum of 3/4 inch and a maximum of 1 1/4 inch, known as the "nosing". Steps without risers are more commonly seen on commercial buildings, but to meet code, they are required by code to have wide treads to maintain safety parameters. However, they are not appropriate for a normal house because they also require the opening for the stairwell much longer, which would consume a lot of floor space and look odd. You will learn that step heights must be very close to the same because people develop a gait within the first couple steps. This means you need to consider any flooring that will be added to the floors. On new construction it means the top step will be shorter and the bottom step longer, so the step height becomes the same after the flooring is installed. There are apps online that will calculate angles and dimensions for you from your supplied parameters. The apps are designed for notched stringers, but they illustrate the angles and where the bottoms of the treads and backs of the risers need to be.
Amazing keep it up bro
Muy hermoso trabajo. Gracias por el video👍👍👍👍👍
I did this in my previous stairs project. It came out crazy solid. I want to replicate it in a better way. Are there better ideas around this design that takes the entire 2x12 width?
great job. Thanks for sharing
Amei parabéns ❤
Good looking steps: solid, get the job done.
@S W nails have only been holding weight for a few hundred years but personally, yes, I use screws.
Nyimak ni...pingin bikin kalau bangun rumah nanti...
Monggo mampir ya
I don't think that would pass code in most areas. You have the skills, the tools and the track saw to make perfect stringers with a framing square. Always use three stringers and remember the adage for measurement "finish floor to finish floor" and you can't go wrong.
I need to replace some stairs that go to storage over a shop, they are outdoors. The originals were very similar to this but had metal brackets on the stringers to support the steps. Wouldn't attaching supports to the stringers for steps, instead of cutting the stringers for steps make them last longer as it's still a 2X10 instead of a 2x10 with huge sections cut out. I also doubt my ability to make all those cuts correctly, I don't understand why this wouldn't pass code (I won't be inspected but want to make them safe), other than not having a 3rd center stringer.
I made a stair case similar to this, only I made sure I put 2 lengths of threadbar between the strings a third and then 2 thirds up - that way the strings won't spread apart over time. Also glue every surface that you're screwing and these will be strong stairs. As they are - I wouldn't have much faith in them
I´d like to do a question (sorry for my english) I can see you are using thick steps, but the step´s support is holded by 3 screws, so all the weigth is supported by 6 screws. Is it right? Thank you very much for showing your job!
Bueno Javier, ten en cuenta que los tornillos son gruesos, yo no pondría más tornillos, si acaso uno más y , en todo caso, los soporte se pueden encolar.
Only if you stand in the middle of a step. If you stand close to one side then your weight exerts force pretty much on only the 3 screws on that side.
Parabéns cara!
Você é um grande profissional!
Muy bien hecho tu trabajo, me gusta ese tipo de escalera.
Can you please share the measurements, the angles, ..and all numbers ..im interested in the space gain stairs with a high angle..thank you for the video
nice mate, helped a lot
22/07/21. Muito obrigado pela dica q perfeição Deus o abençoe.
Parabéns você grande proficional
Estupendo tu trabajo pero no me quejo pero con las erramienta que tu tienes quen no loase escala y muchas cosas mas ??
very very nice bro thank you for share this Video
Good job!!
Congratulations.
Solid (uncut) stringers are much stronger than pre-cut stringers you buy. They only have about 4 inches under the cut, while if you build it like this it's the full 8 or 10 inches. Ideal stairs are 7 inch risers and 11 inch treads but they can be a bit shallower to make all rises the same size: Very important. Learn to use a building square to mark their position. Very quick and easy.
muito bom, seria bom o seu áudio explicando o trabalho, no lugar da música!
na minha opinião!
good job friend 😙
La escalera está muy buena y fácil lástima que no tengo todas esas herramientas los videos siempre te la complican
very very nice bro thank you for share your experience
Very nice - Ricardo - Brasil.
This style of stairs is much stronger than cutting stringers. I guess the stringer style is done because it looks a little fancier.
Building staircases is not really so easy as it seems. It requires professional hands to build stairs. The manufacturing process of staircases is demonstrated nicely in the video, making it easier for a laymen to build stairs.
Thanks for sharing. Clearly people without experience need to do more research. As another commentator mentioned -- you must know your minimum rise and run before you settle on an angle... Again thanks for the video.
What size stringer was used and are the treads the same size as the stringer ie; all 8x2"?
Looking to make one for a self build as temporary staircases cost £200-£250
Pre drilling construction lumber....next level.
need to show more :) landing and the floor Hight . What about hand rails ?
sencillo sin complicaciones. justo lo que buscaba.
These will probably do fine in a shop or garage but these style of stairs always make me think of a ladder. Especially without the risers.
Too much time vs them not being more heavy duty.
All framing is stacked if you pay attention. It utilizes wood strength for proper support.
Gostei muito de sua forma de resolver a questão. Parece muito com o que estou fazendo.
Gratidão por compartilhar.
Good 👍
Great job
These style stringer beams feel really steady when you are high up on them i know that because at my grandpas house that was built in the nineteen fourtys it has these same type of stairs but mainly these most likely do not feel steep because these stairs at my grandpas house are old
If you like woodworking just look for Wood Prix instructions
So I assume the clamping etc not necessary if u have 4x4 already right?
I wouldn't notch the top with sistered wood I would use maybe 6x6 that has been routed out in the middle leaving two edges and inside is some sort of metal bracket. Other than that it's a good video.
Nice!
How much weight can they handle?
Haven't tested it, but I would guess at least 800 lb / 360 kg.
HA that's great!
Each step is only being held by 6 screws (and in reality 3 screws since most of the weight is on one side or another) that easily bend due to the 1.5 inch bending moment from the wooden blocks. Well under 800 lbs. If they were replaced with typical metal hangers that have virtually zero moment and use 3 - 4 screws/hanger I would guess it would be at least twice as strong. I built a stair like the one in the video several years ago on a deck. Inevitably water and debris were trapped on top of the wooden blocks and they rotted first. Eventually it provided no compressive strength and the treads began to move as they were essentially only being held with unsupported screws sticking out of the stringers.
Well hes screwed them onto a massive 10mm of plasterboard. Also he has been extra clever and not used any truss rods. Bombproof! Not...
+Dave Clarke Looks to me like the screws are in line with the studs in the plasterboard wall. No idea what a truss rod is.
NICE !!!!!
muito bom , ficou ótima , parabéns
I did something similar I wanted mine to be a feature, so stained it and finished it with polyurethane. One tip, between coats of PU, sand down the stringers etc. but do not sand the actual treads of the stairs. That way they remain slightly rough with the grain that is lifted and this makes them safer.
@Leon thecat Mine is as solid as a rock.
@Leon thecat You haven't seen mine so why refer to it as a death trap? The load is not supported by screws. The stairs are let in to the supports. My only comment was not to rub down the treds of the steps as the roughness is actually useful.
@Leon thecat Yes, it is to code.
@Leon thecat The contractr dealt with all that. It is several years ago. I had 2 staircases installed at the time. I should think around a hundred Leva.
@Leon thecat Why don't we just bring this to a close? Not sanding the treads of stairs works well.
Excelente 👍 👍 👍 CDMX.
I would cut the stair brackets to the same width of the stairs, and have the front of the brackets cut at a 90 to match the face of the steps. Then they would be hidden.
darn good job
What do they call these type of stairs
Bravo complimenti
It’s like I get it, but I’m overwhelmed at the same time. I really hate the measuring part of carpentry.
Boy would you hate doing stringers
what is the dimension of the stringer?
great video. Lose the music and add back the commentary
And how did you mesure the supports ? How many do u need supports for that stringer...?
Can you forward, in details, dimensions for this staircase and the individual pieces.
These type of stairs are custom, not traditional. There won't be uniformed dimensions. I've built similar stairs for a tiny house.
very good video Do you know how to use hangers????
Thank you 🙏
..ola mi compa ...kiero construir una silla de masajes
Silla shiatsu .... komo ves si me pudieras mandar el video ... si vieras komo te lo voy a agradecer ... saludos ... voy a estar al pendiente de la manera mas sensacional y feliz ...
This would not pass building code where I live... Also, were those screws rated for structural work? Most lack the shear strength necessary for that...
Helios he just gave us the basic idea to build a basic stair , now you do the rest , according to code
I'm getting a lot of useful information out of the "negative" comments, but people need to chill out.
great video ... could i know the size of the crossbars (stringers)?
going up looks easy. Coming down? Not so much.
Great stairs! Just wish there was someone describing the process step by step to go with the video. The music makes me want to sleep. Not conducive to learning. No music at all would be best, imo.
I need basement stairs ASAP
Do't use that method, find a carpenter.
saves the headache of all the math
Boa tarde ,belo trabalho adorei parabéns ao profissional , poderia fazer a tradução dos materiais e medidas em português por favor ?
what kind of wood are you using here?
CONGRATULACIONES !!!! CHE!!!!
Good!!!!!!!!
How much did all the materials cost?
what is the opening access & the distance of the entire project?
Is there not a nicer way to say things? The grouchiness in these comments is astounding. I could not even imagine living with any of these people. I would rather fall with this guy's stairs.
how to build steps for a small deck
Who is the musician?
thank you so much
🇧🇷🤔💯💯💯💯💯👍👍👍
what kind of wood did you use for the stringer? and what measure has the beam?
Why not use 4 x 4's or 6 x 6's instead of all the work joining the 2 x 4 's ?
Bjishket nemenaa
None of my local timber merchants sell 4x4's.
+Al Hutchings
Doncha know more screws make it stronger? NOT!
Using one too many super expensive tools. No dice with this video!
If you don't know how to build a staircase/steps properly just go to your local Lowe's or HD. They have stringers already cut and ready to go in different sizes. Just cut and add the steps yourself. Over time the steps in this video will collapse. Atleast glue the side supports on before screwing them. Looks cool though.
real question...what ki d of stringers is that called